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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 


SYRIA AND PALESTINE; 


INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE 


‘GEOGRAPHY, HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, AND INHABITANTS 
OF THESE COUNTRIES,,. 


THE PENINSULA OF SINAI, EDOM, AND THE 
SYRIAN DESERT; 


WITH DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS OF 


JERUSALEM, PETRA, DAMASCUS, AND PALMYRA. 


MAPS AND PLANS. 


Parr I. 


, LONDON:. 
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 


PARIS: GALIGNANI; STASSIN AND XAVIER. MALTA: MUIR. 


i 


1858. 


The right of Translation ts reserved. 


b-Ste 99 1805, | 


THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE 
FOLLOWING AGENTS :— 


Germany, Holland, and Belgium. 


AIX-LA. KISSINGEN . C. JUGEL. 
GHAPELLE : sia ana i tes LEIPZIG . . F. FLEISCHER.—WEIGEL. 
TE e e = e - LUXEMBOURG BUCK 
BERGER. VAN BAK- MANNHEIM , ARTARIA & FONTAINE. 
KENESS, MAYENCE e VON ZABERN. 
ANTWERP _- MAX. KORNICKER. MUNICH . . LITERARISCH - ARTISTI- 
BADEN-BADEN D. R. MARX, SCHE ANSTALT — 
BERLIN , e A. DUNCKER, I. PALM. 
BRUSSELS » MUQUARDT, ~ KIESSLING NURNBERG . SCHRAG. 
& CO.—FROMENT. PEST e « HARTLERBEN.— 
CARLSRUHE . A. BIELEFELD. G. HECK ENAST. 
COLOGNE, | A BRE SEE ER.—EISEN PRAGUE +, ° CALVE 
oO ° . — . OTTERD ‘ I.—KRAMERS, 
DRESDEN. ° ARNOLD. STULrCARe ee Pe NEE : 
FRANKFURT . C. JUGEL. TRIESTE . . MUNSTER. 
GRATZ e »« DAMIAN & SORGE. VIENNA ,. . C.GEROLD.— 
THE HAGUE . VAN STOCKUM. BRAUMULLER.— 
HAMBURG, PERTHES, BESSER & STERNICKEL. 
HEIDELBERG. MOHR. WIESBADEN . Cc. JiiGEL’-—C.W.KREIDEL. 
Switzerland. 
BASLE . « SCHWEIGHAUSER. ~NEU- LAUSANNE . HIGNOU & CO.—WEBER. 
KIRCH. LUCERNE F, KAISER, 
BERN » « DALP, HUBER, & CO. SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER. 
COIRE « GRUBENMANN. SOLEURE . . JjENT. 
CONSTANCE . MECK, ZURICH . . H. FUSSLI & CO.—MEYER 
GENEVA. c MEAUWANN MONROE & ZELLER. POs 
G e Rar Ged T= 
: DESROGIS. — CHERBU- a a aaa 
LIEZ.—GEX,+ : 
Italy. 
BOLOGNA . M. RUSCONI. PARMA , . J. ZANGHIERI. 
FLORENCE . GOODBAN. PISA. . . NISTRI.—JOS. VANNUCCHI. 
GENOA a" ANTOINE BEUP. PERUGIA .  , VINCENZ. BARTELLI. 
LEGHORN af . ROME : LARINI.—SPITHOVER 
LUCCA e e F. BARON. ° SUA CE OUGEIONT. 
MANTUA . . NEGRETTI. SIENA . , ONORATO PORRI. 
DUMOLARD FRERES— TURIN . « GIANNINI & FIORE.— 
MOLINARI.—LAINGER.— MAGGI.—MARIETTI. — 
Sane ea oe MEL BOCCA FRERES 
MODENA . » VINCENZI & ROSSI, VENICE . « HERMAN PF. MUNSTER.— 
Mem ce viSCOnT. GIRAUD, ONE 
NICE . = VERONA . H. F. MUNSTER, — MEI- 
PALERMO, \ CHARLES BEUF, NERS. 
France. 
AMIENS - + CARON. | NANCY . . GONET. 
ANGERS . . BARASSE’, NANTES , ; GUE/RAUD.—FOREST 
BAYONNE JAY MEBON ORLEANS ey 
Meg ‘ : GATINEAU. —PESTY. 
BORDEAUX . CHAUMA PARIS) . : GALIGNANILAW 
BOULOGNE e Waret. ME RRIDEW. STASSIN ET XAVIER. 
BREST . . HEBERT i PAU. . , AUG. BASSY._LAFON. 
CAEN. .« « th Ag PERPIGNAN . JULIA FRERES. 
Cae O°! ewer SS EIMS BRISSART BINET. 
DIEPPE 2. « MARATS ROCHEFORT - BOUCARD. 
DINANT , . OUSTE. ROUE LEBRUMENT. 
DOUAI » JACQUART.—LEMALE, ST.ETIENNE . DELARUE 
DUNKERQUE | LEYSCHOCHART. ST. MALO * HUE ° 
GRENOBLE - xFELLU I ET COMP. ST 7 QUENTIN bg DOLOY 
—FOUCHER, . : GRUCKER 7 
LILLE 3. « VANACKENRE,—BE/GHIN. TOULON MONGE ET VILLAMUS. 
LYONS =» + NBER ROR BRU Mam TOULOUSE  H. LEBON.—GIMET. 
. MADAME CAMOIN, TOURS . . COUSTURIER. 
El aay . WARION, TROYES , «| LALOY. 
MONTPELLIER LEVALLE. 
° Spain. 
MADRID . . MONIER. GIBRALTAR . ROWSWELL. 
° « 
Russia. 4 oe 
ST. PETERS- } ISSAKOFF.—N. ISSAKOFF.— | MOSCOW . . W. GAUTIER. mr “ 
BURGH BELLIZARD. ODESSA , . VILLIETTY. 
Malta. Lonian Islands. Constantinople, Greece. Ney 
MUIR. .CORFU. . J. W.TAYLOR., WICK. ATHENS, A. NAST. 


\j 


TO 


THE REY. HENRY COOKE, 


D.D., LL.D., T.C.D., 


This Work is Dedicated, 
AS A SLIGHT TOKEN OF ESTEEM AND AFFECTION, 


BY 


THE AUTHOR. 


a2 


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_——~—-— ay, . ee 
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BAMVAED COLLORE LIBRARY 


SE EO, March Va 


CONTENTS. 


Part I. 


Note on the pronunciation and meaning of Arabic names and words .. vii 
Preface .. .. ry ae rr a 9! 


Preliminary Remarks er ee rr <1 | 


Section I.—THE PENINSULA OF SINAI AND EDOM. 


Introductory Information .. .. 2.) 6e ee wee wees 1 
Routes .. wk we owe ete weet e wet we 9 


SECTION II,— PALESTINE—JERUSALEM. 
Route a 


Section III].—SOUTHERN PALESTINE. . 


Preliminary Remarks ..Q .. 62 es ee oe we wee ewe 188 
_ Routes «gon eevee tee ee eee ewe we 186 


Part I. 


Section IV.—NORTHERN PALESTINE AND DAMASCUS. 
Preliminary Information a re +: | 


Routes a 
SEcTION V.—NORTHERN SYRIA. 


Preliminary Information ee ere ee ee eT | 
Routes «wwe ne wet ete tee te ee tee we 59D 


| GENERAL INDEX ne ee te we te ae eee tee we we 625 
INDEX OF UNIDENTIFIED PLACES ... oe +6 ce 08 88 oe ots 647 


LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. 


Map of Northern Palestine and Plan of Jerusalem In pockets at the be- 
» Southern Palestine and Environs of Jerusalem } - ginning and end 
Plan of the Temple at Jerusalem ene ee we ewe we Page 123 
” Tombs of the Prophets, ditto ..  .. 0 2. 6. ee we 147 
” Tomb of Helena, ditto ..  .. 2. ss ue wee 148 
» Church of the Holy Sepulchre, ditto .. .. .. .. 161 
@, Damascus .. «20 6. 0 ee ce ee ee tee to face page 46& 
» Palmyra... .. .. ee eee - -~ 
» the Temples at Ba’albek, restored (ee oe ewe we page 561 
Map of Northern Syria .. 2. 0. 0k wk tie at the end. | 
J 
y 


NOTE ON THE PRONUNCIATION AND MEANING OF ARABIC 
' NAMES AND WORDS USED IN THIS WORK. 


AN attempt has been made to represent Arabic sounds by English characters, 
in as far as the nature of the two languages will admit. The orthography of 
Dr. Smith, as given in Robinson’s ‘ Biblical Researches,’ has been followed 
except in a very few cases. I do not say that his system is by any means 
perfect ; but it is decidedly the best hitherto invented for the Arabic as spoken 
in Syria. It would be well for the interests of geographical science if scholars 
would follow one uniform rule. 

A little attention to the following remarks will enable the English reader to 
pronounce the names occurring in this Handbook with a near approach to 
accuracy. No attempt has been made in the body of the work to distinguish the 


Arabic letters (yo 2S & E;; but their representatives have a dot (. ) 
placed beneath them in the Index, to which the Oriental scholar can refer, 
thus—d, h, k, $, t 2. 


1. THe Consonants are pronounced almost universally as in English. The 
following remarks should be read with care, and kept in mind. * 
dh represents & and (y@. In the former case it is sounded like ¢h in this ; 
in the latter the sound is that of d, but pronounced by pressing the tongue 
closely against the teeth, and expanding the back part of the mouth—in 
| the Inftlex it is distinguished by the dot, dh. 
| gh is a deep guttural sound, ¢ in Arabic. It has no representative in Eng- 
lish ; but the Parisian r somewhat resembles it. 


h represents &, a soft aspirate, like h in hat; and », a deep guttural, almost 
pectoral, breathing. In the Index the latter is distinguished by h. It 
has no representative in any European language, and its sound is one of 
the most difficult for a foreigner to acquire. 

k represents S, a simple &; and <9, a guttural & (writen k in the Indez). 
In different parts of the country, however, the latter is pronounced very 
differently. In Damascus and some other towns it has the sound of a 
guttural Hamzeh, or pause, The Bedawin pronounce it as hard g; others 


sound it simple k, but they make the uS like ch in child. 
kh represents =, and is a breathing rendered rough and tremulous by the 
motion of & epiglottis. It is much deeper than the German ch. 


r has a rolling sound much stronger than is heard in England ; but there 
is some approach to it in the pronunciation of the Scotch peasantry. 


s represents (py, pronounced like s in sun ; and (ya (s in the Index), a kind 


viii Note on Arabic Names and Words, 


of guttural s, which gives to the accompanying vowel a broader and 
deeper sound. 


¢ represents «2°.5, a simple ¢; and b (tin the Index), which bears the same 
relation to ¢ that s does to s. It is sounded by pressing the tongue more 
firmly against the teeth, and extending the back part of the mouth. 


” represents & a character which has no equivalent in any European 
alphabet. It cannot be described; and many have difficulty in distin- 


guishing and learning it when they even hear it pronounced. At the 
end of a word it somewhat resembles a guttural a. 


2. VowELs.—The Arabic language has only three vowel-symbole, but it has 
perbaps a greater variety of vowel-sownds than any European language. The 
three symbols are Fathah, commonly representing short a; Keerah, short e ; 
and Dummeh, short u. These, however, are so modified by the consonants to 
which they are attached, or which immediately follow them, that Fathah 
becomes short u or e, &c. In the orthography of Arabic names and words in 
this work I have attempted to represent the sounds as pronounced by intelligent 
natives, and not the vowel-symbols as written. Scholars will please bear this in 
mind when they find Fathah represented in one place by short a, and in another 
by short u, &c. 

The vowels are to be pronounced as in German or Italian. They are all, and 
always, short except.when marked by the circumflex (*). Read with care the 
following remarks. 


a is uniformly short and open, as in hat. 

é represents Fathah prolonged by Alef, and is usually pronounced as a in 
father ; but when followed by s, dh, t, it is sounded like a in call, 

e is short like e in men. 

¢ is sounded as in pin, 

t represents Kesrah prolonged by Ye. It is sounded as ee in bee. 

o is pronounced as in for. 


6 represents Dummeh prolonged by Waw; and also occasionally Fathah 
similarly prolonged. It is sounded as o in go. 


w is short as in pun. ~ 

a represents Dummeh prolonged by Waw. It is sounded as o in move. 
au represents Fathah followed by Wav, and is pronounced as ow in how. 
et represents Fathah followed by Ye, and is pronounced like e7 in vein. 


ai represents the same combination when connected with guttural letters. 
It has the sound of ¢ in pine, 
El before a word, and joined to it by a hyphen (-), is the Arabic article : thus 
el-Medineh, “ the City.” It becomes ed- en- er- es- esh- ez-, when the words to 
which it is attached commence with corresponding (called solar) letters. 


The following words are of frequent occurrence, and may be easily re- 
membered. 


Abu, father. Balad, village. 

™ *Ain, pl. Ayan, fountain. Bard, cold. | 
Ard, plain, Bakhshish, present. 
Bab, door, gate. Barfid, gunpowder. 
Bahr, dim, Buhairah, sea. Barfideh, gun. 


Babrah, tank. Beit, pl. Buyft, house. 


Arabic Words of frequent Occurrence. ix 


Belad, district. Medineh, city. 

Bint, pl. Benat, daughter, maid. Mezra’ ah, farm, 

Bir, well. Mihr&b, prayer-niche, 

Birkeh, pl. Burak, pool. Milh, salt. 

Dar, court, house. Mukary, 1, Mukariyeh, muleteer. 
_ Deir, convent. ~ Muslem, Mohammedan. 

Derb, road, Nahr, pl. Anhur, river. 

Emir, pl. Umara, prince. Nakhlch, pl. Nukhl, palm-tree 

Faras, pl. Furs4n, horse, mare. Nar 

Hesan, horse. N eby, » prophet. 

Ibn, pl. Beni, son. Neb, fountain, 

J&mi'a, mosk. Nukb, pass 

Jazireh, island. N ugrany, p Nusfra, Christian. 
~ Jebel, pl. Jibél, mountain. ~ Rahbib, wL PRahban monk. 

Jisr, bridge. Ras, head, ads Cape. 

Jubb, pit. Sahil, plain. 

K&'a, plain. Selam, peac 

Kabr, pl. Kubar, sepulchre. Sheikh, pl. OL Shuydkh, chief, elder. 

Kady, judge. Shuk, a rent. 

Kefr, village. Sudr, breast. 

Kelb, pl. Kilab, dog. Sutah, pl. Sutah, terrace. 

Khan, caravansary. Taseh, cup. 

Khenzir, hog. Tarbash, fez, 

Khubz, bread. Tell, pl. Tulél, | dimin, Tuleil, hill. 

Khurbeh, a ruin. Thelj, snow. 

Kubbeh, a dome, a tent. fig. 

Khaimeh, pl. Khiam, a tent. Tar, mountain. 

Kurn, pl. Kurfn, a horn. Turfa, tamarisk. 

Kul’ah, castle. Um, mother. 

Kuasr, castle. ~Wady, valley, watercourse. 

Ma, vulg. moi, water, Wely, saint's tomb. 

station. Wardeh, pl. Werd, a rose. 

— Mar, lord, saint, Z’arir, hawthorn, 


Merj, pl, Murfij, meadow. 


PREFACE. 


‘ ; 
THE Bible is the best Handbook for Palestine; the present work is only | 
intended to be a companion to it. 

It has been my object in the following pages to communicate the greatest 

_ amount of useful information in the smallest possible space. . Something 
more than a mere book of roads has been aimed at. This country is the 
stage on which the most wondrous events of the world’s history were enacted. 
Every nook and corner of it is “‘ holy ground.” I have, therefore, made the 
attempt to group on the old sites the chief actors in the sacred dramas, that 
the traveller may see with his ‘‘ mind’s eye” each scene played over again. 
I think no known Scripture locality has been overlooked, and no incident of 
Scripture history, which would tend to enhance its interest, forgotten. It is 
the religio loct which-gives such a charm to the cities and villages of Palestine. 
To pass any of them by without knowing, or without remembering, their 
story, is to rob travel of half its interest, and all its profit. 

My object has not been to exhaust the historical geography of the country, 
or to give lengthened topographical descriptions, or to say all that might be 

. said about each place; but rather to sketch a distinct outline which the 
traveller may fill up from nature. Yet, on the whole, this little volume 
will perhaps be found to contain a more complete summary of the Scrip- 
tural and historical geography of Syria and Palestine than any other work 
in the language. I trust it may thus prove to the student, as well as to 
the traveller, a useful Handbook—placing before him a sound framework 
of facts, and pointing out the best sources from which to obtain fuller 
information. 

Often, whilst wandering through Palestine, I have felt the want of a full 
but portable Concordance of Scripture Geography. Many others, I know, 
have felt this also. I have, therefore, combined with the Jndex a reference 
to every passage of Scripture in which the place described occurs; and I 
have appended in a Second Index a list of those ancient towns or villages 
not yet satisfactorily identified. The reader can thus see at a glance 
whether the site of any place mentioned in Scripture is known or un- 
known ; and, if known, he can refer in a moment not only to the facts of 
its past history, but to an account of its present state. It is hoped that by 
this arrangement curiosity will be awakened, and the attention of scholars 
be directed to new fields of investigation. 

| Whatever seemed calculated to illustrate the language and literature, the 

1 .1@idents and characters, the prophecies and parables of the Bible, I have 

| or en careful to note; though often the necessity for brevity has compelled 


{ 


| 


x11 Preface. 


me to pass over with a bare allusion what might have been worked up 
into a glowing image. I have also sketched in a few words the manner 
and customs of the people, their creeds and character, their wants and capa- 
bilities ; because these are necessary to the full delineation of the country, 
and tend besides to give the picture life. And I have incidentally alluded 
to the vast resources of the soil, and the grievous wrongs ofthe inhabitants, 
in the hope that the attention of the rich and the great—the opulent mer- 
chant and philanthropic statesman—-may be drawn to a fruitful but 
neglected and oppressed country. 

Truth and utility have been my aim more than originality. I have 


drawn freely from every available source — rearranging, correcting, or 


simply transcribing as best suited my purpose. The authors to whom | 
have been most indebted are specified under each head; were I to name 
all from whom I have received a hint or culled a fact, I would require to 
extend my list over a dozen pages. A large portion of the country I have 
had an opportunity of traversing since the manuscript was prepared, and | 

have thus been able to revise the most important sections on the spot. Yet. 

TI am far from thinking that perfect accuracy has been attained ; and I fear | 
even the object aimed at has been very inadequately accomplished. I would | 
throw myself on the indulgence of those kind readers and travellers to 

whose profit I have devoted some leisure hours in the intervals of far more 

important labours. 


PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 


. General Geography of Syria 


and Palestine :—Mountains ; 
Great Central Valley ; Rivers, 
Orontes, Jordan, &c. ; Statis- 
tical Table; Authorities on 


P. 
6. The best Seasons for visiting 


age 


Syria and Palestine .. .. xlix 


7. Mode of Travel :—Requisites 


for the road, &c.; Instru- 
ments; Arms; Robbers; 


Medicines ; Invalids ee 1 


Geography and Statistics .. xiv 
8. Hints on Language, Dress, 


2. Historical Sketch :— Aram; 


Palestine; Pheenicia; the Conduct rn 3 
Jews; the Seleucids ; the 9. Passports; Custom-houses ; 
Romans; the Arabs; the Post-office; Money ... .. lvii 
Crusaders; the Tartars ; Au- 10. What to observe in Syria and 
thorities on History .. .. xxi Palestine .. .. .. .. Ix 

3. Chronological Table ..  .. xxx | 11. Skeleton Tours: —i. The 

4. Inhabitants of Syria and Pales- Grand Tour suitable for 
tine: — Manners and Cus- all; ii. Tour through North- 
toms ; their Origin ; the Mo- ern Syria; iii. Eastern ex- 
hammedans ; e Druzes; loring Tour ; iv. Pilgrim's 
Christian Sects; the Jews; OUF ..0 ww ce ee) we LK 
the Turks; Authorities on 12. Servants, Dragomen, &c. .. lxv 

Inhabitants... ..  .. - Xxxvii 

5. The Climate of Syria and Pa- 
‘lestine oe oe ee) XVI 


I sHALL commence the ‘ Handbook for Syria and Palestine’ by introducing 
the tourist to the country he intends to visit. I shall give a short sketch of 
its geography and physical features, referring to phenomena which make 
this land one of the most remarkable in the world. I shall glance rapidly 
at its civil and sacred history, recalling events unparalleled for their interest, 
and influence on the destinies of mankind, in the annals of Greece or Rome. 
I shall endeavour to explain the religious creeds, and illustrate the manners 
and customs, of the several sects and races that now inhabit the country. I 
shall also note the nature of the climate; the diseases peculiar to certain 
localities, against which travellers must carefully guard; and the proper 
seasons for visiting, with a due regard to health and comfort, the various 
districts. My remarks on these topics must of necessity be brief and very 
general; but I shall endeavour to make theme so full as to prepare the 
ordinary traveller for viewing with pleasure, safety, and profit the scenes of 
Holy Writ; while, by referring to the best authorities under the various 
heads, those who wish to enter more deeply into the geography, archzology, 
or history, will have their line of study indicated. 
| [Syria and Palestine.) b 


X1V General Geography. Introd. 


1.—GENERAL GEOGRAPHY oF SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 


The country included under the names of Syria and Palestine lies along 
the eastern shore of the Mediterranean, extending from the border of Egypt 
and the peninsula of Sinai on the south to the confines of Asia Minor on the 
north ; and having on its eastern ‘side the great, and now desert, plain 
of Arabia. It reaches from 31° to 36° 30’ N. lat.; its extreme length 
being thus about 360 geographical miles, while its breadth ranges from 60 
to 100. Its entire area may be estimated at about 28,000 square miles. 

The surface formation of the country is extremely simple. A mountain 
chain, a branch from the Taurus range, stretches along the coast from north 
to south. It is first broken by the great valley of the Orontes, on whose 
picturesque banks stand the crumbling towers of Antioch. The scenery of 
this northern section is bold and grand. Lofty wooded peaks shut in the 
spacious bay of Iskanderfin, leaving along their base only the narrow plain 
of Issus, on which the fate of the Persian empire was sealed, and Western 
Asia gained to Alexander the Great. On the south bank of the Orontes the 
graceful cone of Casius rises to a height of full 5000 ft., clothed with verdant 
forests to its very summit. From hence southward runs the Nusairiyeh 
range (anciently Mons Bargylus), until it terminates at a wide break, called 
in Scripture the “‘ Entering in of Hamath” from the “ Great Sea.” A plain 
of considerable breadth lies between this section and the Mediteranean ; and 
upon it once stood the cities of Laodicea, Tortosa, and Aradus. The last 
occupied a little island, and was an early settlement of the Phoenicians. 
Immediately to the south of the “Entering in of Hamath” LEBanon 
towers up in stern grandeur more than 10,000 feet over the sea that laves 
its base and receives its thousand streams. On the side of its loftiest peak, 
far removed from other trees, stand, in stately solitude, the last and only 
group of the Cedars; seeming as if they would disdain to mingle with the 
degenerate forests of a later age. Not far distant, at the foot of a majestic 
cliff, is the fountain of the classic river Adonis, whose waters rush madly 
to the sea through a ravine which for wild grandeur and picturesque 
beauty is scarcely surpassed in the world. Beneath the shadow of Lebanon 
still stand the remnants of the ancient cities of Phoenicia, famed for their 
wealth and their commerce in a remote age—Tyre and Sidon, Gebal and 
Berytus are here, fallen from their former glory, yet little changed in name. 

The range of Lebanon is intersected by the gorge of the Leontes, which 
drains the great plain of Coelesyria, and falls into the Mediterranean a little 
north of Tyre. To the south of this river the ridge increases in breadth, 
but decreases in altitude, until it terminates in the wooded cone of Tabor, 
and the rocky hills that encircle Nazareth. Here the plain of Esdraelon, 
through which the Kishon flows, separates Lebanon from its natural con- 
tinuation, the range of Carmel, and the mountains of Samaria. To these 
succeeds the “hill country of Judza,” stretching in a wide ridge to the 

desert of Tih, which forms the southern boundary of the ‘‘ Land of Promise.” 
This southern section of the mountain chain is wider, lower, and less rezular 
than any of the others. Its general elevation at Ebal and Gerizim, Olivet | 
and Hebron, ranges only from 2400 to 2700 ft. With the exception of tise 

projecting promontory of Carmel, it is also farther removed from the i 


? 


Introd. General Geography. xv 


leaving at its base a broad fertile plain, more than 150 miles in length, 
embracing the “ beautiful Sharon” on the, north, and the whole land of 
Philistia on the south. Great cities once stood upon it, and a teeming 
population once gathered its luxuriant harvests; but now ‘‘ Sharon is like a 
wilderness,” and the cities of Philistia are fallen—Gaza is ‘‘ forsaken ;” 
Ascalon “a desolation ;” Ashdod is “driven out;” and Ekron “ rooted up.” 

In the southern part of the ‘‘ Land of Hamath,” some 20 miles K. of 
Lebanon, another mountain chain commences, and runs in a south-western 
direction, parallel to the former. It is called Anti-Lebanon. Its general 
elevation is not equal to that of Lebanon ; but near its southern extremity 
the noble cone of Hermon shoots up and rivals the loftiest peaks in Syria. 
As viewed from the W., this range seems to continue its course southward ; 
but this appearance is owing to the depression of the Jordan valley, and the 
high level of the plateau of Bashan. vn reality the chain terminates about 
25 miles S. of Hermon and 8 N. of the Sea of Tiberias. The lofty bank 
on the eastern side of that sea is merely the declivity of the plateau. A 
little farther to the S., at the river Jarmuk, commence the mountains of 
Gtlead, which extend along the E. bank of the Jordan in a broad irregular 
chain till they meet those of Moab and Edom on the E. of the Dead Sea. 
It was among the southern heights of this chain the Israelites wound 
their weary way from the desert of Sinai to the ‘ Land of Canaan ;”’ it 
was from Nebo, one of its peaks, Moses obtained his last view of that 
country he was not permitted to enter; it was the rich pastures and 
abundant waters of the central and northern sections of the range which 
attracted the attention of the tribes of Reuben and Gad, and, being con- 
quered, formed the earliest possessions of ‘‘God’s people ;”’ and it was in 
the plain to the N.E. that the hosts of the Amorites were overthrown at 
Edrei, where Og, the last of Bashan’s giant kings, was slain. 

From Hermon as a centre, a series of mountain ranges branch out like an 
opening fan from the N.K. to the E. The loftiest of these is Anti-Lebanon 
proper; the others incline more to the eastward, until the lowest and last, 
sweeping along the great Arabian plain, passes Damascus, the oldest city in 
the world, and for situation one of the most beautiful ; and then, after a 
long dreary course, also passes Palmyra, with a situation similar to that 
of Damascus, but without an “ Abana and Pharpar” to convert a parched 
desert into a Paradise. 

Only one other group of hills is here deserving of notice. It is away far 
to the E. of the Sea of Galilee, on the uttermost border of the plateau of 
Bashan. The scenery of this group is picturesque and wild; its oak forests 
equal those of Gilead ; and the ruins of cities that once crowded its slopes 
are among the proudest in the land. It is now called by strangers ‘‘ Jebel 
Hauran ;” but its real name, ‘“‘ Bathanyeh,” recalls the ancient Bashan. It 
is the Alsadamus Mons of Ptolemy. 

But by far the most remarkable feature in the physical geography of Syria 
and Palestine is the valley that intersects the country from N. to 8. 
Beginning at Antioch, it runs southward, through the centre of the ancient 
kingdom of the Seleucide, some of whose greatest cities, as Antioch, 
Apamea, Hamath, and Emesga, stood in it. From Emesa it extends across 
the plain till it meets the valley of Colesyria near Riblah, once the 
favourite camping-ground of the Assyrian and Egyptian monarchs, and 
celebrated in Jewish history as the place where Zedekiah, ie last king, 


xvi General Geography. Introd. 


after witnessing the murder of his children, had his eyes put out by the 
barbarous Nebuchadnezzar. Thus far the valley forms the bed of the river 
Orontes, which flows northward from its fountain at the base of Lebanon, 
and thence receives from the Arabs its name, El-Makiib, ‘“‘ The Inverted.” 
(See description of the Orontes below.) 

The valley of Coelesyria lies between the parallel ridges of Lebanon and 
Anti-Lebanon. It is about 70 miles long, and its average breadth is nearly 
7. About half-way along the valley, on the eastern side, stand the 
ruins of Ba’albek, famed throughout the world for the Cyclopean proportions 
of their foundations, the beauty of their sculptured architraves and cornices, 
and the symmetry of their columns. 23 miles farther down the valley, 
near the base of Anti-Lebanon, lie the prostrate ruins of Chalcis, once a 
royal city, now a desolate heap. The elevation of Coelesyria above the sea 
is about 2300 ft. At its southern end it divides into two branches—one, 
turning westward, cuts through the range of Lebanon, becoming a gorge so 
narrow that the foaming waters of the Leontes can scarcely force their way 
onward, and in one spot the cliffs meet above the struggling river, forming 
a noble archway; the other strikes off southward, and is the natural 
continuation of Ccelesyria. The latter branch descends rapidly for 15 
miles to the upper fountain of the Jordan, at the western base of Hermon, 
near the village of Hasbeiya. A few miles farther S. it joins the plain of 
Samachonitis (now el-Hileh), which, strange to say, is on a level with the 
sea. From hence it contingies descending rapidly to the lake of Tiberias, 
which has a depression of 653 ft. The chasm of the Jordan forms the con- 
tinuation of the great valley to the Dead Sea, the surface of whose waters 
is 1312 ft. below that of the Mediterranean. Here then is a valley nearly 
300 miles in length, for more than 140 of which it is below the level of the 
sea, and is thus like a fissure in the crust of the earth. It is this singular 
feature which renders the physical geography of Syria so deeply interesting. 
It is not a little strange, however, that while so many scientific expeditions 
have been sent out by England to the ends of the earth, not one has yet 
gone forth to explore the geography or the geology of Palestine. Individual 
enterprise has done much to elucidate the geography; but the geological 
wonders are as yet almost wholly unexplored. This seems unaccountable ; 
for surely the geologist would find a rich and rare field for research in the 
bright and variegated granites of the Sinai peninsula, with their veins of 
ore, successfully wrought by the Egyptians thousands of years ago; in the 
myriads of fossil organic remains in the calcareous and sandstone formations 
of Hermon and Lebanon; in the remarkable trap-fields of the plain of 
Bashan ; and above all in the deep volcanic chasm extending from the 
lake of Tiberias to the Dead Sea, with its warm springs, salt mountains, and 
bitumen pits. This is not the place either for detailing the little that 
is known of the geology of Syria, or for adding anything new to our meagre 
stock of information ; but it is the place for calling the attention of geologists 
to an interesting country, and for inviting scientific men to undertake a 
; thorough examination of it. America has set us a noble example, both of 
' public spirit and individual enterprise. A government expedition, even 
with all its defects, and the acknowledged incapacity of its chief, has 
thoroughly explored the Jordan, and surveyed the Dead Sea; while Dr. 
Robinson, one of the greatest of her scholars, has spent almost a lifetime in 
the elucidation of the historical geography of Palestine. Has England less 


a ne n — 


Introd. General Geography. Xvil 


interest in this land than her transatlantic sister? Are her sons less learned,’ 
or less enthusiastic in the advancement of science, than their brethren in the 

“far west”? Will not the hope of advantageously investing capital in the 

construction of railways, or in commercial enterprise, or in the cultivation : 
of cotton, call the attention of England’s merchant princes to a survey of | 
fhis country, and a full examination of its resources? Syria has still, in its | 
soil and in its people, the elements of greatness aud prosperity waiting to 

be developed. 


Rivers.—Of the rivers of Syria the most important, whether we consider 
its physical peculiarities, or its sacred and historic interest, is the JoRDAN. 
The fact of its running, throughout its whole course, beneath the level of 
the sea, renders it a natural wonder; and the fact of its having been the 
baptismal font of the Son of God Incarnate, for ever enshrines it in the heart 
and memory of universal Christendom. Its highest source, or rather the 
source of its principal tributary, is in Wady et-Teim, near the village of 
Hasbeiya, at the western base of Hermon ; but the true historic sources of 
the river are at Tell el-Kady (the ancient Dan), in the plain of Hileh ; and 
at Banias (the ancient Cesarea-Philippt), on the southern slope of Hermon. 
Both of these will be described in their proper places. The three streams 
unite, and fall into the lake Hfleh (the Samachonitis of Josephus, and 
‘* Waters of Merom” of the Bible), about 10 miles below Tell el-Kady. 
Issuing from this little lake, the river rushes on through a narrow volcanic 
valley to the Sea of Galilee, now called Bahr Tubariyeh ; whose dimensions, 
as given by Lynch, are 12 miles long by 6 broad. On leaving this lake, of 
which a full account will be found in its proper place, it runs in a very 
tortuous course, now sweeping along alluvial banks, and now tumbling over 
piles of rugged rocks in sheets of foam. The channel a short distance below 
the lake is 90 ft. wide. At the distance of about 4 miles it receives its 
largest tributary, the Sheri’at el-Mandhfir (the Hieromax of the Greeks, and 
Jarmuk of the Hebrews), which has its sources in Jebel Hauran, and drains 
nearly the whole of Bashan. At the place where it joins the Jordan it 
is 130 ft. wide; and is nearly equal in volume to the river into which it 
flows. The Jordan, during the greater part of its course, from the Sea of 
Galilee to the Dead Sea, has two distinct lines of banks: the first confine 
the river itself, and are not more than from 8 to 15 ft. high ;. the second are 
at some considerable distance from the channel, and are in places 60 ft. and 
upwards in height. The terraces above the latter form the true level of the 
Jordan valley. Towards the southern extremity even three sets of banks 
may be distinguished—the upper ones forming the first descent from the 
valley ; the middle ones enclosing a tract of canes and other shrubs and 
herbage ; and the last confining the waters. | 

The scenery is peculiar and striking. The deep depression gives to the 
whole chasm the sultry heat of tropical climes; and the rich soil, where 
moist or irrigated, yields their rank vegetation and special productions. 
Juynch thus describes the upper section :—‘‘ The high alluvial terraces on 
each side were everywhere shaped by the action of the winter rains into 
numbers of conical hills, some of them pyramidal and cuneiform, presenting 
the appearance of a giant encampment, so perfectly tent-like were their 
shapes. This singular configuration extended southward as far as the eye 
could reach. At intervals I caught a glimpse of the river in its graceful 


xviii General Geography. Inirod. 


meanderings, sometimes glittering like a spear-head through an opening in 
the foliage, and again clasping some little island in its shining arms, or, far 
away, snapping with the fierceness and white foam of a torrent by some 
projecting point. . . . The banks were fringed with the laurustinus, the 
oleander, the willow, and the tamarisk ; and farther inland, on the slope of 
the second terrace, grew a small species of oak, and the cedar(?). The 
arbutus was mingled with the flowers of the plain. From the banks to the 
elevated ridges on either side, the grass and the flowers presented a surface 
of luxuriance and beauty.” It must be remembered, however, that this isa 
spring description. In autumn everything is different. Hxcept where a 
fountain gushes up, or a streamlet flows, the whole plain is a parched desert. 
In some places the breadth of the river is as much as 80 yards, and the 
depth two; but the average breadth may be estimated at about 50 yards, 
and the depth from four to seven feet. The banks are generally either con- 
glomerate or alluvial; the latter give a milky hue to the water. 

At about the middle of its course between the two lakes the Jordan 
receives the waters of the Zurka (the Jabbok of the Bible), It was, when 
Lynch passed, ‘‘a small stream, trickling down a wide torrent-bed. ‘The 
water was sweet, but the stones upon the bare exposed bank were coated 
with salt. There was another bed, quite dry, showing that in times of 
Freshets there were two outlets to this tributary.” The Jabbok was the 
boundary between the ancient kingdoms of Sihon and Og; and also formed 
the northern border of the Ammonites. Previous to the expedition of 
Lieut. Lynch it had been conjectured that there must be some error in the 
calculation of the relative levels of the Dead Sea and the lake of Tiberias. 
The distance between the two is only 60 miles; and it was thought im- 
possible that the Jordan could fall so much as was represented in that space. 
But it is now seen that in, 60 miles of direct distance the course of the 
river cannot be less than 200 miles, owing to its tortuous channel. The 
total fall is 660 ft. The whole length of the Jordan, from the fountain at 
Dan to the place where it enters the Dead Sea, is 92 miles as the crow 

ies. 

The Oronres ranks next in importance to the Jordan. Its modern name 
is el-’ Asy (“‘The Rebellious”); and it-is also called el-Maklub (“The In- 
verted ”), from the fact of its running, as is thought, in a wrong direction. 
Its highest source is in the plain of Byka’a, at the base of Anti-Lebanon, 
beside the ruins of the ancient city of Lybon. From thence it runs ina 
northerly direction, diagonally across the plain to the great fountain at the 
base of the opposite mountain range, near the rock-hewn convent of Mar 
Marén. Hence it flows northward, passing Hums, Hamath, and Apamea; 
at Antioch it sweeps round to the W.,-and falls into the Mediterranean near 
Seleucia. Its scenery is in general tame and uninteresting; but as it 
approaches the sea the mountains rise up on each side in stern grandeur, 
and the foaming torrent rushes over its rocky bed between lofty walls of 
rock. Where this river passes the ancient cities of Emesa (Hums) and 
Hamath, it is smaller than the Jordan ; but it receives numerous tributaries 
from the mountain region round Antioch, which increase its volume several 
fold. Its length, from the fountain to the bend at the lake near Antioch, is 
about 125 miles ; and from thence to the sea 24 miles. 

The Lirany is the next in magnitude. There is some doubt about its 
ancient name. It is generally called the ‘‘ Leontes,’’ but this appears to be 


Introd. General Geography. xix 


an error, at least if Ptolemy be correct, for he places the river ‘‘ Leon” (of 
which “ Leontes”’ is the genitive) between Sidon and Beyrout. But an old 
Arab author, quoted by Reland, mentions a river ‘“‘ Lanteh ” as falling into 
the sea between Tyre and Sarepta. This is undoubtedly the Litany (or as 
it is now called in-the lower part ‘“‘ Kasimtyeh”); but whether we identify 
this with the Leontes or not will depend on our estimate of the accuracy of 
Ptolemy. The Litany rises near Ba‘albek, flows in an easy current down 
the Buk@a’a, receiving several tributaries from the mountain ranges on each 
side ; one of the largest of which comes from two great fountains, ’Ain esh- 
Shems and ’Ain ’Anjar, near the ruins of Chalcis. After leaving the plain 
it enters a sublime gorge intersecting the whole ridge of Lebanon, and foams 
like a maniac between rugged cliffs, till, at last, it finds rest in the Mediter- 
ranean. Its total length is about 55 miles. 

Next in order comes the BaRADA,—the “ golden-flowing ” stream of the 
Greeks (Chrysorrhoes); and the ‘“ sweet-sounding” ABana, or Amana, of 
the Bible. If not one of the largest, this is unquestionably one of the most 
useful rivers of Syria.. It derives its whole supply of water from two great 
fountains in the very centre of Anti-Lebanon—’Ain Barada and ’Ain Fijeh. 
Tt cuts through several of the parallel ridges of this chain, struggling with 
rock and cliff down a winding ravine of singular grandeur and wildness, till 
after a course, ‘as the crow flies,” of 15 miles, it bursts from its mountain 
barrier into the plain of Damascus. The industry of man has here turned its 
abundant waters into countless channels, which, as an Arabian poet says, 
“ carry gold in their bosom, and scatter emeralds over the plain.” The Barada 
has created this, the fairest and the loveliest of Mohammed’s paradises. On its 
banks, between its fountain and the Ghitah (as the western section of the 
plain of Damascus is called), there’ are 14 villages, with a population of 
some 3000 souls. In the Ghfitah itself are upwards of 90 villages, with 
a population of 40,000. In Damascus are 150,000 souls. So that the whole 
district rendered habitable by the waters of the ancient Abana contains 
nearly 200,000 persons. Well might the proud Naaman exclaim, before 
the Prophet of Israel,—‘‘ Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, 
better than all the waters of Israel?” (2 Kings v. 12.) 


THE PouiticaL GroGRaPHy or SyBIA AND PALESTINE has changed with 
every new dynasty or race which has in succession conquered or possessed 
the country; an account of it will, therefore, be best united with the 
‘* Historical Sketch.” At present, under Turkish rule, it is divided into 
three Pashalics—Damascus, Aleppo, and Sidon. The Pashalic of Damascus 
includes the whole country lying E. of the Jordan, the Buka’a, and the 
Orontes as far N. as Ham&h. The commander-in-chief of the forces in 
Syria resides in Damascus. The Pashalic of Sidon embraces all Palestine 
west of the Jordan, all Lebanon, and the coast to Tripoli. The Pasha resides 
at Beyrout, which is now the chief town, and by far the most flourishing 
and important in the province. The Pasha of Jerusalem is subject to him 
of Sidon. The Pashalic of Aleppo includes all northern Syria, with a section 
of Asia Minor extending to ’Aintaband Marash. The following table gives a 
comprehensive view of the statistics of these pashalics, so far as they are 
known. It must be remembered, however, that the Turks are far behind in 
their statistical surveys. The numbers of the inhabitants are increased or 
diminished ad libitum whenever the smallest interest is in any way con- 


xx General Geography. Introd. 


cerned ; and perhaps this is the only country in the world where people will 
lie systematically even without an object. , 


STATISTICAL TABLE. 


PasHaLic or Damascus. Tora. 
MUSLEMS . 2. 0 0 0 6 oo «(412,000 1,296,000 
CHRISTIANS :— 

Maronites «2... 9,100 ° 
Greeks. « « + 6 © 42,200 
Catholics. . « « » 21,600 
Armenian’. ++. 2,700 ee 
Minor Sects ... 3,500 
79,100 441,100 
JEWS. eee ee ee we ee | 5,300 24,380 
DRUZES. ses eee eee 18,000 78,000 
MerAwitee. . . 6 «2 oo © «| 18,900 25 ,900 
NUSAIRIYEH . . oo eo 0 oo «| 14,500 55,500 
TOTAL . « « « © » |547,800 1,920,800. 


Syria has been oppressed for centuries by foreign tyrants who have no 
interest in either the soil or the people, save that of grasping with greedy 
hands the whole available wealth of the country. ‘the Turks have only 
been able to rule by the cruel policy of pitting against each other the various 
rival sects and parties. The results are patent to all—poverty, hatred, bigotry, 
and bloodshed. Another line of policy followed by the Turks has also been 
productive of numerous aets of cruelty. Local chiefs receive appointments 
(by bribery, of course) as governors of districts; and are then left to fight 
their. own way to possession! A man, for example, was nominated by 
Mohammed Pasha of Damascus to the government of the southern division 
of Lebanon. A more powerful rival met him on his way to take charge of 
his territory, routed his guards, and cut off his head! Having thus accum- 
plished his purpose, he wrote to inform the Pasha of what had occurred. 
‘* It is of no consequence,” was the reply; ‘“‘send me a hundred purses, and 
name what governor you please.” And a still more fearful tragedy occurred 
only a few months ago. A Kurdish chief was appointed by the present 
Pasha of Beyrout to the governorship of Tiberias, with command of 300 
horse. No sooner had he taken possession of his post than he was ardered to 
decamp by a powerful Arab sheikh of the neighbourhood, who had formerly 
held the same office. The Kurd refused, and Akeil Aga, the sheikh, suddenly 
eollected his forces, fell upon him by surprise, massacred eighty-nine of his 
troops, wounded many more, and carried off immense booty in horses and 


Introd. Historical Sketch. XXi 


camp equipage. All this occurred under the very eye of the government, for a 
large force of regular soldiers, including infantry, cavalry, and artillery, was 
encamped only a day’s march from the scene of action, and yet nothing was 
done! The Turks probably find that both Kurds and Arabs are growing too 
strong, and they adopt this plan of weakening both parties. 

A few places along the coast have latterly begun to show signs of new life, 
owing chiefly to the enterprise of Kuropean merchants, and the protection 
afforded to property and capital by the influence of European consuls. 
Beyrout is an example of what Syria might become under a liberal and 
paternal government. The eastern border affords a marked contrast to the 
western. Hundreds of towns and villages are there deserted, though not 
ruined, and every year adds to their number; while tens of thousands of 
acres of the richest soil are abandoned to the periodical “raids” of the wild 
hordes of the desert. 


Authorities on the Geography and Statistics.—Any one who wishes to know 
everything, ‘‘ good, bad, and indifferent,” that has ever been written or said 
on Syriaand Palestine, may consult Ritter’s ‘ Erdkunde.’ There the learned 
author has collected in five thick tomes the results of all the geographical 
treatises, books of travel, scientific expeditions, and statistical reports, of 
every language, age, and nation. The patient industry and vast research 
exhibited in the work are thoroughly German; but unfortunately, not 
having seen with his own eyes what he describes, he is not always able to 
discriminate between those who observe accurately and note on the spot, and 
those who write from memory and fill up awkward blanks by the aid of the 
imagination. 

teland’s ‘ Palestina’ is still the standard work on the ancient geogra- 
phy of Palestine. It is a mine from which all may dig freely who wish to 
illustrate their works with historic facts ; and it forms an admirable hand- 
book for the explorer. 

Robinson’s ‘ Biblical Researches, 2nd ed., with the volume of ‘ Ad- 
ditional Researches,’ is far the best on the geography of Palestine. His 
learning, industry, and research at least equal Ritter’s; but he possesses this 
great advantage, that he only describes and illustrates what he saw. His 
book has only one defect; the field examined is too limited. Had circum- 
stances permitted him to visit the whole country, its historical topography 
might have been considered as well-nigh exhausted. 

Stanley’s ‘ Sinai and Palestine’ is brief but graphic. Its accomplished 
author possesses the rare faculty of admirably grouping the leading events of 
history on his descriptions of scenery, so as to form glowing and instructive 

ictures. , 
P For the country east of the Jordan, Burekhardt is still the most satis- 
factory author. For the historical geography of the Hauran, Damascus, 
Lebanon, and Palmyra, I may be permitted to refer tomy ‘ Five Years wn 
Damascus.’ 


2.—HisToricaL SKETCH. a 


If Syria and Palestine are unique in their physical aspect, so are they also 
in their history. As the depression of the great valley that intersects the 
country is without a parallel in the world’s geography, so the vents that 


Xxii Historical Sketch. Introd. 


transpired in this land are without a parallel in the world’s history. Both 
historically and physically, therefore, it is the most interesting country 
on earth. Twice have mankind been indebted to it for a pure faith,— 
First : When the Law was given at Sinai; and when prophets were com- 
missioned by Heaven to enforce its mandates and explain its mysterious 
rites. Then that law, holy, perfect, sublime, stood out in noble contrast to 
the monstrous absurdities of Egyptian and Assyrian idolatry. Second: 
When the Gospel was given in Palestine; and when apostles were in- 
structed by God’s Son in its life-giving doctrines. Then, too, that Gospel, 
pure, spiritual, practical, stood out in no less noble contrast to the refined 
voluptuousness and vain abstractions of Greek and Roman mythology. The 
religion which has civilized Europe, and blessed the world, emanated from 
this land. The light which kindled the lamp of true philosophy, and the 
torches of science and practical art, first shone on the hills of Palestine. 
Every prophet who brought a message from Heaven to earth, and every 
apostle who expounded and propagated Gospel truth, was a native of this 
land. The Saviour Himself was born in Bethlehem, was brought up in 
Nazareth, dwelt in Capernaum, was baptized in the Jordan, raised Lazarus 
from the dead at Bethany, was crucified at Jerusalem, and ascended to 
Heaven from the Mount of Olives! 

And not in things sacred merely is the history of this land unique. Along 
its shores dwelt a nation who were the first mariners on earth. The Pha- 
nicians sent their ships acrogs the ‘‘ Great Sea” to Tarshish, before Rome 
was founded, or Greece had a history. What England is now, Phoenicia 
was three thousand years ago—‘ the Queen of the Seas.” Homer wrote of 
the matchless productions of the artificers of Sidon ; and Ezekiel celebrates 
the gems, the robes, the agates, and the corals of Tyre. Cadmus too, the 
ancients tell us, was a Pheenician from Tyre or Sidon; and the romantic 
embellishments of his strange story would seem to contain the historic fact 
that he first introduced letters, science, and civilization into Greece. And 
if we journey across the mountains from the Pheenician coast, we find 
another place, on the borders of the Great Desert, whose history is also in 
One respect without a parallel. Damascus is one of the oldest cities on 
record; and it is a city still. It is a connecting link between the patri- 
archal age and modern times. Founded by a grandson of Noah, it has 
existed and flourished for full four thousand years. It has outlived gene- 
rations of cities, and it yet possesses all the vigour and freshness of youth. 

The earliest notices of Syrian history are found in the Bible, which is at 
once the most ancient and the most authentic of all histories. The whole 
land appears to have been divided, by the nature of its first settlement, into 
_ two sections. The first, extending from the plain of Bashan to the heights of 
Amanus, was colonized by the family of Aram, the son of Shem, and called 
by his name ARAM. But as the possessions of this tribe included also the 
plains of Assyria on the E., the western division was named Aram-Damesk, 
“ Aram of Damascus.” (2 Sam. viii. 6.) In every passage of the Old 
Testament scriptures, where the word “Syria” appears, the Hebrew is 
“ Aram.” (See Jud. x.6; 1 Kings x. 29; xi. 25, &c.) Damascus was the 
first capital of the province. Subsequently the province was subdivided ; 
and thus in the days of David we find “ Aram-Maachah ”—a district around 
the fountains of the Jordan, at the base of Hermon (1 Chron. xix. 6; 2 
Sam, x. 6-8); ‘“ Aram-Zobah ”—a district most probably extending from 


Introd. Historical Sketch. . XxXili 


the right bank of the Orontes towards Aleppo and the Euphrates. (2 Sam; 
x. 6; viii. 3-5.) Both these, however, were included in ‘* Aram-Damesk,’ 
so that, as Isaiah says, the “Head of Aram is Damascus.” Gi 8.) To 
this corresponds also the Syria Damascena of Pliny and the Roman geo- 
graphers. Aram-Damesk formed for a long period a separate kingdom, which 
under the royal line of Hadad often waged successful wars against the 
Israelites. (2 Chron. xxiv.) It was finally overthrown by the Assyrians 
under Tiglath-pileser, in B.c. 750. (2 Kings xvi. 9.) The name “ Syria” 
is probably derived from ‘‘Tsur” or “Sur” (Tyre). The Greeks first 
became acquainted with that ancient city, and then applied its name some- 
what indefinitely to the country. — 

The second division of the country, including Gilead, all Palestine W. of 
the Jordan, and the mountain range northward to the mouth of the Orontes, 
was colonized by the descendants of Canaan, the son of Ham. They never 
appear to have been united under one chief, or to have acknowledved the 
pre-eminence of one royal city ; but were divided ipto a number of tribes or 
clans, not unlike those of the Scottish Highlands. On the S. were the 
Anakims, ‘a people great and tall” (Deut. ii. 10) ; and probably related to 
these were the Emims and other gigantic races on the KE. of the Jordan. 
(Id.) The Amorites, who came in, or rose to power, at a later period, con- 
quered and finally exterminated these giants. Besides these there was a 
host of petty tribes scattered over the land, from the Jebusites on the S8.,,to 
the Hamathites and Arvadites on the N. The Philistines, also descendants 
of Ham, emigrated from Egypt at a later period, and settled in the plain 
along the coast, on the 8.W. frontier. They were enterprising and warlike, 
equally feared and hated by the Israelites. They obtained a firm hold ofa 
section of the country, and gave to it a name which it retains to our day— 
PALESTINE. 

Of all the aboriginal inhabitants of this country the Paa@wnicrans—or 
Canaanites, as they are called both in the Bible (Jud. i. 31, 32) and on 
their own coins—were the most remarkable alike for their independence, 
their power, and their enterprise. The principal part, if not the whole, of 
this people were descended from Sidon, the oldest son of Ham; and the city’ 
of Sidon was the first centre and seat of their power. From it colonies went 
out to Tyre and Arvad; both small islands, and thus well adapted for com- 
merce. The whole coast, fromtn Casius to Carmel, soon became subject to 
them ; and from hence they extended their influence and commerce along 
the shores of the Mediterranean, and through the islands that dot its sur- 
face. Carthage, the rival of Rome, was a Phenician colony; and so also 
was Cadiz, on the shores of the Atlantic. They had commercial intercourse 
with every kingdom of the known world. From every country they im- 
ported its peculiar products to be manufactured, or bartered, in their rich 
marts, ‘They visited Persia and India, Africa and Russia, Italy and Spain ; 
and a few hardy adventurers even penetrated to that little isle of clouds 
and terrors—the far distant Britain. The Phcenicians and Damascenes 
long held between them the whole northern part of Syria.’ Phoenicia attained . 
its greatest power about B.c. 1050 ; and it enjoyed uninterrupted prosperity ° 
for fall 500 years. It was at last forced to submit to the sceptre of Alexander 
the Great. 

In the 15th century before the Christian era another tribe or nation‘ 
appeared upon the stage of Syrian history, and totally changed the state of 


xxiv Historical Sketch, " ‘Introd. 


affairs in Palestine. The Israelites, having completed their weary term of 
wandering through the wilderness of Sinai, suddenly descended from the 
mountains of Moab to the banks of the Jordan, more than half a million 
strong. The fame of their exploits and miraculous deliverances had long 
preceded them ; and the Canaanites, though inured to war, trembled at the 
thought of this heaven-led foe. The Israelites themselves came on in con- 
fidence, feeling that God would assuredly give them the “ Promised Land.” 
Gilead and Bashan on the E. were first taken; then the waters of the 
Jordan were miraculously opened for them, and they entered Palestine. <A 
war of extermination was waged, and the people were soon settled in their 
‘new possessions. The “Land of Promise ” extended from the Arabian plain 
to the “Great Sea,” and from the Desert of Sinai to the “ entering in of 
Hamath” (Num. xxxiv.; Ez. xlvii.); but “the Land of Possession” was 
more limited—it was commonly and correctly described as reaching “‘ from 
Dan. to: Beersheba.” (Jud. xx. 1.) Beth the Philistines and Phenicians re- 
mained in possession of the maritime regions. 

From the time the Israelites entered Palestine till the appointment of 
Saul, their first king, their government was a pure Theocracy. God was 
their leader in all their war of conquest, when the guilty Canaanites were 
exterminated or expelled. In peace, the Judges were God’s representatives ; 
in war, they were His lieutenants. Their appointment was generally com- 
Hyinicated to them by an express mnessage from heaven; their great vic- 
tories were gained by miraculous or superhuman interposition ; their 
councils were directed by visions and revelations from on high. Their 
enemies felt and acknowledged this; and were often compelled to admit 
that the God of Israel was greater than all the gods. I would only allude 
for illustration and proof to the histories of Samson, of Gideon, of Deborah, 
and of Samuel. (Jud. xvi., vii., iv. & v.; 1 Sam. vii.) 

But the Israelites demanded a king, and ia the year B.c. 1095 Saul, a 
Benjamite of Gibeah, was elected. After his melancholy death on Gilkoa, 
David, “the man after God’s own heart,” was called to the throne. When 
he had reigned seven years in Hebron he captured the stronghold of the 
Jebusites on Mount Sion, and thenceforth Jerusalem became the seat of 
government and the capital of Palestine (B.c. 1045). His kingdom being 
firmly established, he turned his attention to foreign conquests. The 
Philistines, the hereditary enemies and oppressors of his people, were com- 
pletely subdued. The warlike tribes that dwelt amid the mountains of 
Sinai and Edom, and that roamed over the plateaus of Gilead and Bashan, 
were made tributary. His garrisons occupied the ehief towns of Syria ; and 
every prince, from the borders of Egypt to the banks of the Euphrates, was 
forced to acknowledge his rule. The Pheenicians' were the only exception. 
They excelled in the arts of peace. Their merchants and mariners brought 
the riches of the east and west to their marts, and carried their manufactures 
to foreign lands. David was wise as he was powerful. He could gain little 
by conquering their maritime territory ; but by entering into friendly treaties 
he could secure the most important advantages to his own nation. He 
therefore made a treaty with Hiram King of Tyre; and Hiram’s workmen 
built his palace on Zion. (2 Sam. v.) Phcenician architects, carpenters, 
and goldsmiths afterwards erected and adorned the Temple of Solomon. 
(1 Kings, v., vii.) Tyrian seamen navigated the fleets of Israel to Spain, 
Africa, and India. (Id. ix. 27; x. 11.) ‘The power and influence which 


Introd. Historical Sketch. xxv 


David had acquired by his arms, Solomon employed for the acquisition of 
wealth and the advancement of commerce. He built fleets at Ezion-geber 
on the Red Sea, to establish a communication with the eastern eoast of 
Africa and the southern shores of India (id. ix. 26); and he founded 
** Tadmor in the wilderness” to facilitate the overland traffic with Assyria 
and Persia. (2 Chron. viii. 4.) 

The building of the Temple at Jerusalem made that city the religious as 
well as the civil capital of the whole land; but unfortunately the vices 
of royalty soon divided the kingdom. Rehoboam, the son of Solomon, 
retained only two tribes under his sceptre ; while the remaining ten elected 
Jeroboam, an Ephraimite, as their ruler. To wean the people’s affection 
from Jerusalem, and to prevent the probability of reunion on religious 
grounds, the latter set up two “calves,” one at Dan, the other at Bethel, as 
symbols of Jehovah, to which his subjects might resort for worship (1 Kings 
xii, 28, 29). These symbols were borrowed, as that in the wilderness had 
been, from the mythology of Egypt ; and, in accordance with a custom of 
the same country, he united the pontificate of the new establishment with 
the crown ; thus at once assuming both royal and priestly power (id. 31-33, 
and xiii. 1). Jeroboam fixed upon Shechem (now Nabulus) as the seat of 
his government. After the murder of his son, Baasha the third king intended 
to remove to. Ramah, as a convenient place for carrying on an aggressive 
war against Judah; but he was compelled to give up this plan (id. xv. 
17-21). Qmri, the fifth from Jeroboam, with an ambition not uncommon 
in the founder of a new dynasty, built Samakia, which was thenceferth the 
capital of the kingdom of Israel (id. xv. 24). 

The wars carried on between Israel and Judah need not here-be alluded 
to; but I shall just glance at those with other nations. The great rival of 
Israel was Damascus. Mutual interests at first united them ; but jealousies 
arose, excited by Judah, which led under Hazael to the almost complete 
subjugation of Israel. But on the death of Hazael Syria began to decline, 
and Israel regained its independence, The same power, however, which 
‘‘took away the kingdom from Damascus,” proved fatal to Samaria. It 
was captured by the Assyrians (B.c. 721), and the people carried away 
captive. The’ conqueror introduced colonies in their place from Babylon, 
Hamath, and other cities. The colonists practised their own idolatries ; and 
the country being infested with wild beasts, they thought, according to the 
prevailing idea among heathen nations, that their ignorance of the local deity 
was the cause. An Israelitish priest was accordingly sent to instruct them 
in the Jewish faith, which they appear to have, in a great measure, adopted 
(2 Kings xvii. 24-33). Such was the origin of the Samaritans, well known 
in the New Testament,. from our Lord’s interview with the woman at 
Jacob’s well. A few families of them still exist in Nabulus. 

The kingdom of Judah survived that of Israel 133 years; and then it, 
too, fell before an eastern monarch. Nebuchadtezzar King of Babylon | 
took Jerusalem after an 18 months’ siege, sacked and destroyed the city, : 
and led the peopte eaptive to the banks of the Tigris. Zedekiah, the last of 
David's royal line, after losing his eyes at Riblah, was carried in chains to 
Babylon (2 Kings xxv.). Thus ended the Israelitish monarchy, after | 
having existed more than 500 years. The Temple of Solomon fell with the | 
city, and its sacred vesgels were afterwards used in the idolatrous banquets ° 
of the conquerors. In the year 3.c, 536 Cyrus, having captured Babylon, 


1! 


Xxvi Mistorical Sketch. Introd. 


restored the Jews to liberty, and in 20 years more the second Temple was 
dedicated. From this time till Grecian power became paramount in 
western Asia, Syria and Palestine were governed by a Persian satrap 
resident in Damascus. The Jewish High-priest was made deputy at 
Jerusalem, and thus a large amount of liberty was there enjoyed. Phoenicia 
was the only province that rebelled against the foreign yoke; but the 
Persian power was too great to be resisted by a commercial state. The 
satrap laid siege to Sidon; and the inhabitants, to avoid falling into his 
hands, burned the city, their treasures, and themselves (B.c. 350). This 
was enough to cause the other towns to yield without a struggle, 

The battle of Issus (B.c. 333) was fatal to the Persian empire, and 
brought western Asia under the dominion of a new dynasty and a new race. 
Syria, Phoenicia, and Palestine yielded to Alexander the Great, with the 
exception of Tyre and Ascalon. The siege of the former city was one of 
the most remarkable operations of the Grecian conqueror. Built op an 
island 400 fathoms from the main land, encompassed by lofty walls, and 
having a fleet to provide supplies for the garrison, it was deemed im- 
pregnable. But Alexander with the rubbish of the ancient city, which 
stood on the shore, constructed a causeway to the island, and in seven 
months took the place by storm. Alexander’s causeway converted the 
island into a peninsula, and thus it still remains. Jerusalem had in the 
mean time been summoned to surrender; but the High-priest replied that he 
had sworn fealty to Darius, and could not violate his oath. Alexander, 
enraged at the reply, threatened soon to leave the city in ashes. ~ Ac- 
cordingly, after the capture of Tyre he turned to Jerusalem. But when he 
had reached the mountain brow, commanding the city from the W., he was 
met by a solemn and strange procession. The High-priest arrayed in his 
gorgeous pontifical robes, attended by a throng of priests in the habits of 
their order, and by a number of the citizens in white, presented themselves 
to the astonished monarch. When he saw the High-priest, he immediately 
advanced, saluted him, and adored the sacred name inscribed on his mitre. 
This singular conduct he thus explained to his followers: ‘‘I adore not the 
man, but the God with whose priesthood he is honoured. When I was at 
Dios in Macedonia, pondering how to subdue Asia, I saw this figure in a 
dream, and he encouraged me to advance, and promised that he would give 
me the Persian empire. I take this as an omen therefore that I have under- 
taken the expedition by a divine command, and that I shall completely 
overthrow the empire of Persia.” The Jews then received many important 
immunities. The Samaritans were not so fortunate, for, in consequence of 
an act of cruelty, they were expelled from their ancient capital, and forced 
to take refuge in Shechem, where they still dwell. 

On the death of Alexander his vast empire was thrown into confusion ; 
and his generals, left without a leader, desired, each by himself, to wield 
the sceptre of the conqueror. After 20 years of war, something like ordcr 
was restored, and four new kingdoms were established. With two of these 
only are we concerned—that of the Ptolemies in Egpyt, to whom Palestine 
and Ccelesyria were assigned; and that of the Seleucidzw, who obtained 
Northern Syria. Seleucus, the first monarch of the latter dynasty, founded 
the city of Antioch, which for a few centuries supplanted Damascus as 
capital of Syria. This royal line retained their sovereignty for 250 years, 
and then fell before the power of Rome. Under the mild and encouraging 


Introd. Historical Sketch. Xxvil 


rule of the Ptolemies, the inhabitants of Palestine lived for more than 60 
years. Then, however, as wars were waged between the Seleucid and the 
Ptolemies, this unfortunate province became the theatre of every contest, 
and alternately the prey of each dynasty. Near the close of the 3rd century 
B.C, it was wrested from the feeble hand of the infant King of Egypt by 
the Syrian monarch ; and the change was fatal to the peace, and almost 
to the existence, of the Jewish nation. In the year 8.0. 170 Antiochus 
Epiphanes plundered Jerusalem, and defiled the Temple. Two years after- 
wards, when the Jews had been driven to rebellion by cruelty and murder, 
he sent his general Apollonius to complete the work of destruction. He 
arrived at the Holy City; but his fearful errand was not suspected. He 
remained quiet until the Sabbath, on which day it was known the Jews of 
that age would not fight even in self-defence. The soldiers were then let 
loose, and scoured the streets, slaughtering all they met. The women and 
children were spared,—to be sold into slavery. Every street of the city, 
every court of the Temple, flowed with blood. The houses were pillaged, 
and the city walls laid prostrate. Having strengthened the fortifications of 
the citadel on Zion, Apollonius placed his garrison there to hold the Temple 
under command. Neither priest nor layman was permitted to approach the 
sacred precincts. Then, for a time, ‘‘the sacrifice and oblation ceased,” 
and Jerusalem was left desolate. A decree being shortly afterwards pro- 
mulgated that all under the sway of Antiochus should conform to Greek 


idolatry, the Temple was dedicated to Jupiter Olympus, and the altar of } 


God polluted by sacrifices offered to an idol. 

But the savage cruelty and mad policy of the Syrian monarch at last 
roused the Jews to revenge. The priestly family of the Asmoneans headed 
a noble band, who resolved to drive from their country the murderers of 
their kindred, and the blasphemers of their God, or die in the attempt. 
For 26 years the contest continued; and within that period Judas Mac- 
cabeeus and his brothers succeeded in establishing the independence of their 
country, and the supreme authority.of their house, after destroying more 
than 200,000 of the best troops of Syria. Accordingly with the year. B.c. 


= roe” 


first Book of Maccabees. This independence, however, must be considered 
more as the enjoyment of their own faith and laws under a native chief, 
than as perfect freedom from foreign ¢ontrol. It was not so much for 
absolute independence as for liberty of conscienee the Jews had fought. 
The disturbed state of the Syrian empire, and the wars of rival monarchs, 
contributed much to the tranquillity of Judea, and enabled its warlike 
princes. to extend their territory. At the conelusion of the reign of 
Alexander Jannzus the kingdom of Judea ineluded the whole of Idumea, 
Gadara, Gaulanitis, and a part of Iturea; while on the N. it extended to 
Carmel, Tabor, and Scythepolis. In this state the Jews remained until the 
conquest of the whole country by the Romans, when they were made to pay 
a heavy tribute, still, however, retaining their own rulers. In the year 
B.C. 84 the last prince of the Asmonean line was murdered by the Roman 
prefect of Syria, and Herod the Great made king of the Jews. In a.p. 6 
Judea was plaeed under the government of a Roman procurater; but the 
Herodian family continued to exercise royal authority over a part of Central 
Syria until the time of Agrippa, the last of the line, when the Jews revolted 
against Rome, and brought upon themselves that fearful war whieh ended 


~ 


XXVI1l Historical Sketch. Introd. 


in the capture of their city, the final destruction of their Temple, and the 
slaughter of more than a million of their race. Judea was now attached to 
the province of Syria; and soon afterwards the whole of Syria and Palestine 
was placed under the direct dominion of a Roman prefect, Antioch being 
the seat of government. 

, In this state the country continued under the Roman and Byzantine 
‘* empire until its conquest by the Mohammedans in a.p. 634. The only 
‘ circumstances worthy of notice, in a sketch like the present, which is chiefly. 
intended to illustrate the historical-geography, are the establishment of 
Christianity under the first Constantine; and the temporary conquests of 
the Persians, under Chosroes IJ., in the beginning of the 7th century. 
Christianity had spread widely over the land before its establishment as the 
religion of the empire; and the extent, wealth, and architectural taste of 
the Church subsequent to that period may still, to some extent, be seen, 
from the splendid ruins of the sacred edifices in the cities, towns, and 
villages of Syria. 

The Arabs, under the generals Khaled and Abu Obeidah, first invaded 
Syria in 633; and only five years afterwards the whole country was 
conquered, and every city in it garrisoned by their troops. In 16 years 
more Damascus was made capital of the Mohammedan empire, which then 
extended from the shores of the Atlantic to the confines of India. Syria 


was densely populated. Her cities scarcely yielded to any in the world in . 


wealth, extent, and architectural splendour. Antioch, Damascus, Palmyra, 
Heliopolis, Apamea, Gerasa, Bostra, Ascalon, and Cssarea, were almost 
unequalled, as provincial cities, in the wide extent of the Roman empire ; 
but under the withering influence of Islim their grandeur faded, and their 
wealth was eaten up. Of these, five are now completely deserted ; two are 
mere villages; Antioch, the capital, is little more ; and Damascus alone 
remains prosperous. 
' In the year 750 the dynasty of the Abassides was established, and the 


ee 


Seljukian Turks, and converted into a division of their empire. The 
cruelties perpetrated by these fanaties on the poor Christian pilgrims that 
thronged to Jerusalem roused the spirit of western Europe, and excited 
Christian nations to the first ‘‘Crusade” against the infidels. In a short 
time the mail-clad barons of Frdnee and England, headed by Godfrey, were 
seen winding through the valleys and traversing the plains of Syria. The 
fierce warriors of the Crescent could not withstand the steady valour of the 
, *red-cross Knights.” Jerusalem was taken by storm; and the cruelties 
‘the Mohammedans had perpetrated on the Christians were now amply 
avenged (4.D. 1099). 

When the slaughter had ceased, and the Crusaders had soothed their 
feelings by acts of devotion in the holiest places of a Holy City, the necessity 
of forming a regular government became apparent. Godfrey was at once 
elected first Christian King of Jerusalem. Bohemond reigned at Antioch ; 
Baldwin, Godfrey’s brother, at Edessa; and the Count of Toulouse at 
Tripoli. Thus was the country parcelled out into Christian principalities ; 


“7 


Introd. Eistorical Sketch. xxix 


and ruled by the bravest knights of western Europe. Damascus, however, 
withstood every assault of the Crusaders; and it is still the boast of the 
proud Muslem, that its sacred precincts have never been polluted by the 
feet of an infidel ruler since the day the soldiers of Mohammed first 
entered it. 

This is not the place for a history of the Crusades, nor even for a sketch 
of the changing fortunes of the several cities and provinces the Franks held 
in this country. I shall only add that they sustained a severe check from 
Nur ed-Din, a Tartar prince, who seized Damascus and some neighbouring 
cities. But his successor Saladin was by far the most formidable opponent 
the Crusaders ever encountered. After gaining a decisive victory over the 
Christian army at Hattin, near Tiberias, he captured Jerusalem (1187), 
and drove the Franks out of almost every town and fortress of Palestine. 
Jerusalem was not regained for more than 40 years; and even then it 
was only acquired by treaty. Soon afterwards Syria was invaded by the 
shepherd-soldiers of Tartary, under Holagou the grandson of Gengis Khan, 
and the whole Christian population of Jerusalem massacred. But after the 
death of this chief, Bibars, better. known in Arabian history as Melek 
ed-Dh&aher, brought Syria under the sceptre of Egypt, and drove the 
Tartars beyond the Euphrates. His victories were fatal to the declining 
power of the Crusaders. Almost all their strongholds in Palestine were 
captured, and Antioch itself soon yielded to his arms. ‘The remainihg 
history of the Crusades is one continued tale of misfortunes. At last in 
1291 Acre was taken by the Mamluke Sultan of Egypt; and thus ter- 
minated the dominion of the Crusaders in Syria. 

For more than two centuries after this period Syria was the theatre of 
fierce contests, carried on between the shepherd hordes of Tartary and their 
brethren the Tartar-Slave sovereigns of Egypt. The most fearful ravages, 
however, were committed by Timér (Tamerlane), who invaded the country 
in the year 1401. Antioch, Emesa, Ba’albek, and Damascus, were soon 
reduced to ashes ; and their unfortunate inhabitants either murdered or sold 
into slavery. 

In 1517 Syria and Palestine were conquered by Sultan Selim I.; and from 
that time until our own day they have formed part of the Ottoman Empire. 
During this period, though the country has been visited by few striking 
vicissitudes, it has steadily declined in power, wealth, and population. The 
greater part of its people, oppressed by foreign rulers, who take no interest 
in commerce or agriculture, have sunk into the condition of helpless and 
hopeless slavery. What little energy and spirit remain are exhausted in 
party feuds. Jn 1832 Ibrahim Pasha conquered the country for his father 
Mohammed Aly. The iron rule of that wonderful man did much to break 
down the fanatical spirit which had for ages been a curse to the people. In 
1841, through the armed intervention of England, Syria was restored to the 
Porte. 

For the history of Syria and Palestine the following authors may be con- 
sulted :—THE BispLE. Josephus. The new translation of Josephus’ Wars of 
the Jews, by Traill, is a great improvement on old Whiston; the topo- 
_ graphical notes are sometimes valuable; and the illustrations by Tipping 
are as accurate as they are beautiful. Prideaux’s Connexion of the Old and 
New Testament. Jahn’s Hebrew Commonwealth is valuable as containing 
a short critically-arranged history of the Hebrews. 


— 


Xxx Chronological Table. Introd. 


The history of Syria under the Romans is embraced in that of Rome 
itself. Gibbon’s Roman Empire, especially the last edition edited by Dr. 
Wm. Smith, is particularly valuable on Syria. ‘The best Arab historian is 
Abulfeda ; but his Annales Moslemict, like all other Arabic Annals, are 
brief and dry. De Guignes’s Histoire des Huns is invaluable for its full and 
clear account of the Tartar hordes. Much may also be learned regarding 
individuals from the Bibliothégue Orientale of d’Herbelot. Almost every- 
thing about the Crusades may be gathered from the Gesta Det per Francos 
by such as have the courage to go through 1500 pages folio of barbarous 
Latin. The best modern history of the Crusades is Wilken’s Geschichte 
der Kreuzzuge. 


3.—CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE, 


The following table will enable the traveller to see at a glance the age of 
the most prominent men, the dates of the most remarkable events, and the 
periods of the several kingdoms and dynasties that figure in the long line of 
Syrian history. Ido not stop to discuss the difficulties which beset this 
subject, but simply follow the chronology of the English Bible as arranged 
by Usher, and which is chiefly grounded on the Hebrew text. 


B.C, — 


2224 | About this time Aram’s family colonize Syria, or Aramea, and found Da- 
mascus —Canaan’s family colonize Palestine, and found Sidon. 

1921 | Abraham enters Canaan. His first resting-place was Sichem, from whence 

he went to the high plain between Bethel and Ai.—Gen. xii. 

1913 | Sodom and the cities of the plain plundered by Chedorlaomer. Abraham 
rescues Lot at Dan, and is blessed by Melchizedek, near Jerusalem.— 
Gen, xiv. 

1897 | The cities of the plain destroyed—Abraham at Mamre.—Gen. xviii., xix. 

1896 | Isaac born at Beersheba. A few years later Ishmael is driven out from 
Abraham’s tent, and dwells in the desert of Paran.—Gen, xxi. 

1836 | Esau and Jacob born at Mamre (?).—Gen. xxv. 

1760 | Jacob obtains his brother’s birthright.—Gen, xxvii. His dream at Bethel.— 
Gen. xxviii. And flight to Padan-aram. 

1739 | Jacob returns to Canaan.—Gen. xxxi. Meets with angels at Mahanaim.— 
Gen. xxxii. He pitches his tent at Shalem, and buysa field from Hamor, 
Shechem’s father.—Gen. xxxiii. 18-20. 

1728 | Joseph sold to the Ishmaelites at Dothan and taken to Egypt.—Gen. xxxvii, 

1706 | Jacob and his family remove from Beersheba to Egypt.—Gen. xlvi. 

1689 | Jacob dies in Egypt, and is buried in Hebron.—Gen. xlix. 

1635 | Joseph dies in Egypt.—Gen, 1. 

1571 | Moses born.—Ex. ii. 

1491 | His interview with Jehovah at the burning bush on Sinaj.—Ex. iii. The 
Israelites leave Egypt, pass the Red Sea, and enter the wilderness of Sinai. 
The Law is given from Sinai.—Ex. xiv.-xx, 

1452 | Aaron dies on Mount Hor.— Num. xx, 22-29, 

1451 | Moses dies on Pisgah.— Deut, xxxiv. 

1450 | The Israelites, under Joshua, cross the Jordan, and encamp at Gilgal. 
—VJosh., iii., iv. Jericho and Ai taken. Law read on Ebal and Gerizim. 
League with the Gibeonites, and defeat of the five kings of the Amorites. 
The south of Palestine conquered, —Josh, v.-x. 


Introd. . Chronological Table. XXX1 


B.C. —— 

1450 | The allied kings, under Jabin King of Hazor, conquered at the ‘‘ Waters of 

to Merom.”—Josh. xi. 1-14, The north of Palestine subdued.—Josh. 

1444 xi,, xii. 

1444 | The land divided by lot at Shiloh, and the Tabernacle set up.—Josh. 
xiii.-xix, ° 


1434 | Joshua dies after a farewell charge to the Israelites at Shechem. He is 
buried at Timnath-Serah, in Mount Ephraim.—Josh. xxiv. 

1406 | The sin of the people of Gibeah, and the destruction of the Benjamites. 
The 600 who were saved take refuge on the “rock Rimmon,” and obtain 
wives from Jabesh-Gilead and Shiloh.— Judges xix.-xxi. 

1405 | Othniel, the first Judge, rules Israel 40 years.—Judges iii. 9-11. 

1245 | Barak, the fourth Judge, conquers Sisera on the banks of the Kishon, in 
Taanach.—Judges iv., v. 

1205 | Gideon, the fifth Judge, conquers the Medianites at the “Well of Harad,” 
near Jezree].—Judges vi., vii. 

1187 | Jephthah, the eighth Judge, conquers the Ammonites, and sacrifices his 
daughter at Mizpeh, on the east of the Jordan.—Judges xi. 

1116 | Samson, the twelfth Judge, perishes with the Philistine nobles at Gaza.— 
Judges xvi. Soon afterwards the Ark is captured by the Philistines, 
and carried to Ashdod.—1 Sam. v. It is sent back to Beth-shemesh, and 
thence conveyed to Kirjath-jearim.—1 Sam. vi. 

1095 | Saul anointed king by Samuel at Ramah, and elected by the people at 
Mizpeh.—1 Sam. x. 

1055 | Saul and Jonathan slain on Mount Gilboa.—1 Sam, xxxi, David made king 
of Judah at Hebron.—2 Sam. ii. 

1048 | David made king over all Israel at Hebron.—2 Sam. v. 

1045 | David captures JERUSALEM from the Jebusites, and makes it his capital.— 
2 Sam. v. 

. 1040 | David conquers Aramea (Syria), and puts garrisons in Damascus; Hadad 
was then king of Damascus, and his posterity reigned there for ten genera- 
tions, Hadad being the title of the dynasty.—2 Sam. viii. 

1015 | David dies, and Solomon succeeds him.—1 Kings ii. 

1011 | The Temple founded. It was completed in seven years. Hiram was then 
king of Phenicia.—1 Kings viii. 

975 | Solomon dies, The kingdom divided, 


KINGS OF KINGS OF 
JUDAH. ISRAEL. . 
Rehoboam Jeroboam ..| Shechem made capital of Israel.—1 Kings 
xii. The kings of Israel also resided at 
Tirzah.— 1 Kings xiv. 17. Golden 
calves set up at Bethel and Dan.—1 Kings 
xii., xiii. . 
957 | Abijam 
955 | Asa 
954 | .. we oe «ef Nadab 
953 |... .. .. ..| Baasha.. ..| Asa engages Benhadad king of Damascus to 
attack the Israelites. The cities of Dan, 
Ijon, Abel, &c., captured.—1 Kings xv. 
930! .. .. « «| Elah 


XXX1i Chronological Table. Introd. 

B.C KINGS OF KINGS OF 

-_ JUDAH. - ISRAEL, 

929 | 2. «6 oe oof Zimri ..| The palace of Tirzah destroyed.—1 Kings xvi. 

Omri Omri founds Samaria, and makes it his ca- 
pital.—1 Kings xvi. 

918 | .. .. .. ..| Ahab. . 

914 | Jehoshaphat | .. .. Elijah fed by ravens at the brook Cherith, 
and by the widow of Zarephath, during 
the famine.—1 Kings xvii. His sacrifice 
on Carmel, and slaughter of false pro- 
phets.—1 Kings xviii. 

901 oe Benhadad king of Damascus defeated by the 
Israelites at Samaria.—1 Kings xx. 

897 Ahaziah.. ..| Ahab slain in batttle at Ramoth-Gilead.— 
1 Kings xxii. 

896 | .. .. .. Jehoram. 

889 | Jehoram. 7 

885 | Ahaziah.. .. . The last of the dynasty of Hadad murdered 
by Hazael, who usurped the throne of 
Damascus,—2 Kings viii. Elisha’s mi- 
racles, 

884 | Athaliah. ..| Jehu... Jehu kills Ahaziah at Jezreel.—2 Kings ix. 
Jezebel also slain in the streets of Jezreel. 
—2 Kings ix. 

878 | Jehoash. 

856 | 1. wwe. Jehoahaz, 

840 -s o- «+ «| Hazael dies, and leaves the kingdom of Da- 
mascus to his son Adad. 

839 | .. we. Jehoash. 

838 | Amaziah. 

825 | .. wee. Jeroboam II,| Jeroboam captures Damascus.—2 Kings xiv.” 

810 | Uzziah. 

784] 2... - Jeroboam dies, Interregnum of 11 years. — 
2 Kings xiv., xv, 8. 

773 Zachariah. 

772 Shallum The Assyrians, under Pul, invade northern 

Menahem ‘Palestine. —2 Kings xv. 19-22. 

761 Pekahiah. 

759 Pekah .. Tiglath-pileser invades northern Palestine, 
and carries the people captive to Assyria. 

. —2 Kings xv. 27. 

758 | Jotham. 

742 | Ahaz . The kings of Israel and Damascus besiege 
Jerusalem. Ahaz obtains aid from the 
Assyrians, whose king, Tiglath-pileser, 

' captures Damascus, The kingdom of 
Syria thus terminates.—2 Kings xvi. 
730 Hosea, 
726 | Hezekiah, 
721 | .. 4. .. ..|The kingdom of Israel overthrown by Salmaneser, king of 
Assyria.—2 Kings xvii. 

710 | .. .. ++ «| The army of Sennacherib destroyed near Lachish, on the 
plain of Philistia.—2 Kings xviii. 

698 | Manasseh. . 


Introd. Chronological Table. Xxxlii 
KINGs OF 
B.C JUDAH, 
676 «+ «+ e+ Eserhaddon invades Judah, and carries Manasseh captive to 
Babylon. ‘ He was again restored.— 2 Chron, xxxiii. 

643 | Amon. ‘ 

641 | Josiah. 

610 | Jehoahaz ..| Josiah slain in battle with Pharaoh-Necho king of Egypt. 

2 Kings xxiii. 

610 | Jehoiakim 

606 | .. .. .. Nebuchaduoezzar takes Jerusalem. From this time dates 

the 70 years’ captivity,— 2 Chron. xxxvi, 
599 | Jehoiakim. 
Zedekiah ../ Jehoiakim carried to Babylon, and Zedekiah made king.— 
2 Chron. xxxvi. 
588 -. «- | Zedekiah rebels, Nebuchadnezzar, after a two years’ siege, 
burns Jerusalem, destroys the Temple, and carries 
the remaining Jews captive.—2 Chron, xxxvi. 

573 | Tyre taken after a siege of thirteen years by Nebuchadnezzar. 

544 | Cyrus conquers Syria and Palestine. 

536 | The exiled Jews permitted by Cyrus to return to their country.—Ezra i. 

534 | The second Temple commenced.—Ezra iii. The Samaritans interfere, and 

the work suspended,—Ezzra iii. 

515 | The Temple dedicated. —Ezra vi. 

445 | Nehemiah appointed viceroy. Builds walls of Jerusalem.—Neh. iii. 

408 | The Samaritans erect a temple on Gerizim, 

351 | Sidon destroyed by Ochus king of Persia. 

333 | Battle of Issus. Syria conquered by Alexander the Great. . 

332 | Alexander captures and destroys Tyre. He enters Jerusalem. 

323 | Alexander dies at Babylon. 

312 | The Era of the Seleucide commences. 

Kincs oF Syria: | Krnas or Eaypt: 
SELEUCID. PTOLEMIES. 
Seleucus. 

304 | 2. 4. 4s oe e+ | P. Sotor. 

S00 | -- oe ce oe oe | oe oe ee oe + | Syria and Palestine divided be- 
tween the Seleucide and Pto- 
lemies. Antioch founded. 

284 | 1... oe -- «- | P. Philadelphus. 

279 | Antiochus Sotor. 

261 | A. Theos, 

246 | .. we oe we P. Euergetes, 

245 | S. Callinicus. , 

225 | S. Ceraunus. 

222 | A, the Great. 

221 | .. 2. 2 e+ os | P. Philopater.. 

204 | .. .. «+ « o | P. Epiphanes, 

203 | os 2s oo oo oo | oo oo «oo oe eo | Palestine conquered by Antiochus 
with Phenicia and Celesyria. 

186 ! S, Philopater. 


XXXIV 


BC Krnas or Syria: | Kuxas or Eayer: 
ee PTOLEMIES, 


180 
175 
170 


167 


166 


164 
162 
160 
150 
145 
143 
137 
135 
130 


125 
123 
116 


114 


SELEUCIDA, 


A. Epiph: os, ee 


A, Eupator, 

Demetrius Sotor. 
Alex. Bala. oe 
Dem. Nicator .. 
A. Sidetus, 


o 
ee oe eo ee 


oe oe ee ee es 
ae eo ee ee eo 


Seleucus, 


Chronological Table. 


P. Sotor IT. 


ee ee ee ae 


P, Philometer. 


Introd. 


A. Epiphanes plunders the Temple, 
and slaughters many Jews. 
The Syrian army commit great 
cruelties in Jerusalem ; abolish 
the worship of God ; and erect 
a statue to Jupiter. The Jews 

revolt under Mattathias, 


JEWISH PRINCES. 


Judas Maccabeeus 


Jonathan. 


Simon, 
John Hyrcanus, 


Aristobulus, 
Alex. Janneus, 


This dynasty 
begins with 
Judas, son 
of Matta- 
thias. 


The Jews now 
become in- 
dependent, 


KINGS OF 
DAMASCUS, 


The kingdom 
of Syria di- 
vided: Ant, 
Cyzicenus be- 
comes Ist K. 
of Damascus. 


Antiochus Enu- 
sebes. 


Dem. Euchares 

Ant. Dionysias 

Aretas king of 
Arabia takes 
the crown of 
Damascus, 


Introd. Chronological Table.  xxxy 


B.C. 


62 


37 


Kings Or Syria: | Kinas or Eeyet: 
SELEUCID, PTOLEMIES, 


JEWISH PRINCES, 


Tigranes. 


Alexander. 
oe Alexandra. 

eee eres eee Aristobulus. 

Kingdom of Seleu- oe ee | ee oe os oe « | Damascuscap- 
cide overthrown tured by 
Pompey. 
Hyrcanus, .. .. | Pompey enters 
Jerusalem, 
imprisons 
Aristobulus, 
and makes 
Hyrcanus 
ruler, 
Scaurus, the 
first Roman 
Prefect of Sy- 
ria, 


The Parthians 
conquerSyria 
and Palestine, 


-. .. | Cleopatra 


HerodtakesJe- 
rusalem, and 
is made king 
by the Ro- 
mans, 


oo oe oe es oe | es ee oe eo ee | Cleopatra, the last of the line of 
the Ptolemies, commits suicide. 

Herod rebuilds Samaria, and calls it SEBASTE. 

The provinces of Trachon, Auranitis, and Batanea given to Herod. Cessarea- 

Philippi founded. 

Deposition and death of Zenodorus, His territory given to Herod. 

Temple rebuilt by Herod. 

Death of Herod. There is an error of four years in the common era, 


Archelaus, Herod’s successor, is deposed, and Jerusalem placed under a 
Roman procurator, 

Pontius Pilate appointed procurator of Judea. 

The CRUCIFIXION. 

Aretas king of Arabia captures Damascus, Paul’s flight from the city took 
place about two years afterwards, 

Jerusalem destroyed by Vespasian. 

Bostra made capital of the country east of the Jordan. The BosTRian Era 


begins, 


Chronological Table. Introd. 


679 
683 


684 
750 


969 


1075 
1098 
1099 


1101 
1118 
1131 
1143 
1163 
1174 


1181 
1186 
1187 


1189 


1191 
1193 
1209 
1225 


1228 
1240 


Zenobia queen of Palmyra. 

Palmyra captured by Aurelian. 

The Persians, under Chosroes II., invade Syria. 

The Mohammedan Era called el-Hijrah begins July 16th. 

Damascus taken by the Saracens. 

Jerusalem taken. 

Antioch taken. 

Moawyeh I. assumes the Khalifite, and establishes the seat of his govern- 
ment at Damascus, 


’ KHALIFS OF DAMASCOS. 


A.D. A.D. 
Moawyeh I. 705 | Walid I. 743 | Walfd IT. 
Yezid I. 715 | Suliman, 744 | Yezid Il. 
Moawyeh II. 717 | Omar. "| Ibrahim. 
Mirwa4n I. 720 | Yezid II. Mirwén II. 
Abdelmelek. 724 | Hashem. 
The dynasty of the Omeyades overthrown, and the Khalifite removed from 


Damascus. 

Syria and Palestine brought under the dominion of the Fatimite Khalifs of 
Egypt. 

Syria captured by Atsis, general of Melek-Shah. 

Antioch captured by CRUSADERS. 

Jerusalem taken by storm. Godfrey elected King. 


FRANK KINGS OF JERUSALEM, 


Godfrey. 
Baldwin I. 
Baldwin de Burg IT. 
Fulk. 
Baldwin III. 
Almeric. 
ss ce ee oe ee «e| Death of Nur ed-Din. Saladin succeeds him in the 
government of Damascus. 
Baldwin IV. .. .. ..| This king a leper, 
Baldwin V. 
Guy de Lusignan. 


os as ee oe es eo «| Saladin conquers the crusaders at Hattin, and takes 


Jerusalem. 
Isabel... .. .. .. ~-| Married to—1. Conrad; 2. Henry Count of 
Champagne; 3. Almeric of Lusignan. 


oo oe ce oe «0 oe e-| Richard Coeur de Lion arrives in Palestine, 


oe oe es es ee «| Saladin dies, 


“Mary oo e+ oe e+ «| Married to John of Brienne. 


Violante .. .. .. ..| Married to the Emperor Frederic. 


Jerusalem restored to Christians by treaty. 
Alice, daughter of Violante, claims the crown. 


Introd. Inhabitants. XXXVil 


1241 | The Tartars plunder Jerusalem. 

1246 | Henry, son of Alice, claims the crown. 

1247 | Hugh also claims it. 

1291 | Acre, the last possession of the Crusaders, lost. 

1400 | Syria conquered by Timur. Damascus plundered and burned. 
1518 


Syria and Palestine conquered by Selim, Sultan of Constantinople. 
Syria and Palestine conquered by Ibrahim Pasha. 
Syria and Palestine restored to the Sultan. 


4.—INHABITANTS OF SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 


The inhabitants of Syria and Palestine form a most interesting study. 
Their dress, their manners and customs, and their language, are all primitive. 
No European nation, with the exception perhaps of the Spaniards, bears the 
least resemblance to them. Like Spain, too, the best specimens of humanity 
are here found among the lower classes. The farther we go from the con- 
taminated atmosphere of government offices, the more successful shall we be 
in our search after honesty, industry, and genuine patriarchal hospitality— 
the great, almost the only unadulterated virtue of the Arab. They are 
illiterate, of course, and extremely ignorant of all Frank inventions ; but 
still there is a native dignity in their address and deportment, which will 
both please and astonish those who have seen the awkward vulgarity of the 
lower classes in some more favoured lands. Whether we enter the tent of 
the Bedawy or the cottage of the fellzh, we are received and welcomed with 
an ease and courtesy that would not disgrace a palace. The modes of salu- 
tation are very formal—perhays some would call them verbose and even 
tedious. One is apt to imagine, on hearing the long series of reiterated 
inquiries after the,health, happiness, and prosperity of the visitor who 
drops in, and the evasive replies given, that there is surely some hidden 
grief, some secret malady, which his politeness would fain conceal, but 
which the heartfelt sympathy of the host constrains him to search into. 
It is disappointing to discover, as every one will in time discover, 
that this is all form; and that the “thousand and one” keif keifaks ? 
and ketf khatéraks? and keif hal sithhétaks? and inshallah mabsiits ? 
and the equally numerous, but not very satisfactory responses of, Ullah 
yusallémak, Ullah yusallem khdtérak, Ullah yahftizak, Ullah yutawwel 
’umrak—are all phrases which mean nothing, so far as the feelings of 
those who use them are concerned. Still there is something pleasing in 
these inquiries, compliments, and good wishes, empty though they be. The 
gestures used in salutation are also graceful, if a little complicated. The 
touching of the heart, the lips, and the forehead with the right hand, seems 
to say that each one thus saluted is cherished in the heart, praised with the 
lips, and esteemed with the intellect. When peculiar deference and respect 
are intended to be shown, the right hand is first lowered almost to the ground, 
as a proof that the individual would honour your very feet, or the soil 
you tread. A still greater deference is implied in kissing the hand; and 
the greatest of all is kissing the feet. These latter, however, it 1s just as 

[Syria and Palestine.) o 


XXXVill Inhabitants. Introd. 


dignified for travellers firmly, but courteously, to resist. Another remark 
may be made on a curious custom which universally prevails in Syria. An 
Arab when eating, whether in the house or by the wayside, however poor 
and scanty may be his fare, never neglects to invite the visitor, or passing 
wayfarer, to join him. And this is not always an empty compliment; 
indeed there are few Arabs who will not feel honoured by the traveller’s 
tasting their humble fare. The invitation, however, is generally declined by 
a set courteous phrase. The word of invitation is invariably tefuddhel, the 
multifarious meaning of which I can only interpret by the Italian favorisca, 
The complimentary declinature is, Ullah yeztd fudhlak, ‘‘May God increase 
your bounty.”? In passing his house, too, in company with a stranger, the 
Arab will always invite him in, by the same tefuddhel ; and in presenting 
coffee, sherbet, fruit, or any other delicacy, the same word is used—in fact, 
with the exception of bakhshish, it is the most common and expressive word 
in the Arabic language. : 

In making purchases from an Arab, his politeness is almost amazing. 
When the price is asked, he replies, ‘‘ Whatever you please, my lord.” 
When pressed for a more definite answer, he says, “ Take it without mo- 
ney.” One cannot but remember, under such circumstances, Abraham’s 
treaty with the sons of Heth for the cave of Machpelah (Gen. xxiii.). Our 
feelings of romance, however, are somewhat damped when we find that the 
price ultimately demanded is four or five times the value of the article. An 
Arab always tells you that his house is yours, his property is yours, he him- 
self is your slave; that he loves you with all his heart, would defend you 
with his life, &c. &c. ‘ This all sounds very pretty, but it will be just as well 
not to rely too much on it for fear of disappointment, Nothing, however, is 
lost by politeness ; and so one may seem to believe all that is said, and 
even utter an occasional Ullah yutawwel’umrak ya sidy, ‘May God pro- 
long your life, O my lord!” by way of showing gratitude. The Arabs are 
most profuse in the use of titles. Every beggar will address his fellow with 
“O my lord,” ya stdy (pronounced seedy), or “ Your excellency,” jéndébak ; 
while the traveller is generally saadatak, “ Your highness.” It has been too 
often the practice of Englishmen to “manage” their Arab servants and 
muleteers by bullying and browbeating; but this is a great mistake. In- 
solent dragomen generally resort to such practices to sustain their temporary 
tyranny. I need not say that such conduct is beneath the dignity of an 
English gentleman. Unvarying courtesy, accompanied with as unvarying 
Jirmness, will gain the desired object far more effectually. This is especially 
the case with the Bedawin, who can often be persuaded by a kind word when 
they could not be driven by a rod of iron. At the same time, any approach 
to undue familiarity shonld be immediately checked; the permission of 
such familiarity will be attributed by the Arab to weakness of character, 
perhaps in some cases to fear, of which he will not be slow to take advan- 
tage when occasion offers. To know one’s place and keep it, and to know 
one’s rights and insist on obtaining tbem, are all-important qualifications in 
Syria as elsewhere. 

The only exception to the general politeness of the Arabs (by which name 
I call al the people of Syria) is to be found in some bigoted Muslems of 
the old school (generally confined to the great cities), who have for long cen- 
turies confounded the words kéfer, kelb, and Nusrény—* infidel,” “dog,” 
and “ Christian ;” and have, consequently, treated them all with the same 


Introd. | - Inhatitants. xxxix 


contempt. The best way to deal with such people is to take no notice of 
them. They generally satisfy their dignity by muttering a curse, which 
can do no harm. Travellers should be cautious, in addressing Muselms, not 
to offend their prejudices. For example—the salutation, Salému ’aletkum, 
** Peace be upon you,” should never be used by a Christian in saluting a 
Muslem: it is the distinguishing salutation of the “ faithful,” who alone 
claim the right of invoking peace on others. For the kdfer to invoke 
peace on the “‘ believer ” is an insult; so at least the Muslems argue, and 
it is useless to contradict them. A polite Christian, even when a Muslem 
honours him with the above salutation, will not return the otherwise uni- 
- form answer, Aleikum es-salém, “Upon you be peace ;” but will employ 
some other phrase, so as to avoid even the semblance of offence. By keep- 
ing in mind these few remarks, and setting them down as the peculiarities of 
the country, which strangers will observe if they would not be thought vul- 
gar and ignorant, the traveller or occasional resident may smooth his way 
and secure respect. 

The modern inhabitants of Syria and Palestine are a mixed race, made up 
of the descendants of the ancient Syrians who occupied the country in the 
early days of Christianity, and of the Arabians who came in with the armies 
of the khialifs and settled in the cities and villages. The number of the 
latter being comparatively small, the mixture of blood did not visibly change 
the type of the ancient people. This may be seen by a comparison of the 
Christians -with the Mohammedans—the former are undoubtedly of pure 
Syrian descent, while the latter are more or less mixed ; and yet there is no 
visible distinction between the two classes save what dress makes. Every 
one, however, can at a glance distinguish the Jew, the Turk, or the Arme- 
nian, each of whom is of a different race. 

The whole inhabitants may be best considered as “ Religious Sects.” It is 
religion which has made most of the real distinctions that are found to exist 
among them, though difference of climate and mode of life have also 
had their effect on dress and minor matters. The mountaineer, for ex- 
ample, has his bag-trousers of immense capacity, his stiff embroidered 
jacket, and his trim turban ; while the Bedawy of the desert is sans-culottes, 
and his raiment consists of a loose calico shirt, over which is occasionally 
thrown the abba, and on his head is the kuftyeh bound with a twisted rope 
of camel’s hair. The city gentleman struts about in his flowing robes, 
yellow slippers, red over-shoes, and turban of spotless white or embroidered 
Indian muslin; while the felldh of the Anti-Lebanon hills or Damascus | 
plain looks more active in his gay-coloured spencer and short Turkish 
trousers. The inhabitants of some of the villages of Palestine, and of the 
plains of Hamah, seem to carry most of their wardrobe on their heads, for 
the enormous turban is out of all proportion tothe scanty shreds that cling 
round the body. 

I shall now glance at the several religious sects, &c. 


1. THe MoHAMMEDANS.—These are and have been for many centuries 
the “lords of the soil,” and they constitute the great majority of the commu- 
nity. They are proud, fanatical, and illiterate. They are taught by the 
faith they hold to look with contempt on all other classes, and to treat them 
not merely as inferiors but as slaves. They are generally noble in bearing, 
polite in address, and profuse in hospitality; but they are rguardless of 

' c 


° 
* 


xl Inhabitants. Introd. 


truth, dishonest in their dealings, and immoral in their conduct. In all 
large towns the greater proportion, especially of the upper classes, are both 
physically and mentally feeble, owing to the effects of polygamy, early mar- 
riages, and degrading vices; but the peasantry are robust and vigorous, and 
much mizht be hoped for from them if they were brought under the influ- 
ence of liberal institutions, and if they had examples around them of the 
industry and the enterprise of Western Europe. Experience, indeed, has 
already shown that they are not slow to adopt the improvements of other 
lands. 

In relizion the Mohammedans of Syria are Sonnites, or Traditionists—that 
is, in addition to the written word of the Koran, which they acknowledge 
with all others, they recognise the authority of the Sonna, a collection of 
traditional sayings and anecdotes of the “ Prophet,” which is a kind of 
supplement to the Koran, directing the right observance of many things 
omitted in that book. They are in general very exact in the observance of 
the outward rites of their religion ; and in Islim there is little else but out- 
ward rites. Their fast of Ramaddén is kept by a vast majority with scrupu- 
lous care; but it must be admitted that long abstinence has not the effect of 
sweetening their temper or improving their morals. ‘The Mohammedan is 
proud of his faith, and resents to the utmost of his power every insult 
offered to it. He does not intrude the subject on strangers, and strangers 
should be careful not to offend his prejudices or excite his fanaticism. In 
all intercourse with them a dignified, upright, and straightforward manner 
and policy will command respect and secure in the easiest way every honest 
object. It needs both tact and penetration to deal with them in political 
matters, for they make free use of lies and deception. 

Besides the Sonnites or orthodox Mohammedans, there are several other 
sects, which we must class under the common name Mohammedan. 

The Metdwileh (sing. Mutawély) are the followers of Aly, the son-in-law 
of Mohammed. is predecessors, Abu Bekr, Omar, and Othman, they do 
not acknowledge as true khialifs. Aly they maintain to be the lawful 
Imam ; and they hold that the supreme authority, both in things spiritual 
and temporal, belongs of right to his descendants alune. They reject the 
Sonna, and are therefore regarded as heretics by the Orthodox. They are 
allied in faith to the Shiites of Persia. They are almost as scrupulous about 
cleanliness and uncleanliness in their ceremonial observances as the Hin- 
doos. The traveller will do well to bear this in mind as he passes through 
their territories, both that he may not give offence by undue familiarity, and 
that he may not take offence should he find himself treated as an unclean 
animal. They will neither eat nor drink with those of another faith, 
nor will they even use the ordinary drinking-vessels or cooking-utensils of 
others. I have seen them deliberately break a vessel which a traveller 
had unwittingly put to his lips. 

The districts in which they chiefly reside are Ba’albek, where their chiefs 
are the noted family of Harfash, for many years the pests of the country ; 
Belad Besharah, on the southern part of the Lebanon range ; and a district on 
the west bank of the Orontes, around the village of Hurmitil. They also 
occupy several scattered villages in Lebanon. 

The Nusatriyeh or Ansatriyeh.—It is not easy to tell whether these 
people are to be classed among the Mohammedans or nof. Their religion 
still remains a secret, notwithstanding all attempts lately made to dive into 


Introd. Inhabitants. xli. 


their mysteries. They are represented by Asseman as holding a faith half 
Christian and half Mohammedan. They believe in the transmigration of 
souls; and observe in a singular, perhaps idolatrous manner, a few of the 
ceremonies common in the Eastern Church. They inhabit a range of 
mountains extending from the great valley N. of Lebanon to the gorge of 
the Orontes at Antioch. They are a wild and somewhat savage race, given 
to plunder, and even bloodshed, when their passions are excited or suspicion 
roused ; their country must therefore be traversed with caution. 

The Ismatliyeh, who inhabit a few villages on the eastern slopes of the 
Ansairiyeh mountains,.resemble the former in this, that their religion is a 
mystery. They were originally a religious-political subdivision of the 
Shiites, and are the feeble remnant of a people too well known in the time of 
the Crusades under the name of Assassins. hey have still their chief seat 
in the Castle of Masyad, on the mountains W. of Hamah, 


2. Tue Druzes. (The generic name in Arabic is ed-Derdéz—sing. 
Durzy).—This remarkable sect calls for a somewhat more minute notice — 
than the others, for two reasons :—First, because their religious tenets 
have excited a good deal of interest in urope ; and second, because they 
are generally regarded as allies of England, and English travellers are likely 
to hear and see much of them. 

The peculiar doctrines of the Druzes were first propagated in Egypt by 
the notorious Hakim, third of the Fatimite dynasty. This khalif, who 
gave himself out for a prophet, though he acted more like a madman, 
taught a system of half-materialism, asserting that the Deity resided in 
Aly. In the year a.p. 1017 a Persian of the sect of Batenis, called Mo- 
hammed Ben-Ismail ed-Derazy, settled in Egypt, and became a devoted fol- 
lower and stimulator of Hakim. He not only asserted the absurd pre- 
tensions of the new Egyptian prophet, but he added to his doctrines that of 
the transmigration of souls, which he had brought with him from Ifis 
native country ;. and he carried his fanaticism to such an extent that the 
people at last rose in a body and drove him out of Egypt. He took refuge 
in Wady et-Teim, at the western base of Hermon; and, being secretly 
supplied with money by the Egyptian monarch, propagated his dogmas, 
and became the founder of the Druzes. His system was enlarged, and in 
some degree modified, by other disciptes of Hakim, especially by the Persian 
Hlamza, whom the Druzes still venerate as the founder of their sect and the 
author of their law. Hamza tried to gain over the Christians by repre- 
senting Hakim as the Messiah whose advent they expected. Such was the 
origin of the Druze religion. 

The tenets, and especially the mode of worship, of the Druzes are still 
kept strictly secret. A few of their books have found their way into the 
public libraries of Europe. From these Da Sacy has compiled an account 
of such of their doctrines as are revealed in them; but many of their rites 
and ceremonies are unintelligible. Their Confession of Faith, so far as 
known, consists of the following propositions :— 

(1.) The Unity of God, and his manifestation of Himself to men in the 
persons of several individuals, the last of whom was Hakim. 

(2.) Five superior spiritual ministers always existing. These have also 
appeared in the persons of men at various periods. The chief of them were 


- Hamza and Christ. 7 


xii Inhabitants. Introd. 


(3.) The transmigration of souls. The souls of men never pass into 
animals. 

(4.) The belief in a period when their religion shall be triumphant—Hakim 
shall reign, and all others be subject to him for ever. 

(5.) The seven points of Islam are set aside, and the following substi- 
tuted :—1. Veracity (to each other). 2. Mutual protection and aid. 3. 
Renunciation of all other religions (implying persecution of others). 4. Pro- 
fession of the unity of Hakim (as God). 5. Contentment with his works. 
6. Submission to his will. 7. Separation from those in error and from 
demons. 

As regards religion the Druzes are divided into two classes, the “ initiated,” 
( Okkal) and “ ignorant” QJuhhal). In this respect they bear a closer re- 
semblance to the ancient idolators of Egypt, Syria, and Persia, than any 
other sect now existing. With the ’Okkdl the rights and ceremonies remain 
secret. The holy books-are never exhibited but among themselves. They 
have some ceremonies, or are supposed to have some, which are less pure 
and spiritual than those set forth in their creed. They assemble in their 
chapels (Khilweh) every Thursday evening, refusing admission to all 
others. What they do then and there is unknown. It is a kind of free- 
masonry, which others are unable to penetrate. <A figure of a calf, made of 
brass or other metal, has been found in their places of worship, and is sup- 
posed by some to be an idol; but others affirm that it is only used as a 
representation of systems of worship which they despise, and which, as 
thus symbolized, they hold up to ridicule. Therecan be no question that 
their books, so far as known, do not seem to favour idolatry. ‘Their places 
of worship are usually in remote but conspicuous spots—most of them on 
the summits of hills. Absolute privacy is the object. 

The ’ Okkdi are professedly very strict in their mode of life, abstaining 
from wine and tobacco, and (what is much more difficult) from all money 
and goods obtained fraudulently. But a dispensation is easily obtained. 
Wine may be good for the stomach; and may, therefore, be taken as a me- 
dicine.—A pipe helps digestion ; and who could condemn its moderate in- 
dulgence?—Even money, too, however obtained, has only to be exchanged 
for that of an honest man, if such a man can be got, and then it may be 
appropriated with impunity. 

There can be little doubt that the Druzes are more a political than a re- 
ligious body. Their secret meetings are more for collecting and communi- 
cating information than for any acts of worship. Their ’Okkdls are the 
chief advisers both in peace and war. The whole country in which they 
reside is divided into districts; each district has its council of ’Okkal as- 
sembling weekly ; a delegate from each council appears at each meeting of 
the councils of the bordering districts to hear and to communicate every- 
thing that has occurred affecting the Druze interests. The rapidity aud 
accuracy with which news is thus propagated throughout the whole body 
is astonishing, and is of vast importance in time of war. Their religion is, 
outwardly at least, very accommodating. They are ready, in the widest 
sense, to become “all things to all men,” that their own ends may be 
served. With the Mohammedans they are Mohammedans, that they may 
reap the benefit of their alliance; and with the Christian officers of England 
they were willing not many years ago to become Christians, that they 
might secure the all-powerful protection of our country. They unques- 


Introd. Inhalatants. xliii 


tionably constitute one of the strongest and most united parties in Syria. 
They are not so numerous, but they are far more warlike than the Maro- 
nites. They are industrious and hospitable when at peace; but in war 
they are noted for their daring ferocity, and, when prompted by a spirit of 
revenge, they will not rest till they have shed the blood of their enemy. 
They occupy the southern section of the chain of Lebanon; their great 
strongholds being around Jezzin and Mukhtarah, and in the valley of 
Barak. ‘They also abound in the villages on the eastern and western de- 
clivities of Hermon, and in Jebel Haurin. There are a few in Damascus 
and in one or two villages around it. Their numbers may be estimated at 
about 78,000. 


3. THE CHRISTIANS are divided into several sects, the origin and tenets 
of which the traveller may wish to know. 

The Greeks.—These are the most numerous of the Christian sects. They 
are called Greeks (2m in Arabic) simply because they profess the Greek 
faith, and belong to the Greek or Oriental Church. They are, almost to a 
man, Syrians both by birth and descent; and there is not a trace either in 
their spoken language, or in the language of their public services, of any 
national affinity with the people of Greece. The total number of those 
who belong to the Greek Church in Syria and Palestine has been estimated 
at 42000 5 while all the other Christian sects put together amount to 

000. 

The doctrines and ritual of the Greek Church in Syria are the same as in 
other countries. The principal points on which they differ from the Romish 
Church are:—1. The calendar. 2. The procession of the Holy Spirit. 
3. The exclusion of images from sacred buildings (pictures are freely ad- 
mitted, if not too like life). 4. The rejection of a purgatory. 5. Com- 
munion in both kinds. And 6. The marriage of the secular clergy. In 
almost all other respects, the doctrines and ritual are like those of Rome. 
The homage paid to pictures, saints, and angels; the superstitious rites 
and ceremonies statedly practised ; and the disgraceful orgies of the cele- 
brated “‘ Holy Fire,” prove but too clearly that the Greek Church has fallen 
as far from apostolic purity as her Western sister. 

The Greek Church in Syria is divided into the two Patriarchites of An- 
tioch and Jerusalem. They are nominally independent, but virtually 
under the control of the Primate of Constantinople. ‘lhe jurisdiction of 
the Patriarch of Antioch, who usually resides at Damascus, extends from 
Asia Minor to Tyre; and includes (in Syria) the eight bishoprics of 
Beyrout, Tripoli, Akkar, Laodicia, Hamaéh, Hums, Saidnaya, and Tyre. 
The Patriarchite of Jerusalem includes the whole of Palestine, and the 
country east of the Jordan; and has under it the following bishoprics :— 
Nazareth, ’Akka (Acre), Lydda, Gaza, Sebaste, Nabulus, Philadelphia, and 
Petra. Among these the bishop of ’Akka is the only prelate who resides in 
his diocese ; all the others are in the convent at Jerusalem. The patriarch 
generally remains at Constantinople. 

The Greeks enjoy the privilege of having their religious worship conducted 
in their own language, a privilege denied to every other sect in Western 
Asia except the Greek Catholics. It is unfortunate, however, that nearly 
all the higher clergy are foreigners, and few of them learn to speak the 
Arabic language. ‘They all look to Russia as their natural protector, and 


ai — 


xliv Inhalitants. Introd. 


Russian gold is profusely expended in the erection and decoration of their 
sacred edifices, and in the support of schools. There is no college in Syria 
for the education of the Greek clergy; and the parish priests are selected 
from among the laity, with no other fitness for the sacred office than 


_ that which the ceremony of ordination confers. They mast all be married 


men, and many of them still continue their trades or ordinary occupations 
after their appointment to the priestly office. 

The Syrians, or Jacobites, originally separated from the Eastern Church, 
on account of Monophysite heresy. The Syriac language, though not now 
understood by the people, is still used in the Church services. Their ac-. 
knowledged head is the patriarch, who resides in Mesopotamia. Their 
numbers in Syria are very small. The village of Stidtid, three days’ journey 
N.E. of Damascus, may be regarded as their head-quarters. From this 
place they have sent out little colonies to Hums, and to several villages 
in the surrounding country. There are also a few families in Damascus, 
Nebk, Kuryetein, Hamah, and Aleppo. They are looked upon by all the 
other sects as heretics, and because they are few and poor they are gene- 
rally despised ; but they are a brave and industrious community. 

The Maronites.—This sect originated during the Monothelitic contro- 
versies of the 7th century. A monk, called John Maron, who died in 701, 
was the great apostle of this heresy among them, and they consequently re- 
ceived his name. In the year 1180 they renounced their Monothelitism, 
and submitted to the authority of the Pope, since which time they have 
been characterised by an almost unparalleled devotedness to the see of 
Rome. In order to increase the influence of Rome among them, a college 
was founded in that city by Gregory XIII., for the education of a select 
number of their youth, who-should afterwards return to their native land to 
occupy important stations in their church. The two celebrated Oriental 
scholars and authors, J. S. and J. A. Assemanns, were Maronites, trained 
in the College of the Holy See. 

It is somewhat remarkable, however, that a church so devoted to the 
interest of the Papacy should differ in some important points from the 
Latin ritual. The ecclesiastical language of the Maronites is wholly 
Syriac ; the name of their patron saint, Maron, is not found in the Roman 
calendar; they have their own distinct Church establishment; and every 
candidate for the priesthood, who is not already under the vow of celibacy, 
is permitted to marry before ordination. 

The Maronites are found in small communities in all the large towns 
from Aleppo to Nazareth; but they are at home in Lebanon. This moun- 
tain range they inhabit more or less throughout its whole extent, but their 
great stronghold is the district of Kesrawin. The Druzes are their here- 
ditary foes, owing chiefly to the wicked policy of the Turkish government. 
They are superior in daring and united action to the Maronites, though the 
latter have the advantage in numbers ; their community being estimated at 
220,000 souls. The patriarch is selected by the bishops, but receives his 
robe of investiture from Rome. His usual residence is the convent of Ka- 
nobin, in the romantic glen of the Kadisha, a few miles below the Cedars. 
The number of Maronite convents is greater in proportion to the people _ 
than is found in any other sect in.Christendom. Lebanon is the home of 
monkery. There are altogether 82 convents, containing about 2000 
monks and nuns, and enjoying a revenue of some 70,0000. sterling per, 


} 


Introd. . Inhabitants. xiv 


annum! The instruction of the people, and of the great body ofthe 
clergy, is as deficient as in most other Christian sects in this land. For a 
select few of both classes, a college has been established at ’Ain Warkah in 
the Kesrawan, which takes a higher stand than any other native institute 
in Syria. The Maronites are brave, independent, and industrious; and 
their native mountains, though steep and rugged, are the garden of Syria. 
But they are illiterate and superstitious, and their clergy thus exercise an 
almost unlimited sway over them both in politics and religion. 

The Papal Schismatic Churches are generally called the Greek-Catholic 


-(or Melchite) and the Syrian-Catholic. These have both sprung from the 


missionary efforts of Romish priests and Jesuits during the last two cen- 


. turies. As the object has been to gain partisans, more pains have heen 


taken to obtain nominal submission to the authority of the Pope than any 
real change of doctrine and ritual. The Greek-Catholics have their own 
Patriarch of “ Antioch and all the East,” as he is somewhat pompously 
styled, who is elected by the superior clergy. They take, indeed, the Occi- 
dental view of the procession of the Holy Spirit, believe in purgatory and 
the Pope, and eat fish in Lent; but otherwise they have been subjected to 
no change in passing from one jurisdiction to another. ‘They still retain 
their Arabic service, their Oriental calendar, their “ communion in both 
kinds,” and their married clergy. This sect embraces a large number of the 
most enterprising and wealthy Christians in Syria, and possesses considerable 
influence. Their late Patriarch Maximus was a talented politician, given 
to intrigue like all Orientals, and not over-scrupulous as to the means 
employed. The community numbers about 40,000, of whom the greater 
part are in Damascus, Aleppo, and Beyrout. 


4, Tue Jews.—A sketch of the inhabitants of Syria and Palestine could 
not be regarded as complete without a notice of the Jews. They are in one 
sense the most interesting people in the land. For 18 centuries have they 
been driven forth from the home of their fathers, and yet they cling to its 
‘‘holy places” still. They moisten the stones of Jerusalem with their 
tears ; “her very dust to them is dear,” and their most earnest wish on 
earth is that their bodies should mingle with it. The tombs that whiten 
the side of Olivet tell a tale of mournful bereavement and undying affection 
unparalleled in the world’s history. 

The Jews of Palestine are all foreigners. They have come from almost 
every country on earth to visit the graves of their forefathers, and to lay 
their dust by their side. They live almost exclusively in the four holy cities, 
Jerusalem, Hebron, Tiberias, and Safet, and their whole number does not 
exceed 9000. 

_ Altogether different from these are the Jews of Damascus and Aleppo, 
who have as good a right to the title of natives as any other of the inhabit- 
ants of Syria. They are Arabs in language, habits, and occupations, in so 
far at least as religion will permit. Some of them are men of great wealth 
and corresponding influence. For generations they have been the bankers 
of the local authorities, and have often fearfully realized all the strange 
fluctuations of Eastern life—now ruling a province, now gracing a pillory— 
at one time the all-powerful favourites, at another the disgraced and 
mutilated outcasts. The head of the chief Jewish family in Damascus 
was, in the beginning of the present century, the banker and prime minister 
c 


oe 


xlvi Inhabitants. Introd. 


of the notorious Jezzaér, Pasha of Acre. He was for a time the actual ruler 
of a large section of. Syria; but the scene soon changed. He first lost an 
eye because he was proud, then the nose: because he was handsome, and lastly 
the head because he did not please his master! The Jews of Syria number 
about 15,000 souls. 


5. Tue Turks are few in number, strangers in race and language, hated 
by every religion and class, wanting in physical power, destitute of 
moral principle, and yet they are the despots of the land. The Arabs 
have a proverb that, “‘though a Turk should compass the whole circle 
of the sciences, he would still remain a barbarian.” Those occupying the 


higher government situations in Syria are Turks, almost to a man. They | 


obtain their power by bribery, and they exercise it for extortion and oppres- 
sion. The character of the Turks has been ably sketched by Hamilton :— 
‘¢ They are all ignorant and presumptuous, vain and bigoted, proud without 
any feeling of honour, and cringing without humility ; they cannot resist the 
temptation of money or the prospective benefit of a lie. In their govern- 
ment and administrative duties they are tyrannical and overbearing, in 
their religious doctrines dogmatical and intolerant, and in their fiscal 
measures mercenary and arbitrary. They are as ignorant of their own 


history as of that of other nations; and this is the case even with the better 


educated, who are'in most respects far inferior in character, probity, and ho- 
nour to the peasants and lower classes. .......... Aslong as the Turk is 
poor, and removed from temptation, he is honest; but no sooner is he 
appointed to office, or obtains the management of public money, than his 
uneducated mind is unable to withstand the charm, and he becomes a pecu- 
lator and a thief. He appropriates to himself whatever he can.lay hands 
on, and oppresses those below him ; while, for the sake of securing his ill- 


gotten plunder, he propitiates his superiors by bribery and adulation. This 


has undoubtedly led 1o the demoralizing practice of the Turkish government 
of selling all places to the highest bidder, allowing him, in return, to make 
the most he can out of the unprotected subjects by extortion and taxation.” 
Whatever we may think of Mr. Hamilton’s English, there cannot be a 
doubt as to the accuracy of his opinions. The Turkish rulers of Syria are 
here drawn to the life. Every pasha, in coming to the country, knows that 
his term of office must be short, and therefore his gains must be large. The 
country has thus been robbed of its wealth, and a tax imposed on industry 
and enterprise. The influence of British consuls has of late years put 
some check on this system of spoliation; and it is to be hoped that the 
recent reforms in the laws of the empire may sdve Syria from ruin. 


One thing will not fail to strike the observant Englishman in Syria, and 
that is, that patriotism is unknown. There is not a man in the country, 
whether Turk or Arab, Mohammedan or Christian, who would give a para 
to save the empire from ruin; that is, if he be not in government pay, in 
which case of course his salary and the empire would go together. The 
patriotism of the Syrian is confined to the four walls of his own house ; any- 
thing beyond them does not concern him—-selfishness reigns supreme. The 
consequence is, that there is not a road in the whole country ; the streets of 
the great cities and villages are in winter all but impassable, and in summer 
reeking with the stench of dead dogs and cats and other abominations. Dogs 


+% 


Introd. Climate. — xivii 


are the only scavengers ; anything which is too corrupt or filthy for them to 
eat, rots where it lies. It sometimes happens that a roué pasha takes a 
pious fit, and spends a tithe of his ill-got gains in building a bridge or 
adorning a mosk, to smooth his way to paradise; but the moment the work 
is finished the process of dilapidation begins, and nobody ever dreams of 
repairs. One.would imagine, in traversing Syria, that the whole country 
had recently been shaken to its centre by some fearful earthquake, there 
are so many broken bridges, ruinous mosks, and roofless caravansaries. It 
is emphatically a land of ruins, and ruins are increasing in number every 
year. 

The following works may be consulted on the inhabitants of Syria :— 

For the Mohammedans, their religion, manners, &c.—Sale’s Koran, Preli- 
minary Discourse; Burckhardt’s Travels in Syria, Notes on the Bedouin 
and Wahabys, Arabic Proverbs, and Travels in Arabia; Lane’s Modern 
. Egyptians ; Russell’s Natural History of Aleppo ; Porter’s Five Years in 
Damascus. 


For the Druzes—De Sacy’s Eaposé de la Religion des Druzes is still the 


best. Some information may be collected from Colonel Churchill’s Mount 
Lebanon, if the reader.has patience enough to wade through it. 

The best condensed account of the Christian sects will be found in 
Wilson’s Lands of the Bible, vol. ii., where there is a full reference to 
authorities. Statistics and general details are given in Ritter’s Palastinu 
und Syrien. 


5.—THE CLIMATE oF SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 


There is perhaps no country in the world, of the same extent, which pos- 
sesses a greater variety of climate and temperature than this. ‘The high 
altitudes along the brow of Lebanon are as cool and pleasant during the 
summer months as France or England; while the deep depressions of the 
Jordan valley, and the shores of the Dead Sea, make those regions as hot 
and debilitating as fhe plains of Southern India. The whole seaboard, 
owing to its exposure to the sun, and its being sheltered by the mountain- 
ranges behind, is very sultry; and in some places, such as Tripoli and 
Alexandretta, unhealthy. But there are other spots along the coast, such as 
Beyrout and Sueidiyah, where the soil is dry and the air pure, and these 
form excellent winter residences for invalids. The temperature and climate 
in the various parts of the interior depend on the elevation and the nature 
of the soil. Jerusalem is high and breezy; but the unclouded sun, being 
reflected from the white parched rocks around, renders it unpleasant and op- 
pressive during the day. In Palestine rain seldom falls from the end of 
April till the beginning of October, and clouds are rare. The whole country 
is thus parched; vegetation, except where streams of water flow, is 
extinguished ; and the air, during the long summer day, becomes so hot 
and dry as to render travelling unpleasant if not actually dangerous. 

In Lebanon, on the other hand, though the sun may be powerful, the air 
is fresh and balmy ; while the dense foliage of its sublime glens gives a plea- 
sant shade, and its foaming torrents diffuse an agreeable coolness even 
during the midday heat. The wanderer may thus select his noonday rest- 
ing-place, and recline for hours amid the noblest scenes of nature, beneath 
the beetling cliff, or the spreading branch, or the gray ruin—to resume his 


_ 


xlviii Clunate. Introd. - 


journey when the sun declines towards the “great sea.” The stalwart 
frames of the inhabitants of Lebanon are the best certificates of its bracing 
climate. The way in which the people digest and “thrive on” rancid oil, 
raw vegetables, and other abominations, speaks volumes for the peptic cha~ 
racter of the mountain air. The air, except where artificial irrigation is 
carried to an undue extent, is extremely dry, and malaria is almost 
unknown. 

In Palestine the autumnal rains commence about the latter end of Octo- 
ber or the beginning of November; in Lebanon they are a month earlier : 
they are usually accompanied with thunder and lightning ; they continue for 
two or three days, not constantly, but falling chiefly during the night ; for the 
two succeeding months they fall heavily at intervals. January and Febru- 
ary are the coldest months; but in Palestine frost is seldom seen, and the 
cold is not severe. Snow falls in the higher altitudes, though it is very rare 
in the low plains and along the coast. While I pen these lines in the old 
city of Damascus the snow is 8 inches deep on the terrace of my library, 
and the ice } inch thick on the fountain in my court. And yet, strange to 
say, on the western declivities of Lebanon the snow seldom whitens the 
ground at a lower elevation than 2000 ft. Rain continues to fall at inter- 
vals during the month of March; in Palestine it is very rare in April, and 
even in Lebanon and northern Syria the few showers that occur are gene- 
rally light. During the past year, however (1856), there was very heavy 
rain, accompanied with thunder, all over the region of Lebanon, extending 
to Beyrout and Damascus, on the 28th and 29th of May; but the oldest 
inhabitant had never seen the like before: it created almost as much asto- 
nishment as the thunder and rain which Samuel brought upon the Israelites 
during the time of wheat-harvest. (1 Sam. xii.) 

In the valley of the Jordan the barley-harvest becins as early as the 
middle of April, and the wheat a fortnight later. This should serve as a 
warning to travellers to avoid that “‘ hot-house” after this period. In the 
hill-country of Judw#a reaping commences about the beginning of June, 
while in Lebanon the grain is seldom ripe before the middle of that month. 
A pretty accurate index is thus given of the relative temperature of the dif- 
ferent districts. It is not easy to ascertain the exact ranges of the thermo- 
meter, as a great deal depends on the position of the instrument, and 
we have neither observatories nor meteorological societies in the country. I 
have not unfrequently seen a difference of 6° in two thermometers in the 
same house, and both in the shade. In Aleppo, according to Russell, the 
range of the thermometer is very great, sometimes descending below zero 
and rising above 100° Fahr. During a residence of more than six years in 
Damascus I have never known the thermometer fall below 23° or rise above 
95°. Of the temperature of Jerusalem I have no register, but the remarks 
of Dr. Robinson give a good general idea of it :—‘‘ During our sojourn, 
from April 14th to May 6th, the thermometer ranged at sunrise from 44° to 
64°, and at two P.M. from 60° to 79°. ‘This last degree of heat was felt 
during a sirocco, April 30th. From the 10th to the 13th of June, at Jeru- 
salem, we had at sunrise a range of from 56° to 74°, and, at two P. M., once 
86°, with a strong N.W. wind; yet the air was fine and the heat not bur- 
densome. The nights are uniformly cool, often with a heavy dew.” 
Schubert gives the average range during the hottest part of summer at 
23° to 24° Réaum., or 84° to 86° Fahr. There is little difference between 


Introd. | Best Seasons for visiting. xlix 


the summer temperature of Jerusalem and Damascus, but the latter is 
much colder in winter. 


6.—THE BEST SEASONS FOR VISITING SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 


The preceding remarks on the climate and temperature go far to enable 
each one to judge for himself in this respect. In a country where there are 
no railways, coaches, or even public roads, progress must necessarily be 
slow, and the summer’s sun and winter’s rain are alike to be avoided. Tra- 
vellers must remember, too, that there are no “snug” inns along the great 
thoroughfares of Syria, with the cheerful chamber, the well-aired bed, 
and the tempting cuisine, to make one forget the fatigues of a day’s ride, or 
to afford a pleasant asylum from the drenching rain and muddy road; 
cuisine, bed, chamber, house, everything must be carried along. Travellers 
must be like the patriarchs of old, “‘ dwellers in tents,”—that is, if they do 
not prefer a bivouac like Jacob, ‘Tent-life is very romantic; it reads well 
in a poetical traveller’s journal, and there is a real charm in it too. There 
are few who have tried it but will look back to it as to a sunny spot on the 
cloudy landscape of memory. But it requires fine weather: it is no plea- 
sant task to pitch your tent and spread your bed in mud: there is little 
romance in canvas when the rain is pouring through it. 1 would therefore 
say that winter is not the time for a Syrian tour. 

But on the other hand a coup de soleil or a Syrian fever is not an 
agreeable alternative. Next to a drenching rain, a burning unclouded sun 
is the greatest hindrance to the man who wishes to enjoy, and profit by, a 
journey in this land—for the zrvalid to encounter either is absolute madness. 
And then the total absence of rain during the summer destroys every par- 
ticle of verdure, and takes away every vestige of freshness and beauty from 
the hills and plains of Palestine. The whole landscape assumes an aspect of 
drought and barrenness that not merely renders it uninteresting, but even 
painful to look at. The language of Scripture is graphic and true—‘*'The 
heaven becomes brass, and the earth iron.” As autumn approaches the 
face of nature is still more dry and parched. The few streams and foun- 
tains fail, and the physical and animal world looks forward with longing to 
the return of refreshing showers. Summer then is not a pleasant season for 
a ‘* Pilgrimage to Palestine.” I have seen some who have braved the 
summer's heat, and I have known others who have encountered the winter’s 
storms, but I have also more than once seen the fatal effects of such impru- 
dence. The little cemeteries of Beyrout, Damascus, and Jerusalem have 
received the bones of not a few who have entered Syria in the bloom of 
youth and pride of health. 

The spring and autumn remain to the traveller, and of these he should 
take full advantage. During nearly five months in the year he can wander 
about with safety and pleasure. The autumn, perhaps, is more uniformly . 
‘‘ fair” than the spring; but then nature wants its bloom. The autumn in 
Syria is charming—nothing can surpass the balminess of the air; and 
dwellers in tents may laugh at thoughts of damp. There is no danger of 
muddy roads or swollen rivers; but I would recommend the wayfarer to 
carry a water-bottle at his saddle, for it is a thirsty season. Autumn has 
another charm: it is the vintage season; and where is the man who does 
not long to taste the grapes of “Lebanon,” and pluck the bunches o* 


1 Mode of Travel. Introd. 


‘“‘Eshcol”? Those who have spent the summer in Germany might reach 
Beyrout by the Constantinople or Smyrna steamer about the beginning of 
September; or, should they wish to visit Antioch and the north, they may 
debark at Ladikiyeh (better known in the west as Latikia), where the 
steamers touch. Alexandretta (Iskanderiin) would be more convenient, 
but the malaria of its pestilential marshes is particularly to be avoided at 
that season. Two months, or even two and a half, might be spent in jour- 
neying southward as the season advances, and the tour be completed by 
taking the steamer at Yafa for Alexandria. 

But most travellers will prefer the spring for a Syrian tour, and on the 
whole I recommend it. It has many advantages. It forms a kind of natu- 
ral sequel to the luxurious monotony of a winter on the Nile; and thus, 
perhaps, it has become, par excellence, the grand orthodox tour. Some will 
desire to traverse the peninsula of Sinai, so noble in its scenery, and so holy 
in its associations; and to pass through the rock-hewn city of Petra—to 
perform, in fact, the ‘‘ wilderness pilgrimage ”—on their way to the ‘‘ Land 
of Promise.” Such should leave Cairo about the beginning of February, as 
they will have “forty days in the desert.” This will bring them to Jeru- 
salem in the middle of March—perhaps the very best season for visiting the 
Jordan-valley, the Dead Sea, and the plain of Philistia. They will be 
ready to set out northward early in April, and may thus finish a satisfactory 
and profitable journey at Beyrout about the 20th of May. The time spent 
at each place, and the consequent length of the tour, will, of course, depend 
on the peculiar tastes and objects of each traveller. Some may wish to 
‘do ” the country, for the mere sake of “‘ doing it ;” and they can “do” it 
in much less time. Others, again, will have biblical geography, or geologi- 
cal research, or some other favourite object in view, and they will make 
their own time, But it is taken for granted that a large majority of those 
who visit this land dre attracted towards it by its classic and sacred interest. 
The scenes of Holy Writ, whose names are familiar as household words, 
they. will wish to explore ; every spot celebrated in Bible history, or haunted 
by the memory of patriarch, prophet, apostle, or of onE greater than them ~ 
all, they will want clearly pointed out, that fancy may enact the thrilling 
dramas over again on the old stage. Experience tells me that such will 
be thankful for a guide like the present, even though it lay not claim to in- 
fallibility, and that such will find the time I have indicated only too short 
to permit them to enjoy to the full the wondrous attractions of Palestine. 


7.—MopE or TRAVEL, REQUISITES FOR THE Roan, &c. 


The saddle is the only conveyance in this primitive land—at least it is the 
only one the ordinary traveller will ever think of using. It may be placed 
on horse, mule, or donkey, according to taste; but I strongly recommend a 
horse for all. Let him be carefully selected, especially for a lady. He 
ought to be strong, sure-footed, easy-paced, and somewhat spirited ; for, if 
dull at first, what may be expected after a month’s ride? A few gambols 
at the outset ought not to alarm even the nervous; a few hours’ walk will 
quiet him, and then the elastic step of the proud little barb will be found 
far less fatiguing than the leaden monotony of the heavy hack. Ladies 
should by all means try their steeds for a ride of some hours before they en- 
gage them for a long journey ; and the hint may be taken by gentlemen too. 


Introd. Mode of Travel. li 


When the day arrives for the final start, see that the same animals are pro- 
duced. Let no excuse—not even unaccountable lameness, or seizure b 
government, or death itself—impose upon you. Do not be persuaded, 
however strong the assurances, that the substitute is better than the 
original. Insist upon having the animal you engaged, and you will get 
him in the end. 

Some ladies consider a donkey more easily managed and much less for- 
midable than a horse; but those who are afraid to mount a gentle little 
Arab will scarcely enjoy a ride through Syria. The pace of the donkey may 
be thought easier at first; but after a day or two, probably even an hour or 
two, the steady walk of the homse is far less fatiguing. In passing through 
the desert of Sinai camels alone can be used ; on entering Syria they must 
be exchanged for horses. Donkeys and even horses may be brought 
through the short desert to Gaza. In an excursion to Palmyra camels 
are necessary, and then they are engaged at Damascus for that trip alone. 
Where expense is no object, horses may be taken to Palmyra. 

I would advise those who wish as much comfort and ease as possible dur- 
ing long rides to bring their own saddles with them from England. The 
English saddle is much superior to the French, but it can rarely be met 
with east of Malta. Frank saddles, or something called by that name, 
may be occasionally found in the hands of dragomen and innkeepers 
at Jerusalem, or on sale at the shops of Beyrout. To ride day after 
day on an Arab saddle, with its short stirrups and narrow seat, is absolute 
torture. 

For those unable, through age or ill health, to encounter the fatigues of a 
long journey on horseback, the easiest mode of conveyance is a light arm- 
chair, without legs (which are apt to get entangled among rocks), securely 
fastened on two long poles, like a sedan-chair. Two easy-paced mules 
attached to this machine carry the occupant with considerable comfort. A 
foot-board ought to be fastened on with straps; and an awning, something 
like a large umbrella, may be placed over it in such a way as to be easily 
moved from side to side, or taken down altogether in passing through low 
archways or beneath branches of trees. The common Tahterawén, or litter 
of the country, is not adapted to European modes of sitting. Arab ladies 
“squat,” and can thus enjoy a low seat, or no seat; but those accustomed 
to easy-chairs would scarcely relish such a position for seven or eight hours 
a-day. The tahterawaneis besides a heavy, lumbering machine, severe on 
animals, difficult to manage, and wholly unfitted for mountain paths. A 
conveyance such as I have referred to above, if properly made, is light, easy, 
and suitable to every path. It must be remembered, however, that it will 
add much to the expense of a journey, as one extra animal and two extra 
men are needed for it alone. When required it must be brought from 
England, or made to order in some of the large towns of this country. 

For the ordinary traveller in Syria a dragoman is indispensable. He fills 
the threefold office of interpreter, guide, and purveyor. It is now the general 
custom for travellers to agree with a dragoman by the day for the supply of 
all necessaries. The average rate for last year (1856-7) was about 17. 5s. 
a-head—some paid more. This includes everything—animals, servants, 
guides, guards, and bakhshish under every form and name. Wine, beer, and 
other strong drinks, are, of course, extras, to be provided by the traveller ; 
but a fair supply should be carried at the expense of the dragoman. It is 


LN 


hii Requisites for the Road. Introd. 


necessary in all cases to draw up a contract, in which every particular is 
plainly written—one copy to be given to the dragoman, and one retained by 
the traveller. It would serve no object to give lists of eatables, drinkables, 
and other et-ceteras in this place, for each one has a taste of his own as 
regards the cuisine. The curious may see a full list in the ‘ Handbook for 
Egypt.’ There are, however, a few things I would recommend the more 
fastidious, and especially ladies, to take with them for their own use; and 
I advise them also not to trust such precious commodities to the exclusive 
care of servants, whether English or Arab. 

1. Biscuits in air-tight tin cases. The khubs (Anglicé “ bread ”) of Syria, 
though tolerable at first, very soon gets hard anddry, and there are no 
means of baking except in towns. The khubs of the villages is not unlike bad 
leather. 

2. Portable soup and preserved meat for an occasional variety. Ham 
and dried tongue are also a pleasant change from bad mutton and skinny 
fowls. 

3. Macaroni, vermicelli, arrowroot, and other such articles, are excellent, 
easily carried, and easily prepared. 

4, Tea in small tin canisters. A cup of good tea, refreshing in any coun- 
try, is especially so in the evening after a long Syrian ride. Tea may be had 
in Jerusalem, Beyrout, and Damascus, but it is generally bad. 

5, White wines and good French brandy. I would caution travellers 
against the free or habitual use of either; but a little mixed with water 
may be occasionally beneficial. Ale and porter for such as wish them ; in 
Syria they are almost universally dear and bad. 

A comfortable folding iron bedstead, which can be so arranged as to form 
a sofa, with hair mattress, sheets, pillow-cases, and towels. These can be 
supplied by the dragoman; but they are often rickety and not always 
clean. A small musquito curtain to cover the face may be desirable ; but 
in tent-life, with ordinary attention, no annoyance will be experienced from 
other insects. The hotels in Jerusalem, Damascus, and Beyrout are, or 
ought to be, perfectly free from all disagreeable intruders. 

Instruments, Arms, &c.—The beaten tracts of Palestine—almost the 
only paths the ordinary traveller ever thinks of following—are now so well 
known that sextants, compasses, and barometers may be altogether dispensed 
with. Scarcely anything can be added to the large stock of general infor- 
mation by casual or cursory observations. I speak not, of course, of the 
professedly scientific traveller. I shall shortly call his attention to objects 


‘of interest and importance, to which he may advantageously devote his 


time. But it has become customary for the mere tourist to cumber himself 
with thermometers, pocket-compasses, and aneroids; and some poetical 
authors of popular ‘‘ sketches ” have soberly entered them upon the lists of 
necessaries, as if they themselves had experienced the advantage of them. 
It is enough to say here, that it requires much care and some experience to 
use efficiently the simplest instruments; and that a vast majority of the 
meteorological and geographical observations made even by learned and ac- 
complished men have been found wholly useless, It isonly when really new 
ground is entered upon that careful descriptions become valuable; and notes 
of distances, with angles, add to our geographical knowledge. Those who 
intend entering such fields should make due preparation beforehand. 

The artist, however, will never want objects for his pencil, nor the poet 


A = = 
~. 


Introd. Requisites for the Road. lili 


for his pen, amid Syrian life and scenery. The hallowed scenes of Bible his- 
tory can never be too fully or too faithfully delineated, either on canvas or 
on the printed page. Every nook and corner of Palestine ought now to be 
made familiar to us as the home of our childhood, whether portrayed by 
their own bright sun, or by the magic touch of the pencil. Let artist and 
photographist continue their praiseworthy labours, till every hill and every 
vale, every proud column and every prostrate wall, that has a story in it, is 
carried away to the far west. The costumes of the people, their houses and 
utensils, their implements of husbandry and weapons of war, are all inte- 
resting, as all tend to throw fresh light on ancient history. 

Every traveller should have his note-book and pencils to record incidents 
and describe scenes to which memory will look back with fond pleasure in 
after years. Descriptions written on the spot will ‘‘ photograph ” scenes 
and events on the mind. As to the propriety of publishing I say nothing. 
Every one must exercise his own good taste and wisdom in that respect. 
But a * journal” has a real and absorbing interest, apart from all thought of 
Albemarle Street or Paternoster Row. 

In addition to his note-book, I recommend every traveller to take with 
him a good double “race-glass,” such as is made by Chevalier of Paris. 
It is far preferable to the long telescope, as it gives a larger and clearer 
field, and is more easily used. A measuring-tape may be found useful by 
the curious. 

The roads of Syria are not always safe or free from prowling bandits. A 
small ‘‘Dean and Adams” revolver may, therefore, prove a useful tra- 
velling companion by times. It should be worn in a leather belt so as to be 
visible, especially when the traveller sees fit to indulge in solitary rides or 
walks. The rubbers of Syria are generally amateurs, who take up the pro- 
fession when favourable opportunity offers. They will seldom venture on a 
party of Franks if there be any show of arms among them: but a few pea- 
sants, when they meet a timid traveller, will first beg, then demand, and 
finally take a dakhshish. By cool self-possession and a determined manner 
one can generally overawe them. There should be no blustering or hurry 
in such cases, for noise seems to rouse an Arab’s “‘ pluck ;” but the traveller 
should be careful to show all whom it may concern, by the ease and dignity 
of his bearing, that, while he may enjoy a joke, it would scarcely be safe to trifle 
with him. The peasants of Palestine are almost all armed, so that men of 
peace have a warlike aspect ; yet the instances are very rare indeed in which 
they have used their arms upon Franks. In times of political excitement or 
local feuds it may be always well to take a guard from the village chief or 
district governor—not that the strength of the escort will do much to drive 
away an enemy, but one thus secures a friend or two among the bandits 
themselves. , 

In visiting some of the less frequented districts an escort is absolutely ne- 
cessary. In engaging them it should be clearly understood that they are 
really able to afford sufficient protection. As a general rule the escort 
should be composed of members of that tribe to which the country we 
propose to visit belongs. Even friendly tribes have no right to conduct 
strangers through the territories of others. It not unfrequently happens 
that adventurous chiefs will undertake such a task, and, for the sake of the 
pay, run the risk of a sound drubbing, if not worse. When an attack is 
made under such circumstances, and especially if it be by the regular 


liv Requisites for the Road. Introd. 


Bedawin of the desert, no attempt at resistance should..ever be made. 
Leave the matter wholly to your escort, and act as if you had no interest 
in it whatever. It will be well to explain to the enemy that you had no in- 
tention of breaking the well-known laws of desert life; that you had engaged 
a sheikh to escort you under the impression he was the proper person; that 
he had become guarantee for your safety ; and now it was his affair, not 
yours, if he had trespassed on the territory of others. A calm and concili- 
atory bearing, aided tn the end by a small present, will in nine cases out of 
ten clear away all difficulties. | 

Medicines.—The pure air, bracing exercise, and necessarily plain cuisine of 
a Syrian tour, enable most people to throw pills and potions to the winds, 
and a regular medicine-chest thus becomes a mere honorary appendage. 
Some travellers, however, have suffered severely from boils, and not a few 
from diarrhoa. The former, a medical friend has suggested, might arise 
from the too free use of the Turkish bath. Jt is highly probable that the 
kneading, twisting, pulling, and scrubbing to which many think it neces- 
sary to submit, may have the effect of irritating the cuticle and weakening 
the frame ; and this, joined to a change of food and climate, may induce boils. 
One thing I know, that during a seven years’ residence I have never but once 
entered a Turkish bath, and I have never had a boil; while others, who 
thought it necessary to go through the operation almost immediately after 
their arrival in the country, have been afflicted with boils at intervals 
for years. Whether this be cause and effect is a question for the “‘ faculty.” 
If poetical travellers must have a bath, let it be in moderation—let them be 
deluged with hot water and scented soap ad libitum, but let them dis- 
pense with the “torture process,” and perhaps they may thus escape the 
plague of boils. 

Diarrhoea is generally caused by exposure to the direct rays of the sun, 
and occasionally by the use of green fruit and acid drinks. The sun, of 
course, cannot be avoided; but every care should be taken to protect the 
head, shoulders, and whole person from its influence. The proper clothing 
for a Syrian tour I shall afterwards specify, but I may observe here that 
flannel ought always to be worn, with thick woollen clothes over it, of light 
colour. Long experience has proved to me that these are the best defences 
against the sun of Syria. = - 

For diarrhoea the following treatment may be adopted :— 

First, an ‘‘ aperient ”—say 

Calomel, 2 or 3 grains. 
Rhubarb, 15 ditto. 
Magnesia, a large teaspoonful. 
To be taken at night, When this has freely operated (and if-it do not, the 


rhubarb and magnesia should be repeated in the morning), take an occa- 
sional dose of the following mixture till the diarrhea stops :— 


Tincture of rhubarb 
Tincture of catechu ' equal parts. 


Add, oil of cinnamon 1 drop to each drachm of the compound. Dose, 4 to 
1 drachm. A few drops of landanum may be added to each dose. — 


In this climate great caution ought to be used in taking large or frequent 
doses of calomel or opiates. They should never be resorted to except under 


Introd. Hints on Language. lv 


skilful medical advice. If the traveller adds to a supply of the medicines 
above mentioned a small quantity of each of the following, he will find him- 
self abundantly provided :— 


1. Sulphate of quinine. 
2. Cream of tartar. 

3. Sugar of lead. 

4, Sulphate of zinc. 


The two last are invaluable in case of ophthalmia or any temporary inflam- 
mation of the eyes. Some sticking-plaster and lint may be added to the 
little stock. 

A spring tour in Syria is to the invalid an admirable sequel to a winter 
in Egypt. The soft and balmy air of the desert, with its cool nights and 
bracing mornings, gradually prepares him for a return to more northern 
climes. The noble scenery of the Sinai peninsula, with its holy associations, 
occasions sufficient excitement to release the physical frame from the 
depressing influence of melancholy. Then follow the rough rides over 
Syrian mountains; the constant variety of scene; the engrossing interest of 
place—all rose-tinted by a strong dash of danger and romance, that vastly 
enhances theircharms, And more than the invalid might reap lasting benefit 
from such a ramble. The city merchant who has been cramped up for 
years within the dingy confines of a counting-house, and who has grown 
dyspeptic and gouty on London fog and turtle-soup; the ‘“‘ West-end ” poli- 
ticlan, whose physical man has been dried up by late ‘‘ Houses,” later 
assemblies, and the harassing cares of party ;—these, if they wish again to 
know what life and liberty are, should try a tour in Syria. After the 
murky magnificence of the London house, or the solemn splendour of the 
country mansion or baronial hall, Syria would be a new world. The pure 
air from morning till night and from night till morning; the constant 
exercise ; the excitement of novel scenes and novel circumstances ; the total 
relief of thought; and the relaxation of overstrained mental powers—all 
tend to make a new physical man, while they contribute in no small degree 
to give a healthy tone to the intellect. Great minds, like great libraries, 
are apt to collect dust and cobwebs, and an occasional thorough “ cleaning 
out” makes reference more agreeable. 


8.—Hints on LancuaGe,—DreEss,—ConbDvuct. 


The language of the country is Arabic. It is spoken by the higher classes, 
especially in the large towns, with considerable purity ; and it is a noble 
language. The people at large are ignorant of any other tongue. Turkish 
is the official language, because the pashas and higher government officials 
are universally Turks. Turkish also is spoken in many of the villages 
around Aleppo and towards the borders of Asia Minor. Syriac, the ancient 
language of the country, is now almost completely extinct. In all Syria 
there remain only three small villages in which it is still the vernacular ; 
these are M’alila, ’Ain et-Tineh, and Bitkh’a, on the eastern declivities of 
Anti-Lebanon. Syriac, however, is still the ecclesiastical language of the 
Maronite and Jacobite Churches. _ 

As an interpreter is absolutely necessary to the Syrian traveller, it is use- 
less to burden a Handbook with a collection of words and phrases, Indeed, 


Ivi Fiints on Dress and Conduct. Introd. 


were such a collection spread before my readers, not one in fifty of them 
could pronounce the words intelligibly. Many of the Arabic letters have 
no equivalents in European alphabets, and the attempt to represent Arabic 
sounds by English letters may be considered labour in vain, The man who 
wishes to learn even a little Arabic had better begin with the alphabet, 
instead of blundering over half-a-dozen English consonants, by which some 
attempt to express a simple sound. The names of simple necessaries are 
easily picked up from hearing them; for all other things the best way is to 
apply to the dragoman. All the large towns in the traveller’s route swarm 
with polyglott dragomen. They are rogues of course ; and it must be con- 
fessed that a profusion of English gold, scattered among them with no 
sparing hand by a succession of Milordos, has not improved their morals. 
They look upon travellers, especially English travellers, as so many well- 
podged geese, which it is the bounden duty of every sharp-witted Arab to 
** pluck.’ 

 Dress.—In selecting a suitable dress for Syria the mode of locomotion 
should be first considered. The saddle is the only conveyance; a com- 
fortable riding dress is, therefore, the best for ordinary wear. Every 
English gentleman knows that “tights” of strong cord, or close-fitting 
pantaloons of heavy tweed, with long boots drawn over them, enable one to 
bear rough rides with far more ease. Perhaps, if the parts next the saddle 
were covered with soft leather, like those of the Horse Guards, they would 
be still more comfortable and more durable—an important consideration in 
along tour. The coat ought to be short and made of substantial light- 
coloured tweed, or shepherd’s plaid. It is a great mistake to wear linen, 
or any other thin material. The body is thus exposed to the direct rays 
of the sun; the skin becomes dry, perspiration is checked, and fever or 
diarrhoea is the result. Woollen cloth is a non-conductor, and, when we 
are protected by it, the sun’s rays fall harmless. The best hat is the broad- 
brimmed white or drab “felt.” The crown may be thickly padded inter- 
nally with cotton, and five or six folds of white muslin or calico may be 
advantageously wound round the exterior. Lightness and protection from 
the sun are the grand requisites. A pair of drab leather gloves, and wire 
*‘ goggles ” with fronts of green glass, will complete the costume. Many 
throw over the whole a white Arab barnfis of very thin material, and this 
affords additional protection against both heat and dust. 

To adopt the native costume when one is not only ignorant of the lan- 
guage, but unable to conform to the mode of salutation, sitting, walking, 
and riding of the people, is just an effectual way of rendering oneself ridi- 
culous. It affords an excuse, too, for liberties and remarks which most 
people will wish to avoid. A calm and dignified bearing, with a neat 
simple style of dress, always commands respect in Syria with every class. 
But any attempt at semi-Bedawy, Grand Turk, or fancy-ball extra- 
vagances, will not fail to excite a smile among the sober Orientals ; or, 
what is worse, it may occasion grievous mistakes as to nationality. In the 
cities of Syria, as in those of Europe, the plain dress of an English gentle- 
man is by far the best for all visits of ceremony, whether made to native 
dignitaries or to British residents. The only variation requisite is a pair 
of over-shoes, to be taken off at the door of the chamber, or on the marble 
pavement, before stepping upon the dais of a Mohammedan of rank. His 
carpet is holy,—to be touched with forehead and lips at the hours of 


e 
. 


so, 


Introd. Passports. lvii 


) 


prayer,—and must not be polluted by boots that have trodden the dust of 
the streets. 

_ Another remark I may be allowed. It is not very dignified to see an 
English gentleman perched, @ la tailleur, on the diminutive counter of a 
Damascus shopkeeper, whiffing his dirty nargély, or greasy chibouk. Such 
easy familiarity will accomplish no good end. On the other hand, the 
traveller should study to be courteous and polite to all; and to be kind, 
though firm, in his dealings with servants, muleteers, and guides. Brow- 
beating may compel submission for a time, but will never secure that 
respect and wholesome deference which are so essential to the peace and 
pleasure of a Syrian tour. Above all, keep the dragoman in his place. 
You can never expect a moment’s comfort if you give him the “upper 
hand” in anything. In all intercourse with the Bedawin, whether in 
traversing the peninsula of Sinai, wandering among the mountains of 
Edom, or sweeping over the deserts of Palmyra, a calm, manly, courteous 
bearing is especially requisite. The wild tribes are apt to play upon the 
fears of timid travellers; and no lack of ‘‘ scenes,” and even “ threats,” will 
be extemporized to accomplish their desired object. Let the traveller show 
that he has good sense enough to smile at the one, and courage enough to 
despise the other, and he will almost universally gain his object. 

Another observation I shall make, even at the risk of being accused of 
going somewhat beyond my province. Mr. Ford has well remarked in his 
admirable ‘ Handbook for Spain’ that ‘“‘the English are thought to have 
no faith at all—to believe neither in the Pope nor Mahomet, but in gold and 
cotton alone ; nor is this to be wondered at in Spain, where they have no 
ostensible religion, no churches or churchyards, no Sundays or service, 
except as a rare chance at a seaport in some consul’s parlour. Being rich, 
however, and strong, they escape the contumely poured out in Spain on 
poor and weak heretics, and their cash is respected as eminently Catholic.” 
This is little to the credit of either Englishmen or Protestantism. Those 
can scarcely afford to smile at the absurdities of Romanism, who lay them- 
selves open to the charge of atheism. It is unfortunately the fact that 
English travellers have gained for themselves the same name in Syria as 
in Spain. They despise the fasts and feasts of Muslems and Christians ; 
but they at least seem equally to despise the Sundays and services of their’ 
own church. The gentleman who would feel shocked at the bare idea of 
employing his labourers or workmen on the Sunday in his own country, does 
not scruple systematically to employ his muleteers or his guides on that 
day in Syria. It would add greatly to the respect which the English name 
inspires, if Englishmen were more careful to carry with them into foreign 
lands both the spirit and the form of that faith which is the pride and 
glory of their country ; and it would tend to remove from them a grievous 
reproach if they would be always careful to distinguish between the liberty 
of the Gospel and the licence of infidelity. 


9. Passports-——CustoM-HoUsEs—PosT-OFFICE—MoneEy, &o. 


Passports are not necessary for Syria itself. Turkish officials never de- 
mand them ; but the agents of French and Austrian steamers require them 
before a berth can be secured for any foreign port. Firmans, or Boyyu- 
ruldies, are of little or no use, They can now neither secure respect nor 


Mii Custom-house— Post-office— Money. Introd. , 


command attention to wants, except in very rare cases. English gold is 
the best passport in Syria—more powerful than all the orders of Sultan or 
Pasha. It opens every door, save those of the mosks; and ere long they 
too will yield to the golden key. . 

The Custom-house, so far as travellers are concerned, is a mere name by 
which to introduce the word bakhshésh. All articles for the private use of 
travellers pass free by treaty. The right claimed by the officials to open 
and examine is thus a mere form, which can be easily avoided by a small 
present. Dragomen generally manage the affair by giving jive piastres to 
the officer, and charging twenty to their master. 

The Post-office in Syria is yet in its infancy. There are weekly mails 
between Jerusalem and Beyrout, performing the distance in about four 
days ; there is a bi-weekly post between Damascus and Beyrout, taking 
about 22 hours in fine weather, but occasionally a fortnight in winter ; 
and there is a weekly Tartar from Damascus to Hums, Hamah, Aleppo, 
and Constantinople—making the whole distance in 12 days. He leaves on 
Wednesday. All letters by these routes must be addressed in Arabic or 
Turkish, and prepaid. The Turkish posts have no connection with those | 
of any other country ; and consequently letters for foreign countries must 
be sent either through the consuls, or the post agents of those countries 
resident at the seaports. There is no English mail to Syria, but the 
French mail-steamers carry closed bags from the consulates to Alexandria. 
Letters sent in this way must be handed to the consuls, and cannot be pre- 
paid. The French postal arrangement is quick and safe, though frequently 
altered. At present mail-steamers run every fortnight from the coast of 
Syria both to Alexandria and Constantinople. They touch at Alex- 
andretta, Latikia, Tripoli, Beyrout, and Yafa; and at any of these ports 
letters can be posted (prepaid or not) to Italy, France, England, or America. 
The postage to England is as follows :— 

Fr. Cent. 
Not exceeding40z. .. .. O 60 r 
| 9 Roz... .« 1 20 ‘ 
and 80 on. 

Those wishing to forward letters to England from the interior of the 
country must enclose them to some banker or merchant at a seaport. 

A courier carries a letter-bag from the English consulate at Damascus 
to meet the French steamer at Beyrout on its way to Alexandria ; and on 
the arrival of the mail from Alexandria he returns to Damascus with | 
letters and despatches. Connected with this courier is another who crosses 
the desert to and from Baghdad on a dromedary in from eight to ten days. 
The latter is in the pay of the English consulate at Baghdad. 

Austrian steamers also carry mails at intervals of 15 days from Beyrout 
to Smyrna, Constantinople, Germany, and England. Travellersshould always « 
inquire at the British consulates or agencies the time of the departure of the | 
mails. Letters forwarded from England to travellers in Syria ought to be 
addressed to the care of the consuls at Beyrout, Jerusalem, Aleppo, or 
Damascus ; or else to the care of a merchant or banker. 

Money.—Circular notes are the safest and most convenient for small 
sums. Bills in “sets” are safer where a largé amount is required in one |! 
draft. Travellers are recommended to negotiate as few as possible at Jeru- 
salem or Damascus, where low exchange and high commission are the 


“ev 


Of! 


NN. 
N 


Introd. Money. lix N 


order of the day. Beyrout is the best place for obtaining supplies of cash, 
for there there is a branch of the Ottoman Bank, besides two English mer- 
cantile firms of the very highest respectability—Messrs. William and 
Robert Black and Co., and Mr. Heald. : 

To no coin in the world can the appellation of “filthy lucre” be more 
aptly applied than to that of Turkey. And filthy as it is, there is not half 
enough of it to supply the wants of the country. The consequence is, that 
the gold and silver of nearly every nation in Europe is now current in 
Syria. The Turkish piastre, worth about 2d. sterling, is the standard by 
which all others are valued. There is no permanent fixed value, however, 
for any coin; and even in different localities coins have different nominal 
values. This is perplexing to the traveller, and still more so to the mer- 
chant and banker; but it must be endured till the government becomes 
rich enough and enterprising enough to strike a sufficient coinage of its 
own. 

The coins most commonly met with are the following; and the values 
attached to them in piastres (Arab. ghrish, sin. ghérsh) and paras (Arab. 
miséreh, sin. misariyeh) may serve as a general guide, though they will 
not apply accurately in every place. 


TURKISH COINS, FOREIGN COINS, 

Gold. Gold. 
Piast. Par. Piast. Par. 
Lira wg we we Swe Swe 108 «220 | Sovereign .. ww ww) ww 117) 20 
Half lira oo ee we Swe: (CA «6d10 =| s«Halfditto «2. ww Cw. CO.CC) O80 
Ghazeh’.. .. « « « 22 0} Napoleon .. .. 1. .. 93 20 
Half Ghézeh .. .. .. . ll =O | Halfditto .. .. .. .. 46 30 
; Russian ruble oo oe Clee CU 9H—CiCOD 
Silver. Austrian ducat .. .. .. 55 80 

Mejideh.. .. .. «© « 22 O 

Half ditto .. .. . .« IL 0O Silver. 

Quarter ditto.. .. .. .. $5 20 | Spanish dollar .. .. .. 26 0 


5-franc piece... .. .. «. 28 30 


Base Metal. Austrian dollar ..  .. .. 25 30 
Beshlik .. ... of « « & OO | Silverruble.. .. 1.2. .. 19 =O 
Half ditto 2 20 
Ghérsh .. 1 0O 
Kamiry.. 0 20 


The best and most convenient coin for Syria is the sovereign or napoleon 
in gold, and the Spanish dollar or 5-franc piece in silver. They are 
well known and pass freely everywhere. Turkish gold and silver are 
equally good, of course, if they can be had. The ghdzeh is an old coin, and 
generally light in weight. It must be remembered, however, that in villages 
it is often difficult to get a gold piece changed; the traveller should thus 
be supplied with a sufficient stock of piastres and other small coins for the 
purchase of necessaries and for bakhshish. The kamary (plural, kdmaridt) 
is a black, greasy, wretched-looking piece of base metal, somewhat broader 
and thinner than an English sixpence. It is a most useful coin, however, 
as it constitutes the ‘“‘ change” of the country, is of small value (one penny 
sterling), and “ goes far”’ in the way of presents. It should be remembered 


Ix What to observe. Introd. 


that Turkish coins of every kind have a nominal value much higher than 
their intrinsic value, and do not, therefore, pass in other countries. 


10.—WHAT TO OBSERVE IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 


Every traveller has his peculiar tastes, and according to these will he 
estimate the importance and interest of the many objects that excite at- 
tention in this land. There are the geographer, the historian, the archzolo- 
gist, the theologian, the naturalist, the politician, the ethnologist—each of 
whom will investigate his own branch. And it is well there is such 
diversity ; for division of labour in scientific pursuits, as in the arts, contri- 
butes to the perfection of each part. Notwithstanding all that has been 
written on Syria, much remains to be done to make the country known as it 
ought to be. I shall here mention a few things to which the attention of 
such as have the taste and time for research might be usefully directed, 

1. Ascertain by accurate astronomical observations the latitude and 
longitude of important towns and ancient sites along the eastern border of 
the country and towards the north,—such as Petra, Kerak, Rabba, Hesb4n, 
Amman, Jerash, Busrah, Damascus, Ba’albek, Hums, Hamah, Apamea, Pal- 
myra, &c. There has as yet been no trigonometrical survey of the interior, 
but the country west of the Jordan has now been almost as fully explored 
as is possible without such a survey. Much is still wanting eastward 
and northward, and the discovery of the true position of any prominent site 
would be an important addition to geography. 

2. Examine carefully inscriptions in the Sinaitic character wherever 
found, and copy them accurately. Copy all inscriptions, in whatever lan- 
guage, previously unknown. In the deserted towns and villages of ancient 
Bashan they are very numerous, Sinaitic inscriptions have been found in 
great numbers in the desert plain of Harrah, 2 days’ journey E. by N. of 
Jebel Haurfn. 

8. Excavate some of the artificial mounds in the plains of Damascus, 
Buké’a, and Hums, and in the valley of the Orontes. 

4. Make a geological survey of the shores of the Dead Sea, chiefly with 
a view to the discovery of all traces of recent volcanic action. 

5. Excavate the sites of Tyre, Sidon, Gebal, and Aradus, as far as 
practicable, for remains of Phcenician art and inscriptions. - The recent 
discovery of sarcophagi at Sidon may serve as a sufficient stimulant to this 
work. 

6. Excavate and examine the subterranean tombs of Palmyra, and copy 
the Palmyrene inscriptions. 

B 7. Explore the country east of the mountains of Moab and plain of 
ashan. 

The mosks of Syria are worthy of the artist’s attention, and perhaps also 
the architect’s. Many of the older ones are patched-up temples and 
churches, redecorated with lying inscriptions, calculated to flatter the vanity 
of the Arab; but some are beautiful specimens of pure Saracenic art. Their 
fretted minarets, inlaid walls, deeply-recessed doorways, marble courts, 
and arabesqued interiors, are all models of airy elezance—graceful and fan- 
tastic as an Arab poet’s dream. The best specimens are, like Moham- 
medanism itself, rapidly decaying. Damascus is peculiarly rich in such 
buildings—relics of the golden age of Islam, long since passed. 


af 


~ 


Introd. Skeleton Tours. lxi 


11.—SKELETON Tous. 


Every traveller has, or is supposed to have, some specific object in view 
in making a “ pilgrimage to Palestine.” One is in pursuit. of health ; 
another of pleasure; another of fame; another of knowledge; another of 
adventure ; while not a few travel for the mere sake of travel—to satisfy 
a restless and “‘ truant disposition.” Every one will select the route most 
suitable to his tastes and objects. I shall therefore sketch in outline a few 


‘tours, specifying the things worthy of notice and the time necessary for 


making them. More full particulars of the several localities will be given 
in the sequel, and to these the traveller may refer, guided by the Index, 
after selecting the route he purposes to follow. 


i—The Grond Tour suttabdle for all. 


Leave Cairo in the beginning of February, proceed to Suez and Sinai. 
The Sinaitic inscriptions, the sculptures of Surabit el-Khadim, the sacred 
associations of Jebel Misa, will call attention and relieve the monotony of 
the great and terrible desert. Sinai to ’Akabah, and thence to Petra, 
thence to Hebron by the southern route of Beersheba, or the northern 
through the Wady ’Arabah to the shores of the Dead Sea. Arrive in 
Jerusalem about the middle of March. Spend 20 days around the Holy 
City, in excursions to the Jordan, to Bethlehem, to Anathoth, Geba, and 
Ramah; or to Philistia. Set out northward early in April, taking the 
course by Bethel and Shiloh to Shechem and Samaria. Here turn west to 
Ceesarea on the coast; then north along the shore to Carmel and Acre; then 
east again to Nazareth; from whence a delightful day’s excursion can be 
made to Jezreel, Shunem, Nain, Endor, and Tabor. From Tabor go to 
Tiberias ; then north by Capernaum, Tell Ham, Safed, and Kedesh, to 
Dan, Baniés, and Damascus. From Damascus to Ba’albek; the road 
is seldom open at this season to the Cedars, and the traveller may turn 
southwards down the valley of Colesyria to Chalcis, to the upper foun- 
tain of the Jordan at Hasbeiya ; then west through the magnificent scenery 
of southern Lebanon to Kulat esh-Shukif (Belfort) and Tyre. Thence 
along the coast to Sidon and Beyrout, where he may arrive about the 
middle of May. 


iii—Tour through Northern Syria. 


This tour presents many objects of interest, deserving the attention of the 
historian and geographer. It embraces the chief part of the ancient king- 
dom of the Seleucide. It may be undertaken either during the months 
of April and May, or September and October. Beyrout forms the best 
starting-point, as there dragoman and travelling requisites are easily - 
procured. Proceed northward along the coast; examine in passing the 
rock-sculptures of the Dog River (Nahr el-Kelb) and the remains of the 
Pheenician Gebal or Byblus, also those of Botrys and Tripoli. . The next 
point is the island of Ruad (Aradus), an early- Phoenician colony ; then 
Ladikiyeh, the Laodicia ad mare of the Seleucidse, Mount Casius, the © 
excavated harbour of Seleucia near the mouth of the Orontes, and the 
mount of St. Symon. Here turn eastward up the Orontes to the classic 

[Syria and Palestine. ] d 


Lx Skeleton Tours. Introd. 


fountains of Daphne, and the crumbling walls of imperial Antioch. 
Thence, if historic fervour burn strong enough, cross the wild Amanus 
ridge to Iskanderfn, and survey the plain of Issus, on which ‘* Macedonia’s 
madman” triumphed. Re-cross the range to Aleppo; thence strike 
south-west to the valley of the Orontes, viewing en route el-Baira, Apamea, 
Ham&h, Hums, Riblah, and the curious lonely monument of Hitrmitl. 
The traveller may now proceed down the great valley of Ccelesyria to 
Ba’albek, and cross Anti-Lebanon to Damascus; or, what is better fitted 
to complete the “‘ Northern Tour,” he may turn round the north end of 
Lebanon, visit the castle of el-Husn, and follow the Tripoli road till he can 
ascend the western acclivities of Lebanon towards the sublime glen of the 
Kadisha, with the cedars at its head; and thence proceed by Afka, at the 
fountain of the river Adonis, and the sources of the Dog River, to Beyrout. 
This tour would occupy from 40 to 50 days, and would form an excellent 
autumn excursion preparatory to a winter on the Nile, and the “Grand 
Tour” through Palestine in spring. 

The scientific traveller should carry with him compass and sextant, with 


an “‘aneroid ” for heights. Accurate itineraries, angles, and a few latitudes - 


would here be of great value. Inscriptions should be copied, and plans 
made of the larger towns. Except during times of civil war, this region is 
almost as safe as any other in the land. Guards might occasionally be 
needed ; but they would also act as guides. ‘The artist should have his 
sketch-book always at hand. 


itii—Lastern Exploring Tour. 


This tour is important in an antiquarian and geographical point of view; 
and until Syria is completely remodelled, it will always have a dash of ad- 
venture about it sufficient to recommend it to not a few. An escort will 
be requisite, in some places from the great ’Anazeh tribe of Bedawin, 
and in others from the warlike Druzes of the Hauran. Spring is the 
season for it, for then the tents and flocks of the Bedawin cover the whole 
region. Damascus must be the starting-point, where alone a sheikh of 
sufficient influence may be found to act as guide. The greater part of the 
journey must be made on camels, without tents or other luxuries. 

Set out from Damascus due east, along the green banks of the Barada 
pass between the lakes to the ruins beyond; then to the group of hills 
called Tellal; thence to the Saf&h. Visit the remarkable ruined towns or 
its eastern border. Proceed 8.E. to the Harrah; copy all Sinaitic and other 
inscriptions, Turn W. to Jebel Haurfn ; explore the ruined and deserted 
towns along the northern and eastern declivities, and in the great plain 
eastward and southward, returning by Um el-Jemal (Bethgamul). The 
tour may be finished by an excursion through the Hauran and Jaulan, 
where there is still much to be done. 

From 40 to 50 days thus spent would materially advance our knowledge 
of the borders of Arabia and Syria; it would also enable the traveller to 
illustrate still more than Burckhardt has done the manners and customs of 
the most celebrated tribe of Bedawin, the ’Anazeh. To explore the Safah 
and the Harrah would repay a 40 days’ journey. Here is a district encom- 
passed by an uninhabited waste, wholly inaccessible except to the Bedawin 
and those who journey under their protection. The Safah is a great natural 


< 


~ 


Introd. Skeleton Tours. lxiii 


fortress, thickly covered with huge shattered masses of basalt, the paths 
through which are tortuous fissures, known only to the wild race who inhabit 
it. In the interior is a range of volcanic tells, on the E. side of which are 
several ruined towns and villages. By whom were they built, and when were 
they inhabited? The desert tribes who have had undisputed possession for 
at least 1200 years are not given to architecture, and never were. Since 
Ishmael’s days the Bett Sh’ar (hair house) has been their home; and their 
pride and boast is, and has been, freedom to wander at will, wherever 
fountaizis bubble, and pastures clothe the plain. It is questionable whether 
the sway of the Greeks or Romans ever extended so far into the desert ; or 
at least was ever so secure as to give encouragement to the planting of 
colonies and the building of towns. It would be interesting to know more 
of the character and style of these ruins, which appear to resemble those 
structures of a primitive age still found amid the mountains of Bashan. 
see Route 34. 


iv.— Tour for the Pilgrim. 


There are places in this land of surpassing interest to him who wishes to 
have his thoughts solemnized and his faith strengthened by a view of those 
scenes where the most sacred events of our common Christianity were 
enacted. Such will love to wander and meditate, in silence and alone, 
where patriarchs lived and died, where prophets received their commissions 
direct from heaven, where apostles heard words of life and peace from the - 
lips of their incarnate God. Almost every town and village of Palestine 
is consecrated ; but it may be well here shortly to sketch the most im- 
portant, which can be easily embraced even in a hurried journey. 

Sinai will naturally form the pilgrim’s first goal; and while wandering 
on toward the “ Holy Mount,” surrounded by arid desolation, exposed to 
the direct and reflected rays of an unclouded sun, with parched lips and — 
throbbing temples, the pilgrim can realize the feelings of the weary multi- 
tude, when they cried to Moses, ‘‘ Wherefore is it that thou hast brought 
us up out of Egypt to kill us and our children and our cattle with thirst ? ” 
From the brow of Sufsafeh, too, the very spot where the Lord descended 
in glory, while looking down on that rock-girt plain where the Israelites 
encamped, he can best realize every scene of that wondrous drama when a 
law, sublime, stern, and unchangeable as the mountains themselves, was 
revealed to the people. Let the pilgrim follow the track of the Israelites, 
through the defiles of the peninsula and the rocky fastnesses of Edom, 
to the borders of the “ Promised Land;” and he will carry away with him 
such an impression of that “great and terrible wilderness” as nothing 
in time will ever efface.. He will see, too, as he never saw before, the 
greatness of that miracle by which more than two millions of souls were 
here supplied with food and water during a forty years’ journey. 

Hebron may form the next shrine. Here reposes the dust of Abraham, 
Isaac, and Jacob, in the cave of Machpelah, which the father of the Jewish 
people bought from the sons of Heth. In going thence to the Holy City, 
the pilgrim will turn aside to a little village encompassed by fresh olive- 
groves, to visit the spot where the Saviour was born. Jerusalem, and Olivet, 
and Bethany, and “the Garden,” with all their hallowed precincts, will next 
be seen. Then the pilgrim will descend from Jerusalem to Jericho, re- 


lxiv . Skeleton Tours. — Introd. 


membering, as he passes along, the parable of the good Samaritan, and 
but too likely to realize it if not well guarded; and he will sit amid the 
willows on the Jordan’s bank to recall that scene when the Saviour was 
baptised by the reluctant John, and the Dove descended upon Him to fit 
Him for His great work. 
The pilgrim will now set out northward; stopping, as he crosses the 
rocky slopes of Scopus, to take a last look at Zion’s walls and Olivet’s 
‘brow. He will journey on by Bethel, which Jacob consecrated as the 
“ House of God ;” and Shiloh, where the Ark rested so long; and he will 
repose for a time, as Jesus did, by Jacob’s well at Sichar, to recall an affect- 
ing incident, and to look up perchance at the summits of Ebal and Gerizim. 
Resuming his route, he leaves the “city of the Samaritans,” and the fallen 
capital of Israel, on his left, and after a long and weary journey sees the 
few huts that now mark the site of blood-stained Jezreel, at the base of 
Gilboa, on which Saul and Jonathan fell. Crossing a rich plain, he pauses 
at Shunem to mark the place where the prophet Elisha was wont to rest, 
and where he restored the child of his hostess to life again. He then 
passes round the base of the hill to Nain, where the widow’s son was raised 
from the dead by the word of the Saviour. Tabor is now before him, and 
away in the distance is the snowy peak of Hermon. He crosses a great 
plain, winds up a rocky defile, and enters the retired vale where Nazareth 
still stands. Crossing the hills where Jesus in his boyhood often wandered, 
the pilgrim will visit the little village of ‘‘ Cana of Galilee,” where the first. 
miracle was performed; and he will then turn eastward over wooded height 
and corn-clad plain, till he descends to the still waters of the Sea of Galilee. 
Here every spot to which the eye turns, and on which the foot rests, is 
sacred. Winding from Tiberias along the rocky shore by Magdala, the 
home of Mary Magdalene, he reaches the desolate site of Capernaum, 
Christ’s “‘own city.” There he can see that prophecy is just history in 
anticipation ;—‘‘ And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, 
shalt be brought down to hell.” Onward the pilgrim journeys, looking 
back with lingering gaze on the spot where so much of Christ’s public life 
was spent, The upper Jordan and the “ waters of Merom” are passed in 
succession on the right; while on the left are the southern shoots of 
Lebanon. Turning eastward across a plain of great fertility, he arrives at 
a little mound, from the side of which the principal fountain of the Jordan 
‘bursts forth. This is the site of Dan, the northern border-city of Palestine. 
Leaving it behind, he goes up the slope through forests of evergreen oak till 
he reaches the crumbling ramparts of Cesarea-Philippi ; and looking up t 
the mountain peaks above him, his eye may unconsciously rest on the scen 
of the “ Transfiguration.” 

Here, as he turns his back on Palestine, he bids farewell to the holiest 
shrines ; but there is still something on the other side of Hermon worthy of a 
visit. After passing the southern declivities he enters a broad ancient road 
that runs across a relling plain; it is the highway from Jerusalem to Da- 
mascus. Pressing onward, the domes and minarets of the oldest city in 
the world appear in front, bright and beautiful, over the dark green of the 
forest-gatdens. Here, eighteen centuries ago, Saul the persecutor was trans- 
formed by a miracle into Paul the Apostle. 

The “ Pilgrim’s Tour” now terminates. We have only indicated the 
sites of whose identity there can be no reasonable doubt; for we would 


a 


aoe fF 


_———ar— eer =~ 
’ 


- ~=_ 


Introd. Servants—-Dragomen. lxv 


not have the pilgrim mingle the sacred associations of such scenes as these 
with the fanciful creations of a later age. 


12.—SERVANTS—DRAGOMEN, 


Those who come from Egypt will do well to arrange with dragoman and 
servants there for the whole tour through Syria. This will save time and 
trouble. (For the usual mode of contract with the dragoman, see above, 
7; and for the wages of servants, see ‘ Handbook for Egypt.’) Such 
as come to Syria direct will find dragomen and servants at Beyrout and 
Jerusalem. They are generally bad and dear. Their written certificates 
are not to be depended on, for they are transferable; and the recommenda- 
tions of hotel-keepers are worthless, for they are interested, A banker or 
consul may sometimes be consulted to more advantage. 

The dragoman is either paid regular wages, about a dollar a day (67. per 
month); or he contracts for a certain sum to provide everything. The 
former leaves the traveller more free, but it entails far more trouble; for 
unless the strictest supervision is constantly kept up, the wily drago- 
man will make a large percentage on every article purchased, and lead his 
master besides into much unnecessary expense. If it be intended to make 
a long stay in the country, this plan is decidedly more economical ; but if a 
hurried visit or a few weeks’ travel be alone contemplated, then I recom- 
mend a contract for the supply of every article. The rates have of late 
ranged from 11. 5s, to 17. 10s. a day for each person. 

In making a contract there are several points which should be carefully 
noted: Ist. That guards, guides, and bakhshish of every kind are included. 
2nd. That while the leading points you intend to visit are noted, you have 
full liberty to vary your course at pleasure, and stop when and where you 
wish, 8rd. The animals are to be sound, strong, and active; to secure 
which, personal inspection is necessary. 4th. The camp furniture is to be 
clean and comfortable, and the cuisine liberal. 

I would further recommend travellers not to deliver themselves up to a 
dragoman, as letters are delivered to a postmaster, to be conveyed safely to 
a cerf@in place, within a certain time, by such a route, and in such a way, 
as he (the dragoman) may deem right. Each individual, or each party, 
should mark out a definite route, which can easily be done by the aid of this 
Handbook, and insist on following it, all difficulties and dangers notwith- 
standing. It is a very common trick to invent a robber story to prevent 
a traveller from visiting some interesting spot which happens to be a few 
miles out of the routine way. Such things ought never to be listened to; 
and when the dragoman absolutely refuses to comply, let a good round 
sum be deducted from his pay for not fulfilling his contract. Another 
hint may be useful for poetical travellers, who, becoming enamoured of their 
dragoman, deern him the very emhodiment of truth, honesty, and devoted- ~ 
ness. It may be very charitable and pleasing to entertain these feelings, 
but it is very dangerous to act upon them. It is the unvarying rule in 
Syria for the dragoman to get an allowance of from 10 to 20 per cent. on 
every article his master buys. This makes the goods seem very dear, 
though the amount the merchant receives may not be much above their 
real value. This is a grievous imposition, but it is not easy to avoid it; 

[Syria and Palestine. | é 


Ixvi Servants—Dragomen. Introd. 


for if the hotel-keeper or cicerone be employed as temporary interpreter, his 
commission will be greater still. 

No information as to history, antiquities, statistics, or even places of 
interest out of the beaten track, need be expected from dragomen. For this 
the traveller must depend on his own reading, and his guide-book. Hence 
the necessity of forming a definite plan beforehand, as to the general line of 
route, and all the objects to be visited. 

Other servants, such as cook, butler, groom, &c., can easily be obtained 
at Beyrout or Jerusalem by the help of the dragoman. The usual wages 
paid by residents are—for a cook, 120 to 150 piastres a month; butler, or 
other indoor servant, 100; groom, 100. The groom provides his own food 
and lodging. Such as reside only for two or three months may expect to 
pay higher rates. 

The only dragoman I can venture to recommend is Aly Abu Halfwy, an 
Kzyptian. He bears testimonials from Cyril C. Graham, Esq., with whom 
he travelled for more than a year. He accompanied him to Dongola in 
Africa, and to the Safah and Harrah in the Arabian desert ; besides wandering 
through parts: of Palestine, both E. and W. of the Jordan, which most 
dragomen have never heard of. I had personal experience of his efficiency 
during a 40 days’ journey last spring. He may be heard of at the Consulate 
in Cairo, . 


HANDBOOK 


FOR 


TRAVELLERS IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 


SECTION I. 
THE PENINSULA OF SINAI AND EDOM. 


INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION, 


GEOLOGICAL DIVISIONS OF THE PENINSULA.—1. The Plateau or Desert of 
Tih, “ Wandering.” —2. The Mountains of Tur; Debbet er-Ramleh ; 
granite mountains of Sinai; the Ka@’a,—HisToryY.—INHABITANTS ; 
Tribes of the Tawarah, their dress, honesty, marriage customs; the 
- Terabin, Tiadhah, and Haiwat; Arab Laws, “‘ Tricks upon Tra- 
vellers.” —CHOOSING AN EscoRT.—EXPENSES, 


ROUTES. 

ROUTE : - PAGE , ROUTE PAGE 

1. Cairo to the Convent of Sinai 9 | 3. ’Akabah to Wady Mfsa—Petra 40 
Suez ;—“* Pas of Red Sea:”»—Wad B ining with the Alawin ; Kdom, its 
Mfukatteb ;-—Feiran and Serbal ;~- istory and Physical Geography ;— 
Surfbit el-Khadim ;—Convent ; — Petra, its History, description of 
Excursions to the top of Sinai and city ;—Mount Hor, Tomb of Aaron. 
“Holy Places.” 4. Petra to Hebron, by Kerak and 

2. The Convent of Sinai to ’Aka- the Dead Sea... «58 

a Petra to Hebron, by Kadesh 69 
Hazeroth ;—Route of the Israelites ;— an CTSNCD® .. «+ as 

Guif of Flath;—Elath and Ezion- Site of Kadesh ;—Route of Israelites. 
geber ;—’ Akabah. 6. Sinai to Hebron direct .. .. 65 


THE beaten track for English and American travellers to Syria is now from 
Egypt through the peninsula of Sinai. This region, whether viewed physically 
or historically, is one of singular interest. Sterile, wild, sublime in its scenery, 
it forms a striking contrast to Palestine. Its plains are dreary and destitute 
of verdure ; its long valleys are covered with sand or flinty gravel, and shut 
in by naked cliffs; its mountains rear up their heads in stern grandeur, without 
a tree or a shrub to relieve the eye by its freshness. Nature, however, has 
given to these mountain peaks other colours than those of heath or forest, 
which, if less beautiful, are not less striking—the black, purple, green, and red 
hues of their own rocks. 
[Syria and Palestine.] B 


2 Geological Divisions. Sect. I. 


The peninsula of Sinai divides itself geologically into two sections. 

1. The plateau_or desert of Tih, bounded by the Mediterranean, Palestine, 
the valley of “Arabah, and the Sinai group of mountains. It is shut in on the 
south by the range of Rahah, which the traveller sees before him as he crosses. 
at Suez from Africa to Asia, running parallel to the Red Sea at a distance of 
some 12 or 15 miles. The course of this range is at first 8. by E.; but as it 
approaches the Sinai group it sweeps away round to the eastward, as if afraid 
to encounter the granite peaks; and at last terminates in bold cliffs near the 
head of the Gulf of ’Akabah. The whole range is nearly of uniform altitude, 
and may be estimated as averaging 4000 feet. The upper strata, constituting 
the main heights, are cretaceous limestone ; but this, in many places, overlies 
the older variegated sandstone. 

The desert of et-Tih, “the Wandering,” doubtless takes its name from the 

wanderings of the “Children of Israel” through its arid wastes more than 
3000 years ago. Itis wholly a table-land, or plateau, supported on the south 
and east by the range of Jebel Rahah, and its continuation Jebel et-Tih, and 
sloping gently westward down to the sandy shores of the Mediterranean. Its 
average elevation may be about 1500 feet. Its features are like those of the 
region between Cairo and Suez,—vast rolling plains, with a hard gravelly soil, 
intersected at intervals by chalky mounds, low irregular limestone ridges, and 
dry naked valleys. The geologist will find here large beds of ostrea, coral 
rocks, huge ammonites, good specimens of fossil wood, and extensive strata 
of flint. The fountains are “few and far between,” and not even “angelic” 
when we reach them, for the water is almost universally brackish. This 
is emphatically “that great and terrible wilderness” through which the 
Israelites so long wandered. It is now intersected by several caravan routes, 
clearly enough defined by the bleached bones of hundreds of camels, with 
sometimes even those of their drivers beside them. The greatest of these 
roads is that of the Egyptian Hdj, or Mohammedan pilgrims’ route from Misr 
to Mecca. It crosses the desert in nearly a straight line due east, from the 
head of the Gulf of Suez to the dangerous pass from which the neighbouring 
fortress of ’Akabah (“the Descent’) takes its name. About half way is the 
solitary station and castle of Nukhl (“ palm-trees ”), one of the dreariest spots 
ever inhabited by mortal. The roads from Suez to Gaza, from the convent of 
Sinai to Hebron, and from ’Akabah to Gaza, also cross this desert in different 
directions. For a description of the two last see Route 6. 

2. The second geological division of this region embraces the country lying 
between the Gulfs of Suez and ’Akabah, and having along its northern side the 
range of Rahah. This is the peninsula proper, and contains the whole of 
the Sinai group of mountains. It may also be divided into two distinct 
geological sections. Along the base of the Rahah range is a narrow tract of 
sandstone strata, covered here and there with loose drifting sand : it is appro- 
priately called by the Arabs Debbeé er-Ramleh, “the plain of sand.” It 
extends from the cliffs that border the Gulf of ’Akabah to the plain that 
separates the Gulf of Suez from Jebel et-Tih. The northern route to Sinai, 
by Surabit el-Khadim, traverses this plain, and a commanding view of it is 
gained from the summit of Mount Catherine. Poetieal authors, who are accus- 
tomed to write and speak of the “sandy deserts of Arabia,’’ and others, too, 
who have adopted the popular belief, may well wonder why the name Debbet 
er-Ramleh should be applied par excellence to this narrow tract. “Is not the 
whole desert of Arabia sandy?” many will inquire with surprise. Far from 
it. Sand is the exception in the Arabian plateaus, and hence this name, 
given, by way of distinction, to the only sandy tract, with the exception of a 
narrow strip along the Mediterranean, in the whole Sinai peninsula. The 
surface of the desert, as well here as on the great eastern plains, is firm, dry, 
and gravelly ; presenting a most marked contrast to the deep sand-drifts that 


Smal. Eistory.— Inhabitants. 3 


are accumulated by the hot winds of Africa around the ruins of Abu Simbel and 
Memphis, or which the adventurous explorer will have to pass in the dreary 
route to Dongola. 

Immediately south of Debbet er-Ramleh begin the mountains of Tir, the 
true highlands of the peninsula. A narrow and broken belt of grunstein and 
porphyry separates the sand strata from the granite, which forms the great 
mass of the Sinai group. The whole of the mountains, however, are not 
granite. The section on the north-west, between the Gulf of Suez and Debbet 
er-Ramleh, is sandstone. The remarkable inscribed cliffs in Wady Mukat- 
teb, “ the Written Valley,” as well as those of Surabit el-Khadim, are all sand- 
stone of the new red and variegated kinds. It is soft, and its cliffs smooth, 
thus offering tempting natural tablets for inscriptions, hieroglyphics, and 
sculptures. The granite commences at Jebel Serbél. From the summit of 
St. Catherine (Jebel Katherin) the best panoramic view is obtained of the 
whole mountains. It is there seen that they cluster round Jebel Mfsa, and 
shoot out from it in irregular jagged ridges, intersected by ravines of surpassing 
wildness and grandeur. The colours of the granite peaks, though various, are 
generally dark and sombre. In some of the less elevated masses greenstone 
prevails, which, being easily decomposed and diffused by the winter rains, 
tinges the strata beneath with a dull yellowish hue. Where porphyry pre- 
dominates it imparts its own rich purple to the cliffs. The great body of the 
mountains, however, is composed of red granite, whose bright hues the action 
of the elements during long centuries has changed into a dull reddish-brown. 
Red and dark green are the prevailing colours in Sinai proper; and these are 
variegated with the perpendicular purple streaks in the Serbal group. 

A strip of level ground called emphatically el-Kdé’a, “the plain,” separates 
the highlands of Sinai from the shore of the Gulf of Suez. It is covered with 
chalky gravel mixed with flint, like sections of the desert of Tih. Near the 
come of this strip, on the shore of the gulf, is situated the little village 
of Tar. 


The whole mistory of the peninsula of Sinai clusters round one brief period, 
—the forty years’ journey of the Israelites. Before that time it had no history, 
except as the region where the Egyptians wrought copper-mines, as we learn 
from the sculptured tablets of Suribit el-Khadim and Wady Mukatteb. Since 
that time all that has occurred within its borders has sprung directly or 
indirectly from the events of the Israelites’ pilgrimage. The mysterious inscrip- 
tions of the several valleys; the old episcopal city of Feiran; the numerous 
hermitages, grottoes, and chapels on the mountain sides; the convent of Sinai, 
and its sisters that have long ago fallen to ruin; the journeys of modern 
travellers,—are all the offspring of the wondrous manifestations of Divine power 
and majesty displayed during those eventful “forty years.” 


THE INHABITANTS,—In travelling through the peninsula of Sinai we not 
only meet with the Bedawin whose home it is, but we must employ them as 
our guides and guards. No foreigner can traverse their territory except under 
their protection. It thus becomes not only interesting, but even necessary, 
to know something of the several tribes, their character, and their districts. 
The proper Bedawin of Mount Sinai, or Jebel Tr, are divided into 5 tribes. 
They are all called by the common name Tawarah (“people of Tfr”), and 
in time of war with foreigners they fight under one chief. They are as 
ollows :— 

1. The Sawdélihah (sing. Sélihy), the largest and most important division, 
comprising several branches which themselves constitute tribes, viz. (1), the 
Dhuheiry, a section of which is the Aulad Said, or Saidiyeh, who occupy the 
best valleys among the mountains, and appear to have most connexion with 

B 


4 Inhabitants. Sect. I. 


the convent. To them belong the well-known guides—Tuweileb ; Besharah, 
who accompanied Laborde, Dr. Robinson, and Miss Martineau; and Husein, 
who was Laborde’s chief guide. (2.) The ’Awarimeh, (3.) The Kurrashy, 
whose chief sheikh Saleh has long been the head sheikh of the whole Tawarah. 
The Sawalihah occupy the mountain valleys on the west and north-west of 
the convent. They are the oldest and most distinguished inhabitants of the 
peninsula. All the subdivisions intermarry, and are generally on terms of 
close friendship. The Dhuheiry and 'Awarimeb, however, are alone recog- 
nised as Ghafirs, or “ protectors, of the convent, and consequently they alone 
have the right to conduct travellers. 

2. The’ Aleikdt are also an old tribe, but now poorand fewinnumber. They - 
intermarry with the former, and are among the recognised Ghafirs. Their 
territory extends from Surabit el-Khadim and Wady Mukatteb to Wady 
Ghirundel on the west. One of their sheikhs, Matir, is a well-known and 
trustworthy guide. 

3. The Muzeiny came into this region at a later period, and are looked on 
by the Sawflihah as intruders, but they intermarry with the Aleikat. They 
are numerous and strong. They pitch their tents and pasture their flocks 
along the shore of the Gulf of Suez, and through the whole eastern part of the 
mountain region. They have no connexion with the convent. 

i The Auldd Suleimén consist only of a few families round the village 
of Tar. 

5. The Bent Wdsel.—Of these there are but a few tents amid the Muzeiny : 
they are generally pitched beside Shurm, a small ruined village at the mouth 
of the Gulf of ‘Akabah. 
~ The Tawarah occupy the whole region south of the range of Tih and Rahah, 
and permit no foreigner to conduct strangers through their territory without 
special consent. Travellers who approach the convent from Syria may brin 
with them escorts of the Tiy&bah, or any other neighbouring tribe, but they 
can only leave the convent under the guidance of those Tawarah who. enjoy 
the privileges of Ghafir. 

The Tawarah are far inferior in wealth, courage, and even in personal 
appearance, to the Bedawin of. the eastern plain. They are confined to a 
narrow district, possessing few springs and scanty pasturage. A few sheep or 
goats, a single camel, and sometimes a donkey, form about the average wealth 
of each tent. The sheikh is deemed a Croesus who can number 6 camels. 
Their dress too is different from that of the true Bedawy. They wear a 
voluminous turban instead of the gay kufiyeh. The rest of their costume is 
poor and simple enough : a wide abba, a scanty under garment, a leathern belt 
replenished with a row of cartridges, a crooked knife, and a long gun,—such is 
the Tary Arab equipped. But in some other respects the Tawarah contrast 
favourably with the Bedawin; they are obliging, tractable, and faithful; and 
what is still rarer, they are distinguished for their honesty : all Bedawin are 
thieves by profession ; but among the Tawarah tribes robberies are unknown. 
An article of dress, a piece of furniture, an old tent, may be left upon a rock 
for months together,—its owner will find it safe when he returns. A camel 
falls dead beneath its burden in the open desert; its master draws a circle 
round it with his stick, and then sets off to his tribe, perhaps two or three 
days’ journey distant, to seek another animal ; and though hundreds pass the 
spot in the interval, not a hand is stretched out to steal. The grain and 
principal valuables of many of the sheikhs are stowed away in little buildings 
among the mountains, and may not be visited during a greater part of the 
season, yet they are never violated. Burckhardt tells a characteristic 
incident: “ Some years ago an Arab of the Sawflihah laid hold of his own son, 
carried him bound to the summit of a mountain, and precipitated him, because 
he had been convicted of stealing corn from a friend.” 


SINAI. Inhabitants. 5 


Some of their marriage customs are so peculiar as to be worthy of record. 
The Arab maiden is bought, not won. The father regulates the price, accord- 
ing to his own importance, and her beauty. It is said to range from 5 dols. 
to 30. When the terms have been settled between the father and the 
intended bridegroom, the latter receives a green branch of tree or shrub, 
which he sticks in his turban, and wears for 3 days, to show that he is 
espoused to a virgin. The young lady is seldom made acquainted with the 
transaction. When she comes home in the evening at the head of her father's 
sheep, she is met a short distance from the camp by her “intended,” and a 
couple of his young friends, who carry her off by force to her father’s tent. 
This, however, requires some expertness ; for if the damsel at all suspects 
their designs before they get sufficiently near to seize her, she fights like a 
fury, defending herself with stones, and often inflicting deep wounds, even 
though she may not feel altogether indifferent to the lover. This is desert 
etiquette ; and the more she strikes, struggles, bites, kicks, and screams, the 
more is she applauded ever after by her companions. When at last van- 
quished and carried to the tent, one of the bridegroom's relatives throws an 
abba over her, completely covering her head, and then pronounces the name 
of her husband, which to that moment she may never have heard. After this 
ceremony she is dressed by her mother and female relations in the new clothes 
provided by the bridegroom, placed on the back of a gaily caparisoned camel, 
and, still struggling in the restraining grasp of her husband's friends, paraded 
three times round his tent. She is then carried into the tent amid the shouts 
of the assembled encampment, and the ceremony concludes. 

A still more singular custom prevails among the Muzeiny, but is confined 
to that tribe. When the young lady has been wrapped in the abba she is 
permitted to flee to the mountains, and the next day the bridegroom goes off 
in pursuit. Many days often elapse ere he can find her; the time is, of course, 
jonger or shorter according to the impression he has made on the fair one’s 

eart. 

_ Besides the Tawarah there is another tribe in this part of the peninsula, 
called the Jebeliyeh. They are scarcely recognised as Bedawin; and they 
are the serfs of the convent. The tradition is that they are descendants of 
some Wallachian peasants who were sent here by the Emperor Justinian to 
be the vassals and guards of the convent: if so, time has made them, in appear- 
ance, dress, language, and habits, like the other Arabs. They are now under 
the entire control of the monks, and have the exclusive right of guiding 
travellers to the summits of Sinai and Horeb, and on other pedestrian 
excursions around the convent. A few families of them occupy the date- 
gardens of Feirin and the convent-grounds at Tar. 

The total number of the inhabitants of the peninsula south of the Tih range 
is estimated at from 4000 to 5000 souls. 

The region north of the Tih and R&hah range is occupied by 3 great 
tribes, viz.— 

1. The Terabin, whose possessions extend from Jebel Rahah and the 
Isthmus of Suez to Gaza; they are friends and allies of the Tawarah. 

2. The Tiydhah (“people of Tih’’) occupy a tract immediately west of the 
former, reaching across the desert of Tih from the Sinai mountains to the 
borders of Palestine. 

83. The Haiwdt, who pasture their flocks and pitch their tents along the 
eastern borders of the plateau of Tih, down to the great valley of the 

rabah, 

There is just one other tribe of Arabs with whom the traveller may have 
to deal in his pilgrimage, the ’Alawin, whose sheikh, Hussein, has long claimed 
the right of furnishing an escort from ’Akabah to Petra. These are a wild 
and lawless set, far different from the gentle, obliging Tawarah.. They are 


6 Inhabitants. Sect. I. 


avaricious, disobliging, impertinent, and should thus be avoided if possible : 
still to attempt to penetrate to Wady Musa by this route without their escort 
would be madness. In fact, it should be adopted, and strictly followed out, as 
a general rule, that no traveller should ever attempt to pass through the 
territory of a tribe until he has secured an escort. from it, or has obtained the 
express permission of its chief. 

The Bedawin are an interesting, if a wild people. The motto given to their 

eat progenitor nearly 4000 years ago applies to almost every individual of 

is descendants still—“* He will be a wild man; his hand will be against 
every man, and every man’s hand against him;” and yet they have many good 
qualities. Their laws—for the Bedawin have laws, and observe them too— 
though somewhat peculiar according to our notions, have a simple honesty 
and =traigh tforwardness about them that contrast favourably at least with 
Chancery Courts. A Bedawy, for instance, is in debt and refuses to pay his 
creditor, no uncommon predicament in more civilised countries. The creditor 
takes two or three men as witnesses of the refusal; and then seizes or steals, 
if he can, a camel or something else belonging to the debtor, and deposits it 
with a third person. This brings the case to trial before the judge, and the 
debtor forfeits the article seized. In cases of “assault and battery’ the law 
is equally primitive. A fine is immediately imposed in proportion to the 
injury inflicted ; if both parties are wounded a balance is struck between the 
wounds, and the party least wounded pays a fine equal to the difference. The 
degree of offence, or provocation, is never taken into account, it being taken 
for granted that nothing can justify a quarrel between brethren, and that all 
such occurrences must be tried on their simple merits. 

But the severest law of the Bedawin is that of blood revenge. “ Whoso 
sheddeth man’s blood, by man shal] his blood be shed,” is a statute rigidly 
executed in the desert. It is not only the right, but the duty, of the nearest 
relative of the deceased to slay the murderer, wherever he may find him. So 
far the law under existing circumstances might be just and salutary, but, 
unfortunately, it extends farther, and any member of the murderer's family, 
though innocent and even ignorant of the crime, may become the victim of the 
“avenger of blood.’’ Blood-feuds are thus almost endless, running into an 
infinite series of murders. Yet this terrible law exercises an immense influ- 
ence for good upon all the Bedawin. It makes them cautious in their quarrels, 
and chary of bloodshed even in their plundering expeditions. The absolute 
certainty of murder being revenged in one way or another, at one time or ano- 
ther, on one person or another, puts a great check upon passion. No man, 
no family, no tribe, will lightly perform, or dé, an act that will hang a 
sentence of death over them, to be executed no one can tell when or where. 
Weeks, months, years, may pass, yet the terrible sentence is not forgotten— 
it will surely come at last. 

The morals of the Bedawin are far superior to those of the Arabs of the 
cities and villages. Hard fare and desert life are not calculated to pamper the 
appetites; but, even independent of this, there is a principle of honour in the 
breast of the wild “son of the desert” which we seek for in vain beneath 
the silken robe of the citizen. The Bedawin, says Burckhardt, are perhaps 
the only people of the East that can-with justice be entitled “true lovers.” 
The passion of love is, indeed, much talked of by the inhabitants of towns, 
but there is scarcely a doubt that nothing is meant by it more than the 
grossest animal desire. The total. separation of the sexes, and the mystic 
privacy of the harim, contribute much to this state of things. In the desert 
all is different. The Arab maid leads forth her father’s sheep, mixes freely 
with the young men of her tribe, and yet her modesty amounts even to 
prudery. The breath of scandal is never breathed against her. Love thus 
often springs up almost in childhood, and is fostered during a series of years. 


Srnal. Choosing an Escort. 7 


Still it must be acknowledged that divorce is not unfrequent, and perhaps, if 
it were as easily accomplished in more civilized lands, it might not be much 
more uncommon. It may be ascribed rather to unruly temper than to any 
want of feeling. That such is sometimes the case Burckhardt gives a striking 
proof. A awy of Sinai divorced his wife, but shot himself dead when he 
saw her married to another man. The same writer gives another affecting 
tale of Bedawy feeling. Near Wady Feiran, in the desert of Sinai, there is a 
mountain shown from which two young girls precipitated themselves, having 
the ringlets of their hair twisted together. They thus dashed themselves to 
pieces, because on that evening they were to be married, by an arrangement of 
their friends, to men whom they disliked. The peak is still called Hajr el- 
Bendt, “the maidens’ rock.” 

Sir G. Wilkinson, in the Handbook for Egypt, gives a word of advice 
relative to the Bedawin, which I take the liberty of inserting here, as it 
applies to the tribes of Syria as well as those of Egypt. “Another observation 
I may also make about the tricks upon travellers practised by the Arabs, which 
should not be tolerated. It sometimes happens that a traveller is stopped on 

the road, by what is said to be a party of a hostile tribe, and obliged to pay a 
sum of money, as he supposes, to save his life, or to secure the continuation of 
his journey in safety. 

“Everybody who knows Arab customs must be aware that no one of a 
hostile tribe can ever enter the territory of any other Arabs without the insult 
being avenged by the sword ; and it is evident, if no resistance is made on the 
part of those who conduct the traveller, that the attacking party are either 
some of their own or of a friendly tribe, who are allowed to spoil him by the 
very persons he pays to protect him ; for an Arab would rather die than suffer 
such an affront from a hostile tribe in his own desert. If then his Arabs do not 

_ fight on the occasion, he may be sure it is a trick to extort money; he should, 
therefore, use no arms against the supposed enemies, but afterwards punish his 

faithless guides by deducting the sum taken from their pay; and it is as well, 
before starting, to make them enter into an engagement that they are able as 
well as willing to protect him.” 

It should always be a prominent part of the engagement with every escort 
of Bedawin that the leader guarantees the safety of the traveller and his pro- 
perty, and will, therefore, be made accountable for all loss. Such an under- 
standing prevents all tricks; and if a trick be nevertheless attempted, and 
property or money carried off, the traveller should insist, if not for his own 
sake, at least for the sake of those who follow him, on full remuneration. 


The traveller is now prepared for CHOOSING AN ESCORT, which is best done, 
by the aid of his dragoman, through the English consul, who can give him the 
most recent information regarding the state of the tribes in the peninsula, and 
the best guides. If it be his intention to proceed to ’Akabah, it may be as 
well to inquire whether the Muzeiny Arabs are at peace with the other tribes 
of the Tawarah; and whether any difficulty has recently been experienced in 
passing through their territories. The number of camels the traveller will 
require will depend, of course, on the number of his servants, the amount of 
his baggage, and the “style” he wishes to keep up. Taste and the purse have 
both to be consulted. A tent and provisions are the great requisites, and the 
less one has beyond them the better. To travel en grand senér will be found 
slow work in the desert. To pack, unpack, and arrange a fine equipage, to 
get up luxurious dinners, and to keep the various members of a large retinue 
each in his proper place, will be found to detract much from the pleasure, and 
from the profit too, of a desert tour. Let simple necessaries be well secured, 
and aul Pixuries thrown to the winds, and both mind and body will get 
relie 


8 . Expenses. Sect. IL 


‘The cuarces for camels from Cairo to 'Akabah vary from 190 piastres to 250 
per head, and 5 camels should be sufficient, on an average, foreach person. As 
much as 220 piastres a camel has, however, been paid from Cairo to the 
convent of Sinaialone. These prices include everything—food of animals and 
Arabs, poy of escort, everything, in fact, 80 far as concerns the Bedawin. It 
should be remembered that the Arabs are inveterate beggars; they will beg 
food for themselves and for their animals, water, tobacco, clothes, money, and 
anything else they can think of. They will often affirm, and even swear, that 
they forgot their supplies, that they are hungry, &c. But let the traveller 
beware of yielding to their importunities. A Bedawy never sets out on a 
journey without an ample stock of provisions; if he can save it by begging, it 
1s, of course, 80 much gained. My advice is, be firm at first, show your escort 
that you quite understand them, that any attempt to impose upon you is labour 
lost. But after the first day or two you may relax a little in favour of such as 
show themselves obliging. An occasional “pipe” of tobacco, or a cup of 
coffee, or a piece of bread, may be prudently inistered with good effect. 
The Bedawin are deeply sensible of such little kindnesses, while indiscriminate 
gifts only spoil them. 

At least one-half of the hire of the camels should be retained to the end of 
the journey, and on no account should “return fares” be ever submitted to. 
When the Arabs engage to escort you to any given point, let it be understood 
that you have done with them at that point; with their journey back you have 
nothing whatever to do. In addition to the agreed price, a pretty liberal 
bakhshish is generally given ; but even this should be araduated in proportion to 
the satisfaction the escort has given. A new turban, or abba, may also be pre- 
sented to the sheikh. 

Those who go to ’Akabah might do well to enter into a provisional engage- 
ment with the Tawarah to conduct them back from that place to the Castle of 
Nukhl, in the desert of Tih, in case they should not be able to come to terms 
with the sheikh of the ’Alawin for an escort direct to Petra. (For farther advice 
on this point see below, Route 3.) 

For the wages of servants and other particulars see Handbook for Egypt. 


Route 1.— Cairo to the Convent of Sinai. 9 


ROUTES. 


Srwal, 
ROUTH 1. 
CAIRO TO THE CONVENT OF SINAI, 
H M 
Cairo to Suez (direct) .. .. 32 30 
“Ayan Masa .. .. «- 6 20 
’Ain Hawarah, Marah .. - 16 30 
Wady Ghirundel, Elim... .. 2 0 
Wady Useit .. .. .. « 2 15 
Wady et-Taiyibeh .. .. .. 4 0 
Total .. 63 35 
. Wady et-Taiyibeh to Sinai, by Wady 
Mukatteb and Serbal. 
Mouth of Wady et-Taiyibeh 2 0 
Plain of Murkhéh .. .. .. 2 0O 
Wady Shella] (entrance) .. 2 0 
Wady Mukatteb(entrance).. 4 0 
Wady Feirin .. .. .. .. 4 0 
Feirin(Paran?) .. 5 30 
Wady esh-Sheikh .. 2 0 
Nukb Hawy a 6 0 
Convent of Sinai .. .. .. 3B O 
Total .. 30 30 


Wady et-Taiyibeh to Sinai, by Surdbit 
el-Khadem. 


Sarbut el-Jemel .. .. «- 83 40 
Debbet er-Ramleh.. ..... 6 10 
Surabit el-Khadem.. .. .. 2 50 
Wady esh-Sheikh .. .. .. 12 35 
Nukb Hawy .. .. .. « 4 380 
Convent .. « « «. «« 38 QO 


Total .. 32 45 

The procuring and packing of all 
the requisites for a long desert journey 
is both troublesome and fatiguing. 
Everything must be arranged for sling- 
ing, in hampers, boxes, or saddle-bags, 
on the backs of camels. They must be 
secured in such a way as that the 
rough handling of the Bedawin, and 
an occasional dash against a cliff, or 
fall from the animal’s back, may not 
crush or break them. Those, too, who 
engage their own animals, and who do 


.| per 


not enter into an agreement with a 
dragoman by the day for the supply of 
everything, will require to see that pro- 

oads are put upon thecamels. It 
is the interest of the Bedawin to make 
the loads light, so as both to save tlie 
animals and secure the employment of 
a larger number. The drivers almost 
universally assert, before they have 
half a load on, that you want to kill 
their beasts; and they will protest 
with loud screams, and no little gesti- 
culation, that they will not put on an- 
other package. But firmness and calm- 
ness will conquer in the end ; and once 
the luggage is fairly portioned com- 
plaints cease. This final arrangement 
is generally made without the city 
walls, where it is customary to encamp 
the first night, 

Another thing the traveller will re- 
quire to see to himself, under all cir- 
cumstances, is the choice of an easy 
dromedary and good saddle for his own 
use. Much of his comfort during a 
long journey will depend upon this, 
Let an animal, with its trappings, be 
selected, and tried beforehand; and 
when the time comes for the final 
start, take care that no tricks are 
played upon you in the way of substi- 
tuting a broken-down camel for an agile 
dromedary ; or a rickety “nondescript” 
for a smart saddle, 


Cairo to Suez (Arabicé, Suweis)— 
323 hrs. direct. There are three prin- 
cipal routes from Cairo to Suez. These 
three I shall briefly describe ; referring 
those who desire information about 
others, and about the Indian mail sta- 
tions, with “tariff,” &c., to the Hand- 
book for Egypt, Rte. 7.—1. Derb el-Hdj, 
“Pilgrim’s road,’ which leads from 
the city to the Birket el-Haj_ (Pil- 
grim’s Pool,), a few miles N.E. of 
Heliopolis, and 4 h. from Cairo. It 
here turns to the rt., by a stone ruin, 
and continues S. by E. to the castle 
and station of Ajrid, 6 m. from Suez. 
2. Derb et-Tawarah, the usual route 

B 


10 


of the Tar Arabs. It proceeds from 
the city nearly due east, till it strikes 
the former a day’s journey west of 
Ajrad. The distance between Cairo 
and Suez by this route is 82m. 3. 
Derb el-Besatin. This runs southward 
from Cairo to the village of Besatin 
(Gardens), near the banks of the Nile; 
and there turns eastward, passing the 
southern base of Jebel Mukattem, and 
north of Jebel Gharbfin ; and joins the 
former about 59 m. east of Cairo. A 
branch of this road leads down the 
valleys of Ramliyeh and Tawarik, 
reaching the shore of the Red Sea 
some 10 m. below Suez. 

Each of these routes has its own 
peculiar objects of interest. No. 2 
passes the remarkable petrifactions of 
wood, mixed with pebbles of flint and 
chalcedony, a few miles east of Cairo. 
No. 3, according to Arab tradition, is 
the route followed by the Israelites in 
their flight from Egypt. Josephus 
says they started from Latopolis, or 
Babylon, the site of which has been 
identified between Cairo and Besatin, 
and is now called Misr el-Kadim, 
“Old Cairo.” If this be true, then 
their natural route to the Red Sea 
would be through Wady Tawarik. It 
is more probable, however, that Ra- 
meses, from which the Israelites set 
out, was much farther northward, and 
somewhere in the Delta. 

Four days are generally occupied in 
the journey from Cairo to Suez. In 
going by Derb el-Besatin, four days 
will be required in addition to the one 
on which we leave the city. 


SuEz, 


Suez is a modern town, which ap- 
pears to have sprung up within the 
last three centuries. The first men- 
tion of it is by the Arab author Ben 
Ayas, in the year 4.p. 1516. About 
20 years later a fleet was built here by 
Sultan Suleiman. It continued to be 
a small and insignificant place down 
to a late period, when, owing to its im- 
portance as an entrepét to Egypt from 
the East, it became more populous. It 
how contains about 1400 Inhab., 150 


Route 1.—Suez.— Passage of Red Sea. 


Sect. I. 


of whom are Greek Christians, and the 
rest Muslems. It is best known to the 
Englishman as the place where the 
Indian passengers embark for their 
voyage down the Red Sea on their long 
journey eastward. For their accom- 
modation a hotel has been established 
in the town. There is here also an 
agent of the Transit Company, who acts 
as English vice-consul. 

The town is situated on the angle 
of land between the broad head of the 
gulf, which here runs from east to west, 
and the narrow arm which runs up 
northward from its eastern comer. On 
the land side it is shut in by rickety 
walls, but is open toward the sea, 
where there is a good harbour, with a 
quay, for small craft. The Indian 
steamers lie off at the distance of some 
8 m. Within the walls are several 
open spaces. There is a little bazaar, 
or market, and one or two large khfns 
(caravanseries), 

About a quarter of a mile north of 
the town is a lofty mound of rubbish, 
which marks the site of the ancient 
Greek city of Klyema, and the later 
Kolzum, mentioned by Arab writers as 
the great port of the Red Sea. The 
city of Arsinde is supposed to haye 
stood at or near the same spot. 


PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA BY THE 
IsSRAELITES, 


Various traditions have located the 
scene of this miracle at various points 
extending nearly the whole length of 
the Gulf of Suez; but scholars are 
now chiefly divided between two—the 
opening of Wady Tawarik, and the 
immediate neighbourhood of Suez. 

The objection urged against the 
former is its great breadth—about 8 
m.; and the consequent difficulty, ifnot 
impossibility, of upwards of two mil- 
lions of people, with “very much 
cattle,” passing through such a space 
in part of a night. An objection 
against the latter is the shallowness of 
the water; as at low water there is a 
good ford near the town. Little stress 
can be laid on this, however, as the 
whole of the upper part of the gulf has 


SINAI 


been since changed in form, depth, 
and extent, by the drifting sands of 
the neighbouring desert. The position 
of Suez in other respects answers well 
enough to the description given in the 
Bible. The Israelites, when encamped 
there, would be hemmed in without 
any way of evcape practicable to such 
® multitude. The sea in front; the 
steep acclivities of Jebel ’Ataékah on 
the right; and the Egyptians behind. 
Each visitor to this deeply interesting 
place will form his own opinion as 
to the comparative merits of the two 
contested spots of passage. To him, 
however, who stands on some com- 
manding point near the town, and 
whose eye takes in the section of the 
sea from the bold cape of ’Ataékah to 
the shallows of the-northern arm, there 


can be no doubt that the scene of that | O 


wondrous miracle, and fearful act of 
vengeance, is within the range of vi- 
sion. Here imagination can enact over 
again that awful dy, when Moses, 
turning back on the eastern shore, 
stretched out his rod over the waters, 
and the sea returned in its strength, 
and the proud host of Pharaoh was 
engulfed beneath the waves, 


ScEz To Wavy ET-TalyIBEH—28 hrs, 
It is the usual practice to send the 
camels, luggage, and servants round 
the head of the gulf, with orders to one 
part of them to pitch the tents at’Ayfin 
Masa, and the other to take the 
riding dromedaries to a point on the 
shore opposite the town. The travel- 
ler then crosses in a boat, mounts his 
animal, and proceeds to the encamp- 
ment, about 3 m. distant. Such as 
wish to see the country round the head 
of the gulf may pursue that route, and 
explore the site of Arsinée, and the 
mounds of the ancient canal, 14 hr. 
from Suez. The traces of the canal 
are very distinct ; the banks being still 
more than 5 ft. high, and from 30 to 
40 yds. apart. It ran through an open 
plain in a northerly direction. The 
time may yet come when it will be 
again open to the fleets of the West. 
The distance by the land route from 
Suez to ’Aydn Masa is 6 hra. 20 min. ; 


Route 1.—Suez to Wady et-Tatyibeh. 


Il 


while the direct route is only about 
14 h. The latter, however, involves 
the necessity of employing a boat, 
and of being carried a considerable 
distance on men’s shoulders through 
the shallow water to the beach on 
the opposite side. 


"Ayin Misa—the so-called “ Wells 
of Moses "—are small brackish foun- 
tains, springing up in the desert plain, 
about 2 m. inland. According to a 
Muslem tradition, Moses brought u 
the water by striking the ground wi 
his stick. Dr. Robinson counted seven 
distinct springs, others more recently 
have made out seventeen ; but most of 
them are mere holes in the sandy soil, 
containing a little discoloured water— 
more properly puddles than fountains. 
ne of them is built up of massive 
ancient masonry. The water leaves a 
calcareous deposit, like the great foun- 
tains of Tyre, and this, having accu- 
mulated during long ages, has formed 
a little mound. <A few stunted palm- 
trees cluster round it; and a few ta- 
marisks bear them company, which 
they much need in this lonely spot, for 
the desert spreads all around bleak 
and bare as the sea itself. This is 
the traditional site of the landing of 
the Israelites after that fearful night's 
journey; and the place where they 
turned to look beck on the engulfed 
host of Pharaoh could not have been 
very far distant. Here perhaps the 
Israelitish leader obtained a scanty 
supply of water to refresh his wearied 
followers, so that his name has evcr 
since clung to the spot. Here, or not 
far distant, “ Moses and the children 
of Israel” sang their song of triumph : 
—*TI will sing unto the Lord, for he 
hath triumphed gloriously: the horse 
and his rider hath he thrown into the 
sea.” (Ex. xv. 1-19.) Here, ornot far 
distant, Miriam his sister, and all the 
women with her, went out “ with tim- 
brels and with dances’ Ss 20 21), 
si and responding, par party; 
just os the Arab maidens still do in 
seasons of rejoicing. It is worthy of 
note, as showing perhaps the remote 
antiquity of Arab music, that the 
words in the Hebrew correspond pre- 


12 | Route 1.—Suez to 


cisely to the notes of the chants and 
responses which I have a hundred 
times heard, on marriage occasions and 
other festivals, in the villages of Syria. 
At such times the women range them- 
selves into two bands ; one band leads 
by chanting a short sentence, accom- 
panying it by clapping the hands ; the 
other band immediately responds in 
the same manner ; and thus the concert 
proceeds sometimes for hours toge- 
ther, the notes being still the same, 
though the words may occasionally be 
changed. 

The bleak limestone ridge of Rabah 
is now full in view, bounding the 
parched desert on the left. One peak, 
which rises conspicuously from its uni- 
form line, forming something like a 
feature in the dreary landscape, is 
called Taset Sudr, “ the cup of Sudr.” 
On the right is the bread belt of the 
Gulf of Suez, blue as the firmament 
which it reflects; and away beyond it 
are the African hills. The only green 

spot in the wide expanse is that be- 
side us round the wells of Moses. The 
plain declines gently from the base of 
to the shore of the gif; it is 
slightly undulating, intersected here 
and there by shallow wadys ‘and low 
sand-ridges. Its surface is composed 
of tertiary sandstone, with cretaceous 
rocks often protruding. On the whole, 
it forms a bleak enough introductio& to 
“that great and terrible wilderness.” | 


The traveller is now fairly launched . 


on the desert of Asia, and begins to 
feel alike the sweets and the privations 
of desert life. His heart bounds with 
the consciousness of complete freedom; 
but he moistens his parched lips with 
muddy, “ bitter” water, that he would 
dash from him with disgust in any 
country of Europe. The following 
graphic sketch of the details of desert 
travelling is drawn by a pen often 
wayward and pedantic, but occasionally 
gifted with rare descriptive power. 
It may not be unacceptable in the 
way of “hints” to the wayfarer, and 
information to the reader and stayer 
at home :—“ At 4 o'clock in the morn- 
ing or earlier (?) Alee brought a light 
into our tent. Our tin basins had 
been filled the night before, and a 


Wady et-Taiyibeh, Sect. I. 


pitcher of water and tin cups placed 
on the table. I always slept in what 
is called Levinge’s bag,—an inexpres- 
sible comfort. (See Handbook for 
Egypt, p.3.) Without it I believe I 
should scarcely have slept at all; but, 
as it was, I lay down every night, ab- 
solutely secure from insects of every 
kind. The fiies might hang in clus- 
ters, like bees, on the tent-pole; the 
beetles might run over the floor, and 
the earwigs hide themselves under the 
counterpane, and fleas skip among the 
camel furniture; in my bag, under its 
wide airy canopy, I was safe from them 
all, and from fancies about them. 
It did not take me above five minutes 
in the day to put up and take down 
my canopy; a small price to pay for 
comfort and good sleep. As soon as 
we opened our tent-door, while I was 
taking down my bag, and the gimlets 
which, screwed into the tent-poles, 
served usfor pegs to hang our things on, 
Alee carried out our table and its tres- 
sels and the camp-stools,and A basis laid 
the cloth for an open-air breakfast.” 
(Instead of the gintlets I recommend 
short straps of strong leather, with 
little hooks attached to them, One or 
two of them can be easily fastened 
round the tent-pole, or to. the cords at 
the side, and they are excellent for 
clothes, instruments, arms, watch, &c.). 
“ We sat down to it at 5 or. on after, 
when the stars were growing pale, an 
the translucent dawn began fo shine 
behind the eastern ridges, or perhaps 
tp disclose the sheeny sea. Whil e we 
Were at our meal we saw one after an- 
other of the other four parties come 
forth from their tents and sit down to 
table:”’ 

The tents now come down in rapid 
succession, and those who like a morn- 
ing walk may set out in advance while 
the servants are loading the camels. 
This affords excellent opportunity for 
more close examina tion of the geology, 

otany, geo y, or antiquities of 
each Tocalify.. PA little be, like a 
miniature knapsack, or a capacious 
pocket, may hold note-book, pencils, 
map, and any work of reference se- 
lected.—We trust red-backed ‘ Murray’ 
may henceforth prove the best, 


{ 


a ee ee 


ee ae 


Srmnal, 


“ At eleven o'clock,” continues Miss 
Martineau, “ Abasis rode up with his 
tin lunch-box, to supply each of us 
with bread, cold fowl, or a hard egg, 
and a precious orange; or, as oftener 
happened, we looked out at that time 
for some shadow from a chance shrub, 
or in arocky nook, where we might sit 
down to luncheon, while the baggage- 
camels went forwards. ... 

- * After 3 o’clock”’ (this is too early 
for most strong people; and, except 
where there is good shade, it is as 
bad, if not worse, to sit in the sun as 
to ride in it) “the sheikh and drago- 
man began to look about to choose 
our abiding-place for the night. Where 
the sheikh points, or stands, or plants 
his spear, there it is to be.”—This may 
be very poetical; but I would recom- 
mend the traveller to overlook the 
fine sentiment, and discard all idea of 
passive submission to the will of any 
sheikh, except when it is found conve- 
nient, The traveller ought himself to 
be commander-in-chief; the sheikh he 
may invest with the dignity of lieute- 
nant. “ Then, as the camels arrive, they 
kneel down and release their riders ... 
It required about half an hour to put 
up and furnish our tent. It was hard 
work to rear it, fix the poles, and drive 
in the pegs. Then Alee turned over 
every large stone within it, to disl 
scorpions, or other such enemies, This 
done, and the floor a little smoothed, 
he brought in our iron bedsteads and 
bedding, and the saddle-bags which 
held our clothes. Next came the mats ; 
—two pretty mats, brought from Nu- 
bia, which covered the greater part of 
the floor. Then the table was placed 
in the middle, and camp-stools were 
brought; and basins of water, and a 
pitcher and cup.” 


"Ain Hawérah, “the Fountain of 
Destruction,” 164 h. from Ain Masa, 
is the next fountain, and the next point 
of any importance in this dreary plain, 
where the sight of a shrub, or even 


_ @ projecting rock, forms quite an in- 


cident for the traveller's note-book. 
The water of the fountain is “bitter,” 
and, like that of ’Ain Masa, it leaves 
a calcareous deposit, Around are a 


Route 1.—Suez to Wady et-Taiyibeh. 


13 


few stunted palms, and a little thicket 
of the thorny ghirkid (Nitraria tri- 
dentata). The situation of this spring, 
and the character of its waters, sug- 
gest its identity with the Marah (bit- 
ter) of Scripture (Ex. xv. 23)— 
“So Moses brought Israel from the 
Red Sea, and they went out into the 
wilderness of Shar; and they went 
three days” (corresponding well enough 
to our 164 h.) “in the wilderness and 
found no water. And when they came 
to Marah they could not drink of the 
waters of Marah, for they were bitter.” 
See also Num. xxxiii. 8, 9.) And 
should the thirsty traveller hasten for- 
ward now to drink at the fountain, 
his Arabs will restrain him by the 
cry “ Mirr! Murr!” “ Bitter! bitter!” 
reminding him more forcibly than 
agreeably of the disappointed Israel- 
ites, This then is the fountain whose 
bitter waters were miraculously ren- 
dered palatable by throwing into it a 
desert shrub. It has been suggested 
that the fruit of the ghirkid was 
employed for this purpose; and it 
might probably produce the desired 
effect, as it is acidulous. But there are 
two serious objections to the theory— 
first, the plant was only in flower 
when the Israelites passed (immedi- 
ately after the Passover), and they 
must consequently have waited some 
two months for the fruit to ripen; 
and second, the whole desert of Sinai 
would not grow as much of the fruit 
as would acidulate a drink for two 
millions of people. 


Wady Ghirundel, 2h., is the next 
water station. The fountains are half 
an hour farther down the valley, and 
form one of the chief watering-places 
in the whole region. From Marah 
the Israelites “came to Elim, where 
were twelve wells of water, and three- 
score and ten palm-trees; and they 
encamped there by the waters.” (Ex. 
xv. 27.) A better place for an en- 
campment could not be found in all 
this desert plain than Wady Ghirun- 
del, and I can scarcely think the 
weary host: would have passed such 
an inviting spot. This then may 
safely be identified with Hlim. The 


« 


14 Route 1.— Wady et-Taiyibeh to Sinai. 


whole desert is almost absolutely bare 
and barren, but Wady Ghiirundel is 
fringed with trees and shrubs, formi. 
a charming oasis. Here are the stunt 
palms, with their hairy trunks and 
ishevelled branches. Here, too, are 
the feathery tamarisks, with gnarled 
boughs, their leaves dripping with 
what the Arabs call manna ; and here 
is the acacia, with its gray foliage and 
bright blossoms, tangled by its desert 
growth into a thicket. Pleasant is the 
acacia to the sight wearied by the 
desert glare, but it has a higher and 
holier interest as the tree of the 
“Burning Bush,” and the “shittim- 
wood” of the Tabernacle. 

On the southern side of Wady Ghi- 
rundel the mountainous region may 
be said to commence. On the right, 
near the coast, is Jebel Hummam, “the 
Hill of the Bath”—dark, desolate, 
but picturesque in outline. It re 
ceives its name from a warm sulphu- 
reous fountain which springs up from 
2 cretaceous stratum at its base. The 
temperature of the water is about 
170° Fahr. The steep cliffs of the 
mountain side rise almost perpendi- 
cularly out of the sea, so as to cut off 
all passage in that direction. The 
Israelites must, consequently, have 
pursued their way along its eastern 
base. On ascending to the elevated 
ground on the left bank of Wady 
Ghirundel, the lofty rounded peak of 
Jebel Serbal appears for the first time, 
far away in front, overtopping all its 
fellows. 


Wady Useit, 24 h. from Wady Ghi- 
rundel, has a few brackish fountains 
and groves of palms and tamarisks, 
and has been thought by some to be 
the Elim of Scripture. Such as de- 
sire to visit the hot springs of Jebel 
Hummam, called the “ Baths of Pha- 
raoh,” should pass down Wady Ghi- 
rundel, and return to the main road 
by Wady Useit. Continuing in the 
same direction for 4 h. more, we reach 
an open space among the low ridges, 
where Wady el-Humr joins Shubei- 
keh, and the two united form Wady 
Taiyibeh. Here the road branches, 
each branch leading to the Convent 


Sect. I. 


of Sinai by a different route: the 
one runs up Wady Humr, passes the 
curious ruins and sculptures of Su- 
rabit el-Khadim, traverses Debbet er- 
Ramleh, and is perhaps the easiest 
road, though rather longer than the 
other; the other turns down Wady 
Taiyibeh to the sea, and afterwards 
winds through Wady Mukatteb, past 
the sublime. peak of Serbal, Sinai’s 
rival. The latter we shall first fol- 
low; and afterwards describe the for- 
mer, 


Waby ET-TAIvYIBEH TO SINAI BY 
Wavy MvuxatrEs—304 h. From the 
point where the road branches to the 
opening of Wady Taiyibeh, on the 
plain at the sea, is just 2h. There 
can be little doubt that this is where 
the Israelites encamped “by the sea” 
after removing from Elim. (Num. 
xxxiii, 10.) The distance is about 
16 m., and could be easily accom- 
plished by the head-quarters of the 
host; the great body must have been 
considerably scattered for the sake of 
pasturage. No spot more beautiful 
than this little sea and cliff-girt plain 
could have been selected for the en- 
campment—the hill-sides around di- 
versified by almost every variety of 
form and colour ; the lofty peaks of the 
Sinai mountains towering to the sky 
in stern majesty away in the distance ; 
and the deep blue sea in front, bound- 
ed on the horizon by the Egyptian 
hills. There is water, too; such, at 
least, as the peninsula generally af- 
fords — bitter and brackish. Mr. 
Stanley is particularly happy in his 
description of this interesting spot, 
and the ravine that leads to it :—‘ We 
passed a third claimant to the title of 
Elim, the Wady Taiyibeh, palms, and 
tamarisks, venerable as before; then 
down one of those river-beds, between 
vast cliffs, white on the one side, and 
on the other of a black calcined co- 
lour, between which burst upon us 
once more the deep blue waters of the 
Red Sea, bright with their white foam. 
Beautiful was that brilliant contrast, 
and more beautiful and delightful 
still to go down upon the beach and 


~ 


SINAI. 


see the waves breaking on that shell- 


strewn weed-strewn shore, and pro- | K 


montory after promontory breaking 
into those waters right and left: most 
delightful of all the certainty—I be- 
lieve I may here say the certainty 
(thanks to that inestimable verse in 
Num. xxxiii)—that here the Israel- 
ites, coming down through that very 
valley, burst upon that very view,— 
the view of their old enemy and old 
friend, that mysterious sea, and one 
more glimpse of Egypt dim in the 
distance in the shadowy hills beyond 
it. Above the blue sea rose the white 
marbly terraces, then blackened by 


Route 1.— Wady et-Tatyibeh to Sinat. 15 


right, along the desolate plain of 
&'a 


24 h. of constant climbing brings us 
to the termination of this splendid 
gorge, in which red sandstone cliffs rise 
up on each side, leaving, in some places, 
but a narrow track between. In 
+h. more we scale the mountain 
staircase called Nukb B&dereh, “the 
pass of the sword’s point.” For an- 
other hour the road winds down 
through Wady Badereh, and then en- 
ters the celebrated Wady Mukatteb, 
“the Written Valley.” But just at the 
point of junction, on the left, will be 
observed the opening of a wild gorge 


the passage of the vast multitude. | called 


High above those terraces ranged the 
brown cliffs of the desert, streaked 
here and there with the purple bands 
which now first began to display 
themselves. And as the bright blue 
sea formed the base of the view, so it 
was lost above in a sky of the deepest 
blue that I have ever observed in the 
ast.” 

From the mouth of the wady the 
camp of the Israelites may have ex- 
tended beyond the low sandstone 
ridges and bluffs of Zelima, into the 
fine plain of Murkhah on the other 
side, where there is a fountain. The 
road turns along the shore, crosses the 
headland of Zelima, and then sweeps 
round some low @iffs against which 
the waves dash at high water. In a 
little over 2 h. we enter the triangular 
plain of Murkh&h; across which the 
road passes 2 h. more to the mouth 
of Wady Shellal. To the left, about 
half way across the plain, may be seen 
the entrance of a sublime chasm, di- 
viding the red cliffs to their base,— 
it is called Dhafary ; and half an hour 
N.W. of it is the “bitter” fountain 
of Murkhah. We now dive in among 
the wild strangly-coloured mountains, 
through the open mouth of Wady Shel- 
141 : the red summits rise far overhead 
from bases of dark green; shrubby 
palm-trees nestle beneath the top- 
pling cliffs; while the fresh caper- 
plant hangs in festoons from the renta 
and cavities in their sides. Just 
before entering the valley we see 
the road to Tér striking off to the 


Wady Maghérah, “the Valley of the 
Cave,” whose singular caverns, and 
more singular sculptures, deserve a 
closer examination than has yet been 
given them. The antiquarian will 
luxuriate in such a spot as_ this, 
looking back through the dim spec- 
tacles of showman-like sculptures, and 
queer hieroglyphics, into the misty 
ages of remote antiquity. But far 
though the antiquary may look back, 
the geologist will as far outstrip him, 
for he will tell us of the formation, 
countless centuries back, of those 
veins of ore, which the sculpture-carv- 
ing miners came here to dig out and 
carry off to Egypt. The valley was 
first visited by Laborde, who states 
that the “rock has been worked for 
the purpose of extracting from it the 
copper found in the freestone. A lon 
subterraneous series of pillars form 
in the rock, and now encumbered by 
the rushing in of the rains, and of the 
sand which has there found refuge, 
still exhibits traces of the labours for- 
merly prosecuted in that direction.” 
Lepsius was here more recently, and 
found high up on the northern cliff 
remarkable Egyptian hieroglyphic in- 
scriptions, belonging to the earliest 
monuments of the antiquities of that 
country :—* Already, under the fourth 
dynasty of Manetho, the same which 
erected the great pyramids of Gizeh, 
4000 B.c. (?), copper-mines had been 
discovered in this desert, which were 
worked by a colony. The peninsula 


16 


was then inhabited by the Asiatic, 
probably Semitic races; therefore do 
we often see in those rock sculptures 
the triumphs of Pharaoh over the 
enemies of Egypt, Almost all the in- 
scriptions belong to the old empire; 
only one was found of the coregenc 
of Tothmosis III. and his sister.” 
This Tuthmo, or Thothmes, was a 
great architect, and a cotemporary of 
Moses, so that all, or almost all, 
these hieroglyphic tablets were of an 
earlier date than the Exodus! One 
of the inscriptions contains the name 
of Suphis, or Cheops, who built the 
great pyramid, and lived, according 
to the common chronology, 200 years 
before Abraham! Some of Dr. Lep- 
sius’ dates almost rival those of the 
antiquarian disciples of Confucius in 
the Gelostial Empire ; but still, making 
an Arab allowance for numbers, we 
must regard these inscriptions on the 
cliffs of Wady Magharah as among 
the most remarkable and most ancient 
in the world. Recommending them 
to the attention of the traveller, and 
especially the scholar, we pass on to 
other mysteries of this wild region. 


Wady Mukatteb, “the Written Val- 
ley,” begins at the place where Wady 
Magharah falls in on the left to Wady 
Badereh. The lower section of this 
valley gets the name Sidry, or, ac- 
cording to Burckhardt, Saih Sidr (the 
torrent of Sidr). Its bed is hollowed 
out in the freestone strata which lie 
at the base of the granite peaks: The 
action of water, and of the elements, 
has served during the course of long 
ages to undermine the sandstone ; the 
superincumbent masses, being thus 
left without support, and having little 
tenacity, fall away, leaving behind a 
smooth and uniform surface: such 
seems to have been the natural pro- 
cess by which tablets were prepared 
for future inscriptions. The general 
aspect of the valley now is—lofty un- 
interrupted walls of sandstone, backed 
at some distance by rugged granite 
peaks, and having along their bases 
detached masses of rock, like a bar- 
rier, or breakwater. The name of the 
valley, Mukatteb, “the Written,” is de- 


Route 1.—Sinaitic Inscriptions, 


Sect. I, 


rived from the extraordinary number 
of inscriptions found in it. In the 
first division of the wady the inscrip- 

tions are not so numerous; but after 

traversing it for 14 h. the rocks on 

each side seem covered with them. 

They oceur both on the smooth walls 

of the cliffs, and on the broken frag- 

ments along their bases. 


THE SINAITIC INSCRIPTIONS. 


Such is the generic name given to 
those mysterious inscriptions found 
chiefly on the cliffs of Wady Mukatteb, 
and also in many other parts of the 
peninsula of Sinai. Do not tremble, 
gentle reader, and shut up the book in 
horror, at the mention of such a name. 
I have really no thought of inflictin 
on you a disquisition mysterious and 
unintelligible as the inscriptions them- 
selves. I will not be tempted even to 
suggest a new theory, though it might 
not be difficult to invent one quite as 
plausible as some of those which have 
been set before the world, groaning 
under a mass of learning. May it not 
be, after all, that they were just written 
by some remote generation of “ wags,” 
for the sole purpose of puzzling pos- 
terity? I would beg to warn the 
reader, however, that in venturing on 
such ‘a profound @gggestion I do not 
lay claim to originality; for I have 
seen (I forget when or where) a simi- 
lar theory set forth by some learned 
antiquarian in reference to the “round 
towers” of Ireland. I shall here 
only attempt to put my reader in pos- 
session of the leading facts known 
about the Sinaitic inscriptions, and 
what I believe to be the most platisible 
theory of their origin, age, and object. 
The question is still sub judice; and 
in all probability is likely to remain 
BO. Phat the reader, who fa it, 
ma ve an opportunity of judgi 
for himself, I refer hin to Foster's 
Votce of Israel from the Rocks of Sinai ; 
Bunsen’s Christianity and Mankind, 
vol. iii. They.are also noticed in Robin- 
son's Biblical Researches, and Stanley's 
Sinai and Palestine. 

The inscriptions are first mentioned 


SINAI 


(about a.p. 535) by Cosmas, who sup- 
_posed them to be the work of the Is- 
raelites. They are also referred to by 
several early travellers, as Neitzschitz 
and Monconys. Pococke and Niebuhr 
attempted to copy them, but with little 
success ; Seetzen and Burckhardt were 
more accurate in their transcripts. 
In the Transactions of the Royal So- 
ciety of Literature (vol. iii. p. 1, 1832) 
may be seen 177 of them carefully en- 
graved ; nine of these are Greek, and 
one is Latin; the rest are all of that 
peculiar character which recent pa- 
lesographists, as Beer, have denomi- 
nated Nabathean. They are accom- 
panied, wherever they occur, with rude 
figures of men with shields, swords, 
bows and arrows; of camels and 
horses ; of goats and ibexes with horns 
wondrously exaggerated; of ante- 
lopes pursued by greyhounds; of liz- 
ards and tortoises ; besides a number of 
nondescripts which will puzzle the 
zoologist. They are met with in al- 
most every part of the mountainous 
region of the peninsula, in groups and 
singly ; but Wady Mukatteb is their 
-head-quarters. Lepsius occasional] 
found them engraven over older Gree 
names. Crosses are often found com- 
bined with them, evidently of the same 
age. It is somewhat singular too that 
inscriptions in the same character oc- 
cur amid the ruins of Petra, and once 
at least on the southern border of 
Palestine. A recent explorer has 
also found great numbers of them in 
the desert plain of Harrah, E. of Jebel 
Hauran. 

Professor Beer, of Leipzig, has exa- 
mined them with great care and con- 
structed an alphabet. The results of 
the researches of this distinguished 
scholar are as follows :—1. The alpha- 
bet is independent ; some of the letters 
are unique, others like the Palmyrene, 
Estrangelo, and Cufic. They are writ- 
ten from left to right. 2. The con- 
tents of the inscriptions, so far as ex- 
amined, consist only of proper names, 
preceded by some such words as nowy 
* peace,” 395% “in memory,” and 95 
“ blessed.” “The word 375 “ priest ” fs 
sometimes found after them. The 
names are those common in Arabic ; 


Route 1.—Sinaitic Inscriptions. 


17 


not one Jewish or Christian name has 
yet been found. 3. The language is 
supposed to be the Nabathean, spoken 
by the inhabitants of Arabia Petrea. 
4, The writers the professor affirms to 
have been pilgrims. The great num- 
ber of them around Serbil leads to the 
supposition that that mountain was 
once a holy place. That some of the 
writers were Christian is evident from 
the crosses. 5. The age of the inscrip- 
tions he supposes to be not earlier 
than the 4th century. Had they been 
later some tradition respecting them 
would probably have existed in the 
time of Cosmas. 

With all that has been done, there 
still remains much to be determined. 
Tuch, another distinguished German 
scholar, considers them to be Arabic, 
and of date antecedent to the Christian 
era ; but the following sentences from 
the accurate pen of Mr. Stanley seem 
to render this view untenable, at least 
as applied to all the inscriptions ; while 
it shows that they are not confined, 
as many have supposed, to the portions 
of the peninsula west of Sinai :—‘“I 
have seen them in the following places: 
First, in the Wady Sidri, the Wady 
Megfira (Magharah), and in great 
numbers in the Wady Mokatteb. 
Secondly, a few in the lower parts of 
Wady Feirain.~ Thirdly, in consider- 
able numbers up the Wady Aleyat, and 
five or six in the Wady Abou Hamad, 
and three on the summit of Mount 
Serbal. Fourthly, in the Wady Solab 
(Solaf), three or four, and in great 
numbers in Nakb-Howy. This valley 
and pass form together the lower road 
between Serbal and Sinai. Fifthly, 
in great numbers in the Leja, up to the 
first ascent of the ‘Shik-Mousa,’ or 
ravine by which you mount St. Cathe- 
rine. ixthly, on the high table 
plain, called Hertmat Haggag, between 
the Wady Say4l and the Wady el-’Ain ; 
the rock which stands at the end of 
this plain has more in proportion than 
any other spot I have seen, and there 
are some in the sandstone labyrinths 
near it. Seventhly, a few on the stair- 
case leading up to the Deir at Petra, 
and apparently on the ‘isolated co- 
lumn’ in the plain, (Some of our 


18 


fellow travellers also found them in a 
tomb near the theatre). Eighthly, on 
the broken columns of a ruin at or 
near the ancient Malatha, immediately 
before entering the hills of Judsa. 

“Their situation and appearance is 
such as in hardly any case requires 
more than the casual work of passing 
travellers. Most of them are on sand- 
stone: those of Wady Mokatteb, and 
Herimat Haggag, and Petra, of course 
are very susceptible of inscriptions. 
Those which are on granite are very 
rudely and slightly scratched. At 
Herimat Haggag one of us scooped out 
a horse, more complete than any of 
these sculptured animals, in ten mi- 
nutes. Again, none that I saw, unless 
it might be a very doubtful one at 
Petra, required ladders or machinery 
of any kind. Most of them could be 
written by any one who, having bare 
legs and feet, as all Arabs have, could 

e firm hold of the ledges, or by an 
active men even with shoes. I think 
there are none that could not have 
been written by one man climbing on 
another’s shoulders. Amongst the 
highest in Wady Mokatteb are single 
Greek names.” 

It will be seen from the above ex- 
tracts that these inscriptions chiefly 
occur in public thoroughfares, and on 
the routes to particular localities—as, 
for example, Serbal, the Leja, and the 
Deir at Petra; that they are all of 
such a character as leads us to sup- 
pose them to be the work of mere pass- 
ing travellers ; and that the drawings 
of animals connected with them are so 
rude, and even ludicrous, that it seems 
impossible to invest them with any 
serious signification. I shall only add 
an extract from Mr. Stanley’s remarks 
as to their probable age and object, as 
it seems generally to corroborate the 
results of Professor Beer’s investiga- 
tions :—“ As regards their antiquity I 
observed the following data. There was 
great difference of age, both in the pic- 
tures and letters, as indicated by the 
difference of colour; the oldest, of 
course being those which approached 
most nearly to the colour of the rock. 
But, first, 1 found none on fallen rocks 
inverted, and, though I doubt not that 


Route 1.—Sinaitic Inscriptions. 


Sect. I. 


there may be such, the sandstone 
crumbles so rapidly that this is no 
proof of age. A famous Greek inscrip- 
tion at Petra fell in 1846. Secondly : 
they are intermixed, though not in 
great numbers, with Greek and Arabic, 
and in one or two instances Latin in- 
scriptions, these in some cases bearing 
the same appearance of colour, wear 
and tear, as the Sinaitic. Thirdly : 
those Greek inscriptions which alone 
I could read were chiefly the names of 
the writers. The only Latin inscrip- 
tion which I remember was in the 
sandstone rocks near Herimat Haggag, 
—Pertus. Fourthly: crosses of all 
kinds were very numerous and con- 
spicuous, standing usually at the be- 
ginning of the inscriptions, and (what 
is important) occurring also and in 
the same position before those written 
in Greek and Arabic; often nothing 
but the cross, sometimes the cross with 
Alpha and Omega. These last were 
in the same place where I noticed the 
Latin inscription, of the same colour 
as the contiguous Sinaitic characters. 
From having previously seen that Fos- 
ter and Tuch had united in the conclu- 
sion that the hypothesis of their being 
Christian inscriptions was groundless, 
and that the alleged appearance of 
crosses was a mistake, I was the more 
surprised to find them in such num- 
bers, and of such a character; and 
however else they may be explained, I 
can hardly imagine a doubt that they 
are the work, for the most part, of 
Christians, whether travellers or pil- 
grims. They are in this case curious, 
and, if their object could be ascertained, 
would throw great light on the tradi- 
tions of the peninsula ; but it cannot 
be reconciled with the theory of their 
being the work of the Israelites. If the 
date of the columns at Malatha could be 
ascertained, or of the temple and tomb 
at Petra where they occur, the ques- 
tion would be settled. The two latter, 
I presume, cannot be older than the 
Roman dominion of Arabia.” Such is 
the amount of our knowledge regard- 
ing these singular inscriptions. ‘The 
traveller now knows where to find 
them. There is besides an isolated 
mountain on the shore of the Red Sea, 


SINAl, 


called Jebel Mukatteb, on which in- 
scriptions are found. Those who wish 
to see what they are like, without the 
trouble of a journey to Sinai, may con- 
sult the works above referred to. 


Mines are found in various parts of 
the peninsula of Sinai. Those of 
Wady Magharah have already been 
alluded to. Dr. Wilson seems to have 
discovered others in the granite mount- 
ains east of Wady Mukatteb, which 
might repay a more minute examina- 
tion. So far as can be gathered from 
his somewhat confus description, 
they lie about 2 h. distant nearly due E. 
from the place where the greatest body 
of inscriptions ceases on the western 
side of the wady. From the distance 
the Doctor was struck with the ap- 
pearance of metallic veins in the naked 
hill-sides, running up to their sum- 
mits like bars or ribs, On approaching 
them, the hill in front, which he was 
obliged to pass, was partially covered 
with débris and slag, intermixed with 
fragments of stone mortars and fur- 
naces, used for pounding and smelting 
the ore. He found the sides of the 
mountain “peeled and excavated to a 
great extent where the veins and dykes 
had occurred.” Numerous grooves and 
channels were cut, even to the top of 
the mountain where most precipitous, 
for the extraction of the ore. The 
stone is a felspathic porphyry, “with a 
dark coating upon it, probably arising 
from the presence of copper.” He 
found what appeared to be a few par- 
ticles of gold in the sands not far dis- 
tant. Could it have been the mines of 
the peninsula Job referred to ?— 


’ “Surely there is a mine for the silver, 


And a place for gold, where they fine it. 
Tron is taken out of the earth, 
And copper is molten out of the stone.. .. 
As for the earth, out of it confeth bread ; 
And under it is turned up as it were fire. 
The stones of it are the place of sapphires ; 
And it hath dust of gold. .... 
He putteth forth his hand upon the rock ; 
He overturneth the mountains by the roots ; 
He cutteth out channels among the rocks; 
And his eye seeth every precious thing.” 
Chap. xxviii, 


The total length of Wady Mukatteb 
is 3h. Half an hour’s ascent from it 


Route 1.—Mines.— Wady Feirdn. 19 


leads to a little elevated plain; and 
another hour, first across this plain, 
and then down a slight rocky declivity, 
brings the traveller into 


Wady Feirdn. At the point where 
our road strikes this valley it turns 
from its former course of N.W., and 
runs off W. by 8S. towards the sea. A 
lofty sandstone cliff rises up at the 
angle, and round this the traveller has 
to wind in coming from Wady Mukat- 
teb. Wady Feiran, up which our way 
now lies, runs for some 2 h. in nearl 
a straight line, and is tolerably level. 
The breadth varies from 400 to 600 

ds. It is sprinkled with sand, and 

as but little vegetation in this section. 
On entering it the cliffs on each side 
are sandstone, but this soon gives way 
to primitive rock,—gneiss and granite 
with porphyry veins and dykes. After 
2 h. the valley contracts, and winds 
considerably. In 3h. more the eye is 
refreshed by the sight of some bushy 
palms and verdant gardens, watered 
from a well at a place called Husseiyeh. 
About a mile farther the ruins of an 
ancient village may be seen on a moun- 
tain to the left. Burckhardt estimates 
the number of houses at about 100, 
and says the style of architecture is 
similar to that seen at St. Simon, north 
of Aleppo. Half an hour after passin 
this place we enter another an 
much larger -giove, with whose 
graceful branches the spreading tama- 
risk mingles ; a little streamlet winds 
through the thicket in its gravelly 
bed ; hoary tottering ruins cling to the 
rugged acclivities around; and thedark 
openings of rock-hewn hermitages dot 
the cliffs far overhead. This is Feiran, 
the paradise of the Bedawin, and the 
site of an early ecclesiastical city. Just 
opposite the ruined city is the mouth 
of Wady Aleiyat, a wild, picturesque 
glen, which winds away up southward 
to the base of Serbal, whose jagged 
summits are seen towering over all 
intervening cliffs. 


PaRaAN—Eeclesiastical City of Fa- 
ran.—It is probable that Feiran may 
be the Paran referred to in one or two 
places in the Bible. Moses, in giving 


20 Route 1.—Paran.—Serbdl. 


his dying blessing to the assembled 
Israelites, thus spake of the manifesta- 
tions of Divine Majesty at the time of 
the giving of the Law: “The Lord came 
from Sinai, and rose up from Seir unto 
them ; He shined forth from Mount 
Paran, and He camewith ten thousands 
of His saints; from His right hand 
went a fiery law for them.” (Deut. 
xxxiii.) And Habakkuk, in allusion 
to the same event, thus writes, ch. 
lil. :-— 
“ God came from Teman, 

And the Holy One from Mount Paran. 

His glory covered the heavens, 

And the earth was full of Hia praise, 

And His brightness was as the light ; 

He had horns coming out of His hand ; 

And there was the hiding of his power. .. 

He stood, and measured the earth ; 

He beheld and drove asunder the nations: 

And the everlasting mountains were scat- 


tered ; 
The perpetual hills did bow.” 


The rugged heights of Serbal, and the 
verdant vale of Feiran, around which 
sacred associations would seem for long 
centuries to have clung, might well 
deserve mention in a hymn so sublime. 
‘This Paran, however, must be dis- 
tinguished from another more fre- 
quently referred to in the Bible, which 
appears to have been somewhere on 
the southern border of Palestine. 
During the early history of monas- 
ticism in the peninsula of Sinai, when 
its wildest glens swarmed with ancho- 
rites, when every comfortless spot was 
religiously searched out, and when 
every wretched cave and gloomy grot 
was constituted the living tomb of 
saintly hermit—the sanctity and the 
beauty of Feiradn attracted to it a con- 
siderable Christian population. Before 
the year a.D. 400 it was honoured with 
a bishop and a council. In the 7th 
century one of its prelates, Theodorus, 
adopted Monothelitic views, and was 
consequently anathematized by the 
Lateran Council, a.p. 649. Connected 
with, and subject to, this see, were the 
numerous monasteries around Serbal 
and Sinai, and the 6000 hermits who 
are said to have “burrowed ” in the 
neighbouring mountains. But the con- 
vent of Sinai afterwards increased in 


co 


importance, and the episcopal chair | 


Sect. I. 


was transferred to it about the 11th 
centy. Feirin immediately began to 
decline, and, like many a nobler and 
greater city in Syria, fell to rise no 
more. 

There can be no doubt as to the 
identity of Faran with the present 
Feiran. MRiippell found here the ruins 
of a church, the architecture of which 
he ascribes to the 5th centy. Burck- 
hardt estimates the number of ruined 
houses at 200. His description of the 
site and remains is, as usual, clear and 
accurate :—* The valley of Feiran 
widens considerably where it is joined 
by Wady Aleiyat, and is about a quarter 
of an hour in breadth. Upon the moun- 
tains on both sides of the road stand 
the ruinsofan ancient city. The houses 
are small, but built entirely of stones, 
some of which are hewn, and some 
united with cement, but the greater 
part are piled up loosely. There are 
no traces of any large edifice on the 
north side, but on the southern moun- 
tain there is an extensive building, the 
lower part of which is of stone, and 
the upper part of earth.” Some have 
endeavoured to identify this part of 
Wady Feirin with Rephidim, where 
“Moses smote the rock,’’ and where 
Israel fought with Amelek (Ex. xvii., 
xix. 2; and Num. xxxiii. 14,15); but 
its distance from Sinai, from which Re- 
phidim was only a day's march, is fatal 
to the theory. 


Serpat next to Sinai is the most 
interesting mountain in the peninsula, 
It is even more grand and striking in 
outline than its honoured rival. It 
rises high above the neighbouring sum- 
mits,—* all in lilac hues and purple 
shadows,” as the morning sun sheds 
upon it his bright beams. “It is a 
vast mass of peaks, which, in most 
points of view, may be reduced to five. 
These are all of granite, and rise so 
precipitously, so column-like, from the 

roken ground which forms the roots 
of the mountain, as at first sight to ap- 
pear inaccessible.’”” They may be best 
likened to a cluster of stalactites in- 
verted. The peaks are divided by 
deep ravines, filled with huge frag- 
ments of shattered rock: the central 


SINAIL, 


ravine is called Abu Hamd, and by it 
the active traveller may, by the aid of 
a-guide, gain the summit in somewhat 
less than 4 hrs. The glorious view 
will amply repay the toil. “ The highest 
peak is a huge block of granite ; on this, 
as on the back of some petrified tortoise, 
you stand and overlook the whole pe- 
ninsula of Sinai. The Red Sea, with 
the Egyptian hills opposite, and the 
wide waste of the Ka’a on the south; 
the village and grove of Tar, just 
marked as a dark line on the shore; 
on the east the vast cluster of what is 
commonly called Sinai, with the peaks 
of St. Catherine, and, towering high 
above all, the less famous, but most 
magnificent of all, the Mont Blanc of 
those parts, the unknown and unvisited 
Um Shaumer. Every feature of the 
extraordinary conformation lies before 


Route 1.—Serbdl, 


21 


that he should have preferred to it the 
inhospitable, unsheltered position of 
the monkish Sinai. The reply to this 
is simple and conclusive : Moses had 
no choice in the matter. He was 
ided by Him who dwelt in the “ pil- 

ar of a cloud by day, and in the pillar 

of fire by night.” And by Him, too, 
the Israelites were miraculously sup- 
plied with bread from heaven, and, 
when occasion required it, with “ water 
from the rock.” The cattle of the Is- 
raelites could never have been depend- 
ent on a narrow valley for pasturage, 
and amid the glens and mountains of 
Sinai they would be as well supplied 
as around the peaks of Serbal. The 
only circumstances, therefore, that 
should be permitted to influence us in 
our opinion as to the position of Sinai, 
are the correspondence of the natural 


you ; the wadys coursing and winding | features, as we now see them, with the 


in every direction; the long crescent 
of the Wady esh-Sheikh ; the infinite 
number of mountains like a model, 
their colours all as clearly displayed 
as in Russegger’s geological map; the 
dark granite, the brown sandstone, the 
yellow desert, the dots of vegetation 
along the Wady Feiran. On the north- 
ern, and somewhat lower eminence, are 
the visible remains of a building, which 
may be of any date, from Moses to 
Burckhardt. It consists of granite 
fragments, cemented with lime and 
mortar; in the centre is a rough hole, 
and close beside it, on the granite 
rocks, are three of those mysterious in- 
gcriptions.” 

Attempts have been made of late 
years to identify Serbal with the 
Mount of the Law, the Sinai of Scrip- 
ture. Dr. Lepsius and Mr. Bartlett 
are the great champions of this theory. 
Their chief arguments may here be 
given, as the traveller will naturally 
wish to have full information on a 
subject of such interest. 1. Moses was 
intimately acquainted with the geo- 
graphy of the peninsula, or at least so 
intimately as to have heard of the fer- 
tility of Wady Feiran, and its natural 
fitness for the permanent camp of a 
great host. It is therefore inconceiv- 
able that he should have failed to avail 
himself of these great advantages, or 


descriptions in the Bible,—altogether 
independent of the natural productions. 
If we attempt any rationalistic com- 
promise between the miraculous and 
the natural, it is better, and more logi- 
cal too, to discard the sacred narrative 
atonce. I see no reason for believing 
any part of the history, if we deny the 
full miraculous agencies and interpo- 
sitions. 

2. We must suppose (say they) that 
the Amalekites would oppose the ad-- 
vance of the Israelites only where they 
had a fertile territory worthy of being 
disputed. This being so, then Re- 
phidim and Feirfn are identical ; and 
the “Mount of God’ must be close by. 
Our reply to this is no less simple and 
conclusive than the former; and, first, 
itis a non sequitur ; for, granting Feirain 
to be Rephidim, Serbal cannot be Sinai, 
if the Bible narrative be true. We read, 
“In the third month, when the chil- 
dren of Israel were gone forth out of. 
the land of Egypt, the same day came 
they into the wilderness of Sinai. For 
they were departed from Rephidim, and 
were come to the desert of Sinai, and 
had pitched in the wilderness; and 
there Israel camped before the mount,” 
The fertile portion of Feirin is within 
2m. of the base of Serbal, and some 
parts of it are in full view of the 
summit, Here must have been the 


22 


site of the camp “before the mount,” 
if Serb4l be the “Mount of God,” for 
Wady Aleiy&t, which leads up to the 
base of Serbal, is rugged, rocky, and 
wholly unsuitable for an encampment. 
Such being the case, how can we 
believe that Husseiyeh, scarcely two 
miles distant down the valley, can 
be the site of Rephidim, as Dr. 
Lepsius affirms? Would not any one 
naturally conclude from the words 
of the Bible narrative that Rephi- 
dim was some considerable distance 
from “the wilderness of Sinai”? <A 
camp containing two millions of poopie, 
having its head-quarters at Feiran, 
must, in such a narrow valley, have 
extended more than two miles on each 
side, and thus have still occupied Hus- 
seiyeh. But, second, is it not strange 
to identify Rephidim, where “there 
was no water,” with Husseiyeh or Fei- 
ran, the only well-watered spots in the 
eninsula, where there are not only 
iving fountains but a running stream ? 
How could the people here say to 
Moses, as they did at Rephidim, “ Give 
us water that we may drink.... 
Wherefore is this that thou hast 
brought us up out of Egypt, to kill us, 
and our children, and our cattle with 
thirst ?”’ (Ex. xvii.) And if, as seems 
to be insinuated, this water only flowed 
from the smitten rock, then there could 
have been no verdure or vegetation 
here previously, for these are the 
effects of the water; and, consequently, 
the basis of this, as well as the pre- 
vious argument, is a myth. If there 
‘was no water, and, therefore, no vege- 
tation, before Moses struck the rock, 
the Amalekites would not have re- 
garded it as “worthy of being dis- 
uted ;” and neither could Moses have 
own it as the “only fit spot in the 
whole desert capable of supplying the 
host of Israel with water, and such 
provision as the country afforded.” 
The narrative of the journeyings of 
the children of Israel, and of their 
“stations,” affords no evidence in fa- 
vour of the identification of Rephidim 
and Feirfn; in fact, it would rather 
lead to the supposition that Rephidim 
must have been farther eastward. From 
their encampment “ by the sea,” at the 


Route 1.—Serbddl. 


Sect. I. 


mouth of Wady Taiyibeh, they re- 
moved to the “ wilderness of Sin,” that 
is, the plain of Ka’a. They probably 
encamped near the entrance to Wady 
Kineh, an easy march from Taiyibeh. 
They then took their journey “out of 
the wilderness of Sin and encamped in 
Dophkah.” This place is not known, 
but it appears to have been somewhere 
among the mountains. The Israelites 
probably entered the mountain region 
Py Wady Kineh, or else by Wady~ 

eiran farther on—most probably the 
latter ; in either case another day’s 
journey would bring them to about the 
junction of the Mukatteb road with 

ady Feiran, which might thus mark 
the position of Dophkah. From Doph- 
kah they marched to Alush, perhaps 
the oasis of Feiran ; and from thence 
they went to Rephidim. From the 
encampment “by the sea” to Rephi- 
dim is thus four marches, and, reckoning 
each march at about 12 m., this would 
bring the Israelites far up into Wady 
esh-Sheikh, and to about an easy day's 
march from Jebel Masa (Sinai). 

Early history, as well as tradition, 
is in favour of Jebel Masa’s claim (or 
at least some peak near it) to be the 
true Sinai. The vast number of in- 
scriptions in Wady Mukatteb, and the 
existence of a few on the very summit 
of Serbal, are deemed, by some, proofs 
that this mountain was, at least at one 
time, considered to be the true Sinai. 
But we have seen that these inscrip- 
tions are found in many other parts of 
the peninsula, and great numbers on. 
the plateau E. by N. of Jebel Misa, 
while in Wady Leja near its base they 
are as numerous as in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Serbél. Faran was 
doubtless a holy city; and there may 
perhaps have been some very early 
tradition connected with the ifi- 
cent mountain that towers over it, to 
attract a crowd of pilgrims round it, 
and lead a few to the summit. Riip- 
pell has affirmed that the Arabs, who, 
it may be remarked, are stanch con- 
servatives, regarded Serbal as sacred, 
and occasionally offered up sacrifices 
there. Were there sufficient evidence 
of the truth of this, it would forma 
strong argument in favour, not of Ser- 


Siar. 


bal’s identity with Sinai, but of its 
having been the scene of some great 
event, or the site of some holy shrine, 
in remote ages. Mr. Stanley, however, 
has given an amusing account of his 
inquiries regarding the supposed tra- 
dition. His guide, an Arab from 
Feirin, well acquainted with the lo- 
cality, stated positively “that Arabs 
never pray or kill sheep on the top 
of Serbal sometimes, however (he 
added), travellers eat chickens there.’’ 

Leaving the mysterious peaks of 
Serb4l, and the delicious shade of the 
palm-groves of Feirin, we continue 
our pilgrimage to Sinai; our eagerness 
to view that “holy mountain,” and to 
seek solitude and meditation amid its 
sublime cliffs, only whetted by our 
exploration of Serbal. The thought, 
too, still occupies the mind, that every 
step we now tread was the scene of a 
miracle ; that every peak and precipice 
around was overshadowed by that 
“cloud ’’ which’ preceded and guided 
God’s people in their march ; and that 
some of those deep ravines and lofty 
crags were lighted up by that “ pillar 
of fire’ which hovered nightly over the 
encamped host. 


Manna.—During the first hour we 
wind through groves and gardens, 
where, in addition to the palm, the 
Arabs cultivate cucumbers, melons, 
onions, and tobacco; irrigating them 
from the wells in summer, and the 
stream in winter. Emerging from the 
palms, we enter a shrubbery of tama- 
yisks. This tree, or rather shrub, is 
found in most of the valleys of the 

eninsula, but is most abundant in 

adys Feirin and esh-Sheikh. The 
Arab name is Turfa; and the botanic 
Tamariz Gallica. It is from this plant 
the so-called manna (Arabicé Mon) is 
obtained, which some late German 
speculators have asserted to be the 
Scripture manna—the food of the Is- 
raelites for 40 years! According to 
the account given to Dr. Robinson by 
the superior of the convent of Sinai, 
“it is found in the form of shining 
drops on the twigs and branches (not 
the leaves) of the turfa, from which it 
exudes in consequence of the puncture 


Route 1.— Manna. 23 


of an insect of the coccus kind, Coccus 
manniparus. What falls upon the sand 
is said not to be gathered. It has the 
appearance of gum, is of a sweetish 
taste, and melts when exposed to the 
san or toa fire; The Arabe consider 
it as a great delicacy, and the pilgrims 
rize it highly, especially those from 
ussia, who pay a high price for it.”’ 
It is found only during the month of 
June, and is collected before sunrise. 
The Arabs boil and preserve it in 
skins, in which state it remains good 
for a year or more; small pots of it 
are kept for sale at the convent. 
Lepsius, Seetzen, Burckhardt, and 
others, seem really to believe that this 
gum was the food of the Israelites for 
40 years ;-and the former even argues 
that Moses, who was intimately ac- 
quainted with the whole country, 
guided the Israelites by the route best 
supplied with manna-bearing trees ! 
This is just a proof that a distinguished 
scholar may sometimes want common 
sense ; a moment's thought might have 
shown him that a shrub exuding a 
small quantity of gum during a Sow 
weeks of summer only, could not afford 
afresh daily supply to the Israelites ; 
and a moment's calculation might have 
proved to him that, so insignificant is 
the produce of each shrub, had the 
whole peninsula been a tamarisk 
thicket, the quantity yielded would 
have been insufficient to meet the 
wants of two millions of people. But, 
besides, the manna of Scripture is thus 
described : “ When the dew that lay 
was gone up, behold, upon the face of 
the desert a small round thing, small as 
the hoar-frost on the ground. . . And 
when the dew fell upon the camp in 
the night, the manna fell upon it.” 
(Ex. xvi. 14; Num. xi. 9.) There is 
not a word about a tree here; the 
manna lay upon the desert, and fell in 
and around the camp, wherever the 
dew fell. Of the characteristics given 
of the manna of the Bible not one is 
applicable to the gum of the tamarisk. 


After leaving the tamarisk-groves 
which form the outworks of the para- 
dise of Feiran, the way becomes dry 
and hot, and the vegetation of the 


24 Route 1.— Wady et-Tatyibeh to Sinai, 


wady subsides into the usual desert 
tufts. In 1 hr. the valley opens into 
two branches, enclosing between them 
an elevated, irregular plateau, or rather 
expanse of low hills : this is the proper 
head of Wady Feirin. The right 
branch, called Solaf, runs up nearly 
§.E. for some 44 hours, and then, meet- 
ing the great central group of moun- 
tains, sweeps round to the N.E., alon 
their base, for 14 h. more, to the wil 
pass of Nukb Hawy, which strikes off 
at right angles over the mountain to 
the plain of Rahah, Beyond this pass 
the wady continues a short distance 
N.E. The left branch is called Wady 
esh-Sheikh, and is the great channel 
which drains this section of the penin- 
sula. It runs first in a N.E. direction, 
and then, sweeping round in a semi- 
circle, penetrates the Sinai group of 
mountains at the base of Jebel Mésa. 
One road from Feirin to Sinai leads 
through Wady Solaf to the foot of Nukb 
Hawy ; another, but much longer one, 
follows Wady esh-Sheikh, and was 
doubtless the route of the Israelites ; 
but a third, the shortest and most 
common, runs up the latter valley 
nearly an hour, then striking eastward 
over the plateau, reaches the foot of 
Nukb Hawy in 5 hrs. more. 

In crossing the plates, the western 
part of the central mountain group is 
seen to great advantage. Dark frown- 
ing cliffs of granite rise in front, 1000 
ft. or more, like a cyclopean wall reared 
up to protect the sanctuary within. 
To the right and left they stretch far 
as the eye can see; while over them 
shoot, here and there, the sharp peaks 
of the inner mountains. 

Descending to the barren bed of 
Wady Solaf, we reach at last the foot 
of the defile called Nukb Hawy, “the 
Windy Pass,’’ which leads over this 
outer mountain wall to the recesses of 
Sinai. An hour’s comparatively gentle 
ascent, among loose mounds of white 
alluvial formation, the sediment of a 
thousand winter torrents, leads to the 
foot of the real pass. Here the weary 
traveller, on whose head an unclouded 
sun has for hours been pouring down 
streams of liquid fire, looks up with 
feelings of mingled doubt and awe at 


Sect. I. 


the sublime glen through which his 
path lies. It is shut in by black- 
ened, shattered cliffs of granite, which 
rise up in huge disjointed masses 
a thousand feet, and threaten every 
moment to send down their ruins 
on the devoted heads of such as 
would dare to advance. “The bottom 
is a deep and narrow watercourse, 


‘where the wintry torrent sweeps down 


with fearful violence. A path has 
been made for the camels along the 
shelving piles of rocks, partly by re- 
moving the topmost blocks, and some- 
times by laying down large stones side 
by side, somewhat in the manner of a 
Swiss mountain road.” In the spring- 
time a strcamlet, like a silver thread, 
winds among the huge fragments and 
scattered débris which time has hurled 
from the heights above; while here 
and there a feathery palm, or a grass- 
tuft, or a stray acacia, clings to the 
bank. And on the smooth surface of 
fallen rocks, or towering cliff, may be 
seen at intervals some of those myste- 
rious inscriptions which seem to court, 
Manfred-like, the wildest forms of Na- 
ture’s handiwork. Onward toils the 
poor camel with many a deep groan, 
and upward presses the traveller, re- 
invigorated at every step by the wild 
grandeur of the scenery, and the 
nearer approach to the spot where a 
full view of the “Mount of God”’ will 
reward his toil. 

In 1 h. we gain thesummit; but the 
path again enters a little defile and 
runs on to where it expands; and then 
after a few minutes’ ascent a vale gra- 
dually opens before us, shut in on the 
right and left by Jagged ridges ; and 
having away at the far end, rising ab- 
ruptly from its centre, the dark front 
of Mount Sinar. “As we advanced,” 
writes Dr. Robinson, whose description 
is as accurate as graphic, “the valley 
still opened wider and wider, with a 
gentle ascent, and became full of 
shrubs and tufts of herbs, shut in on 
each side by lofty granite ridges, while 
the face of Horeb (Sinai) rose directly 
before us. Both my companion and 
myself involuntarily exclaimed, “Here 
is room enough for a large encamp- 
ment!’’ Reaching the top of the as- 


SINAL 


cent or watershed, & fine broad plain 
a ore us, slopi own gently to- 
ward the 8.8.E., png erminated ai the 
distance of more than a mile by the 
bold and awful front of Horeb, rising 

rpendicularly in frowning majesty 
from 1200 to 1500 feet. It was a 
scene of solemn grandeur, wholly un- 
expected, and such as we had never 
seen; and the associations which at 
the moment rushed upon our minds 
were almost overwhelming. On the 
left of Horeb a deep narrow valley 
runs up 8.8.E. between lofty walls of 
rock, as if in continuation of the 8.E. 
corner of the plain. In this valley, at 
a distance of nearly a mile from the 
plain, stands the convent; and the 

eep verdure of its fruit-trees and 
cypresses is seen as the traveller a 
proaches—an oasis of beauty amid 
scenes of sternest desolation. At the 
S.W. corner of the plain the cliffs also 
retreat, and form a recess or open place 
extending from the plain westward for 
some distance. From this recess runs 
up a similar narrow valley on the west 
of Horeb, called el-Leja, parallel to 
that in which the convent stands; and 
in it is the deserted convent of el- 
Arb’ain.” 


Such is the topography of the plain 
of Réhah, whose very name, “Rest,” 
would seem to indicate the place where 
the Israelites encamped, after their 
weary journey, before the “Mount of 
God.” In every particular do the 
features correspond with the descri 
tions and incidents of the Bible. The 
peak of Sinai (now called Sufeéfeh) 
rises perpendicularly from the plain, 
like a gigantic embattled fortress, so 
that one can approach its base and 
“touch the mount,” The summit is 
visible from every part of the plain, so 
that those encamped there could dis- 
tinctly see the cloud descending and 
“resting upon the mount.” 

From the summit of Nukb Hawy to 
the convent is 2 hrs. 


Wapy TAIYIBEH TO SINAI, BY SURA- 
BIT EL-KHADIM, 
822 hrs.—T wo valleys unite to form 
[Syria and Palestine. } 


Route 1.— Wady et-Taiyibeh to Sinai. 


25 
Wady Taiyibeh: one coming in from 
the N. is called Shubeikeh; and the 


other from the 8.8S.E. Wady Hunmr. 
Up the latter we now march. It js 
wide, and, being shut in by limestone 
cliffs which reflect the sun's rays, has 
a temperature like a furnace. After 
2 hrs. the valley opens out into a 
plain ; and in front now rises the dark 
conical peak of Sarbat el-Jemel, which 
is ‘8 prominent object even as far west- 
ward as Wady Ghiirundel. The road 
strikes across the plain towards the 
S.E. angle of the mountain, where it 
enters (1 h. 40 min. farther) a wild, 
narrow gorge, like a huge fissure. Af- 
ter winding up this for a short distance 
the limestone strata on the right give 
place to the sandstone, which sepa- 
rates the calcareous from the granite 
mountains. About an hour after pass- 
ing Sarbft el-Jemel there is a curious 
sharp turn in the ravine, as if its cliffs 
had been disjointed; here, on the 
right, in the angle of the rock, are some 
rade drawings, with several Sinaitic 
inscriptions. One large block that has 
fallen from the mountain-side is almost 
covered with them. On a stone are 
two crosses, but apparently of a later 
date. “The spot is one,” remarks Dr, 
Robinson, “ where travellers would be 
likely to rest during the heat of the 
midday sun.” 

In about 1 h. 40 min. more the rocks 
that line the valley on the right disap- 

ar, and a rolling sandy plain called 

ebbet en-Nusb opens up to the S. 
and E. Across this p a path 
strikes off to a wady of the same name, 
in which, 2 hrs. distant, is a fountain of 
good water. This way is sometimes 
taken for the sake of the fountain, but 
it is longer than the regular one, which 
continues due E. along Wady Humr, 
skirting the lofty ridge of Jebel 
Watah. We reach the head of the 
wady inl h.45 min. The road now 
ascends to a rocky plateau, from which 
a commanding view is gained over 
Debbet er-Ramleh (the sandy plain) 
quite to the base of the range of Tih 
on the left. After crossing this pla 
teau, and several little wadys, a low 
ridge is surmounted, and suddenly the 
view of the great central mountain 

C 


26 


group of Sinai bursts upon us, while] sq 


the sharp peak of Serbal is seen more 
to the 8. The road now enters 
the “Sandy Plain” (1 h. 45 min.) ; 
but after traversing it for about half 
an hour, the path leading to Surabit 
el-Khédim strikes off to the right; 
and a toilsome journey of 2} hrs. over 
low hills and through deep vales, co- 
yered thickly with loose sand—a veri- 
table desert—brings us to the wild 
rocky dell at the foot of the hill on 
which are the monuments of Surabit 
el-Khadim. 


SurRABIT EL-KHADIM. 


The hill is about 700 ft. high, and 
is composed of red sandstone, curiously 
shaded with other hues, and rising up 
in bold cliffs and shattered masses. 
“A track leads up the toilsome and 
somewhat dangerous ascent, along the 
face of the precipice at the head of the 
ravine, marked only by small heaps of 
stones.” Three-quarters of an hour 
stiff climbing brings us to the summit, 
where a singular tract of table-land lies 
before us, broken here and there by 
deep precipitous ravines, between 
which shoot up sandstone peaks, irre- 
gular and fantastic. Proceeding along 
the plateau a short distance westward, 
a small enclosure is observed, with a 
chasm on each side : within it are situ- 
ated some of the most remarkable, as 
well as the most ancient monuments 
of the peninsula. 

“These,” says Dr. Robinson, “lie 
mostly within the compass of a small 
enclosure, 160 ft. long by 70 broad, 
marked by heaps of stone thrown or 
fallen together, the remains perhaps of 
former walls, or rows of low buildings. 
Within this space are seen about 15 
upright stones like tombstones, and 
several fallen ones, covered with Egyp- 
tian hieroglyphics; and also the re- 
mains of a small temple, whose co- 
lumns are decorated with the head of 
Isis for a capital. At the eastern end 
is a subterraneous chamber excavated 
in the solid rock, resembling an Egyp- 
tian sepulchre, It is square; and the 
roof is supported in the middle by a 


Route 1,.—Surdbit el-Khddim. 


Sect. I. 


uare column left from the rock. 
Both the column and the side of the 
chamber are covered with hiero- 
glyphics; and in each of the sides is 
a small niche. The whole surface of 
the enclosure is covered with fallen 
columns, fragments of sculpture, and 
hewn stones strewn in every direction ; 
over which the pilgrim can with diffi- 
culty find his way. Other similar up- 
right stones stand without the enclo- 
sure in various directions, and even at 
some distance ; each surmounted by a 
heap of stones which may have been 
thrown together by the Arabs. These 
upright stones, both within and with- 
out the enclosure, vary from about 7 
to 10 ft. in height; while they are 
from 18 in. to 2 ft. in breadth, and 
from 14 to 16 in. in thickness. They 
are rounded off on the top, forming an 
arch over the broadest sides. On one 
of these sides usually appears the com- 
mon Egyptian symbol of the winged 
globe with two serpents, and one or 
more priests presenting offerings to the 
gods; while various figures and car- 
touches cover the remaining sides,” 

The country around these singular 
monuments is neither grand nor pic- 
turesque. It isa barren and blasted 
desert, exhibiting nothing on its sur- 
face to attract man from regions to 
which nature has been more bountiful. 
The monuments might well pass for the 
works of some rigorous anchorites who 
had withdrawn far from the haunts of 
man, to spend lives of gloomy medita- 
tion and strictest self-denial in the 
very depths of the desert.— 


‘‘ Here Desolation keeps unbroken sabbath, 
Mid caves and temples, palaces and sepul- 


chres ; 
Ideal images in sculptured forma, 
Thoughts hewn in columns, or in cavern’ 


hill, 
In honour of their deities and of their dead.”’ 


But recent investigations have 
shown that, so far from this being the 
case, these monuments are standing 
testimonies to the scientific acquire- 
ments and enterprising spirit ofa great 
nation. Lepsius observed on the east 
and west sides of the spot great slag- 
hills, of a dark colour; with traces of 
ancient roads leading into the neigh- 


Sint. 


bouring mountains. These show that 
extensive copper-mines must exist 
somewhere near, and that this was a 
place chosen for smelting operations. 
In Wady Nusb to the westward he also 
discovered some ancient smelting- 
places, It is to be regretted that he 
did not extend his researches to the 
mountains, as he might easily have 
found the mines themselves, which 
have probably their sculptured tablets 
and historic cartouches similar to those 
of Wady Magharah. Here is some- 
thing left for future travellers; and I 
hope that ere long some enterprising 
geologist, or enthusiastic scholar, will 
spend a few days in searching for the 
mines of Suribit el-Khadim. 
According to Lepsius some of the 
hieroglyphics on these tablets are as 
ancient as the last dynasty of the old 
Empire. The rock grotto was then 
excavated. Outside this the inscribed 
tablets were successively set up during 
succeeding ages, and finally enclosed. 
‘The names of many Egyptian kings are 
found upon the stones—such as Osir- 
tasen I. (s.c. 1740); Thothmus ITT. 
and IV.; Amonoph I. and III.; Ose- 
rei and his son Remeses the Great; 
Remeses IV. and Y.; the latest being 
that of Remeses VI., the last monarch 
of the 19th dynasty, a contemporary 
of Agamemnon and Achilles, Priam 
and Hector; a contemporary, too, of 
Israel’s first king. From this it ap- 
pears that these mines were in full 
operation at the time of the Exodus; 
and were finally abandoned about B.c. 
1170. The presiding deity of the place 
appears to have been Athor, who is 
styled, as at Wady Magharah, “ Mis- 
tress of Mafak,” or “Copper” as the 
word signifies in the hieroglyphical as 
well asin the Copticlanguage. It has 
been generally supposed that these 
monuments are tombs; but though 
they may resemble the tombstones of 
England, and modern Turkish ceme- 
teries, they are wholly unlike any an- 
cient tombs existing either in Egypt 
or Syria. No excavations beneath 
have been discovered in which bodies 
could belaid. The place was probably 
a kind of temple, or sacred enclosure, 
where the miners assembled for wor- 


Route 1.—Surdbit el-Khddim. 


27 


ship; and in which sculptured tablets 
were erected in honour of successive 
sovereigns of Egypt, and other celebri- 
ties. They certainly deserve a more 
minute examination than travellers 
have hitherto been able to give them. 
An accurate plan of the whole place, 
with detailed drawings, especially 
photographs, or impressions on paper, 
of the sculptures, would be extremely 
valuable and interesti The neigh- 
bouring mountains ought to be fully 
explored for traces of mines, and sculp- 
tured tablets or inscriptions; and some 
specimens of the slag, the sandstone, 
and the ore should be brought to Eu- 
rope for the inspection of geologists, 
and for analysis. Sir G. Wilkinson 
states that about 2 m. to the S8.E. of 
Surabit el-Khadim are three tablets 
cut in the face of the rock, bearing the 
names of Thothmes IV. and another 
old king ; and close to them are small 
caves in the rock, used as tombs. 


The route from Surabit el-Khaidim 
leads S.E. up Wady Sfwuk to its 
head, where it surmounts a difficult 
pase and enters Wady Khumileh, 1 h., 
rom the ruins. An incident occurred 
with Dr. Robinson's in this val- 
ley which strikingly illustrates the 
strange inconsistencies of the Bedawy 
character ; and proves, besides, that 
Arab etiquette is, like that of our own 
country, not unfrequently a “bore.” 
The Doctor bought a kid from some 
‘Arabs, and presented it to his escort, 
intending that they should have a 
good supper.: Great, of course, was 
their joy at the prospect of the even- 
ing feast. The tent was at length 
pitched; the kid killed and dressed 
with true Eastern despatch; and the 
still quivering members, laid on the 
ample fire, began to emit most sa- 
voury odours. But a change soon 
came over the scene of rejoicing. The 
Arabs who had sold the kid naturally 
enough concluded that it was in- 
tended for the evening meal ; some five 
or six of them dogged the party and 
just arrived in the nick of time. The 
stern law of Bedawy hospitality de- 
mands, that, whenever a guest is: pre- 

Cc 


28 


sent at a meal, whether there be 
much or little, the first and best por- 
tions must be laid before him. In 
this case the five or six guests at- 
tained their object, and had not only 
the selling of the kid but the eati 
of it. The Doctor's r escort 

to rest contented with the bones. 
Such is Arab hospitality. Whilst the 
hungry entertainers were smiling on 
their guests, and making profuse use 
of the complimentary tefuddhel, they 


gru them every mouthful, and 
smothered with a polite bow many a 
hearty inward wish that they were at 


Jericho or elsewhere. 

About } h. down the valley there 
is a rock on the right hand covered 
with Sinaitic inscriptions, figures of 
camels, mountain goats, and other crea- 
tures; and a short distance farther 
is another large rock on the same 
side, with inscriptions, and several 
erosses, apparently of the same age. 
Here are also the names of several 
travellers ; one is Palerne, 1582. We 
follow the same course through shal- 
low wadys and over low hills for 2} h. 
more, when we reach an open space 
where the sandstone gives way to 
porphyry and granite, and the moun- 
tains begin to assume features of 
grandeur and stern desolation. En- 
tering Wady el-Burk (the Valley of 
Lightning), we reach in $h. a sharp 
' turn, where there are a few inscrip- 
tions near the ground. Somewhat 
more than an hour farther we observe 
a wall of stones across the wady, 
constructed by the Bedawin about 
30 years ago In the vain hope of de- 
fending. themselves behind it against 
some 3000 Egyptian troops sent by 
the Pusha to chastise them for plun- 
dering a caravan. The poor Tawarah 
were soon routed notwithstandi 
their barricade, and: immediately af- 
terwards submitted to Mohammed 
Aly. Our route now leads through 
Wady ’Akir, over the plateau of Leb- 
weh, and then (in 6 h. 45 min. from 
the stone wall) dives down into Wady 
Berth between noble granite cliffs. 
Here on the smooth rocks and pre- 
cipices are considerable numbers of 
inscriptions; many of them having 


Route 1.—Convent of Mount Sinai. 


Sect, I. 


crosses of the same date. Following 
the same general course 2 h. 20 min., 
we reach Wady esh-Sheikh, the great- 
est valley of the whole peninsula; it 
is, as has been seen above, a conti- 
nuation of Wady Feirin. From this 
point to the head of Wady Feiran 
proper is about 3 h. From hence 
we may either follow the course of 
Wady esh-Sheikh about 10 h. to the 
convent; or we may strike straight 
across the hilly region to the foot 
of Nukb H&wy, 34 h., and thence, as 
described above, about 4 h. more to 
inai. 


CoNVENT oF Moount Srnal. 


Admission to the Convent can only 
be gained on the production of a let- 
ter of introduction from the branch 
convent at Cairo; which any traveller 
can get on application. On reaching 
the side of the lofty walls the travel- 
ler looks up to a kind of trap-door, 
some 30 feet overhead, and sees the 
faces of one or two monks recon- 
noitering him and his A cord 
is let down with a demand for the 
letter. This being found in order, 
the pilgrim fastens himself upon a 
rope let down for the 4 ge, is hoist- 

up the dizzy height by means of 
a windlass, and then dragged in by a 
sturdy brother to the platform. La- 
dies who may not relish this aérial 
voyage are admitted by a small pos- 
tern into the garden, and thence con- 
ducted by a dark subterraneous pas- 
sage within the convent walls, All 
travellers were formerly welcomed by 
the superior with the embrace 
kiss of brotherhood; but the latter 
has, within the last few years, been 
enerally dispensed with, owing, 
oubtiess, to the increasing number 
and doubtful orthodoxy of the visitors 
—now it is only administered as a 
mark of special favour. The Bedawin 
are never admitted within the walls ; 
but when urgent business demands it, 
a chief or principal man of some tribe 
may be received in the den; or, 
even, though very rarely, in the con- 


Sinal. Route 1.—- Convent of Mount Sinai. 29 
vent itself. This is an obvious pre-| sand feet. It is an irregular quadran- 
caution, and is essential, in such a/ gular building, 245 feet by 204, encom- 


region and among such men, to the 
safety of the monks and their little 
property. As it is usual for travellers 
to remain here some days, the Be- 
dawin wander away to spend their 
time in the tents, and recruit their 
camels among the scanty pastures, of 
their brethren—returning again on an 
appointed day. 

The Sinai convent is a veritable 
oasis to the desert pilgrim. A sweet 
sense of repose and security steals 
over the mind on entering it, which 
those only can realize who have ex- 
perienced the fatigue and excitement 
of a journey amid native wastes, and 
in the companionship of the wild Be- 
dawin. There is something soothing, 
too, in the deep silence of the build. 
ing; in the moaning of the mountain 
breeze as it sweeps through the long 
corridors; in the solemn step an 
grave costume of the holy fathers; in 
the quiet grandeur of the everlasting 
hills around; and more than all, in 
the plaintive murmur of the chanted 
prayers breaking forth from the old 
church amid the death-like stillness 
of the night. Here too there is all the 
wild magnificence of nature, combined 
with historic interest and sacred as- 
sociations, to attract and inspire the 


P Fhe convent itself will first claim 
the traveller's attention; and a day 
may be well spent in wandering amid 
the labyrinth of buildings, viewin 
the curiosities of the old church un 
its countless chapels, visiting the ve- 
nerated tomb and relics of the patron 
saint, contemplating the grim and 
grisly horrors of the charnel-house, 
and lounging beneath the delicious 
shade of en bowers: such a day's 
comparative rest, too, prepares one for 
the fatiguing excursions to the Moun- 
tain of the Law, and the various spots 
of interest round it. 

The convent is situated in the nar- 
row Wady Shu’eib, and covers almost 
the whole width of its western side, 
from the bed of the winter torrent to 
the base of the perpendicular cliff 
that rises over it upwards of a thou- 


passed by thick and lofty walls of 
granite, with little towers at intervals, 
on some of which are mounted a few 
antiquated pieces of ordnance. The 
walls exhibit the motley patchwork of 
various ages from Justinian to Na- 
poleon. A considerable portion was 
rebuilt by the French during their 
occupation of Egypt. The space en- 
closed is cut up into a number of 
little courts and passages, quite be- 
wildering in their irregularity. Some 
of the courts are ornamented with cy- 
presses and other trees, and others 
with beds of flowers and vegetables ; 
while luxuriant vines are trained 
along the walls, or over trellis-work. 
The garden adjoins the convent on 
the north side, and is also surrounded 
by a lofty wall. It is gained by a 
subterranean passage, secured by a 
heavy iron door. Lying on the slope 
of the valley, it is formed into terraces, 
along which are aranged lines of fruit- 
trees and vines. The olive, almond, 
and apricot are of great age and size ; 
and look like patriarchs amid the 
more numerous groups of pomegra- 
nates, figs, pears, apples, mulberries, 
and quinces. Here and there are beds 
of vegetables ; while the tall cypresses 
shoot up their sombre cones far above 
all. The holy fathers are neither skil- 
ful nor industrious, yet the garden is 
a gem in the desert. In the very 
centre of this bright and joyous spot 
is a low building, partly subterranean, 
which has been for centuries the last 
resting-place of the monks. Imme- 
diately after death the bodies are ex- 
posed in one chamber, and there re- 
main until the flesh has wasted away ; 
then the skeleton is broken up and 
the bones conveyed to another cham- 
ber, where multitudes are already 
ranged “in ghostly symmetry, arm- 
bone to arm-bone, thigh-bone to thigh- 
pone, rib to rib, ina compact pile, with 
a mass of heaped-up skulls—from the 
remains of him who died yesterday, 
and still lived in the memory of his 
fellow-monks, to him whose forgotten 
remains, with their history, are written 
only in the book of Omniscience.” In 


30 


another chamber are some still more 
melancholy relics of mortality: in 
one corner is the grim skeleton of an 
anchorite who seems to have been 
carried from his mountain den, “just 
as he was found after encountering 
alone the terrors of the last enemy, 
fixed in the convulsive form that na- 
ture took in the parting s le; ”’ 
the clenched hands, the head sunk on 
the chest, the attitude of agonizing 
supplication, with some few rags of 
the hair shirt yet clinging to the 
bones. Close by is a box containing 
the relics of two hermits, brothers 
of exalted rank, as tradition has it. 
Bound to each other through life by 
& massive chain, they wore away their 
weary years in some rock-hewn cave; 
and thus linked, encountered death 
together. 


The Church, dedicated to the Trans- 
figuration, is the most important build- 
ing in the convent. It consists of a 
nave and aisles in the usual Byzantine 
style, separated by rows of granite 
columns, now covered with plaster. 
Arches springing from the columns 
support the flat roof. The floor is of 
tesselated marble. The decorations 
ef the altar-screen are profuse, but 
in barbarous taste; and the pictures 
ranged on it, and round the walls, are 

and stiff, as if the painters had 
laboured to make them as unlike liv- 
ing realities as possible. The great at- 
traction is the mosaic on the vaulted 
roof of the chancel. The central part 
represents the Transfiguration ; Christ 
in the centre, Moses on the right, and 
Elias on the left; and the three apos- 
tles beneath, Peter being prostrate. 
Round the whole is a border, consist- 
ing of a series of busts of prophets, 
apostles, and saints, in oval or cir- 
cular tablets ; the name of each being 
attached in Greek characters. On the 
plain wall over the apse are the por- 
traits of the emperor Justinian, and 
his wife Theodora; while above the 
former is Moses on his knees before 
the burning bush, and on the op- 
posite side of the window he is repre- 
sented receiving the tablets of the 
Law. <A Greek inscription round the 


Route 1.—Convent of Mount Sinai. 


Sect. I. 


lower part of the great picture is to 
the following effect :— P 

“In the name of the Father, and of the Son, 
and of the Holy Ghost— 

“The whole of this work was executed for the 
salvation of those who have contributed to it by 
their donations, under Longinus the most holy 
priest and prior.” 

In the chancel, behind the altar, 
are preserved the honoured relics of 
St. Catherine, whose body was mira- 
culously transported from Alexandria 
to the top of the mountain that bears 
her name, The relics now consist 
only of a skull and hand, set in gold 
and ornamented with jewels. Here, 
too, is the chapel erected by the em- 
press Helena over the very spot where 
the “ Burning Bush ”’ stood ; the place 
is now covered with silver, and the 
chapel adorned with rich carpets. All 
who enter must imitate Moses and 
take off their shoes, for the place is 
holy. The well from which Moses 
watered Jethro’s flocks is also shown, 
not far off. 

Near the church is a mosk with a 
minaret—singular proof of the toler- 
ance, perhaps of the fear, of the Chris- 


tian communities of this land. It. 


appears, from a MS. discovered by 
Burckhardt in the library, to have been 
erected previous to the 14th centy. ; 
though tradition ascribes it to a much 
later date, and gives a romantic ac- 
count of the causes and effects of its 
construction. 

It is thus related by Burckhardt :— 
“When Selim, the Othman Emperor, 
conquered Egypt, he took a great fancy 
to a young Greek priest, who, falling ill 
at the time that Selim was returning 
from Constantinople, was sent by him 
to this convent to recover his health. 
The young man died, upon which the 
emperor, enraged at what he considered 
to be the work of the priests, gave 
orders to the governors of Egypt to 
destroy all the Christian establish- 
ments in the peninsula, of which there 
were several at that period. The 
priests of the great convent of Mount 

inai, being informed of the prepara- 
tions making in Egypt to carry these 
orders into execution, began immedi- 
ately to build a mosk within their 


} 


Srwatl. 


walls, hoping thaé for its sake their 
house would be spared. It is said that 
their project was successful, and that 
ever since the mosk has been kept in 


repair. 

here are still, I believe, a few poor 
Arabs appointed to take c of the 
mosk, and clean it out each Thursday 
evening. They are said to be the de- 
scendants of some straggling pilgrims 
who 4 or 5 centuries ago were cut off 
by the Bedawins from the Haj cara- 
vah, and brought to the convent. The 
mosk is rarely visited, and the call to 
prayers is never heard except when 
chance or ultra piety brings some 
great man to this retired spot. 


History of the Convent.— The precise 
period at which Christian communities 

gan to settle in the wilderness of 
Sinai is not known; but it was pro- 
bably during the persecutions which 
raged in Egypt and Syria in the Ist 
and 2nd centuries, as Eusebius quotes 
authorities referring to them early in 
the 3rd centy. The flight of St. Ca- 
therine’s body is attributed to a.p. 
307. About that time hosts of anchor- 
ites, attracted by the solitude of the 
mountain glens and the wild scenery, 
scooped out caves in the rocks, built 
hermitages on lofty peaks, and ranged 
the desert for every uncomfortable 
hole in which to stow themselves. 
¥rom early monkish records it appears 
that during the 4th centy. Jebel Masa 
and the surrounding peaks swarmed 
with recluses, who, though dwelling 
apart, occasionally assembled for mu- 
tual edification, or to listen to the 
teaching of some distinguished ascetic. 
They thus, by degrees, became regu- 
larly organised into a little community, 
and erected a small building to serve 
both as a place of prayer and a re- 
fuge in danger. In the year 373 the 
monks were almost exterminated by 
the Arabs, and a few only were saved 
by a miracle. Forty were slain in 
the attack, and to these was dedicated 
Deir el- Arb’ain, “the Convent of the 
Forty,” still standing at the head of 
Wady Leja. Other calamities no less 
bloody befell them, and they were 
forced to seek refuge in Feiran till 


Route 1.—Convent of Mount Stnat. $1 


a truce was made with their foes. 
In the 6th centy. they became more 
numerous and influential, and a legate 
appeared at the Council of Constan- 
tinople in 536 to represent “ Holy 
Mount Sinai.” 

Tradition ascribes the founding of 
the convent, and erection of the ch., 
to the piety of the Emperor Justinian 
(a.D. 527); and Procopius, who wrote 
in the same century, confirms this 
tradition; mentioning, in addition to 
the ch., which was dedicated to the 
Virgin, a fortress to protect the monks 
st the attacks of the Saracens. 

hese are doubtless the buildings 
which still remain, but which have 
since undergone many repairs. From 
this period the conventual establish- 
ment rose rapidly in importance. 
Feirin had from the 4th centy. been 
the episcopal city with which all the 
establishments in the peninsula were 
connected ; but it declined, while the 
convent of Justinian advanced, so that 
before the close of the 10th centy. the 
latter became the episcopal seat. 

The introduction of Islam amon 
the wild tribes of Arabia effecte 
little change in their habits; and 
served to increase rather than check 
their hostility to the monks of Sinai 
and the Christian inhabitants of the 
peninsula. Often were the poor her- 
mits murdered in cold blood in their 
solitary caves amid the mountains; 
oftener yet were. their little stores of 
provisions plundered; and on more 
than one occasion the whole commu- 
nity of the convent of Sinai were 
driven from their desert home, and 
forced to seek refuge amid the glens 
and inaccessible cliffs of the surround- 
ing mountains. Still danger seemed 
to stimulate piety —the greater the 
privations an amities endured, the 
more eager were others from distant 
regions to flock to the scene of suffer- 


‘ing. The remains of convents, churches, 


and chapels, with the vast numbers of 
grottoes and hermitages still seen 
among the mountains, corroborate the 
assertion of chroniclers, that from 
6000 to 7000 monks and anchorites 
were at one time dispersed through 
this dreary region. Pilgrims, -too, 


32 
flocked tu it from every country, to 
perform their devotions at the very 
spot where the Divine Glory was ma- 
nifested at the giving of the Law. 

In the 14th centy. the convent was 
visited by several travellers from Eu- 
rope. Rudolf de Suchem states that 
there were then 400 monks in it under 
an archbishop. There were also at 
that time six other inhabited convents 
in the peninsula, besides a number of 
hermitages. In the early part of the 
17th centy. all the latter were de- 
serted, and the stately establishment 
at Sinai had dwindled down to 60; at 
present the number of monks is only 
24, and no prelate has been resident 
for a century. 

“The archbishop is elected by a 
council of the mofks, which manages 
in common the affairs of this con- 
vent and the branch at Cairo. This 
prelate is always selected from the 
priests of the monastery ; and having 
then been consecrated as bishop by 
the patriarch of Jerusalem, he be- 
comes one of the four inlependent 
archbishops of the Greek Church. 
Were he present he would have but 
a single voice in the management of 
the affairs of the convent, as a mem- 
ber of the council. While residing at 
a distance he has no authority or con- 
nexion with it, except to receive mo- 
ney and presents from its revenues.” 
The prior is elected by the council, 
and is the local chief. 

The discipline is exceedingly rigor- 
ous; and one can scarcely compre- 
hend the motives that impel men, not 
merely to banish themselves from the 
society of their fellows, but from 
spheres of usefulness and activity ; 
and at the same time to submit to 
privations such as few under any cir- 
cumstances would endure. Religious 
enthusiasm has a powerful influence 
over both mind and body ; but there is 
little evidence of it among the simple 
fraternity at Sinai. Flesh and wine 
are entirely prohibited; and during 
the great fast the monks are forced to 
abstain from butter, milk, and every 
species of animal product, and even 
from olive-oil. Their only food is thus 
bread, boiled vegetables, and fruit. 


Route 1.—Convent of Mount Sinai, 


Sect. I. 


Add to this that the service of the 
Greek ritual is performed in the church 
eight times in the 24 hrs. ; and every 
brother must be present at least four 
times, twice during the day and twice 
during the night. Their cells are 
small and have no furniture beyond a 
carpet and a mattress. The holy 
fathers spend their weary days between 
their devotions and the trades which 
the requirements of their situation com- 
pel them to take up—one is cook, an- 
other tailor, another shoemaker, another 
smith, another mason, another carpen- 
ter, another gardener ; and one is even 
denominated librarian, but his office is 
a complete sinecure. There is indeed 
# library, but no one, except a stray 
and curious traveller, ever thinks of 
entering it. The monks, as a class, are 
ignorant, idle, and entirely useless— 
taken from the arege ot the population 
in the Greek Islands, they are not only 
innocent of anything like literature, 
but they do not even speak the lan- 
guage of the people among whom they 
live. Their whole aim in life seems to 
be to spend it without exertion either 
of mind or body. 


The Library contains about 1500 
volumes of printed Greek books, and, 
according to Burckhardt, 700 Arabic 
MSS. Neither books nor MSS. pos- 
sess any great value. The latter are 
mostly lives of the saints, rituals, 
&e. The only literary treasures of the 
place are two :—First, a beautiful MS. 
of the Gospels, written on vellum in 
double columns, in letters of gold. The 
form of the letters resembles that of 
the Alexandrian MS. It is ornamented 
with illuminated portraits of the 
Apostles. It is said to have been given 
to the convent by the Emperor Theo- 
dosius, probably the third of that name, 
who lived in the 8th centy. Second, a 
copy of the Psalter in Greek, written 
on twelve 12mo. pages by a female. 
The hand is very neat, but so small 
that a microscope is required to read it. 
These two MSS. are kept in the Arch- 
bishop's room. 


Srval. 


EXCURSIONS, 


To Jebel Misa, Sufedfeh, and St. 
Catherine. —This excursion requires, to 
do it justice, two days. The best plan 
is to send forward the articles of food 
and clothing needed for the night to 
the smal]l convent of el-’Arb’ain in 
Wady Leja. 

The usual egress from the convent en 
route to Jebel Masa is by the garden, 
from a small building on the wall of 
which there is an easy descent, by the 
aid of a rope, to the base of the moun- 
tain. The path leads behind the con- 
vent, and ascends diagonally the moun- 
tain side, till it enters between over- 
hanging cliffs. In 25 min. there isa 
fine cool spring, where the pilgrim can 
breathe a moment, as he quaifs a cup, 
beneath the grateful shade of an im- 
pending rock. Then onward through 
the narrow ravine, scrambling over and 
among huge fragments of granite. 
small chapel dedicated to the Virgin 
is soon passed, if we do not linger a 
moment to learn its tradition. Onone 
occasion the monks were so vigorously 
attacked by fleas that they resolved to 
fiee the convent, Forming in solemn 

rocession, they proceeded to take 

eave of the various a sacred spots ; but 
just when passing this s e Virgin 
appeared to them, and } pl her 
word that she would herself banish 
their sacrilegious tormentors, and bring 
besides a larger concourse of pilgrims 
to their shrines. The monks of course 
returned to their quarters ; they affirm 
too that the Virgin kept her word, and 
that the convent is still as free of fleas 
as Ireland (thanks to the blessed St. 
Patrick) is of toads. But travellers 
are somewhat sceptical on this point ; 


perhaps the Vi 8 power is only ex- 
ercised on be of the “ faithful.” 


A little farther up is a double gate- 
way, where, in the palmy days of 
monkery, priests rays stood 0 oa 
ess pilgrims. r ing the 
the traveller emerges on a little plain, 
with s solitary cypress, beneath whose 
shade is a well of pure water. The 
head of Jebel Matsa now rises 
y on the left; while in front, 


Route 1.—Jebel Miisa.—Jebel Sufsdfeh. 


Al with the ruins of former 


33 


beyond the deep ravine, St. Catherine 
towers to the sky. On the right is a 
long ridge of wild rocks and jagged 
pe extending for nearly 2 m., and 
terminating in the bold cliff that rises 
up from the bosom of the plain of 
R&hah. This is the Horeb of the 
monks, and the true “Mount of the 
Law.” 

Setting out again, after a brief pause 
to gain strength and contemplate the 
grand features of this interesting scene, 
we pass a low rude building contain- 
ing the chapels of Elijah and Elisha. 
Here is shown the narrow grot where 
theformer dweltin Horeb (1 Kings xix). 
From hence the ascent becomes 
steeper, but a rude staircase has been 
constructed by blocks of stone, on 
which the observant traveller will not 
fail to perceive the footmarks of Mo- 
hammed’s camel. The summit is 
gained at last—a little platform some 
30 paces in diameter, partly covered 
uildings. 
At its eastern end is a chapel; and 
near it a mosk, for Moses is a Muslem 
saint too. Notwithstanding the ele- 
vation of the peak (7035 ch ft. 
above the sea, and 2000 above the con- 
vent), the view is by no means exten- 
sive. On the W. and §.W. it is shut 
in by the higher ridges of Tiniah and 
St. Catherine. No part of the plain of 
Rahah is visible from it; and it must 
at once strike every visitor that there 
is no place at or near its base suit- 
able for a large encampment, so that 
the words of Scripture might be appli- 
cable: “The Lord will come down in 
the sight of all the upon mount 
Sinai.” This is the Sinai of the monks, 
but certainly not that of the Bible. 


Jebel Sufedfeh, “the mountain of 
the Willow,” Si1na1.-— To complete 
the day’s excursion, I recommend a 
walk to the summit of Sufsafeh. 
The way is somewhat rough and 

though not so very bad but 
that even ladies have followed it, and 
may do so again. The road leads back 
to the cypress-tree, and then along the 
western brow of the ridge (Horeb of 
the monks) to the small chapel of St. 
John the Baptist, and to another near 

c 


34 
the extremity of the ridge dedicated to 
the “ Virgin of the Zone.” From the 


latter the summit of Sufsifeh towers 
up almost a sheer precipice. It is 
easily scaled, however, and } of an 
hour’s tough climbing brings us to the 
top, the view from which, and the 
holy associations it calls up, are ample 
rewards for all the toil. ‘“ The whole 
plain of Rahah now lies at your feet, 
with the several valleys that branch off 
from it. The conviction now rushes 
upon the mind that this is the mount 
on which the Lord descended in glory 
to proclaim the Holy Law. Here isa 
plain sufficient for the encampment of 
the whole people ; there is the moun- 
tain-side rising up from it which the 
careless or the daring might approach 
and touch; and here too is the com- 
manding where the dark clouds 
and lightning flashes would be visible 
to all. Few spots on earth possess a 
more absorbing or more thrilling in- 
terest than this; and there is no 
modern theory, or monkish legend, to 
disturb the full burst of pious feeling. 
All around are nature’s own unchang- 
ing features. These are the mountains 
and these the vales that the Israelites 
gazed upon—these are the very 
that were once shadowed by the clouds 
that hid the Almighty from the view 
of His astonished people; that were 
once lit up by the lurid glare of the 
lightnings ; and that once gave back 
in their echoes the awful voice of hea- 
ven’s trumpet when it proclaimed the 
advent of heaven’s King!" The whole 
distance between the two summits may 
be easily accomplished by any one ac- 
customed to Swiss paths in from 1 to 
13 h.; and none should fail, what- 
ever may be his theory about the Holy 
Places, to gain a view which is not gur- 
assed in interest or grandeur by any 
fi the peninsula, 


Deir el-Arb’atn, “the Convent of 
the Forty.”—In descending from 
Jebel Sufsifeh to this convent our 
way leads back some distance towards 
Jebel Masa ; then, ing more to the 

ight, we descend diagonally the west- 
ern. declivity of the ridge, passing a 
little chapel dedicated to St. Pante- 


Route 1.—Deir el-Arb’ain.—Mount St. Catherine, 


Sect. L 


leimon,from whence an hour's scramble 
down rugged cliffs and through nar- 
row glens brings us to the little sanc- 
tuary of the “Martyrs.” This con- 
vent is perhaps even of older date than 
that of St. Catherine (or more properly 
the “Transfiguration ”). The tragic 
story of its origin and name has already 
been given. It is now deserted by 
monks, and only occupied by a few 
families of the Jebaliyeh Arabs, who 
cultivate the gardens connected with 
it. Here the eye is refreshed by the 
verdure of blooming orchards and an 
extensive olive-grove; while the tall, 
graceful poplars, so rare in this thirsty 
land, greatly enhance the beauty of 
the scene. A night in such a place is 
dreary enough ; but should the “moon 
be out” to silver each mountain peak, 
and cast the yawning between 
into deeper shade, a midnight ramble 
through the glen will be cherished by 


memory among the dest scenes ~ 
ever eye gazed on, or pictured. 
Mount St. Catherine, Jebel Katherin.— 


An early start is recommended, as well 
to enjoy the comfort of the cool morn- 
ing air during a toilsome march of 3 
hrs. over none of the best of roads, as 
to secure the glorious view ere the 
sun’s rays have yet dimmed the crys- 
talline purity of the atmosphere. The 
path leads us up Wady Leji—a wild, 
narrow gorge, terminating in a huge: 
fissure in the mountain-side, aptly 
termed Shik Misa, “ Moses’ Cleft.” 
Ten minutes above the convent two 
lofty rocks shut in the valley on the 
right and left, both of which have 
many of those mysterious inscriptions 
upon them y 80 often alluded to ; 
one of the two is almost covered with 
them. About an hour farther up is a 
fountain of ice-cold water, on a “ shelf” 
of the left-hand precipice, called Ma'y- 
an esh-Shunnar, “the Fountain of 
the Partridge ’"—because, as tradition 

has it, it was discovered by the flutter- 
ing of one of these birds, when the 

monks were bringing down the bones 

of St. Catherine from the summit. The 

ravine is passed ; and the mountain ac- 
clivity, capped, still far overhead, by 

the rugged granite peaks that form 


Svat. 


the goal, is before us, sprinkled here 
and there with dwarf shrubs and 
sweet-scented herbs. At last the 
rocky pile is surmounted, and we seat 
ourselves beneath the shade of the 
little chapel, guarding however against 
cold blasts, to revel at leisure in the 
glorious panorama spread out around 
us. Nearly the whole peninsula is 
before us like a huge embossed map. 
On the 8.W. alone is the view in- 
terrupted by the sharp peak of Um 
Shaumer, which appears to be the 
highest in the whole region. Away 
on the §.E. is the Arabian Gulf, with 
its little islands; while stretching 
northward from it are the still waters of 
”Akabah, begirt by azure-tinted moun- 
tains. The desert plain of Ké’a lies 
at our feet on the other side of the 
peninsula, its shore washed by the 
waves of the Gulf of Suez, which looks 
like a mighty river rolling through a 
boundless desert. On the N.W. is 
Serbil, its jagged peaks rising up clear 
and sharp out of a maze of lower hills ; 
and away on the N. is the “Sandy 
Plain,’ Debbet er-Ramleh, shut in by 
the long range of Tih. Such a trou- 
bled. sea—such a “frozen tempest’ of 
black, weather-worn, rugged mountain- 
peaks—such a boundless expanse of 
deserm human eye has seldom, if ever, 
wandered over. Here, it seems, the 
spirit-wafted bones of St> Catherine 
first touched the earth after their 
flight from Alexandria; and hence 
were they borne by pious hands to the 
peaceful retreat where they have now 
reposed for some 15 centuries. 


- Back to the Convent.—Descending 
in by the same way to the shrine of 
the Forty Martyrs, we take another 
route to the great convent, round the 
base of Sufséfeh. This is a kind of 
Via Sacra to the good fathers, along 
which, as Dr. Robinson has somewhat 
profanely asserted, they have, “as a 
matter of convenience,’ grouped to- 
gether all the Holy Places they know 
of in connexion with Sinai. Ina spirit 
of charity, if not of faith, let us per- 
form the pilgrimage. 
. Twenty minutes down the valley is 
the “ Rock of Horeb,” which Moses 


Route 1.—Excursions. 


85 


smote with his rod, and from which water 
gushed forth to supply the wants of the 
murmuring Israelites. It is a large 
isolated cube of coarse red granite, 
which time has brought down from the 
cliff overhead. In front, in an oblique 
line from top to bottom, runs a seam 
of finer texture, from 12 to 14 in. wide, 
having in it several horizontal crevices. 
These are the impressions of the 
“ Rod,” and the seam is the mark left 
by the flowing water. Dr. Robinson 
was 80 sceptical as to go round to the 
back side, to see whether the seam ran 
through the block. 

Below this point the rocks that line 
the valley are in places almost covered 
with Sinaitic inscriptions, some of 
which may be seen in Burckhardt’s 
Travels in Syria. At the opening of 
the wady into the plain of Rahah are 
two fine gardens—that on the left 
marking the site of an old convent 
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, 
and that on the right to St. Mary of 
David. To the northward of the 
opening of the valley, the guides -will 
point out the place where the earth 
opened its mouth to swallow Korah, 
Dathan, and Abiram. The tragic 
event occurred at Kedesh, which geo- 
graphers have placed on the southern 

rder of Palestine, but, of course, the 
monks know better. (Num. xvi.) 

Farther eastward, in front of Sufs4- 
feh, is a hole in a granite rock, level 
with the sand: this is the mould in 
which Aaron cast the “golden calf.” 
The spots where Aaron stood while the 

ople danced round the idol, where 
Moses first saw them and broke the 
“Tables of the Law,” where the calf 
was petrified, &c. &c., are all carefully 
noted by the monks, and duly exhibited 
to the faithful. The convent is gained 
by the valley of Shu’eib, through which 
we first approached it, and the whole 
distance from el-Arb’ain is about 1} 

our, 


Other Excursions.— The preceding 
excursion embraces all that is really 
or traditionally “sacred” around 
Sinai; but the love of scenery, or of 
novelty, or “a truant disposition,” may 


36 


induce some to go beyond the ortho- 
dox boundaries, and revel in new 

und. To suchI would recommend a 
ve days’ tour to the mysterious moun- 
tain of Um Shaumer, from which, com- 
mon report affirms, strange, unearth] 
sounds are often heard to issue; an 
thence to Tar. Burckhardt visited 
Um Shaumer, and attempted to scale 
its highest peak, but here even that 
intrepid traveller was fairly baffled. 
The way to it leads up Wady Shu’eib, 
and for 14 hr. follows the path to 
Shim. It then ‘turns to the right, 
winding through sublime ravines, 
wilder and der even than those on 
the oa ridges, nm Rose, and, over low 
jagged ri ill at the end of some 
hrs. we reach the little convent of 
Antous, situated on the side of the 
mountain, above aspring. From hence 
the ascent must be made. Bure 
says, “The mountain of Um Shaumer 
rises to a sharp-pointed peak, the 
highest summit of which it is, I be- 
lieve, impossible to reach ; the sides be- 
ing almost perpendicular, and the rock 
so smooth as to afford no hold to the 
foot. I halted at about 200 ft. below 
it, where a beautiful view opened upon 
the sea of Suez and the neighbour- 
hood of Tar, which place was distinctly 
visible ; at our feet extended the wide 

lain of Ka’a.” —. 

The old road to Tar leads past the 
little convent, and along it the tra- 
veller may proceed after satisfying his 
curiosity amid the mountain heights. 
The distance is a long day’s march. 
Tar is a poor half-deserted village. 
Near it are some good gardens and 
palm-groves belonging to the convent 
of Sinai. The monks pay the Arabs 
for cultivating them. There is a small 
port, with the remains of a fortress, 
near it, and at a little distance sweet 
water. From hence to Sinai, through 
Wady Hebran, in- which are some 
Sinaitic inscriptions, is two days’ 
march. 

‘Other short excursions may be made 
to the summits of the several mountain- 
peaks round the convent and the plain 
of R&ahah, such as Jebel ed-Deir, down 
a wild cleft in whose side shoots a 
bright ray of sunshine, at a certain sea- 


Route 2.—Mount Sinai to ’ Akabah. 


Sect. I. 


son every year, on the convent below, 
and is, of course, proclaimed by the 
monks a standing miracle, as it lights 
up as “ with celestial glory ” the sacred 
chapel of the “Burning Bush.” On 
the summit of Jebel ed-Deir stands a 
cross, seen from afar—a e, im- 
pressive object surmounting the wild 
peaks of Sinai. 


ROUTE 2. 
MOUNT SINAI TO ’AKABAH. 


Convent to ’Ain Hudhera, 
weroth .. «2 «2 «2 ee 
Shore of Gulf of ’'Akabah .. 9 0 


Castle of ’Akabah .. .. .. 23 15 
Total .. .. .. « 5015 
The leave-taking at the conwnt is 


not always so agreeable as the rece 

tion. Those who have plenty of cash, 
and care little how profusely they 
spend it, can, of course, make bright 
faces wherever they go, and whatever 
they do, especially in the East; but 
when a man wishes to act justly 
towards himself as well as his neigh- 
bours, he often disappoints glowing 
expectations, and is the innocent cause 
of much grumbling. Travellers during 
their few days’ residence generally 
accept from the holy fathers only the 
shelter of a roof, with bread and 
water. The hard fare of the refectory 
few will relish ; flesh can only be had 
from without ; little luxuries, such as 
preserved dates, are bought at more 
than their value; all guides are paid 
for at a fixed tariff, most of which the 
aie Bt atta beige 
ceiv y the superior for ging, 
bread, and water, is 100 piastres or 


SINAL 


about ll. sterling a-head, over and 
above fees to cook, porter, &c. This 
some will think extravagant for such 
accommodation in such a place; but 
still few will object to it. Better pay 
it with a good e, and even add an 
extra dollar, than leave the superior 
with a ruffled countenance. This 
country is a poor place for the study of 
political economy, at least in its prac- 


gs 

The morning of the day of depar- 
ture is ushered in by such a scene of 
wrangling and disorder beneath the 
“trap-door” as the traveller perhaps 
has never yet witnessed. A crowd of 
hungry, -naked, wild -looking 
Arabs has collected, in addition to the 
escort and their friends, who clamo 
loudly and piteously for é 
amid the angry contentions of those 
engaged in apportioning the luggage. 
Long hours must pass ere the loads 
are . Then the unhappy 
proprietor, after a parting embrace 
from the superior, feels hi 

ling in the air over a dense mass 
of k eager faces, and a wintry 
forest of bare extended arms, appa- 
rently running no small risk of being 
pulled to pieces ere he touches the 
ground. The exertions of servants 
and dragomen are just sufficient to 
clear a few feet for his descent; but 
matters again approach a crisis as he 
attempts to mount his camel; a few 
small coins scattered in the rear by a 
servant draws off the throng, and ere 
the scramble is over the traveller has 
effected his escape. 

The way lies down Wady Shu’'eib, 
and then-to the right along the great 
Wady esh-Sheikh. In 24 h. is the 
tomb of Sheikh S4lih, from which the 
valley takes its name. It is one of 
the most sacred spots in the whole 

ninsula, in the estimation of the 

win. It is a rude stone build- 
ing, containing the humble tomb 
of the saint, around which are hung 
some votive offerings, that show as 
much as anything else the abject 
poverty of the people, mere “shreds 
and patches.”” Sheikh Salih ie said to 
have been the progenitor of the Sa- 
walihah . Once a year, in the 


Route 2.— Mount Sinai to ’Akabah. 


37 


month of June, all the tribes of the 
Tawarah make a Pigum to his 
tomb, encamp round it for days, 
kill sheep in honour of the gaint, and 
present offerings. 

A little in advance of this spot the 
road turns to the rt. out of Wady esh- 
Sheikh, and in 30 min. passes a weil 
called Abu Suweirah. An hour far- 
ther brings us to the watershed between 
the gulfs of Suez and ’Akabah. We 
now advance in an eastward direction, 
over a region of low rugged bleak 
hills, intersected by shallow, bare ra- 
vines, till in some 2 brs. we dive into 
the lofty, dark mountain ridge of Fer’a 
by a narrow cleft-like ravine, which 
continues for 6 hrs. winding among 
naked rocks and beetling cliffs—one 
wild scene of sternest grandeur. 
mountains aré chiefly griinstein, with 
some slate, and here and there veins 
of porphyry; while the higher peaks 
have crests of sandstone. A few 
shrubs sprinkle the bottom of the glen, 


himself | but the sides are entirely naked. The 


name of this sublime but sombre glen 
is Wady 8’al. The mountains on the 
left at last disappear, and the broad 
“Sandy Plain” (Debbet er-Ramleh 
opens up a view to the base of the 
mountains. Now the skill and ex- 
perience of the guide are put to the test, 
for the country for many a long mile 
is dreary, desolate, featureless, and 
pathless. Onward the little caravan 
sweeps, with slinging pace and noise- 
less footfall, over bleak hills, through 
parched vales, and across sandy downs, 
till, after nearly 7 hrs. travel, the 
sheikh affirms that ’Ain el-Hudhera is 
not far distant, and the camels are 
despatched for a supply of water. On 
many of the isolated rocks of this 
dreary plain are Sinaitic inscriptions ; 
and one rock, called by Mr. Stanley 
“ Herimat . has its lower part 
almost cove with them. There 
are here also inscriptions in Arabic, 
two or three in Greek, with many 
animals, some recent, but the greater 
pert of the same date as the inscrip- 
tions. 

There can be little doubt that ’Ain 
Hudhera is the Hazeroth of the Bible, 
the third station of the Israelites after 


38 . Route 2.—Mount Sinai to ’ Akabah. 


their departure from Sinai, at which 
they abode for seven days (Num. xi. 
35, and xii. 15, 16). The radical 
letters in the Arabic and Hebrew are 
the same, and the position answers 
well, being about 18 hrs. from Sinai. 
Here the Israelites established their 
first permanent camp after leaving the 
plain of Rahah ; here Aaron and his 
sister Miriam tried to excite a rebel- 
lion against Moses ; and here was the 
guilty Miriam smitten with leprosy. 
In that dreary waste behind us, 
through which we have just passed, 
the Israelites murmured at their food, 
and longed for the dainties of Egypt. 
To rebuke their unbelief the Lord 
sent them a miraculous supply of 
quails; and then, to punish their re- 
bellion, He swept away thousands by 
the plague. 

“The determination of this point,” 
Dr. Robinson says, “is perhaps of 
more importance in Biblical history 
than would at first sight appear ; for if 
this position be adopted for Hazeroth, 
it settles at once the question as to the 
whole route of the Israelites between 
Sinai and Kadesh. It shows that 
they must have followed the route on 
which we now are to the sea, and so 
along the coast to ’Akabah, and thence 
probably through the Wady el-’Ara- 
bah to Kadesh.” I agree with the 
learned professor as to the general 
line of the route ; but I think the Is- 
raelites would naturally pass some 
distance to the north of the path here 
indicated, so as to strike not merely 
the fountain of Hudhera, but likewise 
the still more important one of ’Ain 
in the wady of the same name. 
Having traversed Wady el-’Ain, which 
is not far distant from Hudhera, they 
would turn down the sublime glen of 
Wetir, and thus gain the shore of the 
gulf, It was this latter route Laborde 
took in his journey westward to Sinai; 
and this also was the route of Miss 
Martineau, Mr. Bartlett, and appa- 
rently Mr. Roberts. The scenery of 
Wady Wetir is perhaps unsurpassed 
in the peninsula. “As we tured to 
the rt. into Wady Wetir (says Miss 
M.) we came upon a scene which 
might almost be called verdant. The 


Sect. I. 


asphodel and other plants, which 
grew on perches and in crevices of 
the red rock, were of the liveliest 
green, while tamarisks spread their 
sprawling growth in all nooks and on 
many platforms. The white sand 
under foot, the verdure skirting the 
mountains, and the precipitous rocks, 
of a rich red hue, rising so as to 
narrow the sky, and to lessen the. 
glare to a pleasant light, filled us 
with a delight altogether new.” The 
view through the gorge when we 
catch the first glimpse of the moun- 
tains of Arabia, with the deep blue of 
the sky above, and the deeper tint of 
the sea below, is described as “like a 
peep at fairy-land through the, mouth 
of a giant’s cave.” 

From the point we had reached in 
the dreary wilderness, near the foun- 
tain of Hudhera, our path runs through 
a country near the base of the 
southern branch of the Tih moun- 
tains. In less than half an hour is a 
narrow pass, and a slight descent 
among sandstone hills. Here on the 
rocks to the left are some rude Arabic. 
inscriptions, with sketches of various 
known and a few unknown animals. 
Passing Wady Ghuzfleh with its sand- 
stone cliffs, and a network of other 
wadys, we at length reach the narrow 
ravine of S’adeh, which we follow in all 
its windings down to the pebbly shore 
of the blue Gulf of ’Akabah. A small 
brackish fountain, called ’Ain Nuwei- 
bi’a, is near the mouth of the ravine, 
and just 9 hrs, distant from Hazeroth. 

Pleasant is the sight of the waters 
after the parched desolation of the 
rocky wilderness ; pleasant too is the 
gentle. murmuring of the waves as 
they break on the pebbly beach, after. 
the death-like silence of the glens of 
Sinai; but pleasanter than all is the 
fresh breath of the zephyr, which, after 
playing with the sunlit waves, fans 
our burning cheeks, By the seaside 
one never feels alone, even though the 
shore be solitary as that of Elath’s 
Gulf. Every heaving of a wave seems 
like a throb of friendship's heart, and 
every “voice of the waters” like the 
whisper of affection. Here there is 
somcthing more than this—the scenery 


SINal. 


on the one hand is so wild, so bare, 
and on the other so ethereal, so fairy- 
like, that one is never tired gazing 
on it. Now we glance at some new 
feature of the mountain barrier; and 
now turn our eyes over the deep blue 
waters to the beautiful hills of Arabia, 
whose rich tints are ever changing, 
as the sun rolls on his course, from 
the “russet hue”. of early morn, to 
the light azure of noonday, and the 
deep purple of even; and then besides, 
the countless shells that strew the 
beach, exhibiting endless varieties of 

ful forms and delicate colours, 

the mind with admiration and 
wonder. 

And this is the Gulf of Evats, on 
which, well-nigh 3000 years ago, the 
fleets of Solomon sailed, bearing the 
gold of Ophir, and the spices of Hind, 
to the little kingdom of Israel. (1 Kings 
ix.) But the kingdom of Israel has 
long since pas away; and the 
Gulf of Elath is dese now as the 
wilderness that surrounds it; and the 
wealth of the East is conveyed by 
another channel to another little king- 
dom in the Western Ocean. Who can 
tell what changes may occur ere 
30 centuries more have elapsed ? 

A long march of more 14 hrs. 
brings us to a point where a bold and 
rugged cliff projects into the sea, 
leaving no space even for a bridle- 
path along its base. This, and ano- 
ther cliff farther in advance, are sur- 
mounted by passes of great difficulty, 
such, in fact, as we have not hitherto 
encountered. The first is called Hu- 
weimirat. It was in the valley be- 
tween the two that Burckhardt was 
attacked by the robbers, one of whom 
was killed by his resolute attendant, 
Hamd ; and it was somewhere in this 
region that Sheikh Suleimfn, Mr. 
Fisk’s guide, was shot dead by the 
Muzeiny Arabs in 1842. As the in- 
cident is instructive, I here give it 
nearly in Mr. Fisk’s own words. He 
was escorted, as is usual, by one of the 
tribes possessing the right of Ghafir. 
At. that time the Muzeiny were at- 
tempting to secure for themselves the 
privilege of at least taking all travel- 
lers from the convent to ’Akabah, 


Route 2.—Mount Sinai to ’ Akabah, 


39 


through their own territory. While 
Mr. Fisk and party were resting, the day 
before the murder, in Wady el-’Ain, a 
party of the Muzeiny, headed by Sheikh 
Farrik, came to his Arabs to make a 
final effort at supporting, without 
bloodshed, their claim. en Farrik 
was about to retire, after an unsuc- 
cessful attempt, an Arab of his tribe 
secretly informed him that his (Far- 
rik's) nephew had been shot on the 
previous day by one of Suleiman’s 
tribe, in reference to the very ques- 
tion then pending. All negotiation 
was at once broken up, though it ap- 
pears that Suleiman never knew the 
cause, The Muzeiny assembled in 
force, followed the party, and over- 
took them during the night at their 
encampment on the shore of the gulf. 
Sheikh Suleiman was enticed away in 
the morning under the plea of renew- 
ing negotiations. After some talk, 
Sheikh Farrik suddenly said to Sulei- 
man, “We care not for the money, 
for there is blood between us.” That 
moment one of the Muzeiny, raising his 
gun, shot Suleiman through the body ; 
Farrik, drawing his sabre, cut him 
down, and two other shots immediately 
followed, completing the bloody tra- 
gedy. Such is a recent and striking 
instance of blood revenge. 

After scaling the two promontories, 
the little island of Kureiyeh (“ the Vil- 
lage”) comes in view in front, about 4 
m. from the shore; and its picturesque 
battlemented cliffs are distinctly seen 
from the path. It is merely a granite 
rock, some 300 yds. in length, contain- 
ing the ruins of a medisval fortress, 
encompassed by a wall with two gate-. 
ways. This is the stronghold of Ailah. 
mentioned by Abulfeda. Its founder 
is unknown; but in a.p. 1182 it was. 
besieged by Rainald of Chatillon, and 
resisted all his efforts to gain it. In 
the time of the Arab historian it was 
already abandoned. Continuing along 
the shore, and sweeping round the 
northern end of the gulf, we at length 
reach the palm-groves and square 
fortress of ‘Akabah, 9 hrs. march 
from the pass of Huweimirat. 


a 


40 


>AKABAH—ELATH. 


The name 'Ahabah signifies a “ steep 
descent,” and is derived from the wild 
pass on the Haj road, down the weat- 
ern mountain, from the plateau of Tih 
to the head of the gulf. As applied to 
the village and fortress the name is 
modern; but there is an important 
remark in the geography of Edrisi—he 
calls this pass "Akabat Ailah. This 
gulf was from a very early period called 
the Gulf of Elath (or Ailah by the 
Greeks), from a city of that name which 
stood on its shores (1 Kings ix. 26), 
at its northern extremity (Deut. ii. 8). 
The town was built by iah king of 
Judah about s.c. 800, and appears to 
have supplanted as a port the more 
ancient Ezion-geber, where the fleet of 
Solomon was built (2 Kings xiv. 22). 
It soon afterwards sed into the 
hands of the King of Syria (2 Kings 
xvi. 6) ; and it remained an important 
commercial city during the whole 
period of this country’s occupation by 
the Greeks and Romans. It early be- 
came an episcopal see, and during the 
4th and 5th centuries bishops of Ailah 
were present at the councils of the 
Christian Church; but like so many 
other flourishing cities of Arabia and 
Syria, it fell to ruin under the wither- 
ing rule of Islam. When Baldwin I. 
of Jeruselem made his bold excursion 
into the dreary waste of Arabia he 
found Ailah forsaken (a.p 1116), and 

laced in it « garrison ; but 50 yrs. later 
adin wrested it out of the hands ofthe 
Crusaders. In Abulfeda’s time it was 
deserted, with the exception of the few 
soldiers left in the castle to guard the 
Haj caravans. About 4 m. north of 
"Akabah, near the shore, are some 
mounds of rubbish, which doubtless 
mark the site of the ancient city; and 
the wretched huts of ’Akabah are now 
its only representative. The present 
fortress (Burckhardt says) was built 
by a ruler of t in the 16th centy., 
as one of a long line on the Haj road ; 
intended both for the protection of 
pil ims and the storing of supplies. 
t is now garrisoned by a few “ irregu- 
lars,” commanded by a petty officer. 
Elath and Ezion-ge are men- 


Route 3.—’ Akabah to Wady Musa, 


Sect. I. 


tioned as on the route of the Israelites 
on their return from Kadesh. They 
were refused a passage through Edom, 
and were thus forced to pass round its 
southern and eastern borders (Deut. 
ii. 8; Jud, xi. 18). 


ROUTE 3. 


*"aKABAH TQ WADY MUSA—PETRA. 


*Akabah to Wady Ghiirundel 
Enter mountains of Edom .. 
Wady Masa—Petra .. .. 


Total .. .. ee 


’Akabah is the utmost point to which 
the Tawarah Arabs can safely con- 
duct the traveller; and before attempt- 
ing to proceed to Petra an agreement 
must be made with the ’Alawin—an 
impudent and lawless set of vagabonds 
as ever pilgrim had to deal with. 
Their old Sheikh Hussein has acquired 
no enviable notoriety for an “itching 
palm;” but this failing might be 
overlooked if after driving his hard 

argains he showed any disposition to 
oblige his employers, or manifested any 
of the politeness generally character- 
istic of his race. On more than one 
occasion he bas been guilty of grossly 
insulting those whom he was bound to 
protect ; and he seems to have barely 
stopped short of nal violence. 
No traveller ought to tolerate such 
conduct ; and if it should be found 
impossible to resist his indignities dur- 
ing the journey, care should be taken 
to deduct a round sum from his pay at 
Hebron. Were this plan followed by 
one or two parties, the sheikh would 
doubtless “ mend his manners ” for the 
future. His son Mohammed is better 


Bl wn ak 


Sin al. 


reported of, at least so far as regards 
his treatment of those he conducts: 
Mr. Bartlett was satisfied with him; 
and Mr. Stanley says, “I feel bound to 
mention the almost princely courtesy 
which he showed to us during the 
journey.” If travellers will refresh 
their memories with the few hints I 
have already given as to the mode of 
dealing with the Bedawin and others, 
they will perhaps find it less difficult 
to deal even with the rascally 'Alawin. 
The sums generally demanded by 
Sheikh Hussein for conveying the tra- 
veller to Petra and Hebron are exorbi- 
tant, and should be steadfastly resisted. 
The following sums have been paid :— 
Kinnear and Roberts, for a party of 3 
persons — camels, escort, &c., 4500 
piastres. Dr. Olin and party, for each 
camel 280 piastres, and for each Arab 
forming escort 260 piastres. Miss 
Martineau and , each person to 
pay 1000 piastres for escort, and 250 
over and above for every camel requir- 
ed. Mr. Bartlett, from ’Akabah to 
eee ane ‘luding back to Cairo, 3000 
pias including everything. It is 
absolute folly to pay such a tax as 
this. There is little to be seen at 
*Akabah, and there is nothing on the 
route to attract special attention more 
than in any other part of the desert. 
By turning from the convent of Sinai 
northward to the fortress of Nukhl, 
where the Tawarah can safely conduct 
the traveller, he escapes the ’Alawin, 
and can easily make a moderate bar- 
gain with the Tiabah Arabs for an 
escort to Petra. The difference in dis- 
tance is not much over a day. If, 
however, the traveller wishes to visit 
"Akabah, it is as well to try to make 
an arrangement with Hussein. The 
distance to Petra is 3 days, thence 
to Hebron 45 hrs., or 5 good days; I 
would, therefore, consider the sum of 
250 piaatres for each nee sufficient 
cover all expenses o carriage, 
and sheikh. Dr. Robinson paid onl 
135 piastres per camel from ’Akaba 
to Hebron through the desert of Tih, 
though the distance is the same aa by 
Petra. Should the ’Alawin refuse a 
fair sum, better make a détour along 
the Haj road westward to Nukhl with 


Route 3.—’Akabah to Wady Musa. 41 


the Tawarah — this is about 3 days, 
and ought not to cost more than 60 
piastres a camel ; but to prevent im- 
position, it would be well to make a 
conditional agreement to this effect 
with the Tawarah escort before leav- 
ing Cairo. The knowledge of such an 
agreement might help to bring Hus- 
sein to terms. At Nukhl Tidhah 
Arabs can generally be met with ; 
and several parties have lately followed 
this route. » 

During the spring of the present 
year (1857) travellers have encountered 
more usual difficulty in their 
visits to Petra. It appears that the 
"Alawin were engaged in some war in 
the interior of the desert, and could 
not be got to ‘Akabah to form an es- 
cort. The Fellahin too, who inhabit the 
defiles of Wady Masa, showed an in- 
solence and a rapacity far beyond even 
all former experience. Whether this 
was owing to the absence of the ’Ala- 
win it may be difficult to say; but I 
rather think it is just a part of that 
spirit of insubordination which is 
creeping over the whole of Syria. Be 
this as it may, no party, I believe, was 
permitted to remain more than about 
24 hrs. amid the ruins, and during that 
time they were exposed to every 
species of outrage and violence. Every 
traveller was “dogged ” from cave to 
cave, and from glen to glen, by parties 
of armed savages, shouting and yelling, 
and often putting knives to his throat 
and guns to his breast, while they de- 
manded bakhshish : some were not per- 
mitted to visit certain prominent build- 
ings except by paying a large extra 
fee: articles of dress, tent furniture, 
and arms were openly snatched from 
others, and only given up on payment 
of a ransom: and one large party, for 
attempting to resist the exactions of 
these ruffians, were deliberately fired 
upon in their tent, and had a servant 
dangerously wounded. 

The Fellahin have doubtless reaped 
a golden harvest during the past year, 
and, like the lion after a taste of blood, 
they will be all the more savage in fu- 
ture. Except some means be taken to 
subdue them, Petra may almost be con- 
sidered shut up for the present: few 


fi 


42 


will wish to expose themselves to in- 
solence and outrage, not to say danger, 
for the sake of a few hours among the 
ruins. Petra, doubtless, amply repays 
a toilsome journey ; but it is question- 
able whether a mere peep at its splen- 
dours, such as every traveller durin 
the past season had to rest satisfi 
with, is worth the insolence and vio- 
lence it entails. At Cairo, or the 
convent of Sinai, or at Jerusalem, tra- 
vellers may learn the stgte of matters, 
and act accordingly. 

Now, however, taking it for granted 
that the Fellahin are propitious, that a 
bargain has been concluded, and that 
Sheikh Hussein or his son has taken 
the lead, we set out for the “rock city 
of Edom.” Our way is up the ’Arabuh 
(“the Plain ”)s that singular valley 
which, beginning at Antioch, divides 
Syria through its centre, and forms a 
connecting link between the Mediter- 
ranean and the Red Sea. It is here 
parched and barren ; bounded on both 
sides by jogged mountain ranges. Up 
this valley the Israelites probably 
journeyed from the wilderness of Sinai 
to esh-barnea ; and down it they 
certainly came again, long afterwards, 
when refused a passage through the 
territories of Edom (Deut. ii. 8). 


On entering Wady 'Arabah we see 
on the east side (2 hrs. from ’Akabah) 
a low gap in the hills, called Wady el- 
Ithm, which intersects the mountain 
range, and still forms one of the regu- 
lar roads from ’Akabah to Petra. In 
ancient times it was the line of the 
great highway between Elath and that 
city. The range on the western side 
of the ’Arabeh is here limestone, and 
that opposite granite. After passing 
the opening of Wady Ithm, the next 
important valley on the right is Tubal, 
where the red sandstone first appears 
surmounting the gray nite. In 
about 15 hrs. from ’Akabah the en- 
trance of Wady Ghirundel is seen 
on the right, a narrow gorge shut in by 
rugged sandstone cliffs. A short dis- 
tance up it is 9 small fountain, around 
which a few pair trees cluster, and a 
verdant plat spreads out, inviting 
us to pitch pur tents on the green 


Route 3.—’ Akabah to Wady Musa. 


Sect. I. 


turf, and luxuriate for a time beneath 
the shade by the still waters. Some 
4 hrs, farther north is a rising ground, 
probably the watershed of the great 
valley. A commanding view is here 
obtained southward toward the ancient 
Elath ; but one still more interestin 
lies on the opposite side to the N. 
There are the mountains of Edom 
rising up, dark, and desolate, as if the 
predicted curse had been fulfilled to 
the letter; there too, overtopping 
them all, is the double peak of Mount 
Hor, towering like a huge fortress from 
its rocky base. 1 h. more, and the 
scene is changed again. The bleak 
wastes of the ’Arabah are left behind, 
and we suddenly dive in among the 
wild hills of Edom, our narrow path 
making many a turn and wind between 
fantastic cliffs, through which the 
slanting sun shoots long rays here and 
there, lighting up the rugged bottom of 
the ravine. Tufts of grass, and gay 
wild flowers, diversify the little plat- 
forms among the variegated rocks; 
while here and there a miniature corn- 
field affords a pleasing contrast, in its 
bright green hue, to the sombre colours 
of the sandstone strata. The way 
becomes more and more entangled 
among the mountains as we advance ; 
and the deep red cliffs draw closer and 
closer, narrowing the sky above and 
the track below, until the mind be- 
comes almost as gloomy as the defile 
itself. At length we ascend, and 
surmount a high ridge, an offset from 
the southern base of Mount Hor; but 
our way immediately descends again 
into a rocky ravine, where oleanders 
and isks shoot up amid the fallen 
blocks, and where the sculptured 
facades and dark entrances of nume- 
rous tombs range along the perpen- 
dicular sides of the cliffs overhead. 
Through this strange avenue we wind 
for nearly two miles, until it ushers us 
intoa still stranger amphitheatre, where 
we have before us the fallen palaces, 
and around us the rock-hewn sepul- 
chres of Petra. The whole distance 
from el-’Arabah is 8 hrs. : 


OE ne er enretn trnne se 


SINal, 


EasTERN ROUTE FROM 'AKABAH TO 
PETRA, 


Laborde appears to be the only 
traveller who followed the ancient 
road from Elath to the capital of 
Edom. His description of it is neither 
full nor satisfactory; but he says 
enough to show that both in scenery 
and antiquarian interest it is prefer- 
able to that through the ’Arabah. It 
enters the wild gorge of Wady el-Ithm, 
where several walls may be observed 
crossing the ravine. These are con- 
structed by the Bedawin for defence, 
and are sufficient to prevent any sud- 
den foray of horsemen. The wad 
runs up between the mountains, first 
eastward, and then turning N.E. in a 
winding course. Some distance up 
are the ruins of a fortress on a project- 
ing rock, formerly intended to guard 
theroad : other towers occur farther on. 
The wady at length opens on an undu- 
lating plain called Humeiyfimeh, from 
@ ruined town of that name situated 
near the road. After passing this 
town and a fountain, the path strikes 
northward over a mountain ridge, 
crossing in its course the old Roman 
village of Ely, inhabvied by the fella 

i of Eljy, i ited by the 
hin of Wady Masa, it enters the sub- 
lime cleft of Sik, the main approach to 
Petra. The traveller who wishes to 
traverse new ground, and explore an 
interesting region, would do well to 
try this eastern route. 


EpoM. 


. The country we have now in 

traversed, and whose rock-hewn capital 
we have just entered, is the ancient 
Edom. Its name Edom, “Red,” may 
perhaps be regarded as indicative of 
the peculiar colour of its mountains; 
though it may be more directly derived 
from Esau, whose inheritance it be- 
came, and who had got the name Edom 


suggested by his appearance at his 
birth (Gen. xxv. 25), and confirmed 
by the disposal of his birthright for a 


mess of red lentiles (Gen. xxv. 30). It 


Route 3.—Edom. 


43 


was anoiently called Mount Seir, 
“Rugged,” and embraced the hilly 
region extending along the east side 
of the ’Arabah, from the southern end 
of the Dead Sea to the Gulf of ’Akabah, 
Its first inhabitants were the Horttee, 
“dwellers in caves,” who were driven 
out by Esau and his descendants. In 
later times King David conquered 
Edom; and Solomon built his great 
fleet at its only, or principal, seaport. 
But the Edomites soon r regained 
their independence; and, with the ex- 
ception of temporary defeats by Ama- 
ziah and Uzziah, they lived in security. 
During the troublous times that wasted 


y | Judah and Israel, the Edomites pros- 


pered, and, joining the Chaldseans, con- 
tributed to the overthrow of these 
kingdoms, They then occupied the 
northern section of the desert of Tih, 
and many towns of southern Palestine. 
But under the warlike Maccabees they 
were in turn subdued, and governed 
by Jewish prefects. One of these, 
Antipatar, an Idumsean by birth, by 
the favour of Cesar was made procu- 
rator of all Juda; and his son Herod 
the Great became “ king of the Jews.” 
While the Edomites (or Idumemans, 
as the Greeks called them) extended 
their territory towards Palestine, they 
were themselves driven out of their 
native mountains by the Nabatheans, an 
Arab tribe descended from Nebaioth, 
Ishmael’s oldest son (1 Chron. i. 29), 
which then possessed a great part of 
southern Arabia. They seized Petra, 
and established themselves there, at 
least as early as the 3rd centy. B.c. ; and 
their possessions gradually grew into 
the kingdom of Arabia Petrea, many: 
of whose princes bore the name Aretas. 
One of these was father-in-law of 
Herod ; and it was for repudiating his 
daughter in order to marry Herodias 
that Herod was rebuked by John the 
Baptist (Luke iii. 19). The same 
Aretas afterwards seized the city of 
Damascus, and held it at the time of 
Paul's conversion (2 Cor. xi. 32). The 
kingdom of Arabia was finally sub- 
dued by the Romans in a.p. 105. The 
Nabatheans were a commercial people, 
and were the principal carriers of the 
luxuries of India and southern Arabia 


44 


across the peninsula of Sinai to the 
shores of the Mediterranean. To them 
Petra owes those great monuments 
which are now the wonder and ad- 
miration of the world. 

Edom was, in the first centuries of 
the Christian era, included in the epis- 
copal province of Palzstina Tertia, of 
which Petra was metropolis. After 
the Mohammedan ‘conquest its com- 
mercial importance fell away, and its 
flourishing port and inland cities be- 
camé ruinous and deserted. The 
Mohammedans were the instruments 
by which the fearful predictions of 
Scripture were literally fulfilled :— 
“Thus saith the Lord; Behold, O 
Mount Seir, I am against thee, and I 
will stretch out mine hand against 
thee, and I will make thee most deso- 
late. Then will I cut off from it him 
that passeth out and him that re- 
turneth, and I will make thee perpetual 
desolations, and thy cities s not 
return.” (Ezek. xxv.) 

The geological structure of Edom is 
somewhat peculiar. Along the base 
of the mountain range, on the side of 
the ’Arabah, are low calcareous hills. 
To these succeed lofty masses of 
igneous rock, chiefly porphyry; over 
which lies the red and variegated sand- 
stone in irregular ridges and abrupt 
cliffs, with deep ravines between. The 
latter strata give the mountains their 
most striking features. The average 
elevation is about 2000 ft. On the east- 
ward is a long, almost unbroken lime- 
stone ridge, higher than the other, and 
declining gently to the great plateau 
of the Arabian desert. The breadth 
of the mountain region does not exceed 
20m. The valleys and flat terraces 
on the mountain sides and summits 
are covered with soil of almost un- 
equalled richness, from which trees, 
shrubs, and flowers now spring up 
luxuriantly. All this shows the mt- 
nute accuracy of Bible topography, 
where we find Issac saying to his son 
Esau,—* Thy dwelling shall be the 
fatness of the earth, and of the dew of 
he from above.” (Gen. xxvii. 
39. 


Route 3.—Petra—Historical Sketch. 


Sect. IL. 


PETRA—WaDyY MuSa. 
Historical Sketch.— The foregoing 


notices of Edom pre the way for 
a sketch of Petra. the Old Testa- 
ment it is referred to only twice. It 


is said of King Amazish, he “slew of 
Edom in the valley of Salt ten thou- 
sand, and took Selah by war.” (2 Kings 
xiv. 7.) Isaiah tells the Moabites to 
“gend the lamb from the ruler of the 
land from Sela to the wilderness, unto 
the mount of the daughter of Zion ” 
(xvi. 1); alluding doubtless to the 
tribute paid to Israel. At this time 
the Moabites would seem to have in- 
habited Petra, or Sela, both of which 
names are descriptive of the city, sig- 
nifying “Rock.” Petra was a city of 
Edom, but never the capital of the 
Edomites; their capital was Bozrah, 
perhaps the present Buseirah. (See 
Route 4.) : 
Towards the end of the 4th centy. 
B.c. Petra was taken by the Naba- 
theans, and afterwards became, as we 
have seen, their capital. The city is 
briefly but accurately described by 
Strabo, in whose days it was the great 
place of transit for the products of the 
East on their way to the western king- 
doms, Itis mentioned in the writings 
of Pliny, Josephus, Eusebius, and 
Jerome ; and its name as an episcopal 
see is found in the Notitis Ecclesias- 
tice so late as the 6th centy. But 
afterwards it entirely disappears from 
history, and for more than 1200 yrs. its 
very site remained unknown. It was 
not until the reports collected by 
Seetzen in 1807,respecting the wonder- 
ful remains in Wady Mfisa, had been 
verified by the discovery and personal 
examination of them by Buckhardt, 
that the latter first ventured to sug- 
gest their identity with the long-lost 
capital of Arabia Petrea. Burckhardt 
entered Wady Miea, Aug. 22, 1812. 
In 1818 Messrs. Irby, Mangles, Banks, 
and Legh visited it, after encountering 
great opposition. 10 yrs. later Messrs. 
Laborde and Linant spent 8 days 
among the ruins, and carried away 
with them a map, and a large portfolio 
of interesting and instructive drawings. 
From these the ancient capital of the 


SINAI. 


Nabatheans has become better known 
to European readers than from all 
the descriptions that have since fol- 
lowed them. Monuments like those 


of Petra it is difficult to describe ; and | p 


a good sketch is better than half a 
volume of letterpress. To the works 
of Laborde, Bartlett's ‘Forty Days in 
the Desert,’ and Keith's ‘Prophe- 
cies,’ I refer the reader who may not 
be able to see the originals. Two of 
the views in the latter work from 
daguerreotypes, of the “Corinthian 
Tomb,” and the “ Deir,” are exquisite. 
But Petra is one of those places where 
both pencil and photograph fail to 
carry away 2 full delineation of nature : 
all want the rich colouring which 
gives to the real scene such unrivalled 
charms, 


DESCRIPTION OF PETRA. 


- General View.—The first object of 
the traveller on establishing himself 
in Petra, whether he enter it, as we 
have done, by the avenue from the 
south, or by the wild ravine from the 
east, ought to be to select some com- 
manding spot from which to obtain 
a general view of the ruins, and circle 
ofsurrounding tombs. The best place 
for this purpose is perhaps the high 
cliff immediately on the north side of 
the theatre, which he can easily climb 
by a rude and broken staircase com- 
mencing from the uppermost bench. 
Seating himself here, the site of the 
city, with its girdle of sculptured cliffs, 
is spread out before him like a map; 
an ing the accompanying map in 
his hand, he can almost at a glance 
identify the principal monuments. 
He now sees that the city stood in an 
irregular basin, through the bottom 
of which a stream winds: entering at 
the S.E. corner, running northward 
round a spur of the cliff on which he 
stands, and then turning W., it inter- 
sects the ruins, and disappears through 
a wild gorge. The banks on each side 
present narrow strips of level ground, 
and then ascend i ly, but gently, 
to the base of the cliffs, which rise up 
almost sheer precipies from 150 to 300 


= 


Route 3.—Petra—Description. 45 


ft.; while ravines, deep, dark, and 
ed, branch off into the mountains, 
reminding one of the rays of a starfish. 
The whole area available for building 
oses does not exceed 4 m. square. 
But let us take a systematic glance 
at the strange scene now before us, s0 
as to fix the general features firmly in 
our memories. Here close on the 
right is a narrow valley, with the little 
rivulet flowing out from the yawn- 
ing chasm behind. The cliff opposite 
is low; but over it, farther back. Tises 
another and much loftier one, extend- 
ing far to the north, and almost filled 
with beautiful tombs. One among 
them attracts attention by its fine 
Corinthian facade, and another beyond 
it is conspicuous with its three tiers of 
columns. The background on the 
north is filled in by the bare moun- 
tains of Dibdiba, which descend in 
broken masses to the bottom of the 
valley. On the left again is a range 
of precipitous peaks, dotted with the 
dark openings of numerous sepulchres, 
and divided to their base by gloomy 
clefts. Near the spot where the 
streamlet disappears are the crumbling 
walls of an old temple or palace, now 
known by the name of “Pharaoh’s 
Castle,” Kusr Far'én. Immediately 
on the left of the on which we 
stand is a steep acclivity leading up to 
a plateau, which extends along the 
whole summit of the western cliffs to 
the foot of Mount Hor. The Arabs 
call it Sut@h MHarfin, “ Aaron’s 
Plains. 
What strikes us most in the general 
view, a8 well as in a more minute ex- 
amination of Petra, after the great 
natural features have been taken in, is 
the vast multitude of tombs, and the 
gorgeous colouring of the cliffs in 
which they are hewn. The colours 
are not bright or gaudy; they are 
rather subdued, and perhaps even 
dull; but their varying lines, and 
blending hues, are inconceivably beau- 
tiful. Here are deep crimson, blue, 
purple, and yellow, blended harmoni- 
ously together, and suffusing the 
whole sculptured front of noble tomb 
or temple, like the wavy shades of 
watered silk. 


46 _ Route 3.—Petra—the Sik. 


WALKS THROUGH PETRA, 


To the traveller in this city time is 
a great treasure : he knows not when, 
like many of his predecessors, he may 
be compelled to decamp on a moment's 
notice; he knows not where he may 
meet swarms of armed vagabonds 
barring his progress, and shouting 
bakhshish. The longer he stays, as a 
meral rule, the more annoying both 
iends and foes become. News of 
his arrival spreads among the neigh- 
bouring tribes; strangers flock in to 
see what they can make by blustering 
or pilfering ; and the escort becomes 
anxious to flee from complicated difii- 
culties. It is well to pay the hundred 
ptastres ghufr, or “black mail,” which 
the representative of old Abu Zeitan 
thinks himself justified in demanding ; 
if it were only to rid one of the pre- 
sence, even for a single day, of a set 
of half-naked, hungry savages, who 
otherwise dog his steps, and meet 
him in every corner. By the way, the 
“hundred piastres’” has been latterly 
increased almost ad infinitum. But 
to see the “lions” in the shortest 
Possible time is what all will desire : 
therefore recommend a systematic 
plan; and perhaps the best is to pass 
hurriedly out of the city (though one 
has to return by the same path again), 
and begin at the eastern extremity, 
where the wady below the village of 
Eljy contracts to form the wonderful 
chasm of the Sik; and the best time 
for viewing this is the morning, or at 
least the forenoon, when the sun’s rays 
slant down into the ravine, and light 
up the noble facade of the Khusneh. 


The Sik.—Here it was that poor 
Burckhardt obtained his first glance 
at some of the monuments of the long- 
lost city. The memory of his difii- 
culties may well stimulate our ardour 
in these more fortunate days, though 
we cannot but lament the schemes 
and falsehoods by which he thought 

roper to remove or overcome them. 
he fellah who guided him had been 
feed by a pair of old horseshoes, and 
carried in his arms a kid for sacrifice 
at the tomb of Aaron—the ostensible 


Sect.. I. 


object of the visit; while Burckhardt 

himself trudged along on foot with a 

skin of water on his shoulders. Such 

was the way in which he entered the 
lace, who soon afterwards astonished 
urope by his discovery. 

The Sik was anciently the chief, 
and is still by far the most striking, 
approach to the city. In fact, so 
passing strange—so enchanting— is the 
whole scene when first entered from 
this side, that all who can should 
follow Robinson and Burckhardt, 
and, even though at the expense of 
a considerable détour, enter Petra by 
the Sik. Two considerable valleys 
unite below the village of Eljy, and 
form by their junction Wady Masa. 
Down the northern one flows a rivulet 
from a copious fountain half an hour 
distant, ed "Ain Mfsa; it receives 
a small tributary from the southern, 
and then runs on through the Sik, its 
general course being westward. Wady 
Masa is first wide with sloping terraced 
banks; but it soon contracts between 
high cliffs of sandstone. At this point 
the first monuments are seen. Before 
entering the narrow part a group of 
light-coloured rocks is passed on the 
right, in which is a large and singular 
tomb. It consists of a square court 
hewn in the rock; on the western side 
is a facade with pilasters at the angles, 
and a door leading to the interior ; on 
each side of the facade are low wings, 
like porticos, with Doric columns. 
The eastern side of the court is en- 
closed by a wall of masonry, with 
colossal lions much defaced on either 
side of the entrance. The narrow 
portion of the valley, into which we 
now pass, is about 50 yds. wide, and 
the rocks on each side are 50 or 60 ft. 
high. Numerous facades and openings 
of tombs appear on the right, which in 
any other place would be objects of 
interest, but are here passed with in- 
difference as we hasten on to more 
remarkable monuments. Ere we have 
advanced far three singular tombs on 
the rt. arrest attention, and will at 
once recall the well-known form of 
Absolom’s mausoleum in the valley of 
Jehoshaphat. They are masses of rock, 
some 16 ft. square, which have been 


Sryal, 


separated from the adjacent cliffs by 
wide cuttings. The sides contract 
upwards in the Egyptian style; but 
the roofs are flat. In one of them is 
a small sepulchral chamber with a 
low door. A few yds. farther down is 
a very remarkable monument hewn 
out of the cliff on the 1. In front, 
below, is a fagade consisting of a 
portico of six Ionic columns, with 
pediment and a multitude of orna- 
ments. in florid style—more like the 
fantastic scene of a provincial theatre 
than an architectural work in stone. 
Over this is another fagade totally dif- 
ferent in character; being entirely 
plain, with a simple moulding across 
it; but above it, in a recess, are four 
slender pyramids hewn out of the 
rock, The whole is in bad taste, and 
presents no appearance of unity of 
design; yet it is striking, and not 
devoid of beauty. It may be said in- 
deed of all the monuments of Petra, 
taken singly, that they have no claim 
to architectural purity or refined 
taste ; but their position and grouping 
are so peculiar, so grand, t in 
roaming amo them one forgets 
Ruskin’s ‘Lamps,’ with all the light 
they throw on Greek and Roman art, 
and can only gaze on in admiration 
and wonder. I do not envy the man 
who could calmly sit down in a chasm 
of Petra to criticise the proportions of 
one of its rock-hewn tombs or temples. 

But to proceed. We still descend 
the glen, through a street of tombs, 
whose sculptured facades and dark 
doorways line the sombre cliffs and 
insulated peaks on each side; while 
fig-trees of deepest green shoot out 
from chinks in the rock above, and 
luxuriant oleanders almost fill up the 
path below. At some 300 paces from 
the entrance the ravine opens into a 
little amphitheatre, seemingly wholly 
shut in by rocky walls except at the 
spot where we enter. The brook, 
however, continues its course, and the 
eye following it detects a narrow cleft 
in the opposite wall through which it 
disappears. Following it, we pass a 
projecting rock, and suddenly find 
ourselves at the entrance of a terrific 
chasm, formed, as it would seem, by 


Route 3.—Petra—the Stk, 


— 


47 


the rending of the mountain from 
summit to centre. The width is 
only about 12 ft., increasing in places 
to 20 or 80. The sides are perpendi- 
cular or overhanging walls of deep 
red sandstone, at first about 100 ft. 
high, but gradually increasing to 300. 
Nothing could surpass the awful 
grandeur of this ravine; and one 
cannot repress a shudder on lookin 
up from its gloomy depths, through 
the gradually narrowing fissure, to 
the streak of blue sky 
bordered by the rugged summits far 
overhead. Constantly winding, too, 
one seems at every new turn to be 
shut in on all sides, and hopelessly 
imprisoned in the very bowels of the 
earth. Yet here, in this cleft, from 
whence the light of day is well-nigh 
excluded, into the depths of which no 
solitary ray of sunlight can penetrate, 
traces of art and industry are every- 
where visible. Remains of ancient 

avement cover the bottom, once the 
highway to a proud city; along the 
sides are niches hewn in the smooth 
cliff to receive the statues of the good 
and great; and tablets, too, are there 
once inscribed with the records of 
their deeds: on the left is an aque- 
duct tunnelled in the rock, and high 
up on the right is a conduit of earthen 
pipes let into the precipice. These, 
the works of man, are now all ruinous 
and time-worn ; statue and inscription, 
form, name, and story, are alike gone. 
The products of nature are alone 
perennial, for, while the monuments 
of man are all spoiled, the delicate 
branches of the caper-plant hang 
down as fresh and beantiful from the 
chinks in the rock as they did 2000 
years ago; and the foliage of the wild 
fig and tamarisk is as rich, and the 
flower of the oleander as gaudy, as 
they were when the princes of Edom 
dwelt “in the clefts of the rocks, and 
held in pride the height of the hill.” 
(Jer. xlix. 16). 

Such are the features of the Sik, 
which is more than 1 m. in length. 
But perhaps the most striking object 
in the whole extent is the arch near 
its entrance, buttressed high up on the 

cliffs, and spanning the inter- 


48 


vening gulf—seemingly inaccessible to 
human hand, and useless for human 
object; fancy would make it the work 
of some spirit of the mountains con- 
structed as a portal to her wild retreat. 
Curiosity, however, has scaled even 
this height, and solved the mystery of 
its purpose. It supported an aque- 
duct, intended doubtless to convey 
water to the more elevated temples or 


palaces in the city. 


The Khuzneh.— After winding 
through this strange and gloomy 
passage, contending here with the 
straggling branches of the oleander, 
and there with fallen rocks, a scene 
of exquisite beauty — of almost fairy 
splendour—suddenly bursts upon our 
view, for which all we have yet seen 
has not prepared us. A rosy-tinted 
rock appears between the perpendi- 
cular walls of the chasm, within a 
huge niche of which stands the noble 
facade of the great temple of Petra, 
the Khuzneh. It is now we see the 
magic influence of the morning sun, 
as the rays fall slanting on this monu- 
ment, revealing its fine proportions by 
the most artistic blending of light and 
shade, and bringing out the minutest 
details of its gorgeous colouring. In 
the grandeur of its situation, the rich- 
ness of its natural colouring, and the 
singularity of its construction, this 
structure stands. unrivalled in the 
world. It is directly opposite the 
opening of the Sik, hewn out of the 
side of a wider ravine that here passes 
the latter at right angles; and it is so 
placed as to fall fall upon the view of 
every one who enters the city. With 
consummate skill have the archi- 
tects of Petra availed themselves of 
remarkable natural formation to dazzle 
the straitger, as he emerges from an 
all but subterranean defile, by the 
enchanting prospect of one of their 
noblest monuments. Most fortunate, 
too, were they in the material out of 
which it is hewn, for the rosy tint of 
the portico, sculptured pediment, and 
statues overhead, contrasts finely with 
the darker masses of rugged cliff above 
and around, and the deep green of the 
vegetation at its base. The monu- 


a 


Route 3.—Petra—the Khuzneh. 


Sect. I. 


ment is in wonderful preservation ; 
some of the most delicate details of 
the ing are as fresh and sharp as 
if executed yesterday. 

The architecture is Corinthian, but 
the plan is unique. The facade con- 
sists of two stories. The lower one 
has a portico of four columns, 35 ft. 
high, projecting only a few inchee 
from the surface, and surmounted by 
a frieze and pediment delicately sculp- 
tured with vases connected by festoons. 
At the sides of this portico are wings 
like ante ; each having a pilaster at 
the angle supporting a deep cornice. 
On the flat surface of the wings are 
sculptured figures in relief, but so 
much worn as scarcely to be distin- 
guishable. At the level of the apex 
of the pediment runs a horizontal 
moulding, terminating the first story 
and forming the base of the second. 
The upper story is very singular in 

lan. It looks as if a low portico of 
our columns, with a pediment, had 
been cut down the centre, and the 
parts set back so as to afford a clear 
space between them for a small cylin- 
rical monument, surmounted by a 
dome and urn supported by four 
columns, with sculptured figures on 
pedestals between them. There are 
also statues between the columns of 
the dissevered portico. Within the 
great portico is a vestibule, having 
a door opening into a plain lofty 
chamber, behind which is another of 
less size. Small lateral chambers 
also open from the vestibule. The 
whole structure is excavated from the 
solid rock, with the exception of the 
two central columns of the portico, 
one of which has fallen. The age of 
the monument can only be guessed at, 
and ita very object is matter of con- . 
troversy. Was it a temple constructed 
in honour of some god, or a mau- 
soleum hewn out in memory of some 
man? It is in vain we inquire. It 
bears no inscription, preserves no 
name, has no story. “There it stands 
as it has stood for ages, in beauty and 
loneliness,’ having no legend of the 
olden time, no theme on which the 
muse might soar to celebrate its past 
glories. Its rich tints are now lighted 


SInal. 


up bythe morning sun, and now cast 
into shade as he goes down beneath the 
western cliffs; like the magical crea- 
tion of some splendid night vision 
petrified, it strikes the eye once, and 


ever after haunts the memory. 
The name given to it by the Arabs 
is el-Khuzeh, “the Treasure.” Their 


tradition is, that its ancient possessor, 
a Pharaoh of course, deposited in the 
urn which surmounts the facade his 
vast treasures of money and jewels. 
There they still remain beyond the 
reach of human hand, jealously guarded 
by watchful genii. Few of the Beda- 
win can pass without trying his luck 
by an attempt to rifle the precious 
store. Kneeling down, b’tem [Uah, hi 
old matchlock is presented, the cliffs 
re-echo the report, the bullet perchance 
rebounds from the urn, but Fortune will 
not send down upon him her golden 
showers. 


Other Tombe.—We are now in a 
broader ravine, whose course is to- 
wards the N.W. The stream is still 
here with its thickets of oleander, and 
its groups of gay wild flowers; and 
the cliffs still line the sides, honey- 
combed with tombs, exhibiting facades 
of every form and design. Burck- 
hardt has observed that there are not 
perhaps 2 sepulchres in Wady Misa 
perfectly alike; they vary at every turn, 
and on every cliff, in size, shape, and 
ornament. t the most common type 
in this section is that of a truncated 
pyramid, with pilasters at the angles, 
and an ornamented doorway in the 
centre. Some fronts are quite plain ; 
others are embellished with pilasters, 
semi-columns, friezes, and pediments, 
all sculptured in relief on the living 
rock. Some of them, instead of a pe- 
diment, have a flight of steps running 
up from each corner and meeting in 
the centre. This style seems peculiar 
to Petra, and may be called Arabian, 
or more properly Nabathean. Indeed, 
a great majority of the older tombs are 
unique in plan and ornament, and little 
seems to have been borrowed from 
Egypt, Greece, or Rome. The pyrami- 
dai forms were not confined to this 
place, for historians tell us that the 

[Syria and Palestine. 


Route 3.—Petra—the Theatre. 


49 


tomb of Helena at Jerusalem, and the 
tombs of the Maccabees at Modin, had 
pyramids erected over them. In this 
part of the valley is the tomb whose 
architrave once bore a Greek inscrip- 
tion, but both architrave and inscrip- 
tion are now gone, having fallen during 
@ storm of rain while Miss Martineau 
and her party were encamped amid 
the ruins, This fact may partly ac- 
count for the almost total abscnee of 
inscriptions, the action of the elements 
on the soft rock destroying the surface 
where fully exposed. Another proba- 
ble reason is given by Irby and Man- 
gles. In the facades of many of the 
tombs may be seen cavities apparently © 


his | for “pegs or rivets,” used to fasten on 


tablets charged with inscriptions. 


The Theatre—On going down the 
valley a short distance it suddenly ex- 
pands to a width of about 120 yds., 
receiving another narrow ravine from 
the 8S. Here on the left is the theatre, 
wholly excavated in the rock. The 
arena is 120 ft. in diameter, and there 
are 33 tiers of benches, with 3 cunei. 
Above the benches is a row of small 
excavated chambers in the circle of 
the rock, looking down on the stage. 
The scene was of masonry, and is 
entirely destroyed, the bases of 3 
columns alone remaining. It has been 
estimated that this fine structure would 
contain from 3000 to 4000 spectators. 
The view around is remarkable ; the 
cliffs on every side almost filled with 
tombs; and more than a hundred of 
these “ houses of the dead ” were before 
the eyes of the people whenever they 
raised them from the exciting scenes 
of the arena. This view is well known 
from the charming sketches of Laborde 
and Bartlett; it is rather unfortunate, 
however, that neither of these accom- 
plished artists was satisfied with the 
reality, but thought to improve it by 
extemporising a background. The 
commanding view from the cliff to the 
N.W. has already been referred to. 


The Eastern Clif.—Still following 
the stream from the side of the theatre, 
we have on the right a low cliff, like 
a spur from the loftier one behind. 

D 


50 Route 3.—Petra— Tombs. 


The tombs here are very numerous — 
some chaste and simple in style, others 
profusely ornamented ; some low down, 
their openings near the bottom of the 
valley; others high up and almost in- 
accessible. About 200 yds. below the 
theatre the valley opens out into the 

eat basin in which the city stood. 

e now leave the stream to follow 
its own course, and, crossing over to 
the right bank, toil up the 
acclivity, past the end of the low cliff. 
The whole ground on the left is here 
covered with hewn stones, while be- 
hind, near the river-bed, may be seen the 
prostrate columns of a or tem- 
ple. Immediately in front, along the 
face of the precipice, are some of the 
finest monuments of Petra. Here 
Burckhardt numbered 50 tombs close 
together. “Not the least remarkable 
circumstance in the peculiarities of 
this singular spot is the colour of the 
rocks. They present not a dead mass 
of dull monotonous red, but an end- 
less variety of bright and living hues, 
from the deepest crimson to the softest 
pink, verging also sometimes to orange 
and yellow. These varying shades are 
often distinctly marked by waving lines, 
imparting to the surface of the rock a 
succession of brilliant and c¢ i 
tints, like the hues of watered silk, 
and adding greatly to the imposing 
effect of the sculptured monuments. 
Indeed, it would be impossible to give 
to the reader an idea of the singular 
effect of rocks, tinted with the most 
extraordinary hues, whose summits 
present us with Nature in her most 
savage and romantic form; whilst their 
bases are worked out in all the sym- 
metry and regularity of art, with colon- 
nades and iments, and ranges of 
corridors, adhering to their perpendi- 
cular surface.” 


Tomb with the Arched Terrace.—The 
first of the remarkable group of tombs 
on this cliff that calls for particular 
notice is the one which is easily dis- 
tinguished by an arched terrace in 
front, and an ur on its iment. 
The labour of excavation, independent 
of architectural ornament, must have 
been here enormous ere the rock was 


Sect. J, 


down to a workable surface—the 
nt of the facade being about 15 ft. 
within the natural face of the cliff. 
The sides of this deep cutting are 
hewn into open galleries like cloisters, 
each supported by 5 columns. Between 
these is a level terrace of masonry, 
resting on double arches, now y 
ruinous. The facade is composed of 
4 Doric columns, supporting a plain 
entablature and ent; the co- 
lumns are not detached. In the cen- 
tre is a door, with a window over it, 
and higher up are 3 other windows 
between the pillars, the centre one 
having 2 figures in relief. Within is 
a large and lofty chamber, at the 
upper end of which were originally 
6 recesses. “On the establishment of 
Christianity these 6 have been con- 
verted into 3 for the reception of altars, 
and the whole apartment has been 
made to serve as a church ; the fasten- 
ings of the tapestry and pictures are 
still visible in all the walls, and near 
an angle is an jnscription in red paint, 
recording the date of consecration.” 


The Corinthian Tomb is about 100 
yds. farther along the cliff to the N. 
In going to it we pass several of less 
note, some of which have the “stair 
ornament” instead of a pediment. 
This structure strikes one at first sight 
as resembling the Khuzneh, but on 
closer examination we see its infe- 
riority, both in design and execution : 
being exposed to the full force of the 
elements also, itis much defaced. The 
water has worn away the soft rock, 
and brambles and creeping plants 
spring out uxuriantly from the cre- 
vices, partially concealing column and 
frieze. The lower story has 8 semi- 
columns, supporting a kind of double 
cornice, over which there was a pedi- 
ment, now almost gone. The upper 
story is nearly an exact copy of the 
Khuzneh, without the statues. There 
are 8 doors; a large one in the centre, 
admitting to the chief apartment, and 
2 others between the columns on the 
1. The chambers are all plain, but 
the larger one has several recesses, 
apparently for the reception of bodies. 


SInat. 


The Tomb with the triple range of 
Columns is quite close to the latter; 
and, from its situation and size, one of 
the most striking objects in the whole 
valley. The lower story has 4 portals, 
and is ornamented with pilasters, su 
porting an entablature and small pe i- 
ments. Over these were formerly 2 
distinct ranges of Ionic semi-columns, 
18 in each range; but as part of the 
cliff has fallen, only 7 of the upper 
tier now remain. The facade was pro- 
bably carried even to a greater height, 
and surmounted by some appropriate 
ornaments, so that we can now form 
but an imperfect idea of its original 
splendour. On the front are traces 
of paint, and on close examination we 
observe that some of the capitals are 
fastened on, the original rock probably 
being too soft for the details of carv- 
ing. The chambers are plain, but in 
one or two places are the remains of 
stucco ornaments. 

The general effect of this group of 
tombs as viewed from the area of the 
ancient city is very iking. The 
mass of crags out of which they are 
hewn rise up in jagged points, leaving 
between them deep cleits, and throw- 
ing out here and there bold projec- 
tions. From almost every recess 
springs the straggling foliage of the 
bramble, or the deep green caper plant ; 
while tufts of grass and gay flowers 
cling to the rugged surface, and long 
trails of delicate ferns depend from 
the water-drips: add to the gor- 
geous colouring of the rocks them- 
selves, shown off in new tints by the 
light and shade, when the sun’s rays 
fall athwart rough peak and sculptured 
facade, and we have a picture which 
the world cannot match. But what 
must it have been of yore, when every 
tomb and temple was perfect, when 
every niche had its statue, and when 
the whole area below was occupied by 


buildings! 


Tomb with Latin Inscription.—In 
proceeding northward from the com- 
manding position we occupy in front 
of the great tomb, there is an easy 
descent to the bottom of a wady which 
drains the whole of this section of the 


Route 3.—Petra— Tombs. 51 


valley. Here on the face of a project- 
ing crag, which runs out between the 
valley and a side ravine, is another 
fine tomb. The position is well chosen, 
and the details of the architecture are 
chaster than most of the others. In 
front Re a ren rock terrace, reached 

y a broad flight of steps. The facade 
has pilasters at the angles, supporting 
a deep cornice, over which rises a 
plain surface, surmounted by a pedi- 
ment. The portal is small, with an 
ordinary pediment over it, and a semi- 
circular ornament higher up. Here 
on @ tablet is a Latin inscription in 3 
lines, containing the name of Quintus 
Preetextus Florentinus, a Roman ma- 
gistrate, who died in this capital, while 
governor of the province of Arabia : 
this is the only legible inscription 
hitherto discovered in Petra. 

About a quarter of a mile northward 
from the last tomb there is an inter- 
esting group of chambers in the cliff, 
all of which seem to have been de- 
signed as residences for the living. 
One measures 39 ft. by 38 ft. It hag 
a doorway 10 ft. high, a window on 
each side, and 3 corresponding win- 
dows above. It is thus a cheerful, 
well-lighted, apartment. Within is a 
raised dais hewn in the rock, round 3 
sides, and on one side is a small recess 
7 ft. square. Beside it is another 
chamber similarly arranged, having in 
addition a side chamber with a win- 
dow, and in both are the little open- 
ings for interior door-bars. Many 
other apartments in every way similar 
may be seen in the neighbouring 
cliffs, 


Tomb with Sinaitic Inscription.— 
Westward of these latter excavations 
commence the rugged acclivities which 
bound the valley on the N. At the 
N.E. angle a difficult path winds up 
to the elevated plateau of Dibdiba. 
By it Dr. Robinson was driven out by 
old Abu Zeitfin, and here also, appa- 
rently, Irby and Mangles found the 
tomb with the Sinaitic inscription, 
which, so far as I know, has never 
since been seen; and I consequently 
indicate its locality in the hope that 


'gome future traveller may fin it, and 
D 


52 


make an exact copy. It would be of 
great importance to establish the iden- 
tity of its characters with those of 
Wady Mukatteb. It is said to be “on 
the left-hand side of the track leadi 
to Dibdiba, on a large front of pure 
Arabian design, with 4 attached co- 
luamns; and in this monument the 
architect, from failure or defective vein 
in the sandstone, has been obliged to 
carry up the lower half in masonry so 
as to meet the upper, which is sculp- 
tured in the face of the mountain. . . 
The inscription is upon an oblong 
tablet, without frame or relief, but is 
easily distinguished from the rest of 
the surface by being more delicately 
wrought. .... The letters are well 
cut, and in a wonderful state of pre- 
servation, owing to the shelter which 
they receive from the projection of 
cornices, and an eastern aspect.” 

The ravines that branch off from 
this place ta the eastward ought all 
to be carefully explored, as they may 
contain some interesting monuments, 
or valuable inscriptions. Turning to 
the L. we encounter massive rocks and 
cliffs coming down in broken bluffs 
from the mountain on the N. In 
these, too, are numerous tombs, but 
neither so large nor so ornamental 
as those along the eastern precipice. 


The Deir.—Passing by the rugged 
projections and deep clefts that furrow 
the northern slopes, we reach the N.W. 
angle of the basin, and, turning 8S. a 
few yds., observe on the rt. a narrow 
ravine coming down from the N. : this 
is the way to the Deir. In visiti 
this, as well as the other more dis- 
tant monuments, the traveller ought 
to take an Arab guide, as he is apt to 
lose his way and get entangled amid 
the wadys. The ravine leading to the 
Deir is narrow, wild, and steep; in 
some places tangled thickets of shrubs 
almost bar the passage, as it winds 
round huge blocks of sandstone which 
have fallen from the cliffs overhead. 
In other places so close do the cliffs 
approach, and so steep is the ascent, 
that it would be impassable but for the 
excavations along the side, and the 
rude steps hewn in the rock. The 


Route 8.—Petra—the Deir. 


Sect. I. 


defile becomes wilder and more pic- 
turesque as we ascend, now opening 
up a vista through the rocks on the 
prostrate ruins of the city, now diving 


ng | into the very heart of the mountain 
beneath overhanging precipices, from 


the fissures of which the wild fig and 
the yew-tree spring ; and now skirting 
the edge of yawning chasms whose 
gloomy depths the eye cannot fathom 

m the narrow path. Here and there 
on the smooth rocks are a few Sinattic 
inscriptions. After a full half-hour’s 
toilsome ascent we reach, near the 
mountain’s summit,a square area about 
260 ft. on each side, partly formed by 
the excavation of the rock and partly 
by masonry; on the northern side of 
this area stands the Deir. 

The Deir is a huge monolithic tem- 
ple, hewn out of the side of a cliff 
which projects from a high plateau. 
It faces Mount Hor, whose rugged 
summit towers in lone majesty over 
against it. In general design it re- 
sembles the Corinthian tomb. Like 
it, the lower story has 8 semi-columns ; 
but here the lines are broken by re- 
cesses and projections, and there are 
also niches between the exterior co- 
lumns. The upper story has 2 addi- 
tional compartments, or turrets, the 
object of which is not easily seen. 
The facade is nearly double the size 
of the Khuyzneh, being 150 ft. in 
length, by about the same in extreme 
height, and is in admirable preserva- 
tion. Some idea may be formed of its 
massive proportions by the measure- 
ment of its details. The lower co- 


ting |lumns are 7 ft. in diameter, and over 


50 in height, almost rivalling those of 
the great temple at Ba’albek ; the in- 
terior is one vast hall, perfectly plain. 
On the back wall is a broad arched 
niche, a little above the floor, with 2 
or 3 steps leading to it on each side— 
not e the niche for the altar of a 
Greek ch. The arch appears to have 
been once ornamented by a border of 
some sort fastened into a groove cut 
round it. A rude staircase leads up 
to the top of the structure, and on one 
of the stairs are some Sinaitic inscrip- 
tions. 

The whole aspect of this singular 


SiInab 


and beautifal edifice is undoubtedly 
that of a heathen temple. “ With this 
view also accords the broad esplanade 
in front, and the road leading up to 
the place, hewn out of the rock with 
immense labour. It would be difficult 
to account for such a road to a mere 
private tomb, and this of itself seems 
to mark it as a public structure. In 
a later age it became a Christian ch., 
and then perhaps the niche was ex- 
cavated.’”’ I have seen, however, niches 
such as this in several other excavated 
temples. There is one at Menin near 
Damascus. 

Immediately opposite the Deir is 
another high cliff, which appears to 
have been too tempting a site for the 
architects of Petra to neglect. In the 
lower part of it are several excavated 
chambers, while a staircase leads to a 
level area above, where are the bases 
of columns in situ in front of another 
and larger excavated chamber, which 
seems to have been once the shrine of 
a temple. Within is a highly orna- 
men rote and without are some 
se ents of mosaic pave- 
mont f wnttorel over the rocks. Above 
this again rises the summit of the cliff, 
on which buildings once stood, com- 
manding a view of singular wildness 
over a troubled sea of mountain peaks 
to the valley of the ’Arabah, and the 
frontiers of Palestine far beyond. 

From this peak, some 1500 ft. above 
the site of the city, we must again de- 
scend by the same route; for though 
several ravines branch off from ‘the 
platform in front of the Deir, none 
appears practicable save that up which 
the staircase has been hewn. In 
many places we observe, in going 
down, branch ravines and clefts in 
the mountain, some of them partially 
excavated to afford a passage, pro- 
bably, to unexplored tombs or temples. 
Much still remains here for future ex- 
plorers; and perhaps some zealous 
antiquary will one day be repaid for 
extra toil, by bringing to light inter- 
esting monuments of former ages. 


The Western Cliffs—On emerging 
from the glen leading from the Deir, 
we have the valley on the 1,, and the 


Route 3.—Petra— Cliffs— Acropolis. 


~~ 


ony 


53 


wostern range of lary on par rt: 
ey are lofty, irregular, jagged masses 
of oy stones dotted nearly all over 
with the dark openings of innumer- 
able caves. These are not so tasteful 
or so highly ornamented as those on 
the opposite side. After walking 
some distance south we reach the en- 
trance of a sublime gorge, into which 
the little rivulet of Wady Masa winds. 
Its ragged sides are filled with caves, 
many of them apparently more ancient 
than those in the main valley. Their 
style, too, is different — resembling 
primitive dwelli for the living, 
rather than sepulchres for the dead. 
This ravine deserves to be explored, 
if it were for nothing else but to solve 
the mystery of the streamlet, and to 
see whether it dives into a gloomy 
cave in the heart of the mountains, 
as the Arabs maintain, or whether it 
finds a narrow track through the 
ridge, far away into the ’Arabah. It 
is no easy task, however, to advance 
far into this glen. Oleanders spread 
out their branches till they touch the 
cliffs on each side; and tangled shrubs 
and creeping plants, with feathery 
tamarisks, combine to bar the passage. 
Huge fissures, and yawning chasms, 
filled with verdure, branch off on 
each side, and are found as impracti- 
cable as the main ravine. Still a few 
Bedawin pioneers, with a bakhshieh in 
prospect, would soon open a way until 


the cliffs themselves stopped them. 


The Acropolie—On the 1. of the 
entrance to this ravine is an isolated 
peak, supposed by Laborde to be the 
Acropolis of the ancient city. The 
site is commanding, and, being sepa- 
rated from the neighbouring hills by 
impassable gorges, it was doubtless 
deemed impregnable. Vestiges of 
foundations and buildings still exist 
on the summit, Along its base runs 
the wady by which travellers from the 
south generally enter the city. To 
the features and tombs of this wad 
I have already referred. One tom 
only is deserving of particular note.. 
It is on the side of the cliff nearly 
opposite the ruin called Kusr Far’én, 
It is unfinished, and we learn from it 


54 


the mode in which the architects of 
Petra wrought. They reversed the 
common process, commencing their 
work from the top. Here the capi- 
tals of the columns and architrave 
are finished; but all below is one 
solid block of natural rock. 


The Southern Acclivities.—To com- 
plete our circuit of this strange city 
we must ascend the steep acclivity 
which rises from the base of the 
Acropolis. Proceeding towards the 
S.E., we observe on the left a solitary 
column, the only remnant of a 
temple whose prostrate ruins lie in 
the dust around it. This column has 
received a name from the Arabs which 
travellers will do well noé to repeat 
or perpetuate in their writings. The 
cliff we now approach, and which 
shuts in the valley on the 8.E., is cut 
up into numerous peaks by clefts and 
ravines. In several of these are ex- 
cavated chambers, tombs, or temples, 
well worthy of a visit. High up 
in one gorge is a little platform 
formed by the erection of a strong 
wall between the cliffs, now nearly 
ruinous. Here on the left is a sin- 
gular facade, having four semi-co- 
lumns, : supporting a low pediment; 
between the columns are two windows, 
and three niches with the remains of 
statues. The principal chamber is 
40 ft. long by 30 ft. wide, and behind 
it is a smaller one with arched niches 
in the walls. Directly facing this 
structure we observe two or three ir- 
regular openings in front of a cliff ; 
entering by one of these, we sudden! 
find ourselves in a large and hand- 
gome hall, whose walls are adorned 
with 14 fluted semi-columns support- 
ing a rich entablalure. Between the 
columns are niches, with grooves over 
them, apparently for receiving orna- 
ments or inscriptions. This structure 
is remarkable as being an exact coun- 
terpart of all the other temples and 
tombs of Petra, being entirely plain 
outside and highly ornamented within. 


Farther up this gorge is another 
massive Ww of various - coloured 
stones. Near it an easy staircase, 


hewn in the rock, leads up to a Doric 


Route 3.—Petra—Ruins. 


Sect. I. 


tomb, from which we gain the sum- 
mit of the hill. Here are several deep 
reservoirs hewn in the rock for the 
collection of rain-water; one of them 
is 80 ft. long, by 20 ft. wide and 20 ft. 
deep; another, seemingly intended 
as a kind of open temple, has two 
rows of niches in its walls. Not far 
from this, on the brow of another ra- 
vine, is a spiral staircase hewn in the 
rock. In fact, this whole hill is filled 
with curious and interesting excava- 
tions, both on the eastern and western 
sides. On the summit are the foun- 
dations of a large building, apparently 
a. fortress; and below it is a p id 
of rock, from around which stones 
were taken for building; by this pyra- 
mid a long staircase descends to the 
front of the theatre. 


The Ruins.of the City.— Having 
completed our circuit of the cliffs and 
acclivities which encompass as a wall 
the valley of Petra, we are prepared 
to examine such remains of domestic 
or public architecture as still exist. 
A single glance at the heaps of hewn 
stones, broken columns, and mounds 
of rubbish, that cover the whole 
valley, is sufficient to show that every 
available spot was once occupied by 
buildings ; but all are now prostrate, 
save one or two fragments on the 
banks of the rivulet. Entering the 
valley once more through the ravine 
from the theatre, we observe that the 
bed of the stream is skirted by strips 
of level land; N. and 8. of which the 
ground rises into low irregular mounds; 
while behind these, a quarter of a 
mnile from the brook in both directions, 
is a steeper and longer ascent to 
higher plains, It is this lower tract, 
about half a mile square, which 
formed the site of the ancient city. 

The first building we come to, in 
proceeding slong the 1. bank of the 
stream, is a temple whose fallen 
columns and prostrate walls now strew 
the level ground, lying as they fell. 
“Here are columns whose different 
component parts, from the base to the 
capital, follow each other on the ground, 
and near the latter are the entabla- 
tures which it sustained. Here also 


SINAI. 


are seen the foundations uncovered, 
which seem waiting for the first layer 
of stones. It looks like a vast pile 
asleep ready to get up.” Nearly op- 
posite this ruin a wady comes in from 
the N., which was once spanned by a 
bridge now a heap of ruins. Farther 
W. the banks of the stream are con- 
fined by strong walls, and appear to 
have been formerly connected by a 
continuous arch, so as to afford ad- 
ditional building-ground. We now 
observe distinct traces of a paved 
road leading through the tottering 
fragments of a triumphal arch, whose 
florid ornaments remind one of those 
of the great arch in Palmyra, to the 
principal ruin of Petra, Kuer Far'6n, 
“Pharaoh’s Palace.” The style of 
this structure shows a corrupt taste, 
and its execution unskilful workmen. 
The interior was covered with cement 
and overladen with ornament. The 
walls are still in good preservation, 
but the portico on the ¥ is nearly 
gone. 

And this is all that remains of the 
city of Petra, the rest is confused 
heaps of rubbish. It is strange that 
the most enduring, the most beautiful 
remnants of this great city are its 
“Tombs.” But many of the rock- 
hewn tombs have likewise disap- 

The close observer will see 

ow time has eaten away, and is still 
eating away, the very cliffs themselves. 
Fragments of stucco ornament, shal- 
low recesses, and little niches, are 
now seen on the face of many a rock, 
which were evidently at one time 
within excavations, The rock is very 
- goft, so much so that in many a place 
a finger will bring down whole hand- 
fuls of sand. What effect, therefore, 
must .the storms of long centuries 
have had upon it! While gazing upon 
the wilderness of ruins, and the de- 
vastation time has made on monu- 
ments that might well be deemed im- 
mortal, who can fail to recall the words 
of Scripture; and who can hesitate 
to bear testimony to their truth ?— 
“Thorns shall come up in her pa- 
laces, nettles and brambles in the for- 
tresses thereof.... When the whole 
earth rejoiceth I will make thee deso- 


Route 3.—Petra— Rock Structures. 


55 


late Thou shalt be desolate, O 
Mount Seir, and all Idumea, even all 
of it..... Thus saith the Lord of 
Hosts, They shall build and I will 
throw down Thy terribleness 
hath deceived thee, and the pride of 
thine heart, O thou that dwellest in 
the clefts of the rock, that holdest the 
height of the hill; though thou 
shouldst make thy nest as high as the 
eagle, I will bring thee down from 
thence, saith the Lord. Also, Edom 
shall be a desolation; every one that 
goeth by it shall be astonished.” (Isai. 
xxxiv. 13; Ezek. xxxv. 14; Mal. i. 
4; Jer. xlix. 16, 17.) 


Original object of the Rock Structures 
of Petra.—There is a question which 
will naturally force itself on the mind 
of every thoughtful traveller who ex- 
amines Petra. .“ These countless ex- 
cavations which one meets with on 
every cliff, in every ravine, in the 
most retired recesses of the mountain 
glens, on the most prominent points 
round a crowded city—are these all 
tombs?” If so, then the houses of 
the dead far outnumbered those of the 
living. There can be no doubt that 
many of them were tombs, or at least 
became so—those for instance in the 
upper part of Wady Masa beyond the 
Sik, and in the ravine around the 
theatre. There can be little doubt, 
too, that some of them were temples 
—such as the Khuzneh, the Deir, and 
one or two of the fine monuments in 
the eastern cliff. But there can just 
be as little doubt that very many of 
the excavations were originally in- 
tended for ordinary dwellings. In 
the ravines and cliffs around the 
Acropolis, and in the N.E. and 8.E. 
angles of the valley, are many cham- 
bers that in no way resemble tombs, 
but are just such as a primitive people 
would construct for habitations. The 
nature of the rock, and the form of 
the cliffs, made excavation an easier 
work than erection; besides the ad- 
ditional security, comfort, and per- 
manence of such abodes. Most of 
these chambers have closets and re- 
ceases suitable for family uses, and 
many of them have windows in front, 


56 


certainly superfluous in a tomb. May 
it not be that, when “architecture ” 
became fashionable among the inha- 
bitants of Mount Seir, these caves were 
abandoned by their owners for ordi- 
nary houses, and then afterwards al- 
tered within and ornamented without, 
so as to serve for mausoleums and 
family tombs? This theory would 
account alike for their vast numbers, 
and for the great contrast between 
the exterior and interior of many of 
them. It is in some measure corrobo- 
rated, too, by history. The aborigines 
of this whole region were called Horim, 
that is “dwellers in caves.” They 
were expelled by the descendants of 
Esau; but in many parts of Scripture 
such expressions are used in speaking 
of Edom as would lead us to conclude 
that Esau’s posterity had not merely 
occupied the country, but also the 
dwellings, of their predecessors. Jere- 
miah and Obadiah both speak of 
them as dwelling in the clefts of the 
rocks, and making their habitations 
high in the cliffs, like the eyries of 
the eagles. (Jer. xlix. 16; Obad. 3, 
4.) And Jerome, in his commentary 
on the latter prophet, observes that 
the whole of Edom, from Eleuthero- 
polis to Petra and Aila, was filled 
with caves used as dwellings. It 
would be most interesting for some 
competent antiquarian to devote a few 
months to a minute and full examina- 
tion of the monuments of Petra, and 
to a comparison of the different styles, 
with a view both to determine their 
relative age and their original object. 
There can be little donbt that many 
important facts would thus be ascer- 
tained, illustrative of the antiquities, 
the history, and the customs of the 
former occupants of this singular city. 
It might perhaps be found that the 
commercial Nabatheans were the first 
who introduced buildings into Petra, 
and the first also who began to 
ornament the exteriors of the excava- 
tions. It must at once strike every 
visitor, that, with one or two excep- 
tions, there is no characteristic differ- 
ence in the internal arrangement of 
these chambers; some are smaller, 


some larger; but all are simple and ! 


Route 3.—Petra— Excursions 


Sect. I: 


uniform in plan, and entirely without 
ornament. The facades alone appear 
to be of different ages, and they in- 
dicate the progress of architecture 
from an early and simple to a later 
and more ornate style. They are 
also in many instances wholly dispro- 
portioned to the interior. Would not 
these things seem to favour the sup- 
position t the excavations them- 
selves are generally of remote anti- 

uity, and probably the work of the 

orim and their successors, the Edom- 
ites; while the exterior ornaments, 
with the buildings of the city, were 
added by a distinct race, who, from 
their intercourse with more polished 
nations, were led to renounce the 
simple habits of their predecessors ? 
At any rate, there can be little room 
for doubt that the simple type of the 
rock-chamber was borrowed by the 
Nabeatheans from a much older people, 
and from specimens existing in this 
valley. 


Excursion TO Mount Hor, 

Few will wish to leave the rock-city 
of Edom without making a pilgrimage 
to the time-honoured tomb of the great 
Hebrew High-priest. It may involve 
the payment of a few extra piastres ; 
but what matter ?—none come to the 
desert to study economy. Better pay 
with a grace—under protest if 
ou will, though the Bedawy cares 
ittle for that—than leave the place 
for ever, disappointed and indignant. 
The very difficulties that deterred 
great men serve only to stimulate 
curiosity; and to make us, puny fol- 
lowers, in this respect at least greater 
than they. Poor Burckhardt had to 
rest contented with sacrificing his kid 
in sight of the tomb; and Robinson 
was driven back by main force by the 
stern old “Father of Olives.” C) 
have to steal a march on the 
wily ians of Petra by making 
a hurried visit to the place before 
entering the city: this can easily be 
done; but on the whole it is perhaps 
more satisfactory to select a couple of 


SINAL 


sturdy guides, and to make the excur- 
sion in all form. 

Ascending the ravine from the south- 
eastern angle of the valley, we reach 
in about half an hour the plain called 
Sutah Harfn, which skirts the base 
of Mount Hor. Crossing this towards 
the §.E. side of the peak, we find a 
path winding up to the summit. The 
ascent from the plain must be made 
on foot, and occupies about an hour. 
It is neither difficult nor dangerous, if 
the proper track be followed, for in 
the steeper portions rude steps aid 
the pilgrim. Not far from the summit 
is a little platform, from which the 
central and culminating peak rises up 
in broken masses, giving a i 
character to the mountain, like 


‘Embattled towers raised by Nature's hands.” 


A deep cleft in the mass of rock leads 
to the top. A little way up are the 
openings to subterraneous vaults with 
rounded arches, nearly similar to those 
in front of the tomb in the eastern 
cliff of Petra. From hence a deeply 
and carefully cut staircase leads to the 
narrow platform on which the tomb 
stands, 


The Tomb itself, as it now stands, is 
comparatively modern ; but it is com- 
posed of the ruins of a more ancient 
and imposing structure. Some small 
columns are built up in the walls, and 
fragments of: marble and granite lie 
scattered around. The door is in the 
S.W. corner. An ordinary tomb, such 
as is met with in every part of the 
East—a patchwork of stone and 
marble—is the only thing in the 
interior. It is covered with a ragged 
pall, and garnished with the usual ac- 
companiments— ragged shawls, ostrich- 
eggs, and a few beads. Near the N.W. 
angle a staircase leads down to a dark 
vault, partly hewn in the rock, partly 
masonry. Visitors desirous of ex- 

loring this grotto would do well to 

ve lights in readiness. The real 
Tomb of the High-priest is here shown 
at the far end of the vault. It was 
formerly guarded by an iron grating ; 
but this, like everything else around, 
is now useless so far as its original 


Route 3.—Mount Hor. 


57 


purpose is concerned. The date of 
the building is at least prior to the 
time of the Crusades, for the author 
of the ‘Gesta Francorum’ mentions 
that in the time of Baldwin (4.p. 1100) 
an expedition was made in vallem 
Moysi, “to Wady Mfsa;” and that 
there, on the summit of a mountain, 
was an oratory. Fulcher of Chartres, 
who also gives an account of the ex- 
pedition, says he was there and saw 
the chapel. It is highly probable that 
the spot was held sacred by the 
Christians before the Mohammedan 
conquest. 

The view from the summit is awfully 

d. The eye first dives down the 
jegged slopes to the gloomy ravines 
that divide the confused mass of 
mountains. Far away to the N. and 
S. stretches a “howling wilderness ” 
of ragged summits, of every shape and 
form, like the ruins of a mountain 
chain. Along its western side runs 
the ’Arabah ; beyond it are the bare 
white ridges and wide expanse of the 
desert of Tth; while farther yet, blue- 
tinted and melting into the sky on the 
horizon, are the hills of Palestine. 
Towards the E. is the great limestone 
ridge of Edom, with smooth rounded 
summits and sloping sides. Petra is 
hid in its rocky nest ; but the graceful 
outline of the Deir is distinctly seen 
on the N.E., like a bas-relief on the 
side of the cliff. 

There is the last earthly scene the 
great Hebrew High-priest gazed on. 
As we stand over his tomb, fancy 
pictures the aged Aaron toiling up 
the mountain-side, clothed in his 
robes of office, accompanied by his 
brother and his son. Having reached 
the destined spot, he is disrobed by 
Moses, and sees his son Eleazer in- 
vested with the sacred garments, and 
appointed priest in his stead. He 
then takes a last look at the tents of 
his people; he glances at plain and 
mountain, looking mo y towards 
those far-distant blue hills which his 
feet were not permitted to tread; he 
bids a last farewell to brother and son, 
and dies. Few spots in Bible lands 
are so thrillingly interesting as this, 
because few are so precisely identified. 

D 


58 


The conspicuous mountain—emphatic- 
ally the Hor (“ Mountain”) —on the 
borders of Edom (Num. xx. 23); the 
narrow summit; the ancient and un- 
broken tradition—all tend to remove 
doubt, and establish the fact that here 
indeed Aaron died. 


ROUTE 4. 


PETRA TO HEBRON, BY KERAK AND 
THE DEAD SEA. 


H. MM. 
Petra to M’afn.. .. .. « 5 O 
Shobek (Mount Royal) .. .. 7 9 
Ghiriindel (Arindela) .. .. 6 0 
Buseireh (Bozrah) .. .. .. 38 0 
Kerak (Kir-Moab) .. .. .. 12 0 
Ruins of Zoar .. .. .- «.. £30 
Salt-hills of Usdum.. .. .. 5 0 
M’ain (Maon) .. .. .. «. 14 50 
Kurmul (Carmel) .. e 20 
El-Khulil (HEsRon) . 8 0 


Total -. 60 40 


Enterprising travellers will pro- 
bably wish to avoid the beaten track, 
fad take a new route hy Palestine. 

is easy enoug ey can per- 
suade their Arab escort to go with 
them ; for the desert is wide, and ob- 
jects of interest are not wanting. I 
shall now sketch in outline a route 
which combines some geographical 
and antiquarian research with a 
dash of adventure; and affords at the 
same time a fair opportunity of making 
the acquaintance of some other tribes 
of Bedawin. 

A short march of some 5 hrs. over 
the eastern mountain ridges of Edom, 
and then down the easy slope to the 

eat Arabian desert, brings us to 

‘afin, a village of about 1000 Inhab. ; 
and one of the chief stations on the 
Syrian Haéj road. There are here 
seven different clans, all of Syrian 


Route 4.—Petra to Hebron. 


Sect. I. 


origin, combined together to trade with 
the Bedawin and pilgrims. There is 
little of antiquarian interest save a 
half-rnuined castle of the age of the 
Khalifs; but this is doubtless the seat 
of the Maonites, a tribe which, in con- 
nexion with the Amalekites, 

with Irarael (Jud. x. 12). 

Leaving this desert village, we turn 
N.W., enter again the mountains of 
Edom, and after 7 hrs. weary travel 
reach the large and strong castle of 
Shobek, probably the Mons Regalis of 
the crusaders. It is about 6 hrs. dis- 
tant from Petra. The castle stands 
on the top of a hill, and is still in 
tolerable preservation. A massive 
iron door admits to the interior, where 
some 400 Arabs now find a safe re- 
treat. There are here the ruins of an 
old church, and a Latin inscription 
over the great door, of the era of the 
Frank kings of Jerusalem. The view 
from the walls is very extensive, em- 
bracing the whole mountain region 
from the ’Arabah to the desert. 

Proceeding northward, on ascending 
from the valley in which the hill of 
Shobek stands, we strike a fine Roman 
road, the pavement of which is in 
many places entire, and some of the 
milestones are standing. Along this 
we now advance, enjoying a wide 
view over the desert plain to the rt. 
In it the Haj route is visible—a long 
white line extending N. and S. far as 
the eye can see. We are now in the 
track of Irby and Mangles; along it 
they went southward on their perilous 
journey to Petra. Burckhardt’s route 
was among the mountains farther west- 
ward. Poor Burckhardt was indeed 
sorely pressed in this inhospitable re- 
gio e had to part with his horse at 

haneh, some miles N., for four goats 
and a few measures of wheat — the 
latter to serve as food during his 
journey to Egpyt. The guide he 
e ed was, like most of the Bedawin, 
a sad knave; and the camel he pro- 
mised to procure for the traveller was 
not forthcoming. They thus set out 
on foot, Burckhardt driving his goats, 
and the Bedawy accompanied by his 
whole family. The guide stole the 
wheat, and tried to appropriate the 


SINAl. 


goata too, but Burckhardt successfully 
defended these. On reaching Shobe 

he had to lay in a fresh stock of pro- 
visions ; and for this he bartered his 
shirt, the half of his turban, and his 
cap! Still following the line of the 
Roman road, we reach Ghiiriindel in 
6 hrs. The ruins are pretty extensive, 
covering the side of a hill. In the 
centre are two lines of columns, a few 
of which are still standing. The 
place is now completely deserted ; but 
in the early centuries of our era, ere 


Mohamm ism had yet depopulated 
the land, it was a rous city, 
and the see of a bishop. Its name 


Arindela is found in the ancient 
* Notitia.’ 

At 3 brs. N. by W. of Ghirindel is 
the small village of Buseireh (“ Little 
Busrah”), which, probaby, occupies 
the site of Bozrah, the ancient capital 
of Edom. e name calls to mind 
the beautiful passage in Isaiah (lxiii. 
1): “Who is this that cometh from 

dom, with dyed garments from 
Bozrah? This that is glorious in his 
apparel, travelling in the greatness of 
his strength?” No remains of anti- 
quity are now visible. The village is 
poor, consisting of about 50 wretched 
huts, and having on the top of the 
hill on which it stands a strong fort, 
where the inhabitants take refuge in 
times of danger. The Roman road 
runs eon 1 m. on the E. side of it. 

eh, one of the largest villages 
in this region, is 2? hrs. N. of the 
latter. It contains, according to Burck- 
hardt, about 600 houses ; and its sheikh 
is the nominal chief of the whole dis- 
trict of Jebel, comprising the northern 
section of Edom. It stands on the 
declivity of. a mountain, and has 
numerous fountains, whose waters 
unite below in a valley, and flow into 
the ’Arabah through Wady Tufileh. 
This is doubtless the site of Tophel of 
Deut. i. 1; and this identification in 
@ great measure explains one of the 
most difficult geographical questions 
in the Old Testament: “These be the 
words which Moses spake unto all 
Israel on this side Jordan, in the 
wilderness, in the plain over against 
the Red Sea, between Paran and 


Route 4.—Busetreh.— Kerak. 


59 


Tophel, and Laban, and Hazeroth, 
and Dizahab.” The plain here men- 
tioned is in Hebrew Arabah, and cor- 
responds in reality, as well as in name, 
with the great valley of ’Arabah. 
Therefore, when the Israclities were 
in the plains of Moab opposite Jericho, 
they are spoken of as being in the 
Arabah “over against the Red Sea,” 
that is, in the opposite to the Red 
Sea, or tow: the other end of the 
plain from that sea; and this “Arabah ” 
18 properly described as lying between 
Paran on the one side (westward as 
we know) and Tophel on the other 
(eastward as we now also see). 


Kerak, Krr-Moas (Pop. 8000). This 
ancient site is the next stage of im- 
portance, 12 hrs. from Tufileh. On 
our way to it we pass through the 
small villages of Aimeh 4 hr.), 
Khanzireh (54 hrs.), ’Orak (1 hr.) 
and Ketherabba (1h.4min.). Kerak 
is a site of great antiquity, and of no 
little historical importance; but its 
present inhabitants are as fanatical, as 
covetous, and as reckless a set of vaga- 
bonds as ever polluted a country. 
Burckhardt’s mistortunes began here, 
for he was shamefully plundered by 
its sheikh. De Saulcy and his com- 
panions, with all their French pom 
and braggadocio, were pretty we 
plucked by the people, and had at last 
to condescend to borrow their ransom 
from a Jerusalem butcher! But the 
personal insults and indignities they 
were compelled to submit to were 
more galling to the amour propre of 
subjects of la grande nation than all 
their pecuniary losses. M. de Saulcy 
himself was publicly spat upon; and 
one of his bosom friends was kicked 
in the castle. De Saulcy owed his 
treatment to his own boasting, followed 
up as it was by the veriest  poltroone ; 
and there are few Englishmen who 
will read that portion of his travels 
but will admit that he was “rightly 
served.” In noble contrast to the 
French “farce ” was the spirited con- 
duct of Lieut. Lynch, of the United 
States Expedition, who with his brave 
little band defied the bloodthirsty 
Muslems of Kerak ; and when threat- 


60 


ened by the sheikh actually took him 
prisoner at the gate of his stronghold, 
and conveyed him as a hostage to the 


shore of the Dead Sea ! 
erak stands on the top of a hill, 

/ some 3000 ft. above the Dead Sea. 
The hill is encompassed by deep, 
narrow ravines, beyond which rise 
loftier mountains, shutting it in on all 
sides except the W., where a sublime 
glen descends to the shore of the 
Dead Sea. The city was at one time 
strongly fortified ; and is still enclosed 
by a half-ruinous wall, flanked by 
seven heavy towers. Originally there 
were but two entrances, one on the 
N. and the other on the 8. side; and 
both tunnelled through the solid rock 
for a distance of nearly 100 ft. On 
the western side stands the Citadel, a 
huge and massive building, separated 
from the town by a deep moat hewn 
in the rock. It appears to be of the 
age of the crusades Within it is a 
church fast falling to ruin, on whose 
walls are still some traces of rude 
frescoes. There are several fragments 
of red and gray granite columns scat- 
tered over the citadel and town. 

Kerak is the Kir-Moab of Scrip- 
ture, remarkable as the only city left 
standing in the whole land of Moab, 
when invaded by Joram king of Israel. 
It was then saved by a cruel and tragic 
act. The king of Moab, seeing him- 
self sorely pressed by the beleaguering 
army, made a desperate effort to b 
through the lines into Edom, but in 
vain. He then took his oldest son, 
the heir of his throne, and offered him 
in sacrifice to the gods on the city 
wall. The fury of his followers was 
raised by this fearful act to such a 
pitch that they compelled the Israelites 
to abandon the siege (2 Kings iii.). 
Kir is mentioned by Isaiah (xv. 1; 
xvi. 7, 11). In the Chaldee version 
of this prophet it is already called 
by the name it still retains—Keraka. 
In the early centuries of our era it 
became a bishopric in the province of 
Palestina Tertia. The Orusaders 
captured it, repaired or rebuilt the 
tortifications, and, mi i it for 
Petra, established, in a.p. 1167, a 
Latin bishopric of that name; and 


Route 4.—Kerak.—Zoar. 


Sect. J. 


the name and title remain in the 
Greek Church to the present time, 
About one-third of the inhabitants are 
Christians of the Greek rite. 

The people of Kerak are almost 
entirely independent of the Turkish 
government, bearing towards it some- 
thing of the same relation as a tribe 
of Bedawin. Their strong position, 
numbers, and valour make them the 
actual rulers of a large district. The 
Bedawin both fear and r ¢ them. 
Their hospitality is proverbial; and 
though the town is crowded with 
guests every evening, it is said that: 
when 2 stranger enters the gate “ they 
almost come to blows with one another 
in their eagerness to have him for 
their guest.” These qualities, pro- 
bably, have gained for them a privilege 
denied to every other felléh in Syria 
—that of intermarrying with the 
proud Bedawin. The bride is always 

ought here, and consequently not 
often treated with much kindness or 
affection. If she falls sick, and is 
unable to manage her husband's house- 
hold, he sends her back to her father 
with the characteristic message—* I 
bought a healthy wife of you, and it is 
not just that I should be at the trouble 
and expense of curing her.’’ This is 
the rule with both Christians and 
Muslems. The husband does not even 
provide dress for his wife. She is 
obliged to apply to her own family for 
the means of appearing decently in 
pablic, or else to rob her husband of 

is wheat and barley. Burckhardt 
relates some other curious facts re- 


garding conjugal etiquette at Kerak. 


Zoar.— A. wild, ravine leads 
down, as was stated above, from Kerak 
to the narrow plain at the S.E. angle 
of the Dead Sea. At its mouth Se hrs. 
from Kerak) are some mounds of rub- 
bish, with many large stones round 
them: these are the ruins of Zoar, 
“the little City,” which Lot fled to 
from Sodom, and which was saved for 
his sake. It is mentioned by Isaiah 
(xv. 5) and Jeremiah (xlviil. 34), as 


within the territory of Moab. Under 


the Romans it became a flourishing 
town; and was afterwards an episco- 


Srivale 


pal see. It was inhabited so late as 
the 14th centy. It was in the moun- 
tains that shut in the valley of Kerak 
that Lot finally took refuge with his 
daughters, and here, consequently, was 
the cradle of the Ammonites and Mo- 
abites. (Gen. xix. 

We now turn southward along the 
fertile plain that here skirts the Dead 
Sea, and, sweeping round its southern 
end, through thickets of tamarisk, 
dwarf palms, and reeds, we reach, in 
some 5 hrs., the base of Jebel Usdum, 
at the 8.W. angle of the Dead Sea. A 
very remarkable geological feature 
here arrests the attention. On the 
left, not far from the beach, rises a 
narrow, rugged ridge of hills, extend- 
ing N.W. about5m. On approaching 
it we find that it is composed of one 
vast mass of mineral salt. blocks 
have fallen down from the hill-sides, 
and are strewn along the shore. This 
strange ridge may well account for the 
unusual saltness of the Dead Sea, into 
which the winter torrents and summer 
streamlets carry large quantities of the 
mineral. The position of this moun- 
tain serves to fix the position of the 
“Valley of Salt,” where the Israel- 
ites under David and Amaziah con- 
quered the Edomites (2 Sam. viii. 13 ; 
2 Kings xiv. 7; 1 Chron. xviii. 12). 
This “ Valley of Salt” was unquestion- 
ably the upper part of the ‘Arabah. 
The range now gets the name of 
Khashm Usdum, or Jebel Usdum, pro- 
bably from the ancient Sodom, which 
lay to the N. at no great distance. 

Passing along the base of this ridge, 
having the leaden waters of the Dead 
Sea on our rt., we reach in 1 h. 40 min. 
the mouth of Wady Zuweirah, a name 
not to be confounded with Zoar, from 
which it is radically different. U: 
this we turn from the level strand ; an 
in lh. 10 min. pass a small Saracenic 
fortress situated on the summit of a 
chalk cliff. In 4 h. more we leave 
the wady, and themtravel for 44 hrs. 
N.W., ough a dreary wilderness, 
destitute of features as of vegetation. 
Here we reach a steep acclivity, like 
the wall of a huge terrace, some 100 
ft. high. Clambering up the difficult 
and tortuous path, we find on the sum- 


Route 4.—Maon.— Carmel. 


61 


mit a few scattered traces of former 
habitations, called Zuweiret el-Féka, 
“Upper Zuweirah.” We are now in 
the “ hill country of Judma.”’ 

After a march of 3 h. a conical hill 
is seen on the left, about 2 m. distant, 
called Tell Arad. It marks the site 
of the ancient city of Arad, whose in- 
habitants drove back the Israelites 
when they attempted to enter Canaan 


from Kadesh. The place was after- 
wards totally destroyed by Joshua. 
(Num. xxi. 1, 3.) 4 hrs. more 


is Tell Ma‘in; its summit crowned 
with ruins, and its sides perforated 
with caves. It deserves a visit, as well 
from the wide and interesting view it 
commands, as from its historic associa- 
tions; for it was the native place of 
the wealthy and churlish Nabal. 
(1 Sam. xxv, 2.) 


Maon.—On reaching the summit of 
the conical hill we look abroad over a 
far-stretching orama, dotted here 
and there with grey ruins, each of 
which, though now deserted and soli- 
tary, has its name and its story, for we 
are now on “holy ground.” There on 
the east, declining towards the Dead 
Sea, is the desert of Judah, or “ Wilder- 
ness of Engedi;” bare and blasted as 
it seems to have been of old, when 
David and his men took refuge among 
the “rocks of the wild ts." 
(1 Sam. xxiv. 2.) On the N. about 1 
m. distant are the ruins of Carmel 
(now Kurmul), where Nabal had his 
sheep-shearing. (1 Sam. xxv.) Far 
ther away is the little tell Ziph, enu- 
merated by Joshua among the towns 
of Judah (xv. 55). And beyond it, in 
the midst of the rich valley of Eehcol, 
the eye rests on the towers and mina- 
rets of Hebron. On the W. is a wide 
rolling plain, in which may be taken 
in at one glance the sites of the an- 
cient towns of Juttah (Yitta), Anab 
CAnab), Eshtemoa (Bema'a), Socoh 
(Shuweikeh), and Jattr (‘Attir); 
whose names, it will be observed, have 
been but little changed by the lapse 
of long centuries, (Joshua xv. 48-55.) 


Carmel.—In 20 min. more we reach 
Kurmul,the ancient Carmel. (Josh. xv. 


62 


55; 1 Sam. xv. 12.) I need scarcely 
say that this is quite different from the 
Mount Carmel of Elijah and Elisha. 
Tho ruins are extensive, and some of 
them of high antiquity. They lie 
plong the sides of a little valley; the 
head of which forms a semicircle, shut 
in by rocks. In the centre is a large 
reservoir well supplied by a fountain. 
The principal ruins are on the level 
area to the W., and consist of fragments 
of walls, massive foundations, and 
heaps of hewn stones. The castle is 
a curious structure ; it occupies a little 
eminence in the centre of the town ; 
its form is , 62 ft. by 40, 
and 30 high. “The external wall is 
evidently ancient; and has on the 
northern and western sides a sloping 
bulwark, like the citadel in Jerusalem. 
The stones are bevelled; and though 
not so large as those of the tower of 
Hippicus, yet the architecture is of the 
same kind; leaving little room for 
doubt that it is the work of Herod, or 
of the Romans.” The interior has 
been remodelled at a much later age, 
and now exhibits the pointed arch and 
peculiar maso of the Saracens. 
ear it are foundations of a massive 
round tower, and there appears to have 
been a subterranean communication 
between the two. Among and around 
the ruins are the remains of several 
churches, showing that the city had at 
one time a large Christian Population. 
One of these, about + m. 8. of the 
castle, measures 156 ft. in length, by 
about 50 in breadth. On the E. was 
a chapel with a portico of columns; 
while attached to it on the W. was a 
building, probably the episcopal 
residence. — 

Carmel was the scene of the romantic 
story of David, Nabal, and Abigail. 
Here Nabal held his annual sheep- 
shearing; and David, who had associ- 
ated with and protected the shepherds 
of the rich man, thought himself enti- 
tled to a share in the festival, and sent 
® message to that effect. Were a simi- 
lar festival held by some extensive 
proprietor near the same spot now, 
there is little doubt but that some 
neighbouring Arab sheikh would put 
in a word as David did. The insult- 


- Route 5.— Petra to Hebron. 


Sect. I. 


ing answer of the great man; the 
humble apology of the fair Abigail ; 
the tragic and yet romantic conclusion, 
are too well known to require recital, 
Few who visit Carmel will fail to call 
to mind a story familiar even from 
boyhood. (1 Sam. xxv.) 

nlh. 25 min. more we reach the 
western base of the little tell Zif, a few 
minutes E. of which lie the prostrate 
ruins of Ziph, a town which has gained 
a name in sacred history from the 
treachery (or loyalty) of its people, 
who on two occasions sought to betra 
the Persecuted David into the han 
of Saul. (1 Sam. xxiii. 19; xxvi. 1. 
In 1 h. 85 min. after leaving Zip 
we enter “ Kirjath-Arba, which is 

Hesxon.” (See Rte. 7.) 


ROUTE 5. 
PETRA TO HEBRON, BY KADESH AND 
BEERSHEBA, 
H. M. 
Petra to Ain el-Weibeh (Ka- 
desh) .. .. « « o 15 80 
Suf&h (Zephath) .. .- 9 0 
Baran (Aroer) oe we) 8 80 
Bir es-Seba’ (Beersheba) .. 5 0 
Dhoherfyeh .. .. .. «2 7 0 
Hebron... .. « « « 5 O 
Total .. 50 0 


Travellers usually leave Petra b 
the same ravine on the 8. throug’ 
which they enter it. Dr. Robinson 
was driven out by the difficult track 
at the N.E. corner, and crossing the 
plateau called Suttth Beida, “ White 

erraces,” he dived down into the 
"Arabsh, through the wild pasa of 
Nemela. We shall take the ordinary 
path. 

Leaving Wady Misa where we en- 


SINAI. 


tered it, we ascend again to the Sutah 
H&rfn, and skirt the southern base o 
Mount Hor. In 2) h we reach the 
summit of the pass. Turning now to 
the N.W., and lea ing the road by 
which we approached from the S., we 
cross a high plain, and then, passing 
down through a succession of wild ra- 
vines for some 6 hrs., we emerge from 
the mountains of Edom on the t 
valley of the ‘Arabah. It is here 
about 12 m. wide, bleak and barren 
as ever, and shut in on each side by 
naked mountain ranges. Crossing the 
plain diagonally, we descend into the 
shallow Wady Jeib, the drain of the 
"Arabah, and see on its western bank, 
where the ground begins to rise to- 
wards the bases of low limestone hills, 
a thicket of reeds and rank grass, in- 
terspersed with a few palms. This is 
‘Ain el-Weibeh, the most important 
fountain in the whole region. It is 7 
hrs. from the mouth of Wady el-Milh, 
“The Salt Valley,” by which we en- 
tered the ’Arabah. Here again we 
join the route of Dr. Robinson, who 
reached this fountain in 13 h. 35 min. 
from Petra. 


Kadesh-barnea.—I agree with Dr. 
Robinson in fixing the site of Kadesh 
at or near this fountain; and as it was 
one of the most important points in 
the journeyings of the Israelites, I 
shall now sketch the few facts known 
of its history. Four chiefs from Meso- 
potamia and Eastern Arabia made an 
expedition nearly 4000 yrs. ago to the 
borders of Syria. It was in fact a 
ghiizu of Arab sheikhs on a large 
scale; the principal object being to 
make reprisals on a few towns that 
had refused the ordinary ghufr to the 
wandering tribes of the great desert. 
The marauders swept down the east- 
ern side of the Jordan, smiting in their 
way the Rephaim, the Zuzim, the 
Horites in Mount Seir, and then pene- 
trating to Paran. eeling ro 
they came “to Hn Mtahpat (the Foun- 
tain of Mishpat), which is Kadesh,” 
and, having plundered the Amalekites, 
marched northwards upon Sodom and 
the “cities of the plain,’’ (Gen. xiv.) 
This gives some general idea of where 


Route 5.—Kadesh-barnea. 63 


Kadesh was situated; and proves also 


f | that it was a noted watering-place. 


The next mention of Kadesh is in 
the history of the journeyings of the 
Israelites. They left Sinai; encamped 
for a time at Hazeroth ; and then, pro- 
bably descending to the gut of 
*Akabah, marched northward up the 
"Arabah to Kadesh, “a city on the ut- 
termost border of Edom.” (Num. xx. 
16.) From hence the spies were sent 
to examine the “Land of Promise,” 
and to this place they returned with 
their misrepresentations. Here, in 
consequence, the people murmured, 
saying, “Wherefore hath the Lord 
brought us into this land, that our 
wives and our children should be a 
prey?” And here the Lord answered 
in judgment—“ Ags I live, all that were 
numbered of you from twenty years 
old and upwards, which have murmur- 
ed against me, shall not come into the 
land ; but you little ones which you 
said should be a prey, them will I 
bring in.” (Num. xiv.) Here too, 
having attempted to force their way 
contrary to the command of Moses, 
they were defeated by the Amalekites, 
and driven back in confusion to Mount 
Seir. (Deut. i. 44.) To this spot the 
Israelites again returned after an in- 
terval of 38 yrs., and then Miriam, the 
sister of Moses, died, and was buried 
by the fountain. (Num. xx.1.) The 
waters were now insufficient for the 
wants of the people, and Moses, at 
God's command, brought a miraculous 
supply from the rock. But the way 
in which Moses and Aaron executed 
this command was so displeasing to 
the Almighty, that He uttered the 
solemn sentence, “Ye shall not brin 
this congregation into the land whic 
I have given them.” (Num. xx.) 
From this place messengers were sent 
to the King of Edom demanding a 
passage through his territories to the 
eastern border of Palestine ; on receiv- 
ing a refusal, the Israelites again turn- 
ed southward down the ‘Arabah to- 
wards Elath. 

“These circumstances,” says Dr. 
Robinson, “all combine to fix the site 
of Kadesh in the neighbourhood of 
Ain el-Weibeh. There the Israelites 


64 


would have Mount Hor (where Aaron 
died) before them on the 8S.E. ; across 
the Arabah is the Wody el-Ghuweir, 

ording an easy and inviting passage 
through the land of Edom: in the 
N.W. rises the mountain by which 
they attempted to ascend to Palestine, 
with the pass still called Sufah (Zeph- 
ath) (Num, xxi. 1-3; comp. Jud. i. 
17) ; while farther north is the site of 
the ancient Arad, whose inhabitants 
drove them back.” A brackish foun- 
tain amid a dreary desert is thus in- 
vested with a sacred and historic inter- 
est such as few spots can boast of. 


A fatiguing and monotonous ride 
is now before us, over a bleak desert, 
intersected by numerous wadye, with 
names about as interesting as Homer's 
list of ships. Some wide views are 
obtained, as a bare crown of limestone 
is surmounted, of the ’Arabah on the 
right, quite up to the shores of the 
Dead Sea. In 9 hrs. we reach the pass 
of Suffh, leading up a steep, rugged 
ridge. Some traces of an ancient road 
are distinguishable ; but a modern one 
on an improved principle is greatly 
needed. There is an easier way a few 
miles to the left through a ravine 
called Yemen ; but the pass of Suffh 
is more direct and quite practicable. 
The name corresponds, as noted above, 
to the Hebrew Zephath, the place 
where the Israelites attempted to force 
their way into Palestine when they 
were driven back by the Cunaanites of 
Ar 


In 44 hrs. more we reach another 
pass called Nukb el-Muzeikah ; and 
soon afterwards a low hill comes in 
sight a short distance on the left; it 
is covered with ruins, but they are of 
little interest. Its name is Kurnub ; 
and it may probably be the site of the 
Thamara of Ptolemy, and the Tamar 
of the Bible-one of the southern 
border cities mentioned by Ezekiel 
(xlvii. 19). 

In 24 hrs. from Nukb el-Muzeikah 
the road to Hebron by Milh branches 
off to the right; we keep on, however, 
in the old course about N.N.W. (what- 
ever the escort may say), and in 14 h. 
reach some ruins with tanks for rain- 


Route 5,—Milh.— Beersheba. 


Sect, I. 


water, called Ar’érah, situated in a 
wady of the same name. This is 
doubtless the site of Aroer,a town of 
the south of Judah—one of those to 
which David sent part of the spoil he 
had taken from the Amalekites, in 
revenge for the plunder of Ziklag. 
(1 Sam. xxx. 26-28.) 

The country hitherto has been 
naked, monotonous, and desolate; 
chalky hills and gravelly vales suor 
ceeding each other until the eye is 
weary and the very heart sinks with 
the continuous desolation. Now, how- 
ever, soil begins to appear on the slopes 
and vegetation in the little valleys; 
while miniature fields of grain are met 
with at intervals. From Kadesh to 
this place we have been traversing the 
border land between Juda and the 
desert; but here we fairly enter the 
more favoured Palestine. A road from 
Ar’arah leads direct to Milh, 2 h., the 
Moladah of Scripture, a city of Simeon 
on the southern border towards Edom. 
(Josh. xv. 21, 26; xix. 2.) It is 
subsequently mentioned by Josephus 
as a castle of the Idumeans, under the 
Greek form Malatha ; and it was still 
an important place under the Romans, 
being the station of a cohort. The 
ruins cover a space about 4 m. square ; 
they consist of heaps of rough stones, 
and foundations, with a few columns. 
On some of the latter Mr. Stanley dis- 
covered Sinaitic inscriptions. 5 hrs. 
N. of Milh is the village of Semf’a, 
standing on a low hill, surrounded by 
a few olive-trees. It contains founda- 
tions of massive bevelled stones, evi- 
dently proving it to be the site of an 
ancient town, and doubtless the Eshte- 
moa of the old Testament. (Josh. xxi, 
14; xv. 50.) The most conspicuous 
ruin at present is that of a Saracenic 
tower in the centre of the village. 
From Semfi’a to Hebron is 4 hrs. 


As Beersheba, one of the most inter- 
esting places on the southern border of 
Palestine, is only some 10 m. distant 
from Ar’arah, it is better to make a 
détour of 5 hrs. to visit it, than to fol- 
low the direct road by Milh to Hebron. 
The way leads along Wady Ar’arah 
till it into Wady es-Sab’a in about 


SUNAIs 


3 hrs., and then follows that valley to 
the ruins of Bir es-Seb'a, “ Well of the 
Seven,” corresponding to the ancient 
_ Beersheba, “ Well of the Oath.” The 

first things that arrest attention at 
this interesting spot are two “ wells” of 
great antiquity, containing pure living 
water, phenomenon sufficiently 
rare in this thirsty region to be re- 
markable. One of these is 124 ft. in 
diameter, and 44 deep to the surface 
of the water. The other is smaller. 
They are on the N. bank of the wady. 
Along the rising ground above the 
wells are heaps of stones, traces of 
foundations, and fragments of pottery, 
extending over a space 4 m. long by ¢ 
broad. On the S. side of the valley is a 
stone wall several hundred feet long, 
apparently intended to support the 
bank. Such is all that now remains of 
Beersheba. 

Beersheba is one of the most ancient 
sites on record. It took its name from 
the well Abraham dug, and the oath 
by which he confirmed his treaty with 
Abimelech. (Gen. xxi. 81.) Here 
the patriarch planted a grove—a kind 
of natural temple in which to worship 
God ; here too he received the com- 
mand to sacrifice Isaac, and from 
hence he set out to execute that fear- 
fully solemn mission. (Gen. xxi., 
xxii.) Here Jacob obtained by fraud 
his brother's birthright and blessing 
(Gen. xxvii.) ; and here he offered up 
sacrifices on setting out with his family 
for Egypt. (Gen. xlvi.) Here Sam- 
uel made his sons Judges (1 Sam. 
viii.) ; and from hence Elijah, when he 
fled from Jezebel, wandered out into 
the southern desert, and lay down 
under a juniper-tree, where he was fed 
by bread from heaven. (1 Kings xix.) 
And here was the border of Palestine 
proper, whose extent was reckoned 
from Dan to Beersheba. This city was 
occupied by the Jews after the cap- 
tivity (Neh. xi. 27); but its name 
does not again appear in history till 
the 4th centy. of our era. It was then 
a Roman garrison; and become an 
episcopal see. 

We now turn northward toward the 
hills of Judea, over a rolling plain 
covered with a light soil, and affording 


Route 6.—Sinai to Hebron. 


65 


excellent pasturage. This was the 
favourite haunt of the patriarchs, and 
over it roamed their flocks and herds 
8000 yrs. ago; while they pitched 
their tents by the wells and fountains . 
van water just as the Arab tribes do 


still. 

7 hrs. from Beersheba is the village 
of Dhoheriyeh, situated on the summit 
of one of the southern hills in the 
Judah range. There is nothing here 
either to interest or detain the traveller, 
who will be anxious to hasten on to 
more favoured spots. Setting out 
again, and winding through pictur- 
esque vales, whose sides, with the inter- 
vening hills, are partially covered with 
shrubs and evergreen oaks, we reach 
Hebron in 5 hrs. 


ROUTE 6. 
SINAI TO HEBRON DIRECT. 

H. M. 

Convent to Jebel et-Tih, about 18 0 
Castle of Nukhl .. .. .s 30 0 
"Abdeh (Eboda) .. .. .. 45 6 
Ruhaibeh (Rehoboth) .. .. 5 0 
Khulasah (Elusa) -- « 2 50 
Bir es-Seb’a (Beersheba) 5 30 
Hebron .. .. « of eo 12 0 
Total e@e ee 117 20 


This route presents nothing of in- 
terest sufficient to repay the fatigue 
and monotony of the “great and 
terrible wilderness’’ of Tih. Such as 
wish to visit Sinai only had better 
return thence to Cairo, varying their 
route through the magnificent scenery 
of the peninsula; and from Cairo three 
days will now bring them, vid Alexan- 
dria, to Yafa. I shall, however, briefly 
indicate the distances and the points 
worthy of special note on the desert 
route. 


66 


Descending Wady esh-Sheikh for 
some 6 hrs., we leave it and the 
Sinai group of mountains together, 
by & narrow ravine leading into the 
southern section of Debbet er-Ramleh. 
Crossing this plain in a N.W. direction, 
we reach in two days from the convent 
the pass of Mureikhy in Jebel et-Tih. 

the pass, we have before us 
the great desert of Tih, ‘“ Wandering.” 
The rock of this desert is cretaceous, 
filled with fossils of various kinds. 


Nukhl, 30 hrs. march from the Pass 
of Mureikhy, is a castle and principal 
station on the Egyptian j - road, 
half-way between Suez and ‘Akabah. 
It is built on a rising ground amid a 
dreary waste. The bare embattled 
walls enclose a court in which are 
some deep wells. Here the territory 
of the Tiyaéhah Arabs commences; and 
the Tawarah cannot legally take tra- 
vellers farther north. Should any 
of the former be found in the castle, 
it will be better to come to an under- 
standing with them; but if not, the 
traveller may proceed till he meets 
them. 


El-’ Abdeh, 45 hrs, march, is the next 
station. Here at the junction of 
two wadys, Birein and Seram, are 
low stone walls apparently intended 
to regulate the irrigation of some 
fields formerly under cultivation. A 
little to the N., in the bank of the 
valley, is a large artificial cavern, 
probably a quarry. On a rising ground 


near it are ruins of some extent, con-! 


Route 6.—Sinat to Hebron. 


Sect. I. 


sisting of the heavy foundations of an 
ancient fortress, a few fragments of 
columns and entablatures, and the 
ruins of ach. This is the site of the 
Eboda of Ptolemy, marked in the 
Peutinger tables at 23 Rom. m. 8. of 
Elusa..... We here fall into the 
route of Dr. Robinson from ’Akabah 
to Hebron: he came from the former 
place to el-’Abdeh in 46 hrs. 15 min. 
In Wady Ruhaibeh, 5 hrs., are wells 
and tanks ; and on the rising ground | 
above it lie the ruins of a large town, 
co heaps of stones, intermixed 
with some columns. Its name and 
history are lost; but it may perhaps 
indicate the position of the well dug 
by Isaac’s servants, and called Reho- 
both. (Gen. xxvi. 22.) From the con- 
vent to this place is reckoned 9 days 
by the direct road; but 10 by Nukhl, 
the way I have described. From Ru- 
haibeh to Gaza (Ghuzzeh) is about 
At Khulasah, 2 h. 50 min., are ruins 
situated along the northern bank of a 
shallow valley called Wady el-Kurm. 
The extent of the ruins, now com- 
pletely prostrate, would indicate a 
population in former times of about 
20,000. This is unquestionably the 
site of the ancient Klusa, first men- 
tioned by Ptolemy, and laid down on 
the Peutinger tables at 71 Rom. m. 8. 
of Jerusalem. Though it became an 
episcopal city, it was chiefly inha- 
bited by idolaters addicted to the 
worship of Venus. 
Bir es-Seb’a, Beersheba, 54 hrs. 
Hebron, 12 hra, (See Rte. 5.) 


PALESTINE, ( 67 ) 
SECTION II. 
PALESTINE—JERUSALEM. 
ROUTE. 
ROUTE PAGE 
7. Hebron to Jerusalem 67 


Hebron, el-Khultl ;—Tomb of the. Patriarchs, Mamre ;—Pools 


of Solomon. 
ROUTE 7%. 
HEBRON TO JERUSALEM, 
H M. 
Hebron to Rameh .. .. .. 1 O 
Beit Sar (Beth-Zur) .. .. .. 0 45 
Pools of Solomon (Etham) .. 3 0 
Rachel’s Tomb .. .. . . Ll O 
Mar Elias .. 12 «2 of « O 35 
Jerusalem .. .. «es « « O 50 
Total oo te ee Co E10 


Hebron is one of the most ancient 
cities in the world still existing, and it is 
in this respect the rival of Damascus. 
There are a few chapters of deep and 
sacred interest in its long history. It 
was built, says a sacred writer, “seven 
years before Zoan in Egypt” (Num. 
xiii. 22), and those who wish to impress 
us with a clear idea of its remote anti- 
quity repeat this mystic phrase. But 
when was Zoan built ? e Egyptian 
antiquary replics, “Seven years after 
Hebron ;’ and this is about the most de- 
finite reply hecan give. It is well, how- 
ever, that we can prove the antiquity 
of Hebron independently of Egypt’s 
mystic annals. “Hebron,” says Dr. 
Robinson, “is doubtless one of the 
most ancient cities in the world still 
existing, being mentioned in Scripture 
still earlier than Damascus.” This is 
quite true; but then the two cities 
are mentioned in connection with the 
same historical event, and Damascus 
is spoken of as a well-known place. 
We have no reason, therefore, to con- 
clude from this that Hebron was the 


more ancient (Gen. xiii. 18; xiv. 15). 
The original name of Hebron was Kir- 
jath-Arba, “City of Arba;” so called 
from Arba, the father of Anak, and 
rogenitor of the giant Anakims. 
(Josh. xxi. 11.) It afterwards took 
or a time the name Mamre, doubtless 
from Abraham’s friend and ally, 
Mamre the Amorite, who in the patri- 
arch’s deve possessed it. (Gen. xxiii. 
19) “The ancient city lay in a 
valley; and the two pools now ex- 
isting, one of which at least is as early 
as the time of David, serve unques- 
tionably to identify the modern with 
the ancient site.” The chief interest 
of the town and neighbourhood arises 
from their having been so long the 
favourite camping-ground of the pa- 
triarchs, and the scene of some of the 
most remarkable events of their lives. 
Often were these hill-sides and this 
fertile vale speckled with the vast 
flocks of the Chaldsean shepherd, while 
his tent was pitched beneath the 

reading branches of “the oak.” 

ere he dwelt in peace on that day 
when the news was brought to him 
that Sodom was plundered and his 
nephew Lot a captive; and from 
hence he set out in pursuit of the 
enemy with his 318 servants and his 
allies the Amorites. Here too, a few 
years afterwards, “as he sat in the 
tent door in the heat of the day,” he 
received a visit from the angel of the 
Lord, who, after promising him a son, 
informed him of the approaching 
destruction of the “cities of the 
plain.” And here Sarah died; and 


a 


68 


Abraham bought from Ephron the 
Hittite the only portion of the “ Land 
of Promise” he could ever call his 
own—the cave and fleld of Mach- 

lah—to serve as a family tomb. 

rab was first laid in it; then Abra- 
ham himself; then Isaac and his wife 
Rebekah ; then Leah; and after an 
interval the embalmed body of Jacob, 
the last of the noble “three,” was 
brought up out of Egypt, and laid be- 
side his fathers. The “cave” must 
still be here, for it is one of those mo- 
numents which time does not destroy ; 
and perhaps the very tombs them- 
selves with their sacred ashes are yet in 
it. The tombs of the patriarchs were 
known and honoured in Josephus’s 
time, who describes them as con- 
structed of the “ most beautiful marble, 
and of exquisite workmanship.” Eu- 
sebius, Jerome, and subsequent writers 
refer to them in such a way as leads 
to the conviction that the massive 
walls of the “ Haram,’’ now the great 
attraction of the town, really enclose 
the cave of Machpelah. This struc- 
ture was long known as the “Castle 
of Abraham "—a name also applied 
in the time of the crusades to the 
whole city; and as Abraham is called 
by Mohammedans el- Khulil, “the 
Friend,” this has become the modern 
name of Hebron. 

When the Israelites entered Pales- 
tine, Hebron was captured by Joshua 
from the descendants of Anak, and 
given to Caleb (Josh. x. 36; xiv. 6-15; 
xv. 13, 14). It was afterwards as- 
signed to the Levites, and also conati- 
tuted one of the six cities of refuge 
(Josh. xxi. 11-13). Here David, after 
the death of Saul; established the 
seat of his governmett and con- 
tinued to dwell during the seven years 
and a half he reigned over Judah. 

2 Sam. ii.) Upon the return of the 

ews from Babylon, Hebron was re- 
built and inhabited ; but it soon fell 
into the hands of the Edomites, from 
whom it was rescued by Judas Mac- 
cabeus. After the defeat of the Jews 
at Bether in a.p. 135, thousands of 
the captives were brought here by 
the victorious Romans and sold into 
slavery at the oak beside Hebron, 


Route 7.— Hebron to Jerusalem. 


‘low down in a narrow VY: 


Sect. I: 


—on the very spot perhaps where 
the tent of their illustrious forefathers 
had stood centuries before. In A.D. 
1167 the city was made by the cru- 
saders a Latin bishopric, and con- 
tinued so, at least nominally, for about 
200 years; but it reverted to the 
Muslems in 1187, and has ever since 
remained in their hands. The ch. 
the Christians had erected within 
the sacred enclosure was converted 
into a mosk ; and now for long cen- 
turies no foot of Jew, Christian, or 
other infidel dog, has knowingly been 
permitted to tread the sacred pre- 
cincts. But its time is coming. 
Hebron is picturesquel situated 
ey—“ the 
Valley of Eshcol ;’ whose sides are 
clothed as of yore with luxuriant vine- 
yards, each having its “tower,” groves 
of gray olives, and a fair sprinkli ing 
of other fruit-trees. The valley runs 
from N. to 8.; and the main quarter 
of the town, surmounted by the lofty 
walls of the venerable Haram, lies 
partly on the eastern slope. A little 
to the N. is another quarter, separated 
from the former by gardens; while 
on the western side of the valley there 
is a small suburb striking out from 
the main quarter and facing the 
Haram. The houses are all of stone, 
solidly built, flat-roofed, and having 
each one or two little cupolas, such 
as are seen in several of Pales- 
tine, and also in one of the suburbs 
of Damascus. There are no walls; 
but the main streets opening on the 
principal roads have gates. In the 
bottom of the valley southward, where 
the houses stretch across it, is the 
lower “‘ pool,” —a square tank, 130 ft. 
on each side and about 50 ft. deep, 
solidly built with large hewn stones. 
At the northern end of the main 
quarter is another pool, 85 ft. long, 
55 ft. broad, and 18 ft. deep. These 
furnish the chief supply of water to 
the inhabitants. They are manifestly 
of remote antiquity; and one of 
them, probably the southern, is doubt- 
less that over which David hanged the 
murderers of his rival Ishbosheth. (2 
Sam. iv.) Other antiquities of very 
questionable identity will be shown 


ns sonal 


PALESTINE, 


to those who care for them—such as 
the tombs of Abner, and Jesse, David's 
father; the precise spot where Cain 
slew Abel ; the red earth from which 
Adam was made, &c. &c. 


The Haram—Cave of Machpelah.— 
This is unquestionably the most in- 
teresting object in Hebron, and one 
of the most so in all Palestine. It 
has been revered in succession, during 
full 3700 years, by Jews, Christians, 
and Muslems, all of whom, however 
else they may differ, agree in honour- 
ing this the sepulchre of the great 
Patriarch, el-Khulil, “The Friend of 
God.” The building stands . alon 
the lower slope of the hill-side, an 
measures about 200 ft. long by 115 ft. 
broad, and 50 to 60 ft. high. The 
walls are constructed of very large 
stones, bevelled and hewn smooth, 
like those in the substructure of the 
Temple at Jerusalem. Some of the 
stones are more than 20 ft. in le . 
The exterior is ornamented with pilas- 
ters, 16 on each side and 8 at each 
end, supporting, without capitals, a 
plain moulded cornice. The whole 
design is thus unique, and gives a 
distinctive character to the structure. 
This ancient wall is surmounted by 
another of Saracenic origin, some 10 
ft. high, with a minaret at each angle, 
only two of which, however, are now 
complete. The entrances are at the 
angles of the northern end, from 
which easy and spacious staircases 
lead up to a door in each side wall, 
opening on the court. A good view 
of one of these is given in Trail’s 
‘ Josephus,’ from a drawing by Tip- 
ping. 

In the court is a mosk, once a 
Christian ch., in which are tombs of 
comparatively modern date, raised in 
honour of the patriarchs and their 
wives. ‘The sepulchres of the patri- 
archs are covered with palls of green 
silk, those of the wives with red em- 
broidered with gold. The real tombs, 
however, are universally admitted to 
be in a “cave” below the building. 
No clear description has ever yet 
been given of the interior, and, indeed, 
the only Frank who appears to have 


Route 7.—Haram— Cave of Machpelah. 69 


entered it is Ali Bey, a Spaniard who 
travelled under the guise and name 
of a Muslem. His account is so con- 
fused that it is more like the sum- 
mary of a hearsay than the result of 
personal examination. Munro also 
professes to describe it, but, as he 

oes not give any authority, we may 
question his accuracy. he court 
itself with all its contents is compara- 
tively uninteresting—it is the cave 
below, to which even Muslems are 
not indiscriminately admitted, that 
forms the real object of attraction, 
asin it some relics of the patriarchs 
or their times may still be preserved. 
This opinion appears to be confirmed 
by the statements of Benjamin of 
Tudela, who visited the place in 1163, 
while in the hands of the Franks. 
His description is worth recording :— 
“The modern town stands in the 
valley, even in the field of Machpe- 
lah. Here is the lace of wor- 
ship called St. A which, 
during the time of the Mohammedans, 
was a synagogue. The Gentiles have 
erected six sepulchres in this place, 
which they pretend to be those of 
Abraham and Sarah, of Isaac and 
Rebekah, and of Jacob and Leah; 
the pilgrims are told that they are in 
the sepulchres of their fathers, and 
money is extorted from them. But 
if any Jew come who gives an addi- 
tional fee to the keeper of the cave, 
an iron door is opened, which dates 
from the times of our forefathers, who - 
rest in peace, and with a burning 
candle in his hands the visitor de- 
scends into a first cave, which is 
empty, traverses a second in the same 
state, and at last reaches a third, 
which contains six sepulchres, those 
of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; and 
of Sarah, Rebekah, and Leah, one op- 
posite the other. All these sepul- 
chres bear inscriptions, the letters 
being engraved; thus, upon that of 
Abraham we read, ‘This is the se- 
pulchre of our father Abraham, upon 
whom be peace!” and so upon that 
of Isaac, and upon all the others. 
You then see tubs filled with the 
bones of Israelites, for unto this day 
it is a custom of the house of Israel to 


—_— 


70 


bring hither the bones of their relicts 
and of their forefathers, and to leave 
them there.” 

But however unsatisfactory the de- 
scriptions of the buildings, and how- 
ever doubtful Benjamin's story of the 
caves (the word Machpelak signifies 
‘‘double”’), there can no reason- 
able doubt of the fact that the place 
of sepulture of Abraham and the 
other patriarchs, as recorded in Ge- 
nesis, is within these walls. The 
structure was referred to, as stated 
above, by J. osephus, Eusebius, and 
Jerome, as well known in their day. 
The Bordeaux pilgrim, who travelled 
in a.D. 333, describes it as “a quad- 
rangle constructed of stones of great 
beauty.” Antoninus Martyr speaks of 
it in the 6th centy. as “a quadrangle 
with an interior court.” Later travel- 
lers and pilgrims refer to it in similar 
terms. It thus appears not only that 
the tradition of the site has come 
down unbroken and unquestioned 
from the Jewish period to our own 
day, but that the very building itself, 
now called el-Haram, “the Sanc- 
tuary,” was the workmanship of Abra- 
ham’s own descendants while they yet 
dwelt in Palestine. 

The Jews cling around this spot 
still, as they do around the ruins of 
their ancient temple, taking pleasure 
in its stones, and loving its very dust. 
Beside the principal entrance is a 
little hole in the massive wall, 
through which the Jews are permit- 
ted at certain times to look into the 
interior. Here the poor despised out- 
casts of Israel may be often seen 
chanting their prayers, wailing, and 
kissing the stones, 

The population of Hebron is esti- 
mated at about 10,000, including 400 
or 500 Jews, chiefly Spanish. There 
are no Christians. The inhabitants 
have been long celebrated for their 
turbulence and fanaticism; and the 
traveller will be fortunate if he do 
not see and experience some effects 
of them still. A number of the in- 
habitants are occupied in the manu- 
facture of water-skins and glass 
trinkets, and the staple products of 
the soil are grapes and olives. The 


Route 7.—Hebron—Abraham’s Oak. 


Sect. I. 


“bunches of Eshcol” are still the 
admiration of all who see them. 
Neither wine nor brandy is now made 
except by the Jews in very 
quantities, but raisins and dibs (“sy- 
rup of grapes;” the Hebrew p44 
translated “honey”—Gen. xliii. 11) 
are produced to a considerable ex- 
tent. 


There is another object in Hebron 
worthy of a visit—Abraham's Oak (80 
called). Leaving the town, we pro- 
ceed northward up the valley through 
groves of noble olives, and in about 
25 min. we reach the oak—Sindién 
or Ballét in Arabic. It stands quite 
alone in the midst of vineyards; the 
ground is smooth and clean beneath it, 
and close by is a well of pure water, 
so that it is one of the sweetest spots 
around the town for a temporary en- 
campment. The only drawback is, 
that it is a little too far distant for 
such as can only remain a short 
time. This splendid tree measures 
23 ft. round the lower part of the 
trunk ; and its foliage covers a space 
nearly 90 ft. in diameter. Though 
evidently of great age, it is still sound 
and flourishing; and there are few 
trees to be compared with it for size 
and appearance in Syria. The great 

lune-tree of Damascus is nearly 

ouble its girth, 40 ft.; but it has 
suffered much, both from the hand 
of man and the tooth of time. Seve- 
ral of the cedars are also larger, 
though, being grouped together, they 
do not show to such advantage. This, 
say some, is the veritable tree beneath 
whose shade Abraham pitched his 
tent; while others affirm that it was 
beneath its spreading branches the 
Roman soldiers sold the captive Jews 
taken at Bether. It is scarcely ne- 
cessary to say that neither of these 
views is tenable. The tree has no 
marks of such high antiquity, nor is 
there any early written testimony to 

ive probability to the theory. Abra- 

m’s oak is said by Josephus to have 
been six stadia from Hebron; and 
Eusebius states that it existed in his 
day, and was worshipped by the 
people of the country, because be- 


PALESTINE. 


neath it an angel had been entertained. 
Jerome, however, affirms that in the 
time of Constantine (circa a.pD. 830) 
a Christian ch. was erected on the 

t where it had stood; and of 
this Eusebius himself gives an ac- 


count in his ‘Life of Constantine.’ | kin 


The “oak” therefore (or “terebinth ” 
as some call it) disappeared about 
the year 330. Maundeville as usual 
tells a marvellous legend about it— 
how it was once green; and how it 
dried up at the time of our Lord's 
death, and continued so ever after: 
but, he adds, “ Although it be dry, still 
it has great virtue; for certainly he 
that hath a little thereof upon him it 
heals him of the falling evil, and his 
horse ahall not be afoundered. it 
t nt knight saw a tree at all, 
it 0 Bid not have been this one. 

But though we have no ancient re- 
cord of this venerable tree, we cannot 
but recognise it as a representative of 
the oaks of Mamre, under whose shade 
Abraham communed with his Crea- 
tor, and received angels as guests. 
It is the last tree of that sacred forest, 
and as such all honour to its noble 
stem and wide-spreading boughs ! 

The scenery of the country around 
Hebron is among the most pleasing 
and picturesque in Palestine ; the hills 
are rugged enough to have features, 
rocky but not naked; the deep winding 
valleys are well cultivated, and the 
olive-groves give them a rich appear. 
ance; the gray ruins above, which we 
see on almost every hill-top, remind 
us that we are not in the land of the 
West. ... This is the culminating 
point of the Palestine range, and He- 

ron is the highest situated town in 
Syria, being 2800 ft. above the sea. 


We are now on holy ground. Every 
footfall is upon soil trodden long cen- 
turies ago by patriarch and prophet ; 
every view the eye rests on was seen 
as we see it by Abraham, Isaac, and 
Jacob, by Samuel, David, and Solo- 
mon. The cities they built, or dwelt 
in, are now heaps of ruins; but the 
features of nature remain unchanged— 
the mountains, the valleys, the foun- 
tains, the rocks, are all here. It is 


Route 7.—Hebron to Jerusalem. 


this which gives such a deep and last- 
ing interest to this land. The sweet- 
est lines that ever poet penned, the 
noblest strains that ever minstrel 
sung, were penned and sung amon 
these mountains by the s epherd. 
g. 


The harp the monarch minstrel swept, 
The king of men, the loved of Heav‘n, 
Which music hallow’d while she wept 
. O’er tones her heart of hearts hath given, 
Redoubled be her tears, its chords are riven ! 
It soften’d men of iron mould, . 
It gave them virtues not their own ; 
No ear so dull, no soul so cold, 
That felt not, fired not, to the tone, 
Till David’s lyre grew mightier than his — 


throne ! 
It told the triumphs of our king, 
It wafted glory to our God; 


It made our gladden’d valleys ring, 
The cedars bow, the mountains nod ; 
Its sound aspired to heaven and there abode !” 


We follow the ancient road to Jeru- 
salem. It is still well enough defined, 
but sadly out of repair. The Romans 
—those royal roadmakers—appear to 
have given it the last touch, but such 
a woful change has taken place since 
that time, that Dr. Robinson affirmed, 
after a short experience of it, “ wheels 
certainly never passed here.” This, 
perhaps, is going a little too far. One 
is apt to forget what 12 centuries and 
more of neglect, and of the elements, 
can do even on a Roman road. But, 
rugged though it be, its associations 
make us forget a stumbling horse. 
Along it Abraham passed on that 
journey of faith to sacrifice his son on 

oriah. Along it David led his 
veterans to conquer the stronghold of 
the Jebusites on Zion. And along it 
perhaps the Saviour was borne in his 
mother’s arms on the way to Egypt to 
escape the cruelty of Herod. 

In 40 min. the vineyards and the 
valley of Eschol are left behind, and 
we enter an open country. On the 1. 
is a ruined village, formerly inhabited 
by a few Christian families, who were 
massacred by the Muslems. In 15 
min. more a path strikes off to the 
rt. to Tek(’a, the ancient Tekoa. A 
few hundred yds. along it are some 
massive foundations now called 


Ramet el-Khulil.—This place ought 


> ~ 


72 


not to be passed without a visit. The 
first things that attract attention on 
reaching the spot are the remains of 
2 ancient walls of a large enclosure— 
one facing the S., 290 ft. long, the 
other at right angles, 160 ft. There 
are only 2 courses of stones now re- 
maining, each 3 ft. 4 in. high; some of 
the stones are from 10 to 15 ft. in 
length. The remaining foundations 
of the rectangle are indistinct. There 
are other foundations at a little dis- 
tance on the slope of the hill, chiefly 
on the N. and E., and fragments of 
mosaic pavement may be here and 
there seen. On the top of the hill, 
400 yds. N. of the large walls, are seve- 
ral fragments of columns lying among 
heaps of hewn stones, and here also is 
a cistern hewn out of the rock. The 
situation is commanding, the view 
embracing a large section of the south- 
ern hill country, and a peep at the 
western sea. 

The place is now called Rameh, or 
Ramet el-Khulil. The Jews of He- 
bron call it “the house of Abraham,’ 
and look upon it as the place where 
the patriarch’s tent was so often 
pitched beneath the oak (or terebinth) 
of Mamre. (I may observe that what 
is rendered, in the English version, 
“plain of Mamre,” is in Hebrew “ oak 
of Mamre,”’ Gen. xiv. 13; xiii. 18.) 
There can be little doubt that this is 
the spot referred to by Eusebius, Je- 
rome, and other writers in the earl 
centuries of our era, as that on which 
the supposed oak of Abraham stood. 
The words of the Jerusalem Itinerary 
seem to be conclusive on the point, 
especially as it was written by a tra- 
veller early in the 4th centy. “Two 
miles from Hebron is the terebinth 
where Abraham dwelt, and digged a 
well under the tree, and spake with the 
angels, and prepared food. There a 
basilica of singular beauty was erected 
by command of Constantine.”” A long 
account of it is given by Sozomon in 
the 5th centy., who places it 15 stadia 
N. of Hebron. Adamnanus, in the 7th 
centy., says that “agreat church was 
founded, on the rt. hand part of which, 
between the walls, stood the oak of 
Mamre.” The tree, it appears, had 


Route 7.—Hebron to Jerusalem. 


Sect. IT, 


become an object of worship both to 
Christians and heathens, and the latter 
set up around it an idol and altars. 
To put an end to these practices the 
Emperor Constantine gave orders for 
the erection of a basilica, and intrusted 
the oversight of it to Eusebius. It is 
also related that this had been long the 
seat of a great fair, to which the people 
resorted from far and near; and that 
after the final overthrow of the Jews 
at Bether, a.p. 135, the captives of 
every age and sex were here publicly 
sold as slaves. But though this site 
answers to the descriptions of early 
historians, it is not quite clear what 
was the original object of the massive 
walls—they may possibly be the re- 
mains of Constantine's basilica. 
Descending the hill on the N., we 
strike across again to the Jerusalem 
road, and in 30 min. we observe on the 
top of a hill, 4 m. to the rt., an old 
mosk with a minaret, called Neby 
Yfinas ; behind the summit is the little 
village of Hulhdl, standing on the site 
of the Halhul of Scripture. (Josh xv. 


58. 

Pa 20 min. more a half-ruined tower 
with pointed arches stands on the 1. 
of the road, and near it, on the rt., is 
a fountain, surrounded by massive 
foundations and excavated tombs. 
The place is sometimes called Dirweh, 
but the name of the tower is Beit Sar, 
which suggests at once the Beth-zur 
of J oahu, mentioned in connexion with 


For 3 hours from this place we ride 
through a rugged but picturesque re- 
gion—now crossing narrow valleys that 
run away in tortuous courses through 
the wilderness of Judwa to the Dead 
Sea; now passing over broken ridges 
of Jura limestone; and now skirting 
the base of a higher crown that rises 
up in the line of the road. The hills 
are covered with dwarf-oak, arbutus, 
and other bushes, intermixed with a 
profusion of gay wild-flowers; the val- 
leys have here and there a rich soil ; 
the remains of terraces are everywhere 
seen, giving evidence of former culti- 
vation: but all is now neglected and 
forsaken, and almost the only inha- 
bitants seem to be the partridges, 


PALESTINE. 


Route 7.—Etham.—Solomon’s Pools. 


73 


whose hoarse call is continually in our| 4 different places, from which little 


ears. 


Etham—Solomon’s Pools.—Having at 
last surmounted a low ridge, we look 
down the rocky slope, through fresh 
and fragrant shrubberies, to a broad 
valley, in the midst of which is a large 
recta: building, and to the rt., 
farther down, where the valley begins 
to contract, 3 immense tanks, 1n a line 
one below the other. These are the 
“pools of Solomon,” now called el- 
Burdk, “the tanks.” On descending 
to them we find that they are partl 
excavated in the rocky bed of the val- 
ley, and partly built up of large hewn 
stones, evidently of high antiquity. 
They are so arranged that the bottom 
of the upper pool is higher than the 
top of the next, and so with the second 
and third; the object evidently being 
to collect as great a quantity of water 
as possible. Their dimensions are as 
follows :— 


Upper Pool. 
Feet 
Length .. .. of «ce ec »«. 380 
Depth, east end a oo ee pe)=—625 
east en © ee 236 
Breadth $ rest end .. 2... 229 
Middle Pool. 
Distance from upper pool .. 160 
Length .. .. «oe «+ os 423 
Depth, east end “3 oe 39 
eastend .. © oe 238 
Breadth on end... .. 2. 229 
Lower Poot. 
Distance from middle pool . 248 
Length .. 1. 6. ce ne ee (582 
. Depth, east end es ee ee ae 50 
eastend .. .. .. 207 
- Breadth 5 rest end .. 4. 148 


The source from which these great 
pools receive their supplies is a sub- 
terranean fountain in the open field 
some distance up the valley to the 
N.W. The only visible mark is a 
circular opening like the mouth of a 
well, generally covered with a large 
stone. This hole opens, at a depth 
of about 12 ft. into a vaulted cham- 
ber, 15 paces long by 8 broad. Ad- 
joining it is another smaller apart- 
ment; both being covered with ancient 
stone arches. ‘The water springs up at 

[Syria and Palestine. ] 


ducts carry it into a basin; and it 
then flows through a large subterra- 
nean passage to a place at the N.W. 
corner of the upper pool, Here the 
stream is divided, a portion flowing 
into a vault 24 ft. by 5, and thence 
through a square duct at the side into 
the upper pool. The remainder of 
the water is carried by an aqueduct 
along the hill-side N. of the pools, 
but so arranged as to send a portion 
off into the second and third ; it then 
descends rapidly till it meets the aque- 
duct issuing from the lower end of the 
lower pool, and runs by Bethlehem in 
&@ winding course to Jerusalem. The 
object of this complicated system of 
waterworks was probably to secure a 
constant supply of water for the Holy 
City—perhaps the temple; and that 
it might be as pure as. possible, it was 
drawn directly from the fountain- 
head. When the fountain yielded 
more than was needed, the surplus 
passed into the pools; and when it 
yielded too little, it was augmented 
from the pools. Another aqueduct 
from the valley, farther 8., brought at 
one time a supply to the lower pool. 

The antiquity of these reservoirs, 
and the aqueducts connected with 
them, cannot be questioned ; and their 
extent, solidity, and distance from the 
place they were intended to supply 
prove that they could only have been 
constructed during times of prosperity. 
Yet we find no reference either in 
Scripture, or in the writings of Jose- 
phus, to any such supplies of water 

eing conveyed to Jerusalem. There 
was, however, a city near Bethlehem 
called Etham, 50 stadia from Jerusa~ 
lem, which, according to Josephus, 
had gardens and rivulets of water, 
and to which Solomon was in the 
habit of taking a morning drive. From 
hence, say the Rabbins, water was 
conveyed to the temple. The aque- 
duct, as shall be seen, still terminates 
in the area of the Haram, where the 
temple stood. 


Etham.—In the narrow valley, a 
short distance below the pools, is the 
little village of Urtis, with ancient 

E 


74 


ruins. Is not this the site of Etham, 
and are not these in truth the “ pools 
ofSolomon”’? The beautiful passage 
in Ecclesiastes seems in every way 
applicable to this place: “I made me 
great works; I builded me houses; I 
planted me vineyards; I made me 
gardens and orchards, and I planted 
trees in them of all kinds of fruits ; I 
made me pools of water, to water there- 
with the w that bringeth forth 
trees.” (ii. 4, 5.) There is now in 
Etham, or Urtas, a worthy descendant 
of Abraham, who has built a house, and 
formed gardens and orchards, which 
rival those of Solomon in productive- 
ness, if not in beauty. I visited this 
delightful oasis a few years ago, and 
was nota little struck with the won- 
derful capabilities of the soil of Pales- 
tine when properly tended and 
irrigated. (For Etham see below, 
Rte. 11.) 

On the N.W. side of the upper pool 
is a large rectangular building, half 
castle, half khan, apparently of Sara- 
cenic origin, now occupied solely by 
the guardian of the waters. The Je- 
rusalem road passes close in front of 
it, ascends the N. bank of the valley, 
and winds across an elevated tract 
covered with rocks and bushes. Beth- 
lehem comes in sight here, standing 
on a bold ridge projecting from the 
mountains eastward, 4 m. from the 
road. It is hid by an intervening 
height ere we get opposite to it. On 
the ]. is now a lovely valley, encom- 
passed by olive-groves, and having 
embowered on its western slope the 
little village of Beit Jala, where the 
Latins have erected a large church and 
palace for the patriarch of Jerusalem. 


Rachel’s Tomb.—Proceeding up an 
easy, rocky slope, we observe in 15 
min. more a small white square build- 
ing, surmounted by a dome, on the 
side of the road. It is the “sepulchre 
of Rachel.” The building is com- 
paratively modern, but the authenti- 
city of the site cannot be questioned. 
It is one of the few shrines which 
Muslems, Jews, and Christians agree 
in honouring, and concerning which 
their traditions are identical. The 


Route 7.—Rachel’s Tomb. 


Sect. IT, 


narrative in the Bible is simple, gra- 
phic, and affecting. It will be read 
at this spot with a new interest. 
“They journeyed from Bethel, and 
there was but a little way to come to 
Ephrath. . . . And Rachel died, and 
was buried on the way to Ephrath, 
which is Bethlehem.” The pillar 
Jacob set up over the grave of his 
beloved wife was still there in Moses’ 
time. (Gen. xxxv. 16-20.) It has long 
since been swept away, but 30 cen- 
turies of sorrow and suffering have not 
been able to sweep away the memory 
of its site from the hearts of Rachel’s 
posterity. Bethlehem is in sight, and 
scarcely a mile distant. 

Looking back we see Beit Jala on 
the rt., about the same distance as 
Bethlehem. Is not this the Zelzah 
mentioned by Samuel in sending Saul 
home after anointing him king at 
Ramah? ‘ When thou art departed 
from me to-day, thou shalt find twomen 
by Rachel’s sepulchre in the border 
of Benjamin, at Zelzah, and they will 
say unto thee, The asses which thou 
wentest to seek are found: and, lo, 
thy father hath left the care of the 
asses, and sorroweth for thee, saying, 
What shall I do for my son?” (1 Sam. 
ix., x.) The place was called Zelah 
by Joshua (xviii. 28). 

Passing the tomb, we skirt the side 
of a rocky hill, and have a wide and 
wild landscape of glen and mountain 
on our rt. Bethlehem is a fine object 
behind, occupying the summit of a 
terraced ridge, clothed with the olive, 
vine, and fig. Its large convent on 
the eastern brow resembles some old 
baronial castle; the aqueduct from 
the pools is here close to the road on 
the rt. Ascending a steep hill, we 
reach, in half an hour from Rachel’s 
tomb, the convent of Mar Ehias8 

arge pile of gray masonry surroun 

by a high wall. "in the surface of a 
smooth rock, opposite the gate, is 
shown a slight depression, something 
like what might be left by the human 
form reclining on a bed of sand. Here, 
says tradition, the prophet Elijah lay 
down under the shade of an olive, 
weary, hungry, and careworn, when 
he fled from Jezebel; and here an- 


- 


4 
¢ 


§ 
‘ 


f 


PALESTINE, 


gels supplied his wants. Scripture 
tells us that he rested under a juniper, 
and in the wilderness 8. of Beersheba, 
but of course the monks know best! 

But we greatly fear the traveller 
will now have little patience to ex- 
amine the geological vestiges of a 
miracle, for the Holy City is in sight 
in the distance. His eye first catches 
the white buildings on Zion; then to 
the rt. he sees the dark domes of the 
Kubbet es-Sukhrah and Mosk el-Aksa, 
and farther still the western side of 
Olivet, and the little minaret which 
crowns its summit. A large portion 
of the city is hid behind the Hill of 
Evil Counsel. 

Descending the easy slope, having 
the well-cultivated fields of the Greek 
Christians on the rt. and 1., we reach 
in a few minutes a well in the very 
centre of the road, surrounded by 
some rough stones; it is another tra- 
ditional spot. The “ wise men,” when 
dismissed by Herod, wandered thus 
far in uncertainty. Stooping to draw 
water, they suddenly saw their guiding 
star mirrored in the well. The tra- 
dition, if it has no other claim on our 
attention, serves to remind us that 
along this very path the Eastern magi 
travelled from the court of Herod 
to the NEW-BORN Kine in the stable 


Route 7.— Plain of Rephaim. 


- 


75 


of Bethlehem. Descending a little 
farther, we have a low bleak swell 
on the rt., and on the 1. a well- 
cultivated plain about a mile long. 
It declines gradually towards the 
S.W., terminating in a deep narrow 
valley, called Wady el-Werd, “the 
Valley of Roses.” This is the “plain 
of Rephaim,” where David conquered 
the Philistines. (2 Sam. v. 18; Josh. 
xv. 8. It is called in the latter pas- 

e “the Valley of the Giants.’’) 

he plain of Rephaim extends 
nearly to Jerusalem. On advancing 
we find that it is terminated by a 
narrow rocky ridge, which breaks 
down abruptly on the opposite side 
into the deep ravine of Hinnom. On 
the rt. this ridge rises into a naked 
crown, which has received the tra- 
ditional name of the Hill of Evil 
Counsel. On its summit are a few 
ruins, said to be those of the country 
house of Caiaphas, the high-priest. 
Beside these stands a lonely and 
curiously-shaped tree, on which, tra- 


dition tells us, Judas hanged himself. 


We now descend diagonally the 
rocky bank of Hinnom, cross the val- 
ley, and ascend again to the frowning 
walls of the citadel—the gate is before 
us, and we enter 

JERUSALEM. (See next page.) 


5B 2 


76 Route 7.—Jerusalem, — Sect. IL. 


JERUSALEM. 


1, PRELIMINARY INFORMATION, 


§ 1. Hotels, — § 2. Money, Letters, &c. — § 3, The Consulate. — § 4.. The English 
urch. 


2. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS OF MODERN JERUSALEM. 


§ 5. General Topography. —§ 6. The Modern Walls. —§7. Gates. —§ 8. In- 
terior of the City— The Streeta, Quarters, &c. — § 9. The Haram. —§ 10. 
Statistics. — § 11. ReLicious Szcrs — Muslems. — § 12. The Jews. — § 138. 
THE CHRISTIANS — Greeks. —§ 14. The Armenians. — § 15. The Georgians, 
Copts, and Syrians.— § 16. The Latins — Terra Santa Convents.—§ 17. 
The Protestants. —§ 18. The Climate of Jerusalem. 


8, HISTORICAL SKETCH OF JERUSALEM. 


§ 19. Early Notices of Jerusalem.—§ 20. Jerusalem under the Jews.—§ 21. Jeru- 
~~ galem under the ms.—§ 22. Jerusalem under the Mohammedans. 


4. ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY. 


§ 23. Mode of Examination.—§ 24. Mount Zion.—§ 25. The Tyropwon.—§ 26. 
Akra. —§ 27. Moriah. —§ 28. Ophel. — § 29. Bezetha. — § 30. The Valley 
of Hinnom. —§ 31. The Kidron. —§ 32. The Mount of Olives. — § 33. 
Hill of Evil Counsel. 


5. JEWISH ANTIQUITIES. 


§ 34. Ancient Remains few. —§ 35. THE WaLits— The Tower of Hippicus. — 
§ 36. Wall of Zion. — § 37. Wall of Akra. — § 38. Wall of Bezetha. — § 39. 
Extent and Population. ~§ 40. THz TEMPLE —Its Walls, Gates, Courts, 
Shrine. — § 41. Fortress of ANTONIA. — § 42. History of the Platform of 
Moriah. —§ 43. The Mosk el-Aksa. — 44. The Great Mosk.—§ 45. Objects 
of Interest in the Haram. —§ 46. ANCIENT GaTEs of JERUSALEM. — § 47. 


~~~ SUPPLY of WATER — Cisterns — Fountains — Aqueduct.—§ 48. ANCIENT 


Tomss, — § 49, OTHER ANCIENT SITES, 


6. CHRISTIAN ANTIQUITIES. 


§ 50. Hoty SEPULCHRE — History — Holy Places. — § 51. Hoty Fire. — § 52. 
Hospital of St. John. — § 53. Canaculum. —§ 54. The Palace of Caiaphas. 
— § 55. Site of Martyrdom and Church of St. Stephen. — § 56. Churches of 
St. Mary and St. Anne. — § 57. Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin. — § 58. 
Gethsemane. — § 59. Church of the <Ascension.—§ 60, Via Dolorora.— 
§ 61. Convents. —§ 62. Books on Jeruealem, 


JERUSALEM. 


1. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION, 


§ 1. Hotels.—There are 3 hotels in 
Jerusalem, all capable of decided im- 
provement in cleanliness and order. 
Simeon’s, on Mount Zion, near the 
Envlish consulate and church, has 
the best situation, and perhaps the 
best table. The proprietor sometimes 
acts as dragoman for large parties, 
but his terms are said to be high. 
Hauser’s Hotel, Christian Street, is a 
better house; but, as it is situated on 
the side of the large pool of Hezekiah, 
many of the rooms are damp. Com- 
plaints have been made, too, of the 
state of the cuisine, and the bills 
made up for extras. The “ Malta 
Hotel,” in the Via Dolorosa, is lower 
down, near the centre of the city. All 
the hotels charge by the day for board 
and lodging. The rates for 1857 were, 
in Simeon’s, 55 piastres, and in each 
of the others 60. Wine, spirits, and 
ale must be paid for extra, and are 
very dear. There is also a Boarding- 
house, kept by Mox_Unggr, a tailor, 
not far from the Church of the Sepul- 
chre. Its sole difference from the 
hotels appears to consist in the name. 
The charge 
to 50 during the “ season.’ 

About Easter, which is the Jerusalem 
“ geason,” all these houses are some- 
times so full that travellers cannot get 
a bed. Those who have tents and 
equipage need not deem this any great 
misfortune, as they may encamp out- 
side the walls, and perhaps enjoy more 
comfort than in the crowded dwellings 
of the city. Except where there are 
ladies, I would recommend the quiet 
and freedom of the tent as preferable 
to the bustle of a bad hotel. The 
sides of the valley in front of the YAfa 
Gate form the usual and most conve- 
nient campihg-ground. A change may 
be made for a day or two over to the 
side or summit of the Mount of Olives, 
so as to enjoy the splendid morning 
views of the city, and evening views of 
the wilderness of Judsa, the Dead Sea, 
and the Moab Mountains. Whether 
in the city or out of it, however, it is 
as well to remember that the gates are 
shut at sunset, with the exception of 


Preliminary Information. 


is 30 piastres a-day, rising 


~~ 


the Yafa Gate, which is 4 an hour 
later, and, without a special order from 
the governor, not opened again till 
sunrise. 

In former days travellers were wont 
to lodge at the convents, and a few 
try them still. Here little comfort 
need be expected. The cells are gene- 
rally about as abundantly stocked as 
the study of an entomologist. The 
attendance, too, is sorry enough, and 
the reception anything but flattering, 
unless one goes to them with a lordly 
train, such as gives fair prospect of a 
golden return. 

I shall here add a hint or two in 
reference to Syrian hotels in general, 
and some Jerusalem ones in parti- 
cular, in the hope that it may save 
travellers at least from disappoint- 
ment, and possibly lead to reform. 
The proprietors have not a good name 
for strict honesty or honourable con- 
duct towards their guests: not that 
they are extravagant in their charges, 
for the rate is reasonable enough ; nor 
that they are not respectful in their 
address and obliging in their service, 
for they are sa almost to a fault ; but 
they have got a sad habit of sponging 
the traveller in other respects. They 
form conspiracies with dragomen, 
muleteers, curiosity-vendors, silk-mer- 
chants, and even with cicerones, to 
levy a tax of from 10 to 50 per cent. 
on every farthing that passes out of 
the traveller's pocket. It may be all 
very well to charge a rent to those 
who are permitted to encumber the 
courts and lobbies of the hotel with 
their wares, and to bore guests by an 
exhibition of their trinkets on the stair- 
cases and at the table; but it is 
nothing short of gross and shameful 
fraud to extort a large percentage 
from those who, at the special request 
of the traveller, bring articles to his 
own apartment for inspection. 

Houses in Jerusalem are bad, and 
rents high considering the accommo- 
dations. The thick walls and vaulted 
roofs combine with the subterranean 
reservoirs and porous stone to render 
most of the houses gloomy and damp. 


§ 2. Money, Letters, &c.—Circular 


78 


notes, bills on London, and letters of 
credit are readily discounted by Mr. 
Bergheim, banker, whose office is near 
the citadel. Exchange is usually much 
lower than at Beyrout, while the 
nominal price of gold is much higher. 
Letters should be addressed to the 
care of the English consul, or of Mr. 
Bergheim, banker; and if not found 
according to address, they may be in- 
quired for at the office of the Messa- 
geries Impériales, near the Yafa Gate, 
where they are often detained until 
applied for. The mails from England 
and France arrive, vid Alexandria and 
Yafa, each alternate Thursday, and de- 

art also on the same day. Letters for 
Smyrna, Constantinople, and Greece 
are despatched on the previous Tues- 
day, so as to meet the French steamer 
proceeding northward at Yafa. There 
is an overland Turkish post to Beyrout 
every Wednesday, arriving on the fol- 
lowing Sunday, and vice versed. 


§ 3.—The Consulate, where strangers 
will be most likely to find their letters, 
and where they are required to enrol 
their names on arrival, is situated on 
Mount Zion, beside the English church, 
and just opposite the citadel. Mr. 
Finn, the consul, is also president of 
the “ Jerusalem Literary Society,” con- 
nected with which is a library and a 
small collection of antiquities. To 
these, travellers are admitted, on 
making personal application to the 
consul. This is a great boon, as the 
library contains a few good works on 
the history and topography of the 
Holy City. 


§ 4. English Church.—Divine ser- 
vice, according to the forms of the 
Church of England, is celebrated every 
Sunday in Christ’s Church at 10 o'clock. 
The Rev. Mr. Crawford, of the London 
Jewish Mission, is the present incum- 
bent, but the Right Reverend Samuel 
Gobat, Anglican Bishop of Jerusalem, 
generally assists at the service. 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Topography. 


Sect. IT. 


2. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS OF 
MODERN JERUSALEM. 


§ 5. General Topography.—Jerusa- 
lem, now called by.the Arabs El-Kuds 
(* The Holy’), and sometimes el-Kuds 
esh-Sherif (“ Kuds the Noble”’), stands 
near the summit of a broad, irregular 
mountain ridge, which extends in 
length from the plain of Esdraelon to 
the desert of Beersheba, and in breadth 
from the plains of Sharon and Phi- 
listia to the valley of the Jordan and 
shores of the Dead Sea. The water- 
shed is only a very little to the W. 
of the city; for, while the valleys that 
encompass it flow to the Dead Sea, 
Wady el-Werd, commencing in the 
plain of Rephaim to the 8., and Wady 
Beit Hanina, whose head is a few 
miles to the N. of the city, run to the 
Mediterranean. The broad summit of 
the mountain ridge is here broken up 
into a wilderness of bleak, rugged, 
limestone crowns, divided by deep 
ravines; so that the whole has a 
dreary and desolate aspect. White 
rocks project on every side from the 
scanty soil, and the soil itself is almost 
as white as the rocks, save where here 


‘and there a little fountain trickles, or 


a vine stretches out its long green 
branches, or a dusky olive rears up its 
rounded top and casts its dark shadow. 
In the midst of these crowns com- 
mence 2 valleys. They are at first 
only gentle depressions, having be- 
tween them a stony swell }# m. 
wide. They both run eastward for a 
short distance; that on the N. con- 
tinues in this direction about 14 m., 
and then makes a bold sweep to the 
S., descends rapidly, and soon becomes 
deep and narrow, with precipitous 
sides. This is the Valley of Jehosha- 
phat, or “Brook Kidron” (2 Sam. 
xv. 23). The other, after j 
about # m. E. by S., turns suddenly 
southward, but in less than 3? m. 
more it encounters a rocky hill-side, 
which forces it again into an eastern 
course. It now descends between 
broken cliffs on the rt. and shelving 
banks on the 1, until in 4 m. farther 
it unites with the former. This is the 
“Valley of Hinnom” (Josh. xv. 8). 


JERUSALEM. 


In the broad, elevated delta between 
Hinnom and Jehoshaphat stands Je- 
rusalem. This delta is itself divided 
by another valley, the Tyropewon of 
Josephus, which runs with a slight 
curve from the N.W. to the S8.E., 
leaving a high ridge on each side, ter- 
minating on the S. in bold declivities. 
The modern city occupies only the 
southern section of these 2 ridges, with 
a portion of the intervening valley. 
All around the site are loftier summits 
—nothing approaching to mountains, 
but rounded, irregular ridges, overtop- 
ping the buildings of the city from 50 
to 200 ft., with openings here and 
there, through which glimpses at the 
more distant country are obtained. On 
the E. is the triple-topped Mount 
of Olives, its terraced sides rising 
steeply from the Valley of Jehosha- 
phat. On the §. is the so-called Hill 
of Evil Counsel, overhanging the wild 
ravine of Hinnom. On the W. the 
ground ascends by rocky acclivities to 
the brow of Wady Beit Hanina. On 
the N. is the hill of Scopus, a western 
projection of the ridge of Olivet. The 


words of the Psalmist are thus graphic |S.W 


and true, whether we take them as re- 
ferring to the mountain region in the 
midst of which the Holy City stands, 
or to the higher summits which ac- 
tually encompass it :— 
* Jerusalem, mountains encompass her 3 
JEHOVAH encompasseth his people from 
henceforth and for ever.”—Ps, cxxv. 2. 
The elevation of Jerusalem above 
the level of the sea is 2200 ft., and that 
of the Mount of Olives 2396. The 
mean geographical position of the cit 
is 31° 46’ 43” N. lat., and 35° 13’ Ee. 
long. It is 27 m. distant from the 
Mediterranean, and 14 from the Dead 
Sea, to which there is a descent of 
3708 ft. 


§ 6. The Modern Walls.—Jerusalem 
is surrounded by walls, high, and im- 
posing in appearance, but far from 
strong. A single discharge of heavy 
artillery would lay them prostrate, yet 
they are sufficient to keep in check the 
roving Arab tribes and the turbulent 
peasantry. They were erected as they 


Modern Walls— Gates. 


now stand by Sultan Suleiman in the 
year 1542, and they appear to occupy 
very nearly the site of the walls of the 
middle ages, from the debris of which 
they are mostly constructed. On the 
eastern side, along the brow of the 
Valley of Jehoshaphat, the section of 
the wall S. of St. Stephen’s Gate is 
of far earlier date, and is constructed 
in part of massive bevelled stones. Of 
a similar character is the south-eastern 
section : these parts form the enclo- 
sure of the Haram esh-Sherif, or Great 
Mosk. The total circuit of the walls 
is 4326 yds., or nearly 2) geog. m, 
The form of the city is irregular, the 
walls having many projections and in- 
dentations ; but 4 sides can easily be 
made out, and these nearly face the 
cardinal points. The eastern wall runs 
in nearly a straight line algng the brow 
of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The 
northern runs nearly W. for about 600. 
yds. over 2 broad ridges of rock, which 
have been excavated to a considerable 
depth on the outside, thus giving the 
battlements an imposing and _pic- 
turesque appearance. Then turning 
the wall crosses the valley in 
which is the Damascus Gate, and as- 
cends the ridge to the N.W. angle, 
where there is a large projection. 
This is the highest point in the city, 
and commands a fine panoramic view. 
On the outside the rock has been cut 
away to some depth, while on the inside 
are massive foundations of bevelled 
stones, now called Kul’at el-Jélid— 
“Goliath's Castle.” The western wall 
runs §.E. to the Yafa Gate, and then 
turns 8. along the brow of the valley 
of Hinnom. Adjoining the Yafa Gate 
on the 8. are the massive towers and 
deep moats of the old citadel, through 
whose cracked battlements a few 
rusty cannon may be seen tottering on 
their carriages. The southern wall is 
carried eastward over the level summit 
of Zion, and then E. by N. in a series 
of zigzags, down the steep declivity 
and across the Tyropceon, till it joins 
the southern wall of the Haram. 


§ 7. Gates.—There are at present 
jive open gates in the walls of Jerusa- 
lem—2 on the 8., and one near the 


co 


80 


centre of each of the other sides. 
They all seem to occupy the sites of 
more ancient ones. They are as fol- 
lows :—1. Bab el-Khulil, “the Hebron 
Gate,” usually called by Franks the 
“ Yafa .” It is on the W. side of 
the city, close to the north-western 
angle of the citadel. It consists of a 
massive square tower, the entrance to 
which from without is on the northern 
side, and the exit within on the eastern. 
All the great roads from the country 
S. and W. converge to this gate. It 
forms the chief entrance to the city, 
and is therefore kept open 4 an hour 
later than the others. 2. Bab el--Amtd 
—*the Gate of the Column,” better 
Imown as the “ Damascus, Cate "— is 
on the N., in the centre of the valley 
between the 2 ridges on which the 
city stands, «It is the most ornamental 
of all the gates, and presents quite an 
imposing appearance, with its turrets, 
battlements, and machicolations. From 
it runs the great north road, past the 
tombs of the kings, and over the ridge 
of Scopus. 3. Bab es-Subdt, “the 
Gate of the Tribes,” called by native 
Christians Bab Sitty Mariam, “the 
Gate of my Lady Mary,” and by 
Franks “ St. Stephen’s Gate,” is on 
the E. side, about 200 ft. N. of the 
Haram wall. It is a plain portal, with 
odd-looking lions sculptured over it. 
A road from it leads down the steep 
slope to the bottom of the Kidron, and 
thence over Olivet to Bethany and 
Jericho. 4. Bab el-Mughdéribeh, “the 
Gate of the Western Africans,” called 
by Franks the “ Dung Gate,” is a 
small obscure portal on the 8. side 
of the city, near the centre of the 
Tyropceon. It does not appear to 
have been ever much used, though a 
path from it leads down to the village 
of Silwin. It was open during my 
visit to the city in 1854, but in the 
spring of the present year I found it 
shut up. 5. Bab en-Neby Ddéd, “the 
Gate of the Prophet David,” “ the 
Zion Gate” of travellers, is on the 
summit of the ridge of Zion, and has 
in front of it a small Armenian con- 
vent, and an ‘irregular group of build- 
ings clustering round the tomb of 
David. Immediately within it to the 


_ Route 7.—Jerusalem—Interior. 


Sect. IT. 
rt., clinging to the city wall, are the 
wretched huts occupied by the lepers. 

Besides these there are 2 other 
gates, now walled up. The first is on 
the N. side, about half-way between 
the Damascus Gate and the N.E. 
angle of the city. It is a small portal 
in a tower, and has been shut ever 
since 1834. Natives call it Bab ez- 
Zahery—* the Gate of Flowers ;” but 
it is better known in books as “ the 
Gate of Herod.” The second is the 
well-known “Golden Gate” in the 
eastern wall of the Haram, to which 
I shall again refer (see § 40). The 
Arab name for it is Bab ed-Duhariyeh 
—* the Eternal Gate.” 


§ 8. Interior of the City.—The streets 
of Jerusalem are more regular than 
those of most Eastern cities, and, con- 
sidering the defective state of sanitary 
laws, they are not very filthy. The 
worst part in this respect is, of course, 
the Jewish quarter, where the traveller 
amid his wanderings will occasionally 
encounter “ the rankest compound of 
villanous smells that ever offended 
nostril.” To add to other abomina- 
tions, there is here a public slaughter- 
house, or rather yard, in which the 
blood and entrails of the animals are 
left to rot in the sun, and spread dis- 
ease and death around. The streets 
are everywhere narrow, and wretchedly 
paved, when paved at all. <A few of 
the leading ones run in what Easterns 
would probably call straight lines, and 
they serve as a key to the rest. One 
street —and it is generally the first 
trodden by the foot of western pilgrim 
—leads from the Yafa Gate eastward - 
past the open space beside the citadel, 
then down the side of the ridge and 
across the valley to the principal en- 
trance of the Haram, Bab es-Silsilah 
—* the Gate of the Chain.” This is 
called by Mr. Williams “ the Street of 
David,’ and we may adopt the name — 
for lack of a better. Another main 
street commences at the Damascus 
Gate, traverses the city from N. to S., 
passes near the eastern end of the 
Church of the Sepulchre, and through 
the principal bazaar, and terminates 


mae 2 


«palace, a large, straggling structure, 
j N. | 2 sharp turns, strikes across in front 


J ERUSALEM. 


a little eastward of the Zion Gate. 
Northward of the point where it in- 
tersects the Street of David it is called 
by Mr. Williams “the Street of St. 
Stephen,” and §8. of that point “ the 
Street of Zion.” These 2 streets divide 
the city into 4 quarters, which are 
useful for convenience of reference. 
The N.E, is the Muslem quarter, the 
N.W. the Christian, the 8.W. the Ar- 
menian, and the §8.E. the Jewish. 
The only building of any importance 
in the Muslem quarter is the Serai, or 


joining the Haram area on the 
From its flat roof, to which admission 
is readily obtained on application to the 
military governor, one gets the ve 
best view of the sacred enclosure an 
the numerous structures with which it 
is adorned. In the Christian quarter 
is the Latin convent, very conspicuous 
from it lofty position near the N.W. 
angle of the city. A little below it 
to the S.E. is the Church of the Se- 
ulchre, with its broken dome, which 
as cost Europe so much bload (see 
below, § 50); it is abutted on the W. 
by the great Greek convent. The Ar- 
menian convent, the largest building 
in the city, occupies a noble site on 
the summit of Zion. Near it on the 
N. is the new English church, simple 
and chaste in style. But by far the 
most remarkable and striking building 
in this quarter is the citadel, whose 
massive towers loom heavily over all 
around them. The Jewish quarter has 
no structure of note. It embraces the 
eastern declivity of Zion and the deep 
valley below—the very spot where the 
proud palaces of their ancientmonarchs 
once stood. Alas! how are the mighty 
fallen! How sad is the contrast 
between former glory and present 
misery! Now clusters of tottering 
houses, and crooked, filthy lanes, 
crowd the site of Solomon's gilded 
halls and Herod's marble courts; 
while squalid poverty crawls along 
where goid and diamonds glittered of 
ore | , 
y Two other streets may here be 
noticed as guides to the traveller. 
The first runs northward from the 
Street of David, passing between the 


The Haram. 


81 


Church of the Sepulchre and the 
Greek convent. It is called “ Patri- 
arch Street” by Mr. Williams, but 
“ Christian Street” by Frank residents. 
It contains a number of Frank shops. 
About the centre of it a narrow, 
crooked lane leads down eastward to 
the door of the Church of the Sepul- 
chre, and also to the fine old gateway 
of the palace of the knights of St. 
John. Another street commences at 
the: Latin convent, passes down 
through gloomy archways to the bed 
of the central valley, and then, after 


of the Serai to St. Stephen's Gate. 
This is the Via Dolorofa of the 
monks. 


§ 9.—The Haram with its spacious 
court constitutes a quarter of itself, 
almost equal in extent to one-fourth 
of the entire city. It is beautiful, 
too, as it ig extensive. The massive 
and lofty walls that surround and 
support it; the fresh green grass of 
the enclosure, dotted with dusky 
olives, tapering cypresses, and marble 
fountains and Mihrdbs; the broad 
elevated platform, encircled by airy 
arches, and diversified by richly carved 
pulpits and prayer-niches, and grace- 
ful miniature cupolas; and then the 
great mosk itself, with its noble dome 
rising up in the centre of all, bright 
and gorgeous as a vision of fairy-land, 
its enamelled tiles glittering in the 
sunbeams, and exhibiting all the hues 
of the rainbow wrought into patterns 
of wondrous intricacy and e i 
such is this splendid enclosure, alike 
the pride and ornament of the city, 
well worthy of its name, el-Haram 
esh-Sherif —“ the Noble Sanctuary.” 
It is so secluded, too, so still and 
solemn, that the very sight impresses 
one with a deep sense of its sacred- 
ness; and when, on a bright summer 
eve, dome and cupola, and fretted 
wall, give back the ruddy tint of the 
western sky, and white figures of veiled 
women steal spectral-like through the 
sombre foliage, and turbaned heads 
bow low in numerous prayer-niches, 
a scene is formed which no Eastern 

E 3 


S 


82 


poet ever surpassed in the most glow- 
ing conceptions of his fancy. 


It is the Kubbet es-Sukhrah—“ the 
Dome of the Rock ”—for such is the 
name of the central mosk—and its 
spacious area which give such an ex- 
quisite charm to every view of Jeru- 
salem from the Mount of Olives; and 
perhaps there is not one point where 
we see it to such advantage as that 
where the road from Bethany just 
tops the southern shoulder of the 
hill. Then the deep ravines of Hin- 
nom and Jehoshaphat are seén sweep- 
ing round the ridges on which the 
city stands: the Haram is in the fore- 
ground, perched high on the top of 
Moriah, supported by massive walls ; 
beyond are the white and grey build- 
ings of the city, undulating over the 
summits and sides of Zion, Akra, and 
Bezetha, and diversified with swelling 
dome and tapering minaret; while the 
whole is encircled by a picturesque 
zigzag line of battlements. This was 
the view which burst on the Saviour’s 
gaze on the day of His triumphal 
entry. 


Another remarkable feature im- 
presses itself on the traveller as he 
views the city from some commanding 
eminence. The walls seem 9 great 
deal too large for it. The buildings 
do not nearly fill up the space en- 
closed, so that if reminds him of an 
emaciated invalid decked out in his 
old dress. There is a group of gar- 
dens at the north-eastern angle ex- 
tending nearly to the Damascus Gate ; 
and there is another group at the 
north-western angle: at the south- 
western angle is the large garden of 
the Armenian convent; while an ex- 
tensive tract of waste ground—partly 
covered with heaps of rubbish, partly 
overgrown with prickly pear—skirts 
the whale southern wall from the 
Zion Gate to the Haram. Around the 
Church of St. Anne, too, and on the 
hillside N.W. of the Serai, are con- 
siderable vacant places. The latter 
was recently purchased by the Aus- 
trian government, who are now erect- 
ing on it a large hospice. And the 


kh 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Population, 


Sect. II. 


site of the once splendid palace of the 
knights of St. John, in the very centre 
of the city, is at present a green field. 
It is said the Sultan has given it as a 
bakhshish to the Emperor Napoleon. 
The Sultan can doubtless afford to 
give away far larger portions than 
this of his profitless territory, but the 
policy of such presents on such debate- 
able ground seems very questionable. 


§ 10.—The population of Jerusalem 
has been variously estimated at fronr 
10,000 to 30,000; and there are as yet 
no data for a correct census. The fol- 
lowing table gives as close an approx- 
imate to the true numbers as can be 
made under present circumstances. It 
was carefully compiled for me by one 
long resident in the city :— 


Population. 

Sects. Numbers. 
Muslems 4,000 
Jews .. 6,000 
Greeks .. 1,500 
Latins .. 1,200 
Armenians .. .. 280 
Syrians, Copts, and 

Abyssinians .. 150 
Greek Catholics ..° 110 
Protestants .. 100 

Total .. .. 13,340 


§ 11, Rexiarovus Sects.—The Mo- 
hammedans as a body are nativés of 
Syria. The few foreigners among them 
are Turks in the service of the govern- 
ment, and soldiers. There is a large 
number of Derwishes connected with 
the Haram, living in idleness on its 
ample revenues. These fellows make 
the city a hotbed of fanaticism, so 
that one cannot approach the pre- 
cincts of their den without being 
assailed with torrents of abuse. Yet, 
strange to say, for a considerable time 
after the visit of the Duke of Brabant 
in 1854, when infidel pilgrim was first 
permitted in modern times to tread 
one of the holiest shrines of Islamism, 
these fanatics agreed to admit all and 
sundry, even women, to the mosk, on 


Pr | . 


JERUSALEM, 


payment of a liberal bakhshish ; but of 
late this privilege has been withdrawn, 
and Frank gold has again lost its 
orthodoxy. 


§ 12.—The Jews are divided into 2 
great sects, the Sephardim and the 
Askenazim. The Sephardim are all 
of Spanish origin, having been driven 
out of that country in 1497 by Ferdi- 
nand and Isabella, Though they have 
been so long resident in the Holy 
City, comparatively few of them speak 
Arabic; a corrupt Spanish is their 
language. They are subjects of the 
Sultan, but are permitted to have 
their own Rabbinical laws. Their 
Chief Rabbi is called Khukham Bashi 
by the Turks; his Hebrew title is 
“the Head in Zion.” His princi 
interpreter has a seat in the Mejlis 
or “council” of the city. The finan- 
cial affairs of the community are in a 
sad state of embarrassment, and much 
dissatisfaction exists among the lower 
classes. The money collected abroad 
is not sufficient to pay the interest on 
their heavy debt, and there is conse- 
quently no provision made for the 
poor. Every Friday the servants of 
the synagogues go round among the 
few who are comparatively inde- 
pendent, and beg bread and other 
necessaries for the needy. The dis- 
ease and suffering occasioned by bad 
food, crowded dwellings, and scarcity 
of water, are beyond description, A 
great deal of this is doubtless owi 
to the dishonesty of the rabbis an 
the misappropriation of the funds. 
The Sephardim have 4 agogues, 
and number about 4000 souls, 


The Askenazim are Jews of German 
and Polish origin, whose numbers are 
continually augmented by fresh arri- 
vals. They are all foreigners, and 
subject only to the consular agents of 
their native countries. They were re- 
admitted into this country in the be- 
ginning of the present century under 


the wing of the Sephardim. They are 


wholly supported by contributions 
from Europe. The amount received 
by each person, young and old, poor 


Religious Sects. 


and rich, is:about 11. 10s. annually. 
Few of them have any inclination to 
work, and few of those who have can 
get employment. The Askenazim have 
a chief rabbi, but the only authority 
acknowledged by the government is 
the Khakham Bashi of the Sephardim. 

The whole Jewish community, being 
thus mainly supported by contribu- 
tions fram Europe, and being taught 
to regard those contributions as a kind 
of debt owing to them, spend their 
time in absolute idleness, the very 
drones of society. A few study the 
Talmud and controversial works in 
the reading-rooms, of which they have 
36, with a large paid staff of readers. 
There is more abject poverty and 
squalid misery existing among them 
than among any other class in this 
whole land. The news of the funds 
collected for them by their brethren 
in other countries, and of the large 
sums occasionally contributed for their 
relief by benevolent friends in Eng- 
land, attracts numbers of the needy 
and idle to the Holy City. Paupers 
are thus regularly increasing more 
than proportionally to the alms of the 
charitable, and human misery is there- 
fore actually aggravated by an unwise 
liberality. 


§ 13.—The Christians are divided 
into @ number of sects, which appear 
to_agree in little else but a cordial 
hatred "Or sel oth ex, I shall briefly 
describe them under their different 
names :—= 

The Greeks, or members of the 
“Holy Orthodox Church of the East,”’ 
as some people insist on calling them, 
number about 1500. They are all 
gatiye Arabs, speaking only the lan- 
guage of the country, and having their 
own secular married clergy. The 
Patriarch of Jerusalem is their head. 
By the Nicene Council (a.p, 325) 
the Metropolitan of Caesarea was ap- 

ointed spiritual chief of all Pales- 

ine. In the 5th century, however, 
Juvenal, bishop of Jerusalem, not only 
withdrew from the jurisdiction of his 
Metropolitan, but, invading the nghts 
of the Patriarch of Antioch, claimed 


83 


os 
‘ 


4 
\ 


t 
1 


J< 


Y 


84 


for himself patriarchal jurisdiction 
over a large part of Syria. The Coun- 
cil of Chalcedon confirmed his usurp- 
ation, giving him the title still held 
by his successors, and spiritua) supre- 
macy in all Palestine. The Patriarch 
of Jerusalem has subject to him 14 
sees, but some of them have now 
neither bishops nor flocks. He was 
long an absentee, residing at Constan- 
tinople ; but since the last election in 
1845 he has taken up his abode in 
the convent beside the Church of the 
Sepulchre. The patriarch, the supe- 
rior clergy, and all the monks, about 
60 in number, are foreigners, generally 
from the Greek islands, and speaking 
only the Greek language. They al- 
most all confine themselves to the 
narrow limits of their convents, and 
appear to have neither the inclination 
nor the ability to instruct the body of 
the people in religion or morality. 
Their annual exhibition of the “ Holy 
Fire” is a disgrace not only to the 
Church to which they belong, but to 
the very name of Christianity. Some 
little life has been infused into the 
~Greek community of late by Russian 
agents. Successful attempts are being 
made to educate the people, and a 
school of a high class is now esta- 
blished in the Convent of the Cross 
(see below, § 61). 

The Greeks have no less than eight 
convents and 5 nunneries in the city. 
The former are the Great Convent of 
Constantine, and those of Demetrius, 
aiheodorus, Michael, N icolas, Jo- 

annes, and 2 of St. George ; the latter 
are Basil, Cathérine- Beth ymius, and 
2 of the Virgin : they contain 35 nuns. 
In the vicinity of Jerusalem are also 
the following convents :—Ma&r S&ba, 
Mar Elias, ‘the Convent of the Na- 
tivity at Bethlehem, and the Convent 
of the Cross, 


§ 14..~-The Armenians are a branch 
of that Church and nation whose mem- 
bers are spread so widely over the 
various provinces of the Turkish em- 
pire. This Church early adopted the 
Monophysite doctrine, which, being 
pronounced heretical by the Council 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Religious Sects. 


| Sect. IT, 


of Chalcedon in a.p. 491, separated it 
from the churches of the East and 
West. In doctrine, ritual, and prac- 
tice, the Armenians have departed as 
far from apostolic purity and sim- 
plicity as any church in Christendom. 
The community.at Jerusalem num- 
bers about 280, who are all foreigners, 
generally engaged in commerce and 
trade. Their spiritual ruler is styled 
Patriarch of Jerusalem. His authority 
extends over Palestine and Cyprus, 
and he is subject only to the “ Catho- 
licus of Etchmiazine.” The Armenian 
convent on Mount Zion is the largest 
and richest in the city, and its ch., 
dedicated to St. James, one .of the 
most gorgeous. Near this convent is 
@ nunnery called ez-Zeitiny, and there 
is also a small convent outside Zion 
Gate in the hands of this sect. 


§ 15. The Georgians, Copts, and Sy- 
riangs.— The Georgians were at one 
time among the wealthiest and most 
influential of all the Chrstian sects 
in Jerusalem; but as the nation de- 
clined in its far-distant mountain- 
home, so also did its representative in 
the Holy City. The Greeks and Ar- 
menians ually bought up all their 
convents and property ; and now they 
are dependent upon the former for 
hospitality when they visit any of the 
sacred shrines. The Copts and Abys- 
sinians possess 2 convents,—one, called 
Deir es-Sultan, on the N. side of the 
Pool of Hezekiah; the other on the 
K. of the Church of the Sepulchre. 
The Syrians are under the protection 
of the Armenians, and have a small 
convent on Zion, known as the “ House 
of Mark,” occupied by a single priest 
and a deacon. These 3 sects together 
number about 150. 


§ 16. The Latins are principally se- 
ceders from the Greek Church, and 
are now said to amount to 1310. 
They are mostly natives of Syria, and 
speak only the Arabic language. Some 
of them derive a scanty subsistence 
by carving beads, crosses, and other 
trinkets for the pilgrims; while a few 


Sd 


wren 


JERUSALEM, 


more have their wants supplied from 
the alms of the great convent. It 
may not be out of place here to give a 
short sketch of the origin, extent, and 
resources of the Latin institutions in 
Jerusalem and other parts of Syria. 
On the introduction of the monastic 
system into Syria in the 4th cent., 
hundreds of enthusiastic pilgrims 
began to crowd to the hallowed scenes 
of Bible history, and cluster round 
them in cells and grots. Many of 
them came from countries in which 
the authority of Rome was paramount. 
Of these the most celebrated, and by 
far the most influential, was St. Jerome, 
who may be regarded as the main pro- 
moter of monastic institutions in Pa- 
lestine. On the death of his friend 
and patron, Damasus bishop of Rome, 
Jerome left that city for ever, and, 
after a few years’ wandering in the 
Kast, finally settled at Bethlehem in 
386. Paula, a noble Roman lady, who 
accompanied him to his hermitage, 
soon afterwards founded 4 convents. 
Others were added during subsequent 
centuries; but it was jn the time of 
the crusades that the Church of Rome 
was enabled to establish an active and 
wide-spread ecclesiastical agency in 


this land. Their head-quarters were 
,at first in the monastery of Sancta 


Maria de Latina, afterwards better 
known as the “ Hospital of the Knights 
of St. John” 6 By “Fyrom hence 
they Were driven, on the capture of 
the city by Saladin, and took up their 
abode on Zion, around the spot where 
the Muslem tomb of David now stands. 
This also was wrested from them, and 
they then bought the present convent 
of St. Salavdor, to which they removed 
in 1561. 

The remains of these ecclesiastical 
establishments are now well known 


-by the name of the Terra Santa con- 


vents. They are all in the hands of 
that class of the Franciscans called 
Fratres Minores Ab Observantia, and 
are under the superintendence of a 
“warden,” having the rank of abbot, 
and styled “Guardian of Mount Zion 
and Keeper of the Holy Land.” He 
is always an Italian, and is appointed 
by the Pope every 3 years. There is 


Religious Sects. 


85 


also a vicar or vice-warden similarly 
elected, and a Spanish procurator ap- 
pointed for life to manage the tempo- 
ralities. In 1847 a Latin Patriarch 
was appointed for Jerusalem, who has 
now spiritual oversight of the country, 
though not of the convents. There 
are at present 14 convents in Syria 
subject to the warden, namely, Jeru- 
salem, St. John in the Desert, Ramleh, 
Bethlehem, Yafa, ’Akka, Nazareth, Si- 
don, Beyrout, Tripoli, Larissa, Aleppo, 
Damascus, and Mount Lebanon. They 
contain about 100 monks, besides secu- 
lar priests and lay brethren. 

The Convent of St. Salyador_at Je- 
rusalem takes precedence of them all, 
and is the residence of the warden. 
It contains nearly 50 monks, one-half 
of whom are Italians, and the other 
half Spaniards. The whole institution 
is now mainly supported by the Pro- 


paganda. According to the Report of 


1844, the grant made to the Terra 
Santa convents was only 25,267 francs ; 
but the cost of maintaining them must 
be far above this sum. Dr. Robinson es- 
timates it at 40,000 Spanish dollars, or 
about 90007. per annum. The Latins 
are at present erecting a large con- 
vent, a church, and a palace for the 
Patriarch at the village of Beit Jala 
near Bethlehem. 


§ 17. Protestants.—The little Pro- 
testant community owes its existence 
mainly to the efforts of the “London 
Society for Promoting Christianity 
among the Jews.” The first mission 
of inquiry was sent to Palestine in 
1820; but it was not till 1824 that 
Dr. Dalton, the first missionary, took 
up his residence in Jerusalem. He 
died in 1826, shortly after the arrival 
of the late Rev. J. Nicolayson. After 
many difficulties had been overcome— 
such as those who have to deal with 
the Turks are but too well accustomed 
to—ground was at length bought for 
the erection of a Protestant ch. Some 
temporary buildings were commenced, 
and had risen to the height of one 
story, when the desth of the architect 
and the breaking out of war with 
Egypt put a stop to farther progress. 


86 


In 1841 an agreement was entered 
into by the English and Prussian go- 
vernments to establish a bishopric of 
the Angiican Church at Jerusalem, 
with a diocese embracing Mesopota- 
mia, Chaldea, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, 
and Abyssinia. It was stipulated that 
the bishop should be nominated alter- 
nately by the.crowns of England and 
Prussia, the Archbishop of Canterbury 
having the right of veto with respect 
to those nominated by the latter; that 
special care should be taken not to 
divide or interfere with the members 
of other churches represented at Jeru- 
salem, and more especially of the “ Or- 
thodox Church of the East ;” and far- 
ther that all German (Lutheran) con- 
gregations should be under the care 
of German clergymen ordained by the 
bishop, and under his jurisdiction. To 
rovide an endowment, the king of 
russia at once gave the large sum of 
15,0007., the annual interest of which, 
amounting to 600l., with 600l. more 
raised in England, constitutes the 
bishop’s income. Accordingly, in the 
autumn of 1841, Michael gulomon 
Alexander, a Jewish proselyte, was 
consecrated first bishop of the United 
Church of England and Ireland in 
Jerusalem. He died in 1845, and was 
succeeded by the present prelate, Sa- 
muel Gobat, formerly missionary in 
yssinia. 
: In 1842 the foundation-stone of the 
new church was laid by Bishop Alex- 
ander. The work continued to ad- 
vance till January, 1843, when the 
Turkish authorities interfered, insist- 
ing that if a ch. were erected at all 
4t must be attached to and dependent 
on a consulate. Such were the de- 
grading conditions imposed by the 
ultan upon England, though only 2 
years previously he had been indebted 
to English arms for the whole of 
Syria! Thus, however, the ch. was 
built, and thus it still stands—an ap- 
pendage to the consulate. The ser- 
vices now regularly performed in this 
ch. are as follows :-— 


On Sundays— 
In Judso-Spanish at 7 a.M. 
English... .. 10 x 
German .. 8 P.M. 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Religious Sects. 


Sect. IT. 


The afternoon German service alter 
nates with the service of the Lutheran 
Church of Prussia. On Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Fridays at 6 A.M. 
The service of the Church of England 
is read in Hebrew. 

The total number of Protestants in 
Jerusalem is about 100, presided over 
by the bishop, assisted by the Rev. H. 
Crawford, minister of Christ Church ; 
the Rev. Messrs. Hefter and Bailey, 
missionaries of the “ Jews’ Society ;” 
the Rev. Mr. Klein and Dr. Sandreczki, 
missionaries of the “ Church of Eng- 
land Missionary Society;” and the 
Rev. Pastor Valentiner, Prussian 
chaplain. 

In connexion with the Protestant 
missions are also the following insti- 
tutions: —1. An Hospital for Jews, 
containing 36 beds, under the manage- 
ment of Dr. Macgowan, aided by Mr. 
Atkinson, surgeon; Mr. Calman, 
house-steward ; a matron, a dispenser, 
and an assistant-dispenser. This ad- 
mirable institution has been of incal- 
culable benefit to the poor and suffer- 
ing Jews. Its manager unites the 
kindness of a true Christian with the 
skill of an experienced physician. 
2. A Diocesan School, founded in 1845 
by Bishop Alexander, and supported 
partly by the London Jews’ iety 
and partly by private subscriptions. 
The boys’ school is on the side of 
Zion, without the walls, in a building 
recently erected. Here there are some 
20 boarders and 14 day-scholars, under 
the charge of a head-master, an ae 
sistant English-master, and an assistant 
Arab-master. The instruction given 
is only elementary. The female school 
is in the city, and contains about 20 
day-scholars. 3. A House of Industry 
for converts and inquirers. 4. A School 
of Industry for Jewesses, under the 
management of Miss Cooper. This 
appears to be an excellent institution. 
5. A Prussian Hospital, and girls’ 
school, under the charge of 4 deacon- 
esses from Kaiserwerth, and a Hospice 
for travellers. 


§ 18.—The Climate of Jerusatem is 
on the whole salubrious ; and it might 


wanes ee, ,, no 


JERUSALEM. . 


be: much improved, within the walls 
at least, by a proper attention to clean- 
liness. Vegetable and animal matter 
to an enormous extent is thrown into 
the courts, streets, and waste places 
within the walls, and there allowed 
slowly to decay, and emit poisonous 
exhalations. Most of the houses, too, 
are destitute of proper sewerage, and 
badly ventilated; while not a few of 
them, especially in the Jewish quarter, 
are Gripping with damp, like so many 
grottoes. The cisterns and reservoirs 
also, both covered and uncovered, 
which abound in the city, are per- 
mitted to become stagnant and foul. 
These things combine to produce both 
malignant and intermittent fevers 
during the summer and autumn. 

The general temperature of the 
mountainous region on which the city 
stands does not differ much from that 
of the South of France; but there is 
a wide difference in other respects. 
The variations of rain, sunshine, and 
shade, which in a greater or less de- 
gree exist during the summer in most 
parts of Europe, are here unknown. 
From May to September is one un- 
interrupted blaze of sunshine. There 
is generally a breeze; but as during 
the day it is wafted across white ste- 
rile hills by which the sun’s rays 
are strongly reflected, it becomes like 
the “ breath of a furnace.” The rains 
begin about the middle of October. 
Snow often falls in January and Feb- 
ruary; and ice occasionally appears 
on the surface of the pools. The rains 
usually cease in April, though showers 
sometimes fall in May. The sirocco 


wind, which blows at intervals in 


' spring and the early part of summer, 
‘ is the most oppressive. 


This wind 
always comes from the §., and strik- 
ingly illustrates our Lord’s words in 
Luke xii. 35,—“ When ye see the south 
wind blow, ye say, There will be heat; 
and it cometh to pass.” 


8. HisTORICAL SKETCH OF JERUSALEM. 


The great interest attached to Jeru- 
salem is wholly connected with its 


EMistorical Sketch. 


87 


historical associations. There is little 
in the character of its antiquities, or 
in its situation, or in its present state, 
to attract attention; but when viewed 
in the light of, sacred history it is the 
most interesting spot on earth. Rightly 
to appreciate it, therefore, we must 
know its history. Every hill and vale, 
every fountain and grove, and almost 
every grot and stone has its story. 
Reference to separate incidents and 
associations will be made more intel- 
ligible to most travellers by a con- 
nected introductory sketch of the lead- 
ing facts in Jerusalem’s long history. 
This sketch will save the trouble of 
reference to larger works, and perhaps 
also prepare the way for a more minute 
and profitable examination of these 
works at a future time. 


§ 19. Early Notices of Jerusalem. 
—The name of Jerusalem signifies 
“ Foundation of Peace ;” and Josephus 
states in two places that the Salem of 
which Melchisedec was king occupied 
the same site as this city. There is 
nothing either in the position or his- 
tory of the place to render this state- 
ment doubtful, except the remark of 
Jerome that Salem was near Scytho- 
polis. I feel inclined, therefore, to 
adopt the view of the Jewish historian, 
perhaps because it gives additional in- 
terest to the city thus to connect it 
with one of the most remarkable cha- 
racters in the Bible (Gen. xiv. 17-20). 
Another event, which occurred a few 
years subsequent to Abraham’s inter- 
view with Melchisedec, was likewise 
enacted here. Upon a mountain in 
the “land of Moriah” Abraham was 
commanded to offer up his son Isaac 
in sacrifice to God (Gen. xxii. 2); 
upon that same mountain: David sacri- 
ficed to the Lord, and (ote the =k 
of the avenging angel (1 on. xxi.)-; 
and upon it, in the temple built by 
Solomon, the “glory of God” was 
for many years visibly manifested 
(2 Chron. iii. 1, and vii. 1). The name 
is strikingly applicable to the spot— 
Moriah signifies “ Chosen of God.” 

Nearly 5 centuries after the trial of 
Abraham’s faith his posterity obtained 


ey 


' x. 16; 1 Chron. xi. 4). 


88 


possession of the “ Land of Promise ;” 
and Adonizedec king of Jerusalem 
was one of those native princes who 
most valiantly resisted the invaders. 
One cannot but remark the resem- 
blance of this man’s name to that of 
Melchisedec,—the former signifying 
“Lord of Righteousness,” and the 
latter “ King of Righteousness.” The 
city was then called Jebus, because it 
was inhabited by the Jebusites, the 
descendants of a son of Canaan (Gen. 
And this war- 
like tribe held their stronghold on 
Zion till the time of David, whose first 


‘expedition after he was proclaimed 


king over all Israel was against this 
castle; and the first man who entered 
it was Joab, his captain and nephew 
(1 Chron, xi, 4-8; B.c. 1048). 


§ 20. Jerusalem under the Jews.— 
David erected his palace on the ruins 
of the Jebusite castle, and called the 
city after his own name. Thirty-seven 
years after the capture of Jebus on 
Zion, Solomon laid the foundations of 
the Temple on the opposite hill of 
Moriah, on the “ threshing-floor of 


Oman the Jebusite (2 Sam. xxiv. 16, 


17). Jerusalem thus became, and ever 
after remained, the sacred and civil 
capital of the Jewish nation. There 
their earthly monarch dwelt in his 
palace on Zion, and there their hea- 


venly Monarch dwelt, too, in His holy 


temple on Moriah (1 Kings ix. 3; Ps. 
Ixviii. 16). It became henceforth the 
place where the loyal Israelites as- 
sembled thrice every year to observe 
their great feasts; it became the point 
to which every Israelite turned his 
face in prayer, from whatever country 
he dwelt in; and it still is to the poor 
outcast Jew “the joy of the whole 
earth.” 

Jerusalem attained its greatest pitch 
of power during the reign of Solomon. 
Tribute was brought to it by the sur- 
rounding nations; gold and _ spices 
were conveyed to it from India and 
Africa; and distant monarchs jour- 
neyed to it to see its grandeur and 
hear the wisdom of its ruler. When 
the kingdom was rent by the folly of 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Historical Sketch. 


Sect. IT. 


Rehoboam the capital lost much of 
its importance. It passed through 
many a change of fortune, until, 460 
years after its capture by David, it 
was plundered and burned by Nebu- 
chadnezzar king of Babylon. During 
53 years the Israelites remained cap- 
tives, and their capital a ruin. Then 
Cyrus, having ascended the throne of 
the Medo-Persian empire, released the 
captives, and sent them back to re- 
build their city and temple. When 
the foundations of the Temple were 
laid, “the people,” writes the historian 
Ezra, “ shouted for joy; but many of 
the Levites who had seen the first 
Temple wept with a loud voice” (iii. 
11,12). Owing to the misrepresenta- 
tions of their enemies, especially the 
Samaritans, the Jews were retarded 
in their work, and 20 years elapsed 
ere the Temple was completed. 

From this time until the extension 
of the Grecian empire over Western 
Asia by Alexander the Great, Jeru- 
salem enjoyed comparative tranquil- 
lity, the high-priests exercising both 
civil and ecclesiastical aythority, sub- 
ject to the Persian satraps. The way 
in which the city was saved from the 
wrath of Alexander has already been 
stated (Prelim. Rem.—History), and 
the reader is referred to the Introduc- 
tory Historical Sketch of Syria and Pa- 
lestine for an account of the leading 
events till the time of Herod the 
Great. Herod was of Idumean origin, 
and obtained the title of king of 
Judsa from Rome in the year B.c. 38. 
He was ambitious, unscrupulous, and 
cruel; and he ruled the poor Jews 
with an iron sceptre, while he shocked 
their religious feelings by the intro- 
duction of idolatrous rites and the 
erection of heathen temples. But, 
strange as it may seem, his greatest 
architectural work was the rebuilding 
of the Temple at Jerusalem. It was 
commenced in the 18th year of his 
reign, and the principal parts were 
finished in about 9 years, though the 
whole work of adorning the structure 
was not completed till long after his 
death, and about 4 years previous to 
Christ’s public ministry. Hence the 
statement of the Jews,—* Forty and 


JERUSALEM, 


six years was this temple in building ” 
(John ii. 20). The buildings were 
then so strikingly beautiful, that even 
the disciples of our Lord led Him out 
to a commanding point on the side of 
Olivet that He might see and admire 
them. It was then Jesus uttered the 
fearful prediction,—* See ye not all 
these things? Verily I say unto you, 
There shall not be left here one stone 
upon another that shall not be thrown 
down ” (Matt. xxiv. 1,2). The modern 
traveller who looks into the enclosure 
of the Haram can see at a single glance 
how literally these words’ have been 
fulfilled. Not a stone of the Temple 
now remains, and its very site is a 
subject of dispute. Forty years after 
the crucifixion of our Lord without 
the gates of Jerusalem, and after its 
deluded people had madly cried, “ His 
blood be on us and on our chil- 
dren,” the Romans stormed the city, 
massacred more than a million of the 
-Jews, and razed the Temple to the 
ground, never again to be rebuilt. 


§ 21. Jerusalem under the Romans.— 
There is no evidence that the Roman 
general set a ban upon the city, or 
made the plough to pass over it. 
Titus ordered that the whole of the 
western wall, with the 3 great towers 
of Hippicus, Phasdelus, and Mariamne, 
should be left standing, to serve the 
double purpose of a protection for the 
garrison and a memorial of the strength 
of fortifications Roman valour had 
won. A number of Jews clung to the 
_ruins, “and for 50 years after its 
destruction,” as Jerome informs us, 
“there still existed remnants of the 
city.” About the year 130-the em- 
peror Adrian visited Palestine, and, 
observing that the Jews were plotting 
to throw off the Roman yoke, he 
banished most of them to Africa, and 
fortified Jerusalem to serve as a check 
on the whole nation. These very pre- 
cautions, however, were the means of 
exciting the Jews to united rebellion. 
No sooner had the emperor returned 
to Rome than, under the celebrated 
leader Bar-Cochba, “Son of a Star,” 
they seized the Holy City, with 50 


Mistorical Sketch. 


89 


other fortified places, and a great 
number of villages. But their success 
was of short duration. A large army 
marched against them, and they were 
driven from fortress to fortress, fight- 
ing with all the energy of despair, 
until at last they concentrated their 
forces in the city of Bether. Here 
the war was brought to a close (a.D. 
139) by the storming of their strong- 
hold. Those who escaped the sword 
of the conqueror were sold into slavery 
—many of them at the Oak of Mamre, 
where Abraham so often pitched his 
tent. A decree was then promulgated 
forbidding all Jews to approach Jeru- 
salem. 

Jerusalem was rebuilt under Adrian, 
and in the 20th year of his reign re- 
ceived the name Alia Capitolina— 
“the former after the prenomen of 
the emperor, and the latter in honour 
of Jupiter Capitolinus, whose fane 
now occupied the place of the Jewish 
temple.” Thus was the capital of 
Israel transformed into a pagan city, 
with Jupiter as its patron-god. Statues 
of Jupiter and Venus we set up over 
the spot on which now stands the 
Church of the Sepulchre. From this 
period till the time of Constantine 
little is known of the history of Jeru- 
salem. Christianity appears to have 
been tolerated in it, but nothing more. 
Eusebius has given a dry list of the 
bishops who ministered there from 
the time of Janies till the reign of 
Adrian; and, if we can even depend 
on its accuracy, it is manifest that 
their authority extended only over the 
few converts who resided in the half- 
ruined city. At the destruction of 
Jerusalem by Titus the Christians 
had fled to Pella, and there is no very 
definite account of their return. After 
the time of Adrian the bishops were 
selected from among the Gentile con- 
verts; but little is known of them be- 
yond their names and the persecutions 
to which some of them were exposed. 
Early in the 3rd cent. Jerusalem began 
to attract the attention of Christian 
pilgrims, and their numbers rapid! 
increased as Christianity advanced. 
When the Christian religion was esta- 
blished by Constantine, the difficulties 


90 


that had beset the way of pilgrims 
were removed, and a new stimulus 
was given to them by the example of 
Helena, the emperor’s mother, who at 
the age of nearly 80 years visited the 
“Holy Places,” and gave orders for 
the erection of splendid churches on 
the supposed sites of the “ Nativity ”’ 
in Bethlehem and the “Ascension” 
on Olivet (a.D. 326). 

Another “ Holy Place” was soon 
afterwards discovered—or recovered, 
as some will have it—which has since 
oceasioned no little commotion and 
bloodshed in Christendom,—I refer to 
the “ Holy Sepulchre.” The noblest 
and bravest princes of Europe waged 
a fierce war during nearly 2 centuries 
to preserve it from the hands of the 
Infidel; and now, even in our own 
enlightened age, a war scarcely less 
fierce is waged by its defenders to 
rescue it from the doubts of the 
sceptic. Fortunately the pen and not 
the sword is the weapon they wield. 
The alleged discovery of spots so 
sacred, and the founding of structures 
so gorgeousm@attracted crowds of the 
pious and superstitious from every 
Christian land. The effect of these 
pilgrimages on the topography of the 
country, in such an age, may be easily 
imagined. The resident clergy were 
naturally desirous, like their represent- 
atives now, of satisfying the expecta- 
tions and gratifying the wishes of the 
numerous pilgrims: holy sites were 
asked for, sought for, and soon either 
found or invented. Under Constan- 
tine the Jews were again permitted to 
visit Jerusalem ; and Julian the Apos- 
tate afterwards gave them permission 
to rebuild their Temple. They began 
to lay the foundations in a.p. 362; but 
they were soon stopped, and driven in 
terror from the spot, as contemporary 
authors inform us, by globes of flame 
bursting from the earth, and other 
manifestations of Divine disapproba- 
tion. Again, on the death of Julian, 
they were forbidden to enter the city, 
except once a-year to weep over the 
stones of the Temple. Then probably 
commenced that affecting practice 
which the traveller can still witness 


| | every Friday at the “Place of Wailing.” 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Historical Sketch. 


Sect. IT. 


I have already stated that Jerusalem 
was raised to the dignity of a Patri- 
archite by a decree of the Council of 
Chalcedon (§ 13). In a.p. 529 Justi- 
nian became emperor. His mania for 
sacred architecture is well known. 
There is scarcely a large city in the 
empire but has some relic of it. Jeru- 
salem was not overlooked. A ch. was 
built in honour of the Virgin, which 
may still be seen, much changed of 
course, in the southern part of the 
Haram enclosure. The Muslems call 
it the “ Mosk el-Aksa.” In the be- 
ginning of the following century the 
Persians, under Chosroes II., havin 
cap Antioch and Damascus, took 
jJerusalem by storm, massacred thou- 
‘sands of the clergy, monks, nuns, and 
‘Christian inhabitants, razed the 
Church of the Sepulchre to its found- 

tions, and carried off the Patriarch 

ith the “ true Cross” into captivity. 
The ch. was soon rebuilt; and ere 
many years had elapsed the old Patri- 
arch returned and entered the city in 
triumph, carrying the “ Cross” on his 
shoulder, 


§ 22. Jerusalem under the Moham- 
medans.—But the restoration of the 
city to the sole dominion of the Chris- 
tians was of short duration. In the 
year 636 the Muslem troops, under 
the Khalif Omar, appeared before the 
walls; an er a long siege the in- 
habitants surrendered, on condition 
that their lives, their property, and 
their churches should be secured to 
them. On entering the city, Omar 
inquired for the site of the Jewish 
temple, and, being led to the place on 
Moriah where the celebrated “ Rock ” 
projects above the ground, he gave 
orders for the erection of a mosk, 
which was soon afterwards succeeded 
by the well-known Kubbet es-Sukhrah 
—“ the Dome of the Rock.” Muslem 
authors give, by way of history, a 
number of absurd legends about the 
way in which the true site was dis- 
covered: in this respect, however, 
Christian authors cannot afford to 
laugh at them. The mosk, as it now 
stands, appears to have been built by 


JERUSALEM. | Ancient Topography. 91 


the Khalif Abd el-Melek in the year 
686. The Church of the Virgin, 
erected by Justinian, as it stood within 
the sacred enclosure of the ancient 
temple, was changed into a mosk, and 
called el-Aksa; and the whole area 
was remodelled and adorned. 

From this period till the middle of 
the 10th cent. Jerusalem remained 
subject to the Khalifs of Damascus 
and Baghdad, who generally respected 
the rights of the Christians, and did 
not interfere with pilgrims, But about 

\ A.D. 967 the Fatimiteg, who had long 
, ruled Kairwin (Cyrene), extended 
’, their conquests over Egypt and Syria, 
/ and removed the seat of their govern- 
' ment to Cairo. On gaining Jerusalem 
' they oppressed the Christians, burned 
\the Church of the Sepulchre, and 
‘ committed the Patriarch to the flames. 
Very soon, however, they found it 
more profitable to taz than to exter- 
minate the Christians; and they were 
‘able to replenish an exhausted trea- 
sury by the enormous exactions levied 
on pilgrims. Matters remained in this 
state till the accession of el-Hakim, 
the third Fatimite Khalif, a wild and 
visionary fanatic, well known as the 
spiritual prince of the Druzes. About 
the year 1010 he began a fearful per- 
secution of the poor Christians. The 
Church of the Sepulchre was razed to 
its foundations, and attempts made to 
destroy the sepulchre itself. The ch. 
was again rebuilt, and completed in 
1048. The influx of pilgrims to Jeru- 
salem was at this time very great,—in 
fact, a visit to the sepulchre of our 
Lord was looked on as a sure, and 
almost the only, way to heaven. 
Bish6ps, nobles, and princes assumed, 
like the meanest of their followers, 
the palmer’s weeds, and staff, and 
scrip. In 1035 Robert duke of Nor- 
mandy, father of William the Con- 
queror, set out for the Holy City, and 
by piety and charity gained the re- 
spect of the Muslems. He died on 
his return at Nicea. 

In the middle of the 11th cent. the 
Seljukian Turks extended their con- 
quests over Western Asia; and, ac- 
cording to the feudal system, the con- 
quered provinces were bestowed as 


rewards on distinguished chiefs. In 
the year 1083 a leader called Ortok 
thus acquired possession of Jerusalem. 
The situation of the Christians now 
became deplorable. Every species of 
cruelty was perpetrated on both pil- 
grims and residents. In the midst of 
these calamities Peter the Hermit 
visited the city. Hastening back to 
Rome, he told, at the feet of the Pope, 
the harrowing tale. His zeal and elo- 
quence roused alike the indignation 
and the chivalry of Europe, and a 
Crusade was. organised to wrest the 
Holy Sepulchre from the hands of the 
Infidel. Antioch was taken by the 
crusaders in 1097, and Jerusalem 2 
years afterwards. Their first care was 


‘to purify the churches and shrines 


which the Muslems had defiled. They 
then rebuilt the Church of the Sepul- 
chre with great splendour. The city 
remained in the hands of the Chris- 
tians for 88 years, when.it was cap- 
tured by Saladin; and 32 years after- 
wards the Muslems pulled down the 
whole walls, with the exception of 
those of the citadel and the Haram, 
lest the city should again fall into the 
hands of the Franks. Thus it re- 
mained for 10 years, and was then de- 
livered over by treaty to the crusaders 
(a.D. 1229). An attempt was made a 
few years subsequently to rebuild the 
walls, but the Emir of Kerak attackcu 
and captured the city. Four years 
later the Christians again obtained 
possession, but in a few months (a.p. 
1283) they were driven out for the \ 
ast time ; and the Holy City has ever 
since remained under the sway of the 
haughty Muslem. 


4, ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY, 


§ 23.—The first object of the Bib- 
lical scholar, and indeed of every man 
who travels for improvement, on ar- 
riving in Jerusalem, will be to make 
himself thoroughly acquainted with 
the site, the position, extent, and gene- 
ral features of the several hills and 
valleys so often referred to in the his- 


92 


tory—in short, to photograph the 
whole picture on his mind through 
the lens of his own eye. It throws an 
inexpressible charm around every in- 
cident in Scripture, when, on readin 
it, we can call up, with all the vivid- 
ness of reality, the scene where it was 
enacted — when every mention of a 
name summons the place before the 
mind’s eye as by magician’s wand. 
To secure this perennial pleasure a 
careful and methodic examination is 
necessary on the spot. We must con- 
nect each place with its story, and fix 
them together in the memory. 

First, then, take your map, and go 
to the most prominent points of view 
around the city, such as the N.W. 
corner of the wall, where from the 
battlements a fine panoramic view is 
gained : the ascent to the top of the 
wall must be made from the Y4fa 
Gate. Nexttothe N.E. corner; and it 
is as well to go to it from the former 
along the wall. Nextto St. Stephen’s 
Gate, from the top of which we can 
overlook the Haram area. Then to the 
S.E. angle of the Haram outside, to 
see the Kidron and Siloam; and after 
this to the southern brow of Zion, pass- 
ing round the tomb of David, so as to 
command the lower sections of the 
Tyropeon and Hinnom. Afterwards 
go to the top of the Mount of Olives, 
~ and, sitting down on some projecting 
rock, study every feature in that won- 
drous panorama. Here, as at the other 
stations, spread out the map before 
you, and identify every hill and valley, 
‘and every prominent building, not only 
in the city itself, but in its environs. 
An hour thus spent on Olivet will 
give the stranger a clearer idea of Je- 
rusalem than days of indiscriminate 
wandering (see this view described, 
§ 32). If the ‘ General Topography’ 
given above (§ 5) be glanced at along 
with the map, the way will be pre- 
pared for a profitable study of the de- 
tails of the ‘ Ancient Topography,’ 
which, however, should always be read 
beforehand, and then compared on the 
spot. 

Having thus mastered the general 
outline of the site and its environs, 
the traveller may next trace the lines 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Ancient Topography. 


Sect. I. 


of the ancient walls as he finds them 
described under a subsequent head 
(§ 35-38) : the ‘ Antiquities’ may then 
be taken up, in whatever order seems 
most convenient. Here, for the sake 
of facility of reference and historical 
arrangement, I class them under the 
2 general heads of Jewish and Chris- 
tian. Having given these words of 
advice, I proceed with the Ancient 
Topography, which, I may remark, the 
reader win oo well to study in con 
nexion wi e general topo y 
of the modern city (§ 5). poem 


§ 24. Mount Zion.—Of the several 
hills on which Jerusalem was built, 
Zion was the largest, and in many re- 
spects the most interesting. It occu- 
pies the whole south-western section 
of the ancient site, extending consi- 
derably farther S. than the opposite 
ridge of Moriah and Ophel. The 
western and southern sides rise ab- 
ruptly from the bed of the Valley of 
Hinnom, and appear to have originally 
consisted of a series of rocky preci- 
pices rising one above another like 
huge stairs; but now they are par- 
tially covered with loose soil and the 
débris of buildings which time has 
thrown down from above. The 
southern brow of Zion is bold and 
prominent; and its position, separated 
from other heights and surrounded by 
deep valleys, makes it seem loftier 
tharf any other point in the city, though 
it is in reality lower than the ground 
at the N.W. corner of the wall. The 
elevation of the hill above the Valley 
of Hinnom, at the point where it pends 
westward, is about 150 ft.; and above 
the Kidron, at En-Rogel, 300 ft. On 
the S.E. Zion slopes down in a series 
of cultivated terraces, steeply, though 
not abruptly, to the site of the “ King’s 
Gardens,’ where Hinnom, the Tyro- 
poon, and the Kidron unite. Here 
and round to the S. the whole decli- 
vities are sprinkled with olive-trees, 
which grow luxuriantly among the 
narow strips of corn. The scene can- 
not but recall the words of Micah the 
Morasthite, spoken 26 centuries ago: 
—‘* Zion shall be ploughed like a 


JERUSALEM. 


field” (Jer. xxvi. 18). On the E. the 
descent to the Tyropoon is at first 
gradual, but as we proceed northward 
to the modern wall it becomes much 
steeper; and about 300 yds. within 
the wall, directly facing the S.W. 
angle of the Haram, there is a preci- 
pice of naked rock from 20 to 30 ft. 
high. The declivity is here encum- 
bered with heaps of filth and rubbish, 
thickly overgrown in places with the 
cactus or prickly-pear. The Tyro- 
poeon was anciently much deeper at 
this point than it is now; it has been 
filled up by the ruins of the bridge, 
the temple wall, and the palaces of 
Zion. ‘The best view of the eastern 
slopes of Zion and the southern sec- 
tion of the Tyropceon is obtained from 
the top of the wall in descending from 
Zion Gate to the Dung Gate. I was 
particularly struck with the interest- 
ing view before me when standing on 
a projecting angle of the wall near 
the place where the aqueduct from 
Solomon’s Pools enters the city. Pass- 
ing down from hence, I followed the 
course of the aqueduct for some dis- 
tance; and then turning more to the 
rt., through thickets of cactus, I ex- 
amined the cliff above-mentioned and 
' the whole declivities on this side of 
Zion. 

The limits of Zion for so far cannot 
be mistaken; on the northern side, 
however, they are very far from being 
so well defined. But a careful study 
of the topographical notices of Jo- 
sephus, combined with an examina- 
tion of the whole site of the city, such 
as I trust the reader has already com- 
pleted, can leave little doubt on the 
mind as to the true boundary of Zion 
on the N. It will not, of course, be 
expected here that I should enter into 
any lengthened review of the different 
opinions entertained by writers re- 

arding this section of the Holy City. 
t is enough to say that I have read 
them all; that I have carefully sur- 
veyed the ground on two different oc- 
casions—once since the greater part 
of the present work was written; and 
that I have studied with care the de- 
scriptions of Josephus. Thus, while 
the theories and facts of others have 


Mount Zon. 


93 


not been overlooked, I have been able 
to form my conclusions independent 
of them. Kind friends will please re- 
member, however, that I lay no claim 
to infallibility, or anything approach- 
ing to it; I only state honest opinions, 
which have been honestly come by. 
From the several descriptions and 
incidental notices of Josephus the fol- 
lowing facts may be gathered :—That - 
the “ Upper City,” built on Zion, was 
surrounded by ravines; that it was 
separated from the “ Lower City” 
(Akra) by a valley called the Tyro- 
poeon; that upon a crest of rock 30 
cubits high, on the northern brow of 
Zion, stood 3 t towers—Hippicus, 
Phasaélus, and Mariamne; that the 
wall enclosing the Upper City on the 
N. ran by these towers to a place 
called the Xystus, and joined the 
western wall of the temple area; that 
there was a gate in that western wall, 
northward of this point of junction, 
opening into Akra; that the Xystus 
was near to and commanded by the 
W. wall of the temple area, though 
not united to it, and that the royal 
palace adjoined and overlooked the 
Xystus on the W., while it was also 
attached to the great towers above- 
mentioned; and, lastly, that both 
Xystus and palace were connected at 
their southern end by a bridge with 
the temple area (see Jos., B. J., v. 4; 
vi. 6, 2; ii. 16, 3; Ant., xv. 11, 5). 
The site of the temple area being 
well known (§ 40), and the remains 
of the ancient bridge undoubtedly dis- 
covered (§ 40), the positions of the 
Xystus and the palace can be seen at 
a glance. The former occupied the 
western side of the Tyropaon, extend- 
ing from about the Street of David 
(§ 8) to the remains of the arch; 
while the latter lay along its western 
side, covering the summit of the hill 
quite to the brow or Hinnom ; and 
joining it on the N. were the t 
towers and the wall. “ 
But Josephus states that Zion and 
Akra were built “ fronting each other, 
separated by a valley, at which the 
rows of houses terminated.” This 
valley must, in part at least, have 
bounded Zion on the N.; and yet it is 


94 


scarcely distinguishable in the present 
day. A long ridge, as has already 
been stated, sweeps along the eastern 
side of Hinnom, extending from the 
Tomb of David northward far beyond 
the modern city wall; but if we care- 
fully examine this ridge from the top 
of the pasha’s house, or some com- 
manding spot near the N.W. angle of 
the Haram, we distinctly observe a 
considerable depression in it, com- 
mencing at the Yafa Gate and run- 
ning down eastward in the line of the 
Street of David. And if we go to the 
Yiafa Gate and walk down that street, 
we see that the ground rises abruptly 
on the rt. and gently on the 1.; we 
are, therefore, in a depression or val- 
ley, and the northern end of Zion is 
on ourrt. At the Yafa Gate the tra- 
veller will also notice the massive 
walls and deep fosse of the citadel. 
One of the towers especially claims 
attention from the antique masonry of 
the lower part, consisting of very large 
stones bevelled like those of the temple 
walls. Recent researches have shown 
that this tower, as well as that at the 
N.W. angle of the citadel, is founded 
on @ scarped rock which rises about 
40 ft. above the bottom of the fosse. 
This is unquestionably that “ rocky 
crest” on which, Josephus informs us, 
the 3 great towers on the northern 
brow of Zion were founded. Here 
then are data sufficiently clear on 
which to determine the northern limits 
of Zion. 

On the‘summit of Zion, towards its 
western brow, there is a level tract 
extending in length, from the citadel to 
the Tomb of David, about 600 yds. ; 
and in breadth, from the city wall to 
the eastern side of the Armenian con- 
vent, about 250 yds. A much larger 
space, however, was available for build- 
ing purposes, and was at one time 
densely occupied. Now not more 
than one-half of this space is enclosed 
by the modern wall, while fully one- 
third of that enclosed is taken up 
with the barrack-yards, the convent- 

rdens, and the waste ground at the 
epers’ huts. All without the wall, 
with the exception of the cemeteries 
and the cluster of houses round the 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Ancient Topography. 


Sect. IT. 


Tomb of David, is now cultivated in 
terraces, and thinly sprinkled with 
olive-trees (Mic. iii. 12). 

Zion was the first spot in Jerusalem 
occupied by buildings. Upon it stood 
the stronghold of the Jebusites, which 
so long Tofied the Israelites, and was 
at last captured by king David (Num, 
xiii, 29; Josh. xv. 63; Jud. 1. 21; 
2 Sam. v. 5-8). Upon it that monarch 
built his palace, and there for more 
than a thousand years the kings and 
princes of Israel lived and ruled 
(2 Sam. v. 9, &c.). In Zion, too, was 
David buried, and 14 of his successors 
on the throne were laid near him in 
the family tomb (1 Kings ii. 10; xi. 
43; xiv. 31, &c.). Zion was the last 
spot that held out when the Romans 
under Titus encompassed the doomed 
city. When the rest of Jerusalem was 
in ruins; when the enemy occupied 
the court of the prostrate temple, the 
remnant of the Jews from the walls of 
Zion haughtily refused the terms of 
the conqueror, end perished in thou- 
sands around and within the palace 
of their princes. 

The city which stood on Zion was 
called successively by several names. 
It was probably the Salem of Melchi- 
sedec (comp. Gen. xiv. 18, with Ps, 
Ixxvi. 2); then it became Jebus under 
the Jebusites, so called from a son of 
Canaan (Gen. x. 16; 1 Chron. xi. 4, 5); 
then the “ City of David,” and Jeru- 
sulem (2 Sam. v. 7). Josephus calls 
it the “Upper City,” adding that it 
was known also in his day as the 
“Upper Market.” 


§ 25. The Tyropeon.—This valley, 
according to Josephus, separated Zion 
from Akra on the XN. and from Moriah 
and Ophel on the E. It thus swept 
round 2 sides of the “ Upper City,” 
or Zion. The exact position of the 
head of the Tyropceon is one of the 
vexed questions of Jerusalem topo- 
graphy. It touches indirectly the au- 
thenticity of the Holy Sepulchre, and 
some would, therefore, drag it any- 
where rather than make it subservient 
to sacrilege. Josephus is our only 
authority, and his notices are few and 


JERUSALEM, 


brief; they are, however, so clear in 
pointing out the position of the Tyro- 
poon relative to other places, that the 
identification of it resolves itself into 
@ question of interpretation. The 
subject has assumed such an important 
aspect in the eyes of antiquarians of 
fame and learning, that I may be ex- 
cused for giving Josephus’ words, and 
then applying them. I would also 
request the reader to bear in mind 
what has already been said in defining 
the northern limits of Zion. 
Jerusalem, says Josephus, “ was 
built, one quarter facing another, upon 
two hills, separated by an intervening 
valley, at which over against each 
other the houses terminated”’ (eis hv 
érdAAnrAa KaréAnyov ai oixta:): and 
again,—* The valley of the Tyropwon, 
which, I have said, divided the hill of 
the upper town from that of the lower, 
extended as far as Siloam.....a 
fountain whose waters are sweet and 
copious ” (B.J.,v.4,1). He also tells 
us that the “ other hill, called Akra, 
which sustained the lower city,’’ lay 
opposite to Mount Moriah, from which 
it was separated by “ another, broad 
valley ;” and further, that the "whole 
city, situated on these 2 hills, “ lay 
over against the Temple in the manner 
of a theatre” (Ant., xv. 11,5). The 
simple and common-sense interpreta- 
tion of these passages leads us to look 
for the head of the Tyropceon imme- 
diately along» the northern brow of 
Zion. I have already referred to the 
depression still existing here; but in 
its present state it would scarcely seem 
to answer to the description of Jo- 
sephus. A gjose examination, how- 
ever, proves that it was originally 
much deeper than it is now. At the 
angle formed by the Street of David 
and Christian Street is the old Greek 
convent of St. John the Forerunner, 
within which may be seen a chapel 
recently exposed by excavation, and 
nearly 30 ft. below the level of the 
adjoining street; yet this chapel has 
doors and windows, showing that it 
was at one time entirely above ground. 
Here, then, is the Tyropoon. Along 
the northern brow of Zion once ran 
the city wall; on the crest of the hill 


Tyropacn— Akra, 


95 


stood those huge towers which even 
the Romans considered unequalled for 
strength and grandeur ; adjoining them 
on the inside was the palace— the 
débris of walls, towers, and portions 
of the palace, the law of gravity would 
force into the valley; to this has been 
superadded the rubbish of 18 centuries. 
What wonder, then, if the ravine 
(pdpayt) has well-nigh disappeared ? - 
Commencing at the Yiafa Gate, the 
Tyropeean runs eastward for some 500 
yds., and then, sweeping round the 
N.E. corner of Zion, it turns south- 
ward between that hill and Moriah, 
and continues about 800 yds. farther 
till it joins the Kidron. At its mouth 
is a pool of sweet living water, still 
called Siloam. The Tyropoon is not 
mentioned in Scripture. Some have 
thought that it is the Millo of 2 Sam. 
v. 9, which the Septuagint renders 
Akra, and which Josephus seems to 
call the “Lower City.” The word 
Millo, ‘“ Fulness,” is used very inde- 
finitely. It may perhaps mean that 
portion of the “ Lower City’ which 
lay in the valley between Akra and 
Zion on the one side, and the temple 
mount on the other, and which was 
separated from Zion by a wall in 
Josephus’s time; for after Titus took 
the temple, and before he took Zion, 
we are told that “the Romans, having 
driven the brigands from the ‘lower 
town,’ burned all as far as Siloam ’’— 
that is, the whole of the town which 
lay in the valley of the Tyropwon. 


§ 26. Akra.—Akra is called by 
Josephus the “ Lower City,” and the 
“Lower Market,” to distinguish it 
from Zion the “Upper City.” It is 
from this author alone we derive all 
our information regarding it, and his 
words are as follows:—“ The other 
hill, called Akra, sustaining the lower 
city, was gibbous (dauglxupros ‘gib- 
bous,’ ‘two-horned,’ or ‘sloping on 
both sides’).” It was separated from 
Zion by the Tyropcon, and the two 
hills were so placed fronting each 
other that the rows of houses ter- 
minated opposite each other at the 
intervening ravine. “Over against 


96 


this (Akra) was a third hill, naturally 
lower than Akra, and_ formerly 
separated from it by another broad 
valley. But afterwards, during the 
sovereignty of the Asmonsans, they 
threw earth into this valley, desiring 
to connect the city with the temple ; 
and levelling the summit of Akra, 
they made it lower, so that the temple 
might appear above it.” (B. J.v.4, 1). 
Is insert another important pas- 
sage: “In the western parts of the 
enclosure (of the temple) stood four 
gates; one leading over to the royal 
palace, the valley being intercepted 
to form a passage ; two leading to the 
suburb; and the remaining one into 
the other city (Akra), being distin- 
guished by many steps down into the 
valley, and. from this up again upon 
the ascent; for the city lay over 
against the temple in the manner of a 
theatre.’’ (Ant. xv. 11, 5.) 

Taking these words in their plain 
sense, we conclude that Akra was a 
hill situated between two valleys, 
one of which, called the Tyropoeon, 
separated it from Zion, and the other, 
a “broad valley,” separated it from 
the temple mount. And this, taken 
in connexion with what-has already 
been stated regarding Zion (§ 24) and 
the Tyroposon (§ 25), compels us to 
identify Akra with the rocky ridge 
which extends from the N.W. angle of 
the modern city, past the Church of the 
Sepulchre, towards the western side of 
the Haram, embracing a great part 
of the present Christian quarter. The 
best general view of this rocky ridge 
is obtained from the top of the 
governor's house. The slopes of its 
sides are also very distinctly seen in 
several of the streets—in going up, 
for example, from the Yiafa gate to 
the Latin convent, and descending 
again from the convent to the Da- 
mascus gate; and also in the quarter 
around the Tekiyeh or Hospital of 
Helena. This mdge is accurately 
described by Josephus as “curved on 
both sides,” or “ gibbous,” as it falls 
off on the N. into the valley at the 
Damascus gate, and on the 8. into the 
Tyropoon. And it is thus situated 
between two valleys—the Tyropoon, 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Ancient Topography. 


Sect. IT. 


which separates it from Zion, and the 
“broad valley,” coming from the 
Damascus gate, which separates it 
from Moriah. 

But Josephus states, as has been 
seen, that the broad valley which 
separated Akra from the temple was 
“filled up” in the time of the Asmo- 
neans. To understand how far this 
“filling up” was carried we must 
compere it with the other passage 
from the ‘ Antiquities,’ in which he 
says that the way leading from the 
western gate of the temple area to 
Akra descended “ by many steps down 
into the valley, and from this up again 
upon the ascent.” The valley there- 
fore was only partially filled up; it 
was probably very deep at first, but 
was made practicable for a road by 
the Asmonzans. The ancient gate 
leading to Akra probably corresponded 
in position with the present Bab el- 
Katanin, “Gate of the Cotton Mer- 
chants” (see § 40), between which 
and the south-eastern extremity of 
the ridge of Akra there is still a broad 
depression or valley. 


§ 27. Moriah.—The position of this 
hill cannot be questioned. The sub- 
structions of the platform on which 
the temple was erected yet remain, 
and bear incontestable evidence not 
only to the general position of Moriah, 
but also to its extent. It is not a 
separate hill, but a section of the 
ridge which extends along the western 
side of the valley of 5 ehoshaphat. 
Originally there seems to have been a 
mound of rock in the centre of this 
ridge, breaking down abruptly on 
every side, so as to leave on its 
summit but a narrow platform, scarcely 
sufficient, as Josephus distinctly says, 
for the altar and the sanctuary : this 
was called Moriah. When the temple 
was founded the rock was somewhat 
lowered, and a large platform con- 
structed around it, supported in part 
by massive walls of masonry filled up 
internally with stones and earth; and 
in part toward the 8. by heavy piers 
and arches, The platform still exists, 
and every one will recognise it in the 


J ERUSALEM. 


area of the Haram. Near the centre 
of that area, beneath the dome of the 
great mosk, the natural rock projects 
above the ground, and is regarded with 
deepest veneration by the Muslems, 
because, as they believe, it is the spot 
where the Holy Altar once stood. It 
is from this “rock,” Sukhrah, the mosk 
takes its name— Kubbet es-Sukhrah, 
“the Dome of the Rock.” 

This ancient platform is separated 
from Zion by the Tyropeeon, and 
from Akra. by the other broad valley 
coming down from the Damascus 
gate. ‘These are its western limits. 
On the N. it is not now separated 
from the continuation of the ridge, 
except in part by the deep reservoir 
or trench generally called Bethesda. 
On the E, the ground breaks down 
suddenly, and almost precipitously, 
from the wall to the bed of the 
Kidron, nearly 150 ft. below. On the 
upper part of this declivity, adjoining 
tne Haram wall, is a Muslem cemetery. 
On the S. the ridge continues, but is 
considerably lower and narrower, and 
was anciently called Ophel. 

Moriah was the mount on which 
Abraham built the altar and laid the 
wood to sacrifice his son Isaac. Here 
he heard those cheering words from 
Heaven: “By myself have I sworn, 
saith the Lord, for because thou hast 
done this thing, and hast not with- 
held thy son, thine only son: that in 
blessing I will bless thee, and in 
multiplying I will multiply thy seed 
as the stars of heaven, and as the 
sand which is upon the sea-shore; 
and thy seed shall possess the gate of 
his enemies; and in thy seed shall all 
the nations of the earth be blessed ; 
because thou hast obeyed my voice.” 
And Abraham called the name of 
that place Jehovah-Jireh. (Gen. xxii. 
9-18. See below, Rte. 21.) On the 
summit of Moriah Ornan the Jebusite 
had his threshing-floor, and there he 
was employed with his four sons 
threshing wheat on that eventful day 
when Jerusalem was threatened with 
destruction. The angel of the Lord 
came, and stood by the threshing- 
floor, “having a drawn sword in his 
hand stretched out over Jerusalem.” 

[Syria and Palestine.] 


YO 


Moriah— Ophel. 


97 


Ornan and his sons saw him, and hid 
themselves in terror—perhaps in the 
very cave we still see below the 
Sacred Rock. David saw him too 
from the opposite hill of Zion; he 
and the elders of Israel, clothed in 
sackcloth, prostrated themselves be- 
fore the Lord; and then, at the com- 
mand of Gad the prophet, he hasted’ 
to the summit of the sacred mount to 
build an altar, and. offer sacrifices. 
David bought the threshing-floor for 
600 shekels of gold, built an altar, 
“offered burnt-offerings and peace- 
offerings, and called unto the Lord; 
and He answered him from heaven 
by fire upon the altar of burnt-offering. 
And the Lord commanded the angel, 
and he put up his sword again into 
the sheath thereof.” (1 Chron. xxi. 
14-27.) On this rock Solomon after- 
wards erected the temple (2 Chron. 
iii. 1). At the N.W. angle of the 
temple-court was built at a later date 
a strong fortress called Antonia. 


§ 28. Ophel or Ophla.—The section 
of the ridge which extended south- 
ward from Moriah to the junction of 
the Tyroposon and Kidron, at the pool 
of Siloam, was called Ophel. The 
top of the ridge is broad; but there is 
a rapid descent towards the S., some- 
times by rocky breaks, or terraces, till 
at last it terminates in a cliff almost 
overhanging the pool. The whole is 
now carefully cultivated in terraces 
like Zion, and is planted with olives 
and other fruit-trees. Its northern 
end, at the base of the Haram wall, is 
nearly 100 ft. lower than the top of 
Moriah; and from thence to its ter- 
mination is about 520 yds.; the 
breadth of its summit from brow to 
brow is abovt 100 yds. near the 
centre. 

Ophel was included in the city of 
Jerusalem from a very early -period— 
probably from the time of Solomon. 
We read in 2 Chron. xxvii. 3, that 
Jotham king of Judah “built much 
on the wall of Ophel”—the wall 
having been thrown down some time 
previously by the king of Israel. 
This was only a little more than two 

. ¥ 


98 


centuries after Solomon; and we 
scarcely think there had been oy 
extension of the city in the interval. 
Some fifty years later it was more 
strongly fortified by Manasseh (2 
Chron. xxxiii. 14). After the return 
of the Jews from captivity Ophel was 
enclosed by the wall built under 
Nehemiah’s direction, and inhabited 
by the Nithinims, or temple servants. 
(Neh, iii. 26, 27.) 


§ 29. Bezetha.— This hill is not 
mentioned in the Bible, but Josephus's 
account of it is clear and full. “The 
hill Bezetha was separated from An- 
tonia; and, being the highest of all, 
it was built up adjoining to a part of 
the new city, and alone overshadowed 
the temple on the north.” (B. J., v. 
5,8.) Referring again to the way and 
time in which this hill was first oc- 
cupied, he thus writes: “The city 
overflowing with inhabitants gradu- 
ally crept beyond the walis; and the 
people, incorporating with the city the 
quarter north of the temple close to 
the hill, made a considerable advance, 
insomuch that a fourth hill, which is 
called Bezetha, was also surrounded 
with habitations. It lay over against 
Antonia, from which it was separated 
by a deep fosse purposely excavated 
to cut off the communication between 
the hill and the foundations of An- 
tonia, that they might be at once less 
easy of access, and more elevated. 
And thus the depth of the fosse added 

atly to the height of the towers. 
his new-built part is called in our 
language Bezetha, which being inter- 
preted in the Greek tongue would be 
lis—‘New City.’ (B. J.v. 4, 

2.) Hence it appears that Bezetha 
was a high hill, close on the N. side 
of Antonia, separated from it by a 
deep artificial trench; and that there 
was no other hill besides it which 
intercepted the view of the temple 
from the N. Now any one examining 
the ground in connexion with these 
notices, and remembering that the 
citadel of Antonia lay at the N.W. 
angle of the temple area, or about the 
place where the Governor's house now 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Ancient Topography. 


’ Sect. IT. 


stands, must admit that Bezetha can 
be none other but the hill extending 
northward from this place towards the 
grotto of Jeremiah. And any one 
who looks toward Jerusalem from the 
N. will at once see how accurate is 
Josephus'’s description that Bezetha 
formed on this side the only obstruc- 
tion to the view of the temple. From 
the ridge of Scopus above the Tombs 
of the Kings the dome of the great 
mosk is just seen over the hill; but 
when we begin to descend it is soon 
wholly shut out from view. 

Bezetha is a broad irregular ridge 
extending N. by W. from the Haram. 
Its eastern side descends by steep de- 
clivities, and occasional offsets of rock, 
into the valley of Jehoshaphat. On 
its western side is the broad valley 
which extends up to the Damascus 
gate, and continues in the same line 
400 or 500 yds. more through the 
olive-groves beyond, but is here both 
wider and shallower—in fact, a mere 
depression. The whole ridge is divided 
by a shallow valley, beginning on the 
NE. of the grotto of Jeremiah, and 
running down to the so-called pool of 
Bethesda. A good view of this feature 
of Bezetha is gained from the city 
wall in walking round from the Da- 
mascus to St. Stephen's gate. The 
ridge on the western side of this valley 
is high with steep sides. Its northern 
part, now covered with a Muslem 
cemetery, and containing also the 
grotto of Jeremiah, is detached by a 
broad, and apparently artificial cutting, 
from the part within the modern wall. 
This cutting was probably one of the 
great quarries from which the stones 
were taken for the temple, and was 
afterwards deepened to gain a stronger 
and more commanding site for the 
present ramparts. Traces of these 
excavations can be seen on the spot; 
and a view of the whole ridge from 
the N.W. angle of the city wall shows 
how well the outline of the severed 
portions of the ridge correspond. The 
summit of this ridge within the walls 
is covered with low, half-ruinous 
buildings, and crowned by the Mosk 
of Derwishes, the traditionary palace 
of Herod. A piece of waste ground 


_ 


JERUSALEM. 


on its south-western declivity has 
recently been purchased by the 
Austrian government, who are now 
erecting upon it a fine hospital. Some 
curious rock-chambers were brought 
to light in sinking the foundations. 
On the western side of this central 
valley, between it and the Kidron, 
is another ridge narrower and lower 
than the former. Near its southern 
extremity is the fine old Gothic church 
of St. Anne, recently given to the 
French emperor. (See § 56.) Imme- 
diately without the city wall, on the 
north, a deep fosse has been cut 
across it in the solid rock; and a little 
beyond this place it rises very consi- 
derably, so as to form a rocky mound. 
The greater part of Bezetha without 
the walls is now cultivated and co- 
. vered with olive-groves. The total 
breadth of the ridge where it joins 
the Haram is about 450 yards, but -it 
gradually expands toward the north 
to more than double that breadth ; 
while its whole length, so far as it 
was occupied by buildings, is about 
1000 yards. 
The time at which Bezetha bega 
to be occupied by buildings is not 
precisely given; but there can be 
little doubt that under Herod the 
Great the city increased in extent as 
well as in splendour, and that then 
the circuit of the old walls was found 
too confined for the population. Jo- 
sephus says “the city, overflowing 
with inhabitants, gradually crept be- 
yond the ramparts.” Much, indeed 
most, of the new town must thus have 
existed in the time of our Saviour, 
although it was not until 8 years 
after the crucifixion that Herod 
Agrippa surrounded it with a wall. 
This fact has an important bearing 
upon the authenticity of the Church 
of the Sepulchre, which it will be ob- 
served is far within the modern walls. 
§ 30. The Valley of Hinnom (in 
the Hebrew Ge Hinnom).—Such - is 
the name usually given to this valley 
in the Old Testament, though it often 
occurs in the fuller form “ Valley of 
the Son of Hinnom.” (Josh. xv. 8.) 
Its present name is Wady Jehennam, 
which is evidently derived from the 


Bezetha. 99 


Hebrew. It commences on the west 
of the city (see § 5); its upper part 
resembling a large shallow basin, in 
the centre of which, 700 yards from 
the Yafa gate, is the “ Upper Pool,” 
or “Gihon.” From this pool its course 
is nearly 8.E. for 630 yards, to the 
bend opposite the Yafa gate, where 
its breadth is about 100 yards and its 
depth 44 ft. It now turns south be- 
tween Zion on the one side and a 
rocky acclivity on the other, and at 
290 yards is crossed by the arched 
aqueduct from Solomon's Pools. At 
73 yards farther is the “Lower Pool,” 
now cailed Birket es-Sultan. This 
is directly below the south-eastern 
angle of the city wall, which forms a 
fine object overhead, crowning the 
steep brow of Zion. The embank- 
ment which bounds the “pool” on 
the south is 197 yards farther down. 
Across it runs a branch path from the 
Hebron and Bethlehem road, which 
leads up the hill-side, near the New 


English Diocesan School, to the Zion | 


Gate. At 140 yards below the pool 
the valley again turns eastward, con- 
tinuing about the same breadth, but 
increasing rapidly in depth. The bot- 
tom and sides are cultivated where 
practicable, and planted with olive- 
trees. Towards the end of its course 
it expands somewhat, and falls into 
the Kidron 922 yards below the last 
bend. The scenery of the lower part 
is picturesque and wild—the hill on 
the south rising up in broken irre- 
gular cliffs, filled with excavated 
tombs, and supporting here and there 
on a ledge a few stray olive-trees. 
Here, high up on this rugged bank, is 
the reputed site of ‘Aceldama. (See 


§ 48. 

The first mention of Hinnom in the 
Bible occurs in the description of the 
boundary line between Judah and 
Benjamin—* And the border passed 
toward the waters of En-Shemesh, 
and the goings out thereof were at 
En-Rogel”” (now the “Well of Joab” 
at the junction of Hinnom and the 
Kidron) ; “and the border went up by 
the valley of the son of Hinnom unto 
the south side of the Jebusite; the 
same is Jerusalem; and the border 

F 6 


100 


went up to the top of the mountain 
that lieth before the valley of Hinnom 
westward, which is at the end of the 
valley of Rephaim (Giants) north- 
ward.” (Josh. xv. 7, 8; see also xviii. 
16, 17.) A piece of more careful and 
minute topography than that here 
given could scarcely be imagined. 
But this valley has obtained a wider 
celebrity from its connexion with the 
rites of Baal and Molech practised 
under the idolatrous kings of Judah. 
Jeremiah thus writes regarding the 
abominations by which Jerusalem was 
polluted : “They have built the high 
places of Tophet, which is in the val- 
ley of the son of Hinnom, to burn 
their sons and their daughters in the 
fire.” (vii. 31.) And Jerome describes 
Tophet as a pleasant spot in the val- 
ley of Hinnom, with trees and gardens 
watered from Siloam. It must, there- 
fore, have been at the mouth of the 
valley; and a more appropriate place 
could not have been selected round 
the city: the deep retired glen; the 
wild cliffs around; the bare rocky 
mountain sides above —all seem 
adapted for deeds of blood. Of what 
mad fanaticism and savage cruelty 
was this spot the scene! One cannot 
but shudder as, sitting in the opening 
of some dark tomb, or beneath the 
gnarled boughs of some old olive, he 
reads its fearful history. According 
to the rabbins, the statue of Molech 
was of brass, with the body of a man 
and the head of an ox. The interior 
was hollow and fitted up with a large 
furnace by which the whole statue 
was easily made red hot. The child- 
ren to be sacrificed were then placed 
in its arms, while drums were beaten 
fo drown their cries. Imagination 
can picture the monster ready for a 
victim, surrounded by priests, and 
band of drummers, and an excited 
multitude; while here and there a 
Hebrew mother is seen pale and hag- 
gard, straining her devoted infant to 
her bosom for the last time. These 
fearful rites, strange to say, were first 
established by Solomon, who built a 
high place for Molech, a god of the 
Ammonites, on the “right hand of 
the mount” of Olives—probably on 


Route '7.—Jerusalemn—Ancient Topography. 


Sect. IT. 


the southern brow overlooking this 
valley (1 Kings xi. 7; 2 Kings xxiii. 10, 
13); and from that period this wor- 
ship continued uninterruptedly, either 
there or in Tophet, until Josiah de- 
filed both places: “He defiled To- 
pheth, which is in the valley of the 
children of Hinnom, that no man 
might make his son or his daughter to 
pass through the fire to Molech.... 
And the high places that were before 
Jerusalem, which were on the right 
hand of the Mount of Corruption, which 
Solomon the king of Israel had builded 
for Ashtoreth the abomination of the 
Zidonians, and for Chemosh the abo- 
mination of the Moabites, and for 
Milcom (or Molech) the abomina- 
tion of the children of Ammon, did 
the king defile. And he brake in 
pieces the images, and cut down the 
groves, and filled their places with 
the bones of men.” (Id.) The place 
was thus made ceremonially unclean, 
so that no Jew could enter it; and 
this appears to have been the reason 
why the valley was made a public , 
cemetery, a8 we may conclude from 
the words of Jeremiah: ‘ Wherefore 
behold the days come when it shall no 
more be called Tophet, nor the valley 
of the Son of Hinnom, but the valley 
of Slaughter; for they shall bury in 
Tophet till there be no place.” (vii. 
32; see also xix. 6-15.) The multi- 
tudes of tombs in the adjoining cliffs, 
and along the side of the Mount of 
Olives, show that the prophet’s words 
ea) to the letter. (See 

8. 

Molech signifies “king” or “ruler ;” 
and Milcom is the same root with 
the pronoun “their king.” This idol 
seems to have been identical with the 
Phoenician god Baal, to whom we | 
know children were offered in sacri- 
fice at Carthage. (Jer. xix. 5; xxxii. 
35.) The worship of this deity, by 
causing children to pass through the 
fire, was first formally introduced by 
Solomon, yet the Israelites had been 
occasionally addicted to it from the 
time of their journey through the 
wilderness. (Lev. xx. 1-5; xviii. 21 ; 
Ez. xx. 23-31.) “It was doubtless in 
allusion to this detested and abomi- 


JERUSALEM. 


nable fire that the latter Jews applied 
the name of this valley, Gehenna, to 
denote the place of future punishment, 
or the fires of hell.” 


§ 31. The Brook Kidron, or Valley 
of Jehoshaphat.—It may be as well to 
inform the reader at the outset that 
the latter and now the common name 
of this valley is of modern origin, and 
has been adopted from a fanciful in- 
terpretation of a passage of Scripture. 
The prophet Joel speaks of the “ valley 
of Jehoshaphat,” in which God will 
judge the heathen for their oppression 
of the Jews; but the name seems to 
be metaphorical, intended only to ex- 
press the act to be performed—Jeho- 
shaphat signifies “ Jehovah judgeth.” 
On the ground that this must be the 
valley alluded to, the name Jehosha- 
phat was applied to it as early as the 
time of Eusebius, and has since been 
continued by Jew, Christian, and Mus- 
em. 

14 m. N.W. of the Damascus Gate 
there is a slight depression in the 
broad ridge, and this is the head of 
the Kidron valley. The sides of the 
depression, and the whole surround- 
ing region, are whitened by the broad, 
jegged tops of the limestone rock, 
which everywhere projects above the 
scanty soil; and almost every projec- 
tion has been excavated, partly as a 
quarry, and partly to form the facade 
ofa tomb. The number of rock-tombs 
at this place, and the extent and 
beauty of some of them, impress the 
stranger, perhaps more than anything 
else, with the wealth and splendour 
of the ancient Jewish capital. The 
valley runs for about 4 m. directly 
towards the city; it is shallow and 
wide, dotted with green corn-fields, 
with here and there a few old olives 
among the gray rocks. It then sweeps 
round eastward, and in another 4 m. 
is crossed by the great northern road. 
On the east side of this road, and 
southern bank of the valley, stands an 
old wely with a ruined khan beside 
it; and about 200 yards 8.E. of this 
are the Tombs of the Kings. (See 
§ 48.) A little to the W. of the wely 


Brook Kidron. 


101 


are three large white mounds, which 
have latterly attracted attention in 
consequence of a theory propounded 
by somebody, that they are composed 
of ashes, and that the ashes are those 
of the sacrifices offered up in the tem- 
ple! The theorists have had the 
ashes analyzed, and pronounced to be 
chiefly of animal origin. Yet still 
two objections naturally occur to 
one—first, if these be indeed the ashes 
of the temple, they were conveyed 
to a needlessly great distance; and 
second, the mounds are precisely si- 
Inilar in appearance to the accumula- 
tions from the ashes and débris of 
soapworks which we see at Nabulus ; 
and until very lately it was the uni- 
versal belief that they were formed 
by the deposits from the soapworks 
in the city. 

The bed of the Kidren is at this 
lace about 4 m. distant from the 
bity Gate. It continues on the same 
course about + m. farther, and then 
turning S. opens up into a wide basin. 
Here it is crossed by the road to 
Anathoth. As it advances southward 
the rt. bank—the side of Bezetha— 
becomes higher and steeper, with 
occasional precipices of rock; while 
on the 1. the base of the Mount of 
Olives ually projects, narrowing 
the valley. Opposite St. Stephen’s 
Gate the depth is full 100 ft., and the 
breadth not more than 400 ft. The 
olive-trees which are thinly sprinkled 
over its whole extent, here become 
much more abundant, forming a little 
shady grove; their massive trunks, 
too, hollowed out and half decayed, 
with the heavy gnarled boughs, have a 
venerable look, and leave the impres- 
sion of remote antiquity. The spot 
has a solemn—almost a sacred aspect ; 
it is so completely shut out from the 
din of the city, from the view of 
public roads, and from the notice and 
interruptions of wayfarers. May not 
this be the site of that garden to 
which Jesus “ofttimes resorted with 
his disciples” for prayer and medita- 
tion; and which was the scene of His 
agony and of His betrayal? (John 
xviii. 1-12.) . 

A zigzag path descends the steep 


102 


bank from St. Stephen's Gate, crosses 
the bed of the valley by a bridge, and 
branches at the angle of the enclosed 
Garden of Gethsemane. One branch 
leads a little to the 1., up a depres- 
sion in the Mount of Olives, to the 
village on the top. This is the “ way 
of the wilderness” by which Vavid 
fled from Absalom. (2 Sam. xv. 23.) 
Another branch keeps more to the rt., 
and also leads to the village. A third 
branch runs below the garden, and, 
ascending the hill diagonally, passes 
round to Bethany. This is the road 
of Christ’s triumphal entry. (Matt. 
xxi. See below, Rte. 8.) Another path 
follows the valley down to Siloam. 
Below the bridge the valley con- 
tracts still more, and here traces of a 
watercourse begin to appear. 300 yds. 
farther down, the hills on each side 
rise precipitously from the torrent- 
bed, which is spanned by a single 
arch. On the I. is a singular group of 
tombs hewn out of the cliff, compris- 
ing those of Absalom, Jehoshaphat, 
and St. James; while on the rt., 150 ft. 
overhead, towers the massive wall of 
the Haram. The ravine continues, 
narrow and rugged, 500 yds. more to 
the fountain of the Virgin, situated in 
a deep cave on the rt. The village 
of Silwan, the ancient Siloam, is now 
seen on the 1.; its houses in one place 
clinging to the rocky cliff, and in 
another half-buried in old excavated 
tombs. 400 yds. below the fountain 
the Tyropwon comes in on the rt., 
descending in graceful terraced slopes, 
fresh and green from the waters of 
the “ Pool of Siloam.” The valley is 
now wider, affording a level tract for 
cultivation, covered with little beds of 
cucumbers, melons, and onions. Here 
of old were the “* King’s Gardens” to 
which Nehemiah refers (iii. 15). They 
extend down to the mouth of Hin- 
nom; and about 100 yds. below this 
oint is the well of Job, the ancient 
n-rogel. (Josh. xv. 7. See § 48.) 
The total length of the valley from its 
head to this fountain is m. From 
hence it runs in a winding course 
through the wilderness of Judma, 
past the convent of St. Saba, where it 
1s called Wady er-Raheb, “ the Monk's 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Ancient Topography. 


Sect. IT. 


Valley ;’’ below the convent it takes 
the name Wady en-Nar, “the Valley 
of Fire,” and falls into the Dead Sea, 
not far from its NW. corner, about 
14 m. from Jerusalem. 

The brook Kidron (or “ Wady Ki- 
dron,” as the Hebrew }i07D $n3 might 
be more appropriately rendered) is 
first mentioned in the Bible in con- 
nexion with the flight of David during 
the rebellion of his son Absalom. 
** He d over the brook Kidron, 
tow: the way of the wilderness” 
(2 Sam. xv. 23). It is frequently re- 
ferred to in the subsequent history of 
the Holy City; and from one rather 
obscure passage (2 Kings xxiii. 6) it 
would seem that a portion of it was 
used by the Jews as a burying-ground 
from a very early period. But be this 
as if may, there can be no doubt that 
now the greatest privilege the dying 
Jew can wish for is that his bones 
be laid in the valley of Jehoshaphat ; 
and the whole of the left bank, far up 
on Olivet, is literally paved with the 


white tombstones of countless de- , 


scendants of Abraham, who have jour- 
neyed from the ends of the earth to be 
buried in this favoured spot. Here, 
they believe, the Messiah will stand at 
the Resurrection, and summon from 
the dust all flesh. Those buried in 
the valley will rise at once from their 
tombs; while those who have been 
buried in other lands and climes will 
have to make a toilsome and agon‘*i» ~ 
journey under-ground to this spot. The 
Muslems have borrowed the trad. —_., ° 
or belief; and they show a projecting 
stone in the east wall of the Haram, 
on which the Prophet is to sit super- 
intending the events of that great 
y. 


§ 32. The Mount of Olives, now 
called Jebel et-Tur, is situated imme- 
diately beyond the Kidron, on the east 
of, or as it is expressed in the Bible, 
“before” Jerusalem (1 Kings xi. 7). 
It is before one’s eyes from almost 
every part of the city ; and forms the 
most striking object in every view 
around it. It.is more a ridge than a 
mount, graceful in outline and deli- 


Cee 


JERUSALEM. 


cate in colours, especially when seen 
from the brow of Zion on an evening 
in early spring. In the centre is a 
rounded top, crowned by the little vil- 
lage of Tir, with its tapering minaret. 
The sides descend gently and uni- 
formly, north and south, to two other 
rounded summits of about equal alti- 
tude, and then break down more ra- 
pidly to the level of the adjoining 
ridges. The face of the hill is all 
streaked horizontally with strips of 
green and gray—the former the ter- 
races of corn, the latter the supporting 
walls and ledges of rock; while the 
whole is dotted with rounded trim- 
looking olive-trees, from whence the 
well-known name. The atmosphere 
is generally so transparent that one 
imagines, as he looks from Zion, that 
Olivet rises immediately from the 
side of the Haram area. In fact, this 
is the great defect in Syrian land- 
scapes—the perspective is not well 
brought out, owing to the absence of 
that haze which gives such a charm to 
some of the scenes in more northern 
climes, 

The summit of the Mount of Olives 
rises 175 Paris ft. above the city, 
and, being only half a mile distant, it 
affords one of the most commanding 
and interesting views of Jerusalem and 
its environs. From the top of the 
minaret beside the ch. of the Ascen- 
sion is the best point, though a view 
in some respects more beautiful is ob- 
tained from the terraced roof of a little 
solitary tower a few hundred yds. to 
the N.W. he best time for this 
view is the early morning, when the 
valleys are still in shade, and the 
bright morning sun, lighting up the 
various hills, throws them into bold re- 
lief. This isa spot, I may again repeat, 
which every stranger should visit very 
soon after his arrival, with map in hand 
to identify every hill, and valley, and 
prominent building; and to impress 
their peculiar features and relative 
positions deeply on his mind. (See 
above, § 23.) Taking our stand then 
on the narrow balcony of the minaret, 
we look down the shelving side of 
Olivet into the dark, bare glen of the 
Kidron, sweeping from the distance 


Mount of Olives. 


103 


on the rt. away down to thel. The 
eye follows it till it is joined by an- 
other dark ravine, coming in from be- 
hind a high ridge to the westward. 
That ravine is Hinnom, and that ridge 
Zion. On the 1. bank of the Kidron 
we can just observe through the olive- 
trees the white Pointed top of Absa- 
lom’s pillar, and the fiat gravestones 
of the Jewish cemetery, and farther 
to the 1. the gray excavated cliffs and 
houses of Siloam. In the foreground 
beyond the ravine is the beautiful 
enclosure of the Haram—the octa- 
gonal mosk with its noble dome in the 
centre, occupying the site of Ornan's 
threshing-floor and Solomon's Tem- 
ple; the fiagged platform around it; 
and then a grassy area with its olives 
and cypresses encircling the whole. At 
the l-hand extremity is the mosk el- 
Aksa, easily distinguished by its peak- 
ed roofs and dome—formerly the ch. 
of St. Mary. Beside the enclosure at 
the rt-hand corner is a prominent 
group of buildings, with a tall minaret 
adjoining them. This is the Pasha’s 
residence, and the site of the fortress 
of Antonia. The massive ancient ma- 
soury at the southern angle of tho 
wall is very conspicuous; and so like- 
wise is the double-arched gateway in 
the side, generally known as the 
“ Golden Gate,” now walled up. Far- 
ther to the rt., north of the Haram 
area, is St. Stephen’s Gate, and the 
white path winding up to it from the 
bottom of the Kidron at the Garden 
of Gethsemane. Northward of the 
gate, along the brow of the valley, runs 
the city wall, formidable-looking in 
the distance with its square towers. 
To the right of the Haram, a broad 
irre ridge extends northward, 
thinly inhabited, interspersed with 
gardens, and crowned by a mosk and 
minaret. This is Bezetha. The low 
ridge of Ophel ‘is on the opposite side 
of the Haram, sinking down rapidly 
into the bed of the Kidron behind Si- 
loam ; it contains no buildings, but is 
thickly sprinkled with olives. It can 
now be seen how these three hills, 
Bezetha, Moriah, and Ophel, form one 
long ridge. Behind them is a valley, 
dividing the city from north to south, 


104 


and falling into the Kidron just above 
its junction with Hinnom. At its 
northern end, hid by Bezetha, is the 
Damascus gate ; and the southern sec- 
tion of it be ond the Haram was an- 
ciently called the Tyropceon. 

On another very prominent ridge 
lies the western section of the city. 
To the rt. is Akra rising to an angle, 
near which we distinguish the large 
white buildings of the Latin convent, 
reminding one of a factory; below 
them, a little to the 1., are the two 
domes and heavy square tower of the 
Church of the Sepulchre; and sitill 
farther to the l.a green field, marking 
the site of the ancient palace of the 
Knights of St. John. Akra is now 
the Christian quarter of the city. To 
the 1. is Zion, still the most prominent 
of all the hills, Its northern limits 
are distinctly marked by the massive 
towers of the citadel, rising up from a 
slight depression in the ridge. Close 
to these, but presenting a striking 
contrast in its fresh look, is the Eng- 
lish Church; farther to the 1. is the 
Armenian convent, a vast irregular 
mass of houses, with a little dome in 
the midst of them. The Jewish quar- 
ter occupies the steep face of the hill, 
its half-ruinous houses hanging one 
above another. Without the wall on 
the south is a group of buildings, 
amid which we see a white dome and 
high minaret, marking the Moham- 
medan, and probably the real, tomb of 
king David. From this the hill breaks 
down in terraces of olives to the val- 
ley of Hinnom. 


On the south side of the valley of 
Hinnom is the Hill of Evil Counsel, 
so called by the monks, with a ruined 
village and a solitary tree on its sum- 
mit. Beyond it is the green plain of 
Rephaim, or “ Valley of the Giants ;” 
and away on the south about3 m. dis- 
tant we observe the Convent of Elias, 
crowning a ridge on the road to Beth- 
lehem. Turning northwards, the only 
conspicuous place in the distance is 
Neby Samwil, the ancient Mizpeh, 
easily distinguished by its high tower. 
Along the whole western horizon runs 
@ uniform line of brown hills, about 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Ancient Topography. 


Sect. IE. 


equal in altitude to those on which 
the city stands. 

Such is the western view from the 
summit of Olivet; and the eastern one 
scarce yields to it in interest, while it 
far surpasses it in extent. The latter, 
however, is best seen from a little | 
wely called Kubbet esh-Shuhdda, “the ; 
Dome of the Witnesses,” about 200 yds. 
beyond the minaret. Here we stand 
on the very brow of the mount. The | 
“ Wilderness of Judsa” commences at ‘ 
our feet, shelves down in a succession 
of naked white hills and dreary gray 
glens for 10 miles or more, and then 
dips abruptly into the deep valley of 
the Jordan. A scene of sterner deso- 
lation could not be imagined. The 
Jordan valley comes from the distance 
on the north, gradually expanding 
into a white plain, and terminating at 
the Dead Sea, a section of whose wa- 
ters is seen over the lower cliffs of the 
‘“* Wilderness.” The winding course 
of the Jordan can be traced for some 
distance up the plain, by its dark line 
of verdure. Away beyond this long 
valley rises suddenly a long unbreken 
mountain-range, like a huge wall, 
stretching north and south far as the 
eye can follow it. The section on 
the right is within the territory of 
Moab; that in the centre, directly op- 
posite us, was possessed by the Am- 

onites; while that on the 1. hand was 
anciéiitly called Gilead, and still re- 
tains its name. Evening is the proper 
time for this view, for then the pale 
blue lights and purple shadows on the 
Moab mountains are exquisitely beau- 
tiful. The glare too of the white 
wilderness is subdued; and the deep 
valley below appears still deeper from 
being thrown into shade. 

No name in Scripture calls up as- 
sociations at once so sacred and so 
pleasing as that of Olivet. The 
“mount” is so intimately connected 
with the private, the devotional life 
of the Saviour, that we read of it and 
look at it with feelings of deepest 
interest and affection. Here He often 
sat with His disciples, telling* them 
of wondrous events yet to come; of 
the destruction of the Holy City, of 
the sufferings, the persecutions, and 


+ ney, 


we 


JERUSALEM. 


the final triumph of His followers. 
(Matt. xxiv.) Here He gave them 
the beautiful parables of the “Ten 
Virgins,” and the “Five Talents.” 
(Matt. xxv.) Here He was wont to 
retire on each evening for meditation 
and prayer, and rest of body, when 
weary and harassed by the labours 
and trials of the day. (Luke xxi. 37.) 
And here He came on the night of 
His betrayal to utter that wonderful 
prayer—*O my Father, if it be pos- 
sible, let this cup pass from me: ne- 
vertheless, not as I will, but as Thou 
wilt.’ (Matt. xxvi. 39.) And when 
the cup of God’s wrath had been 
drunk, and death and the grave con- 
quered, He led His disciples out again 
over Olivet, as far as to Bethany, and 
after a parting blessing ascended to 
heaven. (Luke xxiv. 50-51; Acts i. 
2.) 


§ 33. The Hill of Evil Counsel.— 
This hill is on the south of the valley 
of Hinnom. Its northern side consists 
of a series of cliffs, supporting narrow 
terraces, and rising one above another 
at irregular intervals from the bed of 
the valley to a level summit, which 
again slopes down gently into the 
plain of Rephaim on the south-west. 
Its top is at least as high as any part 
of the city, and is crowned by the 
ruins of a comparatively modern vil- 
lage. “These ruins the monks now 
dignify with the name of the villa or 
country house of Caiaphas; in which, 
according to them, the Jews took coun- 
sel to destroy Jesus. Hence the pre- 
sent appellation of the hill; of which 
name, however, there is no trace ex- 
tant earlier than the latter part of the 
15th century.” Near the ruins stands 
a soli tree of a peculiar sha 
and blasted look, to which the mo 
have assigned the honour of having 
been the gallows of Judas. This hill 
is directly opposite Zion ; but it is con- 
nected by a ridge with a much higher 
one on the S.E. commanding one of 
the most pleasing views of Jerusalem. 


Antiquities —Ancient Walls. © 


105 


5. JEWISH ANTIQUITIES, 


§ 34.—In the city of Jerusalem 
there are really few antiquities now 
remaining, or at least now visible. 
Ancient Jerusalem has become heaps 
of rubbish, which cover to the depths 
of 20, 30, 40, and even 50 feet, the . 
foundations of her Prlaces. The 
modern bazaars, and semi- Frank 
shops, and “streets with holy names,” 
all stand on the accumulated ruin 
of 2000 years. And it is unfortu- 
nately the case that wherever a so- 
litary column, or ancient stone, or 
remnant of massive tower or wall, 
lifts its head above the rubbish, or 
has been brought to light by excava- 
tion, it is encompassed by such a 
mass of learned topographical detail, 
and bitter invective, that the traveller 
is glad to run away from it. The 
ancient topography of the interior of 
Jerusalem can only be conclusively 
settled when its site has been tho- 
roughly excavated. Till then we must 
be content with such facts as emerge 
from the troubled sea of controversy. 


§ 35. ANCIENT Watts. Tower of 
Hippicus.—Josephus informs us that 
“Jerusalem was fortified by three 
walls wherever it was not encom- 
passed by impassable valleys, for there 
there was but a single rampart.” It is 
not to be understood however that the 
three walls were close together, form- 
ing a triple line of defence. They 
were built at different periods to en- 
close separate quarters of the city. 
The first encircled Zion; the second 
Akra; and the third Bezetha. Of 
these the first and most ancient was 
considered impregnable on account of 
the deep ravines that skirted it, and 
the height of the hill on which it 
stood. It was also built with great 
solidity—-David, Solomon, and their 
successors on the throne, having de- 

voted much attention to the work. 
The historian describes with consi- 
derable minutness the lines of these 
three walls, and I shall endeavour to 
get my reader to follow him, that he 
may thereby gain a clear and full 
F . 


106 


view of the gradual growth and ul- 
timate extent of the city. There is 
one particular tower, however, to 
which special and repeated reference 
is made by Josephus, and which he 
takes as his starting-point in defining 
the courses of all the walls; the po- 
_sition of this tower we must first as- 
certain, for it serves as a kind of key 
to the whole. It was called Hippicus, 
and was situated at the north-western 
angle of the first wall, and therefore 
not far from the north-western brow 
of Zion which this wall defended. It 
was built by Herod the Great, and 
named after a friend who had fallen 
in battle. The form was quadrangu- 
lar, 25 cubits on each side, and built 
up entirely solid to the height of 30 
cubits. ver this solid part was a 
large cistern, and still higher were 
chambers for the guards, surmounted 
by battlements. The stones in its 
walls were of enormous magnitude ; 
20 cubits long, by 10 broad, and 5 
high. Its situation too was com- 
manding; for it stood on a rocky 
crest which rose from the summit of 
Zion to a height of 50 cubits. Such 
is the description given by Josephus 
of this remarkable tower—probably 
in a great measure from memory, and 
a good deal exaggerated ; but still con- 
taining some things so peculiar, and 
of such publicity, that he would scarce- 
ly have dared to invent them. He 
tells us farther that when Titus cap- 
tured Jerusalem he saved Hippicus, 
and two other similar towers near it, 
m the gen ruin, partly as 
cimens of the fortifications. Roman 
valour had won. And when the city 
was rebuilt and fortified by Adrian, 
he would doubtless take advantage 
of the vast strength of these towers, 
and include them in his citadel. The 
historians of the crusades speak of a 
citadel under the name of the “ Tower 
of David,” and describe it as con- 
structed of immense hewn stones. 
The walls of the city were destroyed 
by the Mohammedans in the 13th 
century ; but the “Castle of David” 
was ppared, and still continued to 
bear the same name down to the 16th 
century, when it began to be called 


yl 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


the “Castle of the Pisans,” in conse- 
quence of having been at one time 
repaired by the citizens of the Pisan 
republic. From that period to the 
present day it appears to have un- 
dergone little change. 

The heavy towers and massive 
walls of the citadel of Jerusalem will 
not fail to attract the traveller's at- 
tention on approaching from the west, 
and especially when he enters the 
Yafa gate. One of the towers of this 
fortress —that at the N.E. corner—has 
a peculiarly antiquated look. The 
lower part is built of huge bevelled 
stones, measuring from 9 to 13 ft. in 
length, and some of them more than 
4 ft. high ; the upper part is modern, 
and does not differ in appearance or 
workmanship from the other towers. 
The height of the antique part above 
the present level of the fosse is 40 ft. 
It is entirely solid, and recent ex- 
cavations have shown that for some 
height above the foundation it is 
formed of the natural rock hewn into 
shape, and faced with stones. All 
these circumstances, compared with 
the descriptions and incidental no- 
tices of Josephus, lead us to identify 
this tower with the ancient Hippicus. 
It is now generally called the Tower 
of David. 

To visit the citadel a written order 
is required from the chief military 
authority of the city, but it is readily 
granted on an application made to him 
through the consul. The view from 
the top of Hippicus is exceedingly 
interesting and commanding—it is in 
fact far the best in the interior of the 
city. Two wretched old guns are here 
mounted, now only used in firing sa- 
lutes ; and even this operation is not 
always very safe, for, as a gunner in- 
formed me, exhibiting his burned and 
blackened arm, when the match is ap- 
plied the powder sometimes comes out 
at the wrong end. Others still more 
dilapidated are seen in various parts of 
the citadel; and the whole place has 
that appearance of dirt, neglect, and 
decay, everywhere characteristic of 
Turkey and the Turks. Near the top 
of Hippicus is a large vacant cham- 
ber, which a soldier assured me was 


JERUSALEM. 


the veritable Saldm ’Aleik, “ Recep- 
‘tion Room,” of king David. 


§ 36. The First Wall, or Wall of 
Zion.—Having thus got a starting- 
point, and having marked well the 
situation of the ancient Hippicus, we 
are prepared for following the Jewish 
historian round the walls of Zion. 
The first and most ancient wall, he 
informs us, commencing at Hippicus, 
ran eastward along the northern brow 
of Zion, and then across the valley 
to the western enclosure of the tem- 
ple, a distance of about 630 yards. 
In it, near Hippicus, and based on 
the same rocky crest, stood two other 
similar towers called Phasaélus and 
Mariamne. They were likewise built 
by Herod the Great, and named, the 
former after his brother, and the lat- 
ter after his wife. A series of well- 
directed excavations to the east of 
Hippicus, in the open ground, would 
probably determine their precise site, 
and bring to light their massive foun- 
dations now buried beneath heaps of 
rubbish. 


The next point mentioned by Jo- 
sephus, in describing the course of 
this section of the wall of Zion, is the 
Xystus—a kind of Forum, or place of 
public assembly, attached fo the east 
side of the palace, and having colop- 
nades and cloisters. From various in- 
Cidental notices in his writings, we 
learn that the Xystus was connected 
at its southern end with the temple 
area by a bridge; and that it lay 
within easy speaking distance of the 
western wall of the area, and yet was 
separated from the wall by a place 
called the Suburb. The site of the 
temple area is well known, and the 
position of the ancient bridge is also 
determined; the Xystus, therefore, 


must have occupied the lower decli-. 


vity of Zion between the bridge and 
the Street of David. 


The Royal Palace, erected by Herod, 
doubtless on the site of that founded 
by David, and for centuries the home 
of the Jewish kings (2 Sam. v. 9-12), 


Ancient Walls. 


107 


is mentioned by Josephus in con- 
nexion with the northern wall of Zion, 
and especially with its three great 
towers; we may, therefore, in this 
place, try to ascertain its site. ‘“ The 
magnificence of the work, and the 
skill displayed in its construction,” 
writes Josephus, “could not be sur- 
passed. All around were many cloi- 
stered courts opening into one an- 
other, and the columns in each were 
different. Such parts of the courts 
a8 were open were everywhere co- 
vered with verdure. There were be- 
sides groves with long walks through 
them, lined by deep conduits; and in 
many places fountains studded with 
bronze figures, through which the wa- 
ters were discharged.... It was com- 
pletely enclosed by a wall 30 cubits 
high, and ornamental towers were dis- 
tributed along it at equal distances, 
with spacious apartments, each ca- 
pable of containing couches for a 
hundred guests.” All this shows, 
even after full allowance for Eastern 
imagery, that the building must have 
occupied a large extent of ground. It 
is probable that the Xystus was just 
one of its courts, devoted to a specific 
public use; and that the wall which 
encompassed the palace enclosed it 
also—running along the lower decli- 
vity of Zion parallel to the temple 
area, excluding from Zion the deep 
intervening valley which the bridge 
spanned. From the Xystus on the E. 
the palace extended quite across the 
top of the hill to the side of the val- 
ley of Hinnom on the west, for it was 
attached to the three great towers, 
one of which stood at the north-west- 
ern angle of the wall. (See Jos., B. J. 
y. 4, 4; and vi. 8, 1.) 

From the tower of Hippicus, we 
are farther told, the wall ran south- 
wards along the western brow of Zion, 
through a place called Bethso, to the 
gate of the Essenes. Both these 
places are unknown ; and the precise 
site of this line of wall could not be 
ascertained without extensive exca- 
vations. It probably followed tho 
course of the present wall to near the 
south-west angle, and, there bending 
outward, enclosed the ground now 


108 


occupied by the English school and 
cemetery. I was in Jerusalem when 
the school was in course of construc- 
tion, and saw at several places round 
it, where excavations were made, con- 
siderable fragments of mosaic pave- 
ment in situ, with deep wells, tanks, 
ducts, and fragments of ancient ma- 
sonry—all showing that the city wall 
at one time included this spot. 
also observed extensive cuttings in 
the rock adjoining the cemetery, which 
looked like the scarped foundations 
of a rampart; but as in one place 
there were stepa cut in it, and as 
there were small reservoirs quite near, 
I concluded that all these must have 
been within the city wall. May they 
not have been connected with the 
gate of the Essenes ? 

From the gate of the Essenes the 
wall “turned, and advanced with a 
southern aspect above the fountain 
of Siloam, whence it again inclined, 
facing the east, towards Solomon's re- 
Sot eatind Obie (0; 5 it joi ” 
spot e phel), ne 
the eastern colo e of the teinpie.” 
(B. J. v. 4, 2.) This is not very 
definite ; but still it gives some known 
landmarks that show the general 
course. The wall swept round the 
whole southern face of Zion, and then, 
crossing the Tyropoon to the cliff 
at the southern extremity of Ophel, 
proceeded northward to the S8.E. 
angle of the Haram. The “ Foun- 
tain of Siloam ” is unquestionably the 
fountain, or pool, still called by that 
name in the mouth of the Tyropcon, 
and it was probably included within 
the wall. (See B. J. v. 6, 1, and 9, 
4; also Neh. iii. 15.) The next point 
was the “Pool of Solomon,” which 
Dr. Robinson identifies with the 
“Fountain of the Virgin.” If this 

ool was also included, the wall was 

uilt too low down to derive much 
advantage from the precipitous bank 
of the Kidron: its course thence to 
the Haram can only be conjectured. 


Such is the information Josephus 
gives us about the First Wall of Je- 
rusalem; but it appears from many 
incidental notices in his history, that 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities, 


‘Sect. IT. 


there was another, and perhaps still 
older ram which he has here 
wholly overlooked. After the Ro- 
mans had got possession of Bezetha, 
Akra, and Moriah, tcluding the whole 
quarter tn the Tyropeon valley down 
as far as Siloam, they were still un- 
able to enter the upper city on Zion, 
into which the Jews had retired. 
(B. J. vi. 6, 2-3, and 7, 2.) There 
must consequently have been a strong 
line of defence along the whole east- 
ern brow of Zion, from the Xystus, 
or probably the palace wall, to the 
exterior wall on the 8. This would 
enclose Zion proper, or the “ City of 
David,” corresponding to the ancient 
Jebus. (Josh. xv. 63; 2 Sam. v. 7-9.) 
The walls built by Nehemiah after 
the captivity appear to have corres- 

nded for so far with those described 

y Josephus. (Neh. iii.) 


§ 37. The Second Wall, or Wall of 
Akra.—Josephus’s account of this se- 


cond wall is brief and indefinite. It 
commenced at the gate called Gen- 
nath in the first encircled only 


the northern quarter of the city, and 
terminated at the fortress of Antonia. 
The position of the gate Gennath is 
the first point to be determined ; and 
this is just one of those points on 
which a great deal has been written, 
and little or nothing proved. The 
only information Josephus gives is, 
that it belonged to the first wall. 
But we can infer that it was east df 
Hippicus, for the third wall com- 
menced at that tower, and the second 
must, of course, have been within it. 
We have seen that the occu- 
pied the whole northern section of 
Zion; the gate Gennath, or “ Garden 
gate” as the word signifies, was thus 
a gate leading out from the palace, 
probably to afford more easy egress 
to the members of the royal family 
and household to gardens or pleasure- 
grounds without the city. One volu- 
minous writer says, however, that it 
would be absurd to suppose an exit 
for a city gate through such a royal 
palace. No doubt he thinks so; but 
most continental tourista will scarcely 


J ERUSALEM. 


agree with him, when they call to 
mind the palace of Portici near Naples, 
and the Burg Thor of Vienna. The 
bed of the valley of Hinnom is the 
natural site for gardens on this side 
of the city ; and we might reasonably 
suppose that a gate taking their name 
would be close to them. 

But it is the position of the hill of 
Akra, with two or three vestiges of 
antiquity upon it, that enables us most 
satisfactorily to approximate to the 
true position of the gate Gennath. It 
was for the defence of Akra the se- 
cond wall was built; and a glance at 
the map, or at the hill itself, shows 
that a wall constructed to enclose it, 
and carried in a circle, as Josephus 
says, from a point on the north of 
Zion, to the N.W. corner of the Ha- 
ram, could scarcely have commenced 
far eastward of Hippicus. But be- 
sides, about 250 yards N.E. of Hip- 
picus is a large reservoir, partly ex- 
cavated in the rock, and manifestly 
of high antiquity. It is generally 
called the Pool of Hezekiah, and 
doubtless lay within the ancient city, 
and therefore within the second wall. 
But to include it the wall must have 
run northward from a point close to 
Hippicus, perhaps as far as the Latin 
convent, near which in an angle of 
the present wall are foundations of 
large bevelled stones ; and then sweep- 
ing round eastward over the ridge it 
would follow the line of the present 
wall to the Damascus gate, where 
there are also some interesting an- 
cient remains. Just within the gate 
on the east may be seen large hewn 
stones : passing round these, we come 
to a square chamber adjoining the 
wall, whose sides are composed of 
massive bevelled stones, similar to 
those in the exterior wall of the Ha- 


ram. On the western side of the gate 


is a corresponding chamber, but not 
in such good preservation. Some of 
the stones here measure upwards of 
7 ft. by 34, and appear to occupy 
their original places. On the out- 
side of the gate, too, in the founda- 
tions of the wall, are similar stones. 
There can scarcely be a question that 
this is the site of one of the gateways 


Ancent Walls. 


109 


of the second wall, and that the 
chambers within were the ancient 
guard-houses. The course of the wall 
from hence to the tower of Antonia 
we have no means of knowing. Ex- 
cavations may one day reveal it; til 
then it is useless to theorize. 

Other strong arguments are ad- 
vanced by Dr. Robinson to prove that 
the gate Gennath, and therefore the 
commencement of the wall of Akra, 
must have been close to Hippicus. 
One of these I shall here insert, as it 
illustrates the history as well as the 
topography of Jerusalem. ‘“ Josephus 
relates that ‘the city was fortified by 
3 walls, wherever it was not encircled 
by impassable valleys;’ that is to say, 
upon its whole northern quarter. 
But if the gate Gennath, at which the 
second wall began, was not near Hippi- 
cus, and especially if it was so far 
distant as to be opposite the western 
bazaar (as Mr. Williams and other de- 
fenders of the Holy Sepulchre main- 
tain), then all that tract of the 
upper city, from Hippicus to the 
said gate, was fortified only by a 
single wall before the time of Agrip- 
pa; and by only 2 walls (instead of 3) 
at the time of which Josephus was 
writing. The tract thus unprotected 
extended for more than 700 ft., amount- 
ing to more than one half of the entire 
northern side of Zion, and to nearly 
one half of the whole length of the 
first wall. 

“ That all this, however, was not so, 
and that Zion was actually protected 
on the N. by 3 walls, appears farther 
from the fact, that in every siege of 
Jerusalem reported by Josephus (the 
approaches being always and neces- 
sarily made on the N. and N.W.), no 
attack or approach is ever described 
as made against the upper city of Zion 
until after the besiegers had already 
broken through the 2nd wall, and had 
thus got possession of the lower city. 
But if the 2nd wall began near the 
bazaars, then. more than one half of 
the northern brow of Zion was not 
protected by it at all; and the pos- 
session of the lower city was not ne- 
cessary in order to make approaches 
against the upper; and that, too, at 


* On @ more 


110 


the most accessible point—the very 
point, indeed, near to Hippicus, where 
Titus actually made his assault oper 
he had taken the second wall. he 
historian narrates 3 such sieges of Je- 
rusalem, viz. by Herod, Cestius, and 
Titus”—all of which afford almost 
conclusive evidence that the wall of 
Akra protected the whole northern 
side of Zion. (Jos. Ant. xiv. 16,2; B. 
J. ii. 19, 4-7, v. 7, 2, and 8, 1-2.) 

That the uninitiated reader may 
have a key to the cause and object 
of such learned and keen disputes 
about the site of an obscure gate and 
the course of an old wall, I may men- 
tion that it touches a most delicate 
subject — ecclesiastical tradition. If 
the second wall really stood where his- 
tory, topography, and ancient remains 
seem to indicate, then there is an end 
to all the romance of the Holy Se- 
pulchre ; for it is far within this line of 
wall, and Christ was crucified without 
the gate. (Heb. xiii. 12.) 


§ 38. Third Wall, or Wall of 
Bezetha. —‘‘ The tower Hippicus,” 
Josephus writes, “formed the com- 
mencement of the third wall, which 
stretched from thence northward, as 
far as the tower Psephinus, and then 
passing opposite the monuments of 
Helena, and extending through the 
royal caverns, it turned at the corner 
tower near the place known as the 
Fuller's Tomb, and, connecting itself 
with the old wall, terminated at the 
valley called Kidron.” This wall was 
commenced by the elder Agrippa, 
under the Emperor Claudius, in a 
style of great strength and grandeur ; 
but was left off through fear of of- 
fending the emperor. It was after- 
wards completed by the Jews, though 
umble scale. 


The Tower of Psephinus is here the 
first landmark after Hippicus. It 
stood N. of the latter, and at the 
N.W. angle of the whole city. Ac- 
cording to Josephus, “It was 70 
cubits high, and afforded at sunrise 
a view of Arabia, and of the limits of 
the Hebrew territory as far as the sea.” 


Route 7.—Jerusalem — Jewish Antiqutties. 


Sect. IT. 


Its position must thus have been most 
commanding; and a glance at the 
ground on the N.W. of the city shows 
at once its probable site. The ridge 
which forms the continuation of Zion 
rises gradually from the citadel to 
the angle of the modern wall at the 
Latin convent; beyond this it rises 
still more rapidly for about 250 yds., 
where it attains an elevation greater 
than any part of the city, and not 
much less than the summit of the 
Mount of Olives. Here, on the very 
top, are distinct traces of massive 
ancient substructions, apparently of 
towers or other ramparts, extending 
along the height for more‘than 200 
yds. Between the angle of the mo- 
dern wall and these remains, some old 
foundations may also be seen; and 
when we turn from the top of the 
ridge, N.E., toward the Tombs of the 
Kings, we come upon other foundations 
at the distance of 100 yds. Follow- 
ing these for 130 yds. more, we strike 
the road leading from the Yafa gate, 
northward, and observe, along its 
western side, large hewn stones, por- 
tions of d rocks, and low mounds 
of rubbish. Similar remains we may 
trace at intervals through the olive- 
groves to within about 100 yds. on 
the S.E. of the Tombs of the Kings, 
where there are 2 very remarkable 
fragments of ancient massive founda- 
tions constructed of bevelled stones, 
which appear to have been only re- 
cently laid bare. 

The tower of Psephinus most proba- 
bly stood on the top of the ridge above 
indicated; and the next definite mark 
for tracing the course of the third wall 
is the Monument of Helena, which, as 
we shall afterwards see, is identical 
with the Tombs of the Kings. The 
wall, therefore, ran from the tower of 
Psephinus till it came opposite to 
these tombs, just as the fragments of 
foundations still remaining ap to 
indicate. Another fact may be no- 
ticed as tending to the same con- 
clusion. The whole ground to the 
rt. of the line along which we have 
come is dotted at intervals with an- 
cient cisterns, formerly covered over, 
but most of them now wholly or par- 


JERUSALEM. 


tially open: these must have been 
within the city. Heaps of rubbish 
too, with hewn stones, are occasion- 
ally met with among the olive-groves, 
where the husbandman has been less 
diligent with his spade and pickaxe. 


Josephus next mentions the “ Royal 
Caverns” as in the line of the wall. 
About 250 yds. E. by 8. of the Tombs 
of the Kings there is an offset from 
the valley of Jehoshaphat, which cuts 
southward some considerable distance 
into the ridge of Bezetha. Its sides 
are rocky and precipitous, and almost 
filled with excavated tombs, many of 
them highly ornamented. May not 
these be the “ Royal Caverns” of 
Josephus? Both their appearance 
and situation favour the supposition. 
The natural course of a line of fortifi- 
cation would be along the rocky brow 
of the hill just over them. Eastward 
of this spot is a bold projecting angle 
of the hill, round which the Kidron 
sweeps to the S. Here may have 
stood the “'Tower of the Corner near 
the Fuller’s Tomb.” From hence, 
southward to the city, scarcely a 
doubt can be entertained as to the 
course the wall followed. The brow 
of the hill above the Kidron forms 
such an admirable line of defence 
that no engineer would have over- 
looked it. And at a point on the 
steep bank, not far from the N.E. 
angle of the city, are apparently 
the substructions of a tower. It is 
probable that the ancient wall ran 
somewhat nearer to the side of the 
valley than the modern, so as to in- 
clude the large cistern outside St. 
Stephen’s Gate, called Birket Ham- 
maim Sitty Mariam—“ The Pool of 
my Lady Mary’s Bath;” and it per- 
haps continued southward outside the 
Temple wall, as the words of Josephus 
seem to imply, till it joined “the old 
wall” at Ophel. 


§ 39. Extent and Population of 
Ancient Jerusalem.— Josephus gives 
the entire circuit of the city at 33 
stadia, equal to 44 Roman m., or 3} 
geogr. m., and this agrees pretty 


Ancient Extent and Population. 


111 


exactly with the line of the exterior 
walls as above traced. Hecatsus of 
Abdera, a cotemporay of Alexander 
the Great, says the city was 50 stadia 
in circumference, and had a pop. of 
120,000 ; and yet in his day it could 
not have been by one third as large 
as when Bezetha was fortified by 
Agrippa. Eusebius quotes two other 
writers prior to Josephus, one of 
whom gives the circuit at 40 and the 
other at only 27 stadia. But Jose- 
phus’s estimate, perhaps measurement, 
of 33 stadia appears to be the most 
accurate. A city of such moderate 
dimensions — granting that it was 
densly populated — could not have 
afforded accommodation to more than 
100,000 People ; and as we know that 
a considerable portion of ground was 
taken up by the buildings and courts 
of the Temple, and that a part of the 
newly enclosed quarter was but thinly 
peopled, the ordinary population did 
not, perhaps, exceed 70,000. This num- 
ber, however, affords no adequate 
idea of the multitudes that crowded 
the houses and streets of the city, and 
encamped in the glens and on the hill- 
sides around it, during the celebration 
of the annual feasts. A large ma- 
jority of the strangers on those occa- 
sions doubtless pitched their tents or 
bivouacked in the open country, just as 
thousands 6f pilgrims are accustomed 
to do now. It must be admitted, too, 
that Orientals of every sect and class 
have an extraordinary talent for 
packing when necessity requires it. 
The amount of space deemed suf- 
ficient for each person is just esti- 
mated by his length and his breadth. 
In the spring of 1857, when “ going 
up to the feast at Jerusalem,” I un- 
fortunately overtook a caravan of pil- 
grims at Bireh, and, being driven from 
my tent by torrents of rain, was 
obliged to take refuge in a_ house. 
And here, in an apartment some 24 ft. 
square, 26 human beings, men, Wwo- 
men, and children, in addition to my 
horse and a donkey, passed the night ; 
and even then the proprietor com- 
plained that his house was‘ the only 
one in the village not completely 
filled! Such a fact as this prepares 


112 


us in some degree for the startling 
statistics of Josephus, and shows that 
we must not judge them by any of 
our ordinary Western modes of com- 
putation. Josephus states that, from 
an estimate made on one occasion 
during the feast of the Passover, it was 
ascertained that there were in the 
city 2,700,000 souls; and he assures 
us that, when the city was attacked 
by Titus, vast numbers had collected 
to celebrate the feast. Of these, 
1,100,000 perished by pestilence, fa- 
mine, or the sword; 40,000 were per- 
mitted to go free; and 97,000 were 
taken prisoners and sold to slavery. 
These numbers are, doubtless, mere 
estimates made on no very certain 
data, and, like lawyers’ fees, they must 
be pretty largely tazed ; but still, from 
the awful predictions of Scripture, and 
the harrowing details of historians, 
the amount of mortality must have 
been far beyond what any ordinary 
calculation would indicate. 


§ 40. Tar TEMPLE. 


First among the buildings of Je- 
rusalem for extent, splendour, and 
sacred interest, was the gomple on 
Mount Moriah. The first of the 
Hebrew nation who planned the 
erection of a permanent sanctuary for 
the worship of the “God of Israel ” 
was kin id. The design was 
encouraged by Nathan the prophet; 
but the warrior-monarch was com- 
manded to leave its execution to his 
more peaceful son and successor (2 
Sam. vii.). David, however, collected 
materials, and made the requisite pre- 
parations for so great a work (1 Chron. 
xxii, 11-16). Four years after his 


death the foundation was laid by. 


Solomon (B.c. 1011), and in 7 years 
the building was completed. The 
site selected, doubtless by divine ap- 
pointment, was the summit of Moriah, 
on the spot where Qrnan, or Araunah, 
the Jebusite, had his threshing-floor. 
Over this spot the angel of the Lord 
was seen to stand at that time when 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


Jerusalem was threatened with de- 
struction, and there David was com- 
manded to offer sacrifice that the 
lague might be stayed. “ David 
bought the threshing-floor and the 
oxen for fifty shekels of silver ;”’ but 
he gave “six hundred shekels of 
old” for the entire place—most pro- 
Bably including the whole hill of 
Morish (comp. 2 Sam. xxiv. 18-25, 
and 1 Chron. xxi. 18-30). He then 
“built an altar unto the Lord, and 
offered burnt-offerings and peace-of- 
ferings, and called upon the Lord; 
and He answered him from heaven 
by fire upon the altar of burnt-offer- 
ings.” Thus was the site consecrated. 
Descriptions of the Temple, its courts, 
altars, and sacred utensils, are given 
in 1 Kings vi. and vii., and 2 Chron. 
lii, and iv. After standing 423 years 
it was destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar. 
The Second Temple was commenced 
after the captivity, in the year B.c. 
534, and dedicated 19 years after- - 
wards. It suffered much from foreign 
invaders, and strife among the Jews 
themselves, during the 2 centuries pre- 
ceding the Christian era; but it was 
rebuilt with great magnificence by 
erod the Great. The work was be- 
in the 18th year of his reign. 
The priests and Levites finished the 
Temple itself in a year and a half; 
the outer buildings and courts took 
eight years more; and colonnades, 
porches, and decorations continued to 
be added long afterwards, so that the 
Jews could say with truth; in our Sa- 
viour’s time, “ Forty and six years was 
this temple in building’ (John ii. 
20). Even then it was not completed : 
it was only a very few years before its 
final destrction that the work was 
brought to a close. (See above, § 20 
and § 27.) 

The accounts Josephus has left us 
of the temple of Herod are somewhat 
confused, and also probably exagger- 
ated. ‘“ He wrote at Rome, and long 
after the destruction of Jerusalem ; 
nor is there any evidence that he had 
collected specific materials for his 
works in his own country previously 
to that event. Hence, when he en- 
ters into minute descriptions, and pro- 


JERUSALEM. 


fesses to give details of magnitude, 
there is every reason to distrust his 
accuracy.” Yet still his description 
is invaluable, and a careful study of 
it is absolutely necessary to a full 
investigation of the remains of this 
most interesting monument. He has 
left two distinct descriptions; one in 
his Antiquities, where he narrates the 
reconstruction of the body of the 
Temple by Herod (book xv. 11, 3-7); 
the other in his Jewish Wars (book 
v. 5, 1-6). I shall here insert the 
substance of them to save the neces- 
sity of constant reference to the ori- 


The temple was situated on a rocky 
eminence. Originally the level space 
on the summit scarcely sufficed for 
the sanctuary and the altar, the sides 
being everywhere steep and preci- 
pitous. But Solomon, who built the 
sanctuary, having completely walled 
up the eastern side of the hill, built 
a colonnade on the embankment. On 
the other three sides the sanctuary 
remained exposed. In process of time, 
however, as the people were con- 
stanitly adding to the embankment, 
the hill became level and broader. 
They also threw down the northern 
wall, and enclosed as much ground 
as the circuit of the temple subse- 
quently occupied. After having. sur- 
rounded the hill from the base with 
a triple wall, and accomplished a 
work which surpassed all expectation 
—a work on which long ages were 
consumed, and all their sacred trea- 
sures exhausted, though replenished 
by the tribute offered to God from 
every region of the world—they built 
the upper boundary walls and the 
lower court of the Temple. 

The lowest part of the latter they 
built up from a depth of 300 cubits, 
and in some places more. The entire 
depth of the foundations, however, was 
not discernible; for, with a view to 
level the streets of the town, they 
filled up the ravines to a considerable 
extent. There were stones used in 
this building which measured 40 
cubits; for so ample was the supply 
of money, and such the zeal of the 
people, that incredible success at- 


The Temple. 


113 


tended the undertaking; and that of 
which hope itself could not anticipate 
the accomplishment was by time and 
perseverance completed. 

Nor was the superstructure un- 
worthy of such foundations. The 
colonnades, double. throughout, were 
supported by pillars 25 cubits high, 
each a single block of white marble. 
The ceilings were of panelled cedar. 
The colonnades (or cloisters) were 30 
cubits wide, and their : entire cir- 
cuit, including Antonia, measured six 
stadia. The open court was covered 
with tesselated pavement. As you 
advanced through this to the second 
court, you came to a stone balustrade, 
drawn all round, 3 cubits high, and 
of exquisite workmanship. On this 
stood tablets at regular intervals, 
some in Greek, others in Latin, indi- 
cating that no foreigner was permitted 
to pass this boundary. Within the 
barrier you ascended by 14 steps to 
a level terrace, 10 cubits wide, en- 
circling the wall of the inner court, 
and from this terrace five steps more 
led to the inner court, which was sur- 
rounded by a wall 40 cubits high on 
the outside, but only 25 within. The 
principal gate of the inner court was 
on the east; but there were also three 
on the north and three on the south, 
to which were afterwards added three 
others for women. 

Within the second court was the 
third or most sacred enclosure, which 
none but the priests might enter; 
consisting of the Temple itself, and 
the small court before it where stood 
the great altar. To this there was 
an ascent from the second court by 
12 steps. It was this Naos alone 
which was rebuilt by Herod; who 
also built over again some of the mag- 
nificent cloisters around the area. 
But no mention is made of his having 
had anything to do with the massive 
walis of the exterior enclosure. In 
the centre of the southern side of the 
outer court was a double gate, pro- 
bably for the use of the Nithinims 
who dwelt in Ophel. On its western 
side were four gates; one opening 
on the bridge that connected the 
Temple with the Xystus and royal pa- 


o 


114 


lace; two opening into the suburb, 
perhaps in the upper part of the 
Tyropcoeon ; and one leading to - road 
which crossed a valley to Akra. There 
was no gate either on the east or 
north side. 


Such is the substance of Josephus’s 
description of the Temple and _ its 
courts, given to a great degree in the 
language of Dr. Robinson. Having 
this before us, we are prepared for a 
detailed survey of the present site 
and antiquities of el-Haram esh-Sherif ; 
and we shall soon see that it em- 
braces the whole area of the Jewish 
Temple. A single glance shows us that 
the Haram is an artificial platform, 
supported by, and within, massive 
walls, built up from the declivities of 
the hill on three sides; varying in 
altitude according to the nature of 
the ground, but being in general 
greatest towards the south. The area 
within the enclosure is nearly level, 
showing on the north side of the 
central mosk a considerable section 
of the natural rock, levelled by art. 
Nearly in the centre of the enclosure 
is a flagged platform, about 15 ft. 
above the general level, and ascended 
by several broad flights of stairs. It 
is 550 ft. long from N. to 8., and 450 
wide. In the middle of it stands the 
great octagonal mosk called Kubbet 
es-Sukhrah, beneath whose dome is 
an irregular projecting crown of na- 
tural rock, 5 ft. high, and 60 ft. across. 
Thus we observe that the appear- 
ance and general construction of the 
whole area of the Haram are exactly 
similar to those of the ancient Temple 
area. 

But the Haram enclosure is oblong, 
its eastern side measuring 1529! ft., 
and its southern only 926; and be- 
sides, both the west and north sides 
are somewhat longer than their cp- 
posites. Now, according to Josephus, 
the Temple area was a square, each 
side being a stadium, or 600 ft., in 
length. From these measurements 
we see that the Haram area is not 
only far greater in extent, but alto- 
gether different in form from that of 
the Temple as described by Josephus. 


Route 7.—Jerusalemn—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


I may here remark, to prevent confu- 
sion or misapprehension, that the plan 
of the Haram, as constructed by the 
English engineers, and published by 
Mr. Williams in his ‘ Holy City,’ and 
likewise copied in Ritter’s ‘ Palastina 
und Syrien,’ is inaccurate. The west- 
em wall ought to be straight, as 
shown in the map attached to this 
work. All the arguments, therefore, 
based upon the alleged irregularity of 
the western side fall to the ground. 

We shall now proceed to examine 
the exterior walls to see what remains 
exist of ancient Jewish architecture, 
and what traces there are of later 
alterations and additions. The reader 
will bear in mind as we pass round 
the Haram the statement made above, 
that there is no mention whatever in 
the writings of Josephus of Herod's 
having rebuilt, or even repaired, the 
exterior walls of the Temple enclo- 
sure ; and, therefore, whatever remains 
of Jewish masonry are found in them 
may be safely ascribed to a period 
antecedent to his time—perhaps in 
part even to Solomon himself. 


EXTERIOR WALLS OF THE HARAM : 
the north side.—We begin at the 
N.W. angle. Here stands a large ir- 
regular pile of building, forming the 
official residence of the pasha. It is 
founded upon a projecting crown of 
rock, which rises nearly 20 ft. abeve 
the Haram area. The southern sec- 
tion has been cut away to the level 
of the area, which has thus at this 
place a floor of natural rock, and at 
its northern border an artificial pre- 
cipice. The pasha’s house covers the 
Haram wall for a distance of 370 ft. 
from the N.W. angle, and has on its 
eastern side a small gateway called 
Bab ed-Dawatér, “Gate of the Secre- 
tary,” opening from a narrow, dark 
lane into the area. There is another 
gate, called Bab el-Hitté, 150 ft. 
farther east; the intervening space 
being covered with old houses. A 
few feet east of the latter gate is one 
of the most remarkable excavations 
in the city, and one, too, of great im- 
portance in a topographical point of 
view. It is a vast fosse or tank, 360 ft. 


JERUSALEM. 


long, 130 broad, and 75 deep. It was 
doubtless much deeper, for the bot- 
tom is encumbered by the accumu- 
lated rubbish of centuries. That it 
was at one time used as @ reservoir 
is evident from the fact that the sides 
have been covered with small stones 
and a thick coating of cement. It 
stretches along the side of the Ha- 
ram wall eastward to within a few 
feet of the city wall south of St. 
Stephen's gate. The western end is 
built up and coated like the rest ex- 
cept at the S8.W. corner, where are 
the openings of two high-arched 
vaults, which extend westward side 
by side under the modern houses. 
The southern one is 12 ft. wide and 
the other 19. They are both nearl 
filled up with rubbish, a heap of which 
lies in the fosse before them; yet Dr. 
Robinson was able to measure to the 
distance of 100 ft. within the northern 
one, and it appeared to extend much 
farther. This gives the whole exca- 
vation, as far as explored, a length of 
460 ft., nearly one half the entire 
breadth of the Haram. The remarks 
of Dr. Robinson on this great work 
I agree with :—“I hold it probable 
that this excavation was anciently 
carried quite through the ridge of 
Bezetha along the northern side of 
Antonia to its N.W. corner; thus 
forming the deep trench which (Jo- 
sephus informs us) separated the fort- 
ress from the adjacent hill. This 
(western) part was naturally filled up 
by the Romans under Titus, when 
they destroyed Antonia, and built up 
their approaches in this quarter against 
the Temple.” 

The approach to this great fosse 
is from St. Stephen’s Gate. A narrow 
path leads along its eastern end, close 
to the city wall, to a portal opening 
on the Haram, called Bdb es-Subdt, 
“the Gate of the Tribes.” The monks 
call the fosse Bethesda, and also the 
Sheep Pool; thus making it the site 
of the interesting story related in 
John v. 2-9: “ Now there is at Jeru- 
salem by the sheep-market (or gate, 
Neh. iii. 1) a pool, which is called in 
the Hebrew to 


ngue Bethesda, having 
five porches.” The two arches in the 


The Haram. 


115 


western end they identify with two of 
the “five porches.” There is not a 
shadow of evidence, however, for this 
tradition. 


East Wall of the Haram.—Passing 
out of St. Stephen’s Gate, we turn to 
the rt., and a few steps bring us to 
the N.E. angle of the Haram. Here 
is unquestionably a considerable sec- 
tion of Jewish masonry facing both 
the north and the east; thus showin 
that the angle of the wall is original. 
This section projects 74 ft. from the 
general line of the wall southward, 
forming a corner tower 834 ft. long. 
The stones are all bevelled, beauti- 
fully hewn, and of massive propor- 
tions. One at the S.E. angle measures 
23 ft. 9 in. long, 3 ft. high, and 5 ft. 
2 in. wide. Others vary from 17 to 
20 ft. in length. Five courses of them 
are nearly entire, and the quoin is 
ancient, or at least of ancient mate- 
rials, almost to the top. This, as we 
shall see, was most probably one of 
the bastions of Antonia. 

Next comes a line ofwall extend- 
ing 373 ft. to the Golden Gate. Along 
a portion of it several courses of an- 
cient masonry will be observed, less 
massive indeed, and less carefully 
finished, than the tower; but still of 
high, perhaps of equal antiquity. 
Many of the stones are more than 8 ft. 
long, and one about half way down 
measures 18 ft. by 5. The general 
appearance of this part is that of a 
wall, somewhat carelessly constructed 
on old foundations, and of old ma- 
terials. 


The Golden Gate is one of the most 
striking features in the eastern wall. 
It is in the centre of a projection 
55 ft. long, and standing out 6 ft. 
The portal is double, with semicir- 
cular arches profusely ornamented. 
The Corinthian capitals which sustain 
the entablature spring like corbels 
from the wall, and the whole en- 
tablature is bent round the arch. 
The exterior appearance, indepen- 
dent of ita architecture, bears no 
mark of high antiquity. Any close 


116 


observer can see at a glance that it 
has been stuck in at a comparatively 
recent period, for it bears no resem- 
blance to the massive stones along 
the lower part of the wall on each 
side; and indeed the new masonry 
around is sufficiently ap nt. The 
architecture of the interior, at which 
a peep can be got through narrow 
windows in the walled-up portal, is very 
peculiar. In the centre is a range of 
columns, some Corinthian, some de- 
based Ionic, with exaggerated capi- 
tals; and at the sides are correspond- 
ing pilasters. From these asprin 
groined arches supporting the roof. 
Mr. Fergusson says of this interior— 
“The entablature is carried along 
the wall from pilaster to pilaster as 
& mere ornament, under an arch which 
is the real constructive form of the 
roof. The order is still purely Co- 
rinthian, but of so debased charac- 
ter, that it could not have been exe- 
cuted even in the East before the time 
of Constantine, and as certainly can- 
not belong to the age of Justinian, 
or to any time approaching his period. 
The Ionic order in the centre 1s of a 
more debased character, but not un- 
like some of the latest specimens in 
Rome, and may have been copied 
from some local types, the original of 
which we do not now possess.” 

South of the Golden Gate is a sec- 
tion of wall, rough and comparatively 
modern, but containing some large 
stones; it extends 110 ft. 8 in. toa 
small projection of 2 ft. From hence 
to the southern angle is 907 ft. 4 in. 
The masonry in the northern part of 
this section is rude and irregular, 
mostly projecting beyond the line of 
the wall. Towards the south are 
many large antique stones, but rough 
in the centre, and evidently not in 
their ancient places. Fragments of 
columns, too, are seen here and there ; 
I noticed one of porphyry and 3 of 
verde-antique ; another near the top 
of the wall will be remarked, project- 
: ing some feet. On this, says tradition, 
the prophet Mohammed will take his 
seat at the day of judgment to direct 
affairs in the valley below. (See above, 
§ 31). As we approach the southern 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


corner, the ground sinks rapidly, re- 
vealing some lower courses of very 
large ancient stones, manifestly occu- 
pying their ancient places. The stones 
in the wall above them are scarcely 
less massive, but their rude disjointed 
aspect shows them to have been re- 
built at a comparatively recent period. 
There are here also two very large 
stones with a curved surface, as if for 


an arch. 

The last 60 ft. of this side projects 
some 6 inches, and is the most beauti- 
fully executed and the best preserved 
part of the whole wall. At the angle 
16 courses of the ancient bevelled 
stones remain, and there are probably 
many more now covered with rubbish. 
It forms, perhaps, one of the finest 
specimens of mural architecture in the 
world. ‘The joints are close, and 
the finishing of the bevelling and 
facing is so clean and fine that, when 
fresh from the hands of the builder, it 
must have produced the effect of gi- 
gantic relievo panelling. The ‘ chief 
corner stones’ are 20 ft. long ; and the 
eighth, counting upwards, is estimated 
at 7 ft. in breadth by 6 in height; 
and here should be noticed a space 
left, as if for a window, in the upper 
part. The material employed isa fine 
limestone, and is now clothed with 
that golden hue which a course of 
ages produces in southern climes.” 

It will thus be seen that there is 
a section of this wall 1018 ft. long 
nearly in one unbroken line, extend- 
ing from the south angle to the pro- 
jection at the Golden Gate. Ifa line 

drawn from this point westward, 
across the Haram area, it passes about 
150 ft. north of the great mosk, cut- 
ting off a space measuring 1018 ft. by 
926, which we may regard as pretty 
nearly coinciding with the area of the 
ancient Temple. It does not indeed 
form a mathematical square, as that 
area is represented by Josephus; but 
its sides are so nearly equal, that in 
popular language it might be so called. 
Other circumstances tending to corro- 
borate this view I shall state after- 
wards, The tract to the north of the 
Temple was occupied by the fortess of 
Antonia. 


JERUSALEM. 


Along the eastern wall of the Ha- 
ram there is a narrow tract of com- 
paratively level ground intervening 

etween the foundations and the 
steep bank of the Kidron, now occu- 
pied bya Turkish cemetery. As we 
proceed southward it becomes nar- 
rower, until at last it is but a mere 
ledge: in fact, the southern angle of 
the wall stands on the very brow of 
the ravine, which is 130 ft. deep, while 
the height of the wall is nearly 80 ft. 
It will be at once observed how 
closely this agrees with the descrip- 
tion of Josephus. In speaking of the 
lofty portico, or cloister, along the 
south wall of the Temple area, he says, 
“‘ It continued from the eastern valley 
to the western; for tt could not posst- 
bly be extended farther ;’ and he also 
states that, “if from its roof one at- 
tempted to look down into the 
below, his eyes became dark and dizzy 
before they could penetrate to the 
immense depth.” From the summit 
of the south-eastern angle it would 
still cause the brain to reel to look 
down into the depths of Jehoshaphat. 
It is worthy of remark also that 
the Jews seem to have bestowed 
especial care upon the corners of their 
buildings, which everywhere exhibit 


a greater degree of finish, and a better | type 


choice of material, than the plain wall. 
Their chief corner-stones, as seen in 
the Haram, are of fine proportions 
and ing magnitude, fitted no 
less for beauty than for strength. 
Does not this seem to illustrate some 
fine passages of Scripture? “ Behold 
I Jay in Zion for a foundation a stone, 
a tried stone, a precious corner-stone, 
a sure foundation.” (Is. xxviii. 16.) 
“ That our daughters may be as cor- 
ner-stones, cut after the similitude of a 
palace.” (Ps. cxliv. 12.) The Saviour 
too is likened by the apostle to a 
“‘ chief corner.” ‘Axpoywridios (Eph. 
ii. 20). 


The South Wall.— The southern side 
of the angle corresponds in every 
respect to the eastern—the massive 
stones, the peculiar bevel, and the 
courses of masonry are the same. A 
fine view of it is given from a draw- 


The Haram. 


117 


ing by Tipping, in Traill’s ‘ Josephus,’ 
There are here 15 ancient courses, 
but the 8 upper ones only run a few 
feet westward, and as the soil rises, 
doubtless from the accumulation of 
rubbish, the 5 lowest are soon con- 
cealed. 30 yds. from the corner is a 
walled-up gate with a pointed arch, in 
the upper or modern part of the wall. 
Beyond this only two courses of an- 
cient stones are visible, and these are 
not so regular as those at the angle. 
We now come to 8 circular arches 
built up, about 25 ft. high by 14 wide, 
entering apparently to the vaults be- 
neath the area (see below). These 
arches, though evidently of the Ro- 
man age, are of a much later period 
than the massive foundations. They 
may probably occupy the places of 
more ancient portals. Passing on, 
the stones of the only ancient course 
now above ground increase in size, and 
are better finished ; they run quite up 
to a little heap of rubbish in the angle 
where the city wall joins that of the 
Haram. One of these stones is 23 ft. 
long; but most of them are set end- 
ways, forming a course measuring 6 
ft. in height; they have bevelled 
edges and smoothly finished surfaces, 
and are, in fact, the pure Jewish 


At 550 ft. from the eastern corner 
the city wall joins that of the Haram at 
right angles ; and at the point of junc- 
tion an interesting relic may be seen— 
a section of an arch, somewhat resem- 
bling in style and ornament that of the 
Golden Gate. The remaining portion 
of the arch is covered by the city 
wall, but just under the part exposed 
is a small grated window, rather diffi- 
cult of access, through which we get 
a dim view of a long subterranean 
avenue leading up an inclined plain 
and flight of steps to the Haram area. 
This is one of the most remarkable 
pieces of antiquity in the whole of 
this noble structure. It is neither an 
easy nor a pleasant task, however, 
thoroughly to examine it; for surl 

peasants without, and Jealous black 
guards (blackguards we might safely 
call them) within the Haram, are apt 
to annoy, if not abuse, the explorer. 


118 


Thanks, however, to the enterprising 
spirit and skilful pencil of Mr. Tip- 
ping, we are able to form an accurate 
idea of the avenue, and the gateway 
opening into it, without the trouble of 
actual inspection. It is now wholly 
covered, with the exception of the 
section referred to on the east side, 
by the modern building in which the 
city wall here terminates. In this 
building are two chambers adjoining 
the Haram, one of which is accessible 
from within the city wall. Entering 
the latter, Mr. Tipping got to the 
inner one through a broken part of a 
partition wall (since built up); and 
from it he found an opening through 
the ancient gateway to the long sub- 
terranean passage. This ancient gute- 
way is double, and its total breadth is 
42 ft. It is divided by a rectangular 
pier 8 ft. broad and 14 deep, having a 
semi-column on the innerend. This 
central pier, and the whole eastern 
and western jambs, are built of be- 
velled stones, of great size, highly 
finished, and manifestly of the oldest 
type. The ornamental arches are 
stuck on ; and the small columns which 
now stand on each side of the double 
entrance are of modern date, having 
no connexion with the ancient work. 
Within the gate is a kind of entrance- 
hall, 63 ft. long by 42 wide; in the 
centre of which is a huge dwarf co- 
lumn, 21 ft. high and 64 in diameter— 
a single stone including the capital. 
The capital is peculiar, bearing traces 
of a perpendicular palm-leaf ornament, 
which Mr. Fergusson says is at least 
as old as the time of Herod. The 
roof is vaulted, of fine workmanship ; 
the flattish arches springing from the 
central monolith and piers, and from 
pilasters at the sides. Its date cannot 
be ascertained, but it is probably of 
the time of Herod. Mr. Tipping’s 
description of the interior is most 
important. “ The broad division be- 
tween the arches consists of bevelled 
stones of cyclopean dimensions. The 
sides of the long passage (north of the 
hall) are also built of huge roughly 
bevelled stones; but the walls of the 
hall are apparently plain and Roman, 
though of great size. This seeming 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


anomaly perplexed me for a long time; 
but at length, and while examining 
these side walls closely, I ascertained 
from visible traces that it (they) had 
been bevelled; but that, in order to 
construct side pilasters, corresponding 
with the central pillar, and bearing 
the two arches springing from it, the 
bevelling had been chiselled away ; thus 
affording a slight relief to the pilas- 
ter.” Some of the stones in these 
walls are 13 ft. long. 

At the northern end of this hall 
there is a rise in the floor of several 
feet, up the western section of which 
is a flight of steps. From hence the 
vaulted passage continues, with a gen- 
tle ascent, 200 ft.; a range of square 
ancient piers supporting the roof. 
From the upper extremity of the east- 
ern aisle, as we may call it, a broad 
staircase leads up to the Haram area, 
opening about 30 ft. in front of the 
mosk el-Aksa. The pier at the upper 
end of the hall has a semi-column on 
each end ; and next to it northward, 
instead of a pier, is a monolithic co- 
lumn. 

Josephus states, as we have seen, 
that the southern side of the Temple 
area “had gates about the middle” 
(xvAas xara pécov). The easy and 
natural explanation of which language 
is, that there was a double gateway in 
the southern wall; and accordingly 
the double gateway still exists, afford- 
ing proof no less of the accuracy of 
the historian, than of the identity of 
this section of the Haram with the 
ancient Temple area. The peculiari- 
ties, too, in the architecture, and the 
many changes which have been made 
in it, seem to lead us back to ages 
long prior to the days of Josephus or 
Herod, perhaps to the time of Solo- 
mon himeelf, of whose buildings it is 
said in Scripture that they were “of 
costly stones, according to the mea- 
sures of hewed stones, sawed with 
saws, within and without, even from 
the foundation unto the coping. And 
the foundation was of costly stones, even 
great stones ; stones of ten cubits and 
stones of eight cubits.” (1 Kings-xii. 9, 
10. 


With the west side of this noble 


JERUSALEM, 


gateway, which is enclosed in a vault- 
ed chamber of Saracenic work, the 
bevelled masonry ceases; and i to 
the S.W. corner we have a _ lofty 
wall of uniform and excellent work- 
manship, apparently all of the later 
Roman age. At the corner we again 
meet with colossal stones, bevelled 
edges, and smooth-hewn faces. The 
ground descends rapidly from the 
Junction of the city wall to this 
place, and thus reveals lower courses 
of masonry which are carried round 
the angle, like those on the 8.E. 


The West Wall and Bridge.—The 
stones on the western face of this 
angle are still larger than any we 


have yet met with, while they pre-. 


serve the same antique style of archi- 
tecture. There are 4 courses of them 
above ground, and the lowest corner- 
stone is 30 ft. 10 in. long and 64 broad ; 
the others vary from 244 to 204 and 
unde by 5 ft. in height. They are 
much worn by time, but still on most 
of them the Jewish bevelling is dis- 
tinetly seen. There can be no doubt, 
therefore, that this is the original ter- 
mination of the Temple area. The 
nature of the ground and the course 
of the valley make it evident that this 
angle is founded, as Josephus describes 
it, on the shelving side of Moriah, and 


originally impended over the Tyro- 


poson, now greatly filled up with rub- 
bish. How much it is filled up may 
be roughly estimated by a glance at 
the city wall, which crosses the valley 
100 yds. to the 8. On the inside it is 
only some 10 or 12 ft. high, while on 
the outside it is more than 50. It 
would be most interesting to make a 
series of excavations at this place, and 
across the valley to the brow of Zion. 
There can be little doubt that the 
foundations of the Temple wall would 
be found even still more colossal than 
the portion now seen; and stones 
might be discovered perhaps to rival 
those of Bé’albek. 


The Bridge.—But at the distance of 
39 ft. from this angle is one of the 
most interesting remains of antiquity 
in Jerusalem, for the discovery of 


West Wall and Bridge. 


119 


which we are indebted to Dr. Robin- 
son. Here are three courses of huge 
stones projecting from the wall, and 
forming a segment of an arch. One 
of them is 204 ft. long, another 243, 
and the rest in proportion. The arch 
itself extends 51 ft. along the wall. - 
The section which remains was mea- 
sured by Dr. Robinson, who makes 
the chord 124 ft., the sine 11 ft. 10 in., 
and the cosine 3 ft.10 in. Supposing 
the arch to be semicircular, this would 
give a diameter of about 41 ft. The 
distance from the wall across the 
valley to the precipitous rock of Zion 
is 350 ft., which is the proximate length 
of the ancient bridge. Making allow- 
ance for the width of the piers, and 
the abutment on Zion, five such 
arches would be required to span the 
Tyropeeon. 

There can be no reasonable doubt 
that the whole of the substructions we 
have examined on the E. and §. be- 
longed to the original Temple area, 
and that the remains of this arch are 
coeval with the most ancient work 
now visible. We have for so far ob- 
served also a close correspondence 
between the descriptions of Josephus 
and the existing remains ; and now, in 
this bridge, we find another remark- 
able accordance with the statements 
of the historian. He remarks inci- 
dentally in different places that a 
“ bridge,” yépupa, connected the Tem- 
ple with the upper city on Zion; that 
it was at the lower end of the Xystus ; 
and that the space between the Temple 
wall and the Xystus was so short, that 
Titus standing on the former was able 
to hold a parley with the Jews in the 
latter. Now, in exact accordance with 
these statements, we find the fragment 
of this colossal arch, just in the very 
spot where a student of Josephus would 
have looked for it—on the W. cliff of 
the Temple mount, and at the nearest 
point to the precipitous side of Zion. 


The identity, and the very reality, of 
this bridge have been keenly disputed, 
like everything else in and around 
the city; but I have no intention of 
dragging my reader into the confusion 
of such anarena. I will only say, with 


120 


a recent visitor to the Holy City, “ that 
it seems surprising that any dispute 
could arise as to the import of this 
fragment.” The precise date of the 
arch cannot now be determined ; one 
thing, however, is clear, that it is 
coeval with the massive foundations at 
the southern angles of the area. It 
must thus be referred to a period long 
antecedent to the time of Herod, inas- 
much as the magnitude of the stones, 
and the character of the masonry, as 
compared with any other known 
monuments of that monarch, or of his 
age, seem to point to an earlier origin. 
The peculiar bevel, already often 
mentioned, was never used by the 
Romans. It is found on the earliest 
Persian monuments of Passargade, 
where C and Cambyses resided 
from B.c. 560 to 522; but even there 
the stones are not so massive as those 
in the Haram. Ina few Greek build- 
ings of the best age it is also found ; 
but the stones used are comparatively 
small, and their size more uniform. 
It is quite different from the well- 
known Roman rustic masonry. 

The bridge between the Temple 
and Zion is first definitely mentioned 
during the siege by Pompey, 20 years 
before Herod was made king. The 
party of Aristobulus are represented 
as retreating from Zion into the Tem- 
ple, and breaking down the bridge 

ehind them. (Joseph., B. J. i. 7, 2.) 
The real meaning of the “ascent by 
which Solomon went up to the House 
of the Lord,” as mentioned in 2 Chron. 
ix. 4, and 1 Kings x. 5, has been so 
much controverted by critics of the 
highest authority, that I have not re- 
ferred to it above. The Hebrew word 
is radically the same in both places, 
and means simply an “ascent,” whe- 
ther by stairs or otherwise. It was 
one of those wonders of Jerusalem 
which especially excited the astonish- 
ment of the queen of Sheba. In 1 
Chron. xxvi. 16, the same “ ascent” 
appears to be referred to in the ac- 
count of the appointment of the por- 
ters to their several stations in the 
Temple. “To Shuppim and Hosah 
(the lot fell) westward, at (so I render 
the word Dj’) the gate Shallecheth, 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


by the causeway (or viaduct) of the 
ascent.” The word translated ‘“ cause- 
way " is MD), which means originally 
“a raised way ” or “ viaduct ” of what- 
ever kind, and then a “staircase.” 
Now, laying aside all minute verbal 
criticism, and taking the plain rational 
view of the several passages, would it 
not strike one that there is some spe- 
cific and remarkable approach to 
the Temple here referred to ; and that 
it was in some way appropriated to the 
use of the king? Mr. Williams “is con- 
fident” that it was a mound of earth 
over the valley; and Dr. Robinson 
thinks allusion is made to the beauty 
of the staircases around the Temple ; 
but neither of these would seem to 
answer fully to the description in the 
above passages. May we not identify 
this wonderful “ascent” with that 
“ viaduct” which Josephus afterwards 
refers to as leading from the royal 
palace on Zion to the Temple arga, the 
colossal remains of which s call 
forth our wonder and admiration? 
Such a monument of genius and power 
might be expected to make a deep im- 
pression on the mind of the queen of 
Sheba: “And when the queen of 
Sheba had seen the wisdom of Solo- 
mon, and the house he had built .. . 
and his ascent by which he went up 
into the house of the Lord, there was 
no more spirit in her.” (1 Chron. ix. 


3, 4.) . 

A difficulty has been suggested 
arising from the supposed late origin 
of the arch. It is now certain, how- 
ever, that the principle of the arch was 
known and practised in Egypt long 
before the age of Solomon. “ Many 
of the tombs and chambers round the 
pyramids are roofed by stone arches of 
@ semicircular form, and perfect in 
every respect as far as the principles 
of the arch are concerned. Behind 
the Rhamession at Thebes there are 
a series of arches in brick, which seem 
undoubtedly to belong to the same 
age as the building itself; und Sir G. 
Wilkinson mentions a tomb at Thebes, 
the roof of which is vaulted with 
bricks, and still bears the name of 

menoph I., of the 18th dynasty (B.c. 
1550). . . . . In his researches at 


o 


JERUSALEM. 


Nimroud, Layard discovered vaulted 
drains and chambers below the N.W. 
and S.E. edifices, which were conse- 
quently as old as the 8th or 9th centy. 
before our era. .... The city gates 
at Khorsabad were spanned by arches 
of semicircular form, so perfect, both 
in construction and in the mode in 
which they were ornamented, as to 
prove that in the time of Sargon the 
arch was a usual and well-understood 
building expedient, and one conse- 
quently which we may fairly assume 
to have been long in use.”—Fergus- 
son’s Handbook of Architecture, p. 252. 
These remarks are of great importance, 
as they remove the only rational 
ground of doubt as to the remote an- 
tiquity of this colossal fragment. We 
may, therefore, refer it back either to 
the age of Solomon, the style of whose 
mural architecture, as descri in 
Scripture, corresponds with the mas- 
sive foundations of the Haram; or at 
least to the time of his immediate suc- 
cessors, who, according to Josephus, 
built up here immense walls, “ im- 
moveable for all time.” 


What thrilling associations, then, 
do these sacred stones call up to the 
mind! Across the bridge, supported by 
them, the dwellers on Zion were wont 
to pass over to the “Holy Mount” 
to worship God in His sanctuary. 
Across it the kings and princes of 
Israel proceeded in state to pay their 
vows to the Lord. And when the 
temple was burned to the ground, and 
the sanctuary polluted by the “ abomi- 
nation of desolations,” Titus took his 
stand probably over the very spot 
where these stones now spring from 
the ancient wall, to make a last ap- 
peal to the remnant of the Jews to 
save themselves from farther carnage 
by submission to the Roman arms. 
.... TZ will only add that the en- 
gravings of this arch, the southern 
gateway, and the south-eastern and 
south-western angles of the Haram, 
in Traill's ‘Josephus,’ from Tipping’s 
sketches, are as accurate as they are 
beautiful. To such as may not be able 
to enjoy the privilege of seeing with 
their own eyes, these engravings will 

(Syria and Palestine.] 


Place of Wailing. 


121 


give the best idea of what remains of 
the Jewish Temple area. 

Passing the remnants of the arch, 
we observe several courses of ancient 
masonry running up to the first group 
of buildings, which abut upon the 
Haram wall, completely covering it. 
Here stands the now well-known 
house of Abu §’afid, which is built 
partly within and partly without the 
Haram. It was doubtless the peculiar 
position of this house which caused 
the English engineers to make such a 
serious mistake in laying down the 
line of the western wall, representing 
@ projection of no less than 140 ft. 

he careful examinations of Dr. 
Robinson in 1852, tested by many 
others since that time, prove the 
whole wall to be in a straight line. 
The arguments, therefore, based by 
Mr. Williams upon the supposed pro- 
jections fall to the ground. 


The Place of Wailing. — Passing 
round the house of Abu S’afid, and 
winding through some narrow, crook- 
ed lanes, which it would be vain to 
attempt without a guide, we reach 
another most interesting section of 
the ancient wall,—the Jews’ Place of 
Wailing. There is here a small qua- 
drangular ved area between low 
houses and the Haram, from 40 to 
50 yards north of Abu S’afid’s house. 
In the wall are 5 courses of large 
bevelled stones in a fine state of pre- 
servation; though the joints in the 
lower courses are in some places much 
worn, and here and there displaced, 
probably from the kisses of genera- 
tions of mourners, and the shocks of 
successive earthquakes. Here the 
Jews have been permitted for many 
centuries to approach the precincts 
of the temple of their fathers, and 
bathe its hallowed stones with their 
tears. It is a touching scene that pre- 
sents itself to the eye of the stranger 
in this retired spot each Friday : 
Jews of both sexes, of all ages, and. 
from every quarter of the earth, aro 
there raising up a united cry of la- 
mentation over a desolated and dis- 
honoured sanctuary. Old men may 
be seen tottering up to these massive 

@ 


122 


stones, kissing them with fond rap- 
ture, burying their faces in the joints 
and cavities, while tears stream down 
their cheeks, and accents of deepest 
sorrow burst from their trembling lips. 
Well may the poor Jews repeat the 
words of the Psalmist (Ixxx. I, 4, 
5), “O God, the heathen are come into 
thine inheritance; thy holy temple 
have they defiled; they have laid 
Jerusalem on heaps. We are become 
@ reproach to our neighbours, a scora 
and derision to them that are round 
about us. How long, Lord ?, wilt thou 


be angry for ever? shall thy jealousy 
burn like fire?” . 


‘Oh! weep for those that wept by Babel's 
stream, 
Whose shrines are desolate, whose land a 


dream ; 
Weep for the of Judah’s broken shell ; 
Mourn—where t God hath dwelt the 
godless dwell !” 


At the southern end of this little 
area is a low and comparatively mo- 
dern wall, over which the adventu- 
rous explorer can easily climb. From 
it he descends into a little deserted 
court (at least it was so in 54 and 
in '57), and thence into a gloomy 
chamber in the angle between the 
Haram wall and the house to the 
south. Here, in the midst of fine 
Jewish masonry, is a huge section of 

a gateway. The lintel is 7 ft. in depth, 
and measures 16 in length to the 
place where it is covered by the wall 
of the house. This gateway is men- 
tioned by Aly Bey, who saw it from 
the interior, and says “the superior 

rtion consists of a single stone 20 ft. 

ong.” It was more recently seen b 

Dr. Barclay, and I noticed it in 1854, 
and also during the present year. 
There can scarcely be a doubt that 
this is one of the gates of the Temple 
area, most probably the second from 
the 8., which Josephus mentions as 
opening into the Suburb. The first 
gate, e states, led to the king's 
palace & passage over the inter- 
mediate valley —the bridge I have 
already described. Two more opened 
on the Suburb ; and the first of these 
is doubtless that now before us. It 
is worthy of notice that this gate is 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. . Sect. IL. 


considerably 8. of the point where 
the ancient northern wall of Zion 
would naturally join the W. side of 
the Temple ; and this serves strongly 
to corroborate the view stated above, 
that the section of the city called by 
Josephus the Suburb lay, partly at 
least, in the valley of the Tyropoon. 
To the N. of the Place of Wailing 
the wall of the Haram is completely 
covered with modern houses; but 
both Mr. Catherwood and Dr. Bar 
clay, who enjoyed many opportunities 
of peeping into houses and courtyards 
inaccessible to others, state that there 
is far more of the original Jewish 
masonry in the W. than in any other 
of the sides; and that in some places 
it rises to a height of more than 30 ft. 


Bab es-Silsilah, “the Gate of the 
Chain,” is the next point where we 
can approach the line of the ancient 
wall; and it forms the principal en- 
trance to the Haram. It is situated 
at the end of the Street of David, 
which leads through the city from 
the Yafa Gate, and is about 270 ft. 
N. of the ancient portal referred to 
above. This may probably be the 
site of the second gate opening from 
the temple area into the Suburb ; as 
in such a massive wall the old gate- 
ways would naturally be preserved. 
The present gate is double, and is 
ornamented with twisted marble co- 
lumns, and other Saracenic decora- 
tions. Just in front of it is a beautiful 
little fountain, with a wheel ornament 
over it, probably taken from some 
old church. 


At the end of a covered bazaar, 
about 270 ft. N. of the “Gate of the 
Chain,” is Bab el-Katanin, the “‘ Gate 
of the Cotton Merchants.” It is also 
purely Saracenic in its style ; and from 
an inscription over it, ap to have 
been erected, or repai in a.H. 737. 
During the time of the crusades there 
were only two gates in the W. side 
of the Haram; most probably this 
one and the precoding. They are 
both opposite the platform on which 
the great mosk stands, and afford the 
most direct access to it from the great 


PLAN OF THE TEMPLE AT JERUSALEM. 


in 
14 
KE F ge 
= : efi 
it = tat! | 
S 3 Sty 
_ inh 
Bae ER-WADHIA ~ a h 
fir] j 
3 oh 
=e 
fl 
SITE OF ANTONIA. 
t 
BAD EL-HADID 
] 


mas EL-KATANIEE fi 
e 


GATE OF ARAL ' 
| 
a 
\ 
N \ 
I 
\ 
v1— i 
Bsa Te-oLAL ' 
GATE GF SUBURE a 
| é 
- =] 
i | : 
Sy 
bh, at | COURT OF THE GENTILES. 
; coer aay 
7 43 : | 7 
LT 
~ £ eee = 
go sey 
i 
~ ¥ 
“ee & 


1. Altar of Burnt Offering. 5. Great Gate. 
2. Holy Place. 6, 6. Barrier between outer and inner 
3. Most Holy Place. Courts. 

4, 4. Gates of Women. ] 1,7. Extent of modern Platform. 


124 


body of the city, and from the citadel. 
A tradition of considerable antiquity 
identifies Bab el-Katanin with the 
Beautiful Gate of the Temple, where 
the apostles John and Peter healed 
the impotent man. (Acts iii.) On 
this account Christians are now per- 
mitted to approach it more freely 
than any other gate of the Haram. 

This may perhaps be the site of 
the gate mentioned by Josephus as 
leading to Akra, “where the road 
descended into the valley by a great 
number of steps, and thence up again 
by the ascent.” (Ané. xv. 11, 5.) It 
is not far, as we shall see, from 
the northern limits of the Temple 
area. It is worthy of particular notice 
that this gate, the Gate of the Chain, 
the gate beside the Wailing Place, 
and the fragment of the bridge, are 
at nearly equal distances—probably 
accurate measurements might show 
them to be exactly so. Does not this 
fact tend in some degree to prove 
their identity with the four western 
gates of the Temple ? 


About 180 ft. farther N. is Bab el- 
Hadid, the “Iron Gate,” apparently 
of later date than the former. Farther 
N. 250 ft. is Bab en-Nadhir, the “Gate 
of the Inspector;” where, tradition 
says, the angel Gabriel tied Moham- 
med’s winged horse Borak, on the 
night of his journey to heaven. There 
is still another small portal at the 
N.W. angle. All these gates are ap- 
proached by narrow lanes branching 
off from the street which follows the 
central valley from N. to S. 


SITE OF THE TEMPLE DETERMINED, 


Our survey of the exterior walls has 
shown us that the eastern, southern, 
and at least the lower portion of the 
western walls, have foundations of 
remote antiquity; that the western 
wall from Bab el-Katanin southwards, 
the whole of the southern wall, and 
eastern as far as the Golden Gateway, 
yun in heary unbroken lines, and ex- 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquities, 


Sect. I. 


hibit all the marks of having censti- 
tuted from a remote period one build- 
ing; that the style of architecture is 
precisely such as we learn from the 

criptures and Josephus was used by 
Solomon and his successors on the 
throne ; that the remains of the south- 
ern gates, and of the remarkable 
bridge mentioned by Josephus, still 
exist. We are therefore led to con- 
clude that this section of the Haram, 
forming nearly a square, is identical 
with the platform of the ancient 
Temple. 

Both Josephus and the Talmud 
describe the Temple area as a square, 
of which each side measured, accord- 
ing to the former a stadium, accord- 
ing to the latter 500 cubits. The 
Greek stadium was about 204 yards; 
but the length of the Jewish cubit 
is very uncertain, though it is gene- 
rally thought to have been 21 inches. 
Josephus, therefore, gives each side 
of the area at 612 ft.; and the writers 
in the Talmud at 873 ft. Is it not 
probable that both were mere ap- 
proximates from memory? However 
this may be, there can be little doubt 
that the area, to the eye, presented 
the appearance of a square. Now the 
br th of the Haram is, as we have 
seen, 926 ft., and its length to the 
south side of the Golden Gate 1018 ft.; 
if we draw a line across it, at right 
angles to the Golden Gate, we have 
@ section on the S. which in all pro- 
bability corresponded to the Temple 
area. It isnot a square, but it would 
be called so in popular language. The 
northern line thus indicated, as may 
be seen from the accompanying plan, 
falls about 150 ft. N. of the great 
mosk, and about the same distance 
N. of Bab el-Katanin. 


| 


We shall now examine more care- | 


fully the interior of this section, with 
a view to identify the site of the 
temple itself, or Naos, and of the se- 
veral courts and cloisters by which it 


was encompassed. The general out- | 
line of the building, as described by | 
and — 


Josephus, has already been given, 
e l 


must be kept in mind. earn 


farther from the Talmud that the © 
holy house itself stood in the north- | 


JERUSALEM. 


western part of the enclosure. “The 
greatest space was on the §.; the next 
on the E.; the next on the N.; and 
the last on the W.”—That is to say, 
the building was in the north-western 
but, the length of it being from 

. to E., the space left next the 
western wall was less than that on 
the N. This description, which ap- 
pears to agree with some incidental 
notices of Josephus, is most import- 
ant; it is just such as the form of 
the site, compared with the statement 
of Josephus that the Naos was erected 
on the rocky summit, would lead us 
to expect” Toward the north-western 
angle of the section described, be- 
neath the dome of the great mosk, 
is the _ projecting crown of Moriah— 
a broad irregular mass of limestone 
rock; over which, as marking the 
site of their former Temple, the Jews 
were accustomed to wail during the 
4th century. This rock has been also, 
ever since the city was captured by 
Omar, one of the most venerated 
spots of Muslem tradition and devo- 
tion. Even the Christians of the 
middle ages believed it to be the 
Place over which the destroying angel 
stood when about to smite Jerusalem. 
It occupies the greater part of the 
space beneath the dome; it is about 
60 ft. across and 5 high; in a few 
places are the marks of chiselling. 
At the §8.E. side is an irre ex- 
cavated chamber, averaging about 7 ft. 
in height, This, Mohammedans af- 
firm, was the praying-place of Abra- 
ham, David, Bolomen and Jesus; 
and they call it “the Noble Cave.” 
Within are two small marble altars ; 
that on the rt. hand as you descend 
the steps is called Makam Suleiman, 
and that on the left Makim Dafd; 
a niche on the §.W. is called Makam 

* Tbrahim, and another at the N.W. 
Makam Jibrail. A small stone altar 
at the N.E. angle is dedicated to 
Elias. In the centre of the roof is 
a cylindrical aperture, through the 
whole thickness of the rock; and be- 
neath it we may observe a small slab 
of marble, covering, it is said, a deep 
cavity, to which Muslems give the 
name Bir el-Arwdéh, “the Well of 


Site of Temple. 


125 


Spirits.” Some say it is the gate of 
Paradise, others the door of Hell. 
The following description given by 
the author of the ‘Jerusalem Iti- 
nerary,, who visited the city in A.D. 
333, is worthy of special notice in 
connexion with this rock and cave. 
“‘There are in Jerusalem two great 
ponds at the side of the Temple, one 
on the rt., and the other on the left, 
made by Solomon. There is there 
also a crypt where Solomon tortured 
the demons. There is there also 
(connected with the Temple) a corner 
tower of great height. There are there 
also immense subterranean reservoirs 
of water, and tanks constructed with 
great labour ; and in the very site (in 
aede ipsa) where the Temple stood 
which Solomon built.... are two sta- 
tues of Hadrian. And not far distant 
from these statues is a pierced rock, 
to which the Jews come every year, 
and anoint it with oil, wailing and 
rending their garments.” (Itin. Hier., 
ed. Wess., pp. 590-2.) We thus see 
that early in the 4th centy. the true 
site of the Temple was well known to 
the Jews; and the mention of the 
pierced rock enables us at once, when 
connected with other circumstances, 
to identify the precise place. The 
“sacred rock” of the Muslems is the 
same which was revered by the Jews. 
Jerome too informs us that the statue 
of Hadrian had been placed on the 
site of the ‘“‘ Most Holy Place.” 

This singular projecting pierced 
rock we may thus safely assume to 
be the “threshing-floor of Araunah 
the Jebusite,” where David sacrificed, 
and which became afterwards the site 
of the great altar of burnt-offering. 
(1 Chron. xxii. 1.) We learn from 
the Middoth (a tract of the Mishna 
which treats of the Temple) that at the 
south-eastern horn of the great altar 
was a spot in the pavement where a 
ring was fixed in a slab, beneath 
which was an opening to a cave for 
the purpose of cleansing the drain 
around the altar, and receiving the 
blood. So then the “ Noble Cave” 
was just the cesspool of the altar 
of burnt-offering. The immense num- 
ber of victims often sacrificed at one 


126 


time would evidently need some such 
arrangement. The altar was 32 cubits 

uare, and thus covered nearly the 
whole surface of the rock. 

The position of the great altar 
being determined, we can easily ap- 
proximate to the places of the naos 
and ‘the courts. To attempt anything 
more than an approximation would be 
useless. The measurements given in 
Josephus and the Middoth are con- 
fased, and sometimes contradictory ; 
but the accompanying plan will show 
the relative positions of the several 
places. The altar of burnt-offering 
was in front of the naos eastward ; 
and none but priests were permitted 
to enter the small court containing 
these two. Without this, and lower 
than it, was the court for the men; 
and beyond it, eastward, the women’s 
court. These were encircled by a 
high wall, and stood on a platform 
from which steps led down, without 
the wall, to the outer court. This 
platform probably coincided pretty 
nearly with the southern section of 
that on which the great mosk now 
stands. The outer court, occupying 
by far the greater part of the whole 
area, was a place of common resort— 
a park, in fact, for the people of Jeru- 
salem, and for strangers visiting the 
city. It was from it the Saviour drove 
a money-changers and merchants. 

Matt. xxi. 12,18.) Into it opened the 
four gates from the city on the W., 
and the double gateway from Ophel 
on the 8., the long passage from the 
latter penetrating underneath the 
“royal porch” to the centre of the 
court. One striking feature of this 
court was that it was almost wholly, 
if not wholly, artificial ; the platform 
being supported by massive exterior 
walls, and the space within them 
partly filled up with earth, and partly 
sustained on piers and arches. 


The Vaults.—-The piers and arches 
supporting the Haram area form exten- 
sive vaults, which were partly ex- 
plored and measured by Catherwood, 
and more recently by Dr. Barclay. 
The only known entrance to them at 
present 1s at the south-eastern commer, 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquites. Sect. I. 


where a small dome is seen from a 
great distance overtopping the wall. 

neath it a flight of steps leads down 
to a square subterraneous chamber, in 
the middle of which, laid on the floor, 
is a sculptured niche, in the form of a 
sarcop with a canopy over it: 
it is called the “cradle of Jesus.’ 
From it is a descent by another stair- 
case to a spacious t, containing, 
so far as has yet been explored, 15 
rows of square pillars, measuring about 
5 ft. on each side, and constructed of 
massive bevelled stones qiisced singly 
one over the other. he intervais 
between the rows are usually, though 
not uniformly, regular ; and the pillars 
of some of the ranges are of a larger 
size. In each row the pillars are con- 
nected by semicircular arches ; while 
the vault intervening between the 
rows is formed by a lower arch—a 
segment of a circle. From the en- 
trance at the 8.E. corner, for about 
120 ft. westward, the ranges extend 
northward about 200 ft., where they 
are shut up by a modern wall. For 
about 150 ft. farther W. the vaults are 
closed up in like manner at less than 
100 ft. from the southern wall ; and to 
judge from the wells and openings in 
the area above ground, they seem to 
have been walled up, that the northern 
portion of them might be converted 
into cisterns. Beyond this to- 
ward the W., they again extend 60 ft., 
where they are terminated by a wall 
filling up the intervals of one of the 
rows ofcolumns. They thus terminate 
about 150 ft. east of the mosk el- 
Aksa. How much farther they ran 
westward is now unknown. I believe 
Dr. Barclay could find no entrance to 
vaults W. of those now described. 
There can be little doubt, however, 
that they extend to the western wall. 
The natural surface of the hill rises 
rapidly towards the N.; the columns 
on the S. are thus about 35 ft. high, 
while those on the N. are not more 
than 10. In the long passage above 
described as running from the southern 
gate, underneath the mosk el-Aksa, 
is @ door, now walled up, opening to 
the eastward, which in all probability 
led into the vaults. In the 8.W. cor- 


JERUSALEM. 


ner of the Haram, in and around the 
mosks of Abu Bekr and the Mug- 
h&ribeh, are several deep wells which 
may be erypts now converted into cis- 


As to the age of these vaults, the 
style and massive proportions of the 
masonry seem to prove that they are 
eoeval with the oldest part of the ex- 
ternal walls. We know besides that 
the whole platform was constructed 
long an ent to the age of Herod ; 
and it is difficult to see how these 
could have been erected after the con- 
struction of the platform. They may 
have been repaired, some of them per- 
haps rebuilt, by him, and some repairs 
may have been made at a still later 
period ; but the design and masonry 
of the piers point to a much earlier 
date. We have no reason to think 
that Herod ever touched the founda- 
tions of the Temple area, except per- 
hape to make a subterranean passage 
tq it from the tower of Antonia. 

But it has been strongly urged by 
recent writers that an objection to the 
Jewish origin of these vaults is found 
in the silence of the Jewish historian 
regarding them. A similar objection 
might be brought against many other 
antiquities. Still it is as well to exa- 
mine Josephus with care to see whether 
he is altogether silent on the subject. 
“After the investment of the city by 
Titus,” he writes in one place, “a tu- 
mult arose in the Temple during the 
feast of unleavened bread. The party 
of the tyrant John gut possession, by 
stratagem, of the fane (naos), or holy 
house itself; and in the confusion 
which ensued, many leaping down 
from the battlements took refuge in 
the subterranean vaults of the Temple 
area.” (B. J. v. 3,1.) In like man- 
ner, after the capture of the city, the 
tyrant Simon, who with others endea- 
voured to make his escape by subter- 
ranean passages from Zion, being foiled 
in the attempt, suddenly appeared 
from the ground in white on the place 
where the Temple had stood, in the 
vain hope of terrifying the . 
These accounts imply that there were 
here vaults and passages underground 
of considerable extent. The Roman 


Temple Vaults. 


127 


historian, Tacitus, also can only refer 
to these vaults when he speaks of 
templum in modum arcis, fons perennis 
aqus, cavati sub terra montes, et pisci- 
NH Ci e servandis imbribus. “A 
temple like a citadel; a perennial 
fountain ; mountains hollowed out be- 
neath; and both tanks and cisterns for 
rain-water.” 
Another objection to the Jewish 
origin of these vaults is based on the 
statements of Procopius, and it re- 
uires notice here not only because of 
e apparently clear and full account 
of them given by this historian, but 
also because a large number both of 
scholars and architects have deemed 
the objection conclusive. Procopius 
ascribes the whole of these substruc- 
tions, exterior walls, vaults, and pas- 
to Justinian. That emperor 
erected a ch., in honour of the Virgin, 
of great extent and splendour; and it 
must be admitted that the story of its 
erection, as given by Procopius, would 
lead to the conclusion that the massive 
stones in the outer walls, and inner 
iers, were all quarried, hewn, and 
uilt up by Justinian’s skilful work- 
men—tf we could only believe it. I 
think, however, there is sufficient 


prima facie evidence to show that the 


whole narrative must be classed with 
those Arabic inscriptions found in 
such numbers in this land, which 
ascribe the erection of almost every 
monument of antiquity to some sultan 
or emir of the middle ages. Every 
man who repaired a ding is, in 
these laudatory inscriptions, said to 
have erected it. Procopius wrote some- 
thing in this style. Justinian Probably 
repaired the substructions of the an- 
cient temple-enclosure. The debased 
Corinthian columns, and patchwork 
ornament stuck on the southern gate- 
way, are his. They are of that era. 
But it would be a strange anomaly to 
ascribe to him the massive bevelled 
masonry of the external walls, inter- 
nal ges, and pillars. None, I 
think, who carefully examine them, 
and compare them with other monu- 
ments, will venture to do so. Pro- 
copius was a royal favourite—historio- 
grapher to the court; and there is 


128 


every reason to believe that his work, 
De Aidificiis Justinian, was strongly 
seasoned with fiattery. ; 


The Cloisters of the Temple.—Along 
the whole southern side of the outer 
court extended the noble cloisters of 
Herod—the Stoa Basilica. This was 
one ‘of the most remarkable of all 
Herod’s magnificent works; and its 
position, stretching from valley to 
valley along the summit of the massive 
wall, must have rendered it an object of 
striking grandeur from almost every 
point of view in and around the city. 
It consisted of 4 rows of Corinthian 
columns, forming a central nave and 
side aisles. Each aisle was 30 ft. wide 
and 50 high; while the nave mea- 
sured 45 ft. wide and 100 in height, 
thus rising into a clerestory of un- 
usually large proportions. The shafts 
of the columns were monoliths of white 
marble; and the roofs of cedar elabo- 
rately carved. Some idea may be 
formed of the plan and appearance of 
this structure by a glance at the in- 
terior of Santa Maria Maggiore, at 
Rome, but the latter is less than one- 
third of its length. The nave of these 
cloisters was exActly opposite the 
bridge leading from Zion to the Tem- 
ple area, and corresponded with it in 

readth, as may be seen by a com- 
parison of the site and breadth of the 
ruined bridge with the measurements 
of Josephus. 

Along the eastern side of the Temple 
court extended Solomon’s Porch, where 
Jesus was wont to walk (John x. 23), 
and where the multitude crowded 
round Peter and John after they had 
cured the lame man (Acts iii. 11). 
This porch, or stoa, consisted of a 
double range of cloisters, between 3 
rows of columns. It was of great 
height, and its commanding position 
on the eastern brow of Moriah, over 
the deep valley of the Kidron, made 
it look still more so. There were also 
ranges of cloisters along the other two 
sides, but Josephus does not speak 
specially of them. 

Such then was the position, and 
such the arrangement, of t the Temple 
and its courts, so far as we are able to | 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


understand the descriptions of ancient 
authors when compared with the site. 
The appearance of the whole structure 
must have been strikingly grand. The 
lofty massive wall supporting noble 
colonnades; the inner court nsing in 
regular and richly ornamented terraces 
above the outer; the golden fane 
overtopping them all,—formed a group 
seldom surpassed, and amply justifying 
the glowing descriptions of the Jewish 
historian. The general plan resem- 
bled that of the great Temple of the 
Sun at Palmyra, and that of Damascus 
was probably similar. The temple at 
Ba’albek had also a cloistered court, 
which was supported on substructions 
still more massive than those at Je- 
em. 


$41. Toe FoRTRESS OF ANTONIA. 


We have as yet only disposed of a 
section of the Haram, and the reader 
will naturally inquire, “Is it not all 
ancient ?’’ “ t building then occu- 
pied the northern section?” Josephus 
answers, “The fortress of Antonia ”’ 
(Ant. xv. 11, 4). This, of course, like 
every other site, has been a subject of 
long and learned controversy, but to 
me the matter seems so clear and con- 
clusive that I feel no hesitation in 
following Dr. Robinson. As there has 
been so much argument upon the 
question, I may give here a brief sum- 
mary of the grounds upon which it is 
made to cover the whole extent of the 
Haram N. of that section occupied by 
the temple. 

Nehemiah mentions a palace, or 
rather fortress, 7°32, “which apper 
tained to the Temple ” (ii. 8); and in 
this Hebrew word Birah we have pro- 
bably the origin of the Greek Baris, 
Bapis, which, Josephus tells us, was 
the name of the fortress subsequently 
called Antonia. It was erected, or 
rebuilt, by the princes of the Asmonean 
family, probably by Judas Maccabeeus, 
when he restored and cleansed the 
Temple and built a wall round it (B.c. 
164). It may have been again re- 


Sect. II, 


JERUSALEM. 


ired and enlarged by Simon (3.c, 
140) ; but it was Herod the Great who 
finally constructed it with such splen- 
dour as is described by Josephus. 

According to this historian, Antonia 
was the fortress of the Temple, as the 
Temple was of the city. It stood upon 
the N.sideof the Temple area, r&é Bopely 
xAluar: Tou lepsu, not rud vaov. “The 
general appearance was that of a 
tower, with other towers at each of 
the 4 corners, 3 of which were 50 
cubits high, while that at the S.E. 
angle rose to an elevation of 70 cubits, 
so that from thence there was a com- 
plete view of the Temple” (B. J. v. 
5, 8). It was thus a quadrangular 
structure, and Josephus farther in- 
forms us that within it had all the 
extent and arrangements of a palace; 
apartments of every kind, courts sur- 
rounded with porticoes, baths, and 
broad open spaces for encampments; 
“so that its various conveniences gave 
it the appearance of a town, and its 
magnificence that of a palace. Where 
it joined the colonnades of the Temple 
area, it had passages leading down to 
both, through which the guards de- 
scended, and disposed themselves 
about the cloisters in arms, at the 
festivals, to watch the people.” 
appears also to have had an acropolis, 
axpémoAXis eyywuas, upon a rock at the 
N.W. corner of the Temple, which was 
also called a tower (xUpyos); whereas 
Antonia, as a whole, is never spoken 
of but as a fortress (ppodptov). The 
rock on which the acropolis stood was 
50. cubits high, and was covered over 
from: the, base to the top with hewn 
stones. Antonia was detached from 
the hill Bezetha, which lay on its 
northern side, by a fosse of immetise 
depth, excava so as to cut off all 
communication, and to make the battle- 
ments more elevated. 

“Along with the preceding de- 
scription of Antonia, it is likewise to 
be borne in mind (says Dr. Robinson) 
that the area of Solomon’s temple was 
originally a square, measuring a sta- 
dium on each side, or four stadia in 
circuit; which circuit was enlarged 
by Herod to siz stadia, including An- 
tonia; thus enclosing double the 


: Fortress of Antonia. . 


It. 


129 


former area, or two square stadia in- 
stead of one. From this account it 
would strictly follow that the area 
of Antonia also was a square measur- 
ing a stadium on each side. But as° 
Josephus was writing at Rome, with- 
out actual measurements, and after 
an absence of many years from Jeru- 
salem, the statement can be regarded 
only as a general estimate expressed 
in a popular form. It may also be 
remembered that, according to the 
measurements already given, the pre- 
sent Haram area is 1529 ft. in length 
from S. to N., by about 926 in 
breadth; thus having on the N. an 
extension of about 600 ft. more than 
@ square. It is not necessary, how- 
ever, to suppose that the Temple 
enclosure formed an exact mathema- 
tical square; for in an area of such 
extent, even if the length were much 
greater than the breadth, it would 
still in popular language be called a 
square.” 

It appears also, from many inci- 
dental notices in Josephus, that the 
Temple and this fortress were regarded 
as one building. When Pompey at- 
tacked the Temple on the N., the 
fortress was standing, and the deep 
fosse which separated it from Bezetha 
is spoken of; but the whole structure 
is called “the Temple.” So also there 
was an old oracle which stated that 
“the city and Temple would be cap- 
tured when the Temple should be- 
come four-square ;” and this the Jews 
believed fulfilled when Antonia was 
taken and destroyed; and farther, Jo- 
sephus in speaking of the cloisters of 
the Temple area says that “their en- 
tire circuit, including Antonia, mea- 
sured six stadia.” 

All these things tend to prove that 
the fortress of Antonia occupied the 
whole northern section of the Haram ; 
and new light is thus thrown on the 
very interesting remains still existing. 
The projecting cock at the N.W. 
angle, beneath the palace, is the site 
of the “ Tower of the Corner,” or ci- 
tadel of Antonia. The deep trench 
called the “Pool of Bethesda” is a 
portion of that “fosse of infinite 
depth’ which separated the fortress 

a 3 


130 


from Bereths. The massive founda- 
tions at the N.E. angle belonged to 
one of the corner towers of Antonia. 
The projection at the Golden Gate 
marks the site of the great tower at 
the 8.E. of the fortress, whose height 
was 70 cubits, and which overlooked 
the whole Temple courte. The huge 
bevelled stones belonged to the an- 
cient Baris of the Maccabees, and 
formed a part rhaps, of the fortress 
Birah, of which Nehemiah speaks. 
The whole area, 500 ft. long by nearly 
1000 broad, is not too large for the 
cloistered courts, baths, barracks, and 
royal chambers described by Jose- 
phus. 


§ 42. Subsequent history of the plat- 
form of Moriah—At what Mime, and 
in what way, the ancient area of the 
Temple and Antonia assumed the form 
of the present Haram is unknown. 
Titus left the whole a mass of scorched 
and smoking ruins. The acropolis 
of Antonia was razed to its founda- 
tions by the Romans, in order to ob- 
tain more space for the mounds erected 
against the Temple ; and then perhaps 
a section of the very rock on which it 
was founded was cut away, as we see 
| it at the present time. Some 50 years 
after the destruction of the city by 
. Titus, the emperor Adrian rebuilt and 
. fortified it; and erected a splendid 
_ temple to Jupiter on the site of the 
Jewish Temple, setting up an eques- 
trian statue of himself on the very 
spot formerly known as the “Hol 
of Holies.” This statue was still stand- 
ing in the days of Jerome, late in the 
4th centy. The author of the Jerw- 
salem Itinerary saw it in the year A.D. 
333; and Jerome himself, residing so 
long at Bethlehem, must have been 
personally familiar with all the anti- 

uities in and around the Holy City. 
tt is probable that Adrian levelled 
off the great platform as it now ap- 
pears. The Golden Gate may be of 
this era, though Mr. Fergusson states 
that it could not have been erected 
rior to the time of Constantine. It 
the marks, however, of different 
ages; and this can only be accounted 
for by supposing it to have been re- 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


modelled and repaired long subse- 
quent to its original construction. We 

ve no account in ancient history 
of any building having been erected 
by Constantine, or during the 4th 
centy., on the Temple mount. 


§ 43. The Mosk el-Aksa.—About 
the middle of the 6th centy. the em- 
r Justinian built a magnificent 
basili ica in Jerusalem in honour of 
the Virgin. Procopius’ account of its 
construction, and the theories founded 
upon it, have already been referred 
to. (§ 40.) His description of the 
site and plan of the building appears 
to justify us in concluding that the 
church of Justinian was identical 
with the present Mosk el-Aksa. This 
mosk stands close to the 8S. wall, and 
near the S.W. corner of the Haram. 
It has been universally regarded by 
Oriental Christians and Frank Catho- 
lics as a ch. of the Virgin; and all 
travellers, artista, and architects, with 
the single exception, I believe, of Mr. 
Fergusson, have concurred in this 
opinion. Procopius represents it as 
placed upon the loftiest hill of the 
city, where there was not space enough 
to allow of the prescribed dimensions, 
so that they were obliged to lay the 
foundations on the 8.E. side, at the 
bottom of the hill, and build up a 
wall with arched vaults to support 
that part of the building. The stones 
in the foundations were of great size. 
They were hewn from the mountains 
“which rise to an extraordinary height 
immediately before the city,” and, 
being akilfall y dressed, were carried 
to their places as follows. “ First, 
they made wagons of a size equal to 
the rocks, an placed @ single stone 
on each; then forty oxen, chosen by 
the emperor's order for their excel- 
lence, drew the stone to the destined 
spot.” We see at once from these 
remarks that the writer described 
wholly from report, or else he would 
not have represented the ch. as on 
the top of the highest hill of the city. 
Having heard of the massive su 
structions, he, either from ignorance, 
or for the sake of flattering his royal 
master, ascribed them to the emperor, 


Sect. II. 


JERUSALEM. 


and garnished his story with the ac- 
count of the wagons and oxen. The 
exact form of the ch. as first erected 
cannot now be easily made out. 

This ch. esca destruction when 
the city was sacked by the Persians 
under Chosroes II. In a.p. 636, when 
the khalif Omar took Jerusalem, it 
appears to be referred to under the 
name of the Church of the Resurrec- 
tion. The khalif, when in search of the 
site of the Temple, was led to it by 
the patrigrch Sophronius, and prayed 
in it—the place where he prayed is 
still shown. Nearly 14 centy. later 
el-Mahdi, the 3rd khalif of the Abas- 
sides, found it in ruins, and ordered 
it to be rebuilt. The mosk was then 
narrow and long, but its length was 
diminished, and its breadth increased, 
by the Arab architects. On the cap- 
ture of the city by the crusaders it 
again became a Christian temple, and 
was called, somewhat vaguely, Pala- 
tium, Porticus, seu T Solomonis, 
“the Palace, Porch, or Temple of 


Solomon ;” and these names it re- 
tained among Franks down to the 
16th centy. A part of it was assigned 


by Baldwin II. to a new military or- 
der, who from this circumstance took 
the name of Knights Templars. The 
king himself appears to have inha- 
bited it for a time. The Templars 
built a wall in front of the great 
Mihrab, and used it as a granary ; but 
the whole was remodelled and purified 
Saladin 


The mosk el-Aksa has the form 
of a basilica of seven aisles. It is 
272 ft. long by 184 wide, over all, 
thus covering about 50,000 square ft., 
or a8 much space as many of our 
great cathedrals. It has a porch, ap- 
parently of later date. The arches 
of the three middle compartments are 
filled in with light columns, with plain 
cushion capitals; the central arch, 
though pointed, has the Norman zig- 

ornament. This porch was pro- 
bably the work of the Frank kings. 
“The interior is supported,” says 
Mejr ed-Din, “by 45 columns, 83 of 
which are marble, and 12 common 
stone.” The columns and piers are 
very irregular in size and architec- 


Mosk el- Aksa. 


131 


tural character ; some being evidently 
Roman, while others are Saracenic. 
At the southern extremity is a beau- 
tiful. dome, under which stands the 
gallery for the singers, and an ela- 

rately carved pulpit made by order 
of Nfreddin, and placed here after 
his death by his successor Saladin, 
A.H. 564. In the 8. wall, E. of the 
pulpit, is the great Mihrdb, said to be 
the spot where Omar prayed. On the 
W. side of the mosk is a large section 
partitioned off and appropriated to 
women. Mejr ed-Din says it was 
erected by the Fatimites; and it is 
not improbable that they, deriving 
their name from the daughter of the 
Prophet, would thus honour the gen- 
tler sex. In the S.E. angle of the 
building a door opens into the Mosk 
of Omar, a plain room 85 ft. long. 
Attached to the latter is another 
chamber called the Mosk of the Forty 
Prophets. Opposite to the Mosk of 
Omar, on the W. side, is that of Abu 
Bekr—200 ft. long by 55 broad. Down 
the centre runs a row of 8 piers sup- 
porting the vaulted roof. At right 
angles to the latter building stands 
the Mosk of the Mugharibeh, and in 
one of its rooms is shown the first 
inble’, or “prayer-niche,” erected by 

mar, 


Just within the great door of the 
mosk el-Aksa, on the E., is a well 
called the “Well of the Leaf,” con- 
nected with which is a singular tra- 
dition. The Prophet said on a certain 
occasion, “One of my followers will 
enter Paradise walking, while yet 
alive.” It so happened that in the 
days of Omar some of the Faithful 
came to Jerusalem to pray. One of 
them went to this well to draw water, 
but while doing so his bucket fell to 
the bottom. e went down to get it, 
and, to his great rise, found there 
a door opening into delicious gardens. 
Having walked through them for a 
time, he plucked a leaf from one of 
the trees, stuck it behind his ear, and 
hastened back to tell his companions. 
The matter was reported to the go- 
vernor, who sent his servants with the 
stranger to see these remarkable sub- 
terranean gardens; but no door coul” 


182- 


be found. Omar was written to, and he 
at once replied that the prophecy of 
Mohammed was now literally fulfilled, 
because a living man had walked into 
Paradise. To test the matter and 
settle all doubts, he desired them to 
examine the leaf, and, if it still re- 
mained green and fresh, there could 
be no doubt that it came from Para- 
dise. The leaf of course had pre- 
served its verdure, and the well is 
still called the “ Well of the Leaf.” 


_§ 44, Kubbet es-Sukhrah, or “The 
- Dome of the Rock.”’—This is by far 
the most beautiful, and, on account of 
its site, the most interesting building 
in the Holy City. Crowning the very 
summit of Moriah, its eful pro- 
portions and noble dome strike the 
eye from afar; but when from the 
brow of Olivet we look down on its 
cloistered courts, carpeted with ver- 
dure, dotted with arches, and colon- 
nades, and miniature cupolas, and tall 
cypresses — the building itself rising 
proudly over all, glittering in the 
sunlight and reflecting every colour 
of the rainbow—we feel we are in- 
deed in that gorgeous East which 
fancy pictured when we used to revel 
in the Arabian Nighis. 

The common story of the origin of 
this mosk is, that the khalif Omar, 
after taking the city, inquired where 
the Jewish Temple stood. After some 


search, he was conducted by the Pa-. 


triarch to the celebrated rock ee- 
Sukhrah, then covered over with filth 
and rubbish, in scorn of the Jews. 
This rock he himself helped to cleanse, 
and then built over it the mosk still 
existing. But Arab historians inform 
us that the khalif Abd el-Melek re- 
built the mosk, after a design of his 
own; that it was commenced in A.D. 
686; that vast sums of money were 
expended on its decoration; and that 
the outside of the dome was covered 
with plates of gold! Their accounts 
are so confused, and their descrip- 
tions so vague, that it is difficult, if 
not impossible, to determine where 
the original mosk of Omar really 
stood. Some say 8. of the Sukhrah, 
and identify it with the little mosk 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect, IT, 


now called by the khalif’s name, on 
the E. side of el-Aksa. But, how-. 
ever that may be, there can be no 
reasonable doubt that the great mosk 
of Abd el-Melek was built over the 
sacred Rock, and was identical to a 

eat extent with that now existing. 
During the temporary rule of the cru- 
sading kings, a regular chapter of 
canons was established in this mosk, 
now converted into a Christian ch., 
and they were endowed with all the 


privileges belonging to cathgprals in 
the West. A choir and altar were 
erected, within the building, over the 
sacred rock, which itself was covered 
with marble. The historians of the 
Crusades all speak of the Great Mosk 
as Templum Domini, and they accu- 
rately describe its form as well as 
that of the rock within, (Wil. Tyr. 
in Gesta Dei, p. 748.) 

The Kubbet es-Sukhrah is octa- 
gonal, each side measuring 67 ft. 
The lower part of the wall is com- 
posed of various- coloured marbles, 
arranged in intricate patterns, such as 
are commonly seen in the houses of 
Damascus. The upper part is pierced 
with 56 pointed windows, filled with 
stained glass of a brilliancy equal to 
some of the finest specimens in our 
western cathedrals, The piers sepa> 
rating the windows are covered ex- 
ternally with glazed tiles of bright 
colours and intricate arabesque pat- 
terns, and the circular wall support- 
ing the dome is similarly adorned. 
The walls are still further ornamented 


by two lines of beautifully interlaced 


Arabic inscriptions, encircling the 
whole building, forming a literary if 
not a classical cornice; and by shorter 
sentences in panels over the windows. 
The letters are wrought, like the 
other patterns, in the tiles. The dome, 
of a peculiarly light and graceful form, 
is covered with lead and surmounted 
by a tall gilt crescent. Four doors, 
facing the cardinal points, open to 
the interior; those on the E., N., and 
W. have marble enclosed porches; 
while that on the §8., the principal 
one, has an open porch supported on 
marble columns. The interior is 148 
ft. in diameter. <A corridor, 13 ft. 


JERUSALEM. 


wide, runs round it, having on its 
inner side 8 piers and 16 marble Co- 
rinthian columns, connected above by 
“a horizontal architectrave, under 
pointed arches. The columns do not 
seem to occupy their original places, 
as some of them have neither base- 
moulding nor plinth. They doubt- 
Jess belonged to other structures— 
perhaps to the Temple of. Hadrian, or 
the colonnades of Herod. Within 
these is another corridor, 30 ft. wide, 
having on its inner side a circle of 
12 larger Corinthian columns, and 4 
great piers, which together support 
the central dome, 66 f. in diameter. 
These pillars are connected by arches, 
over which rise the clerestory and 
dome. The whole interior of walls 
and dome is ornamented in gilt stucco 
in the arabesque style. The dome is 
of wood, and directly under it is the 
celebrated rock from which the mosk 
takes its name. 

I do not think it necessary here to 
do more than simply refer to the sin- 
gular theory of Mr. Fergusson, that 
this is the identical circular ch. raised 
over the sepulchre of our Lord by 
Constantine! His arguments, founded 
on the style of architecture, are in- 
genious and. clever, though scarcely 
convincing; but his historical notices 
do not bear criticiam. Those who 
desire to study the question may con- 
sult his ‘Essay on the Ancient Topo- 
graphy of Jerusalem,’ and the reply to 
it in Williams's ‘ Holy City,’ 2nd edi- 

on. 

The Mohammedan traditions con- 
nected with this mosk and the seve- 
ral parts of the Haram are very 
numerous; but in general so silly 
and devoid of interest as not to be 
worth recording. One writer, for in- 
stance, affirms that “all the water on 
earth comes from under the Sukhrah, 
which is a marvel (he adds), because, 
being itself without support on any 
side, it is supported only by Him who 
supports the heavens!” On the 8. 
side of the Rock is shown the foot- 
mark of the Prophet—there impressed 
when he mounted the renowned 
Borak for his nocturnal journey to 
heaven. The rock, in acknowledg- 


Objects of Interest in the Haram. 


133: 


ment of the distinguished honour, 
bowed to the Prophet; and on the 
opposite side the faithful still see the 
finger-prints of the angels who aided 
the pious rock in making its obei- 
sance 


§ 45. Principal objects of interest in the 
Haram. 

As the sacred enclosure was opened 
in 1856 to travellers, on the payment 
of 11. each, I think it best to give here 
in one connected view an account of 
all that is worthy of notice, before 
proceeding to the remaining Jewish 
antiquities. During the present sea- 
son the Haram was again shut, but it 
is to be hoped the prohibition to enter 
it is only temporary. 

Entering by the Gate of the Chain 
(§ 40), we have on the I. a long range 
of cloisters, built in the 14th centy., 
with square pillars and pointed arches, 
bounding a great part of the area on 
this side. The adjoining buildings 
are occupied as colleges of derwishes 
and public schools. Facing the gate 
is a small but richly ornamented 
cupola, called the Dome of Moses,— 
not the Lawgiver; it was built in 
A.H. 647. Beyond it is the wall sup- 
porting the western side of the central 
platform. Turning northward along 
the open space between the cloisters 
and platform, we pass several prayer- 
stations, and on reaching the northern 
end we observe a section of the mas- 
sive ancient wall on the 1. while 
before us is the scarped rock on which 
the citadel of Antonia stood (§ 41), 
The tall minaret attached to the 
Serai was built in the year 1298. 
Turning eastward, the graceful little 
dome of Solomon is before us, said by 
Muslem tradition to mark the spot 
where he stood to pray after he had 
finished the Temple ; it is nearly op- 
posite the Gate Dawatar. In the N.E. 
corner there is nothing worthy of 
notice. The first little building along 
the eastern wall is called the Throne 
of Solomon; next follows the Golden 


7 es 


134 

Gate, projec far into the grassy 
court t 40). m hence we cross 
the open space on the eastern side of 
the platform, ascend the “steps of 
Borak,” pass through the beautiful 
Saracenic arches at the top, and stand 
on the marble pavement that encom- 
passes the Great Mosk. Before us 
now is one of the most beautiful little 
cupolas in the whole Haram— Kubbet 
es-Silsilah, “the Dome of the Chain ;” it 
was built by the khalif Abd el-Melek, 
some say as @ model for the “Dome 
of the k.” It is supported by 17 
slender marble columns. Tradition 
affirms that the Prophet here got his 
first peep at the enchanting houris of 
Paradise; and, this was erected as a 
kind of Temple of Love, in which the 
“faithful” might meditate on the 
raptures awaiting them. It some- 
times gets another name not quite so 
encouraging—the Dome of J udgment; 
from the fact or belief that the judg- 
ment-seat of King David occupied the 
spot; and that here, too, the balance 
of Justice will be suspended on the 

- last day. 

Passing round to the rt. we come 
to the long flight of steps at the N.W. 
corner of the platform, to see the spot 
where our patron saint, George (Ara- 
bicé el-Khudr), prayed, and perchance 
to take a look into the “Cave of 
Spirits” on the opposite side. Turn- 
ing southward along the platform, the 
first little cupola we come to marks 
the place from which the Prophet 
began his ascent to Paradise on that 
famous night; and close to it on the 
S. is a Masjad where the angels gave 
him the necessary instructions for his 
journcy. We may now enter the 
great mosk by the western door, and 
turn back to § 44 for a full descrip- 
tion. 

Having completed our examination, 
we pase out of the southern door and 

straight along the broad path to 
el-Aksa. On our rt., just before de- 
scending from the platform, we see 
the Minbar or“ pulpit,” a perfect gem 
of Arab architecture, built by Burhan 
ed-Din Kady, a.H. 798; opposite it, on 
the 1., is a small cupola called the 
Dome of the Roll, to which are at- 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


tached many singular traditions; but, 
as Mejr ed-Din says, “Ullah only 
knows the truth!” On approaching 
the beautiful Gothic porch of el-Aksa, 
we pass a fine marble fountain— 


“ But the stream has shrunk from its marbie 


Where the weeds and the desolate dust 
are spread.” 


Beneath this is a very large subter- 
raneous reservoir, into which, Dr. 
Barclay states, the water from the 
Pools of Soloman is (was) conveyed. 
“It is nearly 50 ft. deep, and inter- 
spersed with little islands of rock, 
upon which similarshaped tapering 
rock-work has been raised to sup- 
port the ground above. Some dis- 
tance farther and within a few feet of 
the great door of el-Aksa is the en- 
trance to the passage leading to the 
southern gateway of the ancient 
Temple (§ 40). For a description of 
el-Aksa and the adjoining mosks, see 
§ 43. . 


From el-Aksa we proceed to the 
Mosk of Isa (Jesus) in the S.B. 
corner, through which we enter the 
extensive vaults that sustain this seo- 
tion of the area. A description is 
given above, § 40. <A short distance 
N.W. of this little mosk Dr. Bar- 
clay observed a large section of the 
area paved with tesserz in situ, like 
that seen in the floor of el Alka. Re- 
turning again to the porch of the 
latter,” we proceed westward by the 
mosk of the Mughfribeh to the an- 
cient gate in the western wall N. of 
Abu S‘afid’s house (§ 40). We now 
observe that on the inside it is faced 
somewhat in the Roman style, and 
patched up in Turco-Saracenic fashion, 
so that the present opening is only 
about 18 ft. wide. Over it is a modern 
portal called “the Gate of the Pro- 
phet;” also “the Gate of the Mu- 
gharibeh.” A range of cloisters ex- 
tends from hence to Bab es-Silsileh, 
by which we entered the Haram. 


JERUSALEM. 


§ 46. Ancient GaTES OF JERUSALEM. 


In regard to the gates of the an- 
cient city there exists so much un- 
certainty, that it is almost in vain to 
attempt to ascertain their position. 
Nehemiah enumerates some 10 or 
12, but we cannot tell how many of 
these belong to the exterior walls, 
how many to the interior, and how 
many to the Temple. The chief pas- 
sages relating to the gates and walls are 
found in Neh. ii. 18-15; iii. 1-20; and 
xii. 81-40; “and these are occasion- 
ally illustrated by other incidental 
notices. It is obvious, in the account 
of the rebuilding of the walls by Ne- 
hemiah, that the description begins at 
the Sheep Gate, and proceeds first 
northw: along the brow of the 
Kidron, and then to the 1. round the 
city till it again terminates at the 
same gate. This gives the probable 
order in which the gates mentioned 
stood.” They are as follows :— Shee 
Gate, Fish Gate, Old Gate, Valley 
Gate, Dung Gate, Fountain Gate, 
Water,Gate, Horse Gate, Gate Miph- 
kad; also in ch. xii. we find the 
Prison Gate, and the Gate of Ephraim. 
In 2 Kings xiv. 13, the Corner Gate 
is mentioned; and in Jer. xxxvii. 13, 
the Gate of Benjamin; while Jo- 
sephus aks of the Gate Gennath, 
and the Gate of the Essenes. Whether 
these were all distinct gates is doubt- 
ful; most probably some of them were 
different names for one gate. 

Some incidental notices, however, 
enable us to fix with considerable cer- 
tainty the sites of a few of these 
gates. The Fountain Gate was doubt- 
less near Siloam, in the lower part of 
the poon; and a to be 
that y which king Vedekiah at- 
tempted to escape, as we read that he 
“fled by the wey of the gate between 


two walls, w is by the king’s gar- 
dens” (Jer. lit. 7); and these gardens 
were situated, as has been seen, where 
the Tyropm@on falls into the Kidron 
(§ 31). The tribes of Benjamin and 
Ephraim lay N. of the city, and the 
N. gate would naturally take the 
name of these tribes; it probably oc- 
cupied the site of the present Da- 


. Supply of Water. 


185 


mascus Gate. The Valley Gate was 
opposite the Dragon-fountain of Gi- 
hon (Neh. ii. 13), and must have 
stood at the N.W. corner of Zion, near 
the bend of the valley of Hinnom. 
It may have been identical with the 
Gate th and the Water Gate of 
Josephus (§ 37). Next in order fol- 
lows the g Gate (Neh. ii. 13). 
Josephus mentions a place called 
Bethso, which appears to correspond 
to the Hebrew ONI¥ N93, “ Dung- 
place,” and lay 8. of Hippicus, along 
the western brow of Zion: here may 
have been the Dung Gate. The Gate 
of the Essenes was on the southern 
brow of Zion. The Sheep Gate tra- 
dition identifies with the modern 
Gate of St. Stephen; but this is im- 
possible, for the wall enclosing the 
part of the city N. of the Temple was 
not built till nearly 500 P heat after 
the time of Nehemiah. The Horse 
Gate lay between the Temple and the 


P | royal palace (2 Kings xi. 16). 


§ 47. SUPPLY oF WaTER. 


* Jerusalem lies in a lime- 
stone region, throughout which foun- 
tains and wells are comparatively 
rare. In the city itself little if any 
living water is known; and in its im- 
mediate vicinity are only the 3 small 
fountains in the lower ef the 
valley of Jehoshaphat. Yet, with all 
these disadvantages of position, the 
Holy City woul appear always to 
have had a full supply of water for its 
inhabitants. In the numerous sieges 
to which it has been exposed from 
the earliest ages to the present time, 
we nowhere read of any want of 
water within the city; while the be- 
siegers have often suffered severely, 
and have been compelled to bring 
water from a great distance. During 
the siege by Titus, when the Jews, 

with famine, had recourse to 
the most horrible ients, and 
thousands daily died of hunger, there 
is not a hint that thirst was added to 
their other sufferings. Yet, wher 


> — 


136 


Antiochus Pius had previously be- 
sieged the city, his operations were 
at first delayed for want of water; 
and Josephus regards if as the result 
of a Divine interposition that the 
Romans under Titus were not in like 
manner straitened.”” The same was 
the case during the siege of the city 
by the crusaders. Every source of 
information in fact to which we turn 
tends to confirm the truth of Strabo’s 
words, evrds uty Evddpoy exros 8 way- 
TeAws Sufnpdy; “ within well watered, 
without entirely dry.” It will thus be 
a matter of some little interest to every 
visitor in the Holy City to examine 
the remains of ancient cisterns and 
aqueducts; and to see with his own 
eyes how a city so densely popu- 
lated, so much frequented, and so sin- 
gularly situated, was abundantly sup- 
plied with water; and there are few, 
we think, will refuse to follow when 

we direct our footsteps to— 

Siloah’s brook that flowed 

Fast by the oracle of God. 
Cisterns.— Jerusalem is at present 
chiefly supplied with water from its 
cisterns. Every house of any size has 
one or more of them, into which the 
winter rains are conducted by little 
pipes and ducts from the roofs and 
courtyards. Dr. Robinson mentions 
one house, now occupied by the 
Prussian consul, where there are 4, 
the largest measuring 30 ft. square by 
20 ft. deep; and this is no uncommon 
instance. These private cisterns are 
generally vaulted chambers with only 
a small opening at the top, surrounded 
with stonework, and furnished with a 
curb and wheel. With proper care 
the water in them remains pure and 
sweet during the whole summer. 
Many of them are ancient, and we 
have every reason to believe that this 
mode of obtaining a supply of water 
was adopted from the earliest ages. 
One of these cisterns attached to the 
convent of the Copts, E. of the Holy 
Sepulchre, is worth a visit. It is a 
dark cave, but a small gratuity given 
to one of the servants will secure a 
supply of lights. It is of great extent, 
and excavated wholly in the solid 
ack; we descend by a long flight 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT:. 


of steps, also cut in the rock, with 
& massive balustrade. One must re- 
main some considerable time after 
descending, ere his eyes become so 
accustomed to the dim light shed by 
the candles as to be able to see the 
form and vast extent of the vault. 
It is now called the Cistern of Helena. 
There is another large cistern in the 
Church of the Flagellation ; another 
adjoining the wall KE. of the Damascus 
Gate; another in the Latin convent; 
others among the olive-groves N. of 
the city—Jin fact, in every quarter 
within the circuit of the ancient 
walls cisterns abound. 

Besides the covered cisterns in the 
houses and courts, there are many 
large open reservoirs in and around 
the city. I have already described 
the position of the Upper Pool of 
Gihon (§ 30), which is now called by 
the native Arabs Birket el-Mamilla, 
most probably from a ch. which for- 
merly stood near it dedicated to St. 
Mamilla, in which were preserved the 
bodies of many martyrs slain by the 
Saracens. Both this reservoir and 
the other farther down the valley 
(§ 30) are manifestly of great anti- 
quity. The prophet Isaiah was com- 
manded of God to go forth and meet 
Ahaz “at the end of the conduit of 
the Upper Pool, in the highway of the 
Fuller’s Field ;” and on another oc- 
casion, at the same spot, Rabshakeh- 
stood when he delivered the haughty. . 
message of his royal master the king. 
of Assyria to the ministers of Heze- 
kiah (Is. vii. 3, and xxxvi. 2). We 
also read of Hezekiah that he “stop- 
ped the upper outflow of the waters 
of Gihon, and brought it down to the 
west side of the city of David (Zion).” 
(2 Chron. xxxii. 30.) Connecting these 
notices, and remembering that no- 
where else around Jerusalem is there 
an upper pool whose waters could be 
brought down to the W. of Zion, we 
may safely conclude that the “upper 

ool,” or “upper outflow,” is the Bir- 

et el-Mamilla. 


The Lower Pool, now called Birket 
es-Sultan, “the Sultan’s cistern,” has 
already been described ($30). Isaiah 


JERUSALEM. 


uses the following words in speaking 
of Jerusalem: “Ye gathered together 
the waters of the lower pool” (xxii. 
9); and the relative situations of Bir- 
ket el-Mamilla and Birket es-Sultan 
favour the conclusion that the latter 
is the Lower Pool. 

The great fosse or reservoir, called 
by the monks “ the Pool of Bethesda,”’ 
has been described above, § 40. 


The Pool of Bathsheba is a very 
small tank within the Yafa gate, op- 
posite the castle. It gets its name 
from the tradition that king David 
lived in the great tower of Hippicus, 
and had thus an opportunity of seeing 
the too fair wife of the unfortunate 
Uriah bathing in this pool (2 Sam. 
xi. 2). It has long had to dispute its 
claim with Birket es-Sultan in the 
valley outside; and Maundrell is not 
far wrong when he remarks that the 
one has probably the same right to 
the name as the other. 


The Pool of Hezekiah lies in the 
centre of a group of buildings on the 
W. side of Christian Street, and just 
behind Hauser’s Hotel. Natives call 
it Birket el-Hummdm, “the Pool of 
the Bath.” It is about 240 ft. long 
by 144 wide. The depth is not great. 
The bottom is the natural rock, 
levelled and covered with cement; 
and on the W. side a section of the 
rock has been cut away. It is sup- 
plied with water by a in 
from Birket el-Mamilla. From ex- 
eavations made some years ago for 
the foundation of a new wall in the 


adjoining Coptic convent, it was aster 
ed that the reservoir originally 


extended 60 ft. farther N., and the 
stones of its boundary wall were ex- 
amined by Dr. Robinson, and found 
to be of high antiquity. “We are 
told of king Hezekiah that he ‘made 
a pool and a conduit, and brought 
water into the city ;’ and also that ‘he 
stopped the upper watercourse of 
Gihon, and brought it straight down 
to the W. side of the city of David.’ 
(2 Kings xx. 20; and 2 Chron, xxxii. 
30.) From these words we can only 
infer that Hezekiah constructed a 


Fountains. 


137 


pool within the city on its westerr 
part. To such a pool the present re- 
servoir entirely corresponds; and it is 
also fed in a similar manner.” 


FOUNTAINS. 


The Fountain of Gihon.—We read 
in 2 Chron. xxxii. 30, that Hezekiah 
“stopped the upper outflow of the 
waters of Gihon, and brought it down 
to the west side of the city of David ;”’ 
and also, that ““he took counsel with 
his princes and his mighty men to 
stop the waters of the fountains which 
were without the city. So there was 
gathered much people together, who 
stopped all the fountains, and the 
brook that ran through the midst of 
the land, saying, Why should the king 
of Assyria come, and find much water?” 
(Id. xxxii. 3, 4.) In the book of 
Ecclesiasticus, xlviii. 19, it is also 
stated that “he brought in water into 
the midst of the city; he dug with 
iron into the rock.” These several 
passages apparently refer to the same 
work, and the same fountain or group 
of fountains; and the natural conclu- 
sion from them is that there was a 
fountain called Gihon somewhere on 
the W. of the city, whose water 
originally flowed down the valley of 
Hinnom. Nehemiah speaks of the 
‘“‘Dragon-well”’ in the same direction, 
and this may probably have been 
another name for Gihon, or for one of 
the group of fountains. Hezekiah 
seems to have covered over the foun- 
tain by constructing subterranean 
chambers similar to those at the pools 
of Solomon; and then to have con- 
ducted the water by subterranean 
channels into the city. The whole 
work was one of great magnitude and 
labour, as the aqueducts and reser- 
voirs were mostly excavated in the 
rock, The Pool of Hezekiah was 
one of these reservoirs, and perhaps 
the large cisterns under ;the Haram 
were also supplied from this place. 
Josephus mentions a gate near the 
tower of Hippicus through which 


188 


water was brought into the city; and 
also an aqueduct connected with the 
royal on Zion: there ia reason 
to-believe that he refers to the works 
of Hezekiah. 

It is a remarkable confirmation of 
this view that, when the architect 
was sinking the foundations for the 
English church, which stands on the 
northern brow of Zion, and thus 
occupies part of the site of the royal 

, he discovered, more than 20 
t. beneath the surface, a vaulted 
chamber of fine masonry in perfect 
repair, resting on the rock. ithin 
it were stepe leading down to a solid 
mass of stone-work, covering an im- 
mense conduit partly hewn out of the 
solid rock, and partly built with even 
eourses of masonry, and lined with 
cement an inch thick. Its direction 
was E. and W., and the architect 
traced it eastward for more than 200 
ft. Apertures opened into it at 
inte from above; and the bottom 
was so nearly level that water would 
always lie in it to such a depth as to 
enable people to draw with a bucket 
and line. y not this be the con- 
duit of Hezekiah by which he brought 
the waters of the fountain of Gihon 
to the W. side of the city of David? 
The ition of the fountain must 
have m somewhere in the head of 
the valley of Hinnom above the upper 
pool. By cutting a trench across the 
valley near the 1 the aqueduct 
would doubtless still discovered, 
and could then be followed up to the 
fountain-head. This would be an 
archseological discovery of singular 
importance. 


The Fountain beneath the Haram is 
unquestionably one of the most re- 
markable in Jerusalem. <A kind of 
romantic interest has been thrown 
around it by the strange stories and 
traditions we find in both ancient and 
modern authors. The traveller and 
antiquarian will naturally wish to 
have a brief summary of all that is 
known about it. 

In the book of Ecclesiasticus, |. 3, 
Simon the High-priest is said to have 
fortified the Temple, and to have 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


covered the great cistern, “ whose 
compass was as the sea,” with plates 
of brass. <A short time afterwards 
Aristeas, an officer of Ptolemy Phila- 
delphus, was sent to Jerusalem to 
seéure for the Alexandrian Library a 
copy of the Jewish Law. In a letter 
to his brother he gives a full account 
of the Holy City, and among other 
things mentions the waters of the 
Temple. He says a fountain 
sends forth a never-failing stream 
within the area, and that subterranean 
reservoirs of admirable workmanship 
extend to a distance of 5 stadia 
round the Temple ; that they have in- 
numerable ducts and pipes for the 
regulation and distribution of the 
waters; and that there are many 
secret openings to them, known only 
to the servants of the Holy House, 
throngh which the abundant waters 
rashing with violence wash away all 
the blood of the numerous victims sacri- 
ficed. (Arist. de LXX. Interpretibus. 
The genuineness of this letter has 
been questioned. It is admitted, how- 
ever, on all hands, that it must have 
been written before the Christian 
era.) In the Mishna, too, are found 
numerous traditional notices of the 
waters of the Temple, from which we 
gather that they were unfailing and 
abundant. With these agree the 
words of Tacitus: “Fons perennis 
agus, cavati sub terra montes.”” The 
author of the Jerusalem Itinerary, 
writing in the 4th centy., speaks of 
immense reservoirs and subterranean 
cisterns, excavated with great labour 
beneath the Temple area. To these 
facts of history may be added the 
traditions of Jews, Christians, and 
Muslems—all of which affirm the 
existence of inexhaustible supplies of 
water beneath the Haram. d the 
recent researches of Dr. Barclay have 
gone far to confirm statements and 
traditions which one might have been 
excused for considering in a great 
measure fabulous. His account of 
the vast cistern between the Kubbet 
es-Sukhrah, and el-Aksa, which he 
describes as a “ beautiful subterranean 
lake,’ has already been given, § 45. 
Dr. Barclay also found a large well 


JERUSALEM. 


in the angle formed by the mosks of 
he adda “Judging from. the large 
) ‘s i m the 

number of wells with which my othe 
is dotted, a very large portion uy) 

Haram ground must cavernous. 
Even in the N.W. corner, where the 
natural limestone rock constitutes the 
surface, there are several extensive 


From whence however are all these 
tanks, wells, and cisterns supplied? 
This is still a mystery. Ican scarcely 
believe that there is a living fountain 
within the area. The water most pro- 
bably comes by a subterranean aque- 
duct from some concealed fountain 
without the walls, something like that 
at the Pools of Solomon (Rte. 7). 


The Fountain of the Bath, called 
Hummém esh-Shef'a, “the Bath of 
Healing,” is thought to be connected 
with the waters beneath the Haram. 
It ison the W. side of the Haram, near 
Bab el-Katanin, and was partly ex- 
prored by Mr. Wolcott, an American. 

he entrance to the fountain is by a 
narrow opening in the roof of a house 
behind the bath. Through this the 
adventurous explorer was let down by 
a rope. The shaft soon expanded to 
about 12 ft. square, and the depth to 
the surface of the water was nearly 
80 ft.; the water being 44 ft. more. 
Having reached the bottom, Mr. Wol- 
cott found on one side, above the 
surface of the water, an excavated 
chamber 15 ft. long, 10 broad, and 4 
high; and on the other the passage 
through which the water flows into 
the well, at first about 10 ft. high, 
with 44 ft. of water; but soon ex- 
panding into a vault 20 ft. square. 
Beyond this the was from 2 
to 3 ft. wide, and covered with stones 
at the height of 5 ft. The channel 
was crooked and irregular, and the 
stones covering it of various kinds— 
some square hewn slabs, others frag- 
ments of marble and granite columns. 
After extending 80 ft. it terminates at 
a well from which the water rises. It 
has been supposed, from the repre- 
sentations of the attendants on the 
bath, who visit it when the water is 


Fountains. . 


189 


low, that there is another passage at 
a lower level, extending under the 
Haram. The distance from the 
opening above ground to the Haram 
wall is 124 ft.; so that, supposing the 
subterranean channel to run due E. 
(which it does not, the direction being 
about 8.E.), it still stops 44 ft. short 
of the area. Future explorations 
under more favourable circumstances 
may perhaps solve the mystery of the 
source of these waters. 


Fountain of the Virgin.—On the W. 
side of the deep valley of Jehoshaphat, 
about 300 yds. S. of the Haram, is the 
pic ue Fountain of the Virgin, 
now ed by the Arabs "Ain wm 
ed-Deraj, “ the Fountain of the Mother 
of Stairs.” The water springs up at 
the bottom of an artificial cave, some 
25 ft. deep, excavated in the rock of 
Ophel. nding by a flight of 16 
steps, we reach a chamber 18 ft. long 
by 10 wide and 10 high—its sides 
built of old stones, and its roof formed 
of a pointed arch. Then going down 
14 steps more into a roughly hewn 
grotto, we reach the water, which 
issues from under the lowest step, 
flows across the pebbly bottom, and 


disa: with a gentle murmuring 
sound through a low e at the 
interior extremity, leading under the 


hill to Siloam. Here, a recent tradi- 
tion informs us, the Virgin came before 
her purification to wash her infant's 
clothes. Mejr ed-Din gives a different 
tradition. He states that the water 
of this fountain was a grand test for 
women accused of adultery : the inno- 
cent drank harmlessly; but the guilty 
no sooner tasted than they died! 
When the Virgin Mary was 

she submitted to the ordeal, and thus 
established her innocence. Hence a 
name it was long known by—‘“ the 
Fountain of accused women.” The 
taste of the water is peculiar, but is 
different at different seasons ; towards 
the end of the summer, when low, it 
becomes brackish and di ble. 
One of the most remarkable circum- 
stances, however, roger of the 
ountain is the étrr r ty) 
water, long known by the JP tants 


140 


and witnessed by Dr. Robinson. His 
account of it is highly interesting : 
‘“‘As we were preparing to measure 
the basin of the fountain, and explore 
the passage leading from it, my com- 
panion was standing on the lower step 
near the water, with one foot on the 
step, and another on a loose stone 
lying in the basin. All st once he 
perceived the water coming into his 
shoe; and supposing the stone had 
rolled, he withdrew his foot to the 
step; which however was also now 
covered with water. This instantly 
excited our curiosity; and we per- 
ceived the water rapidly bubbling up 
from under the lower step. In less 
than five minutes it had risen in the 
basin nearly or quite a foot; and we 
could hear it gurgling off through the 
interior passage. In ten minutes more 
it had ceased to flow; and the water 
in the basin was again reduced to its 
former level. Meanwhile a woman of 
Kefr Silwin came to wash at the 
fountain. She was accustomed to 
frequent the place every day; and 
from her we learned that the flowing 
of the water occurs at irregular 
intervals; sometimes two or three 
times a day, and sometimes in summer 
once in two or three days. She said 
she had seen the fountain dry, and 
men and flocks dependent upon it 
gathered around, and suffering from 
thirst; when all at once the water 
would begin to boil up from under the 
steps, and from the bottom in the 
interior part, and flow off in a copious 
stream.” 

The common legend to account for 
this singular phenomenor is, that a 
dragon lies within the fountain ; when 
awake he stops the water; but when 
he sleeps it flows. It is the universal 
belief that the water comes down from 
beneath the Haram; and this may 
probably be the case, though it can 
only be proved by extensive excava- 
tion. There are several of these re- 
mitting fountains in Syria. The great 
fountain of ’Anjar, beside the ancient 
Chalcis, in the plain of Buka’a, is one ; 
and there is another near Tripoli; and 
a third in the plain of Damascus. 

Dr. Robinson suggests that this may 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


- Siloah.”’ 


Sect. IT. 


be the Bethesda of the New Testa- 
ment, where our Lord cured the im- 

potent man. (John v. 2-7.) The pool 
of Bethesda is described as being by 
the Sheep-Gate, which must have been 

near the Temple, as it was repaired 

by the priests in Nehemiah’s time. 
(Neh. ii. 1, 32.) It may be well doubt- 

ed whether this fountain or the Pool 

of Siloam farther down is the true 

Bethesda. There are stronger rea- 

sons, however, for supposing that the 

Fountain of the Virgin is identical 

with the King’s Pool mentioned by 

Nehemiah as the place where, in his 

night survey of the desolated city, 

there was no way for the animal he 

rode to pass; and where, having dis- 

mounted, he went up by the brook 

and viewed the wall (1. 14, 15); 

and it is unquestionably the pool 

called by Josephus Solomon's Reser- 

voir, which he describes as situated 

on the E. side of Ophel, between the 

Fountain of Siloam and the southern 

side of the Temple. 


Siloam.—In going from the Fountain 
of the Virgin to the “ Pool: of Siloam” 
we walk down the Kidron for some 
300 yds., and then reach a verdant 
spot, sprinkled with trees and care- 
fully cultivated. This is the site of 
the “King’s Gardens,” mentioned by 
Nehemiah as beside the “Pool of 
(iii. 15.) The Tyropeon 
now opens on our right; and across. 
its mouth is an ancient causeway, 
or embankment, forming a large basin 
above it, now cultivated. This was 
at one time a reservoir. On the 
end of the causeway stands a vene- 
rable mulberry-tree, supported by a 
pillar of loose stones; said to mark 
the spot where Manasseh caused the / 
prophet Isaiah to be sawn asunder, , 
and still called Isaiah's Tree. 

Turning up to the rt., we pass the 
projecting cliff of Ophel, and soon 
stand beside Siloah’s Pool. It is a 
rectangular reservoir, 53 ft. long, 18 
wide, and 19 deep; in part broken 
away at the western end. The 
masonry is modern; but along the 
side are 6 shafts oflimestone columhs, 
of more ancient date, projecting 


JERUSALEM, 


slightly from the wall, and probably 
originally intended to sustain a roof. 
At the upper end of the pool is an 
arched entrance toa ruinous staircase, 
by which we descend tothe mouth of 
the conduit that comes from the Foun- 
tain of the Virgin. Dr. Robinson, 
having heard it currently reported in 
Jerusalem, that Siloam was united by 
® subterranean eto the Fountain 
of the Virgin, determined to explore 
it. Entering at the staircase above 
mentioned, he found the passage cut 
through the rock, 2 ft. wide, and 
gradually decreasing from 15 to 3 ft. 
in height. At the end of 800 ft. it 
became so low that he could advance 
no farther without “crawling on all 
fours.” Here he turned back; but 
coming better prepared for an aquatic 
excursion on another day, he entered 
from the Fountain of the Virgin. 
Here the difficulties proved _ still 
ter. ‘Most of the way we could 
indeed advance upon hands and knees ; 
yet in several places we could only get 
forward by lying at full length and 
dragging ourselves along upon our 
elbows.” This shows the nature of the 
passage, and the immense labour the 
excavation must have cost. He suc- 
ceeded at length in working his way 
through. The channel winds and zig- 
zags, in the very heart of the rock, so 
much that, while the direct distance 
is only 1100 ft., the passage measured 
1750. The discovery of this remark- 
able conduit explains at once why 
Siloam has been also regarded as a 
remitting fountain. Jerome appears to 
be the first who noticed this peculiar- 
ity; he is at least the first who re- 
cords it. He saya, “Siloam is a foun- 
tain whose waters do not flow regu- 
larly, but on certain days and hours ; 
and issue with a great noise from 
caverns in the rock.’ 
No fountain about Jerusalem has 
obtained such a wide celebrity as 
Siloah, and yet it is only 3 times men- 
tioned in Scripture. Isaiah speaks 
of “the waters of Siloah that flow 
softly’ ( viii. 6); Nehemiah says 
Shallum built “the wall of the pool 
of Siloah by the king’s garden” 
(i. 15) — perhaps referring to the 


Fountains. 


‘141 


embankment of the large reservoir 
above referred to; and our Saviour 
commanded the blind man, “ Go, wash 
in the pool of Siloam. ... He went 
his way, therefore, and washed, and 
came seeing.” (John ix.7.) These 
notices, however interesting, would 
leave us in doubt as to the position 
and identity of the fountain; but 
Josephus is explicit on this point, 
when he says that the Tyropceon ex- 
tended down to Siloam. Isaiah pro- 
bably refers to Siloah under the name 
of the Old Pool when he says, “ Ye 
made also a ditch between the two 
walls for the water of the old pool.” 
This ditch may be the large reser- 
voir at the mouth of the Tyropcon, 
constructed to retain the surplus 
waters of Siloah. (Isaiah xxii. 11. 
Comp. Jer. xxxix. 4, and lii.7; and 
Neh. iii. 15.) 


En- now called by the Arabs 
Bir Eyub, “the Well of Job,” and by 
Franks “the Well of Nehemiah,” is 
situated in the bottom of the Kidron, 
a little below its junction with the 
valley of Hinnom. It has received 
its Frank title from the tradition that 
in it was hid the sacred fire of the 
Temple during the Babylonish cap- 
tivity, and which was recovered by 
Nehemiah on his return to Jerusalem. 
(2 Mac. i. 19-22.) It is 125 ft. deep, 
walled up with large hewn stones ter- 
minating in an arch above, apparently 
of high antiquity. There is now a 
small rude building over it, furnished 
with troughs into which the water is 
poured when drawn. En-Rogel is 
first mentioned by Joshua as markin 
the boundary between Judah an 
Benjamin (xv. 7, 8, and xviii. 16). It 
was by this well that Jonathan and 
Ahimaaz, David’s servants, waited for 
instructions from Hushai during Ab- 
salom’s rebellion (2 Sam. xvii. 17) ; 
and here Adonijah, David's son, as- 
sembled his friends when he aspired 
to be king in his father's stead. 
(1 Kings i. 9.) 

After abundant rains the water of 
this well overflows, forming, with the 
surface water of the neighbouring 
hills, a little stream in the Kidron. 


142 


It is said by Mejr ed-Din that near 
the bottom is a horizontal cutting 
leading to the true source of the 
water. 


Aqueduct from the Fools 0 Solomon. 
—This aqueduct is not referred to in | h 


the Bible or in the writings of Jose- 
phus; but it is often mentioned in 
the Talmud as conveying water from 
Etam to the Temple. hus in- 
forms us -_ Fotnding ths offended 
ews expen 

treasures upon aqueducts, by which 
he brought water to the city from a 
distance of 400 furlongs; and Mr. 
Williams has that the 
aqueduct alluded to is that from 
Etam. This however is mere conjec- 
ture, and the length given by Jose- 
phus is about equal to 8 times the 

istance of Solomon’s Pools. The 
fountain at Etam, and the course of 
the aqueduct, have been already de- 
scribed in Rte. 7. The aqueduct 
follows the windings of the hill-sides 
by Bethlehem to the valley of Hinnom, 
which it crosses upon 9 low arches, 
above Birket es-Sultan. Here is an 
Arabic inscription informing us that 
the aqueduct was built by the Sultan 
el-Melek en-Nasr Mohammed of t 
(circa s.D. 1800): of course he only. 
repaired it. From hence it sweeps 
round the southern brow of Zion, and 
enters the city on the side of the hill 
above the Tyropoon, where it can be 
traced for a short distance, partly 
hewn in the rock, and partly enpported 
on masonry against the side of the cliff. 
Mr. Wolcott entered it with a light 
at the point where it passes under the 
houses, and followed it for about 150 
ft. It is carried along the low ridge 
which crosses the northern part of the 
Tyropewon in the line of David's 
street, and enters the Haram at the 
“Gate of the Chain.” Just outside 
this gate is a large subterranean reser- 
voir, 84 ft. long, 42 broad, and 24 deep, 
which was doubtless supplied by the 
aqueduct. Dr. Barclay states that 
the aqueduct terminated in the great 
reservoir in front of el-Aksa. (§ 45.) 

When I was in Jerusalem in 1854 
agents of the government were em- 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


ployed in repairing both Solomon's 
cools and the aqueduct leading from 
them to the Holy City; but when I 


present year I 


returned during the 

found the works neglected, and the 
water flowing only as far as Bethle- 
em. 


§ 48. ANCIENT ToMBs. 


Every hill and valley around the 
Holy City is thickly studded with these 
memorials of man’s mortality. The 
summits of Zion and Bezetha; the 
slopes of Olivet and Moriah ; the 
plateau on the N.W. ; and the deep val- 
of Hinnom and Jehoshaphat, are 
cemeteries. The tombs of Jerusa- 
lem are far more numerous than her 
houses. Many of them are evidently 
very ancient ; and a few are interesting 
from their historic and sacred associa- 
tions. I shall now describe the most 
remarkable. 


Tomb of David—There is no his- 
toric fact in the word of God more 
plainly stated than this, that king 
David, and most of his successors on 
the throne of Israel, were buried in 
Zion. The fact has been disputed of 
course—what fact has not? And M. 
de Saulcy believes he has “ demon- 
strated” that not only was David 
buried 4m. distant from Zion; but 
that the lid of his sarcophagus, rifled 
by his (M. de Saulcy’s) own hands, 
is now actually in the Louvre! Most 
people, however, will prefer the testi- 
mony of Scripture to the theory of the 
Frenchman. The royal sepulchres 
were well known after the return of 
the Jews from Babylon, and Nehemiah 
incidentally describes their position. 
After mentioning the section of the 
city wall built by Shallum, extending 
from the pool of Siloah to the “stairs 
that go down from the city of David,” 
he adds,—* After him repaired Ne- 
hemiah, the son of Azbuk, unto the 

lace over against the sepulchres of 

vid, and to the pool that was made, 
and unto the house of the mighty.” 


Soot. | 


| 


JERUSALEM, 


(Neh. iii. 15, 16.) The pool here 
referred to is unquestionably the 
lower pool, Birket es-Sulian, in the 
valley of Hinnom ; and the whole de- 
scription shows that the royal tombs 
were on or near the southern brow of 
Zion. Josephus says that Solomon 
buried David with great pomp, and 
laced immense treasures along with 
is body inthe tomb. These remained 
undisturbed till the time of Hyrcanus 
son of Simon Maccabeeus, who, being 
besieged by Antiochus Pius, and wish- 
ing to give him money to raise the 
siege, “opened one room of David's 
sepulchre and took out 3000 talents.”’ 
The tomb was in opened and 
plundered by Herod the Great, who 
was disappointed at not finding more 
money, and consequently made an at- 
tempt to penetrate as far as the bodies, 
** but two of his were killed by 
the flame that burst out on them,” and 
he was obliged to give up the sacri- 
legious attempt. (Ané. xiil. 8,4; and 
xvi. 7,1.) We havea still later testi- 
mony to the preservation of these 
tombs in the words of the Apostle 
Peter regarding David: “He is both 
dead and buried, and his sepulchre is 
with us unto this day.” (Acts ii. 29.) 
From that time, however, the royal 
tombs are not once mentioned until 
the 12th centy., when Benjamin of 
Tudela visited the Holy City, and 
wrote the following si story. 
insert it here as perhaps having some 
foundation in fact. “On Mount Zion 
are the sepulchres of the house of 
David, and those of the kings who 
reigned after him. In consequence of 
the following circumstance this place 
is hardly to be recognised. 15 years 
ago one of the walls of the church on 
Zion (the Canaculum) fell down, and 
the patriarch commanded the priest to 
repair it. He ordered stones to be 
en from the original wall of Zion 
for that purpose, and 20 workmen 
were hired at stated wages, who broke 
stones taken from the very foundation 
of the wall of Zion. Two labourers 
thus employed found a stone which 
covered the mouth of a cave. This 
they entered in search of treasures, 
proceeded until they reached a 


Ancient Tombs. 


148 


large hall, supported by pillars of 
marble, encrusted with gold and silver, 
and before which stood a table with a 
golden sceptre and crown. This was 
the sepulchre of David; to the left 
they saw that of Solomon in a similar 
state; and so on the sepulchres of the 
other kings buried there. They saw 
chests locked up, and were on the 
int of entering when a blast of wind 
ike a storm issued from the mouth of 
the cave with such force that it threw 
them lifeless on the ground. They 
lay there until evening, when they 
heard a voice commanding them to go 
forth from the place. They immedi- 
ately rushed out and communicated 
the strange tale to the Patriarch, who 
summoned a learned rabbi, and heard 
from him that this was indeed the 
tomb of the great king of Israel. The 
patriarch ordered the tomb to be 
walled up so as to hide it effectually.” 
The narrator closes by the statement, 
“The above-mentioned rabbi told me 
all this.” This extravagant legend 
was most probably founded on some 
narrow basis of truth, garnished by 
the lively imagination of the worth 
Benjamin, or his friend the rabbi. It 
may bear about the same relation to 
truth that the characters and pictures 
of Benjamin Disraeli’s ‘ Tancred’ do 
to the realities of Eastern life. 
The royal sepulchres were doubtless 


I | hewn in the rock, like other tombs of 


great men in that age ; and if so they 
must still exist. If the entrance 
should be accidentally covered over 
with the débris of fallen buildings, 
they might remain hidden and un- 
known for ages; and when all the 
resident Christians were so piously and 
so fully occupied in grafting Christian 
traditions upon every nook and corner 
of the Holy City, it is not strange that 
the tomb of David should be forgotten. 
About the middle of the 15th centy. 
the tombs are referred to by several 
travellers, and one (Tucher of Nurem- 
berg, a.p. 1479) says that the Muslems 
had converted the crypt, or lower 
story of the Coenaculum (see § 53), 
into a mosk, within which were shown 
the tombs of David, Solomon, and the 
other kings. In the following centy. 


144 


Fiirer, a German traveller, professes to 
have visited the tombs, and gives a 
brief description. “On the left of the 
Coenaculum, under the choir, is a large 
vaulted cave ; from it we come by a 
narrow e, shut in by wooden 
rails, to an arch on the left, in which 
is a very long and lofty monument, 
cut entirely out of the rock, with carv- 
ing admirably executed. Under this 
are buried David, Solomon, and the 
other kings of Judah.” This account 
also es of the marvellous, and 
must be received with caution. It is 
a fact, however, that Jews, Christians, 
and Muslems, have now for more than 
4 centuries agreed in regarding the 
Coenaculum as the spot beneath which 
the dust of the kings of Judah lies. 
Numbers of Jews may be often seen 
standing close to the venerable build- 
ing, looking with affectionate sadness 
toward the spot. bee 1839 Sir Mose 
Montefi nd his ‘party were ad- 
mitted to the mosk, which they de- 
scribe a8 8 ious vaulted building. 
They were led to a trellised doorway 
through which they saw the tomb. 
The guardians of the mosk say the real 
tomb is underneath. It is impossible 
to determine from these confused and 
exaggerated reports whether the tomb 
of David is here or not. It is to be 
hoped, however, that ere long the 
mosk and cave may be thrown open, 
like the Haram, to travellers and an- 
tiquarians. Then perhaps some an- 
cient and interesting monuments may 
be brought to light. Of one thing we 
may be assured, that the sepulchre of 
David cannot have been distant 
from the building now said to stand 
over it, 


Tombs in the Valley of Hinnom.— 
Leaving the tomb of David, and de- 
scending through ploughed fields on 
the southern eclivity of Zion, we 
reach the Valley of Hinnom. (See § 
30.) The whole cliffs on its southern 
side are honeycombed with tombs— 
most of them very old; small gloomy 
caves, with narrow doorways. <A few 
have imperfect Hebrew inscriptions, 
not older than the 8th or 9th century. 
There are also some with Greek in- 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. ¥. 


scriptions, now mostly obliterated. 
One has a +, and the words THC 
ATIAC CI@N; another exhibits some 
traces of painting on the walls and ceil- 
ing, consisting chiefly of glories round 
the heads of Greek saints. This is the 
tomb usually shown by the monks as 
the place where the Apostles hid 
themselves after the capture of the 
Saviour. The tombs in these cliffs are 
almost all plain chambers hewn in the 
limestone rock, without any architec- 
tural ornament, save here and there a 
moulding round the door. As works 
of art they have no interest ; but we 
may perhaps conclude from the words 
of Jeremiah that this was one of the 
ancient Jewish cemeteries. (vii. 32, 
and xix, 2-12.) 

About half way up the side of the 
hill, directly opposite the Pool of 
Siloam, is the reputed site of Aceldama, 


“the Field of Blood,” bought with 


the “30 pieces of silver,” the price of 
our Lord’s betrayal. (Matt. xxvii. 7, 
8; Acts i.19.) It is a long vaulted 
building of massive masonry, in front 
of a precipice of rock, in which is ap- 

arently a natural cave. The interior 
is excavated to the depth of some 20 
ft., thus forming an immense charnel- 
house. At each end is an opening, 
through which we have a dim view of 
the interior; the bottom is empty and 
dry, with a few half-decayed bones 
scattered over it. The tradition iden- 
tifying it is as old as the time of 
Jerome ; and is referred to by almost 
every pilgrim and traveller from that 
age to the present day. The charnel- 
house is first mentioned by Maunde- 
ville. The bodies of the dead were 
thrown loosely into it, and the soil 
was believed to possess the remark- 
able power of consuming them in the 
short space of 24 hrs. On this account, 
it is said, many shiploads of it were 
carried away in the year 1218 to the 
celebrated Campo Santo at Pisa. 
(Pococke’s Description of the East, p. 
25.) The place does not appear to 
have been used for burial for more 
than a centy., though some travellers 
affirm -they have seen bodies in it 
within the last 50 yrs. 


JERUSALEM. 


Tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat. 
——From the cemetery of Hinnom we 
pass over to that of Jehoshaphat, where 
we find the humble modern Jewish 
tombs scattered thickly around the 
proud monuments of their ancestors. 
In the little village of Kefr Silwan 
are some rock sepulchres worth a 
visit, The people may be rude and 
troublesome at first ; but if the travel- 
ler treats them with cool respectful 
indifference they will soon leave him 
to his researches. The scene pre- 
sented to the view of the traveller 
when he climbs up to this strange 
‘village’ is one of the most remarkable 
and picturesque around the city. Op- 
posite to him the summit of Moriah is 
crowned by the massive walls of the 
Haram, from which Ophel descends 
in broken masses of rock and terraces 
of olives ; while at his feet is the deep, 
barren bed of the Kidron, expanding 
@ little farther down, at its junction 
with the Tyropcon, into verdant gar- 
dens — then receiving the gloomy 
Tophet, whose precipitous southern 
bank, dotted with dark caves, projects 
eastward, contracting the pleasant val- 
ley into a narrow rugged rayine. And 
the village itself is remarkable, cling- 
ing to the rocky bank of the Kidron 
—its inhabitants a kind of semi-trog- 
lodytes... Tombs are here excavated 
in the cliffs, one above another, many 
of them now occupied as dwellings ; 
while to the front of others rude huts 
are stuck on, “The cries of infancy 
are heard to issue from the gloomy 
recesses Of ancient sepulchres; and 
where the bodies of the nobles of 
Judah were consigned to their last 
home, with all the pomp of funeral 
ceremony, flocks of sheep and goats 
are now driven for nightly shelter.” 
The tombs are in general better finish- 
ed than those of Hinnom ; and a few 
of them belong to another style, per- 
haps to another race. One, minutely 
described by M. de Saulcy, and situ- 
ated at the N. end of the village, re- 
sembles in its architecture some of 
the tombs of Egypt, and still more a 
sepulchral monument dug out by 
Botta from the mound of Khorsabad. 
It is a monolith, partially isolated ; 

[Syria and Palestine. ] 


Ancient Tombs. 145 


the sides contract slightly, and are 
surmounted by a deep Egyptian cor- 
nice. De Saulcy’s “conviction” is 
that this is the chapel where Solo- 
mon’s Egyptian wife performed the 
sacred rites of her native country. 
(1 Kings vii. 8-12; 2 Chron. viii. 11.) 

The most remarkable group of se- 
pulchral monuments around the Holy 
City is that in Jehoshaphat, below the 
S.E. angle of the Haram. ‘There are 
4 tombs here in a range, on the 1, 
bank of the valley, which, from their 
situation in the deep narrow glen and 
the style of their architecture, are 
justly calculated to.arrest the attention 
of every traveller; the first we reach 
gn coming up from KefrSilwan is now 
generally called 


Fhe Fomb of Zacharias.— This is a 
cubical monolithic structure, sepa- 
rated from the natural rock, of which 
it farms a part, by a broad excavated 

Each side measures about 
17 ft., and is ornamented with 2 co- 
lumns in the centre, and a quarter 
column adjoining a pilaster at each 
angle, all Ionic. They support a 
broad cornice, over which rises a 
uadrangular, equilateral pyramid. 
e whole monument is apparently 
solid. It is said to have been con- 
structed in honour of Zechariah, who 
was stoned in the court of the temple 
in the reign of Joash (2 Chron. xxiv, 
21), the same of whom our Lord 
speaks as slain “ between the temple 
and the altar.” (Matt. xxiii.35.) Such 
is the modern theory; but the Jeru- 
salem Itinerary, of the 4th centy., says 
it is the tomb of Isaiah; and Benja- 
min of Tudela, in the 12th centy., 
appears to describe it as the sepulchre 
of king Uzziah. There is not a sha- 
dow of evidence that it was ever 
intended for any of these, and the 
style of the architecture can scarcely 
be earlier than our era. The Jews 
hold it in high respect, and prayers 
offered up at it are said to be of un- 
failing efficacy. Itis the great wish 
of every Jew to be buried as close to 
it as possible, 


The Tomb of Absalom resembles the 
H 


146 


preceding in some degtee, and I 
therefore place the two together, 
though the 2 other tombs of the group 
lie between them. The lower part of 
this monument is a monolith, isolated 
like that of Zechariah, but the upper 
part is of masonry. The body of the 
monument is a cube, 22 ft. on each 
side: and the columns and pilasters are 
arranged in precisely the same way as 
the former. Over the columns, how- 
ever, is a Doric frieze, ornamented 
with triglyphs and patere, and over 
this an tian cornice; so far the 
material is the solid rock. The upper 
part consists of 2 layers of large 
stones terminating the cube; then a 
cylinder, composed of 3 more layers, 
ornamented with projecting cable- 
mouldings ; and the whole terminates 
in a singular concave-curved pyramid, 
crowned by a tuft of palm-leaves. The 
total height above the present surface 
of the ground is nearly 54 ft., of which 
87 are masonry. Its lower part is 
now buried to some depth in a mass 
of stones, thrown at it by Jews, who, 
believing it‘to be really the pillar of 
Absalom mentioned in Scripture, have 
been in the habit from time immemo- 
rial of showing their horror at his 
rebellious conduct by casting a stone 
and spitting as they pass by. Most 
of them, however, might save them- 
selves the trouble, if they would only 
reflect on the words of our Lord: 
“He that is without sin among you, 
let him first cast a stone.” 

In the lower part is a small cham- 
ber 8 ft. square, to which we enter by 
a little door on the E. side, above 
the cornice; the ceiling is flat, with 
an ornamental panel, and a Greek 
moulding for a cornice. On the N. 
and W. sides of the chamber are re- 
cesses 2 ft. deep, and there is now a 
small hole broken through the western 
wall. The interior is encumbered with 
rubbish, so that the receptacles for 
the dead, if any exist, are covered. 

The style of the architecture shows 
at once that this cannot be the pillar 
Absalom hed “reared up for himself 
during his lifetime in the king’s dale ” 
(2 Sam. xviii. 18); and, indeed, his 
name is not attached to it by any 


Route 7.—Jerusalem—Jewish Antiquities. 


Sect. [7. 


writer before the 12th centy., when 
Benjamin of Tudela mentions it. The 
author of the Jerusalem Itinerary calls 
it the monument of Hezekiah; and 
Adamnanusg, in the 7th centy., seems 
to speak of it as the tomb of Jehosha- 
phat. The precise date of the monu- 
ment it is difficult to determine. It 
bears a striking resemblance to some 
of those we have seen in Petra; and 
this would seem to favour the suppo- 
sition of Dr. Robinson, that it is 
bably to be referred to the time of the 
Herods, who were of Idumean descent, 
and maintained an intercourse between 
Petra and Jerusalem. The strange 
mingling of the Greek and Egyptian 
styles, observable both here and in 
Petra, would not be inconsistent with 
the age of the Herods. Mr. Fergus- 
son regards the pyramid on Absalom’s 
tomb as a modern improvement, 
chiefly because it is anomalous; but 
there is no evidence of this on the 
monument itself—the work appears to 
be all of the same age. 


Tomb of St. James.—A few paces N. 
of the monument of Zacharias is a 
large excavated chamber in the side 
of the cliff, having in front a porch 
supported by 2 columns and 2 half- 
columns of the Doric order, connected 
by an architrave, over which is a Doric 
frieze, with triglyphs and a cornice ; the 
order is about 10 ft. high. The porch 
is 18 ft. wide by 9 deep; and on its 
N. side are a door and staircase lead- 
ing to the rock overhead. On the 
E. a plain door admits to the princi- 
pal sepulchral chamber, about 17 ft. 
by 14, from which open 3 smaller 
chambers, with recesses for bodies. 
On the §. side of the vestibule is a 
door leading through an excavated 
passage to the monument of Ze- 
chariah. 

In this tomb, says tradition, the 
Apostle James sought refuge during 
the interval which elapsed between 
the crucifixion and resurrection of our 
Lord. The tradition is first found in 
Gregory of Tours, where it is said, 
that, when James saw the Saviour dead 
upon the cross, he vowed he would 
neither eat nor drink until he should 


JERUSALEM, 


see him risen again. On the third day 
our Lord showed himself to the apos- 
tlé, saying, “ Arise and eat, for I have 
now risen from the dead.” The story, 
however, does not appear to have been 
attached to this cave till the time of 
Maundeville, in the 14th centy. 


The Tomb of Jehoshaphat is in the 
N.E. angle of the excavated area 
around the pillar of Absalom. . The 
pediment alone is now visible, owing 
to the accumulation of rubbish. It is 
richly ornamented with foliage, and 
has a strange and striking appearance, 
as if rising up in all its beauty out of 
the heart of the mountain. The in- 
terior is inaccessible, having been 
filled ‘up, it is said, by Jews, in con- 
‘sequence of an incident that occurred 
in 1842. A member of the Chaldean 
church, educated at Rome, visited 
Jerusalem, and attempted to explore 
this tomb. While thus engaged, he 
found a Hebrew MS. roll, containing 
the Pentateuch. The discovery pro- 


Ancient Tombs, 


147 


duced much sensation at the time, 
but the Jews said it was one of those 
which they are in the habit of burying 
in the graves of their rabbis.- This 
tomb cannot, of course, be that of 
King Jehoshaphat, who “was buried 
with his fathers in the city of David 
his father.” (1 Kings xxii. 50.) Indeed, 
so late as the 7th centy., these 2 ex- 
cavated sepulchres are said by Adam- 
nanus to be those of Simeon the Just, 
and Joseph the husband of the Virgin 
Mary; and Arculf, in the year 700, 
was shown “ the tower of Jehoshaphat, 
in which his tomb is seen '’-—evidently 
referring to the so-called pillar of 
Absalom. 


Tombs of the Prophets.— Turning 
away from these singular monuments in 
the bed of the Kidron, and ascending 
the rocky terraced side of Olivet for 
about a quarter of a mile in a S.E. di- 
rection, we reach the tombs of the 
Prophets. They are situated on the 
side of the hill, between the footpath 


TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS. 


143 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquities, 


Sect. II, 


and the main road to Bethany. Their | bed of the Kidron, 4nd then turn to 
position is marked on the map, but, as | the 1. round a rocky promontory of 
the entrance is not easily discovered, | Bezetha. Here we may observe some 


it is as well to take a guide. 
tombs are different in plan and style 
from all others yet known round 
the Holy City, and therefore deserve 
a visit. Through a long descending 
gallery, the first part of which is 
winding, we enter s circular chamber, 
about 24 ft. in diameter and 10 high, 
having a hole in its roof, through 
which an entrance may be also ob- 
tained. From this chamber, 2 parallel 
galleries, 10 ft. high and 5 wide; are 
carried southwards through the rock 
for about 60 ft. ; a third diverges 8.E., 
extending 40 ft. They are connected 
by 2 cross galleries in concentric 
curves, one at their extreme end, the 
other in the middle. The outer one 
is 115 ft. long, and has a range of 30 
nicheg on the level of its floor, ra- 
diating outwards. Two small cham- 
bers with similar niches also open 
into it. 

No inscriptions, sarcophagi, or re- 
mains of any kind, have ever been 
discovered tending to throw a single 
ray of light on the age or history of 
these mysterious mansions of the dead. 
I know not when or why they got 
their present name; but one thing is 
certain—they can have nothing to do 
with the tombs of the prophets, which 
Christ told the Pharisees they “ built.” 
The accompanying plan will show 
the intricate nature of these singular 
excavations better than any descrip- 
tion, 


Tomb of Helena, commonly called 
the Tombe of the Kings.—The position 
of this remarkable excavation has 
already been pointed out. (§ a) In 
going from the city we follow the N 
road through the Damascus gate, or 
the branch leading into it from the 
Yafa gate. As we, however, have 
just been visiting the Tombs of the 
Prophets on Olivet, we may descend 
and cross the Kidron at the Chapel 
of the Virgin, and then, striking up the 
steep path to the N.E. angle of the 
city, follow the Anathoth road to 
where it begins to descend into the 


These | traces of the ancient wall of Agrippa ; 


VESTIBULE. 


Tomb of Helena, commonly called the Tombs 
of the Kings, 


and not far off, beautifully situated in 
& sequestered ravine, is a rock tomb 
in excellent preservation, which some 
would identify with the Fuller's Tomb, 
said by Josephus to be near the spot 
where the wall bent southwards. (B. J. 
v. 4,2.) Continuing westward along 
the southern side of the valley, we 
pass numerous other tombs in the 
cliffs—perhaps the “royal caverns ” 
through which the wall of Bezetha 
ran after passing the monument of 
Helena. One of them is revered by 
the Jews as the grave of Simeon the 
Just. (Joseph., Ant. xii. 2, 1.) 

The tomb of Helena is 4 m. N. of 
the Damascus gate, and about 60 yds, 


aoe ee nite 


JERUSALEM. 


to the rt. of the Nabulus road. On 
reaching the spot we find a broad 
trench hewn in the solid rock, which 
here forms the level surface of the 
ground, The western end slopes gra- 
dually to the bottom, some 18 ft. deep. 
On descending, we observe on the 1. 
a very low arched doorway, ‘opening, 
through a wall of rock 7 ft. thick, into 
an excavated court 92 ft. long by 87 
wide. Its depth is now only about 
18 ft.; but the bottem is evidently 
encumbered with an accumulation of 
rubbish. The walls all round are of 
the native rock hewn smooth. On the 
western side is a vestibule, or porch, 
39 ft. wide, 17 deep, and 15 high, also 
hewn in the rock ; the open front was 
originally 27 ft. wide, but the sides 
are now much broken. It was sup- 
ported by 2 columns in the middle, 
and apparently a semi-column at each 
side, but these are now entirely gone, 
with the exception of a fragment of 
one of the capitals which depends 
from the architrave. Along the front 
extend a deep frieze and cornice; the 
former richly ornamented with clusters 
of grapes, triglyphs, and paters, alter- 
nating over a continuous garland of 
fruit and foliage, which was carried 
down the sides, Unfortunately, this 
beautiful facade is almost wholly ob- 
literated, partly by the tooth of time, 
but chiefly by the hand of man. It 
has suffered much even within the 
last few years. 

At the southern side of the vesti- 
bule is the entrance to the tomb. The 
door, with its accessaries, is one of the 
most remarkable and ingenious pieces 
of mechanism which have been handed 
down to us from antiquity. It de- 
serves attention for its own sake, and 
also as affording strong corroborative 
evidence of the identity of the monu- 
ment. The opening is very small, 
and considerably below the floor of 
the vestibule ; the rock around it, too, 


_has been broken and destroyed, but 


enough remains to show its plan. 
Originally the door could only be 
approached by a straight subterranean 
corridor, 10 ft. long, the entrance to 
which was by a trap-door, closely 
covered with a flag. The landing- 


Tomb of Helena. 


149 


place below this trap-door was on the 
very brink of a well or pit, which 
could only be avoided by great cau- 
tion. Passing this and crawling along 
the low corridor, the door was found 
to be covered with a heavy circular 
slab of stone running in a groove, in- 
clining upwards to the 1., and could 
thus only be moved from its place by 
means of a lever pressing from rt. to 
1, This would have been a simple 
process, had the whole slab and groove 
been exposed ; but they were so care- 
fully concealed by the sides of the 
corridor, that they seemed a piece of the 
solid rock; and there was besides on 
the 1., in a little passage, another slab 
sliding in another groove at right an- 
gles to the former, which, being shot 
In, served as a bolt and made the 
door immovable. These complicated 
arrangements, combined with the 
strength of the materials, rendered 
the entrance impracticable except to 
the initiated. And there was in ad- 
dition an inner door invented to serve 
as a trap to the unwary robber. It 
was a massive slab of stone, fitting 
exactly into the deeply recessed 
opening, and so hung upon pivots 
above and below that it yielded to 
pressure from without, but imme- 
diately fell back into its place on the 
pressure being removed. Should any 
one be so unfortunate as to enter and 
leave the door for an instant, his 
fate was sealed; for it fitted so closely 
into the deep recess that he had no 
possible means of pulling it open 
again. The roof of the corridor is 
now broken away, and the corridor 
itself, as well as the pit at its original 
entrance, nearly filled up with rub- 
bish; but a careful examination and 
a little excavation lay bare the whole 
puzzle. 

An old derwish is generally at hand 
to guide travellers through the inte- 
rior; but it is always better to bring 
candles, torches, and suitable gar- 
ments from the city, for the vaults 
are dark, damp, and dirty. 

The first room we enter, after 
crawling through the low door, is a 
mere antechamber 18) ft. by 19. Its 
walls, and those of all the other 


150 


apartments, consist of the natural rock 
hewn smooth. On the 8. side are two 
low doors leading to other chambers, 
and on the W. one. The doors were 
once closed by stone slabs with carved 
panels, shutting from within, appa- 
rently on the same principle as the 
outer door: they are now broken, 
and the fragments lie scattered about. 
The first chamber on the S.E. mea- 
sures 11 ft, by 12, and has 8 low 
recesses on the eastern and south- 
ern sides, running into the walls 
at right angles, and intended for 
bodies. The second room adjoining 
is about 13 ft. sq., and has 3 recesses 
on the 8., and 8 on the W,; the 
central ones having higher openings. 
On the rt. hand of the entrance-door 
is a small door leading by a staircase 
and inclined plane down to an under- 
chamber, on each of three sides of 
which is a large arched niche, where 
sarcophagi of white marble once stood. 
They are now all broken; buat the 
lid of one is still there, finely orna- 
mented with wreaths of flowers. 

The door on the W. of the ante- 
chamber leads into an apartment 134 
ft. square, apparently one of the most 
important in the whole structure. It 
has no less than 9 recesses—3 on 
the N., 8 on the S., and 3 on the W. 
side; the central ones being larger 
and of a different plan. Passing 
through the central recess on the N., 
we enter a low door, and descend by 
an inclined plane to another vault, 
with an arched recess opposite the 
entrance, and one on the }. Here 
once lay the lid of a marble sarco- 
phagus, richly carved with wreaths 
and flowers. M. de Saulcy, on seeing 
it, immediately concluded that it was 
the veritable sarcopha of king 
David, and consequently carried it 
off to the Louvre, where the curious 
may now see it. 

ver most of the recesses for bodies 
are little triangular niches for sepul- 
chral lamps; and behind the recesses 
are small chambers, the openings of 
which seem to have been covered by 
the stone sarcophagi. May not these 
have been intended to contain such 
articles of value as were usually 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquites. 


Sect. II. 


placed in tombs of persons of distinc- 
tion? It would seem, also, that the 
two lower chambers or vaults were 
designed as the resting-places of the 
chief personages. Here alone were 
found richly sculptured marble asar- 
cophagi; and the vaults themselves 
were more remote and more carefully 
concealed than the others—each in 
fact forming a kind of sanctum. The 
accompan plan will serve to guide 
the traveller in his explorations, and 
enable the reader to comprehend the 
above details. It may be worthy of 
notice that each of the sepulchral 
chambers has a raised dais, or dewan, 
formed of the rock, round the sides, 
similar to those in some of the exca- 
vations at Petra. 

The first question one naturally 
asks after completing his examination 
of these tombs is, By whom were they 
constructed, and for whom were they 
intended? It is a singular fact that 
there is not an inscribed stone or 
sculptured device in or around them 
to throw a ray of light on their his- 
tory. In this respect, too, they re- 
semble the tombs of Petra; but are 
widely different from those of Egypt, 
Palmyra, and Rome, where not only 
every monument and excavation, but 
every niche, has its record. The no- 
tices of them in history are few and 
far from satisfactory. It is not strange 
therefore, that their origin and object 
ahould be keenly disputed. Almost 
every writer on the Holy City, who 
lays any claim to learning and ori- 
ginality, has deemed it necessary to 
have a theory of his own. M. de 
Baulcy has not only “demonstrated 
them ”’ to be the tombs of the kings 
of Judah; but by a signal triumph of 
antiquarian logic he has identified 
the particular niche of each monarch ! 
Mr. Fergusson, on the opposite ex- 
treme, maintains that “their architec- 
ture is undoubtedly later than the 
Christian era, and the slab, which de 
Saulcy calls the cover of the sarco- 
phagus of David, is certainly more 
modern than the time of Constantine.” 
Mr. Williams again betores them to be 

e *monuments of Herod,” and con- 


siders their splendour and extent en- 


——— 


JERUSALEM. 


tirely suited to the magnificent ideas 
of that great monarch, whose ambition 
it was to be the founder of a dynasty. 
Dr. Schultz identifies them with the 
“Royal Tombs” mentioned by Jo- 


sephus as being in the line of ip- 
as wall. And Dr. Robinson, ing 
istory and ancient topographica 
notices as his guides, shows this to 


be the Tomb of Helena. We have 
ample room here for selection, and 
most people will now think it waste 
of time to invent anything new. Se- 
riously, however, I feel inclined to 
adopt the last theory; believing that, 
if the arguments in favour of it do 
not amount to absolute proof, they at 
least reach the highest degree of pro- 
bability. But the reader shall judge 
for himself. 

Helena was the widowed queen of 
Monobazus, king of Adiabane. 
Having, with her son Izates, who 
succeeded to the throne, become a 
proselyte to Judaism, she fixed her 
residence at Jerusalem, where, during 
the prevalence of the famine pre- 
dicted by Agabus, in the days of 
Claudius Cesar (Acts xi. 28), she re- 
lieved multitudes of the poor suffering 
Jews by her unbounded liberality. 
Having determined to end her days 
- in the Holy City, she prepared her se- 
pulchre during her lifetime, as was then 
the custom, doubtless intending that 
her son and his family should also be 
buried in the same place. It so hap- 
pened that she and her son were con- 
signed to this tomb at the same time. 
May not their remains have been 
placed in those marble sarcophagi, 
the fragments of which were lately 
to be seen in the two lower 
vaults? 

The Tomb of Helena is thrice men- 
tioned by Josephus—once as marked 
by 3 pyramids, at a distance of 3 
stadia from the city; again, as oppo- 
site to the gate near which Titus first 
approached the city on the N.; and 
lastly, in the description of Agrippa’s 
wall as given above (§ 38). The py- 
ramids probably resembled those 
which surmount some of the tombs at 
Petra, and may have stood over the 
facade. They were etill here in the 


Tomb of Helena.” 


15} 


time of Eusebius, who mentions them 
as orfjAa S:apaveis. Jerome describes 
their position with some little defi- 
niteness. He states that, as Paula 
approached the city from the N., the 
mausoleum of Helena lay on the 1. 
The ancient northern is still 
here, passing close on the W. of these 
tombs, and we know from other 
incidental notices that Paula came 
to the city by it. Thus then the 
tomb of Helena, according to Jerome 
and Eusebius, lay E. of the road, 3 
stadia from the city, and this accords 
with the position of the excavations 
above described. The pyramids, in- 


| deed, are gone; and we could not ex- 


pect them to have remained, since 
the rock-hewn facade is well-nigh de- 
stroyed. But there is still a stronger 
argument for their identity in a de- 
scription given by the Greek writer 
Pausanias in the 2nd centy. “In 
speaking of the sepulchres he had seen, 
he mentions two as being worthy of 
particular admiration, viz. that of 

ing Mausolus in Caria, and that 
of Helena at Jerusalem. This latter 
he describes as remarkable for its 
door, which was of the same rock, 
and was so contrived that, when the 
returning year brought round a parti- 
cular day and hour, it then opened by 
means of mechanism alone, and after 
a short time closed again; had one 
tried to open it at another time, he 
must first have broken it with vio- 
lence.” It is impossible not to re- 
cognise in this exaggerated account 
the remarkable mechanism of the 
external door as above described. 
Doubtless the secret of its construc- 
tion was carefully preserved, and 
many fables circulated regarding it. 
The present state of the doorway 
shows that the latter part at least of 
Pausanias’s statement was true, and 
that it had to be broken ere an en- 
trance could be secured, Though the 
tomb of Helena was one of the most ce- 
lebrated monuments about Jerusalem 
during the first four centuries of our 
era, it was wholly overlooked from 
that time till near the close of the 
16th centy., when it was brought 
into notice again under the name 


152 


which it still bears, “The Tombs of 
the Kings.” 


The Tombs of the Judges.—Con- 
tinuing up the valley of Jehosha- 
phat or 4 m., we strike the path 
eading to Neby Samwil, following 
which 4 m. farther, we have some 
40 paces on our rt. the Tombs of the 
Judges. As we approach them we 
observe that the rocks on each side 
of the road are filled with ordinary 
sepulchres; but the so-called Tombs 
of the Judges are more extensive 
and more elaborately finished than 
any of the others—in fact, they are 
among the most interesting sepulchrat 
monuments around the ly City. 
To examine them fulby it is necessary 
to bring candles or torches. The 
entrance faces the W., and has an 
open vestibule, 13 ft. by 9; the sides 
and architreve ornamented with a 
plain moulding, and the latter sur- 
mounted by a curious pediment, with 
flowers and tracery surrounding’ 4 
torch in the centre, and having also a 
torch at each angle. In the back 
wall of the vestibule is a narrow door 
similarly ornamented, opening into 
the main chamber, 20 ft. by 19, and 
8 ft. high. On its N. side are two 
tiers of recesses; seven in the lower 
and six in the upper tier. On the 1. 
of the door is one recess. The centre 
of the S. wall is pierced by a door 
opening into a room 8 ft. square, con- 
taining: three recesses on each of its 
three sides, With an arched: niche or 
shelf over them. In the E. walf of the 


main' chamber is anvther door leading” 
into a chamber similar to that on the 


&.,-but with two tiers of recesses. At 
the N.E. angle of the main chamber 
a flight of steps leads down’ to two 
vaults with recesses and niches. In 
this sepulchre there are between 60 
and: 70 receptacles for bodies; and 
theré may perhaps be others still un- 
exploted: Beautiful: detailed plans 
and sections are given’ in’ Williams's 
* Holy City? 2na ed., vol. ii. 

Dr.. Robinson says he has been able 
to find nv notice of these tombs earlier 
than the time of Cotovicus (4.p. 1598), 
who gives them no name. Sandys, 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Jewish Antiquities, 


Sect, IT, 


in 1611, calls them the Sepulchres of 
the Prophets. Quaresimus first de- 
scribes them under their present name, 
and refers them to the Hebrew Judges 
of the Old Testament. But the name, 
however it originated, more probably 
had reference to the Judges.of the 
Sanhedrim ; and was applied in con- 
sequence of the fancied correspond- 
ence of the number of niches with 
the number of members composing 
that tribunal. 


Other Tombs may be seen along the 
high ground N. of the above, some of 
which would repay the time and 
trouble of a thorough exploration. 
One of peculiar interest was disco- 
vered a few years ago by Dr. Bar- 
clay, and a sketch and plan of it are 
given in Bartlett’s ‘Jerusalem Re- 
visited. It is situated about # m. 
N.E. of the Tombs of the Judges, 
and is surrounded by extensive foun- 
dations.and the remains of a consider- 
able town, called by the Arabs El-Mu- 
sahny. The ruins cover the two sides 
of a ravine which falls into Wady Beit 
Hanina from the E., and among them 
are some fragments of columns of an 
immense size. But the most interest- 
ing monument in the place is one of 
the large tombs. In front is an ir- 
regular area wholly excavated in the 
limestone rock, at one side of which 
is an open porch whose walls are cut 
in the Jewish bevelled style, to re- 
semble masonry; and most of this 
cutting is in ds perfect a state of pre- 
servation as if executed yesterday. 
A spacious round-arched door opens 
on a large chamber in whose sides are 
the usual recesses for bodies; and 
beyond it is another smaller chamber. 
This tomb is unquestionably Jewish ; 
and from its unique style of orna- 
ment is highly interesting. 


The Tomb or Monument of Herod is 
twice named by Josephus; first, when 
Titus intended to break up his camp 
on Scopus, and approach nearer the 
city, it is said that “he stationed a 
body of men, horse and foot, to check 
the sallies of the enemy, and em- 
ployed. the main body of his army in 


JERUSALEM. 


levelling the intervening ground as 
far as the walls.” He swept away 
the garden-walls, hedges, and fruit- 
trees, filled up hollows and chasms, 
removed eminences; “and thus the 
whole space from Scopus to the Mo- 
numents of Herod, adjacent to what is 
called the Serpent’s Pool, was reduced 
to a level.” (B. J. v. 3, 2.) At first 
sight it might appear that the ground 
spoken of as having been levelled 
was that between Scopus and the 
neighbouring wall on the N. of the 
city; and that, therefore, the monu- 
ments of Herod were somewhere near 
the N.E. angle. Buta glance at the 
nature of the ground, and an exami- 
nation of other incidental statements 
of Josephus, show plainly enough 
that this was not the section levelled. 
Immediately on the 8. of Scopus runs 
the deep valley of Jehoshaphat, and 
along its southern brow, as has been 
seen, was built the wall of Bezetha. 
No general would, therefore, select 
such a site for his camp, or com- 
mence his approaches from such a 
quarter, especially while he could 
find open and level ground a little 
farther W. But from a subsequent 
chapter of J osephus we learn that, 
when the levelling process was com- 
pleted and the place prepared, Titus 
encamped with one division opposite 
the N. W. corner of the city; while the 
other division extended itself down 
as far as the front of Hippicus. As 
the space which Titus levelled for 
the camp extended from Scopus on 
the one side to the monuments of 
Herod on the other, the latter must 
have been situated somewhere W. of 
Hippicus; and as the monuments are 
said to have been near the Serpent's 
Pool, this can be no other than the 
Upper Pool, now Birket el-Mamilla, 
which, as we have seen, Nehemiah 
calls the Dragon Well (ii. 18. See 
§ 47). And Josephus’s second notice 
of Herod’s monument shows that it 
must have been W. of the city and 


near this spot (B. J. v. 12, 2). Af 


short distance 8. of the upper pool 
may be seen some large masses of 
rubbish and ruins, covering a few 
sepulchral caves hewn in the rock. 


Ancient Tombs, §c. 


153 


These Dr. Schultz supposes to be the 
remains of the monuments of Herod ; 
and their position answers well to the 
notices of Josephus. ° 


The Grotto of Jeremiah is situated 
on the southern side of the rocky hill, 
a short distance N.E. of the Damas- 
cus Gate. It is a huge rude cave 
excavated in the rock, and appears to 
be a section of an old quarry. Dr. 
Schultz suggests that it may be the 
monument of Alexander Janneus, 
described by Josephus as in front of 
Antonia (B. J. v. 7,3). Beside it is 
another cave, latterly used as a reser- 
voir. A flight of steps hewn in the 
rock leads down to a chamber with a 
vaulted roof supported by a massive 
pillar, and from this another flight of 
steps descends to a much more spa- 
cious cave, vaulted in like manner. 
The walls and piers are covered, in 
both caves, with a thick coating of 
cement, 


§ 49. OTHER ANCIENT SITES. 


The Fullere’ Field is mentioned in 
the Old ‘Testament twiee ; first, where 
Isaiah is instructed to go forth to meet 
Ahaz “at the end of the conduit of 
the upper pool in the highway of the 
fullers’ field” (Isa. vii. 3); and again, 
where Rabshakeh and his companions 
“stood by the conduit of the upper pool 
in the highway of the fullers’ field ”’ 
(2 Kings xviii. 17). The upper 
pool is well known (§ 47). Near it 
the fullers, ‘ cleansers of woollen gar- 
ments,” apparently plied their trade, 
and spread out the clothes to dry 
alongside the great road leading past 
the pool from the W. gate of the city 
to Yafa. On this highway Rabshake 
stood when he delivered his haughty 
message to the servants of Hezekiah. 


The Camp of the Assyrians is ano- 
ther site of some importance, being 
mentioned by Josephus as the place 
where Titus pitched his own camp 
within the new city, after having 

H 3 


154 


broken through the 8rd or outer wall 
(B. J. v. 7,3). Dr. Schultz identifies 
it with the “highway of the fullers’ 
field,” because that there Rabshakeh 
the Assyrian stood. It does not ap- 
pear, however, that Rabshakeh ad- 
dressed the people on the wall from 
the midst of his camp; nor is it likely 
he would place his camp so near the 
city. When Titus fully recon- 
noitered Jerusalem, he pitched his 
camp, as has been seen, on the high 
ground to the N.W., opposite the 
great tower of Psephinos, and from 
that side it appears he made his 
principal attack, and finally carried 
the wall. An examination of the na- 
ture of the ground, and of the line of 
the 2nd wall, will show at once where 
a, skilful general would most probably 
establish his head-quarters to direct 
the approaches against the latter wall. 
The rising ground N.W. of the Da- 
mascus gate seems by far the most 
advantageous ; and here we may safely 
locate the “ Camp of the Assyrians.” 


5. CHRISTIAN ANTIQUITIES, 


§ 50. Tue Hoty Sepu.care.—Could 
we only guarantee the genuineness 
of the site, no spot in Jerusalem would 
be more deeply interesting than the 
Holy Sepulchre; but fortunately, -or 
unfortunately, it is wholly impossible 
to give a guarantee. The arguments 
in favour of it are so questionable, 
and those against it so strong, that no 
unprejudiced mind can at least feel 
satisfied in believing it. This is not 
the place for considering the subject 
at length, or even for an attempt to 
unravel the tangled mass of contro- 
versy which it has occasioned. Those 
who desire to see all that can be ad- 
vanced in fayour of its identity may 
read Mr. Williams's Holy City ; and 
those who wish to know all the argu- 
ments against it may study the learned 
Researches of Dr. Robinson. On this, 
as on other points conhécted with the 
ancient topography of Jerusalem, I 

‘ave formed my own’ opinion from 


Route 7.—Jerusalemn— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


repeated personal examination of the 
localities and a careful study of au- 
thorities. These opinions I respect- 
fully present to the reader and tra- 
veller, while calling their attention to 
the objects, and referring to authori- 
ties. 

The ent for the identity of 
the Holy Sepulchre turns mainly on 
the solution of two questions—one 

aphical, the other historical. 

e know from Scripture that our 
Lord was crucified “ without the gate ” 
of Jerusalem (Heb. xiii. 12), “nigh 
to the city” (John xix. 20), at a 
place called Golgotha, “ the place of 
a skull” (Matt. xxvii. 33), and appa- 
rently near or beside some public 
thoroughfare (Matt. xxvii. 39). We 
also know that the sepulchre in 
which His body was laid was “ hewn 
out of the rock” (Mark xv. 46), in a 
garden at the place of the crucifixion 
(John xix. 41, 42). This is all we 
know of the position or character of 
the tomb from contemporaneous -his- 
tory; but this is enough to suggest 
doubts and serious difficulties to the 
mind of every inquiring visitor to Je- 
rusalem, regarding the identity of 
the present site. The Church of 
the Sepulchre, within whose compre- 
hensive area a host of sacred sites are 
found grouped together, is far within 
the present walls. Still, if we could 
prove that it lay without the 2nd 
wall of the ancient city, it might be 
genuine : though even then it would 
be doubtful ; for it is unquestionably 
far within the 3rd wall, built by 
Agrippa only some 11 years subse- 
quent to the crucifixion, to enclose a 
large suburb that had gradually ex- 
tended beyond the 2nd wall (§ 38). 
The words “nigh to the city " could 
scarcely be interpreted within the 
suburbs. But if the views stated above 
(§ 37) re ing the position of Akra 
and the line of the 2nd wall be cor- 
rect, then the Ch. of the Sepulchre 
falls within the ancient city. 


The 2nd wall commenced at the 


| gate Gennath, in the northern wall! of 


Zion. This gate, as has been seen, 
was near Hippicus. From thence the 


JERUSALEM. 


wall ran northward so as to include 
the pool of Hezekiah. Ancient foun- 
dations of bevelled stones are still 
seen near the Latin convent, just 
within the present wall, and again at 
the Damascus gate. It cannot, of 
course, be demonstrated that these 
belonged to the 2nd wall; but it 
is highly probable they did; and 
if so, then the Ch. of the Se- 
pulchre neither includes the place 
of Christ’s crucifixion, nor of his 
burial. Those who maintain the ge- 
nuineness of the present sepulchre 
remove Akra from beside Zion to the 
ridge extending from the Haram to 
the Grotto of Jeremiah; and make 
the 2nd wall start from a point nearly 
half way between the citadel and the 
Haram, run N. along the covered ba- 
zaar until it just clears the E. end of 
the Ch. of the Sepulchre, then turn a 
little to the W. so as to include the 
ancient foundations around the Da- 
mascus gate. Granting that such a 
line were supported by any probable 
evidence, it would yet not very 
easy to believe that such a singular 
angle as is thus made to run into the 
very heart of the ancient city should 
have been wholly free from buildings, 
and used as a place of ordinary sepul- 
ture, so late as the time of the Cruci- 
fixion; and that only 11 years after- 
wards Agrippa should have found it 
necessary to build a wall a quarter of 
a mile beyond it, so as to include the 
suburbs, 


The Historical Evidence.—No one 
will deny that the apostles and dis- 
ciples of our Lord, who dwelt in Je- 
rusalem, knew the place where their 
Master was crucified, and the tomb 
where He was buried; but there is not a 
shadow of evidence in the New Testa- 
ment that these places were in any way 
honoured. On the contrary, the whole 
spirit of the Gospel of Christ—the 
whole writings and teachings of the 
Apostles—tended to withdraw men 
from an attachment to times, places, 
and physical objects, and to lead them 
to worship a Spiritual God in spirit 
and in truth, wherever they could 
conveniently assemble. The constant 


The Holy Sepulchre. 


155 


theme of Paul's preaching was the 
death and resurrection of our Lord ; 
but though he laboured and wrote for 
some five-and-thirty years after these 
events occurred, and though he vi- 
sited Jerusalem more than once dur- 
ing that time, he does not make the 
slightest allusion to the scenes of these 
events, or to the instrument of the 
Saviour’s passion. It is pretty clearly 
established, too, that the Apostle John 
wrote his Gospel towards the close 
of the Ist centy., or from 60 to 70 
years after the Crucifixion, and yet he 
only alludes to the sepulchre in gene- 
ral terms. It is thus sufficiently ap- 
parent that in the apostolic age no 
importance was attached, no honour 
given, to the holy places. In the year 
4.D. 70 the city was captured, burned, 
and all destroyed with the exception 
of a section of the wall of Zion. The 
Christians had previously fled to Pella, 
on the E. of the Jordan, and the time 
of their return is uncertain. The city 
was rebuilt by Adrian 4.p. 132; was 
captured and held by the rebel Jews 
shortly after; was retaken about a.p. 
135, strongly fortified, and adorned 
with stately temples by the Ro- 
mans. During all this time, both 
under Jewish and Roman rule, the 
Christians only lived on sufferance ; 
circumstances were not thus very 
favourable for preserving the know- 
ledge of places to which the inspired 
apostles had attached no importance, 
or for giving them honour to which 
the spirit of their religion was op- 
posed. 

It is not, in fact, until the 4th 
centy., or about 300 years after the 
Crucifixion, that we find any refer- 
ence in history to the site of the 
Holy Sepulchre. Eusebius informs 
us, in language somewhat extra- 

nt, “that impious men, or 
rather the whole race of demons 
through the agency of impious men, 
had laboured to deliver over that 
illustrious monument of immortality 
(the Holy Sepulchre) to darkness and 
oblivion’ (Vita Constan. iii. 26). 
They had ‘covered the sepulchre, it 
seems, with earth brought from other 
places, and had erected over it a 


y 


156 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. IT, 


temple of Vents, Jerome, writing to- | “the sign of the Saviour's most sa- 


wards the close of the 4th centy., is 
more explicit than Eusebius, as he in- 
forms us that the temple of Venus was 


built by Adrian; that a marble sta- 


tue of the goddess was set up on the 
rock of the Cross, and an image of 
Jupiter over the place of the Resurrec- 


tion. Socrates, writing 50 years later, 


ig more explicit still, for after telling 
the same story he adds, “ Those who 
followed the faith of Christ, after his 
death, rendered’ to that monument 
(the sepulchre) the highest honour ” 
(Hist, Eccl. i. 17). Sozomon:. a: still 
later author, adds that the enemies of 
Christianity set up this statue of Ve 
nus in order that Ohristians who came 
to worship at the sepulchre might 
have the appearance of worshipping 
that goddess (H. H. ii. 1). It will 
at once be observed how entirely 
opposed these statements are to the 
language of the apostles and the spi- 
rit of their teaching. Even supposing 
we admit their accuracy, and grant 
that Adrian knew the true sites of 
Golgotha and the sepulchre, it is not 
easy to imagine what object the em- 
peror could have had in thus insulting 
an obscure sect. His design, as history 
tells us, in establishing his new city of 
Zélia, was to insult the Jews, from 
whom the Christians were at that 
time'vlearly distinguished. There are 
other circumstances, however, which 
seem to cast greater doubt on the tes- 
timony of these historians, 

Eusebius, after stating how impious 
men and demons had combined to 
deliver over the sepulchre to darkness 
and oblivion, informs us that the em- 
peror Constantine, “not without a 
divine admonition, the Saviour him- 
self prompting him,” became desirous 
of performing “a glorious work” in 
Palestine, by beautifying and render- 
ing sacred the place of the resurrection 
of our Lord (Vit. Const. iii. 26, seq.). 
He caused the sanctuary of Venus to 
be removed, the earth and stones to 
be cast aside, and the holy cave laid 
bare. It was then purified and 
adorned with splendid buildings. The 
emperor, in his letter to Macarius, the 
‘ishop, speaks of the discovery of 


cred passion, which had so long been 
hidden below the ground,” as “a mi- 
racle beyond the capacity of man suf- 
ficiently to eelebrate, or even to com- 
prehend.” The buildings were com- 
pleted and dedicated in the 30th year 
of his reign, 4.D. 385. On this occa- 
sion a great council of bishops was 
convened by his order from all the 
provinces of the empire, firat at Tyre 
anti then at Jerusalem. Among these 
was Eusebius himself, who took a pro- 
minent in the solemnities, and 
delivered several public discourses in 
the Holy City. Such is the substance 
of Eusebius's account, and he was an 
eyewitness of the facts he records. 
It is somewhat remarkable, however, 
to find the historians who wrote in 
the succeeding centy. far more full 
in their details, and yet differing con- 
siderably from him as to the leading 
facts. They all state that it was 
ena, Constantine’s mother, who 
was directed by divine interposition 
to search for antl discover the Holy 
Sepulchre, the true Cross, and the se- 
veral minute localities of the Saviour’s 
crucifixion’ and burial. On her arrival 
at Jerusalem she instituted inquiries 
among the inhabitants; and, after a 
long‘and difficult search, found the se- 
pulchre,-and by its side three crosses, 
with the tablet bearing the inscription ! 
As the tablet was separated from the 
cross, they were unable for the moment 
to identify that on which the Saviour 
suffered, until the wisdom of Macarius 
suggested an infallible test. A noble 
lady of: Jerusalem lay sick of an in- 
curable disease; the three crosses 
were presented to her in succession : 
the two first produced no effect ; 
but, at the approach of the third, 
she opened her eyes, recovered her 
strength, and sprang from her bed in 
perfect health! Such proof was of 
course irresistible. According to these 
later writers, also, it was Helena, and 
not Constantine, who caused the 
church to be erected and the Holy 
Places adorned. (Socrates, E. H. EF. 
i. 17; Sozom. H. &. ii. 1,2; Theod. 

H. E. i. 18.) 
I have given the above summary to 


JERUSALEM. . 


put the reader im possession of the 
leading statements found in the earli- 
est historians about the dedication of 
the Holy Places, and the founding of 
the Church of the Sepulchre. It will 
not fail to strike the student of his- 
tory that the main object of all these 
writers evidently is to impress devout 
Christians with the identity of the 
sites fixed by Constantine or Helena; 
and that they are not over scrupulous 
as to the means they employ. Divine 
intimations, miraculous tests, and 
doubtful stories about the precise 
location of idol statues, are all ad- 
duced in evidence, and gradually em- 
bellished with graphic details as time 
advances. Eusebius's faint outline, 
sketched from nature on the spot, be- 
comes a full and glowing picture un- 
der the pencil of Theodoret. 

It cannot be doubted, however, that at 
the time specified a sepulchre was ex- 
posed to view, a cross “ invented,” and 
a ch. erected, upon the spot where the 
Church of the Sepulchre now stands. 
More than this it is somewhat bold to 
affirm, and somewhat difficult to be- 
lieve. The sepulchre is minutely de- 
scribed by Eusebius as a cave hewn in 
the rock, which projects above the 
level ground, In the Jerusalem Itine- 
rary (A.D. 333) it is said to be a 

t, a stone's throw from the “little 
hill of Golgotha.” Cyril, Bishop of 
Jerusalem, writing.a few years later, 
speaks of an outer cave which was re- 
moved when the sepulchre was dedi- 
cated. Arculf in the 8th centy. gives 
a very clear account of its appearance 
at that time. ‘“ Within (the church), 
on the N. side, is the tomb of our Lord 
hewn out of the same rock, 7 ft. in 
length, and rising 3 palms above the 
floor, This tomb is broad enough to 
hold one man lying on his kx, 
and has a raised division in the stone 
to separate his legs. The entrance is 
on the 8. side. Internally the stone 
of the rock remains in its original state, 
and still exhibits the marks of the 
workmen's tools; its colour is not uni- 
form, but appears to be a mixture of 
white and red.” In position and ge- 
neral features, the sepulchre corre- 
sponds, so far as one can see it, with 


Church of the Sepulchre. 


157 


these descriptions ; but as it is almost 
wholly covered with marble and taste- 
less finery, it is impossible to tell 
whether the natural rock remains. 

Whatever opinion may be formed 
as to the genuineness of the sepulchre, 
and all the * Holy Places” round it, 
every traveller will wish to visit them. 
} shall, therefore, describe the places 
in detail, after giving a brief historical 
sketch of the building which contains 
them. 


Historical Sketch of the Church.— 
The group of buildings erected by 
command: of Constantine was, com- 
menced in A.D. 326, and dedicafed in 
835. Eusebius describes these build- 
ings, but so briefly and vaguely that 
he is scarcely intelligible. The “sa- 
ered:cave”’ was first ornamented with 
beautiful columns and other decora- 
tions. Modern writers have supposed 
that the ledge of rock in the face of 
which, they think, the tomb was ex- 
eavated: was first cut away so as to 
leave the latter an isolated monolith ; 
but for this supposition there is no 
evidence. Eusebius's words are even 
opposed to it, for he observes, “It was 
astonishing to see this rock standin 
out erect and alone on level land, an 
having but one cave within it.” Had 
there been any extensive excavation 
then made around it, he could not 
have thus written. Around the tomb 
as a sanctum was an open paved area, 
with cloisters on the N., W., and 8.— 
probably corresponding with the form 
and circuit of the present Rotunda. 
On the EK. stood a great Basilica, ob- 
long, with double aisles on each side, 
A vaulted apse, supported by 12 co- 
lumns with silver capitals, occupied 
the centre of the W. end; while op- 
posite to it on the E. was a triple door- 
way. The interior was ornamented 
with costly marbles, and the ceiling 
with sculptured panels richly gilt. 
To this church was given the name 
Martyrion, as standing on the place of 
our Saviour’s passion; and the chapel 
at the sepulchre was called the Anas- 
tasis or “ Resurrection.” In front of 
the basilica was an open court sur- 
rounded by cloisters, opening by a 


158 


great door and portico into the mar- 
place on the E. The only “ Holy 
Places "’ identified during the period 
these buildings stood were the sepul- 
chre and Golgotha. A full description, 
accompanied by plans, of the build- 
ings erected by Sonstantine, may be 
seen in Professor Willis's Essay, in the 
2nd vol. of Williams's Holy City. The 
plans and drawings are, of course, only 
conjectural. 
he Martyrion of Constantine was 
wholly destroyed by the Persians in 
the year 614; but was rebuilt about 
16 yrs. later, principally through the 
activity of Modestus, superior of the 
convent of Theodosius, who acted as 
agent during the captivity of the pa- 
triarch. he buildings were now 
erected on a different plan, partly from 
want of funds, and partly to accom- 
modate the additional “Holy Places | 
at were ually growing up roun 
the | copie he fullest eceount 
of these buildings is given by. Arculf, 
who visited J ensalenn in the begif- 
ning of the 8th centy. Around the 
sepulchre was 8 spacious Rotunda, 
with a dome supported on 12 massive 
columns. This was called the Anasta- 
sis. Adjoining, on the N., was the 
quadrangular church of St. Mary. 
nother ch. was built over Gol the; 
and the precise spot in whic e 
CTOSS stood was now marked by a sil- 
ver cross let into the rock. In anad- 
joining apse were placed the identical 
silver cup which our Lord used when 
he instituted the Eucharist, and the 
sponge which the soldiers had filled 
with vinegar and presented to Him on 
the cross! These Arculf saw and 
devoutly kissed. On the eastern side 
of Golgotha stood the Basilica of Con- 
stantine,— so called then, but now 
known as the chapel of Helena— 
“located over the place where the 
cross of our Lord, with the other two 
crosses of the thieves, was found, by 
the gift of the Lord, after 233 yrs. 
Between these two churches (con- 
tinues Arculf) is that celebrated spot 
where Abraham the patriarch erected 
an altar for the sacrifice of Isaac.” 
Arculf saw some other singular relics, 
and among them the spear that 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


pierced the Saviour’s side, broken in 
two and carefully deposited in the 
portico of the Martyrion. He observ- 
ed also “a lofty column in the holy 
places to the N., which at midday at 
the summer solstice casts no shadow, 
thus proving that it stands in the 
centre of the world.”—Early Travels 
in Palestine, pp. 2, 3. 

These structures were again wan- 
tonly destroyed by the mad khalif 
Hakim in the year 1010, and were not 
rebuilt till1048. Saewulf, an English 
monk who followed the crusaders to 
Palestine, and visited Jerusalem about 
1103, gives a long description of the 
groups of buildings then standing 
round the Holy Sepulchre; from 
which it appears that the Rotunda, 
and the churches of Golgotha and of 
the Cross, were only in part restored ; 
while several other chapels were 
added. A whole host of new holy 
places are also mentioned and describ- 
ed. These include the prison in which 
our Lord was incarcerated; the co- 
lumn to which He was bound wher 
scourged; the place where He was 
stripped by the soldiers; the spot 
where the purple robe was put on 
Him; the place where the soldiers 
cast lots for His raiment; the rent in 
the -rock made by the earthquake ; 
the place where Adam was raised from 
the dead; the place where the Lord's 
body was wrapped in the linen clothes ; 
the spot where the Lord indicated 
with His own hand the centre of the 
world ; the place where He appeared 
to Mary Magdalene; and the place 
where the Virgin stood during the 
crucifixion |! Ud. pp. 37, 38.) 

Such was the state of the buildings 
when the crusaders took Jerusalem in 
1099. During their rule all was re- 
modelled, and many new shrines add-- 
ed of course. The Rotunda was in 
part rebuilt; and a ch. with nave, 
aisles, and transept erected on its 
eastern side, on the site of Constan- 
tine’s Basilica. The western facade, 
including the present doorway and 
tower, was also built, with the chapel 
over Golgotha. The roof of the Ro- 
tunda is said to have been constructed 
of cedar beams; but this is very 


JERUSALEM. 


doubtful. There are no cedars in 
Syria except the little solitary grove 
high up on Lebanon, consisting of 
some 400 trees, which appear to have 
neither increased nor diminished 

eatly for several centuries. “Cedar 
beams ” sound well, and make an im- 
pression in books of travels; but I 
question whether cedar has been 
once used for architectural purposes 
in this country for near 2000 yrs. The 
pine of Lebanon, which is still abun- 
dant, is usually mistaken for cedar. 
I would again refer to Mr. Willis’s 
excellent Essay for a full description 
of the buildings erected by the cru- 
saders, where plans and sectional 
drawings are also given. 

The buildings round the Church of 
the Sepulchre remained in the state 
in which the crusaders left them, with 
the exception of some slight repairs, till 
the year 1808, when they were greatly 
damaged and partly destroyed by fire. 
The fire broke out in the chapel of 
the Armenians, in‘ gallery on the 8. 
side of the Rotunda, during the night 
of Oct. 12th. The roof of the Ro- 
tunda fell in upon the sepulchre, but 
the latter, thaugh crushed without, 
was. uninjured within. The marble 
colums which supported the great 
dome were calcined, and the walls in- 
jured. The fire then caught the ch. 
on the E., destroying the roof and 
some marble columns at the E. end of 
the nave, the triforium gallery, and all 
the altars, images, and pictures. The 
cupola was rent in two, but the piers 
and arches supporting it remained. 
The Chapel of the Elevation of the 
Cross on Golgotha was also burnt, 
with some wooden buildings formerly 
attached to it. The tower, the west- 
ern facade, the chapel of Helena, the 
aisle surrounding the ch., and the 
chapel and buildings of the Latins on 
the N., were all saved. It is not very 
easy, however, to ascertain precisely 
the amount of damage done, owing to 
the different accounts given by dif- 
ferent sects, and the curious fact that 
both Greeks and Latins describe with 
much exultation the ravages of the 
fire on the Holy Places of their op- 
ponents, contrasting this with the 


Church of the Sepulchre. 


159 


miraculous manner in which their own f 
were left unscathed. 
It was not without much difficulty 
and long negotiations that permission 
was obtained from the Porte to re- 
build the ch. When this was obtain- 
ed, and all the necessary bribes ad- 
ministered to the high dignitaries of 
the empire at Constantinople and the 
petty officers in Jerusalem, difficul- 
ties and disputes arose among the 
Christian sects themselves concerning 
their respective shares. At last the 
work was completed; and the new 
ch. ag it now stands was consecrat 
in 1810, The architect was a Greek 
named Commenes from Mitylene. 


DESCRIPTION OF THE CHURCH AND 1TS 
VARIOUS SHRINES, 


We are now prepared for a detailed 
description of this interesting structure 
—for interesting it is, whatever opinion 
may be formed about the genuineness 
of its shrines. There are few Christ- 
ian men who could approach the place 
even supposed to be the tomb of the 
Saviour without feelings of deepest 
solemnity and awe; but there are 
fewer still who could bear to look 
without feelings of righteous indigna- 
tion on a host of the most barefaced 
impostures clustered round the spot 
where the God of Truth once appeared 
in the flesh. 

We reach the southern, and now 
the only, entrance of the Church of 
the Sepulchre, by a narrow, crooked, 
and not over-clean street, sometimes 
called Palmer Street. After descend- 
ing a flight of rude steps we come to 
a small open paved court, along whose 
side, as we go down into it, we observe 
the bases of a rew of columns, which 
probably at one time supported clois- 
ters. On the W. side are 2 chapels, 
with projecting apses, built before the 
age of the crusades. The first is dedi- 
cated to St. James, the brother of our 
Lord, of whom tradition says that “ he 
celebrated mass and was consecrated 


160 


here.” The second was originally 
called the Chapel of the Trinity, and 
Beugnot remarks that all the women 
of the city were married, and all the 
children baptized in it. It is now 
named the Church of the Ointment- 
bearers — that is, Mary Magdelene and 
her companions; and is the parish 
ch, of the Greeks. There is another 
small chapel, dedicated to St. John, 
in a line with the above, on the base- 
ment story of the great tower. On 
the opposite side of the court is a 
range of modern buildings into which 
8 doors open. That next the street 
admits to the Greek monastery of 
Abraham ; the second to an Armenian 
ch. of St. John; and the third to the 
Coptic Chapel of St. Michael and All 
Saints, through which there is a pas- 
sage to the Coptic convent. 


The fagade of the Church of the 
Sepulchre occupies the whole north- 
ern side of the court, standing thus at 
the end of the 8. transept. It is a 
pointed Romanesque composition, 
dark, heavy, and yet picturesque. 
The lower story has a wide double 
doorway with detached shafts support- 
ing richly sculptured architravea, re- 
presenting in bold relief our Lord’s 
triumphant entry into Jerusalem ; 
over these rise carved and deeply 
moulded arches. ‘The western section 
alone is now open, the other having 
been apparently walled up ever since 
the time of the crusades. In the 
upper story are two rich corresponding 
windows slightly pointed. The string- 
courses are bold and finely sculptured. 
On the 1., projecting from the facade, 
stands the remnant of the massive 
campanile—once noble tower of 5 
stories, but now cut down to 3. The 
lower story is the Chapel of St. John ; 
the 2nd has on each of its 3 sides a 
large pointed window; and the 3rd, 
which rises heavily above the roof of 
the ch., is ornamented on each faee 
with plain pointed windows. The 
4th and 5th were still standing in 
1678, when they were sketched by 
Le Brun. On the rt. of the facade is 
a small projecting porch of the same 
age, with an ornamented window and 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


little cupola. In the basement is a 
chapel dedicated to St. Mary of 


Egypt. 


The Interior —On entering the ch. 
the first thing that attracts attention 
is a bench on the left, on which squat 
the Turkish guards stationed here to 
preserve peace among the rival sects 
that crowd the sacred building. This, 
as has been stated, is the 8. transept ; 
but from the peculiar arrangement 
of the chapels of Golgotha on the 
rt., and the filling up of the great arch 
admitting to the nave in front, it has 
now all the appearance of a vestibule. 
Directly in front of the door is a mar- 
ble slab, like a tombstone, fixed in the 
pavement, and surrounded by a low 
railing, with several lamps suspended 
over it. This is the Stone of Unction 
(1 on the plan), upon which the Lord’s 
body was laid for anointing when 
taken from the cross. The real stone 
lies below the marble, which has only 
been placed here to protect the relic 
from the pious hands of eager pilgrims. 
The tradition is first mentioned by 
Saewulf in the 12th centy., and there 
stood over the spot then a Chapel of 
the Virgin. Another stone, for which 
the same honour was claimed, was 
long preserved at Ephesus, from 
whence it was taken to Constanti- 


/nople by the emperor Manuel, and. 


was finally deposited in the Ch. of - 
Pantocrater, near that monarch’s se- 
pulchre. This part of the building is 
common to all sects. Turning to the 
l. and advancing a few paces, we ob- 
serve in the e a circular stone 
with a railing over it (2); it marks 
the spot on which the Virgin Mary 
stood when the body of Jesus was 
anointed. This section belongs to the 
Armenians, and the stairs on the 1. 
lead up to their quarters. 


We now enter the Rotunda, 67 ft. 
in diameter, encircled by 18 mas- 
sive piers, supporting a clerestory 
ierced with windows and surmounted 
y a dome having an opening at the 
top, like the Pantheon. <A vaulted 
aisle runs round the western half of 
the Rotunda; it was formerly open, 


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162 


and had three small apses on the N., 
W., and 8. The apses still remain, 
but the aisle is divided into 7 com- 
partments, and portioned out among 
the various sects, Over it are two 
ranges of galleries.. 


In the very centre of the Rotunda 
stands the Hoty Seputcure, covered 
by a building 26 ft. long by 18 broad, 
rounded, or rather pentagonal at the 
W.end. It is wholly cased in yellow 
and white stone, ornamented with 
slender semicolumns and pilasters, and 


surmounted by a dome somewhat re- 


sembling a crown. It is a tasteless, 
meaningless fabric, reminding one of 
an overgrown cage. The entrance is on 
the E., where a low door opens from a 
small enclosed area, in which natives 
leave their shoes, into the first apart- 
ment (3), called the Chapel of the 
Angel, for here the ange! sat on the 
stone that had been rolled away from 
the door of the sepulchre. In the 


middle of the floor, on a small pedes- | “4; 


tal, stands this stone itself, or rather a 
fragment of it, 18 in. square, Some 
affirm, however, that the real stone 
was stolen by the Armenians, and is 
now in the chapel of the palace of 
Caiaphas, outside the Zion Gate. At 
the western extremity of this gloomy 
antechamber id a low narrow door, 
through which a strong light is shed. 
Btooping low, we, enter, and stand 
within the Sepulchre (4). It is a quad- 
rangular vault, about 6 ft. by 7, with 
a dome roof supported on short marble 
pillars. The sepulchral couch oceu- 
pies the whole of the rt. side as we 
enter; it is raised nearly 3 ft. above 
the floor, and is covered with a slab 
of white marble, cracked through the 
centre, and much worn at the edge by 
the lips of numerous pilgrims. The 
slab now serves as an altar, and is gar- 
nished with a profusion of tasteless, 
tawdry ornaments, grim-looking pic- 
tures, and a bas-relief of the Resur- 
rection. Over it 42 lamps of gold and 
silver burn continually, shedding a 
t per- 


fumes and sweet incense fill the air. 


Here I have often lingered—solem- 


nized, almost awe-stricken—looking 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. I. 


at pilgrim after pilgrim, in endless 
succession, crawling in on bended 
knees, bowing lips and forehead and 
cheeks to the cold marble, bathing it 
with tears, and sobbing until the very 
heart seemed breaking—then drag- 
ging himself away, still in the attitude 
of devotion, until the threshold is 
again crossed. The vault is said to be 
hewn in the living rock; but not a 
vestige of it is now seen; the floor, 
tomb, walls—all are marble; while 
the upper part is so blackened by the 
smoke of lamps and incense that it is 
impossible to sée what it is composed 
of. The rock may be there; but if 
so— 


Oh! if the lichen now were free to twine 

O'er the dark entrance of that rock-hewn cell, 
Say, should we miss the gold-encrusted shrine, 
Or incense fumes’ intoxicating spell ? 

Would not the whispering breeze, as evening 


fell, 
Make music tm the palm-trees’ shade 


‘Than choral prayer or chanted ritual’s swell? 
Can the proud shafts of Helena’s colonnade 
Match thy time-bonoar'd stems, Gethsemane’s 
Y glade: 


The Rotunda and its adjuncts.— 
Leaving this holy shrine and turning 
westward, we observe behind the se- 
pulchre, clinging to its wall, the hum- 

le oratory of the poor friendless 
Copts (5). Proceeding to the western 
side of the Botands, we enter a little 
gloomy chapel of the Syrians in the 
aisle, and extendin into a semicircular 
apse, from the S. side of which a low 
door opens into a smallirreguler rock- 
hewn grotto. Getting candles from 
an attendant, we enter, and observe on 
the opposite side two recesses, some- 
thi ike those for bodies in the 
Tombs of the Judges, but much smallcr 
and ruder. In the floor are two other 
grave-like pita, about 3 ft. long. These 
—some say those in the floor, others 
those in the wall—are the tombe of 
Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus, 
Considerable importance has of late 
been attached to them, as tending to 
prove that there were ancient tombs 
at this place, and that therefore it 
must have been without the city. 
Now, granting that these tombs are 
ancient, and that there may have been 


JERUSALEM. . 


another near them, this does not ad- 
vance the argument in favour of the 
Holy Sepulchre in the least; for we 
know from Scripture that it was no 
uncommon thing for men to have their 
tombs within the walls of cities, and 
even in their own houses, And be- 
sides, we have no clue to the date of 
these excavations—they may be of 
any age, from Melchizedek to king 
Baldwin. 

Returning to the Rotunda and cross- 
ing to its northern side, we observe a 
passage leading through a section of 
the aisle to the northern apse, and 
through this to a kind of rough court- 
yard, in which is a large subterranean 
cistern called the Well of Helena (7). 
The baptistery of the old ch. was 
just outside the apse; on its site are 
some offices and apartments for ser- 
vants. 


Returning again to the Rotunda, and 


turning sharply round a pier to the 1., 
we enter the Frank section of the 
building. There is here an open space 
forming a kind of vestibule to the 
chapel beyond. In advancing we pass 
first a round marble stone let into the 
pavement (8), where Christ appeared 

- to Mary Magdalene in the likeness of 
a gardener. <A few feet: farther, ano- 

, ther stone, like a star, shows the spot 
where Mary stood (9). On the northern 
side of the vestibule we ascend a few 
steps, and enter 


The Chapel of the Apparition, so 
. called because here, tion affirms, 
our Lord appeared to Mary his mother 
t after the Resurrection. This chapel 
is first mentioned by Saewulf in 1102, 
and must have been erected in the 
preceding centy., probably to give a 
local habitation to the newly invented 
sites. Fabri says it stands on the site 
of a house in which the Virgin took 
refuge after the Crucifixion. It has 
been in possession of the Franciscans 
since 1257, but they were not full 
established in their title to it unti 
Robert king of Sicily obtained per- 
mission of the Mohammedan authori- 
ties in 1342. The chapel is quad- 
rangular, 28 ft. by 21, with a deep re- 
cess at the E. end containing the high 


Church of the Sepulchre.. 


163 


altar. Near the centre of the floor 
the spot is shown where our Lord ap- 
peared to His mother after the resur- 
rection (10); and between this and 
the altar is a marble slab marking the 
place where the crosses were laid 
after their discovery by Helena, and 
where the true cross was identified by 
a miracle (11). On the S. side of the 
altar is a niche, now covered over (12), 
containing a fragment of a porphyry 
column, called the column of the 
Flagellation, being a piece of that to 
which the Saviour was bound when 
scourged by order of Pilate. A rival 
column is preserved at Rome in the 
Ch. of St. Praxede; but I cannot take 
upon me to say which is the real one 
—probably they have about equal 
claims. The story is told that, the 
original column on Zion having been 
sacrilegiously broken by the Muslems, 
the pieces were collected in 1556, 
and distributed among the Catholic 
sovereigns of Europe, one fragment 
being preserved and placed in a niche 
where it now stands. This is perhaps 
the reason why the niche is so care- 
fully covered up, that such a precious 
relic may be kept safe. A round hole 
is left in the covering, through which 
a long stick, like a broom-handle, is 
thrust by the pilgrim till it touches 
the column, and then drawn out and 
rapturously kissed. In another covered 
niche, on the northern side of the 
altar, was once preserved a, still more 
sacred relic—nothing less than a piece 
of the true cross, discovered by a cer- 
tain father Bonifacius, while the se- 
pulchre was undergoing repair, in the 
16th centy. But it was stolen long 
ago by the Armenians—so at least the 
Latins affirm. 

In this little chapel is still per- 
formed the interesting ceremony of 
investing such as are deemed worthy 
with the order of St. John of Jerusa- 
lem. Although this no longer confers 
the same high social distinction it once 
did, yet its associations are among 
the moat lofty and heroic of any order 
in Christendom. It is required that 
the aspirant be of the Catholic faith 
and of noble birth; though the latter 
rule is sometimes relaxed, or at least 


« 


" 164 


& too strict inquiry is not always insti- 


tuted into family records. “ Kneeling |. T 


before the superior of the Latin con- 
vent, he answers the various questions 
proposed, joins in the prayer of con- 
secration, and is girt with the sword 
and spurs of the heroic Godfrey ; that 
trenchant blade wielded by the Chris- 
tian hero in many a well-fought field, 
and with which he is said to have 
cloven to the middle a Saracen of 
gigantic stature—relics that cannot be 
handled even now without some glow 
of feeling.” 

Returning to the vestibule, we enter a 
long corridor on the 1. running eastward, 
parallel to the aisle of the Greek ch. 
It is of an earlier date than the latter, 
and may have formed part of a cloister 
surrounding an open court before the 
ch. was built. At the eastern end, 
two steps down, is a low dark cham- 
ber, 19 ft. by 17, partly hewn in the 
rock. The vaulted roof rests on rude 
piers, and at the E. end is an altar with 
a dim lamp. This is styled by a tra- 
dition as old as the 12th centy. the 
“prison of our Lord” (13), where He 
was confined previous to his cruci- 
fixion. It looks like an old reservoir, 
On the rt. side of the door without is 
an altar, beneath which is a stone with 
two holes in it (14), dignified by the 
title of the “ Bonds of Christ.” 


The Greek Church—Crossing the 
northern aislefrom the prison, we enter 
the Greek ch. by a side door. It is 
the nave of the great building; but is 
now divided from the aisles by high 
wooden partitions, richly carved and 
pill, to save the orthodox from all un- 

oly contact with heretics and schis- 
matics. This nave is curiously ar- 
ranged. On the W. it opens by a 
noble pointed arch, now filled up with 
a modern screen, into the Rotunda, and 
directly facing the entrance to the 
Holy Sepulchre. Within this arch is 
the central lantern supported by 4 


massive piers about 40 ft. apart, and 


' §2 high to the spring of the arches. 
At the eastern end the nave termi- 
nates, behind a richly-gilt screen, in a 
semicircle of piers, beyond which the 
aisle runs uninterrupted. The whole 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Christian Antiquities. . 


Sect. TI, 


length is 98 ft. and the breadth 40. 
he style of architecture was origin- 
ally Romanesque, corresponding to 
the southern facade; but having been 
much injured by the great fire in 1808, 
it was reconstructed more in accord- 
ance with Greek taste. The arches 
and piers of the lantern still preserve 
their former character, and will be 
regarded with interest as memorials of 
the crusades. To understand the sin- 
gular form and arrangements of this 
ch., it must be remembered that when 
built by the crusaders it was intended 
for a choir only, and adapted to the 
Latin service. A convent of Augus- 
tinian canons was then placed in pos- 
session of the whole; but when the 
crusaders were expelled by Saladin, 
the Greeks got possession and have 
ever since retained it. Accordingly 
it is now fitted in their manner with a 
huge wooden screen cutting off the 
semicircular apse and half the pres- 
bytery. The high altar (15) stands 
in the centre of the apse, with the 
patriarch’s throne (16) behind it. The 
choral seats still remain on each side, 
between the massive piers. Beside 
the 8.E. pier of the lantern is placed 
the seat of the patriarch of Jerusalem 
(17); and at the opposite one are 
chairs for such of the other patriarchs 
as may be present (18). Beneath the 
centre of the lantern is a circle of 
marble pavement, on which stands a 
short marble column (19), said by a 
tradition as old as the 8th centy. to 
mark the centre of the earth. Since 
then it has attained to even higher 
nominal rank, for Saewulf assures us 
that “our Lord Himself signified with 
His own hand that this spot is the 
middle of the world, according to the 
words of the Psalmist, ‘ For God is my 
king of old, making salvation in the 
midst of the earth.’” (!) Fabri tells an 
amusing story of a companion of his 
who, perhaps being a little sceptical, 
determined to prove the point; and 
accordingly paid a large sum for per- 
mission to ascend the cupola, and 
thus observe whether or no the sun 
gave him a shadow at noon! A still 
later tradition affirms that it was from 
this distinguished spot the clay was 


JERUSALEM, . 


taken out of which Adam was mo- 
delled! The whole ch, is lavishly and 
gaudily decked with carving, gilding, 
lamps, chandeliers, and ostrich-eggs 
hanging in clumps from the roof; 
while numbers of grim pictures cover 
the piers and altar-screen, 


The Aisle, as I have stated, and as 
may be seen on the plan, encircles 
the ch., communicating on each side 
with the transepts and Rotunda, and 
forming the usual procession-path of 
Romanesque buildings ; it now affords 
a free e for rival sects to the 
various stations, chapels, and altars. 


Returning to this aisle by the door 
opposite the prison, we resume our 
walk eastward. We soon come to 
a little apse on the left (20), with an 
altar in it dedicated to St. Longinus 
the centurion, who, according to the 
spurious Gospel of Nicodemus, pierced 
the side of our Saviour. In this place 
was once preserved a relic of won- 
drous rarity—no less than the actual 
title which Pilate affixed to the cross. 
It has been removed to Rome, where 
it may be seen by the faithful in the 
ch. of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. 
A few paces farther, at the extreme 
E. end of the building, is another 
apse-chapel (21), called the “Chapel 
of the Division of the Vestments; ” 
being built over the very spot where 
the soldiers divided among them the 
raiment of Christ. A few feet south- 
ward is a door leading to the 


Chapel of Helena.—Entering the 
narrow door, we descend a long stair- 
case of 29 steps, partly hewn in 
the rock, and enter what is in the 


! 


present day the most striking and 
picturesque building connected with 
the Church of the Sepulchre. It is 


16 ft. below the level of the Rotunda, 
y and measures 51 ft. by 43, being di- 
vided into nave and aisles by two 
columns on each side, supporting a 
groined roof. In the centre of the 
roof is a cupola, having a low tam- 
bour pierced by four windows, the 
only lights of the chapel. The archi- 
tecture is massive, rude, and “crypt- 


Church of the Sepulchre. 


165 


like; the columns are dwarf, with 
huge capitals of early Byzantine cha- 
racter; the pavement is broken and 
rugged, and the whole place damp 
and gloomy, being built on the site 
of an old cistern. The arrangements 
are those of a Greek church. At the 
eastern end of the northern aisle is 
an apse with an altar (23), dedicated 
to St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief. At 
the end of the nave is another altar 
(24), dedicated to St. Helena, and on 
its 8. side in a break of the wall 
stands a patriarchal chair of marble 
(25), said to be that in which Helena 
sat. while superintending the search 
for the true cross in the vault be- 
low. Near the eastern end of the 8, 
aisle is a staircase hewn in the rock, 
leading down by 12 steps to 


The Chapel of the Invention of the 
Cross.—This is an irregularly-shaped 
vault about 20 ft. across, wholly ex- 
cavated in the rock. Here were dug 
up, a8 tradition affirms, the three 
crosses, the crown of thorns, the nails, 
the inscription, &c., under the inspec- 
tion of the pious Helena, who sat in 
the chair overhead, superintending 
and encouraging this “seareh of faith.” 

In a recess on the 8S. side (28) an 
altar and crucifix now stand on the 
identical spot where the True Cross 
lay dishonoured and unknown for 
three centuries. This rude chapel is 
one of special sancity in the estima- 
tion of monks and pilgrims; and 
many of the latter may be heard to 
sob and groan as they enter—and 
what wonder! when their spiritual 
guides point to the dripping walls 
and roof to show them how the very 
rocks still weep in memory of the events 
that here occurred! The vault was 
evidently an old cistern ; perhaps con- 
nected with the great cistern of He- 
lena (described above § 47) which 
adjoins it on the N. The Chapel of 
the Invention of the Crose—appropri- 
ately named—belongs to the Latins, 
and that of Helena to the Armenians ; 
but the several sects are permitted to 
visit them in turn. They both 
directly under the Coptic conven*?”: 


2 be 
the centre of whose court Dration 


a 


166 


seen the cupola of the Chapel of He- 
lena. 


Sr on Cor A 
i in to the great aisle, we ) 
om our left, immediately on leaving 
the staircase, a small apee chapel (29), 
called the Chapel of the Mocking. 
Here beneath the altar is a ent 
of a column of gray marble, on which 
the Jews made our Saviour sit “ while 
they crowned Him with thorns, amote 
Him on the face after blindfolding 
Him, and said to Him in barbarous 
derision, ‘Prophesy who it is that 
amote thee.’” Saewulf is the first 
who mentions this tradition. 


Advancing up the aisle to the place 
where it joins the §S. transept, we 
observe on the left a flight of 18 
steps (30) leading up to the Chapel 
of Golgotha. Golgotha is a Hebrew 
word signifying “a skull;” and it 
was at a place called by this name 
the Saviour was crucified. The Latin 
synonyme is Calvaria, from whence 
is the English “Calvary.” It is never 
called a mount or hill in Scripture. 
There was a &i tradition, as 
early as the time of Origen, that the 
body of Adam was buried in Gol- 
gotha; but there is no evidence that 
the Golgotha referred to by Origen 
was the rock now included under that 
name within the Church of the Se- 
pulchre. The author of the ‘Jeru- 
salem Itinerary’ is the first who 
mentions the latter Golgotha; calling 
it a “little hill,” monticulus. Cyril, 
who was elected bishop of Jerusalem 
in a.p. 351, frequently speaks of it 
as enclosed within a building. The 
chapels of Golgotha stand on a rock 
elevated about 15 ft. above the floor 
of the aisle, and as they have cham- 
bers under them they are shown on 
a separate plan. , 


Ascending the steps above referred 
to, we enter a low vaulted chamber 
with a marble floor: this is the 

Chapel of the Elevation of the Cross, 
natd belongs to the Greeks. At the 
semi@rn end is a platform 10 ft. by 
aisle rmed about 18 in. above the 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Christian Antiquities, . 


floor; in its centre stands the altar, 
and under it a hole in the marble 
slab communicating with a similar 
one in the natural rock below. Here 
we are told the Saviour’s crogs was 
fixed (31). Near it on the rt. is an- 
other opening in the marble to lay 
bare the rent in the rock occasioned 
by the earthquake which occurred 
at the time of the Crucifixion. The 
holes for the crosses of the two thieves 
wed hfe te Seed bavi bee 
ief, it is a ving been 
on the FP nand of our Lord. Adjoining 
this chapel on the S. is the Latin 
Chapel of the Crucifixion, so called 
because it stands on the spot where 
Christ was nailed to the cross. This 
seems rather a clumsy tradition, and 
I suppose was got up to rival that of 
the Greeks, The Latin Chapel is in 
fact an upper chamber, not standing 
on the rock at all, but upon a crypt, 
now used as a vestry, and in no way 
venerated! Quaresimus suggests a 
solution of this anomaly. The ground 
beneath the chapel was removed by 
Helena and conveyed to Rome, so 
that the chapel still occupies the frue 
position tn space where the event it 
commemorates occurred! In the S. 


wall is a barred window, looking into e 


a small exterior chapel (formerly the 
porch) dedicated to Notre Dame des 
owleurs ; and marking the place, in 
of course, where the Virgin 
Mary stood during the crucifixion. 
In peeping through the window into 
this gay little chapel, we observe 
some fine marble shafts on each side, 
forming part of the old, deeply-re- 
cessed, Gothic door. 


At the W. end of the Latin chapel 
a flight of stairs leads down to the 
transept, terminating just within the 
great door. Descending by these, and 
turning sharp to the rt., we enter the 
Chapel of Adam—a low, crypt-like, 
gloomy, diminutive chamber, lying 
under the western end of the Chapel 
of the Elevation of the Cross. At the 
farther end, towards the E., is an 
apse, or niche, hewn in the rock. On 
passing the door we have on our left 
the spot where once stood the tomb 


Sect. I. 


| 
| 


oJ} ERUSALEM, - 


of the chivalrous Godfrey, the first 
Latin king of Jerusalem, It was 
(alas! it ts not now) a roof-shaped 
cone of fine porphyry, with vertical 
gable-ends and ornamental edges— 
supported on four dwarf twisted co- 
lumns, resting on a plinth of marble. 
On the sloping surface was the fol- 
lowing inscription :— 


Hic jacet inclytus 
Dux Godfridus de Bulion 
Qui totam istam Terram 
Acquisivit Cultui Christiano: 
Cujus Anima regnat cum Christo. Amen. 


The tomb of Baldwin, his brother and 
successor on the throne, stood oppo- 
site on the rt. hand of the door. Both 
were defaced by the fierce Chariz- 
mians in 1244; and subsequently by 
the fanatical Greeks, becausé they 
commemorated Latin princes. When 
the church was restored in 1810 they 
were wholly destroyed. These sites 
are in a kind of diminutive vestibule, 
—passing which we are shown the 
Tomb of Melchizedek! Advancing to 
the apse in the far end, we again see 
through a little grating, by the light 
of a glimmering lamp, the rent in the 
rock made by the earthquake at the 
time of the Crucifixion. 


Such is the Church of the Se- 
pulchre, with its eventful history, its 
thrilling associations, and its absurd 
traditions, all thrown together in 
hopeless confusion. 
the common centre of devotion, su- 


yerstition, and imposture. It is the 
] . pe | the Grock Church itself, including, it is 


centre, too, of all - 


“ that romance 
Of many-colour'd life which Fortune pours 
Hound the crusaders, till pn distant shores 
Their labours end; or they return to lie, 
The vow perform ’d, in cross-legg'd effigy, 
Devoutly stretch’d upon their chancel floors.” 


§ 51. THe Hory Fire, 


A description of the Church of the 
Sepulchre could hardly be considered 
complete without some account of the 


The Holy Fire. 


It seems to ber 


167 


scenes enacted at the time of the 
wondrous miracle (imposture ?) of the 
Holy Fire. On the Easter-eve of each 
returning year it is affirmed that 
a@ miraculous flame descends from 
heaven into the Holy Sepulchre, kin- 
dling all the lamps and candles there, 
as it did of yore Elijah’s sacrifice on 
Carmel. The Greek patriarch or his 
representative alone enters the tomb 
at the prescribed time; and the fire 
s00n appearing is given out to the 
expectant afid excited multitude 
through a hole in the northern wall. 
The origin of this extraordinary scene 
is involved in mystery. Eusebius 
tells a singular legend of the transub- 
stantiation of water into oil for the 
use of the lamps on Easter Eve in 
Jerusalem; but in the 9th centy. it 
began to be believed that an angel 
came “and lighted the lamps which 
hung over the sepulchre.” It is sin- 
gular, too, and worthy of notice, that 
at a few of the Muslem saints’ tombs 
& supernatural fire is said to blaze 
on every Friday, superseding all ne- 
cessity for lamps. 

“ Originally all the churches partook 
in the ceremony of the Holy Fire, but 
one by one-they have fallen away. The | 
Roman Catholics, after their expulsion 
from the ch. by the Greeks, denounced 
it as an imposture, and have never 
since resumed it. Next the grave 
Armenians deserted, or only with great 
reluctance acquiesced in, what they 
too regarded as a fraud. And lastly, 
unless they are greatly misrepre- 
sented, the enlightened members of 


said, no less a person than the late 
emperor Nicholas, would gladly dis- 
continue the ceremony, could they 
but venture on such a shock as this 
step would give to the devotion and 
faith of the thousands who yearly 
come from far and near, over land and 
sea, for this sole object.” 

For the benefit of such as may not 
have an opportunity of witnessing the 
scene, and also as a programme for 
the spectator, I shall here transcribe 
the graphic description given by Mr. 
Stanley. Those who wish to be 
present ought to make application 


168 


the day previous to the consul, who 
can generally secure a few places in 
the Latin gallery; and these places 
must be taken possession of at a very 
early hour on the morning of the 
eventful day, though the orgies are 
not over fill noon or after it. . 

“The Chapel of the Sepulchre rises 
from a dense mass of pilgrims, who 
sit or stand wedged round it; whilst 
round them, and between another 
equally dense mass, which goes round 
the walls of the ch. itwelf, a lane is 
formed by two lines, or rather two 
circles, of Turkish soldiers stationed 
to keep order. For the spectacle 
which is about to take place, nothing 
can be better suited than the form of 
the Rotunda, giving galleries above 
for the spectators, and an open space 
below for the pilgrims and their fes- 
tival. For the first 2 hrs. everything 
is tranquil. Nothing indicates what 
is coming, except that two or three 
pilgrims who have got close to the 
aperture keep their hands fixed in it 
with a clench never relaxed. It is 
about noon that this circular lane is 
suddenly broken through by a tangled 
group rushing violently round till 
they are caught by one of the Turkish 
soldiers. It seems to be the belief of 
the Arab Greeks, that, unless they 
run round the sepulchre a certain 
number of times, the fire will not 
come. Possibly, also, there is some 
strange reminiscence of the funeral 
games and races round the tomb of 
an ancient chief. Accordingly, the 
night before, and from this time for- 
ward for 2 hrs., a succession of gam- 
bols takes place, which an English- 
man can only compare to a mixture 
of prisoner's base, football, and leap- 
frog, round and round the Holy Se- 
pulchre, First, he sees these tangled 
masses of 20, 30, 50 men, starting in a 
run, catching hold of each other, 
. lifting one of themselves on their 
shoulders, sometimes on their heads, 
and rushing on with him till he leaps 
off, and some one else succeeds; 
some of them dressed in sheepskins, 
some almost naked, one usually pre- 
ceding the rest as a fugleman, clap- 
ping his hands, to which they respond 


Route 7.—Jerusalen—Christian Antiquities, Sect. IL 


in like manner, adding also wild 
howls, of which the chief burden is 
‘This is the tomb of Jesus Christ— 
God save the Sultan—Jesus Christ 


has redeemed us!’ What begins in 
the lesser groups soon grows in mag- 
nitude and extent, till at last the 


whole of the circle between the troops 
is continually occupied by a race, a 
whirl, a torrent of these wild figures, 
like the witches’ sabbath in ‘ Faust,’ 
wheeling round the sepulchre. Gra- 
dually the frenzy subsides or is 
checked, the course is cleared, and 
out of the Greek Church on the E. of 
the Rotunda a long procession with 
embroidered banners, supplying in 
their ritual the want of images, begins 
to defile round the Sepulchre. 

‘“‘From this moment the excitement, 
which has been before confined to the 
runners and dancers, becomes uni- 
versal. Hedged in by soldiers, the 
two huge masses of pilgrims still re- 
main in their places, all joining, how- 
ever, in a wild succession of yells, 
through which are caught from time 
to time, strangely, almost affectingly, 
mingled, the chants of the procession, 
the solemn chants of the Church of 
Basil and Chrysostom, mingled with 
the yells of savages. Thrice the pro- 
cession passes round; at the third 
time the two lines of Turkish soldiers 
join and fall in behind. One great 
movement sways the multitude from 
side to side. The crisis of the day is 
now approaching. The presence of 
the Turks is believed to prevent the 
descent of fire, and at this point it 
is that they are driven, or consent 
to be driven, out of the church. 
In a moment the confusion as of 
a battle and a victory pervades the 
ch. In every direction the i 
mob_ bursts in upon the troops, who 
pour out of the ch. at the S.E. corner. 
The procession is broken through, 
the banners stagger and waver. They 
stagger, and waver, and fall, amidst 
the flight of priests, bishops, and 
standard-bearers hither and thither 
before the tremendous rush. In one 
small but compact band the Bishop of 
Petra (who is on this occasion the 
Bishop of ‘the Fire,’ the representa- 


JERUSALEM. 


tive of the patriarch) is hurried to the 
Chapel of the Sepulchre, and the door 
is closed behind him. The whole ch. 
is now one heaving sea of heads. One 
vacant spot alone is left—a narrow 
lane from the aperture on the N. side 
of the chapel to the wall of the ch. 
By the aperture itself stands a priest 
to catch the fire; on each side of the 
lane hundreds of bare arms are 
stretched out like the branches of a 
leafless forest—like the branches of a 
forest quivering in some violent tem- 
“At last the moment comes. A 
bright flame as of burning wood ap- 
pears inside the hole—the light, as 
every educated Greek knows and ac- 
knowledges, kindled by the bishop 
within—the light, as every pilgrim 
believes, of the descent of God Him- 
self upon the Holy Tomb. Any dis- 
tinct feature or incident is lost in the 
universal whirl of excitement which 
envelops the ch. as slowly, gradually, 
the fire spreads from hand to hand, 
from taper to taper, through that vast 
multitude—till at last the whole edi- 
fice, from gallery to gallery and 
through the area below, is one wide 
blaze of thousands of burning candles. 
It is now that, according to some ac- 
founts, the bishop or patriarch is car- 
ried out of the chapel, in triumph, on 
the shoulders of the people, in a faint- 
ing state, ‘to give the impression that 
he is overcome by the glory of the 
Almighty, from whose immediate pre- 
sence he is believed to come.’ It is 
now that the great rush to escape 
from the rolling smoke and suffotating 
heat, and to carry the lighted tapers 
into the streets and houses of Jerusa- 
lem, through the one entrance to the 
ch., leads at times to the violent pres- 
sure which in 1834 cost the lives of 
hundreds. For a short time the pil- 
grim run to and fro, rubbing their 
aces and breasts against the fire to 
attest its supposed harmlessness. But 
the wild enthusiasm terminates from 
the moment that the fire is communi- 
cated ; and perhaps not the least ex- 
traordinary part of the spectacle is the 
rapid and total subsidence of a frenzy 
s0 intense—the contrast of the furious 
[Syria and Palestine. ] 


The Holy Fire. ~ 


169 


agitation of the morning with the 
profound repose of the evening, when 
the ch. is once again filled—through 
the area of the Rotunda, the chapels 
of Copt and Syrian, the subterranean 
Church of Helena, the great nave of 


-Constantine’s basilica, the stairs and 


platform of Calvary itself, with the 
many chambers above—every part, 
except the one chapel of the Latin 
Church, filled and overlaid by one mass 
of pilgrims, wrapt in deep sleep and 
waiting for the midnight service. 

“Such is the Greek Easter—the 
greatest moral argument against the 
identity of the spot which it professes 
to honour—stripped, indeed, of some 
of its most revolting features, yet still, 
considering the place, the time, and 
the intention of the professed miracle, 
probably the most offensive imposture 
to be found in the world.” 

The fostering of fanaticism, super- 
stition, and imposture is not the only 
evil result.of the Holy Fire. Scarcely 
& year passes in which some accident 
does not occur at the exhibition—an 
unfortunate woman is crushed to death, 
or an old man is trampled over by the 
crowd; or oftener still one or two are 
stabbed in the quarrels of rival sects. 
In the year 1834 a fearful tragedy 
occurred, a detailed account of which 
is given in Curzon’s Monasteries of the 
Levant. His description of his own 
escape and the conclusion of the hor- 
rid scene may not be uninteresting :— 

“ The guards outside, frightened at 
the rush from within, thought that the 
Christians wished to attack them, and 
the confusion soon grew into a battle. 
The soldiers with their bayonets killed 
numbers of fainting wretches, and the 
walls were spattered with blood and 
brains of men who had been felled, 
like oxen, with the butt-ends of the 
soldiers’ muskets. Every one struggled 
to defend himself, and in the mélée 
all who fell were immediately trampled 
to death by the rest. So desperate and 
savage did the fight become, that even 
the panic-struck and frightened pil- 
grims appeared at last to have been 
more intent upon the destruction of 
each other than desirous to save 
themselves. ~ 


z 


¥ 


170 
“For my part, as soon as I had per- 
ceived the danger I had cried out to 


my companions to turn back, which 
they had done; but I myself was car- 
ried on by the press till I came near 
the door, were all were fighting for 
their lives. Here, seeing certain de- 
struction before me, I made every 
endeavour to get back. An officer of 
the Pasha’s, equally alarmed with my- 
self, was also trying to return; he 
caught hold of my cloak, and pulled me 
down on the body of an old man who 
was breathing out his last sigh. As 


the officer was pressing me to the 


ground, we wrestled together among 
the dying and the dead with the 
energy of despair. I struggled with 
this man till I pulled him down, and 
happily got again upon my legs—(1 
afterwards found that he never rose 
again)—and scrambling over a pile of 
corpses, I made my way back into the 
body of the ch. . . . The dead were 
lying in heaps, even upon the Stone of 
Unction ; and I saw full 400 wretched 
people, dead and living, heaped pro- 
miscuously one upon another, in some 
places above 5 ft. high.” 


§ 52. Tue Hospitax or Sr. Jon. 


On the opposite side of the narrow 
street that runs eastward past the 
Church of the Sepulchre, and about 
30 yards beyond the court of the 
latter, there is a picturesque Gothic 
gateway. It is somewhat remarkable, 
too, in the style of its architecture, 
for, while the external fagade has a 
pointed arch, that of the deeply-re- 
cessed gate itself is round. The 
- upper part was once filled in with 
rich historical and emblematical sculp- 
tures in bas-relief : some of them still 
remain; and among them we notice 
the Lamb, the emblem of the noble 
order of St. John of Jerusalem, of 
whose stately palace this was the en- 
trance. But, alas! how fallen and 
degraded! It is now the cesspool of 
a neighbouring tannery, and appa- 
rently the public dunghill of the whole 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. I. 


quarter. Many an enthusiastic anti- 
uary has turned away from it in 
isgust ; but I recommend a hurried 
examination, even though it be found 
necessary to barricade the olfactory 
organ with a handkerchief. Picking 
our steps through the foul gateway, 
and fouler yard within, where nu- 
merous children may be seen at play, 
seemingly unconscious of the rank 
compound of villanous smells, we 
reach a staircase leading up to a little 
court surrounded by a cloister. On 
the 8. side are three large rooms, one 
of them apparently the shell of a 
chapel. On the opposite side within 
the cloisters are still one or two Go- 
thic windows, with their stone mul- 
lions and graceful tracery; but they 
are now almost hidden behind 
heaps of filth. Of the great church 
nothing but the apse remains, stand- 
ing near the foot of the stairs. The 
rest of the palace and the spacious 
hospital once filled that green field 
which now spreads round to the W. 
and N. It may soon be occupied 
with buildings again if the common 
report be true that the Sultan has 
given it a bakhshish to the French 
emperor. 

In the 11th centy. the merchants 
of Amalfi, now an obscure town on 
the coast of Italy near Naples, pur- 
chased permission-of the Muslem lords 
of Syria to establish near the Holy 
Sepulchre a place of refuge for pil- 
grims visiting Jerusalem. Two hos- 
pitals were founded—one for females, 
dedicated to the holy Mary Magda- 
ene; the other for males, dedicated 


St. John, the almsgiving pgtriarch 

of Alexandria. These fwo formed the 
radle of the celebrated order of St. 

John of Jerusalem. Godfrey, after 
the conquest of Jerusalem, was enter- 
tained by Gerard, a wealthy merchant 
of Amalfi, who had devoted himself 
and his property to the service of 
poor pilgrims. The devotion of this 
man induced many of the young no- 
bles who surrounded the king to 
enrol themselves among the Hospi- 
tallers. Godfrey and his successors 
on the throne endowed them with 
ample possessions both in Palestine 


JERUSALEM. 


and Europe. The order was gradually 
established, and at last, owing to the 
persuasion of their chief, adopted a 
religious profession, taking vows of 
poverty, chastity, and obedience ; and 
assumed a regular habit consisting of 
a black robe with a white cross on 
the left breast. The pope highly 
approved of the new order, exempted 
them from the payment of tithes, and 
declared them independent, so far as 
their mutual organization was con- 
cerned, of all ecclesiastical or civil 
power. Their wealth and influence 
increased so rapidly that they were 
soon able to found hospitals in most 
of the maritime cities of Europe, 
where pilgrims were entertained and 
forwarded on their journey. When 
the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem be- 
gan to feel the pressure of a host of 
infidel foes, the Knights of St. John 
resolved again to assume their arms. 
The body, therefore, changed its con- 
stitution, and was divided into three 
classes : the first, of noble birth, were 
destined to the military service; the 
second were priests and almoners; 
the third were servants. As their 
number increased, they were farther 
divided into seven languages, namely, 
Provence, Auvergne, France, Italy, 
Aragon, Germany, and England. 
The government was an oligarchy of 
which the Grand Master was chief. 
For a time the lives of the Knights 
of St. John were as spotless as their 
shields; but piety and humility soon 
gave way to the charms of wealth 
and power. Their valour, however, 
never suffered an eclipse—they were 
found in the van of every battle, and 
the rear of every retreat. When the 
Frank kingdom was annihilated, and 
Acre fell (a.p. 1291), these warrior 
knights fought to the last; and when 
the city was in flames a shattered 
remnant, covered with wounds, retired 
on board a vessel and sailed for Cy- 
prus. They subsequently established 
themselves at Rhodes, and erected 
those massive fortifications, still 
viewed by all Europeans with so 
much admiration. There the travel- 
ler who comes to this land by way 
of Stamboul or Smyrna may still see a 


Hospital of St. John, 


171 


noble old street—a rara avis in Turkey 
—lined with the palaces, and deco- 
rated by the armorial bearings, of the 
knights ; and -a few months ago there 
stood at the head of it an old church 
dedicated to their patron saint, its 
floor tesselated by many an inscribed 
stone bearing names immortalized in 
history—now, alas! it is a blackened 
heap of ruins. Driven from Rhodes’ 
by the overwhelming forces of Turkey, 
the knights settled at Malta; and 
what Englishman is not familiar with 
the proud cathedral, the stately pa- 
laces, and the vast fortifications they 
there founded? To him who has read 
the stirring history of the Knights of 
St. John, the crumbling ruin opposite 
the Church of the Sepulchre will not 
be the least interesting among the 
monuments of Jerusalem. 

We learn from Saewulf and others 
that this site was once occupied by 
a noble group of buildings, as indeed 
the remains still testify. Two churches 
are spoken of: one dedicated to the 
Virgin Mary, called de Latina be- 
cause the services were in that tongue ; 
this is doubtless the church whose 
apse is still standing. The other was 
dedicated to Mary Magdalene, called 
also St. Mary the Less. It was at- 
tached to a Benedictine nunnery, 
and stood on the opposite side of 
Palmer-street, near the Convent of 
the Copts. The site is occupied by 
a tannery; and if we cannot con- 
veniently see it, we at least have 
the benefit of smelling it as we pass 
along. There is considerable confu- 
sion in the account given by both 
ancient and modern writers of these 
two churches and their convents. 
Some say they were both dedicated 
to the Virgin, but both William of 
Tyre and Jacob de Vitry mention 
distinctly a convent or nunnery of 
St. Mary Magdalene, which I believe 
is the same called by others St. Mary 
the Less. (See Gesta Det per Francos, 
pp. 934, 1082.) 

The Hospital of St. John extended 
southward and westward over the 
green field; beneath which are arched 
vaults and passages still remaining. 
On a portion of the site opposite the 

I 2 


172 


court of the Church of the Sepulchre 
is the small Greek Convent of Geth- 
semane. Beside it stands a tall mi- 
naret, connected with which is an 
interesting tale of Muslem magna- 
nimity —all the more remarkable 
because of its rarity. As the story 
explains the somewhat anomalous 
position of the minaret, the traveller 
will probably wish to hear it. When 
Jerusalem capitulated to the Mus- 
lems under Omar, one of the terms 
was, that the Christians should retain 
their churches. After the khalif en- 
tered the city it so happened that 
he was conversing with the Patriarch 
in the Church of the Sepulchre when 
the stated hour of prayer came. Omar 
asked to be shown a place where he 
might perform his devotions. He was 
told to pray in the Church, but he 
refused, and selected a spot at some 
little distance from it. He afterwards 
told the astonished prelate his reasons 
for this strange act. “If I had prayed 
in any of these churches,” he said, 
“the Muslems would undoubtedly have 
seized upon it the moment I left your 
city on my way homeward; and not- 
withstanding all you might allege to 
the contrary, they would say, ‘This 
is where Omar prayed, and we will 
pray here too;’ and thus they would 
have turned you out of your church, 
contrary both to my intentions and 
your expectations. But because my 
praying even here may occasion diffi- 
culties and disturbances, I shall do 
what I can to prevent them.” So, call- 
ing for pen and paper, he wrote an ex- 
press command that Muslems should 
only pray on that spot one at a time. 
The present minaret is said to stand 
on the place where the khalif prayed, 
though it does not seem to have been 
built till about the middle of the 15th 
centy. In 1459 it was ruined by an 
earthquake and rebuilt six years 
afterwards. 

Mejr ed-Din informs us that Saladin 
took up his quarters in the deserted 
hospital of St. John, when superin- 
tending the repairs of the fortifica- 
tions to resist the threatened attack 
of the English forces under Richard 
Coeur de Lion. 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Christian Antiquities. 


§ 53. Tae CanacuLom. 


The Coenaculum has already been 
referred to in connexion with the 
Tomb of David (§ 48). It stands on 
the southern brow of Zion, without 
the walls, and its tall minaret is the 
first object the eye of the traveller 
rests on when approaching Jerusalem 
from the 8S. In the group of buildings 
over the vault said to contain the 
Tomb of David is a large upper-room, 
50 ft. long by 30 wide. At its E. end 
is a little niche in which the Christians 
are permitted at stated times to ce- 
lebrate mass; and on the 8. is a 
larger one, serving for the Mihrdb of 
the Muslems. The room is manifestly 
ancient, and may perhaps be the same 
(the site is unquestionably the same) 
referred to by Cyril Bishop of Jeru- 
ralem, in the middle of the 4th centy., 
as the ch. in which the Apostles were 
assembled on the day of Pentecost, 
when they received the gift of the 
Holy Spirit (Acts ii.). Epiphanius, 
toward the close of the same centy., 
states that this building, with a few 
others near it, escaped destruction 
when the city was desolated by Titus. 
Arculf visited it about the year 700, 
but it had received many new honours 
during the interval, for his amanuen- 
sis informe us that he (Arculf) “ saw 
on mount Zion a square ch., which 
included the site of our Lord’s Supper; 
the place where the Holy Ghost de- 
scended upon the Apostles; the mar- 
ble column to which our Lord was 
bound when he was scourged; the 
spot where the Virgin Mary died ; and 
the place of the Ma m of St. 
Stephen.”—A pretty fair catalogue 
of traditions to get a local habitation 
within the four walls of one small 
building; and I doubt whether there 
is another of a similar extent in all 
Palestine to match it. The tradition 
of the “Column of Scourging” was 
older than the days of Arculf, for in 
the Jerusalem Itinerary it is men- 
tioned in connexion with the house 


Sect. I. 


J) ERUSALEM. 


of Caiaphas on Zion; and Jerome de- 
scribes it as sustaining the portico of 
a ch., and still stained with the Sa- 
viour’s blood. Arculf is the first, 
however, who locates here the Vir- 
gin’s house, the scene of Stephen’s 
martyrdom, and the “upper room” 
where the Lord’s Supper was insti- 
tuted. From the last it derives the 
name by which it has been known for 
many centuries, the Cenaculum. The 
historians of the crusades regarded 
this, not as the site of Stephen's mar- 
tyrdom, but the place where he was 
buried. Saewulf in the 12th centy. 
thus refers to other events which had 
also been discovered in the interval 
to have occurred here: “Here the 
Apostles were concealed with closed 
doors when Jesus stood in the midst 
of them and said ‘ Peace be unto you;’ 
and He again appeared there when 
Thomas put his finger into His side 
and into the place of the nails. There 
He supped with His disciples before 
the passion, and washed their feet; 
and the marble is still preserved there 
on which He supped. There the re- 
lics of St. Stephen, Nicodemus, Ga- 
maliel, and Abido, were honourably 
deposited by St. John the Patriarch, 
atter they were found!” Verily the 
traditions of the Holy City are as 
changeable as the hues of the cha- 
meleon that crawis along its walls, 
and as prolific as the teeth of the 
fubled dragon. 

The group of buildings adjoining 
the Coenaculum was erected as a 
convent for the Franciscans by Sancia 
queen of Robert of Sicily; and this 
order had its chief seat here from 
A.D. 1313 to 1561. In 1547 Belon, 
the well-known French traveller, 
lodged in the convent, and states that 
the monks had in his day regained 
- possession of the Coenaculum, which 
had been seized by the Muslems. 
They were, however, finally expelled 
from the locality only 14 years later, 
under the following remarkable but 
characteristic circumstances. A Con- 
stantinople Jew of wealth and influ- 
ence visited Jerusalem, and begged 

ermission to pray at the tomb of 
avid. The Latins indignantly re- 


Cenaculum.— Pal. of Caiaphas. 


173 


fused. The Jew threatened revenge, 
and on his return to Constantinople 
rebuked the grand vizir for his in- 
difference to the tomb of one of the 
great Prophets of Islam, in permitting 
it to remain in the hands of the in- 
fidel Nazarenes. His representations, 
aided by bribes, had the desired 
effect; and the Franciscans were 
driven from their convent. They are 
still permitted to visit the Coenacu- 
lum at stated times; and here the 
Latin monks continue to practise the 
washing of pilgrims’ feet on Maundy 
Thursday, in commemoration of that 
incident in Scripture history, which 
they believe to have been enacted in 
this chamber. (John xiii. 5.) The 
site of the Virgin’s residence, where 
she is said to have spent the last 
years of her life, is now shown a little 
to the N. of the Coenaculum. 


§ 54. THE Patace or CarapnHas. 


Before leaving Zion we may pay a 
passing visit to another site, around 
which a little cluster of traditions 
has collected. Between the Ccena- 
culum and the Zion gate is a building 
surrounded by a very high wall, which 
has been dignified by the title of the 
Palace or Town House of the High- 
priest Caiaphas. It is first mentioned 
in connexion with Zion by writers of 
the 4th centy.; but it does not appear 
whether they refer to the house itself 
or only its site. Benjamin of Tudela 
says that in his day there was no 
building on Zion but one Christian 
church, which must have been the 
Coenaculum ; yet scarcely 2 centuries 
later a chapel stood on the site of the 
present house, the erection of which 
was ascribed to Helena! It appears 
to have been erected by the Arme- 
nians, in whose hands it has ever since 
remained. The curious will here be 
shown, under the altar of the church, 
the very stone that once closed our 
Lord’s sepulchre, which, we have al- 
ready seen, the Armenians are ac- 
cused of having obtained in no very 
honest way (§ 50). Here, too, is ex- 


174 


hibited the prison in which Christ 
was confined —there is another in the 
Church of the Sepulchre; the pre- 
cise t where Peter stood when he 
denied his Master; and even the 
stone on which the cock was roosting 
when he crew! The building is now 
a convent, and it forms the cemetery 
of the Armenian patriarchs. 

About 100 yards E. of the convent 
is a cave in the hill-side where Peter 
is’ said to have hid himself after he 
had denied his Master. 


§ 55. Tne SITE oF THE MARTYRDOM 
AND CHURCH OF ST, STEPHEN. 


I have already shown how some 
early writers connected the tomb of 
the first martyr with the Coonaculum ; 
and how Arculf even states that here 
was exhibited the scene of his mar- 
tyrdom. This is probably only a 
mistake on the part of the good bi- 
shop. Zion, it appears, was only a 
temporary resting-place for the bones 
of Stephen, as they were soon con- 
veyed to a fit shrine erected over 
the spot where he was stoned. I 
shall now give, for the entertainment 
and instruction of my reader, the 
earlier and the later traditions about 
the true site of the martyrdom, be- 
cause the subject is interesting in 
itself, and affords, besides, a good 
example of a not uncommon pheno- 
menon in this land—the migration of 
Holy Places. 

We learn nothing from Scripture 
as to the place where Stephen was 
stoned except that it was without the 
city. (Acts vii. 58.) No notice was 
taken, so far as appears from history, 
of the spot where he fell, or of the 
body of the martyr, till after the lapse 
of 34 centuries. Then, however, re- 
velation was made in a dream to a 
certain Lucian, priest of a village 
called Caphar-Gamala, that Stephen 
had been stoned before the north 
gate of Jerusalem; that his body 
had been left a day and a night ex- 
posed, but neither beast nor bird had 
touched it; that Gamaliel, Paul’s old 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— 


Christian Antiquities. Sect. I. 
master (Acts v. 34; xxii. 3), being at 
heart a Christian, caused it to be 
deposited in his own tomb at Caphar- 
Gamala, where it now lay, with the 
bodies of Nicodemus, Gamaliel him- 
self, and his son. This wondrous re- 
velation was thrice repeated ; and the 
good priest, being thus convinced of 
its truth, communicated the facts to 
the bishop of Jerusalem. The tomb 
was opened and the bodies disco- 
vered. On exposing the sarcophagus 
containing the relics of the martyr 
the earth quaked, a fragrant odour 
filled the air, and several sick persons 
were healed! The bones were con- 
veyed temporarily to Zion; the scene 
of the martyrdom was sought and 
found ; and a magnificent church was 
erected on the spot by the empress 
Eudocia, wife of Theodosius the 
younger, where the bones of Stephen 
were finally deposited. The church 
was dedicated in the year a.p. 460: 
and a convent was subsequently at- 
tached to it. .Such are the leading 
facts regarding the death and burial 
of Stephen as related by Lucian, and 
attested by Augustin and other writers 
of the 5th centy. 

The ch. we are informed stood on 
the N. side of the city, at the distance 
of a stadium (200 yds.) from the gate 
called St. Stephen's; which, we learn 
from Arculf and others, occupied the 
site of the Damascus gate. And at 
the distance of about 250 yds. from 
this gate, on the 1. of the N. road, may 
still be seen a levelled rocky area, ob- 
long in form, which probably marks 
the site of the ch. Few people will 
think it worth while to inquire whether 
the vision of Lucian was genuine, or 
whether the true site of the martyr- 
dom was known. It is enough for us 
that the story was universally believ- 
ed, and the shrine universally honour- 
ed by native Christians and foreign 
pilgrims for nearly 1000 yrs. Rudolph 
of Suchem is the last writer who 
refers to it, A.D. 1350; but in his day 
both ch. and convent were gone. Up 
to that time the Damascus gate was 
known among all Christian writers as 
the Gate of St. Stephen. 

It is a remarkable fact, however, 


JERUSALEM. 


that from the middle of the 15th 


ccnty. to the present time all writers: 


and travellers apply the name Sé. 
Stephen to the gate on the E. side of 
the city, and to it alone! During the 
intervening centy. — the 14th — the 
scene of the martyrdom had migrated 
from the N. to the E. It-is now 
pointed out on the rt. side of the path 
which winds down the steep bank 
from St. Stephen's Gate to the bridge 
over the Kidron ; where also has been 
discovered the exact spot on which 
Paul stood when guarding the clothes 
of those who committed the crime ! 


§ 56. CHURCHES OF ST. MARY AND 
St, ANNE. 


The Church of St. Mary, one of the 
most magnificent ever erected in the 
city, appears to have been projected, 
if not actually commenced, by the 
patriarch Elias, and was completed 
by the emperor Justinian in the 6th 
centy. I have already stated that it 
stood within the Haram, and is now 
represented by the mosk el-Aksa. A 
discription and history are given 
above in connexion with that mosk, 
§ 43. 


The Church of St. Anne, the Virgin’s 
mother, stands on the slope of the hill, 
amid heaps of rubbish and tottering 
houses, about 100 yds. N.W. of St. 
Stephen’s Gate. It was partly re- 
modelled by the Turks, and is so far a 
nondescript mass of tasteless masonry ; 
but there is enough left of the old 
Gothic fagade, and graceful lancet 
windows, to carry us back to crusad- 
ing. times. Saewulf is the first who 
mentions it (4.D. 1102). “From the 
temple of the Lord,” he writes, “ you go 
to the Church of St. Anne, the mother 
of the blessed Mary, where she lived 
with her husband, and was delivered 
of her daughter Mary.” William of 
Tyre speaks of it as the ‘“ House of 
Anna,” where 3 or 4 poor women had 
consecrated themselves to a holy life. 
It was soon afterwards inhabited by 
an abbess and Bencdictine nuns; 


Churches. a 


175 


and in it Baldwin I. compelled his 
Armenian wife to take the veil, at the 
same time richly endowing it. New 
Holy Places appear to have come to 
light witlfin its walls, and old ones 
became more definitely located, as 
ages rolled on: for we learn that in 
the 14th centy. not only was the very 
otto shown where the Virgin was 
orn, but under the ch. in a deep | 
vault was the tomb of Joachim her 
father. The bones of St. Anne had 
been laid there too, but the empress 
Helena removed them to Constanti- 
nople. There, also, in front of the ch., 
was a great tree which began to grow 
the very night the Virgin was born ! 
When the crusaders were driven out 
of Jerusalem by the Muslems, Sala- 
din converted the nunnery into a 
college, and made his secretary and 
biographer Bohadin its first principal. 
After lying desolate and ruinous for 
some 2 centuries, it was restored by 
the pasha in 1842; and it has lately 
been handed over by the Sultan as a 
bakhshish to the French emperor. 


§ 57. ToMB AND CHAPEL OF THE 
VIRGIN. 


_Every one who passes out of St. 
Stephen’s Gate, and descends the 
steep path to the Kidron, will have 
his attention arrested, as he crosses 
the bridge and approaches Gethse- 
mane, by the picturesque fagade of a 
low building, standing on the north 
side of a sunk court in the very bottom 
of the valley. This is the Chapel and 
traditional Tomb of the Virgin. Few 
structures around the Holy City can 
vie with it in its venerable aspect and 
romantic site. Grey and worn by the 
lapse of time; deeply set among the 
rocky roots of Olivet ; surrounded by 
patriarchal olive-trees—it claims at- 
tention independent of, even in spite 
of, tradition, Its history is compara- 
tively recent, being first mentioned by 
Arculf in the beginning of the 8th 
centy. It is true John of Damascus, 
writing a few years later, professes ta 


176 
give an extract from a letter of the 
5th centy. referring to it; but the 


authenticity of the document is more 
than doubtful. The early notices 
of this tomb derive additional interest 
from the fact that they tend to mark 
the period when the beautiful myth 
of the “ Assumption of the Virgin” 
was elaborated into a positive do 

of the churches of the East and West. 
Neither Arculf the French bishop, 
nor John the Damascus presbyter and 
afterwards saint, could have received 
the doctrine of the Assumption, as they 
speak distinctly of the Virgin's body. 
It is remarkable, too, that the tradi- 
tion of this tomb, and the doctrine of 
the Assumption, are alike opposed to 
a decree of the third General Council, 
held at Ephesus, a.pD. 341, in which it 
is asserted that the Blessed Virgin 
and the Apostle John were buried in 
that city, and in the very ch. in which 
the council was then assembled. But 
notwithstanding the decree of a gene- 
ral council, the statements of a bishop, 
and the affirmations of a saint, the 
churches of Rome and the East have 
for centuries received the doctrine of 
the Assumption, and honoured this 
spot as the scene of that event! 

After crossing the bridge toward 
Olivet, we have on the |. a short flight 
of steps, leading down into the paved 
court in front of the chapel. The 
facade is now before us, consisting of 
two pointed Gothic arches, one within 
the other; the outer resting on short 
pillars and culminating at the top of 
the building; the other similarly sup- 
ported, but more deeply recessed. 
Within the latter is a spacious door- 
way with a square architrave, and 
another arch over it. The whole 
facade is thus strange, meaningless, 
and yet picturesque. 

Immediately on entering the door, 
which is generally open early in the 
morning and on festivals, we descend 
a broad, straight staircase of some 
60 steps, to the gloomy chapel, which 
seems to be wholly excavated in the 
rock. On the rt. hand in descendin 
are shown the tombs of Joachim an 
Anna, the parents of the Virgin. We 
have already seen that both these 


Route 7.—Jerusalem— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. IT. 


rsonages had other tombs — the 
ormer beneath the Church of St. 
Anne, and the latter at Constanti- 
nople. But as a shrewd monk one 
day said to me, “ Why may not a man 
have two or three tombs as well as 
two or three houses?” On the 1. of 
the stairs is the. last resting-place of 
Joseph, the husband of Mary. At 
the extremity of the Grotto, on the 
eastern side, is a small dark chapel 
containing an altar, and the sacred 
tomb, now empty of course, where the 
Virgin was once laid. It is profusely 
decked with pictures and flowers, 
while from the vaulted roof depend 
numerous silver lamps and strings of 
ostrich-eggs. The chapel is now the 
joint property of the Greeks and Ar- 
menians. - 

About 100 paces from the chapel, 
and not far from the garden of Geth- 
semane, is the spot where, it is main- 
tained, the wonders of the Assumption 
took place; and at no great distance 
is a rock still bearing the mark of the 

irdle the Virgin let fall to convince 

t. Thomas, who, the monks inform 
us, was troubled with a fit of his old 
scepticism on this occasion. 


§ 58. GETHSEMANE, 


The greatest interest of the Kidron 
is connected with the closing scene of 
our Saviour'’s life in the Garden of 
Gethsemane. On the night of His 
betrayal, after a long conversation 
with his followers in that “upper 
room” in the city where the Supper 
was instituted, He went forth with 
them over the brook Kidron, to a 
garden where he ofttimes resorted 
with His disciples (John xviii. 1). 
Just beyond the bridge which crosses 
the dry bed of the “brook” below St. 
Stephen’s Gate, and between the 
paths that lead up the Mount of 
Olives, is a little square enclosure 
encompassed by a high white wall. 
This is the reputed Gethsemane. 
Admission is easily obtained, for 
@ consideration, from the old Latin 
monk who keeps it. Within are 8 


JERUSALEM. 


venerable olives, their decayed trunks 
supported by stones, and their sparse 
branches still flourishing. One would 
have wished that the site had not 
been selected so close to the branch- 
ing paths, a place which must always 
have been public; and that the spot 
where our Lord prayed had been 
further up the valley in a more retired 
situation, where there are trees of 
at least equal antiquity. However, 
there can be little harm in giving full 
play here to those feelings which 
Gethsemane is calculated to call 
forth, and we may read with new and 
thrilling interest those affecting pas- 
sages of Scripture giving the details 
of that wondrous drama: Matt. xxvi. 
30-56; Mark xiv. 26-52; Luke xxii. 
39-53; John xviii. 1-14. Here, or 
not far distant, the Son of God endured 
that “agony and bloody sweat” which 
was connected with the redemption of 
the world; here, in deep submission 
to the Father’s will, but in full con- 
sciousness of the fearful trial, He 
prayed, “O my Father, if this cup 
may not pass away from me except I 
drink it, Thy will be done!” Near 
this Judas betrayed him with a kiss, 
and the other disciples forsook him 
and fled; and up that winding path 
He was led, bound as a malefactor, to 
judgment. 

Unfortunately the same depraved 
taste which has so thickly studded 
Jerusalem with questionable holy 
places, has also robbed Gethsemane 
of its sweetest charms. The monk- 
cicerone, instead of leaving. the pil- 
-grim to solitude and contemplation in 
the simple garden where Jesus was 
wont to retire, hurries him off to the 
rocky bank where the apostles fell 
asleep when our Lord left them to 
pray, and points out the impressions 
of their bodies still remaining on the 
hard stone, though it must be con- 
fessed it requires an ,eye of faith to 
identify them. Then he leads him to 
the “Grotto of the Agony "—a cave of 
some depth, in which Jesus is said to 
have prayed. Wonderful is the monk- 
ish partiality for grottoes! “On the 
very spot of the Agony (says Geramb) 
is an altar, and above it a picture re- 


Gethsemane. 


177 


presenting our Lord supported by the 
angel who came to strengthen him. 
Here we also find the following in- 
scription :—‘ Hic factus est sudor ejus 
sicut guttse sanguinis decurrentis in 
terram.’” Next, the place where Ju- 
das betrayed his master with a kiss is 
pointed out; and the whole concludes 
by the reverend guide presenting a 
little flower, plucked from a trim bed, 
as a signal that the time has come for 
the bakhshish. 

The garden belongs to the Latins ; 
and the Greeks, enraged at the mono- 
poly, have actually got up and en- 
closed an opposition one of their own 
beside the Virgin’s tomb. They do 
not often exhibit it as yet to Franks, 
because, as I was told, they wish to 
wait a few years till the trees grow. 
One would have imagined that the 
very name of Gethsemane would have 
been sufficient to check every thought 
of deception, and to inspire every 
man, claiming the name of Christian, 
with love to God and good will to his 
fellows. 


§ 59. The Church of the Ascension 
has already been referred to in con- 
nexion with the Mount of Olives 
(§ 32). The tradition connecting this 
spot with the ascension of our Lord is 
one of the oldest Christians can boast 
of around the Holy City, and yet it is 
opposed to Scripture, where we read— 
“ And He led them out Aas FAR as TO 
BETHANY, and He lifted up his hands 
and blessed them. And it came to 
pass, while He blessed them, He was 
parted from them and carried up into 
heaven” (Luke xxiv. 50, 51). Euse- 
bius, writing 10 years or more before 
Helena’s visit to Jerusalem, tells us 
of the mulitudes of Christians who 
came to the city from all parts of the 
earth to see the fulfilment of prophecy 
in its desolations, and to pay their 
adorations on the summit of the 
Mount of Olives, where Jesus, “ having 
revealed to his disciples the mysteries 
concerning the end,” ascended into 
heaven. And in another place he 
alludes to a cave attached to this site, 
as the real spot where the Saviour 

13 


178 


initiated the apostles into the secret 
mysteries of their religion, and from 
which he ascended. (Euseb. Vit. 
Const. iii. 41. See also Demonst. 
Evang. vi. 18.) At present there is 
no cave visible within or beside the 
site of thechurch. Mr. Stanley writes 
that “the cave to which Eusebius re- 
fers must almost certainly be the 
sume as that sinyulur catucumb, a 
short distance below the third summit 
of Olivet, commonly called the Tombs 
of the Prophets.” But this is inad- 
missible, at least if we take Eusebius 
as our authority, unless we remove 
here also the traditional scene of the 
Ascension, the site of Helena’s church, 
and the very top of the mount itself. 
(Euseb. uf supra.) 

_. The church built by Helena has 
‘ long since disappeared, though it ap- 
pears to have been standing in Maun- 
deville’s day. The present chapel is 
modern—a small octagonal structure 
within a paved court,.connected with 
2 mosk, and under the guardianship of 
a derwish. In the chapel is still 
shown the rock imprinted with the 
Saviour’s footsteps—a simple natural 
cavity, bearing no more resemblance 
to a human foot than to anything else. 
Arculf is the first who mentions this 
geological vestige (a.p. 700); then, 
however, there were two impressions, 
but now there is only one. The story 
goes that the Muslems, envious, of 
course, that infidels should possess 
such a treasure, stole one of them, and 
removed it to the great mosk. This 
feat was nearly equal to that of the man 
who stole his neighbour’s keyhole. 

A little to the 8. of this building 
was once shown, and possibly is still, 
the place where an angel gave the 
Virgin three days’ warning before her 
death. Somewhat farther is the 
grotto of St. Pelagia, a famous cour- 
tesan of Antioch, who, being con- 
verted to Christianity, passed many of 
her days here in penance. Below 
this are the remains of an old chapel, 
where Jesus is said to have taught his 
disciples the Lord’s Prayer; and, 
descending still in the same direc- 
tion, we come to a kind of reservoir, 
which has been dignified by the name_ 


Route 7.—Jerusalen— Christian Antiquities. 


Sect. II. 


of “the place where the apostles 
composed the Creed!” 


§ 60. Via Dolorosa.— The narrow 
lane which zigzags through the city, 
from the governor's house to the 
Church of the Sepulchre, has, within 
the last few centuries, been called the 
Via Dolorosa ; and -into it have been 
carefully collected the scenes of all 
the events, historical and legendary, 
connected with the Crucifixion. One 
cannot help wondering how the good 
old monks could manifest such child- 
ish simplicity in their pious inven- 
tions. A schoolboy in England would - 
naturally ask how the present lane, 
with its sharp turns and numerous 
windings, happens so exactly to cor- 
respond with the ancient one; or how 
arches, and walls, and stairéases, and 
particular stones, and whole houses, 
could remain intact, and be identified, 
after the total destruction of the city 
by the Romans, and the lapse of so 
many centuries. And yet so it is. 
Not a word is heard of the Via Dole- 
rosa, and its eight stations, from either 
monk or priest, traveller or pilgrim, 
previous to the 14th centy. Still 
there is something touching, even im- 
pressive, in this gloomy street, with its 
arched passages, its patches of sun- 
shine and shade, and its -honoured 
stones, around which little groups of 
pilgrims are so often seen. There is 
something deeply interesting in it 
also to the artist and the historian; 
for here are the originals, if we may 
so call them, of some of the most ce 
lebrated works of European art, and 
here is the fountain-head of some of 
the most famous of European super- 
stitions. “No thoughtful traveller,” 
Mr. Stanley well remarks, “can see, 
without at least a passing emotion, the 
various points in the Via Dolorosa, 
which have been repeated again and 
again in pictures and in Calvaries, 
amidst the blaze of gorgeous colours, 
and on the sides of romantic hills in 
France and Italy; the spot where 
Veronica is said to have received the 
sacred cloth for which Lucca, Turin, 


and Rome contend; the threshold | 


where is believed to have stood the 


‘ 


£ © nei 


JERUSALEM. 


Scala Santa worn by the ceaseless toil 
of Roman pilgrims in front of St. 
John Lateran.” 

With these remarks in mind we 
shall walk along the Via Dolorosa, 
starting from the E. It commences— 
that is, the traditional part of it— 
with the palace of Pilate, now the go- 
vernor’s house or Serai. Here, on the 
1., are 2 old arches in the wall, now 
built up, where the Scala Santa, or 
staircase leading to the ‘Judgment 
Hall, stood until removed by Constan- 
tine to the Basilica of St. John La- 
teran. On the opposite side of the 


street is the Church of the Plagellation, 
so called from the tradition that on 
its site Christ was scourged. Others 
call it the “Chureh of the Crowning 
with Thorns;” and both names are 
probably equally applicable. <A few 
paces westward the street is spanned 
by the Hece Homo Arch, which a lively 
imagination might date back to the 
Roman age. Here Pilate is said to 
have brought forth our Lord and pre- 
sented Him to the people, saying, 
“Behold the Man!” We now de- 
scend an easy slope, and turn sharply 
to the 1. into the street coming from 
the Damsacus gate—passing on our 
way the spot where the Saviour, faint- 
ing under the cross, leaned against the 
wall of a house and left on it the 
impression of His shoulder; and then 
the spot where, meeting the Virgin, He 
said Salve Mater! In the bottom of 
the valley is pointed out the House of 
Dives, and a stone in front of it on 
which Lazarus sat. Turning another 
sherp corner to the rt., and ascending 
the hill, we have on the 1. the place of 
Christ’s second fall under the cross; 
and then the House of St. Veronica, 
from which that illustrious woman 
came forth and presented the Saviour 
with a handkerchief to wipe His bleed- 
ing brows. The ascent from hence to 
the Church of the Sepulchre is con- 
siderable, and the street has a strange 
picturesque aspect. The pavement is 
rugged, the walls on each side prison- 
like, pierced here and there with low 
door and grated window; while a suc- 
cession of archways shroud portions of 
it in gloom, even when the intervals 


Via Dolorosa.—Convenis.” 


179 


are lighted up by the bright sun of 
noonday. A more appropriate name 
could scarcely be invented, for this 
section at least, than the Via Dolorosa. 
Here, too, are other stations, including 
the spot, marked by the fragment of a 
column, where the soldiers compelled 
Simon to carry the cross; and the 
place where Christ said to the women 
who followed Him weeping—*“ Daugh- 
ters of Jerusalem, weep not for me.” 
Some will call these stations absurdi- 
ties, others may give them even a 
worse name; but such as desire to see 
the simple faith with which they are 
believed and reverenced by Latin pil- 
grims—men of education and en- 
lightenment—need only consult the 
work of the Abbé Geramb. 

Just at the western termination of 
the Via Dolorosa tradition places the 
Porta Judiciaria, the site of which is 
supposed to be marked by a single 
upright shaft at the angle of the street 
and the bazaar. I know not on what 
ground, historical or architectural, this 
column can be connected with a gate 
at all: the tradition, however, has 
probably equal claims to credit with 
the others along the street. . 


§ 61. CoNVENTs. 


The names of the several convents in 
and around the city have already been 
given in connexion with the Christian 
sects (§ 13-16); but I shall here refer 
more minutely to a few of the principal 
ones. 


The Greek Convent of Constantine 
stands on the W. side of the Church 
of the Sepulchre, with which an arched 
passage over Christian-street connects 
it. It isa large straggling building, 
presenting nothing of interest eithér 
ina historical or archeological point 
of view. It is the official residence of 
the Greek patriarch, and is inhabited 
by about 100 monks, of all grades. 
The library is unsually large and clean; 
it contains about 2000 printed volumes 
in various languages, and about 500 


180 Route 7.—Serusalen—Christian Antiquities. Sect. Il. 


Greek and Arabic MSS. on paper—all ! owners, as soon as they found them- 
theological works. There are, besides, selves in a condition to maintain it. 
about 100 Greek MSS. on vellum. | On this accoun® the Greek Church, 
One of the 8 MSS. of the Gospels | from their intercommunion with the 
which the library contains has the | Georgians, still maintain that they 
index and the beginning of each | have a claim upon the buildings. 
gospel written in geld. letters on pur-| The Church of St. James is, with 
ple vellum, and has also some curious | the exception of that of the Sepulchre, 
Hluminations. There is a manuscript | the largest in the city. In the rich- 
of the whole Bible—a large folio in ; ness of its decorations and sacred vest- 
excellent preservation. But its great- | ments it is unequalled ; but everything 
cst treasure is a copy of the Book of | is tawdry ‘and in the worst style of 
Job, in folio, written in large letters, { Oriental barbarism. One of the 
surrounded with scholia in a smaller | greatest treasures they boast of is the 
hand, and almost every page contains | chair of the apostle James, which ia 
one or more miniatures of Job and his | preserved in the ch. and duly ex- 
friends: its date is about the 12th | hibited to the faithful. 
centy. During my stay at Jerusalem in 
1854 I visited this convent at the in- 
The Latin Convent of St. Salvador | vitation of the Armenian patriarch, a 
stands on very high ground near the | man of dignified deportment and con- 
N.W. angle of the city. It formerly | siderable information. I was first 
belonged to the Georgians, but was | conducted to the presence of that dig- 
bought and enlarged by the Latins | nitary, whom I found in the new recep- 
about a.p. 1561, when they were driven | tion-room, the windows of which may 
out of their convent at the Coonacu-| be seen over the archway from the 
lum. The ch. is dedicated to St. John | street below. Itisa noble saloon for 
the Divine, and is frequented by such | Jerusalem, somewhat in the modern 
of the native inhabitants and foreign | Italian style. I was afterwards led 
residents as conform to the Latin ritual. | through the various courts and corri- 
The Casa Nuova is the hostelry of the | dors of the vast building, where ac- 
convent, in which pilgrims of all na-| commodations are found for nearly 
tions, without respect to faith, are per- | 3000 pilgrims. A seminary or college 
mitted to sojourn for a fortnight. They for the education of the clergy has 
are supplied with cells not always | lately been established in it. The 
untenanted, with tolerable bread and | course of instruction is to extend over 
wretched wine ; and for these accom- | seven years, and the students are after- 
modations travellers are required to | wards permitted to choose their own 
give as a-voluntary offering far more | field of labour. Their number is re- 
than would keep them at acomfortable | stricted to 20. There is alsoa 
hotel, if such a thing could be found. | printing-press in the convent. The 
gardens occupy the whole space be- 
The Armenian Convent is the largest | tween the building and the city wall 
in the city, and its buildings the most | on the W. They have no pretensions 
commodious and comfortable—it is, in | to beauty, order, or even high culti- 
fact, the most decidedly aristocratic | vation ; and it is no great compliment 
establishment in Syria. It formerly | to call them the best in the city. 
belonged to the Georgians, who 
founded it in the 11th centy.; the ch. The Syrian Convent of St. Mark is 
occupies the traditional site of St. | situated in a narrow street not far from 
James's martyrdom. The Georgians, | the English hospital, and is one of the 
being unable to meet the expenses of | oldest in Jerusalem. It is respected. 
the convent, and the taxes levied by | by all the Christian sects as the home 
the Turks, sold it to the Armenians | of St. Mark: and it has, as a matter of 
early in the 15th centy., on condition | course, a full complement of traditions 
of its being restored to its original | and relics. Among the latter are the 


JERUSALEM. 


font in which the blessed Virgin was 
baptized, and the door at which St. 
Peter knocked after the angel had 
delivered him from prison. (Acts xii. 
1-15.) When I visited it during the 
present year (1857) it was inhabited 
by a priest and deacon, whose whole 
flock amounted to three people. They 
were all—priest, deacon, and flock— 
from the village of Suded near Hums. 


The Convent of the Cross is the only 
other establishment of this kind de- 
serving of icular notice. It is 
situated in a shallow stony wady, about 
14 m. W. of the city. It was originally 
the property of the Georgians, and is 

said to have been founded in the 5th 
centy. by Tatian their king. It de- 
rives its name from the “ Holy Cross,”’ 
the wood of which is believed to have 
grown on the spot. Others, however, 
say that the name is applied to it, be- 
cause Heraclius the patriarch, on re- 
turning with the true cross from his 
captivity in Persia, first elevated that 
sacred relic at this spot on approach- 
ing Jerusalem. It is now the property 
of the Greeks. 

The convent is a large rectangular 
building with massive walls, and a low 
portal guarded by a heavy iron door. 
Such strength was, and still is, needed 
to defend the inmates from hostile 
Arabs who are always prowling about 
the half-desolate country, ready to 
pounce upon solitary wanderer, un- 
guarded caravan, or cpen convent. 
Only a few years ago some of these 
lawless wretches effected an entrance 
during the night, and murdered the 
superior in his bed. After lying long 
half-ruinous, and almost wholly de- 
serted, the convent has recently been 
thoroughly repaired by the Greeks, and 
many extensive additions made to it, so 
as to fit it foracomplete collegiate esta- 
blishment. Russian gold has done won- 
ders with the old walls and gloomy 
corridors; while it has built spacious 
halis, and chambers, and refectories, 
that would not disgrace an English 
university. The building is now one of 
the neatest and finest around the city. 
The old ch. is well worth a visit; it 
is about 70 ft. long, and is divided into 


Convents, 


181 


nave and aisles by 4 massive square 
piers supporting pointed arches and a 
groined roof. There is a small cupola 
over the altar-screen. The whole 
walls are covered with faded frescoes, 
and some beautiful pieces of mosaic 
pavement still remain beneath the 
dome. The altar-screen is curiously 
painted in compartments intended to 
illustrate the complete history of the 
wood of the cross, from the time it 
was planted by Abraham and Noah 
(!) till the Crucifixion. Behind this, 
in an apse, is the sanctum, in the 
centre of which, beneath the altar, is 
a little circular hole, bordered with 
silver, marking the very spot on which 
the tree of the cross grew. 

In the modern part of the building 
is a new chapel with some tolerable 
carving, in the altar-screen of which 
the Russian eagle forms the most con- 
spicuous subject. Indeed, the double 
head and grasping talons of that well- 
known bird meet one at every tum— 
not a wall, nor a turret, nor a hall 
where it does not spread out its pro- 
tecting wings. Were the gold of 
Russia always as usefully expended as 
it is here, people would have little to 
complain of. Forty boys and youn 
men are now boarded, lodged, an 
educated in this establishment; while 
at the same time no vows are imposed 
upon them, and no promises exacted 
with regard to the future. - They are 
at liberty to choose their own profes- 
sions. The course of instruction ex- 
tends over a period of seven years, 
and embraces the Arabic language, 
modern Greek, a little French and 
Italian, with arithmetic, geography, 
and drawing. There are 5 resident 
masters and a chaplain. The class- 
rooms, the dormitories, the refectory, 
and even the kitchen, are fitted up with 
a neatness, and kept with an order and 
cleanliness, that would rival any simi- 
lar establishment in Europe. And the 
very grounds round the convent, re- 
cently purchased, rough and stony 
though they are, are beginning to 
exhibit the marks of industry and 
civilization. 


ony, 


182 


§ 62. Books on JERUSALEM. 


After the Bible and Josephus, the 
atudent may consult Robinson's ‘ Bib- 
lical Researches,’ 2nd edit. ; Williams's 
‘Holy City,’ 2nd edit., contaming a 
vst mass Of undigestéd information 
on the history, topo hy, antiquities, 
and traditions ; Dr. Tobler’s. ‘ Gol- 
getha’ (1851), ‘ Die Siloah-quelle und 
der Oclberg’ (1852), ‘ Denkblatter aus 
Jerusalem’ (1853), and ‘T aphie 
ron Jerusalem’ (1854); rtlett’s 
‘ Walks about Jerusalem, and ‘ Jeru- 
silem Revisited, especially valuable 


Route 7.—Books on Jerusalem. 


Sect. I. 


for their beautiful engravings. Some 
curious and interesting remarks on 
the architecture may be seen in Fer- 
gusson’s ‘ Kesay on the Ancient Topo- 
graphy of Jerusalem.’ The best Arab 
work is Mejr ed-Din’s ‘ History of Je- 
rusalem,’ translated into French by 
Von Hammer in ‘Fundgruben des 
Orients.’ Mejr ed-Din wrote towards 
the close of the 15th centy. - Detailed 
measurements and descriptions of the 
Temple and its courts, according to the 
views of the Jewish rabbis, are given 
in the ‘ Middoth,’ a tract of the 
‘ Mishna ;' on this also may be con- 
sulted Reland's little work ‘De Locis 
Sacris.’ 


S. PALESTINE. , ( 183 ) 


SECTION III. 
SOUTHERN PALESTINE. 


PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 


1. Physical Geography.—2. Political Geography.—3. The Inhabitants.— 
- 4, Mode of Travel. 


ROUTES. 

ROUTE . PAGE | ROUTE PAGE 

8. Excursion to Bethany .._.. 186 | 13. Excursion along the Western 

The Mount of Olives ;—Flight of Da- Shore of the Dead Sea .. 234 
lori Triumphant entry of Our Tekoa ;— Masada; —Engedi. 

9, Excursion to Jericho, the 14. Jerusalem to Eleutheropolis 947 
Jordan, the Dead Sea, Mar “Valley of lab ¢ :—Sites of Azekah and . 
Saba, and Bethelem .. -- 190 Gath ; — Singular Caverns ; — Eg- 

Site of id ret Dead Gee i Tistorical lon ;—Lachish. 
of Bethlehem. eyes 15. Gaza to el-’Arish and Cairo.. 266 

10. Excursion to Anathoth, Mich- 16. Gaza to Ascalon, Ashdod, 
mash, Bethel, Beth-horon, '  Ekron, Lydda, and Jeru- 
and Mizpah.. . 212 salem or 8 . 267 

Site of Ai;—-Battle ‘of Gibeon. The Plain of Philistia. 

11. Excursion to Solomon’s Pools, 17. Hebron to Yafa_. 279 
Etham, Khureitan, and the Bethshemesh ;—the Home and Coun- 
Frank Mountain oe 227 3. J wy of Saron. var 983 

erusalem afa . 

12. Excursion to the Valley of Kirjath-jearim ;— Emmaus ;— Valley 
Roses, Philip’s _ Fountain, of Ajalon ;—Joppa. 
and Bittir .. . 232 


1. Physical Geography —The natural boundaries of Southern Palestine are 
deep and definite on the E. and W. The very name of the West (Jam) was 
to the Israelite of old “ the Sea.” On the E. is the Dead Sea, and that deep 
valley (‘Arabah) which extends N. and 8. from it. On the S. both plain and 
mountains melt away into the great desert of Tih (“ Wandering’). Along the 
western shore lies the broad plain of Philistia—one of the richest sections of 
Palestine, and perhaps scarcely surpassed by any country in the world. It is 
historically interesting, too, for it is the country of Goliath, and of the heredi- 
tary enemies of the Israelites; it is the scene of Samson’s struggles and 
tragic death; and it- contains the ruins of the five royal cities of the Philis- 
tines. On the E. of this undulating plain rise up gradually the mountains of 
Judea. Their features are not those of a regular mountain-chain like 
Lebanon ; but rather a vast cluster of rounded rocky hills, sloping down into 
dry tortuous watercourses. They are scantily clothed by grayish and brown 
shrubs, intermixed with aromatic plants and gay flowers; and they are broken 
by concentric rings of white rocks, and huge piles of white stones, which give 
them a desolate and forbidding aspect. Here and there we meet with dee 
picturesque glens where the winter-torrent beds are bordered with belts of 
olives, and the steep banks above glisten with the foliage of the prickly oak. 
Such are the western declivities and broad summits of the Judean hills; but 


184 Physical Geography.— Political Divisions. Sect. III. 


the eastern slopes are wilder, grander, and far more desolate. From the top 
of Olivet, or the Frank Mountain, the eye ranges over a wilderness of white 
broken hills, seamed with ravines winding away down to the deep chasm of 
the Dead Sea—without a tree, or a shrub, or a green grass tuft, to relieve the 
bleak monotony. 
_ A superficial observer from some western land of sunshine and showers may 
wonder at, and write of, the barrenness of Southern Palestine; and with semi- 
sceptical surprise ask, “Is this indeed that land of promise which flowed with 
milk and honey?” I would remind such an one of the power of a Syrian sun, 
of the character of an eastern clime, and of the effects of centuries of neglect 
and desolation. The destruction of the woods which once covered the moun- 
tains, and the loss of the vegetation consequent on the want of tillage, have 
unquestionably exposed the whole country to a greater degree of drought than 
in early times; and then again the utter neglect of the terraces that supported 
the soil on the hill-sides has given full play to the winter rains, leaving tracts 
of naked rock where belts of corn once flourished, and vines spread out their 
long branches. To see what the hills of Judea might be under proper care 
and culture, one has only to look at the western slopes of Lebanon. And 
there is another proof of the ancient fertility and great resources of the 
country which no accurate observer can overlook; and that is, the vast num- 
ber of ruined towns and villages which everywhere stud the landscape. In 
Judea we may now wander for miles and miles without seeing a vestige of 
present habitation, save the little goat-pen on the hill-side, and the groups of 
flocks round the fountains ; but there is scarcely a hill-top that is not crowned 
with ruins, and there is scarely a little fountain where fragments of walls and 
scattered heaps of stones do not indicate the sites of former dwellings. The 
light Saracenic arch, the stately Roman column, and the massive Jewish sub- 
struction, lead us up by a regular architectural chronology to the rude 
“cairns” of the mountain regions, and the rounded Tells of the plains—the 
vestiges of primitive Canaanitish cities. Above all other countries in the 
world this may be called the “land of ruins.” God’s Word is fulfilled—“ The 
| word of the Lord is against you: O Canaan, the land of the Philistines, I will 
even destroy thee, and there shall be no inhabitant.” (Zeph. ii. 5.) 


2. The Political Divisions of this section of Palestine have changed with its 
history. Originally the Amalekites, or Bedawy tribes, occupied the plain on 
the southern frontier (Num. xiii. 29; 1 Sam. xv. 1-17, and xxvii. 8). They 
were the descendants of Esau, deriving their name from his grandson Amalek 
(Gen. xxxvi. 12). They are now represented by the Tiya&hah Arabs, if not 
lineally, at least in character and mode of life. The Hittites, Abraham’s old 
friends, clustered round Hebron (Gen. xxiii.). The Amorites were their neigh- 
bours, dwelling amid the rocks of Engedi (Gen. xiv. 7, and 2 Chron. xx. 2), 
and afterwards spreading over the country on both sides of the Jordan (Deut. 
i. 4). The Jebusites were strongly established upon the hill of Zion (Jud. i. 
21). These three tribes were all descendants of Canaan. The Philistines, of 
Egyptian extraction, inhabited the plain of the sea-coast from Joppa to the 
borders of Egypt. 

When the “ Land of Promise” was divided by lot among the Israelites, the 
tribe of Dan got the plain of Philistia from Joppa on the N. nearly to Ascalon 
on the 8. Simeon’s territory extended from thence to the wilderness of Tth, 
reaching as far eastward as Beersheba; but these two tribes were never able 
fully to conquer their allotted provinces. On the E. of Simeon and Dan, 
securely located amid mountain fastnesses, was the powerful tribe of Judah : 
while Benjamin was settled in that section of the hill country extending from 
Jerusalem to Bethel, and from Bethhoron to the Jordan (Josh. xv.; xviii. 11- 
28; xix. 1-9, 40-48). When the kingdom of Israel was divided under 


S. PALestTIne. Inhabitants.— Mode of Travel. 185 


Rehoboam, Southern Palestine remained subject to the house of David; and 
in later times it became the province and toparchy of Judza. 


3. The inhabitants of Southern Palestine may be divided into two classes,— 
the Bedawin, or wandering tribes, who dwell in tents, and the Fellahin, who 
reside in villages. The principal tribes of the former are the Tiydhah, who 
hover along the southern frontier, encamping around the wells of Beersheba, 
and upon the banks of Wady esh-Sheri’ah; and often running up for pasture 
or plunder among the hills of Juda, or along the rich plain of Philistia. Next 
come the Jehdlin, who claim the country fram Beersheba to the Dead Sea, and 
as far N. as Engedi : the usual head-quarters of their famous sheikh is at or 
near Maon. The T’admirah are a larger tribe, and feed their flocks among 
the wild mountains and deep glens extending from Bethlehem and Tekoah to 
the shores of the Dead Sea. All these Bedawin are to some little extent 
cultivators of the soil, though they maintain the well-known antipathy of their 
race to settled habitations. Their flocks and herds constitute their chief means 
of support, with, of course, an occasional raid among their enemies. Their dress 
is simple and primitive—a gay Kefiyeh bound with ita fillet of hair, a flowing 
Abba, and a scanty under garment of coarse calico fastened round the waist 
by a broad leathern belt garnished with a range of cartridges in brass tubes ; 
add to this a long gun slung over the shoulder, a knife to match stuck in the 
belt, and a heavy-headed club in the hand, and you have a picture of the 

edawy of Southern Palestine. Their country can only be safely traversed 
with an escort of themselves. 

The Fellahin, or cultivators of the soil, are scarcely less wild and lawless 
than the Bedawin; but having permanent habitations, the government have a 
better chance of punishing any glaring violations of the law. They are a 
rough, athletic, and turbulent race— mostly armed with gun and dirk, and 
inclined to make significant allusion to this very prominent fact in their inces- 
sant demands for bakhshish. Their allegiance sits lightly on them, and their 
ideas of mewm and tuwm are wholly regulated by power or expediency. The 
traveller ought to treat them with cool dignity, alike without blustering and 
without fear. 

Generally speaking, the whole country W. of the road leading from Hebron 
by Jerusalem to Nabulus is safe and may be travelled without any escort ; 
though if one intends to pass through unfrequented places it may be as well 
to have a horseman (Kheidly) from the Governor to act both as guide and 
guard. To the E. of this road the Bedawin have their home in the wilderness 
of Judwa. The traveller, therefore, if he desire to traverse it to any extent, 
must journey under the guardianship of some responsible sheikh. Safety does 
not depend so much on the number as on the quality of the escort. In 
specifying the several routes, I shall state where a guard is necessary, and 
from whom it may or must be taken. 


4, Mode of Travel.—All the excursions around the Holy City, as well as the 
journeys through Palestine, must be made on horseback, or in a chair or palan- 
quin (Tuht as the Arabs call it) slung upon mules. The roads are mere tracks 
worn in rock or soil by the feet of animals, as tortuous as erratic mules and 
donkeys can make them, and extremely innocent either of repairs or engineering. 
Among the mountains they are always rough, generally rugged, and some- 
times even dangerous—now winding along a deer torrent-bed, now zigzagging 
up a steep hill-side, and now skirting a precipice on a narrow ledge of smooth, 
rock. The traveller will thus see the necessity of securing a strong, sure- 
footed, and easy-paced animal; for upon his steed will in a great measure 
depend the ease and comfort of his journey, and in some degree, too, the 
sufety of his limbs. It is as well not to leave these minor matters wholly to 


186 ' Route 8.— Excursion to Bethany. Sect. III. 
the dragoman, who is generally better at inventing an excuse than providing 
a smart horse or a tolerable saddle. ,.My advice is, Try the equipage, whatever 
it may be, before starting, and insist upon a change if it do not prove sound; 
and when the time for starting comes take special care that the same animals, 
saddles, bridles, &c., are forthcoming. 

The charge for horses is from 20 to 30 piastres a day, including their food 
and the whole expenses of those who attend them. The most convenient 
arrangement on the whole is to agree with a dragoman for the supply of 
every necessary—horses, baggage-mules, tents, food; everything in fact except 


wine. 


The usual terms for the past season, 1857, were, as stated above, 30s. 


a day; but for a party of three or four 25s. ought to be sufficient. 


ROUTE 8. 
EXCURSION TO BETHANY. 


Every one who can by any possi- 
bility walk 3 m. should make this ex- 
cursion on foot. Half the pleasure is 
lost if it be hurried over. Every step 
is “holy ground,” trodden by prophets 
and apostles, and One greater than 
them all. We thus often feel con- 
strained to sit down, and calmly con- 
template scenes unsurpassed on earth 
for sacred interest. 

Three paths lead from the city to 
Bethany. The first winds up the 
slight depression in the western side 
of Olivet, touches the northern end ‘of 
the village on the summit, and then 
winds ‘own the eastern declivity. 
The second branches off from the 
former above Gethsemane, skirts the 
southern side of the village, and joins 
the former again above Bethany. The 
third strikes to the right below Geth- 
semane, passes round the southarn 
shoulder of the hill, and is the main 
road to Jericho. We shall go by the 
first, and return by the third; for thus 
we get the best views of the scenery, 
and the most striking illustrations of 
Scripture narratives—we go out with 
David in his flight from Absalom, 
and return with the Saviour in his 
triumphal entry. 

Passing out of St. Stephen's Gate, 
we descend the winding path to the 
bottom of the Kidron, cross the bridge, 
and leaving the Tomb of the Virgin 
on the L., and Gethsemane on the rt., 
strike up the ancient road to the top 
of Olivet. The guide may probably 
point out some flat rocks beside “ the 


Garden,” now honoured and kissed by 
numerous pilgrims, because tradition 
tells them that here the three dis- 
ciples slept while their Master prayed. 
Farther up we observe steps and 
cuttings in the limestone rock, proving 
the antiquity of the path. Here we 
are unquestionably in the footsteps of 
David, who, when he fled from Ab- 
salom, “went over the brook Kédron, 
toward the way of the wilderness. ... 
And went up by the ascent of Olivet, 
and wept as he went up, and had his 
head covered; and he went barefoot; 
and all the people that was with him 
covered every man his head, and they 
went up, weeping as they went up.” 
(2 Sam. xv. 23, 30.) On reaching the 
summit, beside the mudern village, 
we must be near, perhaps upon, the 
very spot where the king had been 
wont to “ worship God,” and where he 
now met Hushai the Archite. (Id. xv. 
32.) As we sit here on some pro- 
jecting rock, with the city before us, 
and the Bible in our hands, we can 
see with the mind’s eye the weeping 
monarch, and his weeping train, 
meeting the old counsellor, “ with his 
coat rent, and earth upon his head, 
and persuading him to go back to the 
city to defeat the counsel of Ahitho- 
phel.” (Id. xv. 84.) 

Passing the summit, the wide pano- 
rama eastward suddenly opens up 
before us: first the eye catches the 
long, regular, massive wall of the 
Moab mountains; then the deep, 
mysterious valley of the Jordan, with 
patches of the Dead Sea, like molten 
ead, gleaming in its bottom; and 
lastly the ed white hills that 
shelve downward from our feet till 


S. PALESTINE. 


they drop suddenly into the valley far 
below. (For the view from the top of 
Olivet see Sect. III. § 82.) Here 
again we can almost mark the precise 
place—a few yards below the modern 
wely—where David, when “a little 
past the top of the hill,” met Ziba, 
the wily servant of Mephibosheth, 
“with a couple of asses saddled, and 
upon them two hundred loaves. of 
bread, and an hundred bunches of 
raisins, and an hundred of summer 
fruits, and a bottle of wine.” (Id. 
xvi. 1.) Going farther down the 
rugged slope among terraced fields, 
we cannot be far from Bahurim, 
from whence Shimei, a relative of 
Saul, “came forth, and cursed still as 
he came;” and threw stones and dust 
at the fallen monarch. (Id. xvi. 
5-8.) Here the “ way of the wilder- 
ness” continues straight down the 
mountain, but we turn to the rt. 
through terraced fields and fig- 
orchards, and soon join the more 
{frequented path which comes down 
from the 8S. side of the village. 
Passing now a low rocky ridge which 
screens Bethany from the top of Olivet, 
we have the little lonely mountain 
hamlet in a nook at our feet; and we 
ure suddenly reminded of a greater 
than King David, and of a greater 
event than any in the history of that 
monarch — the Saviour led out His 
disciples “as i" as to Bethany, and 
He lifted up His hands and blessed 
tiem. And it came to pass, while He 
blessed them, He was parted from 
them, and carried up into Heaven.” 
(Luke xxiv. 50, 51.) Here then, 
among the retired uplands imme- 
diately overhanging the village, far 
removed from the stir of the city, 
took place the last interview between 
Christ and His disciples. Here His 
fvet last touched the earth, ere the 
cloud received Him out of their sight. 
Here too His disciples heard those 
remarkable and cheering words of the 
ungels: “This same Jesus, which is 
taken up from you into heaven, shall so 
come in like manner as ye have seen 
Him go into heaven.” (Acts i. 11.) 


Bethany, now called el-'Aziriyeh ; 


Route 8.— Bethany. 


187 


from el-’Azir, the Arabic form of 
Lazarus, is a poor village of some 
20 houses, situated in a shallow wady 
on the eastern slope of Olivet, and 
surrounded by broken rocky ground, 
once carefully terraced, and still con- 
taining some few orchards of fig-trees. 
Its distance from Jerusalem is about 
14 m., corresponding pretty exactly 
to the 15 furlongs of the Evangelist 
John. (xi. 18.) The view from it is 
dreary and desolate, commanding the 
region through which the road to 
Jericho runs. The houses are of stone, 
massive and rude; evidently con- 
structed of old materials, among which 
we see the Jewish bevel. Over them 
on the S., on the top of a scarped rock, 
rises @ heavy fragment of ancient 
masonry, built of bevelled stones; but 
its original object cannot be deter 
mined—it looks more like a fort than 
a, house. 

‘This then is the little hamlet which 
derives an undying interest from 
having been made the home of our 
Saviour during his visits to Jerusalem, 
and from having been the scene of 
some of the most affecting incidents 
of His life. What Cupernaum was 
in Galilee, Bethany was in Judma. 
Here He was wont to retire in the 
quiet evening after each day of thank- 
less but unceasing toil in the city. 
(Matt. xxi. 17.) Here dwelt the sisters 
Mary and Martha, with Lazarus their 
brother. On the farther side of that 
decp valley, away among those distant 
blue mountains, Christ was abiding 
when the sisters sent to inform Him 
that Lazarus was sick. Down that 
long dreary descent they often looked 
with anxious gaze in expectation of 
His coming. On that old road, without 
the village, Martha met Him, with 
the despairing, almost reproachful 
words, “ Lord, if thou hadst been here, 
my brother had not died.” Here He 
raised Lazarus from his tomb, and 
presented him alive to his weeping 
sisters. (John xi. 1-46.) Here too 
was the house of Simon the leper, in 
which the grateful Mary anointed 
Jesus with precious ointment, and 
wiped His feet with her hair. (Matt. 
xxvi.6-9.) The precise sites of theso 


188 


events are, of course, pointed out— 
the house of Simon, that of Mary 
and Martha, and the tomb of Lazarus. 
The latter is a deep vault, partly ex- 
cavated in the rock, and partly lined 


Route 8.— Bethany. 
‘ streamed forth the crowds who had as- 


Sect. LIT. 


sembled there on the previous night, 
and who came testifying to the great 
event at the sepulchre of Lazarus. 


In going toward Jerusalem the road 


with masonry. The entrance is low, ' soon loses sight of Bethany. It is 
and opens on a long, winding, half- now a rough, but still broad and well- 
ruinous staircase, leading down to a;' defined mountain track, winding over 
small chamber; and from this a few loose rock and stones, and here and 
steps more lead down to another there deeply excavated; a steep de- 
smaller vault, in which the body of clivity below on the L; the sloping 


Lazarus is supposed to have lain. 
The situation of the tomb, in the 
centre of the village, scarcely | 
with the Gospel narrative, and the 

masonry of the interior has no appear- 

ance of antiquity. But the real tomb 

could not have been far distant, and 

in such a place as this few will think 

of traditional sites when the unvarying 

features of nature—the rocks, the 

glens, and the “everlasting hills ”— 

are before them. Some may inquire 

for the site of Bethphage ; but of it no 

trace has as yet been certainly dis- 

covered, It appears to me, from the 

way in which the two names are used 

in the Gospels, that they were pro- 

bably applied to different quarters of 
the same village—the one called Beth- 

phage, “ House of figs,” from the fig- 

orchards adjoining it; the other Be 

thany, “House of dates,” from its 

palm-trees. (Comp. Mark xi. 1; 

Luke xix. 29.) 

From Bethany the Saviour set out 
on the morning of His triumphal entry 
into Jerusalem; and we are now pre- 
pared to leave this little village, and 
trace His footsteps. There can be no 
question as to the route—on such an 
occasion none other would be taken 
but the main road round the southern 
shoulder of Olivet. Mr. Stanley’s de- 
scription of this wondrous event is so 
graphic that I here transcribe it :— 
“Two vast streams of people met that 
day. The one poured out from the 
city (John xii. 12); and as they came 
through the gardens whose clusters of 
palm-trees rose on the south-eastern 
corner of Olivet, they cut down the 
long branches, as was their wont at 
the Feast of Tabernacles, and moved 
upwards towards Bethany, with loud 
shouts of welcome. From Bethany 


| shoulder of Olivet above it on the rt. ; 


fig-trees below and above, ing out 
of the rocky soil. Along fre ‘Toad the 
multitudes threw down the branches 
which they cut as they went along, or 


read out a rude matting formed of 
the palm-branches they had already 
cut as they came out. The larger 


rtion—those perhaps who escorted 

im from Bethamy—unwrapped their 
loose cloaks from their shoulders, and 
stretched them along the rough path, 
to form a momen carpet as He 
approached (Matt. xxi. 8). The two 
streams met. Half of the vast mass, 
turning round, preceded; the other 
half followed (Mark xi. 9). Gradu- 
ally the long procession swept round 
the little valley that furrows the hill, 
and over the ridge on its western side, 
where first begins the descent of the 
Mount of Olives towards Jerusalem. 
At this point the first view is caught 
of the south-eastern (western) corner 
of the city. The temple and the more 
northern portions are hid by the slope 
of Olivet on the rt.; what is seen is 
only Mount Zion, now for the most 
part a rough field, crowned with the 
mosk of David and the angle of the 
western walls, but then covered with 
houses to its base, surmounted by the 
Castle of Herod, on the supposed site 
of the palace of David, from which 
that portion of Jerusalem, emphatic- 
ally the ‘City of David,’ derived its 
name. It was at this precise point, 
‘as he drew near, at the descent of 
the Mount of Olives’—(may it not 
have been from the sight thus opening 
upon them?)— that the shout of 
triumph burst forth from the multi- 
tude, ‘ Hosanna to the Son of David! 
Blessed is He that cometh in the name 
of the Lord’ (Matt. xxi. 9). There 


S. PALESTINE. 


was & pause as the shout rang through 
the long defile; and, as the Pharisees, 
who stood by in the crowd com- 
plained, He pointed to the stones 
which, strewn beneath their feet, 
would immediately cry out, if ‘ these 
were to hold their peace.’ 

“Again the procession advanced. 
The road descends a slight declivity, 
and the glimpse of the city is again 
withdrawn behind the intervening 
ridge of Olivet. A few moments, and 
the path mounts again; it climbs a 
rugged ascent, it reaches a ledge of 
smooth rock, and in an instant the 
whole city bursts into view. As now 
the dome of the mosk el-Aksa rises like 
a ghost from the earth before the tra- 
veller stands on the ledge, so then must 
have risen the Temple-tower; as now 
the vast enclosure of the Mussulman 
sanctuary, so then must have spread 
the Temple courts; as now the gray 
town on its broken hills, so then the 
magnificent city, with its background 
—long since vanished away—of gar- 
dens and suburbs on the western 
plateau behind. Immediately below 
was the valley of the Kidron, here 
seen in its greatest depths as it joins 
the valley of Hinnom, and thus giving 
full effect to the great peculiarity of 
Jerusalem, seen only on its eastern 
side—its situation as of a city rising 
out of a deep abyss. It is hardly pos- 
sible to doubt that this rise and turn 
of the road—this rocky ledge—was 
the exact point where the multitude 
paused again, and ‘ He, when He be- 
held the city, wept over it.’ ”’ 

We now descend the hill-side dia- 
gonally by the steep shelving path, 
having on the 1. a vast multitude of 
Jewish tombs paving the declivity ; 
and away beyond them, down in the 
bottom of the valley, the tapering 
point of Absalom’s pillar; and over 
against us the summit of Moriah 
crowned by the long massive wall of 
the Haram. Near the foot of the 
descent we skirt the wall of Gethse- 
mane, then cross the Kidron, and as- 
cend the steep path to St. Stephen’s 
Gate. 


There is just one other point in the 
account of our Lord’s triumphal entry 


Route 8.— Bethany. 


189 


which requires illustration. Before He 
had started, or when He was on the 
point of starting from Bethany, He said 
to two of His disciples, “Go into the 
village over against you, and straight- 
way ye shall find an ass tied, and a colt 
with her; loose them and bring them 
unto me. And if any man say aught 
unto you, ye shall say the Lord hath 
need of them.” (Matt. xxi. 2, 3.) 
Where was this village? Some would 
identify it with Abu Dis, a poor ham- 
let on a rocky height about 1 m. to 
the 8. of Bethany. But there is 
another old site nearly in the line of 
the Saviour’s route, which I think has 
a better claim than Abu Dis. About 
¢ m. from Bethany, on the road to 

erusalem, we come to the brow of a 
deep glen, which runs down from the 
very summit of Olivet into the Ki- 
dron; from this point we obtain 
our first glance at the top of Zion. 
The road here ‘turns to the rt., de- 
scends diagonally to the bottom of the 
glen, and then, turning to the 1, 
ascends again in the same way till it 
surmounts the ridge on the western 
side. Upon the Projecting int of 
this ridge, some 200 yds. below the 
road, are scarped rocks, cisterns, and 
old stones, marking the site of an 
ancient village. The situation an- 
swers well to the description given to 
the disciples, “the village over against 
you;” and being close to the road, 
the inhabitants would already have 
seen the multitudes flocking out from 
the city to meet Jesus, and the owner 
of the ass and colt would understand 
at once the disciples’ words, “ The 
Lord hath need of them.” (Matt. xxi. 
3.) 


190 
ROUTE 9. 
EXCURSION TO JERICHO, THE JORDAN, 


THE DEAD SEA, MAR SABA, AND 
BETHLEHEM, 


H. M. 
Jerusalem to Jericho .. .. 5 30 
The Jordan re fee |) 
The Dead Sea .. ... .. - +1 O 
Mar Saba .. rr: rs 
Bethlehem .. 8 0 
Jerusalem .. . 2 0 
Total 18 0 


This excursion will occupy 3 days, 
and the best way of arranging it, both 
for convenience and profit, is to en- 
camp the first night at Jericho, taking 
care to visit the objects of interest 
near it in the evening; start the 
second moming very early for the 
Jordan and Dead Sea, and spend the 
second night at Mar Saba. An early 
ride the third morning brings us to 
Bethlehem, and active people may 
even take in the Frank mountain 
without much extra labour, leaving 
still sufficient time to see the lions of 
Bethlehem before returning to Jeru- 
salem. The order may also be re- 
versed, preserving the same stages. 
Tents are, of course, required at Je- 
richo, but they may be sent back to 
the city from thence; or perhaps, for 
the sake of the beds and provender, it 
may be as well to forward them to the 
convent of Mar Saba. The traveller 
who intends to enter this desert con- 
vent will require to procure an order 
from the Greek patriarch, or his agent 
at Jerusalem, without which no one 
is admitted within the walls. Ladies 
will remember, too, that the sex is 
under a ban in this holy spot, and can 
on no pretence whatever gain ad- 
mission. 

To make this excursion an escort is 
absolutely necessary, as without it the 
adventurous traveller will unquestion- 
ably “fall among thieves” ere he 
reaches the Jordan; and will be likely 
to need the services of some “ good 
Samaritan.” A few years ago an ar- 
rangement was made by (I believe) 
the English consul with the sheikh of 


Route 9.—Excursion to Jericho, $c. 


Sect. ITT. 


Abu Dis, a small village near Bethany, 
to furnish an escort, and guarantee 
the safety of the traveller's person 
and property, at the rate of 100 pi- 
astres a-head. But lately the govern- 
ment have taken the matter in their 
own hands, engaging to furnish an 


escort, without any guarantee however, 


for half the above sum. This ar- 


0 ' rangement is by no means satisfactory. 


When the pasha undertakes the es- 
corting of travellers, he should be re- 
sponsible for all losses; and he ought 
to guard them at so much for each 
party instead of each person. When 
15 or 20 travellers go together, as is 
often the case, it is pure imposition to 
be obliged to pay 82. or 101. for the ser- 
vices of a couple of horsemen, who may 
or may not be able to protect them. 

All arrangements being made, and 
the escort already flourishing their 
old matchlocks, or long lances, we 
mount and follow them. Again we 
wind round Olivet, and, passing Be- 
thany, enter the “wilderness of Ju- 
dea.” The road soon becomes 
dreary enough, running among white 
desolate hills, and white rugged val- 
leys, without a tree or shrub, or even 
a green grass-tuft. It would be al- 
most insupportable were it not for the 
associations, and a certain spice of 
danger just sufficient to keep up the 
attention. Here and there the gleam 
of a matchlock catches the eye behind 
some projecting rock, or a tufted spear 
is seen winding suspiciously round the 
shoulder of a hill: but these are the 
only signs of present occupation; ex- 
cept, indeed, by some chance we fall 
in with a flock of goats. 

On leaving Bethany we cross a low 
rocky ridge, and then dive down into 
a bleak glen, at the bottom of which, 
a mile or so from the village, is the little 
fountain called ’Ain el-Haud—perhaps 
the Enshemesh of Josh. xv. 7—which 
gives its name to the valley. A Sara- 
cenic arch covers the stone trough 
into which the water flows, and a few 
ruins around perhaps mark the site of 
an old khan. Down this glen the 
road winds for an hour or more, and 
then, leaving it to the rt., passes 
through a broken country of chalky 


S. PALESTINE. 


hills till it reaches an extensive ruined 
caravansary, situated on the top of a 
bleak ridge. Some broken walls and 
fragments of arches remain standing ; 
but they are scarcely sufficient to 
afford us shade while we rest a few 
minutes to draw water from the deep 
well. This is considered the most 
dangerous part of the road, and some- 
where near it Sir Frederic Henniker 
was stripped, wounded, and left for 
dead, by the Bedawin in 1820. He 
was probably thinking of the parable 
of the Samaritan when the assassin 
stroke laid him low. I venture to 
state that no one will advance much 
beyond this place without at least 
feeling how admirably fitted the region 
‘is for deeds of violence and blood; 
especially if he gets a sight of some of 
the half-naked Arabs who are gene- 
rally found skulking amid the ruins, 
or perching on the rocks around. 

On passing the ruin we enter a re- 
gion still wilder than that we have 
left behind. Dr..Olin says of it that 
“the mountains seem to have been 
loosened from their foundations, and 
rent to pieces by some terrible convul- 
sion, and then left to be scathed by 
the burning rays of the sun.” They 
do indeed look as if fire had passed 
over them. The road, which exhibits 
here and there traces of an engineer- 
ing skill and a solid pavement that 
point back to Roman times, winds 
down a succession of shelving banks 
and little wadys, until it brings us out 
on the very brink of one of the most 
sublime ravines in Palestine— Wady 
el-Kelt. It is on the 1. of the path, 
and is occasionally separated from it 
by narrow ridges of flinty rock; but 
by riding over these we gain some 
splendid views. The glen is not less 
than 400 to 500 ft. deep, just wide 
enough below to give a passage to a 
little streamlet like a silver thread, 
and afford space for its narrow fringes 
of oleander. The sides are almost 
sheer precipices of naked rock, occa- 
sionally pierced by grottoes apparently 
inaccessible to anything except the 
eagles that now hover round them; 
and yet history tells us that all these 
uncomfortable dens were once occu- 


Route 9.— Plain of.the Jordan. 


191 


pied by hermits. One is shown where 
an anchorite is said to have lived, the 
cravings of whose castigated body 


-were satisfied with four raisins a-day ! 


A few ruins of chapels, like watch- 
towers, are seen along the rugged 
heights beyond. 

The great plain of the Jordan now 
opens up suddenly before the eye, 
with the green banks of the river 
sunk down in a kind of fissure in the 
middle of it, and the bright sea with 
its cliff-bound coast away on the rt. 
From the depths of the wild ravine on 
our |. issues a thread of verdure, gra- 
dually spreading out as it advances, 
until it mingles, at the distance of a 
mile or more from the base of the moun- 
tains, with the thickets that encom- 
pass the village of Riha. This ravine, 
now called e-Kelt, is supposed to be 
the “brook Cherith, that is before 
Jordan,’ where the prophet Elijah 
was fed by ravens while the famine 
raged in Palestine (1 Kings xvii. 1-7). 
It is unquestionably the Valley of 
Achor, in which the Israelites stoned 
Achan for theft (Josh. vii.); and 
which was on the northern border 
of Judah (id. xv. 7). The pass 
down which we have come is the 
“going up to Adummim,” mentioned 
by Joshua, in his description of the 
boundary, as lying on “ the south side 
of the river ”—that is the Cherith or 
Kelt. (Id.) Away considerably to the 
N. of Wady el-Kelt the vegetation 
and foliage stretch along the plain 
to the base of the mountains. They 
are nourished by two living foun- 
tains; “one now as always called Dik 


(1 Mac. xvi. 14, 15); the other and — 


larger, as well as more celebrated, 


now called the spring ‘of the Sultan,’ ‘ 


once ‘of Elisha,—which pour out, at 
the foot of the great limestone range, 
ris that trickle through glades of 
tangled forest shrub, which, but for 
their rank luxuriance and oriental 
vegetation, almost recall the scenery 
of an English park. It is these 
streams, with their accompanying rich- 
ness, that procured for Jericho, during 
the various stages of its existence, its 
long prosperity and grandeur.” 

The descent into the plain is rapid 


meee 


L 


192 


and rough, and would in spots be 
dangerous, were it not for the stone 
fences that have in places been built 
along the brink of the cliff. Here as 
elsewhere on this dreary road one is 
continually reminded of our [ord’s 
beautiful parable of the “good Samari- 
tan” (Luke x. 30-37), every particular 
of which is adapted to the scene, and 
even to the circumstances, in our own 
day. The “ going down ” is descriptive 
of the physical features; the falling 
among thieves, and getting “ stripped ”’ 
and “ wounded,” is just what one might 
expect, and not a few experience, from 
the Bedawin now; the “chance” 
which brought three stray travellers 
past the spot shows that the road was 
solitary then as it is still; and the 
way-side inn may have occupied the 
site of the ruined khan on the moun- 
tain-side. 

The heat is great, and the reflection 
from the white cliffs and white soil 
makes it greater, as we descend 
through the wilderness of Judma. 
But on reaching the plain the air is 
like the blast of a furnace; and we 
are painfully reminded that we are 
1800 ft. and more below the level of 
the sea. Though as yet early in 
spring, the grass and weeds are crisp 
and scorched, and crackle beneath 
our horses’ feet; while the quivering 
haze that looms over the burning 
plain gives a dreamy indistinctness to 
the trees and verdure in the distance. 
The path to Riha, where we are to 
pitch our tents for the night, follows 
the direction of Wady el-Kelt, crossing 
over to the N. side, and passing two 
aqueducts with pointed arches—the 
first coming from "Ain Dik, and the 
second from ‘Ain es-Sultan. The 
modern village is about 24 m. from 
the base of the mountains. Before 
proceeding to it, however, we shall 
explore | 


The site of ancient JERIcHo.— About 
m. from the foot of the pass, a short 
istance S. of the road to Riha, is 
an immense reservoir, 657 ft. long, by 
490 wide; and around it, especially on 
the western side, are extensive ruins, 
consisting of Jow mounds of rubbish, 


Route 9.—Site of Ancient Jericho. 


Sect. ITI. 


and foundations of buildings. Turning 
northward we perceive similar remains 
extending at intervals to the banks 
of the Kelt, and even along its N. 
side. Fording the little stream, and 
advancing still northwards, we enter 
in some 15 min. a cultivated section of 
the plain, interspersed with clumps of 
the thorny nubk and other bushes. 
Riding 15 min. more through luxuriant 
corn-fields, we reach the fine fountain 
of ’Ain es-Sulian, bursting forth from 
the base of a high mound. The water 
is slighly tepid, though sweet; it was 
once received into a large semicircular 
reservoir, from whence it was conveyed 
in ducts over the adjoining plain. The 
principal stream now runs 8.E. to 

Riha. The mounds, as well as the 
whole section of the plain around them, 

are covered with the débris of former 

buildings, fragments of pottery, and 

heaps of rough stones, now almost 

hidden by the rank vegetation. There 

cannot be a doubt that this is the 

fountain whose waters were healed by . 
the prophet Elisha, and the _ sur- 

rounding ruins are, therefore, those of 
ancient Jericho. (2 Kings ii. 19-22.) 

From the Jerusalem Itinerary we learn 

that the Jericho of the 4th centy. was 

situated at the base of the mountain 

range, 14m. (Roman) from the foun- 

tain; and that the more ancient city 

had stood by the fountain itself. This 

corresponds exactly with what we 

have seen. The ruins on the banks 

of the Kelt mark the site of the Jericho 

of Herod and the New Testament; 

while those here around the fountain 

are the only remnants of the Jericho 

of the prophets. 

Ascending the mound over the foun- 
tain, and seating ourselves on one of 
the old stones, we are prepared to 
glance at Jericho’s eventful history, 
and recall its thrilling associations. 
We have before us the great plain on 
which the weary Israelites looked 
down, after their wilderness journey, 
from the brow of yonder mountain 
ridge away on the E. (Num. xxxiii. 
47,48.) We have at our feet the only 
remains of the city to which Joshua 
sent the spies from the plains of Moab, 
on the other side of the Jordan; and 


S. PALESTINE. 


there behind us is the mountain where, 
on the advice of Rahab, they hid them- 
selves three days, to escape pursuit. 
(Josh. ii.) Around this city too, after 
the spies returned, the Israelites 
marched mysteriously during seven 
days; and on the seventh day, after 
the seventh circuit, “the priests blew 
with thé trumpets. . . And fhe people 
shouted with a t shout,” “the 
wall fell down fiat, so that the people 
went up into the city ... and took 
the city.” (Josh. vi.) Jericho was 
then wholly destroyed, and a singu 
curse pronounced on whoever should 
rebuild it—* Cursed be the man before 
the Lord that riseth up and buildeth 
this city Jericho; he shall lay the 
foundation thereof in his first-born, 
and in his youngest son shall he set 
up the gates of it.” (Id. vi. 26.) And 
after an interval of some five centuries 
it was rebuilt, and the curse executed— 
“In his (Ahab’s) days did Hiel the 
Bethelite build Jericho; he laid the 
foundation thereof in Abiram his first- 
born, and set up the gates thereof in 
his youngest son Segub.” (1 Kings xvi. 


34.) A school of prophets gathered 
round the t almost immediately. 
Elijah and Elisha came down to it 


from Bethel—an easy day's journey— 
by a path through those wild moun- 
tains on the N.W. From Jericho the 
two went on, over the plain, to the 
banks of the Jordan; the “sons of 
the prophets” followed them in the 
distance, and at le took their 
stand “in sight afar off ’”’—probably on 
one of the upper terraces of the rt. 
bank—to see the departure of their 
great master. And yonder, on the 
plain beyond the river, “Elijah went 
up by a whirlwind into heaven.” But 
his mantle fell on Elisha, who on his 
return divided the waters of the river, 
healed the fountain that gushes out 
from the base of the mound at our 
feet, and went up the mountain pass 
to Bethel, where in a forest, now gone, 
lurked the “ two she-bears” that “ tare 
the forty and two” wicked children. 
(2 Kings ii.) 

After the captivity the inhabitants 
of Jericho returned from Babylon, but 
little is known of the city until the 


[Syria and Palestine.) 


Route 9.—Mountain of Quarantania. 


193 


time when its palm-groves and balsam- 
gardens were given by Antony to 
Cleopatra. From her Herod the Great 
bought them, made this one of his royal 
cities, and adorned it with a hippo- 
drome and many stately buildings; 
and here, too, that monster of iniquity 
died. The site of this new city was, 
as we have seen, 14 m. to the 8., on 
the banks of the Kelt. It was new 
Jericho our Lord visited on his way to 
Jerusalem—lodging with Zaccheus, 
who had climbed the syeamore-(ree 


lar | to see Him; and healing the poor 


blind man. (Luke xviii. 35-43, and 
xix. I-10.) Its subsequent history is 


soon told. It became the head of a 
toparchy under the Romans, but was 
deserted soon after the Mohammedan 
conquest. 


The mountain of Quarantania is a 
fine object from this point, rising 
abruptly from the verdant plain, white 
and naked ; its summit crowned by a 
little chapel, and its ragged side dotted 
with the dark openings of numerous 
eaves and grottoes, all tenanted when 
hermits were fashionable. Milton's 
noble lines would almost seem to have 
been penned on the spot— 


“Tt was a mountain at whose verdant feet 
A spacious platn, outstretched ig circuit wide, 
Lay pleasant ; from his side twe Pivers flowed, 
The one winding, the other straight, and left 
between 
Fair champaign with less rivers intervened, 
Then meeting joined their tribute to the sea; 
Fertile of corn the glebe, of oil, and wine; 
With herds the pastures thronged, with flocks 
e hills; 
Huge cities and high-towered, that well might 


seem 
The seats of mightiest monarchs, and so large 
The prospect was, that here and there was 


room 

For barren desert, fountainless and dry. 

To this high mountain, too, the tempter 
brought . 

Our Saviour, and new train of words began.” 


Should time and inclination permit, 
the traveller may go as far as Ain 
Dak, the other great fountain to which 
this plain owes much of its verdure. 
Tt is an hour distant to the N.W.; 
andethe road to it skirts the base of 
Quarantania. At 10 min. are sugar- 
mills, now deserted, on the declivit 
of a low bare ridge that runs N. by BH, 
. a K 


<r 


194 Route 9.—Jericho to Bethel. — Riha. 


from the mountain. At5 min. more 
we reach the top of this ridge, and ob- 
serve the aqueduct coming along the 
foot of the mountain from 'Ain Dak, 
originally constructed to supply the 
mills and irrigate the plain. e have 
now before us a table-land filling up 
the recess in the mountain range N. 
of Quarantania— part of it verdant, 
being watered by a fountain away in 
the distance N. by W., called ’Ain 
el-’Aujeh, beside which we observe a 
conical mound with ruins near it on 
the plain. About 5 m. farther N. is 
the site of Phasaélus, a city built by 
Herod the Great in the Aulon or Ghor 
N. of Jericho; and the name is atill 
preserved in ‘Ain el-Fuséil, a small 
fountain in a wady of the same name. 
Away in the plain to the eastward 
we can see another long aqueduct, 
which probably conveyed water from 
el-’Aujeh. 

About 45 min. more along the base 
of the mountain, in the line of the 
aqueduct, brings us to the group of 
fountains called Duk, bursting out 
on the southern bank of Wady en- 
Nawdimeh. Here are 2 copious 
springs and several smaller ones. 
Their natural channel is the wady; 
but the waters of the highest and 
largest, flowing from beneath a large 
dém-tree, are conveyed by an aque- 
duct to the old sugar-mills. Just above 
the fountains are a few traces of 
heavy foundations which in all pro- 
bability mark the site of the ancient 
Castle of Doch, in which Simon 
Maccabesus was treacherously mur- 
dered by his son Ptolemy (1 Mac. xvi. 
14, 15). Dk is also mentioned in 
the histories of the Crusades as a 
castle of the Knights Templars be- 
tween Jericho and Bethel. 


A road from Jericho to Bethel passes 
this fountain and ascends the moun- 
tains in the line of Wady Nawa’imeh ; 
the distance is about 6 hrs., and the 
ascent steep and difficult. The easi- 
est, and evidently the ancient road 
between these 2 cities, winds up the 
pass between Quarantania and Wady 
Kelt, and then runs through a dreary 
wilderness, It is quite practicable 


x 


Sect. ITI. | 


for baggage-animals ; and the distance _ 
is about the same as from Jericho 
to Jerusalem. It was doubtless by 
this latter route the Israelites “ went 
up ” to besiege Ai (Josh. viii.), which 
lay a little to the E. of Bethel (Rte. 
10); and it was this route, too, which 
Samuel took from Gilgal to Gibeah, 
to aid Saul against the Philistines 
(1 Sam. xiii. 15); by it Elijah and 
Elisha went down from Bethel to 
Jericho, as already stated. 

Returning again to'’Ain es-Sultan, 
or “the Fountain of Elisha” as it is 
sometimes called, we proceed S.E. to 
our encampment at Riha, about 35 
min. distant. The path leads through 
fine fields of grain, with clumps and 
hedges of nubk (or dém—the lote- 
tree, zizyphus lotus of botanists) among 
them; and some distance on the L 
is a large grove, or rather forest, of 
the same tree. Foundations and heaps 
of ruins are here and there met with 
along the path ; and about 15 min. from 
the village we cross a paved Roman 
road, which we can trace over the 
plain towards the foot of the moun- 
tains at Wady Kelt. It was probably 
connected with the ancient roads to 
Jerusalem and Bethel. 


Riha, or Eriha as it is sometimes 
written, is the only modern representa- 
tive of either the city or name of Jeri- 
cho; and a more filthy and miserable 
village could not be found in all Pa- 
lestine. Its few inhabitants, too, are 
not only poor, but profligate, retaining 
some of the vices for which the cities 
of Sodom were rendered notorious 
4000 years ago. The houses are 
formed of rude stone walls, built up 
loosely of ancient materials; their 
flat roofs covered with brush and gra- 
vel, and their little yards—dens of 
filth and fleas—enclosed by hedges 
of the dry thorny boughs of the nubk. 
A similar but stronger fence sur 
rounds the whole village, forming a rude 
barrier against the raids of the Be 
dawin. The place and its people bear 
more resemblance to the valley of the 
Nile than Palestine. Beside the vil- 
lage stands the tower, dignified by the 
title of “the House of Zaccheus.” It 


S. PALESTINE, Routé 9.— Valley of the Jordan. 
fis a half-ruinous square building, 
; about 30 ft. on each side and 40 high, 
: now occupied by the Turkish garrison, 
\ consisting of a subaltern with the title 
! of Agha, and some half-dozen irregu- 
\ Jars. The view from the top is com- 
Imanding, and well repays a_ visit, 
ithough it involves the penalty of 
- drinking coffee with the seedy go- 


195 


into a vast forest of thorny shrubs, in- 
termingled with willows and overgrown 
weeds. On the W. side of Rtha is an 
impenetrable thicket of nubk. Far- 
ther from the watercourses the trees 
and bushes are more thinly scattered, 
standing singly or in clumps, and re- 
sembling in places an English orchard. 
Seen from a distance on the plain, the 


vernor. 


The Valley of the Jordan is here 
seen in its broadest part. Its general 
aspect is that of a long plain, shut in 
on the E. and W. by bold, barren 
ridges, and having down its centre, 
from N. to §., a deep, dark, winding 
glen or crevasse. Northward the 
ridges gradually approach each other 
until they seem to meet on the distant 
horizon; southward the Dead Sea is 
like a continuation of the plain, the 
ranges along each side extending 
away in a series of bold promontories 
which dip into the bosom of the lake. 
The mountain of Quarantania projects 
slightly from the line of the western 
ridge, having curved recesses on the 
N. and 8. The elevation of this 
ridge above the plain varies from 1000 
to 2000 ft. The eastern ridge is 
lower and less precipitous where it 
borders the plain, but farther back it 
rises to a much greater elevation. 
The total breadth of the valley is 
about 10 m.; at each side are gentle 
undulations, but the middle is per- 
fectly flat, with the exception, of 
course, of the narrow glen through 
which the Jordan flows. This vast 
plain, with its rich soil and abundant 
waters, is now almost wholly desert ; 
mostly covered with a thin, smooth, 
nitrous crust, through which the feet 
sink as in ashes. The section round 
Rtha is totally different, affording a 
fine example of how water can con- 
vert a wilderness into a paradise. 
The 2 fountains of Dak and es-Sultan 
on the N.W., and another at Hajla on 
the S.E., aided by the “ brook Cherith,” 
afford large supplies of water, which, 
being widely distributed by ancient 
aqueducts, cover the plain with the 
richest verdure; but long neglect and 
a tropical sun have changed the whole 


whole: has the appearance of an un- 
broken forest, and bears some remote 
resemblance to the far-famed Ghitah 
of Damascus. 

Such is the present aspect of the 
plain of Jericho, celebrated for its fer- 
tility in every age. Josephus calls it 
the most fertile tract of Judwa—a 
“divine region ;” and in speaking of 
the fountain of Elisha, he says it wa- 
tered a country 70 stadia long by 20 
broad, covered with luxuriant gardens 
and palm-groves. In Scripture Jericho 
is called the “City of Palm-trees” 
(Deut. xxxiv. 3); and Josephus repre- 
sents these trees as of unusual size 
and beauty, growing even along the 
banks of the Jordan. Now not a palm 
is to be seen; for even that solitary 
tree, for many years mentioned by 
travellers as the “last of the forest” 
—the only remnant of Jericho's an- 
cient pride—has disappeared. The 
gardens also produced honey and opo- 
balsam, the cypros-tree or el-Henna, - 
and Myrobalanum; as well as an 
abundant supply of the more common 
fruits. Of all these rich productions, 
which gave Jericho such celebrity of 
cld, not one remains. The precious 
balsam was transferred by Cleopatra 
to the gardens of Heliopolis in Egypt ; 
but neither there nor here is it any 
longer known. The myrobalanum 
may probably be identical with the 
Zukkim of the Arabs—‘a thorny tree 
growing wild, though not plentiful, 
and bearing a green nut, which, being 
pressed, like the olive, yields an oil— 
the modern balsam of Jericho—highly 
prized by Arabs and pilgrims as a re- 
medy for wounds. 

During the rule of the crusading 
kings the sugar-cane was largely culti- 
vated in the plain of Jericho; and to 
that age are probably to be attributed 
the long aqueducts, all with pointed 

K 


196 


arches, now seen in every direction. 
The place then pertially regained its 
ancient fertility and celebrity, and was 
considered the garden of Palestine. 
The Latin kings gave it to the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre; but it was af- 
terwards transferred to the convent of 
nuns erected by Queen Melisanda at 
Bethany. Its annua] revenue is said 
to have been 5000 pieces of gold— 
about 5000/.—an immense sum in 
those days. To the same period the 

resent tower belongs, and was per- 
bs 8 erected for the protection of the 

elds and gardens against incursions 
of Bedawin. Itis@rst mentioned by a 
writer in the 13th centy., and 2 centu- 
ries later it be to be called the 
“ House of Zacchzeus.” 


THE Srre or GiLGAL.—Joshua tells 
us that the first encampment of the 
Israelites on the W. side of the Jor- 
dan was at “ . in the east border 
of Jericho;” and the }2 stones which 
the priests took up out of the bed of 
the river “did Joshua pitch in Gilgal” 
(Josh. iv. 19, 20). This Gilgal, we 
learn from Josephus (Ani. v. 1, 4), was 
10 stadia from Jericho and 50 from 
the Jordan. Now, whether we regard 
the Jewish historian as referring to 
the more ancient site at Ain es-Sul- 
tén, or the more modern on the banks 


of the Kelt, the distance co nds 
with that of the village of Rtha. At 
or near this village, then, Gilgal must 


have stood. In Rtha there is not a 
vestige of ancient ruins, though the 
stones of the modern houses appear to 
have been taken from older buildings. 
The construction of these houses, of 
the tower, and the aqueducts, may 
account for the disappearance of the 
ancient city; and there are, besides, a 
few heaps of rubbish, half-covered by 
weeds and bushes, in the surrounding 
fields. 

It is doubtful whether the name 
Gilgal was at first applied to acity or 
to an open place suitable for a large 
encampment. However this may be, 
there can be no doubt that here the 
Israelites first pitched their tents 
within the “Land of Promise” (Josh. 
iv. 19); and here they rested for 


Route 9.—Site of Gilgal. 


Sect. TTT. 


some time, “having rolled away the 
reproach of Egypt from off them” 
(id. v. 9). Here too they observed 
their first Passover in Canaan (id. v. 
10). And it was on this spot Joshua 
saw the man “standing over against 
him,” who declared that he had come 
“as captain of the host of the Lord” 
(v. 18, 14). Here the Tabernacle 
was set up, and here it remained 
during the long wars in the interior of 
Palestine until it found a_ resting- 
place at Shiloh (Josh. xviii. 1). Gilgal 

e in later times one of the assize 
towns of Samuel (1 Sam. vii. 16); and 
here the people were wont to assemble 
to offer up sacrifice (id. x. 8). Here 
Saul was made king, and here he conm- 
mitted the act on account of which 
the kingdom was taken from him and 
his posterity (id. xi. 15; xiii. 13, 14; 
xv.). It was here also the tribe of 
Judah assembled to welcome back 
David from exile (2 Sam. xix. 15); 
and here occurred several of those re- 
markable events in which the prophet 
Elisha was the main actor—the healing 
of the poisoned pot (2 Ki iv. 38- 
41); the cure of Naaman the Syrian 
(id. v.); and the punishment of Ge- 
hazi. Gilgal appears to have been 
early abandoned, for there is no trace 
of it after the exile, nor does Josephus 
refer to it as existing in his day. The 
site was still shown in the time of 
Eusebius ; and Arculf states that it was 
occupied at the period of his visit by a 
large church; he, however, locates it 
5 m. from Jericho, so that probably 
the founders of the church had not 
been very particular as to the topo 


graphy. 


Jericho to the Jordan.—The distance 
from Jericho to the banks of the 
Jordan is about 1h. The bathing- 
place of the Latin pilgrims is nearly 

ue E., beside the ruined convent of 
St. John, now called Kuser el- Yehud, 
“the Jews’ Castle.” That of the 
Greeks is lower down, and is the one 
usually visited by travellers. We shall 
make a slight détour, so as to take in 
an ancient site, and as the road is 
good we can make up for it by a canter 
across the plain. 


| 


_&. Pavestine. 


Beth-hoglah, now ’Ain Hajla.—Set- 
ting out from Riha in a 8.E. direction, 
and pasei g over fruitful but neglected 
fields, we reach in 20 min. some foun- 
dations of hewn stones, and we observe, 
4m. to the 8., a low mound, also 
covered with ruins. These are proba- 
bly the remains of convents, which 
we know formerly stood in the plain; 
perhaps one of them may be that 
mentioned by Arculf as occupying the 
site of Gilgal. In 40 min. more we 
reach Kusr Hajla, another old convent 
in better preservation. It takes its 
name from ’Ain Hajla, a large foun- 
tain, a mile to the N.E., to which we 
now ‘urn, as it marks ibe aaa 

eth-hoglah—a e onthe boun 
line between Fadah and Benjamin. 
The line commenced near the mouth 
of the Jordan, and, Beth- 
hoglah, went up through the moun- 
tains to En-Shemesh, and thence to 
En-Rogel, in the valley of Hinnom 
(Josh. xv. 5, 6). "Ain Hajla is sur- 
rounded by a wall of solid masonry, 
and sends forth a stream which irri- 
gates even yet, neglected gs it is, a 

ge section of the plain. From 
hence we gallop across the smooth 
plain to the Jordan, encountering as 
we approach the river low thorny 
shrubs, growing singly and in patches. 
Both the river and its glen are hid 
from view until we actually stand 
upon the high bank, and then we 
suddenly look down into a deep val- 
hey ite sides sprinkled with bushes, 
which become thicker and thicker, 
until in the centre they form one 
dense unbroken line of foliage. Still 
the river does not appear. We spur 
our horses along the narrow tortuous 
paths that here wind through the 
shrubbery, and at last draw up on a 
clear spot, all trampled and broken, 
where we see the ordan rushing 

ong at our feet—suddenly appearing 
from me thicket above, and sud- 

enly disappearing into it below, not 
more than 100 yards of it being 
visible. 


THe JorvaNn flows through a tor- 
tuous glen, varying from 200 to 600 
yds. in breadth, and from 50 to 80 ft. 


Route 9.—The Jordan. 


197 


in depth below the surrounding plain. 
The sides of the glen are abrupt an 
broken, composed of marl and clay, 
intermixed with some strata of lime- 
stone. The bottom is smooth, and 
sprinkled here and there with shrubs, 
which become thicker toward the cen- 
tre. The banks of the river are fringed 
with broad belts of tamarisk, oleander, 
and willow, among which reeds and 
underwood spring up so as to form 
impenetrable jungles—secure dens for 
the wild-boar and the leopard, and 
occasionally for the Bedawy robber. 
The river flows between deep banks 
of clay, and in size and appearance is 
not unliket he Tiber at Rome, though 
more rapid. Its breadth is here from 
80 to 100 ft.; in several places, how- 
ever, higher up, it spreads out to 150 
ft. or more, and the depth is often 
hg te pumas of 
n describin e e of the 
Israelites it is eaid in Beriptare that 
the “ Jordan overfloweth all his banks 
all the time of harvest;’’ but the 
meaning of the Hebrew simply is that 
the river “was filled up to all its 
banks "—that is, its proper channel was 
then full. “Thus understood,” Dr. 
Robinson rightly observes, “the Bib- 
lical account corresponds entirely to 
what we find to be the case at the 
present day. The Israelites ¢rossed 
the Jordan 4 days before the Passover 
(Easter). Then, as now, the harvest 
occurred during April and early in 
May, the barley preceding the wheat 
harvest by 2 or 3 weeks. Then, as 
now, there was a slight annual rise of 
the river which caused it to flow at. 
this season with full banks, and some- 
times to spread its waters even over 
the immediate banks of its channel, 
where they are lowest, so as in some 
places to fill the low tract covered 
with trees and vegetation along its 
side.” The precise spot where the 
Israelites crossed it is now impossible 
to determine. No argument can be 
grounded on the state of the present 
alluvial banks; for every one knows 
how apt such banks are to change 
their form, and even their place. 
The waters which came down the 
valley, we are informed, “stood and 


198 


rose up in a heap,” while those toward 
the sea “ flowed off,” so that the vast 
multitude most probably crossed the 
dry channel! in a broad line, extending 
over several miles. All we know 
definitely as to the place is, that they 
ed over “right against Jericho.” 
he traveller, as he sits beneath the 
willows on the Jordan’s banks, will 
read with new interest the account of 
this wonderful event as recorded in 
Joshua iii. and iv. The Israelites 
came down from the heights of Moab 
around Pisgah, probably by the pass 
of Wady Hesbfn (see Rte. 19), and 
encamped in the wide plain at the 
base of the mountains, near a city 
called Shittim, named, doubtless, from 
the acacia groves in its neighbourhood 
(Num. xxxiii. 48,49). Shittim must 
have stood near the mouth of Wady 
Hesbaén. From thence they removed 
to the Jordan, “and lodged there, 
before they passed over” (Josh. iii. 1), 
at a place “right against,” that is east 
of Jericho (ii. 16). The next day 
the priests advanced with the ark on 
their shoulders till their feet touched 
the water along the shelving bank. 
Nearly a mile (2000 cubits) behind 
them stood the people—Reuben, Gad, 
and Manasseh in the van, fully armed 
(iv. 12,13). The moment the priests 
dipped their feet in the water, the 
river-bed became dry as far up on 
the right as “Adam, the city which 
is beside Zaretan,”’ some 30 m. distant 
(comp. 1 Kings vii. 46). The waters 
which came down from the Sea of 
Galilee “stood and rose up,” while 
those below “flowed off” into the 
Dead Sea. A long section of the 
river-bed—farther than the eye could 
reach on each side—was thus left 
dry. In the midst of the dry bed the 
priests bearing the ark remained, until 
the whole people had passed over, and 
12 stones had been set up to mark the 
spot, and 12 others had been taken 
out of the river-bed to serve as a me- 
morial of the miracle in after times. 
Near, perhaps at, this very same 
spot, Elijah divided the waters, passed 
over the dry bed, and was taken up to 
heaven from that plain on the other 
side; and Elisha as he came back “took 


Route 9.—The Jordan. 


Sect. ITL 


the mantle of Elijah that fell from him, 
and smote the waters, saying, “ Where 
is the Lord God of Elijah?” and thus 
a third time the Jordan was divided 
(2 Kings ii.). 

But another event of still more 
thrilling interest has been long fixed 
near this spot—the Baptism of our Sa- 
viour. Therd are few who visit the 
Jordan but would like to believe that 
the site is really at the place where 
tradition has fixed it; and though 
there is no direct evidence as to the 
precise locality, we may safely assume 
that it could not have been far distant. 
All we know is that “John came 
preaching in the wilderness of Jadza,” 
and Jesus came “from Galilee to Jor- 
dan, unto John, to be baptized of him ” 
(Matt. iii. 1, 13). It would seem from 
this that the baptism took place toward 
the mouth of the river, on the confines 
of Judea. Immediately afterwards 
Jesus was “led up of the Spirit into 
the wilderness, to be tempted of the 
devil.” The leading up is descriptive 
of the features of the country ; and we 
are almost compelled to conclude that 
“‘the wilderness ’”’ is the same to which 
John is represented as having come 
preaching, immediately before the 
baptism. John the Evangelist, in refer- 
ring to the events which occurred sub- 
sequent to the temptation, says, “These 
things were done in Bethabara (or, as 
the best MSS. have it, Bethany) beyond 
Jordan, where John was baptizing ” 
(i. 28, 29). Some have concluded 
from this, that the baptism of Jesus 
took place in Bethabara; and they try 
to identify Bethabara, “the House of 
Passage,” with a ford of the river near 
Succoth, where Jacob crossed from 
Mahanaim, where the Midianites en- 
deavoured to escape in their flight 
from Gideon, and where Jephtha slew 
the Ephraimites (Gen. xxxili. 17 ; Jud. 
vii. 24; xii. 5,6). This ford is some 
30 m. N. of Jericho. It should be 
borne in mind, however, that the read- 
ing Bethabara is very hypothetical, 
and was adopted by Origen, chiefly 
because he knew a Bethabara and did 
not know a Bethany beyond Jordan; 
and farther, it is far from certain that 
the scene of the baptism was here at 


S. PALESTINE. 


all. On the whole I am inclined to 
believe that Christ was baptized on the 
confines of the wilderness of Judsa, 
and near the spot where the river 
was thrice miraculously divided. But 
wherever the true scene may be, none 
can doubt that it was in the waters of 
the Jordan the Son of God was bap- 
tized; and this fact will attach to that 
river a sacred interest, such as never 
has been, and never can be, possessed 
by any other in the world. 

One of the most singular ceremonies 
observed by the Christian churches in 
Palestine is that of the bathing of the 
pilgrims in the Jordan, year after year, 
at Easter. On the Monday of Passion 
week several thousand _half-frantic 
pilgrims rush down the wild pass from 
Jerusalem to Jericho, and bivouac on 
the site of the ancient Gilgal. The 
desolate plain is thus suddenly filled 
with life; and the stray traveller who 
witnesses the scene will be strikingly 
reminded of the multitudes that 
thronged, 18 centuries ago, to the 
“baptism of John.’’ Every Christian 
state of Europe and Asia has its repre- 
sentative there; and there, too, is seen, 
picturesquely grouped, every variety 
of costume. At their head marches 
the Turkish governor of Jerusalem, or 
his deputy, with an armed escort, to 
guard against the bandits, who, since 
the days of the “Good Samaritan,” 
have infested this desert road. Some 
hours before dawn on the following 
morning a host of little tom-toms sud- 
denly give forth their discordant but 
stirring roll, and a thousand torches 
suddenly flash amid the thickets of 
the plain. Over the desert presses the 
crowd in silence. A ruddy glow along 
the eastern horizon brings out into 
bold relief the summits of the Moab 
mountains, and gives a hint of the 
sun’s approach; and the pilgrims, as 
they descend the steep bank from the 
upper terrace, now see, in the pale 
morning light, the dark line of foliage 
that hides the sacred stream. An open- 
ing in the fringed border is soon after 
discovered, and the motley throng 
hastily dismount, and, as Mr. Stanley 
graphically describes it, “set to work 
to perform their bath; most on the 


Route 9.—The Jordan. 


‘racts of their own Nile. 


199 


open space, some farther up amongst 
the thickets, some plunging in naked, 
most, however, with white dresses, 
which they bring with them, and 
which, having been so used, are kept 
for their winding-sheets. Most of the 
bathers keep within the shelter of the 
bank, where the water is about 4 ft. in 
depth, though with a bottom of very 
deep mud. The Coptic pilgrims are 
curiously distinguished from the rest 
by the boldness with which they dart 
into the main current, striking the 
water after their fashion alternately 
with their 2 arms, and playing with 
the eddies, which hurry them down 
and across, as if they were in the cata- 
... A primi- 
tive domestic character pervades in a 
singular form the whole transaction. 
The families which have come on their 
single mule or camel now bathe toge- 
ther, with the utmost gravity; the 
father receiving from the mother the 
infant, which has been brought to re- 
ceive the one immersion which will 
suffice for the rest of its life, and thus, 
by a curious economy of resources, 
save it from the expense and danger of 
a future pilgrimage in after years. In 
about 2 re the shores are cleared ; 
with the same quiet they remount their 
camels and horses; and before the 
noonday heat has set in, are again en- 
camped on the upper plain of Jericho. . 
. .Once more they may be seen. At 
the dead of night the drum again 
awakes them for their homeward march. 
The torches again go before; behind 
follows the vast multitude, mounted, 
passing in profound silence over that 
silent plain—so silent that, but for the 
tinkling of the drum, its departure 
would hardly be perceptible - The 
troops stay on the ground to the end, 
to guard the rear; and when the last 
roll of the drum announces that the 
last soldier is gone, the whole plain 
returns again to its perfect solitude.” 


From the Jordan to the Dead Sea: 
—The Jordan, a short distance below 
the pilgrims’ bathing-place, sweeps 
round to the W., and then to the S:E. 
and 8. again; widening gradually as 
it advances, and becoming more slug- 


200 


gish. Towards the mouth of the 
ver the banks are low and muddy. 
At the mouth the width is 180 yds., 
and the depth only 3 ft.; but there 
is no ford, owing to the soft and 
slimy nature of the banks and bed. 
The embouchure is considerably in- 
clined to the north-eastern ang e of 
the Dead Sea, and immediately in 
front of it are 3 small mud islands 
from 6 to 8 ft. high, apparently sub- 
ject to overflow. 

In going from the Jordan to the 
Dead it is better to strike across 
the plain in @ south-western course, as 
we thus escape the soft banks of the 
delta, » and save & considerable détour. 

mmediately on gaining the u 
bank or terrace we enter a ‘fat, 
smooth plain, covered with a white 
sulphureous crust, and without almost 
a single vestige of vegetation. Here 
we feel the oppressive atm 
this desolate region in all its intensity. 
The air becomes close and hazy as 
the sun ascends, giving a wavy motion 
to the parched soil, and a strange in- 
distinctness of outline to distant ob- 
jects. After an hour's weary ride over 
a trackless desert wo suddenly reach 
the shore of that mysterious sea, 
with its unwholesome swamps, and 
slimy margin, and ri 
broken canes, and willow-twigs, and 
poplar-trunks; all lying among the 

t incrustations. The scene is 
solemn in its dreary desolation; the 
retiring mountains on either side being 
entirely naked, of a dull y hue, 
streaked with purple shadows, hot 
and parched to the last degree. A 
little peninsula (an island when the 
water is high) with a long narrow 
neck is before us; riding out to it we 
find it entirely covered with ruins, ap- 
parently of great antiquity, consisting 
of large unhewn stones lying in con- 
fused heaps, and here and there ar- 


‘ ranged as foundations. Here too is a 


quantity of drift timber. The inquisi- 
tive traveller will now test the buoy- 
ancy of the water by a bath,.and its 


saltness and incomparable bitterness | f 


by a mouthful; while he is occupied 
in scrubbing the slimy incrustation 
from his body, and trying to eradicate 


Route 9.— The Dead Sea. 


ere of 


of drift of 


Sect. ITT. 


the nauseous taste from his mouth, we 
may induige in a glance at the scenery 
and history of the Dead Sea. 


THe Deap Sea is, whether cow 
sidered physically or historically, the 
ble sheet of water in the 

world. It lies in the lowest of 
at deep ravine which extends from 
the base of Hermon to the gulf of 
*Akabah. A section of the ravine, 
more than 140 m. in le is below 
the level of the sea, and the depres- 
sion of the surface of the Dead Sea 
amounts to no less than 1312 ft. A 
single glance at the features of this 


gion 1s sufficient to show that the.' 


vity of the Dead Sea was in 
ts conformation with the Jo 
ey on the N., and the 'Arabah on the 


. The breadth of the whole valley ' 


is pretty uniform, only contracting a 
little to the 8. of the Lake of Tiberias, 
and expanding somewhat at Jericho ; 
the mountains on each side thus run in 
nearly pereliel lines from Hermon to 
"Aka The Dead Sea, therefore, 
occupies a section of the great valley, 
which only differs from the rest in 
being deeper and covered with water. 
On the E. and W. it is shut in by lofty 
cliffs of bare white or gray limestone, 
dipping in many places into its bosom 
without leaving even a footpath along 
the shore. Its length is 40 m, and 
its test breadth 84, narrowing to 5 
at the northern extremity. Near its 
S.E. angle, opposite the ravine of 
Kerak, is a broad low promontory, 
with a long point or cape stretching 
more than 5 m. northward up the 
centre of the sea. And it is worthy 
of special notice that the whole sec- 
tion of the sea, N. of this promontory, 
is of great depth, varying from 40 
to 218 fathoms; and in some places 
the soundi show upwards of 118 
fathoms within a few yards of the 
eastern cliffs. The southern section, 
on the other hand, is quite shallow; 
never more than from 2 to 3 fathoms, 
and generally only about as many 
eet. 


Lying in this deep caldron, encom- 
passed by bare white cliffs, and ex- 
posed during the long Syrian summer 


al- /- 


( 


S. Pavesrrne. 


to the unclouded beams of a burning 
sun, nothing could be expected on the 
shores of the Dead Sea but sterility 
and death-like solitude ; and nothing 
else does the traveller find, save where, 
here and there, a brackish fountain, 
or mountain streamlet, creates a little 
thicket of willow, tamarisk, and 
Oleander. Around these, however, 
birds sing sweetly as in more genial 
climes, and the Arab pitches his 
tent like his brethren on the high 
eastern plateau, and a luxuriant har- 
vest rewards the labours of the 
husbandman—all showing that the 
stories so long current about the 
deadly exhalations from the poisonous 
waters are wholly fabulous. It is true 
that the tropical heat of the climate 
causes immense evaporation, which 
often renders the atmosphere heavy and 
dark, and the marshes of the Ghor 
ive rise in summer to intermittent 
evers, so that the proper inhabitants, 
including those of Jericho, are a feeble 
and sickly race; but this has no ne- 
cessary connexion with the Dead Sea 
or the character of its waters. The 
marshes of Iskanderfin, on the shore 
of the Mediterranean, are much more 
unhealthy than any part of the Ghér. 
The geological structure of the 
shores of the Dead Sea has never yet 
been thoroughly examined. The most 
careful survey hitherto published is 
that of Dr. Anderson of the American 
Expedition, and may be seen in the 
(ficial Report presented to the 
nited States Government. The 
whole range of cliffs along the west- 
ern shore is limestone, similar to that 
in the neighbouring Judean hills; it 
only varies in its shades of colour, 
being mostly white, but occasionally 
changing to a yellow and even a red- 
dish hue. Along their base are several 
brackish and tepid springs; and at the 
N.W. angle of the sea are salt marshes, 
covered with a whitish nitrous crust, 
amid which pieces of pure sulphur are 
often met with. 5S. of ‘Ain Jidy are 
similar marshes, with salt-pits, in which 
sulphur, asphalte, and even pumice- 
stone abound ; these chiefly occur at 
the little bay called Birket el-Khulil. 
At the 8.W. corner are the remarkable 


Route 9.— The Dead Sea. 


201 


salt-hills of Usdum, already alluded to 
(Rte. 4), which are the principal 
causes of the extreme saltness of the 
water. On the S.E., beyond the 
marshy ground of the Ghar, are sand- 
stone mountains, a continuation of the 
Edom range; these give place to 
limestone in the valley of Kerak, but 
northward the sandstone again appears 
in thick strata below the limestone 
mountains of Moab. The promontory, 
or peninsula, el-Lisan “the Tongue,” 
as the Arabs call it, is a post-tertiary 
deposit of carbonate of lime and sand- 


.stone disintegrated, intermixed with 


sulphur and gypsum. At the mouth 
of Wady Zurka Ma’‘in are the celebrat- 
ed warm springs of Callirrhoe, to which 
Herod the Great went in the vain 
hope of being cured of his loathsome 
disease. Here, between lofty perpen- 
dicular cliffs of red sandstone, a copi- 
ous stream of sweet warm water flows 
into the lake. N. of this the cliffs 
bordering on the shore are composed 
of sandstone, over which limestone 
lies in places; and dykes and seams 
of old trap-rock also frequently occur. 
Here too, near the N.E. angle, we 
observe considerable quantities of post- 
tertiary lava; pumice-stone so light 
and porous that its specific gravity is 
less than that of the waters on which 
it easily floats; and likewise volcanic 
slay of various kinds. 

It will thus be seen that, though the 
mountain ranges on each side of the 
Dead Sea are wholly, or almost wholly, 
composed of stratified rock, yet igneous 
rock is not entirely wanting ; and this, 
with the warm springs, the sulphur, 
pumice-stone, and volcanic slag, proves ! 
the presence of volcanic agencies in: Y 
the valley at no very remote period. : 
Few travellers visit Jerusalem who| 
do not carry away with them, in the 
form of inscribed book, or cup, or ! 


+ 
© 
a 


“holy cross,” a portion of the black’ | 


bituminous stone found in large 
quantities along the shores of the sea. 

osephus tells us that the sea in many 
places sends up masses of aaphalium, 
which float on the surface; and the 
same phenomenon is still occasionally 
witne especially after earthquakes. 
Dr. Robinson was informed by the 

K 3 


202 


was cast upon the shore near the 8.E. 
corner ; after the earthquake of 1837, 


also, an immense mass was discovered 
floating on the surface, and was driven 
aground on the W. side, not far from 
Usdum. These facts are all of the 
greatest importance when viewed in 
connexion with the historic notice in 
The extreme saltness and 
pungent bitterness of its water are 
also remarkable characteristics of this 


the Bible. 


sea; and are doubtless owing to the 
nature of the soil, which abounds with 
salt-springs, pits, and marshes; and 


especially to the huge ridge of fossil 
salt, called Jebel Usdum, at its south- 


ern end (see Rte. 4). Some idea may 


be formed of the character of the Dead 
Sea water from the fact, that, while 
_ the saline particles in the ocean 
' amount to only 4 per cent., the former 
contains 26} per cent., and its specific 


gravity is, therefore, about one-fifth 
greater than that of the ocean. It is, 
in fact, impossible for the human body 


to sink init. A bath in it is pleasant 


and refreshing, if care be taken to 
keep the water out of the mouth and 
eyes; the only strange effect produced 
is a slight greasiness of the skin, which 
remains for a day or so. 


Historical Notices of the Dead Sea. 
—Nearly 4000 years ago, when the 
herdsmen of Abraham and Lot dis- 
puted, and it was deemed best to se- 
parate, Lot looked down from the 
heights of Bethel, “and beheld all 
the plain of Jordan, that it was well 
watered everywhere, before the Lord 
destroyed Sodom and Gomorrah, even 
as the Garden of the Lord, like the 
land of Egypt, as thou comest unto 
Zoar.” (Gen. xiii. 10.) This description 
is filled out in detail by subsequent 
allusions. The region is represented 
as a “deep valley” (Hmek—Gen. xiv. 
3, 8, 10), distinguished from the sur- 
rounding desert by its “ fertile fields” 
(Siddim—id.). How entirely different 
this is from the present aspect of the 
country, a single glance at the deso- 
late slimy shores, and the salt-en- 

~usted plains behind, and the bleak 


Route 9,— The Dead Sea, 


Arabs that after the earthquake of 
1834 a large quantity of asphaltum 


cliffs above, is sufficient to show. 
There must, however, have been a 
lake here at that time as well as now, 
to receive the waters of the Jordan, 
and of the smaller streams and foun- 
tains that still exist along the margin 
of the valley; but it is evident that 
the lake must have been much smaller 
than the present one, leaving a broad 
margin round it of fertile and verdant 
plains, “ well watered everywhere like 
the land of Egypt,” especially on the 
southern side, “as thou comest unto 
Zoar.” Upon these plains Gentile 
and Jewish records combine in placing 
the earliest seat of Phoenician civili- 
zation. “The Tyrians,” says Justin, 
“ first dwelt by the Syrian lake before 
they removed to Sidon.” Sodom, 
Gomorrah, Admah, and Zeboim are 
mentioned as the first cities of the 
Canaanites; and when Lot went 
down from Bethel the “ cities of the 
plain” formed a nucleus of civilized 
life before any city, except Hebron 
and perhaps Jerusalem, had sprung 
up in Central Palestine. Their in- 
habitants were both licentious and 
cowardly ; and like their degenerate 
representatives of the present day, 
they were content for a long time to 
pay black mail to the hardy tribes of 
the eastern desert. When they re- 
fused the customary tribute, they 
were attacked, beaten, and plundered ; 
nd they were indebted for the recap- 
ture of wives, children, and goods to 
the courage and enterprise of Abra- 
ham and his 318 armed retainers.— 
(Gen. xiv.) 

Now comes a most important epoch 
in the physical history of the “ vale of 
Siddim.” In the Scripture narrative 
of the battle of the 5 Kings, “pits of 
bitumen ”’ are spoken of, into which 
many fell in their flight. The name 
Sodom, too (“burning’’), if it be not 
derived from the subsequent catas- 
trophe, shows that the marks of fire 
had already passed over the doomed 
valley. Abraham, then dwelling at 
the Oak of Mamre (Rte. 7), by He- 
bron, received the visit of the angels, 
and accompanied them towards So- 
dom. After his urgent appeal on 
behalf of the cities, he returned to his 


Sect. III. 


- 


S. PALESTINE. 


tents; but early the next morning he 
went to the same spot, “and looked 
toward Sodom and Gomorrah, and 
toward all the land of the plain, and 
behold, and lo, the smoke of the 
country went up as the smoke of a 
furnace.” (Gen. xix. 28.) Lot, 
driven forth from Sodom at the first 
dawning of the morning, reached the 
“ little city” of Zoar, as “ the sun was 
risen upon the earth ” (id. xix. 15, 23); 
and Zoar, as we have seen (Rte. 4), 
was situated on the eastern shore of 
the sea, near the broad promontory of 
Lisén. These facts prove that the 
doomed cities and their well-watered 
plain were towards the southern end 
of the lake, for otherwise Abraham 
could not have seen them from any 
point at,;an easy distance from He- 
bron, and Lot could not have gained 
Zoar in the short interval between 
dawn and sunrise. This southern sec- 
tion, too, as we have seen, is very 
shallow. 

The precise manner in which the 
Lord overthrew the cities is not 
clearly indicated, but it would seem 
that fire had caught the inflam- 
mable bitumen around them, so as to 
consume them, and render the whole 
plain like a furnace. May it not be 
that the houses were constructed of 
calcareous bitumen, and cemented, 
like the Tower of Babel, by pure 
asphalte ? thus they would be in the 
highest degree inflammable. The fire 
was probably the result of volcanic 
action, thrown up from some crater, 
and “rained down” again upon the 
plain. Earthquakesusually accompany 
voleanic action, and these even yet 
throw up huge masses of asphalte from 
the bottom of this section of the lake. 
Such masses ejected from the earth 
at that time would add fuél to the 
fearful flame, and make the confla- 
gration sweep over the whole plain. 
It would be no uncommon effect of 
such causes, either so to heave up the 
bottom of the ancient lake as to make 
its waters cover the scorched vale 
of Sodom ;.or so to depress the vale 
itself that they would naturally over- 
flow it. These views are no mere 
fanciful theories or hypotheses ; but, 


Route 9.—Dead Sea to Mar Sdba. 


203 


while in accordance with Scripture 
narrative, they also rest on a solid 
basis of well-authenticated historic 
details, and careful topographical no- 
tices, combined with the results of sci- 
entific research. 


The Dead Sea to Mar Sdba.—The 
direct road from the little peninsula 
at the north-western corner of the 
Dead Sea to Mar Saba can be ridden 
in about 44 hrs. It first leads for 1 h. 
across the plain, passing to the right 


of a jungle of canes and thorn- . 


bushes, nourished by a brackish foun- 
tain called ‘Ain Jehair, and winding 
among @ succession of deep furrows 
and pits, wrought by winter torrents 
in the white chalk strata, not inaptly 
compared by Maundrell to a collec- 
tion of gigantic lime-kilns. Then it 
mounts, for another hour, the steep 
and rugged pass of Nukb el-Kunei- 
terah, where the geologist may pick 
up fine specimens of calcareous bitu- 
men. But, before entering again the 
“Wilderness of Judwa,” the biblical 
antiquary may, perhaps, like to take 
a distant glance at M. de Saulcy’s 
Gomorrah. It is situated on the 
lower slope of the mountain, about 
14h. south of the path, and not far 
from the bold headland called Ras 
el-Feshkhah, which here terminates 
the view along the western shore. 
The nature of the ruins (?) is not 
such as would arrest the attention of 
travellers less enthusiastic than the 
learned Frenchman, and even he will 
not take upon him to determine whe- 
ther some of them were originally 
temples or goat-pens! Still he main- 
tains that he has discovered the long- 
lost Gomorrah; though he frankly 
confesses that the grave Abbe, his 
companion, laughed in his face when 
he showed him the remains. 

The pass of Kuneiterah leads up 
the southern side of a deep wady 
of the same name, having here and 
there the steep mountain-side on 
the 1., and the yawning ravine, into 
which a breath would almost hur! us, 
on the rt. As we ascend, the Jordan 
valley opens up far northward, with 
the long dark line of yerdure winding 


[I 


y 


204 


through its centre, marking the chan- 
nel of the sacred river. The Dead 
Sea, too, is now bright and sparkling 
beneath an unclouded sun, and be- 
yond it are the mountains of Moab, 
rising from its bosom. The chasm of 
Zurka furrows them on the 8.E., and 
Wady Hesbin, in which the ruins of 
Heshbon still lie, is distinctly seen 
winding down to the plain, just over 
the northern corer of the sea. On 
reaching the top of the pass we get a 
single peep at a Muslem wely, called 
Neby Musa, perched on the summit 
of a hill, about 2 m. to the rt. 
Here a Mohammedan tradition has 
buried the prophet Moses, and hun- 
dreds of pilgrims visit the shrine 
every year. One of the most remark- 
able passages in De Saulcy’s remark- 
able book is his attempt to transfer 
Pisgah to this spot. The name of 
Pisgah will cause every traveller to 
turn round, and closely examine the 
ridge ef Moab, in the hope of being 
able to fix his eyes on some conspicu- 
ous summit that might answer to that 
hill from which the Hebrew lawgiver 
gained his panoramic view of Pales- 
tine. But it is in vain—the moun- 
tains of Moab are there like a huge 
wall, and the plain of Moab, where 
the people encam is there, too, at 
their base, beyond the river, but no 
one peak can be distinguished which 
we could identify with Pisgah. (For 
Pisgah see below, Rte. 19.) 

The road now runs across a dreary 
white plateau, and up a steep grey 
mountain, till we reach, in another 
hour, near the summit, a rock-hewn 
reservoir, half filled with water, which 
tastes better than it*looks. Another 
‘ hour brings us to the top of 
the ridge, where we obtain a most 
commanding 
behind, and the “ Wilderness of En- 
gedi” to the southward, rugged, 
dreary, and bare, affording occasional 
glimpses at the Dead Sea, through the 
breaks in the distant cliffs. Descend- 
ing again over some naked grey 
ridges, and through some naked grey 
ravines, we reachin 1 h. from the re- 
servoir the northern side of the Kid- 
om. The wady is here broad, and 


Route 9.— Convent of Mar Sdba. 


Sect. ITI. 


the sides, though steep, are not preci- 
pitous; but jast below the point 
where we cross it, it turns sharply to 
the south between perpendicular cliffs 
from 200 to 300 feet high, which look 
as if an earthquake had separated 
them. The road is carried up the 
rt. bank, and then along the very 
brink of the chasm, partly on a na- 
tural ledge of rock, and partly on an 
artificial cutting. As we advance the 
ravine becomes deeper and deeper 
on the 1., and the mountains overhead 
wilder and grander, while here and 
there the dark openings of caves and 
grottoes in the sides of the cliffs show 
that we are entering the haunts of 
the old anchorites. Assuredly the 
men had a taste for solitude who 
scooped out their prison-homes in the 
rocky ramparts of this awful ravine. 
At last, after winding along for about 
a mile, the massive walls and towers 
of the convent itself burst upon our 
view, clinging to the rt. side of the 
ravine, and covering it from top to 
bottom. 


ConvENT OF Mar SApa.—In the wild 
grandeur of its situation Mar Saba is 
the most extraordinary building in 
Palestine. Just at the place where. 
it stands, a small side ravine tumbles’ 
down into the Kidron, and the build- 
ings cover both sides of the former, 
and the projecting cliff between the 
two, the i lar masses of walls 
towers, chambers, and chapels, here 
perched upon narrow rock terraces, 
and there clinging to the sides of pre- 
cipices. The ch., an edifice with enor- 
mous buttresses, a large dome and 
small clock-turret, occupies the very 
point of the rock, and the other 


view over the country |\buildings are so dispersed along the 


whole side from the summit to the 
‘bottom of the ravine, that it is al- 

ost impossible to tell how much is 
masonry, and how much nature. 
‘Within, the same difficulty is felt, for 
everywhere advantage has been taken 
of natural caves, and artificial ones 
hewn out in bygone ages by the pious 
industry of monks end PA front of 
these simple facades have been built, 


S. Pa.kEsTINe. 


or miniatare cells constructed, while 
steep flights of stairs, and long narrow 
galleries, forming a labyrinth which 
none but the inhabitants can thread, 
connect the whole. The fout en- 
semble is picturesque and singularly 
wild, especially when we view it in 
the pale moonlight, when the project- 
ing cliffs and towers are tinged with 
the silver light, while the intervening 
spaces and the deep chasm below are 
shrouded in gloom. Never did the 
taste of anchorite select a spot better 
adapted for gloomy devotion and use- 
less solitude than the glen of Mar 
Saba. 

After skirting the cliff by the exca- 
vated path, we descend by a broad 
paved staircase to a little platform. 
In front is the massive wall, pierced 
by @ small portal, with an iron door 
strong enough for the Bank of Eng- 
land. Here a parley must be held 
with the garrison, who take a peep at 
us from a loophole overhead. The 
letter of introduction is delivered, 
read, and, if found in order, the exact 
number specified in it obtain admis- 
sion. I have already said that, like 
the hermit’s cell of Irish story, no fe- 
male foot is ever permitted to cross 
the threshold. The monks are too 
holy to be hospitable, as Miss Marti- 
neau wickedly remarks. There is, 
indeed, an airy tower without the 
walls, on the very summit of the cliff, 
which ladies may occupy, if they pre- 
fer it to a tent pitched in the little 
glen above the portal. It is two 
stories high, with a heavy grated 
door some 20 feet up its side. Here 
the adventurous Madame Pfeiffer, of 
“Round the World ” celebrity, spent 
a night in utter solitude; and I 
question if, in all her wanderings, she 
ever looked out upon a scene of 
sterner desolation than that then be- 
fore her. 

St. Sabas, the founder of the con- 
vent, is said to have been born in the 
year A.D. 439. He was a man of ex- 
traordinary sanctity; and assuredly no 
sronger proof could be given of the 
high veneration in which he was 
held than the fact, if fact it be, that 
he drew thousands of followers after 


Route 9.— Convent of Mar Saba. 


205 


him to this dreary region. Some 
writers affirm that as many as 14,000 
swarmed in this glen and its neigh- 
bourhood during the saint’s life. Sabas - 
was a native of Cappadocia, but at a 
very early age he devoted himself to 
conventual life and went to Palestine. 
After visiting many parts of the 
country in search of a home, he with- 
drew to this spot about the year 483, 
and began to form a religious com- 
munity; he soon afterwards founded 
the convent which still bears his 
name. He subsequently received from 
the Patriarch of Jerusalem the ap- 
pointment of archimandrite, or abbot 
of all the anchorites of Palestine. In 
the controversy raised about the Mo- 
nophysite heresy, which so troubled 
the Church during the early part of 
the 6th centy., he took a leading 
part; and on one occasion, with a 
little army of monks, he marched to 
Jerusalem, drove the emissaries of 
the heretical patriarch of Antioch 
from the city, though accompanied 
by Imperial troops, and pronounced 
anathemas against him, and all those 
of his communion, in the presence of 
the magistrate and officers sent by 
theemperor. The fame of the ardent 
piety and indefatigable zeal of Sabas 
was only surpassed by that of his 
miracles, many of which are recorded 


by his admirer and biographer, Cyril. * © 


Among the most useful of them was 
the creation of a fountain for the use 
of his followers, which may still be 
seen in a narrow cave in the bottom 
of the glen below the convent walls. 
The venerable saint died peaceably 
in his favourite retreat, in a.D. 532, at 
the advanced age of 94 years. The 
subsequent history of the convent is, 
like that of most of this land, stained 
with blood. It was plundered by the 
Persians in the 7th centy., and 44 of 
the monks murdered. It passed 
through all the vicissitudes of the other 
Holy Plaees during the fierce strug- 

les between the Crescent and the 

ross; and the wild Bedawin still 
hover round its walls, ready to pounce, 
at any unguarded moment, upon its 
hoarded treasures. It is said to be 
one of the richest convents in Pales- 


206 


tine, and this is not a very safe repu- 
tation in such a country; but its 
strong walls, and still stronger posi- 
tion, aided by the rigorous precau- 
tions of the monks in never permitting 
® Bedawy to cross the threshold, have 
long kept it safe from the wild desert 
hordes. There is a little tribe scat- 
tered among the surrounding glens, 
too, who receive the title of Ghufir, or 
“protectors,” like some of the Ta- 
warah Arabs of Mount Sinai; they get 
presents in food and clothing from 
the monks, and enjoy the monopoly 
of conveying them and their supplies 
from Jerusalem. 

Among the remarkable sights of 
the convent, exhibited, of course, to 
very traveller who desires to see 
them, are—the Tomb of St. Sabas in 
a small neat chapel; another chapel, 
fitted up with stalls, and containing 
the charnel-house, wherein are the 
piled-up-bones of martyred saints in- 
numerable; the cells once occupied 
by John of Damascus, Cyril the bio- 
grapher of Sabas, Euthymius, and 


others of less note; and last, but} 


not least, the original grot, the germ 
of the whole establishment, in which 
Sabas spent many years of his life. 
It is only distinguished from others 
around it by greater rudeness, and 
less appearance of adaptation to the 
wants of a human being. There is a 
curious tradition attached to it, which 
the reverend cicerone will not fail to 
relate. The cave, it seems, was ori- 
ginally a lion’s den, and was in actual 
occupation of the monarch of the wil- 
derness when St. Sabas first visited 
the place with the pious design of 
founding a religious house. The saint 
was satisfied that the grotto would 
serve a8 head-quarters, and he politely 
hinted to its master that it would be 
necessary for him to evacuate the 
premises. The animal quietly took 
the hint, and left his lair to its 
higher destiny! Another curiosity is 
shown in the convent—a palm-tree, 
still flourishing, said to have been 
planted by St. Sabas. 

Mar Saba is the property of the 
Greek Church, and the poor monks, in 
addition to their solitude, live under 


Route 9.—Mar Sdba to Bethlehem. 


Sect. ITI. 


@ very severe rule, never eating flesh, 
and mortifying all feelings of Christian 
compassion, as the angry Miss Marti- 
neau again observes, by never admitting 
any woman within their gates, under 
any stress of weather or other acci- 
dent. Visitors will perhaps be able to 
see for themselves that the monks do 
not abstain so rigorously from strong 
drinks as they do from strong meats. 
Their weary lives are often sclaced by 
little glasses of raki, and enlivened, 
too, by watching and feeding a flock 
of gay, cheerful_birds—something like 
the English blackbird, but with yellow 
wings, — which flutter among the 
orange-trees, and nestle in the sur- 
rounding cliffs, occasionally filling the 
glen with their sweet notes. There 
was, and probably is still, a good li- 
brary here, containing some rare ma- 
nuscripts of ancient date. These are 
particularly mentioned by a traveller 


‘of the last century, who says that he 


used to go very often to the convent, 
and stay a week examining the bio- 
graphies of hermits and fathers of the 
Church, together with their works. 
He mentions especially the life and 
writings of St. John of Damascus. 
The library was visited by the Hon. 
Mr. Curzon about 20 yrs. ago; but 
during my short stay at the convent a 
few months ago I was unable to ob- 
tain access to it. 


Mar SABa TO JERUSALEM.—This is 
an easy ride of 24 hrs., mostly up the 
deep glen of the Kidron. The ordi- 
nary road leaves the glen for a short 
time, and crosses a ridge, from which 
a wild and wide view is gained of the 
surrounding country. 


Mar SAspa TO BETHLEHEM. — By 
making an early start from the con- 
vent and crossing the mountain to 
Bethlehem, the traveller will have 
sufficient time to visit all the places 
of interest there, and to return to Je- 
rusalem in the evening. Thus a day 
may be saved. The road leads for 
4 hr. back again along the S. bank of 
the Kidron, and then turning to the 
I. passes a low ridge, and crosses a 
succession of naked plateaus. On ap- 


° 


S. PALESTINE. 


proaching Bethlehem, the little vil- 
lage of Beit Sabfr is seen on the 1; 
and the conical peak of the Frank 
mountain also forms a prominent fea- 
ture a few miles southward. The 
whole distance is easily accomplished 
in 3 hrs. 


BETHLEHEM. — In sacred interest 
this village, though it be “ little among 
the thousands of Judah,” is only se- 
cond to Jerusalem itself. Few will 
climb the terraced acclivities that lead 
up to it from the Mar Saba road, or 
pass along the winding path that ap- 
proaches it from the Holy City, with- 
out calling to mind that wondrous 
event which has given its name to 
our era. But independent of all as- 
sociations its appearance is striking. 
It is situated on a narrow ridge which 
projects eastward from the central 
mountain range, and breaks down in 
abrupt terraced slopes to deep valleys 
on the N., E., and S. The terraces— 
admirably kept, and covered with 
rows of luxuriant olives, intermixed 
with the fig and the vine — sweep 
in graceful curves round the ridge, 
regular as stairs. On the eastern 
brow, separated from the village by a 
kind of esplanade, stands the great 
convent, grim and grey as an old ba- 
ronial castle. It is an enormous ir- 
regular pile of buildings, consisting of 
the Church of the Nativity, with the 
3 convents, Latin, Greek, and Ar- 
menian, abutting respectively on its 
north-eastern, south-eastern, and south- 
western sides. Externally there is 
nothing to call attention save the size, 
the strength, and the commanding 
site. It looks down upon those fields, 
the scene of Ruth's romantic story 
(Ruth ii.); and over that wilderness 
where David, her great-grandson, kept 
his father’s sheep (1 Sam. xvi. 11); and 
where the shepherds were probably 
abiding with their flocks by night 
when the “glory of the Lord shone 
round about them,” and an angel pro- 
claimed “the good tidings of great 
joy.” (Luke ii. 8-18.) 


Historical Notices.—No one has ever 
doubted that the present Beit Lahm, 


Route 9.— Bethlehem— Historical Notices. 


207 


“House of Flesh,” is identical with 
the ancient Bethlehem, “ House of 
Bread.” It was generally called in 
former days Bethlehem Judah, to dis- 
tinguish it from another Bethlehem in 
Zebulun (Josh. xix. 15); and it was 
likewise called Ephratah, “the fruit- 
ful,” though that name does not now 
seem quite so applicable (Micah v. 2). 
The place is first mentioned in con- 
nexion with the touching narrative of 
Rachel's death ; Jacob buried his be- 
loved wife “in the way to Ephrath, 
which is Bethlehem.” (Gen. xxxv. 19.) 
The next interesting event recorded 
in the history of the village is when 
Ruth the Moabitess returned with her 
mother-in-law Naomi, and gleaned 
barley in the fields of her husband's 
kinsman Boaz (Ruthii.). It was to 
the house of Jesse the Bethlehemite 
Samuel came, according to the com- 
mand of the Lord, with his horn of 
oil, to anoint David, then keeping his 
father's sheep .in the neighbouring 
desert, king over Israel; and after 
the reign of this monarch it was some- 
times called, by way of distinction, 
“The city of David.” (1 Sam. xvi.; 
Luke ii. 11.) Bethlehem was for a 
time in the hands of the Philistines 
when David and his men were in the 
cave of Adullam; and it was then he 
strangely longed for “ the water of the 
well of Bethlehem, which is by the 
gate;"’ and 3 of his “mighty men” 
immediately broke through the host of 
the enemy, perilling their lives to gra- 
tify the whim of their chief. (2 Sani. 
xxii. 14-16.) But that which gave to 
this little village the first rank among 
the holiest spots on earth was the 
birth of David's greater Son. Here 
the Saviour was born in a stable and 
cradled in a@ manger; here He was 
seen by the shepherds who had just 
heard in the adjoining fields hosts of 
angels celebrating the praises of the 
new-born King ; here the eastern magi 
worshipped Him, and presented their 
costly gifts. What a mighty infiu- 
ence for good has gone forth from 
this spot over the human family! 
What feelings of holy awe and heart- 
felt gratitude is a sight of it calculated 
to produce! These are the same hills 


208 


and vales and rocks and fields which 
were lighted up on that eventful night 
by the glory of God that shone around 
the shepherds; and which gave back 
in their echoes the triumphant song 
of the heavenly host, “Glory to 

in the highest, and on earth peace, 
goodwill toward men.” (Luke ii.) But 
when heaven and earth rejoiced, the 
mothers of Bethlehem were made to 
mourn; and as we sit on the convent 
top, or on some rock near it, readi 
the tale of woe, we almost fancy we 
hear that fearful wail which rent the 
air, and through the surrounding 
glens, when He suddenly “sent 
orth and slew all the children that 
were in Bethlehem, and in all the 
coasts thereof, from two years old and 
under.” (Matt. ii. 16.) 

Neither history nor tradition has 
ever lost sight of Bethlehem. In 
almost every centy. since New Testa- 
ment times it has been visited by 
writers and travellers. Helena built 
here a splendid church; and Jerome 
afterwards took up his abode in a grotto 
of the convent that sprung up round 
it; Paula, too, the Roman devotee, 
founded other convents, and spent the 
last days of her life beside her early 
friend. The crusaders, on their ap- 
proach to Jerusalem, first took posses- 
sion of Bethlehem, on the entreaty of 
its Christian inhabitants. In the year 
1110 it was made by Baldwin I. an 
episcopal see; but although this act 
was confirmed by Pope Pascal II., and 
the title long retained in the Latin 
Church, yet the actual occupancy of 
the see was of short continuance. 

The present inhabitants are said to 
number about 3000, and are all Chris- 
tians. There was formerly a Moham- 
medan quarter, but after a rebellion of 
the people in 1834 it was entirely 
destroyed by order of Ibrahim “Pasha. 
The people are peasants, living by 


the cultivation of their flelds and ter- 


raced gardens; and a few of them 
spend their e time in carving 
beads, crucifixes, models of the Holy 
Sepulchre, &c., in olive-wood and 
mother-of-pearl, for the numerous pil- 
grims and travellers. They are never- 
theless a restless race, given to quarrel- 


Route 9.—Bethlehem—The Inhabitants. 


ling and sedition. After the rebellion 
of 1834 they were disarmed by the 
Egyptian government. The way in 
which this is effected in Syria is quite 
characteristic of Eastern rule. Every 
town and village is required to give 
up to the soldiers, not, as one would 
naturally suppose, what arms they ac- 
ray Possess but a certain specified 
number of muskets and other weapons, 
whether they possess them or not. 
Many are thus compelled to search for 
and purchase arms at an enormous 
price to avoid the prison or the con- 
scription ; while not a few, on the 
other hand, buy up wretched old 
matchlocks, and hand them over to 
the government officers in lieu of their 
own effective arms. When this process 
was going on at Bethlehem an in- 
te sting incidentoccurred which serves 
remarkably to illustrate an ancient 
Bible custom. Some of the inhabitants 
were already in prison, and all were in 
the deepest distress—being unable to 
furnish the required number of arms— 
when Mr. Farren, English Consul at 
Damascus, then on a visit to Jerusalem, 
rode out to Solomon’s Pools in com- 
pany with the late Mr. Nicolayson. 
On his return, as he approached Beth- 
lehem, hundreds of people, male and 
female, met him, imploring the aid 
or mediation of England; and all at 
once, by a simultaneous movement, 
they spread their garments in the way 
before the horses. The Consul was 
affected to tears, but the stern rule of 
the Egyptian despot did not admit of 
interference. (See Mait. xxi. 8.) 

The ladies of Bethlehem are cele- 
brated for their beauty, which has 
something of a European cast, in what- 
ever way it may be accounted for; 
and Geramb says they are also cele- 
brated for their virtue, but others have 
cast serious doubts on this statement. 
However this may be, a thrilling tale 
is told of the fearful vengeance once 
taken by a dishonoured family upon 
an erring daughter, which, as it serves 
to illustrate a ‘very ancient popular 
law not yet altogether abolished, I 
shall here relate. (See Lev. xx. 10; 
John viii. 8-5.) Some years ago a 
Mohammedan of Bethlehem was ac- 


Sect. ITI, 


S. PALESTINE. 


cidentally found in one of the neigh- 
bouring grottoes, and unfortunately 
the young widow of a Catholic Beth- 
lehemite, celebrated for her beauty, 
was found there too. Those who dis- 
covered them at once spread the news 
through the village, and the Moham- 
medan took to fight. The young 
woman, alarmed at the uproar, had 
just time to seek refuge in the Latin 
convent ere her relatives came upon 
her ; but having discovered her retreat, 
they rushed to the spot. The door 
was locked, but though of iron it soon 
yielded to their fury. The excited 
crowd pressed in, and the unhappy 
victim was now face to face with those 
bent on sacrificing her. In vain the 
monks formed a rampart round her 
with their bodies; in vain they extended 
their supplicating hands towards the 
infuriated crowd; in vain they be- 
sought them, in the name of the 
merciful Saviour, who was born but a 
few paces off, not to spill the blood of 
an unfortunate fellow creature whose 
guilt was not proved ; in vain some of 
them threw themselves at the feet of 
the multitude, while others strove to 
repel them by force. The monks were 
driven aside, and the young woman 
dragged to the area in front of the 
convent. Here a scene was enacted, 
the very thought of which causes one 
to shudder with horror. Surrounded 
by her executioners, the hapless crea- 
ture cried aloud for mercy; she en- 
treated to be heard for a few moments ; 
she assured them she could prove her 
innocence. Her father, her brothers, 
her relatives were all there; but none 
would listen to her tale. She appealed 
to their sense of justice, to fraternal 
affection, to paternal love ; but all was 
in vain, and she sank fainting to the 
ground. She awoke again to con- 
sciousness ; but it was only when the 
death-stroke was given; she opened 
her eyes; but it was only to see her 
brothers, in imitation of the terrible 
example of her father, steeping their 
hands in her blood, and holding them 
up to the people to show that they 
had washed away the stain from their 


name! The still palpitating corpse 


was cut to pieces by the mob, and left 


od 


Route 9.—Bethlehem— Church of the Nativity. 


209 


exposed during the remainder of the 
day. 


THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY.— 
The grotto of the Nativity at Bethle- 
hem appears to have been honoured as 
early as the 2nd centy., and is probably 
the most ancient of those holy caves 
which are now scattered so plentifully 
over Palestine. The splendid Basilica 
was erected by the Empress Helena in 
the year A.D. 327, and is, therefore, the 
oldest monument of Christian archi- 
tecture in the world. It is about 120 
ft. long by 110 broad. Itis divided into 
central nave and 4 side aisles b 
ranges of Corinthian columns, whic 
support horizontal architraves. The 
columns are of marble, and were pro- 
bably taken from some more ancient 
building, perhaps the porches of the 
Temple at Jerusalem. This is the 
only part of the structure of any archi- 
tectural or antiquarian interest; and 
yet the pavement is broken, the roof 
rude and neglected, and the . whole 
seems as if it would ere long crumble f 
toruin. The mosaics that once adorned | ‘ 
the walls are almost entirely gone. i a 
The reason of this neglect is, that thet 
Basilica is now common pro , 
used by all the sects alike, and con- 
sequently a scene of continued rivalry 
and contention. The arrangement of 


the choir is peculiar, owing to the 
crypt beneath it being the great object 
of attraction. It is separated from 


the nave by a wall, and is divided 
into two chapels, one belonging to the 
Greeks, the other to the Armenians. 
From each of these a winding staircase 
leads down to the Grotto of the Na- 
tivity. On the N. side of the choir is 
the Latin Church of St. Catherine, a 
narrow vaulted building, with a recess 
on each side like transepts. Its walls 
are ornamented with several grim old 
pictures; and over the altar-screen is 
an omament of silver, with silver-gilt 
figures, a present from the king of 

aples. From this church there is 
likewise a passage, by a winding flight 
of stairs, to the sac ttoes ; and as 
most travellers visit them under the 
guidance of the Latin monks, we shall 
descend by this way. 


210 


On the 8. side of the church, not far 
from the door, we first descend a very 
narrow staircase hewn in the rock, 
lighted by a little glimmering lamp 
placed in a niche on the rt. hand before 
& picture of the Virgin. This staircase 
leads to a low vault of considerable 
size, on entering which we turn sud- 
denly to the rt. into a long narrow 

ge. Proceeding a few steps, we 
rave on the rt. the altar and tomb of 
St. Eusebius—not the historian, how- 
ever, whatever the monks may say. 
Passing this, we soon enter a small 
oblong chamber, extending N. and 8. 
at right angles to the passage. Taking 
first the S. end, we have on the E. side 
the altars and tombs of SS. Paula and 
Eustachia (her daughter) ; with a rude 
picture of the two saints over it. Op- 
posite this, on the W., is the tomb of 
St. Jerome, having over it a portrait 
of the great Father resting on a lion. 
From the N. end of the chamber we 
ascend by three steps to another square 
vault, some 20 ft. on each side and 9 
high, surrounded by a kind of stone 
sofa or dais, This is the study of 
Jerome—now a chapel with an altar 
on its eastern side, and an old painting 
above it representing the saint writing, 
and the lion at his feet. “ Here it was,”’ 
says Geramb, “that the illustrious re- 
cluse passed a great portion of his life ; 
here it was that he fancied he heard 
the peals of that awful trump, which 
shall one day summon all mankind to 
judgment, incessantly ringing in his 
ears; here it was that with a stone he 
struck his body, bowed by the weight 
of years and austerities, and, with loud 
cries, besought mercy of the Lord; 
and here too it was that he produced 
those laborious works which have 
justly earned him the title of the 
Father of the Church.” This is a 
spot which the Biblical scholar and 
the ecclesiastical historian will regard 
with peculiar interest, for there can 
be no reasonable doubt that for many 
years it formed the home and the study 
of that remarkable man whose name it 
bears. 

Returning to the grotto or chapel 
we first entered, we observe on its east- 
ern side, behind a massive column, an 


- 


Route 9.—Bethlehem— Church of the Nativity. Sect. LT. 


altar, said to mark the spot where 
20,000 children murdered by Herod’s 
order were buried, now called, for this 
reason, the Altar of the Innocents. A 
rude painting over it represents the 
massacre. The sceptical traveller may 
feel inclined to ask the reverend 
cicerone where room was found for 
such a multitude of bodies. 


Adjoining the Chapel of the Inno- 
cents on the 8. is a long narrow vault, 
to which we ascend by 5 steps: this is 
called the Chapel of Joseph, being the 
place where the husband of Mary is 
said to have retired at the moment of 
the Nativity. From this we enter a 
crooked, narrow passage, some 26 ft. 
long, and on reaching the end of it we 
find a door on the 1. opening into the 
W. end of 


The Chapel of the Nativity, a low 
vault, apparently hewn in the rock, 
38 ft. long by 11 wide. At the E. end 
is a small semicircular apse — the 
sanctum of the whole building. On 
approaching it we find a marble slab 
fixcd in the pavement, with a silver 
star in the centre, round which are the 
words— 


Hic DE VIRGINE MARIA JESUS 
CHRISTUS NATUS EST. 


“Here Jesus Christ was born of the 
Virgin Mary.” “To the believer,” 
Geramb truly observes, “ the word here 
has a charm, an attraction, a captiva- 
tion, which cannot be either felt or 
comprehended but on the spot.” This 
is unquestionable ; but it requires a 
larger dispensation of faith than falls 
to the lot of most people to make one 
believe that this gorgeous grotto, redo- 
lent of gold, and silver, and silk, and 
marble, and filled with incense fumes, 
is the StaBLe in which the Saviour 
was.born. Round the star are sus- 
pended 16 silver lamps, continually 
kept burning, and behind them, along 
the sides of the apse, are little gilt 
pictures of stiff saints, with necks all 
awry, after the orthodox Greek style. 
Over the star is a plain altar without 
picture or omament. Itis common to 
all the sects, and each must dress it 


S. PALestTIne. 


up, of course, when about to celebrate 
mass, with the requisite trappings. 

In the angles of the grotto beside 
the apse are two staircases, that 
on the 8. leading up to the Greek 
Chapel, and that on the N. to the 
Armenian; both in the choir of the 
Basilica. 
by the flight of stairs on the §8., and 
the side of the grotto, is the small 
chape” of the Presepium or “ Manger,” 
sunk about 2 ft. On the W. side is the 
place of the manger, now represented 
by a marble trough. The real Prexse- 
pium, as the Latins tell us, was long 
ago carried away to Rome, and is 
deposited in Santa Maria Maggiore, 
where his holiness the Pope exhibits 
it to the faithful every Christmas-day. 
Over the place is a good painting by 
Maello, of date 1781, representing the 
Virgin and Child, with the Shepherds 
and another female. The frame is 
of silver, and a silver wire screen is 
placed before it; while 5 silver lamps | 
continually light it up. On the oppo-| 
site side of the grotto is the station of ; 
the wise men, marked by an altar hav- : 
ing a good painting, apparently by the 
same artist. 

These various grottoes are minutely 
measured off by rule and line, and dis- 
tributed piecemeal among the rival 
sects that swarm around the building. 
Many a keen and bitter contest there 
has been for a few inches of a wall, or 
the fraction of an altar; and more than 
once the question of the opening and 
shutting of one of the doors has well- 
nigh involved Europe in war! What 
millions of money, what thousands of 
useless and toilsome pilgrimages, what 
oceans of blood, might have been 
spared to Christendom, if Christians 
had only learned the spirit of one short 
sentence uttered by their Divine 
Master! (John iv. 21-26.) 


About + m. N. of Bethlehem, E. 
of the Jerusalem road, is the traditional 
well of David, for whose water he 
longed when in the cave of Adullam : 
“Oh that one would give me to drink 
of the water of the well of Bethlehem, 
that is at the gate.” (1 Chron. xi. 15- 
19.) Itis a deep wide cistern, wholly 


Route 9.— Bethlehem —Milk Grotto. 


ee SD LL At A ASO 


211 


hewn in the rock, with 2 or 3 narrow 
openings, and is evidently ancient, 
though too far from the village to cor- 
respond to the words of the Bible, “ at 
the gate.” Round it, among the ter- 
raced vineyards, are some old founda- 
tions, and little paved areas, marking 


Just in the angle formed | the position of former buildings. 


A mile or so E. of the convent, in 
an enclosed section of a little plain, is 
shown the spot—a grotto of course— 
where the shepherds watched their 
flocks by night when the angels ap- 
peared to them (Luke ii. 8); and not 
far distant is the village in which, it is 
said, the shepherds resided. 

But one of the most wonderful places 
round Bethlehem is the Milk Grotto, 
in the side of the ridge below the con 
vent. Tradition relates that the Vir- 
gin and Child hid themselves here 
from the fury of Herod for some time 
before their flight to Egypt. The 
grotto is excavated in the chalky rock, 
which derives its whiteness, say the 
monks, from some drops of the Virgin's 
milk which accidentally fell upon it. 
Many are the pilgrimages made to 
this spot, and the reason is, the virtue 
attributed to the stone of miraculously 
increasing woman's milk. The stone 
is soft, and bits are broken off, and 
conveyed to every province of Europe, 
Asia, and Africa, in which Christian 
superstition has established its domi- 
pion, to be administered to such as 
need its wondrous efficacy. Even 
the Abbé Geramb bears testimony to 
its virtues. “ I shall make no remark,” 
he states, “‘ on the virtue of these stones 
or on its causes. I merely affirm, as 
an ascertained fact, that a great num- 
ber of persons obtain from it the effect 
they anticipate.” 

A pleasant ride of 14 hr. brings us 
back to the Holy City. (See Rte. 7.) 


~~ 


212 


ROUTE 10. 


EXCURSION TO ANATHOTH, MICHMASI, 
BETHEL, BETH-HORON, AND MIZPAH. 


HM. 
Jerusalem to Anata, Anatho 1 15 
Jeh’a, Geba .. «2 «2 « 120 
Mukhmis, Michmash .. 0 50 
Site of As ree Sr | 


Rummin, Rimmon .. 1 
Taiyibeh, Ophrah .. 0 
Beitin, Bethel .. .. I 


Beitin, Bethel .. .. 0 50 
Bireh, Beeroth we 0 45 
Ram Allah .. .. 0 20 
Beit Uniah .. .. 0 35 
Beit "Ur, Beth-horon .. 1 30 
E)l-Jib, Gibeon oe ee 2 15 
Neby Samwil, Mizpeh 0 30 
Jerusalem we te we 1 45 

Total ... 12 55 


1 bandits. 


This excursion is one of singular 
interest to the student of Bible history. 
It takes him to the birthplace of Jere- 
miah ; to the sceneof Jonathan’s roman- 
tic adventure with the Philistines; to 
the spot where Jacob dreamt of the 
“ladder” that “reached to heaven,” 
and which he called the “ House of 
God ;” to the battlefield of Gibeon, 
where the sun and moon stood still 
unti] Joshua had completely destroyed 
the allied kings ; and to the great gath- 
ering-place of the Israelites at Mizpeh. 
During the whole tour we are amid 
the mountains and passes of Benjamin, 
and we see at almost every step some 
spot famous in sacred history. Benja- 
min was the frontier tribe, occupying 
the debateable ground between the 
rival families (and afterwards king- 
doms) of Judah and Ephraim. Al[ter- 
nately it appears to have followed the 
fortunes of each. Its situation gave it 
an importance altogether dispropor- 
tioned to the smallness of the tribe. 
Its position, too, was singularly advan- 
tageous for predatory warfare. Con- 
centrated in their mountain fastnesses, 


Route 10.— Excursion to Anathoth, Jc. 


Sect. ITI. 


the Benjamites could easily make a 
descent on the rich plains of Philistia 
on the one side, and of the Jordan on 
the other; while the wild and rugged 
character of the defiles made access to 
their cities and villages almost impos- 
sible. The tribe was proud of having 
given Israel its first king; and Saul 
of Tarsus, a far greater than Saul the 
son of Kish, was conscious of a glow of 
satisfaction when referring to his de- 
scent from the “stock of Israel, and 
the tribe of Benjamin.” (Phil. iii. 5.) 

The excursion will occupy 2 full 
days, and the best arrangement is to 
send tents and necessary e from 
Jerusalem direct to Bireh, where every- 
thing may be ready for the tourist on 
his arrival in the evening from Bethel. 
This gives ample timc to examine the 
country, and all objects of interest 
en route. The road is ly safe, 
though at Mukhmfas and Jeb’a the 
peasants are sometimes a little surly 
in their demands for bakhshish ; and 
the wild ravine between them offers 
some admirable poinis d' for 
A however, is seldom 
necessary; but it is better to employ 
guides from village to village, as they 
are able to give information about 
names and paths of which the ordinary 
dragoman, and even the Jerusalem 
cicerone, will be found entirely ig- 
norant. 

The road to Anathoth strikes out 
from the N.E. corner of the city, passes 
for a short distance along the bank of 
the Kidron, then crosses the valley 
diagonally, and ascends Scopus. From 
the top of this ridge we gain a fine 
view of the city behind us, and our 
first glance at the dreary eastern decli- 
vities of Benjamin in front. The eye 
follows the long white slopes, and 
irregular grey valleys, as they break 
down into the chasm of the Jordan, 
and is then carried up again to the 
level summit of the mountain range 
that runs along the whole eastern hori- 
zon. «A considerable section of our 
route is now in view, and we can dis- 
finguish, far away on the N., the conical 
hill on which stands the village of 
Taiyibeh, the ancient Ophrah, or Eph- 
raim (Josh. xviii. 23; 2 Chron. xiii. 


S. PaLeEstTIneE. 


19). Down ina valley on the rt., about 
1 m. distant, is the little hamlet of 
"Isaéwiyeh, which some suppose to be 
the true Bethany. 

Descending from Scopus, our spoth 
winds through rocky glens, along 
rocky acclivities, and over rocky ridges 


—all bare, and barren, and white. A 
few black ts here and there dot the 
slopes, and the bright barrel of the 


shepherd’s old musket glitters amid 
the cliffs, as be runs down upon the 
strangers, calculating his chances of 
bakhshish. Troops of donkeys, too, are 
sometimes met pattering along the 
tortuous path, their bells awakening the 
echoes of the desert. Now the western 
traveller will see wildy atones {mode 
Oo i ilding-stones e- 
enaalom” whens the limestone of the 
*An&ta quarries is greatly prized. Each 
donkey carries, slung over its back, a 
couple of hewn stones; blocks of a 
larger size, when needed, are poised on 
the pack-saddles of camels. What a 
change from those days of prosperity 
and power, when Solomon laid the 
foundations of his palace and temple 
with “ costly stomes, even great stones ; 
stones of 10 cubits, and stones of 8 
cubits”! (1 Kings vii. 10.) 


Anathoth, now called ‘Andta, is a 
village of some 15 or 20 houses, situated 
on a broad open ridge, and surrounded 
by a few half-tilled fields, with fig and 
olive trees thinly scattered over them. 
Fallen and wretched asa it is, it is not 
without some traces of former strength 
and importance. Portions of a wall 
may be seen, built of e hewn stones, 
and the foundations of some of the 
houses are of similar ancient workman- 
ship; while here and there one meets 
with a fi ent of a column, and a 

ious cistern hewn in the rock. 
he view from it is commanding, em- 
bracing the eastern declivities of Ben- 
jamin, the Jordan valley, a section of 
the Dead Sea, and the long range of 
Gilead and Moab beyond. eee 
over the rugged ridge to the we 
we can just see the top of Tuleil el- 
Fal, where Gibeah of Saul once stood. 
(See Rte. 21.) 
Among the towns that were allotted 


Route 10.— Anathoth. 


213 


to the Levites more than 3000 years 
ago, we find the name Anathoth, in the 
land of Benjamin (Josh. xxi. 18); and 
there cannot be a question that this is 
it on whose site we now stand. But 
this humble hamlet has a prouder title 
to distinction than could be derived 
from mere antiquity ; it was the birth- 
place of one of the greatest prophets 
and sweetest writers who ever blessed 
the earth with his presence. JERE- 
MIAH was “the son of Hilkiah, of the 
priests that were in Anathoth, in the 

d of Benjamin” (Jer. i. 1). He was 
probably of the family of that Abiather 
who followed David in his wanderings, 
was joint high-priest with Zadok during 
the reign of that monarch, and was 
finally exiled by Solomon. to “his 
fields” at Anathoth, on account of a 
rebellious attempt to raise Adonijah to 
the throne (1 Sam. xxii. 20-23 ; 1 Kings 
ii. 26, 35). Here the word of the 
Lord first came to Jeremiah, and here 
he lived till the persecution of his 
family and kindred forced him to flee 
to Jerusalem. Jerome speaks of 
Anathoth as situated 3 m. N. of Jeru- 
salem, and as called in his day after 
the name of ita prophet; but ecclesi- 
astical tradition—which one might be 
safe in considering, so far as Palestine 
topography is concerned, axiomatically 
wrong—has selected for Anathoth an- 
other site at the village of Kuryet el- 
*Enab, 3 hrs, W. of the Holy City. 

It may be well to take a guide from 
this village, for, though Jeb's, the next 
stage, is in sight, the path to it may be 
cally missed ; and, ides, a native 
will be able to tell the names of vil- 
lages in view, and to give other local 
information, which always makes an 
excursion both more pleasant and pro- 

table. 


Descending from Anathoth into a 
deep, bleak valley, we see on a rugged 
hill to the rt. a few ruins called ’Alimit, 
the ancient Alemeth, or Almon, a priests’ 
city of Benjamin (1 Chron. vi. 60; 
Josh. xxi. 18). From hence we ascend 
to the little modern village of Hizmeh, 
placed like Anathoth on the top of a 
broad ridge, and having a few fields, 
thinly sprinkled with figs and olives, 


214 


and thickly with white blocks of lime- 
stone. The uniformity of colour strikes 
the traveller in this region, and gives a 
desolate aspect to the whole scene, 
that becomes painful as one advances. 
Everything is of a dull grayish-white— 
stones, soil, houses, and even the very 
shrubs; while the trees, few and far 
between, and generally ensconced in 
little valleys, afford scarcely any variety. 
It requires no little quickness of vision 
to detect a village from any consider- 
able distance, even though the situation 
may be prominent enough. 


From Hizmeh the path winds down 
the steep shelving bank into Wady 
Farah, here wide and tame, though 
farther eastward one of the wildest 
in the country, affording a fine study 
for the geologist who wishes to examine 
the limestone strata of the Judsan 
mountains, as well as for the artist who 
would see nature in her sternest forms; 
but both artist and geologist will re- 
quire to be on their guard, for the 
inhabitants of Farah are as wild as its 
cliffs. A few years ago a gentleman 
came out here from Jerusalem to 
sketch, but he had not long settled 
himself on a projecting crag when the 
sharp ring of a musket sounded in his 
ear as a bullet glanced off the rock 
beside him. 


Not far from the path in the bottom 
of the valley are a few large rectan- 
gular heaps of rough stones, rudely 
piled together, but dignified by the 
name Kubur el- Amalikah, “the Tombs 
of the Amalekites.” There is nothing 
about them to suggest the idea of 
sepulchral monuments, or even of great 
antiquity. From hence we wind up a 
long slope, bristling with jagged rocks, 
and in about 40 min. from Hizmeh we 
reach Jeb’a. 


Jeb’a, the ancient “GEBA of Benja- 
min,”’ is a small village, amid whose 
half-ruined houses we observe some 
hewn stones which point to other and 
more prosperous days. A fragment of 
@ square tower nearly solid, and a little 
building like a church, stand among 


Route 10.—Jeba.—Pass of Michmash. 


Sect. III. 


the rest, but these are the only remains 
of the ancient Geba. The situation is 
still more commanding than that of 
Anathoth. From the crest of the ridge 
beside the ruins the eye follows the 
ravines that run down on each side 
until they open out on the plain of 
Jericho; and the transparent atmos- 
phere makes the green strip, that marks 
the course of the Jordan away below, 
appear only a few miles distant, though 
in reality 18 or 20. From this spot, 
too, we can study to advantage one or 
two of the most interesting passages in 
the Bible. Before us, on the N., 1s the 
scene of Jonathan’s adventure agai 
the Philistine host. ‘“ Saul, and Jona- 
than his son, and the people that were 
present with them, abode in Geba of Ben- 
jamin” (incorrectly rendered Gibeah 
in the English version) ; “ but the Phi- 
listines encamped in Michmash ”—that 
village amid the rocks on the other 
side of the ravine, little more than a 
mile distant. The “spoilers” went 
out from the Philistines’ camp in 3 
companies. One band “turned into 
the way that leadeth to Ophrah ”— 
situated on yon lofty tell on the north- 
ern horizon, now called Taiyibeh. 
Another band “ turned the wis hag Beth- 

oron,” passing up that rocky ascent 
toward the W. The third struck east- 
ward down the path to the “valley 
of Zeboim,”’ or plain of Jordan. Ali 
were in full view of the Israelites; and 
now, as one reads the graphic story on 
the spot, he almost imagines that he 
sees the predatory bands starting from 
Mukhmis, and radiating along the 
heights to their several destinations. 
(1 Sam. xiii. 15-18.) 

But the enemy are soon after seen to 
remove their camp from the village to 
the “ Pass of Michmash ” (id. xiii. 23), 
that is, 4 m. or so 8.E. to the brow of 
the cliff overhanging the ravine which 
separates Michmash from Geba. 
Saul’s head-quarters are also removed 
from Geba to the pomegranate-tree at 
Migron, “in the uttermost of 
Gibeah ” (id. xiv. 2); thus at once re- 
treating from the Philistines, who 
seemed determined to force the “pass,” 
and getting nearer the high-priest who 
was in Gibeah (id. xiv. 3). The posi- 


S. PALEstIne. 


tion of Migron, “the Precipice,” is not 
known, but it was probably somewhere 
on the bank of Wady Farah. The 
two armies were only separated, as it 
seems, by the ravine then called the 
“Passage of Michmasb,” and now 
Wady Suweinit. Jonathan and his 
armour-bearer resolve to make a secret 


expedition against the enemy; they. 


descend into the valley; they clamber 
up the northern bank “on their hands 
and on their feet;” they suddenly 
appear to the Philistines over the brow 
of the cliff, as if they came forth out 
of the holes where they had hid them- 
selves ; they boldly advance and attack 
the camp, and, aided by a sudden panic, 
and by the simultaneous terror of the 
shock of an earthquake, they succeed 
in dispersing the whole host. Saul’s 
watchmen at once observe the con- 
fusion. While the king consults the 
high-priest, the tumult increases. The 
Israelites take courage and rush upon 
the spoilers of their land. The Phi- 
listines are completely routed, and 
driven westward through the moun- 
tains to Ajalon. (1 Sam. xiv.) From 
that day till the fatal battle of Gilboa, 
in which Saul and Jonathan fell, Israel 
was freed from the inroads of the Phi- 
listines. 

Another passage of God's Word 
ought to be read on this spot. In the 
description of Sennacherib’s advance 
upon Jerusalem, contained in the 10th 
chap. of Isaiah, every step of his ap- 
proach is so graphically portrayed that 
we can from this point follow him with 
our eyes. Itis probably not given by 
the prophet as a narrative of a real 
event, but rather as an allegorical 
warning, yet it is not on this account 
the less graphic. The army is sup- 
posed to leave the great northern road 
near Bethel, and to turn off eastward 
to Ai. Advancing to Michmash, the 
baggage is left there; and the troops, 
thus disencumbered, cross the ravine 
and pass the night at Geba. Ramah, 
situated only half an hour westward, 
though hid by an intervening ridge, 
“is afraid.” Gibeah of Saul, placed 
on the top of yon conspicuous hill, “is 
fled,” for the dreaded foe is in sight. 
In the morning the army continues its 


Route 10.—Michinash. 


215 


march southward. The sites of Gal- 
lim and Laish are now unknown; but 
Anathoth is in the direct line of march 
—“O poor Anathoth!” The evening 
finds them at Nob, within sight of the 
Holy City; and from thence the foe 
“shakes his hand against the daughter 
of Zion.” 

It is thus that modern research 
proves the minute accuracy of Old 
Testament topography ; and it is thus, 
also, that, while we wander through 
Bible lands, Bible history is enacted 
over again before the mind's eye. 


Immediately on leaving Jeb’a we 
descend by a rugged, zigzag track, 
apparently intended only for goats, 
into Wady es-Suweinit— bere tolerably 
wide, though deep and rocky. A few 
hundred yards to the rt. it contracts to 
@ narrow ravine, shut in by high, al- 
most perpendicular cliffs, above which 
the ground on each side is tolerably 
level. This is doubtless the scene of 
Jonathan’s adventure. “And between 
the passages by which Jonathan 
sought to go over into the Philistines’ 
garrison, there was a sharp rock (or 
cliff) on the one side, and a sharp rock 
on the other side; and the name of the 
one was Bozez (‘Shining’), and the 
name of the other Seneh (‘ Thorn’), 
The fore front of the one was situated 
northward over against Michmash, and 
the other southward over against 
Geba.” It was up that northernn cliff 
Jonathan climbed on his hands and 
feet, and it was when he and his ar- 
mour-bearer raised their heads over 
the jagged summit that the Philistines 
said, “Behold the Hebrews come 
forth out of the holes where they had 
hid themselves.” (1 Sam. xiv.) 


MICHMASH, now Mukhmds.—A toil- 
some ride up the steep northern bank 
of the wady brings us to Mukhmas, a 
small wretched hamlet, situated on a 
shelving ridge between two shallow 
wadys that run southward into the 
Suweinit. The country around it 
has a most forbidding aspect. Huge 

y rocks raise up their naked crowns, 
completely hiding every little patch 


216 


of soil; and the grey huts of the vil- 
lage, and the gray ruins that encom- 
pass them, can acarcely be distin- 
guished from the gray rocks. The 
abundance of massive foundations, 
with here and there broken columns 
among them, and of large rock-hewn 
cisterns and ines, show that 
Michmash was a er and stronger 
lace than either Anathoth or Ge 
he town is first mentioned in con- 
nexion with the history of Saul, it and 


Bethel having been isoned by him 
with 2000 men during his war with 
the Philistines. (1 . xiii, 2.) 


When Jonathan drove the enemy 
from Geba, they assembled in such 
force that the Israelites were obliged 
to abandon Michmash (id. xiii. 5) 
and hide themselves in caves and 
thickets, in rocks and high places, 
with which this country abounds. 
How the Philistines were afterwards 
driven out of it has already been 
stated. The place was inhabited after 
the captivity (Neh. xi. 31), and here, 
amid the mountain fastnesses, Jona- 
than Maccabeeus, the second of the 
Asmonean dynasty, resided during the 
stormy period of his reign. (1 Mac. 
ix. 73.) In Eusebius’s time it was 
still a e village; his description 


of ita position, 9 m. N. of Jerusalem, 
near Kamah, agrees exactly with the 
present Mukhmas. 


On leaving Mukbmis our road crosses 
a rocky uneven swell, dotted with the 
dark openings of cisterns and caves; 
and then descends westward to a ra- 
vine, a branch of Wady Suweinit, 
coming down from Deir Duwan. An- 
other ravine, called Wady el-Medineh, 
falls infrom the W.; and between the 
two is a long high ridge, extending 
backward to the plateau E. of Bethel. 
At its base are some quarries and ex- 
cavated sepulchres, and on its summit, 
towards the W., are ruins of consi- 
derable extent; these I visited during 
the present year (1857), and felt per- 
suaded that they were the remains of 
the ancient ; 


Ai—The situation of the ruins 
agrees with the description given in 


Route 10.— Ai, 


Sect. ITI. 


the Bible. (Josh. viii.) On the S. 
side of the ridge is Wady el-Medineh ; 
on the N. is another wady, running 
paraliel to it eastward into the glen 
that crosses at right angles from Deir 
Duwan. On the W., or rather N.W., 
between it and Bethel, is a depression 
or little valley among the rocky 
heights, well fitted for covering an 
ambuscade. The ruins are scattered 
along the narrow rocky summit of the 
ridge for 4 m. or more, and consist of 
heaps of large old stones and heavy 
foundations, intermixed with many 
covered cisterns and a few open reser- 
voirs hewn in the rock. Here and 
there, too, quantities of Mosaic tes- 
sere may be picked up amid the ruins. 
The large village of Deir Duwin is 
about 4 hr. to the N., and a smaller 
one called Burka is about the same 
distance 8. 
Ai is among the most ancient sites 
in Palestine. The second camping- 
und of Abraham, after entering 
anaan, was.on “a mountain on 
the east of Bethel ..... having 
Bethel on the west and Hai(or Ai) 
on the east.” (Gen. xii. 8.) The 
city is chiefly celebrated on account of 
the story of its capture and destruc- 
tion by Joshua. (Josh. viii.) Jericho 
had been taken; and the next im- 
portant point was to gain a footing 
amid the mountain strongholds. Spies 
were sent to examine the defences of 
Ai. Their report was favourable. 
2000 or 3000 men would suffice for 
the expedition ; and it would thus be 
unnecessary for a large army to march 
up through the wild mountain passes. 
3000 were sent, but they were driven 
back from the gates, and some 30 
were slain in the flight. (Josh. vii. 
1-5.) In the second attempt, after 
the Israelites had been reassured by 
the exétution of Achan in the valley 
of Achor, the assault was conducted 
on different principles. An ambush 
was placed at night in the valley to 
the W., while the main body took 
up their position beyond the glen on 
the N. In the moming the latter 
crossed the valley to assault the city; 
but pretending a panic, they suddenly 
retreated again. The stratagem was 


S. PALEstTINe. 


completely successful. The whole 
male population rushed out in pursuit 
of the fugitives the gates were left 
open, and the place was at the mercy 
of the ambuscade. Joshua, from some 
commanding height towards the N., 
gave the preconcerted signal; the 
“ liers in wait’ rushed in amid helpless 
women and children, and the smoke 
of the burning town soon showed the 
success of the enterprise. On _ this 
spot the 8th chapter of Joshua will be 
read with new interest. A heap of 
blackened ruins on the site, and a 
huge caim piled up at its gate over 
the body. of its last king, remained 
long afterwards as the sole memorials 
of Ai. But the town was rebuilt be- 
fore the time of Isaiah, who mentions 
it in connexion with his beautiful de- 
scription of Sennacherib’s advance on 
Jerusalem, above referred to. (Isa. x. 
28.) As late as the 4th century of 
our era the ancient name clung to the 
site, though the town had long pre- 
viously become a ruin. 


From the ruins of Ai to Beitin, the 
ancient Bethel, is ? hr.’s ride, The 
road passes over a ridge, on the top 
of which is a level plateau, stony, but 
still fertile when compared with the 
rocky wilderness around, It was on 
this spot—between “ Bethel and Ai” 
—Abraham encamped, built an altar, 
and “called upon the name of the 
Lord.” (Gen. xii. 8.) And to this 
place he, and Lot his nephew, re- 
turned after their visit to Egypt; and 
here, on account of the strife between 
their herdsmen, and because their 
flocks were so numerous that they 
could not dwell together, they resolved 
to separate. From one of the neigh- 
bouring heights Lot looked down upon 
the plain of Jordan, and chose it for 
his habitation. (Gen, xiii.) The 
country is almost as thinly peopled 
now as it was then; and the black 
tents of the Arabs may often be seen 
pitched on the spot where Abraham's 
tent stood 4000 years ago. The patri- 
arch looked forward in faith, confiding 
in God’s promise, to the time when 
his seed, numerous “as the stars of 
heaven,” should possess the land in 


[Syria and Palestine. | 


Route 10.—Rimmon. 


217 


which he was a stranger. We look 
back through long centuries to the 
time when these promises were ful- 
filled—when David's warlike achieve- 
ments, and Solomon’s wealth and 
wisdom, were the wonders of the 
world ; and we remember that, as God 

romised to give this land to Abra- 

am’s seed, and fulfilled His promise, 
so He threatened to drive them out of 
it, and has fulfilled His threat, 

Towards the southern side of this 
little plateau, not far from the road, 
are the prostrate ruins of a large cb., 
and on its western side, opposite 
Bethel, is another ruin called Burj 
Beitin, “the Tower of Beitin ”—once 
a square fort, including a ch. 


Ftimmon and Ophrahk.—The traveller 
who has time at command may make 
a détour from the ruins of Ai to visit the 
sites of Rimmon and Ophrah, which will 
require at least three hours’ additional 
riding. ‘The white peak of Rummén, 
and the dark cone of Taiyibeh, have 
been in view on the N. from every 
elevated point in our route. <A short 
} hr. brings us to Deir Duwn, a large 
flourishing village, situated in a stony 
but well-cultivated basin, where the 
fig and olive grow luxuriantly. From 
hence to Rummén is scarcely 14 m., 
but it takes a full hour to reach it. 
Between the two lies a ravine, Wady 
el-Muty&h, several hundred feet deep, 
crossed by @ steep, difficult, and in 
places even dangerous path; but the 
view from the top of the “ Rock Rim- 
mon” will amply repay a little extra 
fatigue. The hill on which it stands 
is steep and naked, the white lime- 
stone everywhere projecting; and the 
houses look like huge steps along its 
sides. From the top we look down 
into the ravine, which here assumes 
the name el-’Asas, and farther east- 
ward es-Sik, and finally Na’imeh, under 
which title it falls into the Jordan 
valley a little N. of Jericho. The 
village has an antiquated look, though 
there are few remains of antiquity 
besides a large rock-hewn tank. 

On this rock the 600 Benjamites, the 
only survivers of that powerful tribe, 

14 


218 


: Route 10.— Bethel. 


Sect. ITI. 


took refuge from the just wrath of|this too we may identify the city 


their brethren; and here they lived 
for four long months, till at last the 
Israelites “repented for Benjamin their 
brother.” The particulars of their 
romantic story, as related in the 20th 
and 21st chapters of Judges, will be 
read upon this “ Rock Rimmon” with 
great interest. 


The road from hence to Taiyibeh 
lies across a kind of open plateau fur- 
rowed by shallow wadys running east- 
ward. The rocks are not quite so 
numerous as before, and the patches 
of gray soil are somewhat larger. In 
40 min. the éfell is reached, and in a 
few minutes more we clamber up the 
conical peak on which the village 
stands. On the top are the ruins of 
an ancient tower, from which we look 
down into little fertile vales on the W. 
and N., dotted with groves of olives 
and fig-trees. The whole eastern de- 
clivities of Benjamin are here before 
us, naked and desolate as if the curse 
was upon them. Away below is the 
long, deep valley of the Jordan; be- 
yond it are the mountains of Moab 
and Gilead. On the N.E. a cleft is 
observed in the range, marking the 
course of Wady Zurka, the ancient 
Jabbok, the boundary between the 
kingdoms of Og and Sihon. And 
yonder, too, N. of it, is the ravine of 
Ajlan, in which a clear eye will easily 
distinguish the old fortress of Rubud, 
perched on a lofty crag, far up among 
the hills. Some 10 m. 8.E. of it are 
the ruins of Gerasa, but not visible 
from this place. 


’ This ancient site appears to corre- 
spond with the position of Ophrah, a 
city of Benjamin, to which one band 
of the Philistine spoilers went from 
Michmash, (1 Sam, xiii. 17; and Josh. 
xviii. 23.) It stood, according to 
Jerome, 5 m. E. from Bethel, which 
accords exactly with this place. It is 
also highly probable that the city 
Ephraim, which Abijah king of Judah 
took from Jeroboam (2 Chron. xiii, 
19), was the same as Ophrah — the 
names are radically identical. With 


Ephraim of the New Testament, which 
was “near to the wilderness,” and to 
which Our Lord withdrew with His 
disciples after the raising of Lazarus. . 
(John xi. 54.) Josephus mentions 
Ephraim as one of the towns taken by 
Vespasian. 


Taiyibeh is a Christian village, and 
the region round it exhibits the marks 
of more careful cultivation than is 
usually seen in places exclusively in- 
habited by Muslems. Close by it on 
the 8.E. are the ruins of a small ch. 
dedicated to St. George, which may 
perhaps be as old as the time of the 
crusaders. . 

A smart ride of 1} hr. from Taiyibeh 
brings us back to Beitin. 


BETHEL, now called Beitin, stands 
on the shelving point of a low rocky 
ridge between two converging valleys, 
which unite below it, and run off south- 
ward into Wady Suweinit. The site 
is surrounded by higher ground on 
every side except the S., and yet it is 
so high that from the upper part of it 
the dome of the Great Mosk in Jeru- 
salem can be seen. The ruins of the 
ancient eity cover the whole surface 
of the ridge, and are 3 or 4 acres 
in extent. They consist of founda- 
tions, fragments of walls, and large 
rude heaps of stones. On the highest 
point are the remains of a square 
tower; and towards the S. are the 
walls of a Greek ch., standing within 
the foundations of a much older 
edifice built of large stones. Amid 
the ruins are about a score of low 
huts, rudely formed out of ancient 
materials. In the western valley is a 
huge cistern 314 ft. long by 217, con- 
structed of massive stones. The south- 
ern side is entire, but the others are 
more or less ruinous. The bottom is 
now a beautiful grass-plat, watered by 
two little crystal fountains, from which 
the cattle of Abraham often drank in 
former days, and at which the maidens 
of Sarah were doubtless wont to fill 
their pitchers, just as the Arab 
maidens from the village do still. 


S. PALestTINeE. 


The description of Jerome, joined 
to the similarity of the modern and 
ancient names, leaves no room for 
doubt that this is the Bethel of Scrip- 
ture. He places it 12 Rom. m. N. of 
Jerusalem, on the rt. of the road to 
Shechem. The name Bethel sounds 
in our ears like a household word. 
Near it Abraham pitched his tent, 
attracted by its water and its pastures. 
Here Jacob, when running away from 
his brother Esau, slept, as many an 
Arab sleeps now, on the bare ground, 
with a stone for his pillow. Here he 
dreamt that well-known dream of the 
ladder that reached from earth to 
heaven, on which the angels of God 
ascended and descended ; and here he 
heard those promises which cheered 
him through all the trials of his after 
life: “In thee and in thy SEED shall 
all the families of the earth be blessed. 
And, behold, I am with thee, and will 
keep thee, in all places whither thou 
goest.” On waking, though he saw 
around him the rocky hill-sides, and 
above him the starry sky, yet trem- 
bling and astonished he was forced 
to cry, “How dreadful is this place ; 
this is none other than the. House of 
God!” Such was the origin of the 
name Beth-El, “the House of God ;” 
before that time it had been called Luz. 
The traveller should read as he sits 
amid the ruins, or by the little fountain 
of Bethel, the 28th chap. of Genesis. 

To Bethel Jacob returned after an 
interval of some 30 years, and here 
received a second time the name Je- 
rael, (Gen. xxxv. 6, 10.) Here he 
buried Deborah, Rachel’s nurse, under 
an oak-tree. (Id. xxxv. 8.) Here, too, 
he set up.a pillar of stone in the place 
where God first talked with him, and 
poured a drink offering and oil thereon. 
(Id. 14.) From that rude begin- 
ning grew the sanctuary of Bethel. 
First rose Jacob’s altar; then the town 
became the seat of the assemblies in 
the days of the Judges (1 Sam. vii. 
16); and, finally, when it seemed on 
the point of being superseded for ever 
by the new sanctuary at Jerusalem, 
it assumed a fresh, though evil, cele- 
brity as the Holy Place of the north- 


ern kingdom. 


. Route 10.— Bethel. 


219 


Anciently a royal city of the Cana- 
anites ( Josh. xii. 16), it was assigned 
to Benjamin, and stood close to the 
border of that tribe and Ephraim. 
(Id. xviii. 22.) It was captured, how- 
ever, and occupied by the Ephraimites. 
(Jud. i. 22-26.) On the division of 
the kingdom of Israel, Bethel became 
doubly important; firstas a sanctuary, 
and then as a border fortress; the key, 
in fact, of both kingdoms. Jeroboam 
here built a temple-after the Egyptian 
model, to rival in its splendour that at 
Jerusalem. Here burnt offerings and 
meat-offerings were offered up to the 
Golden Calf; and feast-days and assem- 
blies were held at the idol shrine, with- 
in sight of the Lord’s dwelling-place on 
Moriah. Here on one great festival, 
when Jeroboam stood in his temple in 
the midst of assembled Israel, a prophet 
from Judah suddenly advanced to his 
side and boldly predicted the vengeance 
of the Lord against the idolatrous rites, 
*“O altar, altar, thus saith the Lord: 
Behold a child shall be born unto the: 
house of David, Josiah by name; and 
upon thee shall he offer the priests of 
the high places that burn incense 
upon thee, and men’s bones shall be 
burned upon thee.” And he added, 
“ This is the sign which the Lord hath 
spoken: Behold, the altar shall be 
rent, and the ashes that are upon it 
shall be poured out.” 

The enraged monarch, thus insulted 
in the midst of his people, attempted 
to seize the prophet on the spot; but 
his hand was dried up so that he could 
not pull it in again to him. And no 
sooner had he given the command 
“Lay hold on him,” than the altar 
was rent by his side, and the ashes 
were poured out! (1 Kings xili. 1-5.) 

Though the sanctuary was thus 
cursed, its ancient name attracted to it 
many holy men, who gathered round 
Elijah when he passed through Bethel 
on the day he was taken up to heaven. 
(2 Kings ii. 3.) But the iniquity of 
the place soon became so glaring that 
the name Bethel, House of God,” 
was changed into Beth-aven, ‘“ House 
of Idols.” (Hos. x. 5, 8.) And the 
time soon came round for the fulfil- 
ment of the fearful prediction of the 

L 


220 


rophet of Judah. Josiah, filled with 

oly zeal, visited Bethel. The altar 
and high-place of Jeroboam he brake 
down and stamped small to powder ; 
the grove that had grown up on the 
hill around them for the worship of 
Astarte he burned to the und ; 
and as he turned to leave the spot, he 
saw the sepulchres in the side of the 
hill to the W.—the same perhaps we 
now observe on the to Bireh— 
and he took the bones out of them and 
burned them upon the altar and pol- 
luted it. One tomb alone was spared, 
that in which the bones of the aged 
prophet of Bethel, and his brother and 
victim the man of God from Judab,” 
reposed side by side, (2 Kings xxiii. 
15-20.) It was a sad story, that of 
the prophet from Judah; and it will 
be read at this place with new interest. 
(1 Kings xiii.) 

After the captivity the Benjamites 
again occupied Bethel (Ezr. ii. 28); 
and in the time of the Maccabees it 
was fortified for the king of Syria. 
Though not named in the New Testa- 
ment, it was still a place of importance, 
and was afterwards captured by Ves- 
pasian on his march to Jerusalem. In 
the 4th centy. of our era Bethel. had 
dwindled down to a small village; 
but it must subsequently have revived, 
for the remains of churches and houses 
still existing cannot be much older 
than the time of the Crusades. The 
shapeless ruins scattered over the hill 
are not without their importance even 
yet—they are silent witnesses of the 
truth of Scripture. The prophet Amos 
said 25 centuries ago, “Seek not 
Bethel, nor enter into Gilgal ;. for 
Gilgal shall surely go into captivity, 
and Pathe! shall come to nought.” 
(v. 5. 


On leaving Bethel we ascend a 
bleak rising ground on the W., and soon 
strike one branch of the great northern 
road. We then pass down through a 
little glen, whose rocky sides are dotted 
with tombs, into a broad cultivated 
valley. In some 20 min. there is a 
little fountain on the 1. called "Ain el- 
*Akabah, gushing out at the foot of a 
cliff; and shortly after we notice a 


Route 10.—Beeroth. 


Sect. TIT. 


large cave close on the right, serving 
a8 & reservoir, and apparently supplied 
by a spring within. A ride of 20 min. 
more up the valley brings us to Bireh. 


Beeroth, now called Bireh, is a large 
village containing some 700 or 800 
Muslems, and 3 or 4 Christian families. 
It is situated on the crest of a promi- 
nent rocky ridge, and is thus seen from 
a distance both N.andS8. Many hewn 
stones and solid substructions testify to 
the antiquity of the site; but the only 
building of importance now remaining 
is a fine old Gothic church in the 
centre of the village The walls, the 
eastern apse, and the sacristy are still 
standing. The traveller from the W. 
will look upon this gray ruin with 
something of a home interest, for it 
will remind him alike of the chivalry 
and devotion of his fathers. It was 
built by the Knights Templars, who 
owned the village during the time of 
the Latin kings of Jerusalem. There 
is also a large khan, perhaps origin- 
ally a hospice, on the southern side of 
the village; and in the rocky slopes 
round about are extensive quarries and 
a few rock-tombs. A few hundred 
yds, southward, at the foot of the 
ridge, is an old domed mosk, built over 
a. fine fountain, and a grass-plot beside 
it, making a beautiful camping-ground. 
Here in the mornings and evenings the 
Arab maidens may be seen filling their 
pitchers, and carrying them away on 

ead or shoulder as in ancient days 
Just below the fountain are the remains 
of 2 large ancient cisterns finely con- 
structed of hewn stones; they are now 
converted into little fields. 

Beeroth was one of the 4 cities of 
the crafty Gibeonites, whose curious 
story the name will at once recall. 
We shall read it as we sit beneath the 
shade of the old mosk, fanned by the 
cool breeze that plays round the flow- 
ing waters. (Josh. ix.) After the cap- 
ture of Ai the Gibeonites determined 
to attempt by stratagem what valour 
could not win, “They took old sacks 
upon their asses, and wine-bottles, old, 
and rent, and bound up; and old 
clouted shoes upon their feet, and old 
garments upon them ;” and old bread 


S. PaLestTine. 


dry and mouldy. Thus equipped, the 
self-styled ambassadors went down the 
pass to the Israelitish camp on the plain 
of Jericho. ‘“ Who are ye, and whence 
come ye?” demanded Joshua. “ From 
avery far country are thy servants 
come,” replied the Gibeonites. ‘ Per- 
adventure ye dwell among us,” said 
the doubting Israelites. ‘Look at 
us and judge,’ was the immediate 
answer. “QOur bread we took hot 
from our houses on the day we left 
them; but now see, it is dry and 
mouldy. These wine-bottles were then 
new; now they are rent and patched. 
Our shoes and garments are worn 
out, too, with the very long journey.” 
Joshua was deceived, and so were his 
elders. He made a covenant with 
them, which,notwithstanding their lies, 
was strictly kept; but the Gibeonites 
became hewers of wood and drawers 
of water to the Israelites. The other 
cities included in the league were 
Gibeon (now el-Jib), Kerjath-jearim 
(now Kuryet el-’Enab), and Chep- 
hirah (now Kefir). The crusaders 
considered Bireh to be the site of 
Michmash, 


From Bireh we must make an early 
start, for it is a long round to Beth- 
horon and Jerusalem, 7 hrs. at least ; 
and, besides, the ancient sites in the 
interval must not be hurried over. 
Our path, a mere goat-track windin 
among stony fields, strikes westw: 
over a low broad ridge which forms 
the watershed between the Jordan and 
the Mediterranean. In some 20 min. 
we reach the large Christian village 
of Ram Allah, occupying a command- 
ing position, from which we get a fine 
view westward down the mountain- 
sides of Ephraim and Benjamin, and 
over the broad plain beyond to the 
Mediterranean. We can distinguish 
the white sand-hills along the coast 
S. of Yafa; and a sharp eye may even 
detect the tower of Ramleh amid the 
olive-groves. There is a thrifty look 
in the terraced vineyards, and fig-or- 
chards that surround Ram Allah, and 
in the neat new ch. that stands beside 
it. The houses, too, are substantially 
built and comparatively clean ; so that 


Route 10.—Rém Allah. 


‘Nearer acquaintance. 


221 


one is compelled—contrasting these 
things with the squalor and neglect so 
manifest in Muslem villages—to admit 
that Christianity, even in its lowest 
stage, has a wonderful civilizing influ- 
ence on man, The information col- 
lected here by Dr. Robinson concern- 
ing the exactions of the government 
is most interesting, as showing how 
energetically the Turks labour to crush 
industry. The whole village is the 
property of the Great Mosk, to which 
it pays annually 350 muds (700 bushels 
nearly) of grain. Besides this it pays 
to the government, for every olive-tree, 
from the day it is planted, 14 piastre ; 
for every donkey 10 piastres; for every 
ox, 75 piastres; and for every acre of 
fig-orchard or vineyard 30 piastres! 
Every male inhabitant pays besides 
annually 65 piastres firdeh or capi- 
tation-tax ; and being Christians, thoy 
pay the khardj, from 30 to 60 piastres 
aman, What country could flourish 
with such a tax u industry? A 
single month in Turkey, or in any pro- 
vince of it, would supply Dickens with 
abuses enough to cram his novels dur- 
ing the rest of his life. A single peep 
into the iniquities ofany of the govern- 
ment departments here would make 
him ashamed of such. a creation as the 
“Circumlocution Office;” and if he 
could persuade a solitary Turkish 
Pasha to sit for his moral portrait, we 


.would never hear again of such respect- . 


able characters as Lord Decimus or Mr. 
Tite Barnacle. 


The country visibly improves after 
passing Ram Allah; and when con- 
trasted with the naked wilderness 
eastward, the scenery may be called 
fine. Rocks are not quite so plentiful ; 
cornfields and olive-groves become 
more frequent; a fertile vale on the 
l. affords us a peep inte the green 
plain round Gibeon; while away on 
the rt. the higher hills are partially 
clothed with shrubbery. Beit Unia 
(25 min. from Ram Allah) is now 
before us, perched on the top of a 
hill, and almost encircled with olives. 
It looks gay and picturesque in the 
distance, Put it does not improve on 
The rickety 


222 


houses seem as if they would tumble 
down about our ears as we squeeze 
through the narrow, filthy lanes; and 
one almost trembles for the safety of 
the white-turbaned sheikhs who squat 
lazily on the crazy roofs, stretching 
their necks over their pipes to geta 
look at the strangers. The large 
hewn stones in the walls, and the ex- 
cavations in and around the village, 
show this to be an ancient site, but its 


name and story are unknown. 
On passing through Beit Unia we 


suddenly find ourselves on the brink 
of a deep and wild glen called Wady 
el-Hammim, but why so called it is 
hard to tell, seeing there is neither bath 
nor water in it. Down to the bottom 
we go by a break-neck path, bobbing 
from rock to rock, one’s head usually 
in close proximity to his horse's tail. 
After getting down, the path zigzags, 
now along a torrent-bed filled with 
unusually large stones, now up and 
down each precipitous bank in succes- 
sion, as if in search of some impassable 
spot where it might rest from its toil. 
But the splendour of the scenery soon 
begins to draw attention from the diffi- 
eulties of the way; and, leaving the 
horse to guide himself, the eye instinc- 
tively glances at each new feature the 
winding ravine exhibits. The banks 
rise up several hundred ft. over head— 
here in long steep acclivities, thickly 
clothed: with dwart-oak, hawthorn, and 
a variety of other shrubs, intermingled 
with aromatic herbs and gay wild 
flowers (it was in spring I visited it) ; 
there in gigantic natural terraces, 
formed by long belts of naked cliffs, in 
which the Hmestone strata are laid 
regular as masonry. Occasionally the 
glen expands a little, leaving room for 
a clump of olive-trees ; but it is usually 
so narrow that the winter torrent must 
have difficulty in forcing its way 
through. 


In abbdut 4 hr. from Beit Unia we 
begin to observe extensive ruins—on 
the 1. covering the point of a shelving 
ridge, where a wady falls in from the 
S.E.; and on the rt. extending along 
the steep bank for § m.or more. The 

onsist of fragments of large walls, 


Route 10.—Beth-horon. 


Sect. ITT. 


built of massive stones roughly hewn, 
and evidently of high antiquity. A 
little fountain flows out from the bot- 
tom of the ravine below them: the 
name of the ruins is Beit Sirah, but 
their history is unknown. 

The glen here bends a little to the 
rt., and the path turns up the 1. bank, 
and winds along it amid rocks and 
shrubbery, not rising much, but, as the 
wady descends rapidly, we are soon 
far above its bed. We now see on the 
top of a high hill to the N. a domed 
wely called Abu Zeitén, “the Father 
of Olives;” and in a few min. more 
Beit "Ur comes in view straight before 
us, and almost on a level with our 
path. It is an hour’s ride from the 
ruins of Beit Sirah. 


Beth-horon the Upper, Beit ’Ur el- 
Féka, ia situated on the summit of a 
conical tell on the point of a long 
ridge which extends westward, with a 
gentle descent, from Beit Unia. On 
the N., at a little distance, is the deep 
ravine along which we have come, and 
on the 8. is another equally deep; 
while in front the ridge breaks down 
abruptly into a narrow valley formed 
by the junction of the two. This val- 
ley, now called Merj Ibn ’Omeir, runs 
out westward through the low spurs 
of the hills till it joins the plain of the 
coast. The view gained from the 
terrace of the sheikh’s house, to which 
every traveller should ascend, even 
at the risk of fleas and a bakhshish, is 
of vast extent and singular interest. 
It embraces the western declivities of 
the mountains of Ephraim on the N., 
and those of Benjamin and a part of 
Judah on the 8.; it takes in as much 
as the eye can see of the plains of 
Sharon and Philistia, and of the 
boundless sea beyond. The promi- 
nent towns are Ramleb, in the plain, 
with its orchards and lofty tower; and 
Lydda, now Ludd, a little more to 
the rt. On the N.W., among the 
hills, is an old castle, called Ras 
Kerker, probably the Calcalia of the 
crusaders, to which the renegade 
Ivelin marched after burning Ramleh. 


y | Looking down the rocky declivity at 


our feet, we observe among the rocks, 


S. PALESTINE. 


on a low hill beyond the ravine, the 
little village of Beit "Ur et-Tahta, cor- 
responding to the “ Nether,” as that 
on which we stand does to the “ Upper 
Bethhoron,” of Scripture. On the S. 
of Merj Ibn ’Omeir is a long low ridge, 
and on its side a villager will point 
out to us the little hamlet of Yalo, the 
modern representative of the ancient 
Ajalon. . Among the hills E. of it, 
but not visible from this point, is ano- 
ther place, whose name, Keftr, suggests 
Chephirah, one of the four cities of 
the Gibeonites (Josh. ix.17). Turn- 
ing eastward we have before us a 
stony ridge, spotted with low bushes: 
behind it lie Gibeon and Mizpeh, and 
up it winds the old Roman road lead- 
ing by the former to Jerusalem. 

Beit "Ur is a small village, but it 
has an antiquated aspect owing to the 
numbers of large old stones built -up 
in the walls of its houses, and also to 
its situation, perched like a castle on 
the summit and steep sides of the tell. 
At the foot of the hill on the E. side 
is an ancient reservoir. There is little 
cultivation round it, and indeed the 
steep rocky declivities afford little 
space for it. 

Beth-horon is chiefly celebrated in 
connexion with‘ the Israelites’ great 
victory over the Amorites, and we 
may here study with advantage the 
details of that remarkable battle and 
pursuit, as related in the 10th chap. 
of Joshua. The league had scarcely 
been completed into which the Gi- 
beonites had entrapped Joshua, when 
he was called upon to defend his new 
friends. A powerful alliance was 
formed against them by 5 princes, the 
King of Jerusalem being at their 
head, and the united forces encamped 
before Gibeon, because “ Gibeon was 
a great city, as one of the royal cities, 
and all the men thereof were mighty.” 
Messengers were immediately de- 
spatched to Joshua, who still remained 
at Gilgal, in the valley of the Jordan. 
On hearing the news he made a 
forced march by night up the glens, 
guided by the pale light of an old 
moon; and ere the sun rose over the 
mountains of Moab the Israelites de- 


filed into the open ground round the : 


Route 10.—Beth-horon. 


223 


hill of Gibeon. Their sudden ap- 
pearance, immediately followed by 
their fierce attack, overwhelmed the 
Amorites. They were driven back in 
confusion across the plain, Joshua 
pursued them “along the way that 
goeth wp to Bethhoron.” This was-the 
first stage of the flight—up the gentle 
slope that leads out of the plain of 
Gibeon to the rocky heights east of 
Bethhoron, Here they had out- 
stripped their pursuers; but when 
they were in “ the going down of Beth- 
horon,” — when they were rushing 
down the stony declivities from the 
heights to the village in which we 
stand, and from the village to the 
valley away below us,—“ the Lord cast 
down great stones from heaven upon 
them unto Azekah, and they died; 
they were more which died with hail- 
stones than they whom the children of 
Israel slew with the sword.” The 
Israelitish chief, leading on his troops, 
wearied in body with the long night 
march, but undaunted in spirit, crossed 
the ridge, too, and gained some pro- 
minent peak not far above us, from 
which he saw the vale of Ajalon (now 
the Merj Ibn ’Omeir) expanding from 
the ravines away below him, and un- 
folding itself into the great plain.. 
Below him are the Amorites in wild 
confusion, clambering down rock and 
precipice ; around him are his “ people 
of war;” behind him are the heights 
which just cover Gibeon. But high 
above those heights stood the sun “in 
the midst of heaven;” and in front, 
over the western vale of Ajalon, was 
the faint figure of the crescent moon 
visible above the hailstorm which 
was fast driving up from the sea in the 
valleys below. ‘“ Then spake Joshua 
to the Lord, ... and said in the 
sight of all Israel, ‘Sun, stand thou 
still upon Gibeon; and thou, Moon, in 
the valley of Ajalon!’ And the sun 
stood still and the moon stayed until 
the people had avenged themselves 
upon their enemies.” The Amorites 
were evidently making for their cities, 
Jarmuth, Lachish, and Eglon, far 
away on the plain to the south; and 
though a greater part of the day still 
remained, yet night might come on 


224 


ere the Israelites could overtake them, 
and thus favour their escape—thence 
Joshua’s remarkable prayer and com- 
mand, The Amorites fled down that 
valley beneath us, and then along the 
great plain close to the base of the 
mountains. Jarmuth was the nearest 
city, and toward it the five kings 
ran, turning up the beautiful valley 
of Elah (now Wady es-Sumt). But 
Joshua was close upon them ere they 
could ascend the hill to Jarmuth, and 
they hid themselves in a cave at Mak- 
k in the side of the valley (see 
Rte. 14). The Israelites shut up the 
cave and continued their pursuit until 
“they had made an end of slaying” 
their enemies. From Bethhoron to 
Jarmuth by this route is about 25 
moiles, a distance that could not have 
been accomplished by the wearied 
armies in less than 7 or 8 hours. The 
Israelites encam for the night at 
Makkedah, and there Joshua hanged 
the five kings. The subsequent 
marches and conquests of Joshua, as 
related in this chapter, are referred to 
in Rte. 14. this place. too. “th 

It was at this place, too, “the going 
up of Bethhoron,” that Judas Macoa” 
beeus met the Syrian army with his 
little band of warriors, and drove them 
back with great slaughter into the 
plain below (1 Mic. iii. 18-24). And 
over this pass was carried the Ro- 
man road from @zsarea to Jerusa- 
lem, the traces of which aré still visi- 
ble. Up it Cestius advanced at the 
first approach of the Roman armies to 
the capital of Judea, and down it he 
and his whole force were driven in 
disorder by the insurgent Jews. Thus 
the same spot waa the scene of one of 
the first and one of the last great vic- 
tories that crowned the Jewish arms. 

Both the Bethhorons belonged to 
the tribe of Ephraim (Josh. xxi. 22); 
and the Nether stood on the border. 
The northern bo of Benjamin 
ran ffom Bethel southward to Ataroth 
(perhaps identical with the ruins of 
’Atara, a little to the 8.W. of Bireh); 
thence westward, probably by Beit 
Unia and along the ridge 8. of Wady el- 
Hammam to Bethhoron-the-Nether; 
and then 8. again to Kirjath-jearim 


Route 10.—Gibeon. 


Sect. IIT. 


(Josh. xvi. 1-3; comp. xviii. 12-15). 
Bethhoron-the-Upper was rebuilt and 
fortified by Solomon, doubtless on ac- 
count of its commanding position, and 
because it was the key of the principal 
pass from the sea-coast to Jerusalem 
(2 Ohron. viii. 5). 


On leaving Beit "Ur for El-Jib 
(Gibeon) we follow the line of the 


Roman road up the side of the ridge. 


At this place it is somewhat difficult 


to trace it, owing to the rugged nature 
of the ground, and the immense quan- 
tities of loose fragments of limestone 
that cover the surface. 
village, however, between it and Beit 


Below the 
"Ur et-Tahta, it is very distinct—in 


some places hewn in the solid rock, 
and in others carried down steep de- 
clivities by long flights of stairs. On 
reaching the western summit of the 
ridge, too (about 25 min. above Beit 


Ur); we come upon sections of the 


road nearly perfect, and we can easily 


trace it for 2 m. or more along the 
broad undulating plateau. The ra- 
vine pf Suleiman is some distance on 
the rt., through which the camel-road 
ascends from Ramleh, and beyond it 
are dark hills crowned by 2 or 3 small 
villages. In 14 hr. we reach the east- 
em summit of the ridge, where el-Jib 
in the midst of a fertile plain, and 
Neby Samwil on the top of a hill to 
the rt., at once burst upon the view. 
We can also just see the houses of 
Bethhoron behind us, over the western 
brow of the ridge. From this point 
there is a gentle descent into the plain 
that encircles elJtb; and this is un- 
questionably the “way that goeth up 
to Bethhoron,” along which Joshua 
first pursued the Amorites, as above 
mentioned. Half an hr.’s smart ride 
now brings us to el-Jib, the ancient 


Grsron.—This village stands on the 
top ofa little isolated hill, composed 
of horizontal layers of limestone—here 
and there forming regular steps, in 
some places steep and difficult of ac- 
cess, and everywhere capable of being 
strongly fortified. Round it is spread 
out one of the finest and richest plains 


S. PALESTINE. 


in central Palestine, meadow-like in 
its smoothness and verdure, dotted 
near the village with vineyards and 
olive-groves, and sending out branches, 
like the rays of a starfish, among the 
rocky acclivities that encircle it. The 
houses of el-Jib are scattered irregu- 
larly over the broad summit of the 
hill, whose sides, where not too steep, 
are covered with trees and terraced 
vineyards. They are almost all, in 
whole or in part, ancient, but in a 
sadly dilapidated state. One massive 
building still stands among them, and 
was probably a kind of citadel. The 
lower rooms are. vaulted, the arches 
being semicircular, and of admirable 
workmanship. On the eastern side of 
the hill, at the foot of a low cliff, is a fine 
fountain, springing up in a cave exca- 
vated in the rock so as to form a large 
subterranean reservoir. Not far be- 
low it, among the venerable olive- 
trees, are the remains of an open reser- 
voir, similar to the large one at 
Hebron. 

Such is the site, and such are the 
remains, of the ancient Gzbeon, cele- 
brated in the Old Testmant as “a 
great city, as one of the royal cities ”’ 
(Josh. x. 2), to whose Jurisdiction 
belonged the towns of Beeroth, Chep- 
hirah, and Kirjath-jearim. (1d. ix. 17.) 
Here was planned the clever and ro- 
mantic expedition which beguiled the 
Israelites into a league with the Gi- 
beonites. (See above, under Beeroth.) 
One can fancy, as he sits beneath 
an olive-tree, or beside the fountain, 
and reads the story (Josh. ix.), that 
he sees the wily people collecting 
old tattered raiment and clouted 
shoes, patching up rent wine-skins, 
culling out musty bread, lading their 
purposely jaded animals, and then 
setting out, in the presence of their 
assembled brethren, across the plain 
eastward, fully rigged for deception. 
One can fancy, too, their joyous re- 
turn, and the mortification .of the 
Israelites, when they came to their 
cities and found that the. ambassadors 
“from a very far country ” actually 
dwelt in the heart of their land. 

On this little plain the five kings 
of the Amorites soon afterwards as- 


Route 10.—Mizpeh. 


225 


sembled their forces to punish the 
Gibeonites; and over that broad stony 
ridge on the east the Israelites sud- 
denly rushed upon them with the first 
beams of the morning sun. Gibeon 
fell to the lot of Benjamin, and be- 
came a Levitical city, when its old in- 
habitants were made “hewers of 
wood and drawers of water.” (Josh. 
xxi. 17, and ix. 27.) After the de- 
struction of Nob by command of Saul 
(1 Sam. xxii.), the tabernacle seems to 
have been brought to this place; and 
here, on this little hill, the great altar 
of burnt offering was erected, and 
remained until it found a permanent 
place in the Temple. It was at the 
“Pool of Gibeon,’’ doubtless the re- 
servoir still seen on the eastern slope 
of the hill, that Abner and Joab met 
at the head of the armies of Israel 
and Judah. Before them was enacted 
that bloody tragedy, when, on the 
challenge of Abner, 12 men of Judah 
fought with 12 of Benjamin, and 
the whole 24 were slain, for “they 
caught every one his fellow by the 
head, and thrust his sword in his 
fellow's side, so that they fell down 
together.” And on the plain adjoin- 
ing immediately took place the battle 
which terminated in the total defeat of 
Abner, and the death of the fleet Asa- 
hel (2 Sam ii.). Here, too, at the 
“stone which ig in Gibeon,’ David's 
nephew, Amasa, was treacherously 
murdered by his cousin Joab (id. xx.). 

But Gibeon is chiefly interesting as 
the place where Solomon offered up 
his thousand burnt offerings, and 
where the Lord appeared to him ina 
dream and gave him the desire of his 
heart—“ wisdom and understanding ;”’ 
adding also “riches and honour” 
(1 Kings iii, 4-15). 


Neby Samwil, Mizren.— The hill 
on which the village and mosk of 
Neby Samwil now stand is not only 
the most conspicuous object round el- 
Jib, but also in the whole surrounding 
country. It rises abruptly to a height 
of 500 or 600 feet above the little 
plain of Gibeon ; and its sides, though 


‘here and there broken by cliffs, - 
L3 


226 


almost everywhere cultivated in ter- 
racea, along which the fig and the vine 
grow luxuriantly. Crossing the nar- 
row belt of green plain that separates 
it from el-Jib, we clamber up by a 
steep winding path, and in 4 hr. 
reach the summit. This is the culmi- 
nating point of the whole mountain 
region round the Holy City; and from 
it we gain a wider view than from any 
other peak in southern Palestine. It 
is crowned by a large neglected 
mosk, at whose eastern side a little 
hamlet clusters, The houses, about 
}2 in number, are either ancient or 
composed of ancient materials. Their 
walls are in places formed of the 
living rock hewn into shape; and 
some of the little courts are excavated 
to the depth of several feet. There is 
thus an air of departed greatness and 
high antiquity about the place, which, 
added to its commanding situation, 
gives it an inexpressible charm. No 
excursion in the neighbourhood of 
Jerusalem will more fully repay the 
traveller than that to Neby Samwil. 
Passing through the empty mosk, 
once a Latin ch. of the crusaders’ age, 
we clamber up by broken staircases and 
winding passages to its flat roof, and 
then still farther to the top of the mina- 
ret. Now central Palestine is spread 
out round us like an embossed map. 
On the north, at our feet, is Gibeon 
(el-Jib), encircled by its plain ; away 
beyond it are Ataroth (Atara) and 
Beeroth, and farther still on the ho- 
rizon the dark peak of Ophrah (Tai- 
yibeh). To the right of the latter is 
the rock Rimmon (Rummén), and 
more to the eastward the conical tell 
crowned by the village er-Ram, the 
“ Ramah of Benjamin.” Farther still 
to the right we see the bare top of 
Tuleil el-Fal, on which “Gibeah of 
Saul” once stood. The Jordan valley 
is too deep to be visible, but the moun- 
tains of Moab and Gilead are there, a 
long blue line on the horizon. At our 
feet, on the 8.E., is the glen of 
Wady Hanina; and over the bleak 
grey ridge beyond it are the domes 
and minarets of Jerusalem, looking as 
if sunk in a valley. Farther still, just 
to the right, is the regular cone of the 


Route 10.—NMizpeh. 


Sect. ILI. 


Frank Mountain, and Bethlehem on a 
projecting ridge near it. Southward 
the eye ranges over the summits of 
the Judsan hills, as far as the environs 
of Hebron. On the W., at the base 
of the mountains, is the plain of Phi- 
listia, on which we can distinguish 
Ramleh, Lydda, and even Joppa, 
washed by the waves of the Medi- 
terranean. 

A site so commanding could not 
have been overlooked in the early 
ages of this country’s history, when 
every peak had its city or fortress. 
There is considerable difference of 
opinion, however, as (pits ancientname. 
A tradition as early as the 6th centy. 
makes Neby Samwil the Ramah, or 
Ramathaim-Zophim, of the Old Tes- 
tament, the birth-place, residence, and 
burial-place of the prophet Samuel. 
But a comparison of the statements 
made in Scripture with the topography 
of the country shows this tradition to 
be incorrect. When Saul was in 
search of his father’s asses he visited 
Samuel at Ramah. On his departure 
for Gibeah, his native city, the pro- 
phet anointed him king, and described 
his way home as leading “ by Rachel’s 
sepulchre in the border of Benjamin ” 
(1 Sam. x. 2). Now Gibeah was si- 
tuated on Tuleil el-Fal, only 2} m. 
E. from this spot (Rte. 21), and Ra- 
chel's sepulchre is well known to 
be nearly 7 m. 8S. Hence every 
step Saul would have taken from 
Neby Samwil towards Rachel’s se- 
pulchre would have led him farther 
away from Gibeah. Dr. Robinson has 
brought forward some arguments to 
show that this is most probably the 
Mizpeh of Scripture, which, though 
questioned by later travellers, appear 
to me almost, if not altogether, conclu- 
sive. The name Mizpeh, signifying 
“a place of look-out” or “ watch- 
tower,” is peguliarly applicable to this 
peak, and the position agrees with the 
order in which the towns of Benjamin 
are enumerated. “ Gibeon, and Ramah, 
and Beeroth, and Mizpeh, and Chephi- 
reh,” form the north-western gro 
(Josh. xviii. 25,26). Mizpeh was for- 
tifled by Asa king of Judah, appa- 
rently to protect his northern frontier ; 


S. PAa.estine. 


and the stones employed in its battle- 
ments were carried trom Ramah (of 
Benjamin), which the king of Israel 
had attempted to build (1 Kings xv. 
22). Eusebids places it near Kirjath- 
jearim (Kuryet el--Enab). We thus 
see that Mizpeh occupied a command- 
ing site at or near the northern border 
of the kingdom of Judah, between Ra- 
mah and Kirjath-jearim. Neby Sam- 
wil agrees with all these specifications ; 
and we may, therefore, safely conclude 
that it is the site of Mizpeh. 

It was here, then, on this conspicu- 
ous hill, the whole people of Israel 
assembled, and made a solemn vow 
never to return to their homes until 
they had punished the inhabitants of 
Gibeah for the abominable crime com- 
mitted in that city (Jud.xx.). Here 
they assembled again at the call of Sa- 
muel to fight against the Philistines ; 
and when they had gained a signal vic- 
tory, “Samuel took a stone and set it 
between Mizpeh and Shen, and called 
the name of it Ebenezer, saying, ‘ Hi- 
therto hath the Lord helped us’” 
(1 Sam. vii. 6-12). And here they 
assembled, also, to elect their first 
king ; and when Saul was chosen, the 
loyal exclamation resounded, for the 
first time, through the ranks of Israel, 
“God save the king!” (id. x. 17-24). 
During the Captivity the Chaldean go" 
vernor resided at Mizpeh, and here he 
was assassinated by the Jews (2 Kings 
xxv. 25). The crusaders believed 
Neby Samwil to be the site of Shiloh, 
and erected a convent and church on 
the spot—most probably the same the. 
remains of which are now seen. It 
was here, too, that Richard of Eng- 
land, having advanced from his camp 
at Ajalon, stood in sight of Jerusalem ; 
but, burying his face in his armour, 
uttered the chivalrous exclamation— 
“Ah, Lord God! I pray that I may 
never see thy Holy City, if I may not 
rescue it from the hands of thine ene- 
mies |” 

The road from Neby Samwil to 
Jerusalem winds down the hill-side, 
passing some old cisterns hewn in the 
rock, into the deep glen of Beit Ha- 
nina; so called from a village which 
may be seen on a stony ridge about a: 


Route 11.—Excursion to Solomon’s Pools, &c. 


227 


mile to the 1. On the rt., about the 
same distance, is Beit Iska; and oppo- 
site it on the south side of the Wady 
is Lifta, a small village with a few 
olive-groves round it. Wady Beit 
Hanina is narrow and stony, with steep 
sides; but it is here and there planted 
with vineyards and fig-orchards. At the 
potnt where we cross it are the traces 
of a Roman road running towards Jeru- 
salem, and somewhere near this spot 
tradition has fixed the scene of David's 
conflict with Goliath, making this, of 
course, the valley of Elah. e shall 
afterwards see, however, that the true 
scene of the battle is far distant. (Rte. 
14.) Ascending the south bank in 
the line of the old road, we pass the 
Tombs of the Judges, and soon reach 
Jerusalem, 


ROUTE 11. 


EXCURSION TO SOLOMON’S POOLS, ETHAM, 
KHUREITON, AND THE FRANK MOUX- 
TAIN. 


H. M, 
Jerusalem to Solomon’s Pools. 2 80 
Urtas, Eiham ee 0 20 
Khureitan (cave of) .. .. 1 30 
Jebel Fureidis, Frank Mount 0 380 
Bethlehem oo hee Cel CUdR“( tid 
Jerusalem - « 1 80 


Fast riding without ba ey | 
Total oo ws Bene } 7 85 


This excursion is interesting as 
affording some commanding and near 
views of the “ Wilderness of Judea,” 
where David kept his father’s sheep ere 
the troubles of royalty embittered his 
life. We see, too, some of those “ der- 


228 


and caves of the mountains,” amid 
which he afterwards lurked when Saul 
sought to kill him. It will be as well 
before setting out, or at least on reach- 
ing Urtas, to secure a guide from the 
Ta‘émirah Arabs—not so much for 
the sake of any protection he will be 
able to secure, as for the information 
he can give of the several places in 
view during the excursion. Ht is 
just as well to remember, also, that 
both Khureitfn and the Frank Moun- 
tain are far within the Ta’dmirah ter- 
ritory, and that their ideas of move- 
able property are not always in ac- 
cordance with our notions of strict 
legality. The excursion is made on 
horseback, without any baggage ex- 
cept eatables and a water-skin; and 
as it will occupy a long day, incladi 
sight-seeing, an early start is absolutely 
necessary 80 as to get back to the city 
before sunset, when the gates are 
closed, 

Such as have come with us from 
Hebron have already visited the Pools 
of Solomon, and need not return over 
the same ground, but may proceed 
direct to Urtas, turning to the left off 
the Hebron road, nearly opposite the 
village of Beit Jéla. This saves a use- 
less détour of some # hr. Those, how- 
ever, who have come from the 
or W. to the Holy City, will find an 
account of the road and pools in Rte. 
7; and having examined these remains 
of ancient wealth and enterprise, they 
will ride down the ravine along the 
side of the old aqueduct, and meet us 


in the gardens of Urtés, 1 m. below 
the pools. 


The village of Urtés is situated in 
@ narrow glen, with high shelving 
banks of limestone, naked and broken. 
The bed of the glen—not above 50 or 
60 yds. wide—is now a blooming gar- 
den, well stocked with fruit-trees, and 
plats of luxuriant vegetables and escu- 
lent plants, which show that the indus- 
try of the West has here been grafted 
on the fertility of the East. This great 
improvement has been chiefly effected 
by the labours of Mr. Meshullam, a 
Christian Israelite, who tills a 
of the soil of his fatherland. 


Route 11.—Site of Etham. 


Sect. ITT. 


native village is little better than 
amass of ruins; and the inhabitants 
look as if they had shared in the 
calamity. They are a, kind of semi- 
troglodytes, living half in caves, half 
in sheds,—for houses they cannot be 
called. But there are some remains 
that point to more prosperous ages. 
The massive foundations of a tower ; 
a low wall of hewn stone; rocks exca- 
vated and scarped; and old tomb-like 
grottoes, may be seen in the glen and 
along the precipitous bank. 

Phis is unquestionably the site of 
the Etham or Etam built by Reho- 
boam along with Bethlehem and Te- 
koa. (2 Chron. xi. 6.) According 
to Josephus and the Rabbins it wes 
decorated by Solomon with gardens 


dingy | and: streams of water, and water was 


conveyed from it in an aqueduct to 
Jerusalem. (Ant. viii. 7.) It may be 
doubted whether this is that Liam to 
whose rock Samson retired after re- 
venpinpy the savage cruelty of the Phi- 
listimes in burning his wife and her 
family. Fhere is nothing in the 
story itself: to: indicate the locality of 
Etam ; but it is not likely that Sam- 
son, after making such havoc among 
the Philistines, would take refuge 
in any place near their borders; he 


N. | would naturally flee into the strong- 


est defiles of his own country, such as 
those round this valley. The language 
of Scripture would apply well to this 
wild glen: “ Samson went down into 
the cleft of the cliff Etam.” The Phi- 
listines “went up” and invaded Judah. 
The people of Judah asked them, 
“ Why are ye come up against us?” 
They replied, “'To bind Samson are we 
come up.” Then 3000 men of Judah 
“went down,” and brought him up 
from the cleft, bound with 2 new cords, 
The Philistines had invaded Judah on 
the W., and were encamped around 
Lehi. When Samson was brought to 
Lehi, bound hand and foot, the Philis- 
tines raised a shout of triumph ; but it 
was premature, for “the Spirit of the 
Lord came mightily upon him, and the 
cords that were upon bis arms became 
as flax that was burned with fire. And 


portion | he found a moist jawbone of an ass, 
‘The [and put forth his hand and teok it, and 


S. PALESTINE. 


slew a thousand men therewith.” (Jud. 
xv.) The site of Lehi is not known, 
though a curious tradition has located 
it at or near Beit Jibrin, the ancient 
Eleutheropolis, ; 


Our way to Khureitan leads down 
Wady Urtis. The verdant orchards 
and green fields are soon left be- 
hind : and the stream, too, that flows 
from the fountain amid the ruins of 
Etham is ere long absorbed by the 
thirsty gravelly soil. Rocky banks 
rise steeply from the narrow, dry 
bed, and assume wilder and sterner 
forms every step we advance. In 
about 1 hr.a glen and road from Beth- 
lehem fall in on the}. We soon after 
turn up a 
and then c a shoulder of the 
mountain descend to the ruins of Khu- 
reitfin. 


The Ruins and Cave of Khureitin 
(Adullam ?).—Wady Urtas, at the point 
where we leave it, sweeps round to the 
northward, and then turns suddenly 
southward round the shoulder of the 
mountain we have crossed. Here, 
however, its features are completely 
changed. It resembles a huge fis- 
sure an earthquake has left in the 
mountain ridge; and reminds us of 
the chasm at Mar Saba. The bottom 
is narrow, and encumbered with mas- 
sive fragments of fallen rock; the 
sides are precipitous and jagged, 
scarcely affording footing to the wild 
goats; they rise up 400 or 500 ft., and 
are then rounded off into bleak pla- 
teaus. Inacleft near the top of the 
rt. bank stand the ruins of Khureitfin, 
consisting of the remains of a square 
tower, and some foundations composed 
of large hewn stones. On the same side 
of the ravine, about 100 yds. lower 
down, is the great Cave. The door is 
in the face of a cliff, and the only 
approach is alonga narrow ledge, 
across which a fragment of rock has 
fallen, almost completely barring the 
passage. Clambering over this, at the 
risk of limb, if not of life, we reach 
the low door. On entering, we squeeze 
through a narrow low passage into a 
kind of antechamber—a small irregular 


Route 11.—Khureitin. 


side-Favine to the rt.,: 


229 


grotto, where it may be as well to 
leave all unnecessary raiment, for far- 
ther in the cave is both hot and dusty. 
From hence we advance along a wind- 
ing gallery for some 30 ft. to the great 
chamber, which may be called the 
salon. H is 120 ft. long, and varies 
from 30 to 45 in breadth, with a high 
arched roof of the natural rock. The 
dimensions of this noble room can only 
be seen’ by lighting some2 or 3 dozen 
candles (a store of which should be laid 
in at Jerusalem), and attaching them to 
the walls on each side. The effect is fine 
—almost grand. The sharp projections 
of the sides, and the irregular arches 
and pendants of the roof, faintly seen 
in the dim light, remind one of an 
old Gothic hall, Numbers of narrow 
passages branch off from it in every 
direction ; but all of them soon termi- 
nate with the exception of one. Along 
this we proceed for 30 or 40 yds., lights 
in hand, and then reach the side ofa 
kind of pit or vault, into which we 
must drop toa depth of about 10 ft. 
Passing through this, we enter another 
passage, low, narrow, and dusty, along 
which we first walk, then creep on all 
fours, and finally crawl like serpents, 
where neither walking nor creeping is 
longer practicable. About 70 yds. are 
by these various modes of loco- 
motion, and we then enter another large 
chamber, which appears to be the end 
of the cave ; though the Arabs confi- 
dently affirm that it reaches to Tekoa ; 
some even say to Hebron, but they 
usually append the qualifying phrase, 
by’arif. Here may be seen on 
the white limestone walls the names of 
the few explorers who have ventured 
so far through dust and bats; and 
among the rest that of a young lady, 
the daughter of a gallant Irish Gene- 
ral. I would scarcely recommend 
ladies, however, to attempt such an 
exploit. It is bad enough for men, and 
scarcely repays the toil and inconve- 
nience of wriggling through the dust. 
The great attraction of the cave is the 
hall, in which and the adjoining re- 
cesses there is ample room for several 
hundred men. 
This cavern has been regarded by a 
monastic tradition, reaching back to 


-» §€63Efle'S 


230 


the era of the crusades, as the “cave 
of Adullam,” in which David took 


Route 11.— Frank Mountain. 


Sect. III. 


longed for “the water of the well of 
Bethlehem, which is by the gate;” 


refuge after his romantic adventure at just as many an exiled Arab longs 


Gath (1 Sam. xxii. 1). In a country 
which abounds in caves it is somewhat 
rash to select one without any very 
definite data, and assert it to be that 
referred to in Scripture. There can- 
not be a doubt, however, that this cave, 
so far as its natural features are con- 
cerned, would answer well to the nar- 
rative. It n argued against its 
locality, that there was a town called 
Adullam in the plain near the borders 
of Philistia (Josh. xv. 35); but still 
we are not sure that the cave of Adul- 
lam was near or at the town of Adul- 
lam; and, indeed, it is not very likely 
that David, after he had escaped from 
Gath almost by a miracle, would take 
up his abode so near the Philistines, 
and in the plain, too, where his little 
band of freebooters would be constant- 
ly exposed to the attacks of superior 
numbers. There are other circum- 
stances tending to favour the conclu- 
sion that the cave of Adullam was at 
least somewhere in this mountain 
region. The wilderness of Judah was 
David’s favourite haunt whenever 
danger threatened. While keeping his 
father’s sheep he had become acquaint- 
ed with its wildest glens and most 
secure “holds.” His minute know- 
ledge of the defiles and passes would 
give him the advantage over every 
pursuer, and it would seem from 
the narrative that the cave was not 
very far from Bethlehem, for, when his 
brethren and all his father’s house 
heard that he was there, “they went 
down thither to him.” And then 
“every one that was in distress, and 
every one that was in debt, and every 
one that was discontented, gathered 
themselves unto him; and he became 
a captain over them; and there were 
with him about 400 men.” (1 Sam. xxii. 
1,2.) There has been many a rebel 
chief, within our own day, in Syria, who, 
so far as the character and habits of 
his followers are concerned, bore a close 
resemblance to David. Another inci- 
dent occurred when David was in 
Aduilam which favours the supposition 
that it was near Bethlehem. 


now for the water of his native vil- 
lage. But Bethlehem was garrisoned 
by the Philistines, and the wish of 
David, to all appearance, it was impos- 
sible to gratify. Three of his “mighty 
men,” however, broke through the 
lines of the enemy, drew water from 
the well, and brought it in triumph to 
their chief. If David was within an 
hour or so of Bethlehem, his wish to 
obtain someof its water was natural, and 
the expedition of the 3 men was only 
remarkable for devotion and courage; 
but if he was a long day’s journey off, 
on the borders of the plain of Philistia, 
the wish would by no means seem to 
accord with David's usual prudence. 
(2 Sam. xxiii. 13-17; 1 Chron. xi. 15- 
19.) From the cave of Adullam 
David took his parents across the Jor- 
dan, and placed them in safety with 
his kinsmen the people of Moab. 
(1 Sam. xxii. 3-4.) 

On a subsequent occasion David 
took refuge in the wilderness of Engedi, 
and Saul with 3000 followers went to 
seek him “ among the rocks of the wild 
goats.” David had then also taken up 
his quarters in a cave, not at, but on 
the way to, Engedi. Into it Saul in 
passing chanced to go; and the ro- 
mantic incidents that then occurred 
may at least be studied with some- 
thing like a feeling of reality at the 
mouth of this cavern, looking down 
upon scenery such as nature seems to 
have intended for the home of the out- 
law. (1 Sam. xxiv.) 


Jebel Fureidis, the Frank Mountain, 
Herodium.—Retracing our steps from 
the ruins of Khureitin, we cross Wady 
Urtas, and, ascending for some 20 min. 
the side of the bare white ridge, reach 
the base of the Frank Mountain. The 
whole surrounding country, though 
now completely barren, bears the 
marks of former cultivation. The hill- 
sides are terraced ; and on the plateaus 
along the summits the loose stones 
have been gathered into heaps; but 
centuries of neglect have made the 


He; whole a wilderness, This singular 


S. PALESTINE. 


hill is now known among all the 
natives by the name of Jebel Fureidis, 
“Little Paradise hill”—though it is 
not easy to find out what possible con- 
nexion such a place can have with 
Paradise. Itis a truncated cone about 
400 ft. high, rising abruptly from the 
crest of a rounded ridge. The sides 
are steep and regular, and appear to 
have been smoothed off by the hand 
of man. A path, not very well defin- 
ed, leads diagonally to the summit, 
which is a circle some 750 ft. in cir- 
cumference, surrounded by a ruinous 
wall of large hewn stones, with 4 heavy 
round towers at the cardinal points. 
The middle of this enclosure is 
hollow, and appears to have been ex- 
cavated. The ruins are Roman, and 
were never repaired by the Saracens; 
in fact there is no appearance of the 
place having been occupied since the 
early centuries of our era. At the 
north-western base of the hill are many 
old foundations and heaps of stones and 
rubbish, marking the site of some 
ancient town. A large tract has here 
been levelled into a kind of terrace, in 
the midst of which is a reservoir about 
200 ft. square, having a singular 


mound, like an island, in its centre. | 


Traces of an aqueduct, too, are seen 
coming from the N. 

Such are the remains now visible on 
and beside the Frank Mountain, and 
every visitor will doubtless ask, “ What 
is their name and their story?” The 
name “Frank Mountain” is known 
only to the Franks, and is not older 
than the 15th centy. It was founded 
on a@ tradition then manufactured, that 
this hill was held by the crusaders for 
40 yrs. after the fall of Jerusalem. 
History is silent on the point; the 
place bears no traces of Frank occupa- 
tion, and the position is scarcely one 
which the crusaders would have 
thought it worth while to hold after all 
else was lost. 

It is highly probable, as has been 
stated by Dr. Robinson, “that this 
spot is the site of the fortress and city 
of Herodium, erected by Herod the 
Great. According to Josephus, that 
place was situated about 60 stadia 
from Jerusalem, and not far from 


Route 11.—Frank Mountain. 


231 


Tekoa. Here on a hill of moderate 
height, having the form of a female 
breast, and which he raised still higher, 
or at least fashioned by artificial means, 
Herod erected a fortress, having in it 
royal apartments, of great strength and 
splendour. At the foot of the moun- 
tain he built other palaces for himself 
and his friends; and caused water to 
be brought thither from a distance. 
The whole plain or plateau around 
was also covered with butildings form- 
ing a large city, of which the hill and 
fortress constituted the acropolis.” 
One of the toparchies of Palestine 
afterwards took its name from the 
town. But Herodium is chiefly inter- 
esting as being the place to which the 
body of Herod was brought for burial, 
from Jericho, where he died. Here 
then the passing traveller, and wild 
Bedawy, tread on the dust of the 
Idumean tyrant who saturated the soil 
of Palestine with the blood of his 
victims; and as they stand upon his 
unmarked, unhonoured tomb, they see 
before them that Bethlehem which 
the cruel mandate of the king once 
filled with the lamentations of bereaved 
mothers. 

Some have supposed that this is the 
Beth-haccerem (“the House of the 
Vineyard”) referred to by Jeremiah 
(vi. 3) as a well-known beacon sta- 
tion; but there is nothing to justify 
this supposition except the mere fact 
of the hill’s prominence. It is the 
only eminence in the whole wilder- 
ness of Judah which stands out con- 
spicuously. 

The Frank Mountain commands 
one of the best and most extensive 
views of that wilderness through 
which David wandered like one of its 
own native partridges, and with his 
little band preserved his life and free- 
dom in spite of the mad attempts of 
Saul to kill him. The wilderness is 
as waste, and as wild, and as strong 
in its riatural defences now as it was 
then : it is probably barer, for there 
is not a tree nor a shrub to be seen. 
The men too, who inhabit those black 
tents that here and there dot the 
white hill-sides and gray valleys, in- 
herit much of the spirit of him who 


232 


demanded a present of the churlish 
Nabal. The guide will point out the 


Route 12,— Valley of Roses, 


Sect. ITI. 


This excursion forms an agreeable 
morning’s ride, and may be done on 


ruins of Tekoa, the birthplace of good horses in 6 h., including stop- 


Amos, crow a ridge some 2 m. 
distant on the SW. ; and from thence 
the eye wanders down through barren 
hilla, and barren ravines, to where 
the breaks in the cliffs of Engedi re- 
veal patches of the Dead Sea; and 
then up again to the great wall of the 
Moab mountains—the uniform back- 
ground to évery eastern view from 
among the Judsan hills, 


Our road to Bethlehem leads us 
through the little village of Beit 
Ta'mr, situated on a projecting ridge 
amid white bare rocks, Its most 
striking features are ruined houses 
and armed men. It seems to be oc- 
cupied by a few families of the Ta’a- 
mirah, who are too poor to possess the 
luxury of a tent. Next we dive down 
into a rugged glen, named after the 
same tribe ; and from it ascend through 
terraced vineyards to Bethlehem, and 
gallop back in the cool of the evening 
to Jerusalem. (For Bethlehem see 
Rte. 9.) 


ROUTE 12. 


EXCURSION TO THE VALLEY OF ROSES, 
PHILIP’S FOUNTAIN, AND BITTiR. 


H. M. 

Jerusalem to Convent of the " 
Cross .. e+ «se ef 0« OO 20 
*Ain YAlo re a 0 19 

"Ain Haniyeh, Philip’s Foun- 

tain ee ee ee ee ee 0 25 
Bittir rm ) ee @e @e ee 0 40 
Total .. 2. 20 


RErTorn., 


Via Wady Bittirand Beit Jala 3 0 
Via ’Ain Karim, St. John’s .. 2 30 


pages. Starting from the Yifa Gate, 
we cross the low stony ridge to the 
“Convent of the Cross,” a full descrip- 
tion of which is given above under 
Jerusalem. (§ 61.) We hence proceed 
down a shallow, bleak wady, which 
the Greeks are fast filling with vines 
and mulberries, and in + h. reach the 
entrance of Wady el-Werd, “the Val- 
ley of Roses ’’—so called from its ex- 
tensive rose-gardens, cultivated to 
make rose-water, which is much used 
for sherbets. The bottom of the glen 
is covered with rose-bushes for 1 m. 
or more; and to these succeed olive- 
Proves and vineyards, and then little 
patches of corn-fields. The whole has 
a thrifty look; but the sides of the 
glen and the hills around want fea- 
tures. On entering Wady el-Werd we 
see the little village of Malihah up 
on the rt.; and in 20 min. more we 
reach ‘Ain Yalo, a small fountain with 
a heap of ruins in front of it—perhaps 
an old chapel. We are now upon the 
ancient road to Gaza, down which the 
Ethiopian eunuch drove in his cha- 
riot, thinking of all he had seen and 
heard at the Holy City. The road 
must have been better then than it is 
now. 


*Ain Haniyeh, Philip's Fountatn (?). 
—The glen becomes wilder and deeper 
as we advance; and the limestone 
strata on each side assume the form 
of regular terraces, on which here and 
there are little strips of grain. In 
25 min. we reach ‘Ain Haniyeh, a 
picturesque fountain gushing out from 


‘| @ semicircular apse, on the side of the 


road, ornamented with pilasters. In 
front of it are some heaps of hewn 
stones, with a large fragment of a 
column; while a little to the N. are 
four or five small shafts in a field, 
standing all alone. A late tradition 
makes this the fountain where Philip 
baptized the Ethiopian eunuch, and 
accordingly the Latin monks look on 
it as sacred; but another tradition as 
early as the time of Eusebius makes 
the fountain of Beth-Sfr, on the road 


S. PA.sEsTINE, 


to Hebron (Rte. 7), the scene of that 
event, while the words of Scripture 
would seem to imply that it took place 
on the plain of Phitistia, somewhere 
near Gaza: “The angel of the Lord 
spake unto Philip, saying, ‘ Arise, and 
2&0 toward the south, unto the way that 
goeth down from Jerusalem to Gaza, 
which ia desert,’”’ And after the bap- 
tism Philip “was found at Azotus ” 
or Ashdod, on the plain near the sea- 
coast. (Acts viii. 26-40.) 


Biitir, Bether (?).—Soon after leav- 
ing ’Ain Hanfyeh we come in sight of 
Bittir, a village perched on a 
rocky terrace on the southern side of 
a ravine of the same name, which 
comes in from the E. and runs off 
westward, Wady el-Werd falling into 
it just opposite the village. @ si- 
tuation of Bittir is commanding and 
wild ; and on riding up to it through 
groves of olives we find the people as 
wild-looking as the scenery. They 
are scantily clothed, but profusely 
armed : guns, pistols, and huge dag- 
gers grace the shoulders and belts of 
men, and even boys who seem scarce- 
ly able to carry them; while the 
scowling looks and rude manners-give 
one the impression that small provo- 
cation would tempt them to use their 
weapons. The houses have a crazy, 
shattered look; and seem principally 
composed of ancient materials. On 
passing through the village we ob- 
serve some curious excavations round 
the fountain; and a tablet in the face 
of a rock bears an illegible Greek. in- 
scription. About 4 m. to the westward 
is a singular conical hill called Khir- 
bet el-Yehud, “the Jewish ruins,” 
in part artificial, An old roady now 
dreadfully out of repair, leads up 
to it. Ascending by this, we reach 
first a low neck of rock connectin 
the hill with the main ridge; a 
crossing it, we clamber up the stee 
slope to the summit of the hill itself. 
It was a position of great strength in 
former days. The rocky sides all 
round it have been scarped; the nar- 
row neck has been cut through, thus 
completely isolating it; and the whole 
summit, about 6 acres in extent, 


Route 1 2.— Bittir. 


233 


though cultivated} in terraces and 
patches, is encumbered with immense 

eaps of stones, and here and there 
are seen the remains of buildings and 
of the exterior walls, 

The name, and the strength of the 
position, would seem to identify this 
site with the ancient city of Bether, 
where the Jews, under the celebrated 
leader Bar-Cochba, “Son of a Star,” 
made their last stand against the Ro- 
mans in the time of the emperor Ha- 
drian (4.D, 135). Our only informe: 
tion as to the situation of that city is 
the incidental remark of Eusebius 
that it was not far from Jerusalem ; 
but whether N., §., E., or W. does not 
appear. The descriptions in Jewish 
writers both of the city and siege are 
as usual greatly exaggerated. It con- 
tained they say, 400 gues; in 
each 400 teachers; and in the small- 
est 400 scholars. The siege lasted 
33 years; and on the capture of the 
city 800,000 persons were slain; the 
horses waded up to their bridles in 
blood; and the rivers of blood along 
the street were so strong as to carry 
away stones of 4 pounds weight ! Thou- 
sands of Jews, besides, were taken 
captive, and sold as slaves under the 
oak of Mamre. (Rte. 7.) 


In returning to Jerusalem we may 
either ride up Wady Bittir and over 
the hill to Beit Jfla, and thence by 
Rachel’s Tomb—about 3 h.; or we 
may go by the little village of Wel- 
get, on e N., to ’Ain Kfrim, and 

erusalem—about 23 h. fast riding. 


"Ain Kérim is a flourishing village, 
ituated on the 1. bank of Wady Beit 

nina. In the midst of it, on a kind 
of platform, stands the Franciscan Con- 
vent of St. John in the Desert. The 
church is large and handsome, and 
includes the site of the house of Za- 
charias, where St. John Baptist was 
born. It is in a kind of grotto, like 
all the other holy places; and is pro- 
fusely ornamented with marble, bas- 
reliefs, and paintings. In the centre 
of the pavement is a slab with the in- 
scription— 
Hic PR2cURSOR DOMINI NATUS EST, 


Ph ON 


@ 


234 


About 1 m. distant is the place 
known to the Latins by the name of 
the Visitation. It is situated on the 
slope of a hill, where Zacharias had 
a country house. Tradition says that 
the Virgin Mary on her visit first went 
to Elizabeth’s village residence, but, 
not finding her there, proceeded to 
that in the country, where accordingly 
took place the interview related in 
Luke i. 39-55. The spot is marked 
by the ruins of a chapel, said to have 
been built by Helena. About 1 m. 
farther is the grotto of St. John, con- 
taining a little fountain, beside which 
the place is shown where he was ac- 
customed to rest | 
- "Ain Karim is doubtless the Karem 
in the interpolated verse of the Sep- 
tuagint. (Josh, xv. 59.) It is also re- 
ferred to by Jerome. Eleven names 
of towns are there mentioned as be- 
longing to the tribe of Judah which 
are not found in the Hebrew; and 
among them is Bether. 


ROUTE 13. 


EXCURSION ALONG THE WESTERN SHORE 
OF THE DEAD SEA. 


HM. 

Jerusalem to Tekf’a, Tekoa.. 4 0O 
Bereikftt, Berachah eo ot O 45 
Khulil, HEBRON... -- 4 O 
Kurmul, Carmel .2 «2 «2 2 40 
Jebel Usdum .. .. 1. » ll O 
Masada (Sebbeh).. .. .. 5 10 
"Ain Jidy, Engedi .. e. 4 50 
"Ain Terfbeh.. -.. we .. 6 QO 
"Ain el-Feshkhah .. .. .. 4 20 
Mar Saba oo 02 ec we 4 30 
J erusalem ee ee - 2 30 
Total ..49 45 


Route 13.—Coast of Dead Sea. 


| 
| 


Sect. ITI. 


This is an excursion particularly in- 
teresting to the geologist. It will af- 
ford him an opportunity of studying 
the formation of the whole western 
shore of this wondrous lake, from the 


| galt mountains of Usdum to the al- 


luvial plain of Jericho. It is scarcely 
too much to say that no spot in the 
world is more deserving of the careful 
examination of scientific men; and 
yet scarcely any spot within reach of 
civilization has been more neglected. 
With the exception of the superficial 
and hurried survey of Dr. Anderson, 

iven in Lieutenant Lynch's ‘Official 

eport’ to the United States Govern- 
ment, no strictly geological tour has 
ever been attempted in this region. 
It would surely be a matter of no little 
scientific interest to ascertain fully 
what traces of recent volcanic action 
exist along the Dead Sea coast, and 
whether these seem sufficient to war- 
rant the supposition already advanced 
(Rte. 9), that the overthrow of the 
“ Cities of the Plain,” and the enlarge- 
ment of the lake, were accompanied 
or accomplished by an earthquake, 
And it would be scarcely less inte- 
resting if the researches of some ac- 
complished geologist should throw 
light upon the origin or cause of the 
remarkable depression of the whole 
Jordan valley, and inform the world 
whether, as I suppose, it is coeval in 
its physical history with the formation 
of the mountain ranges of Palestine. 
A careful examination of the cliffs 
and ravines on the borders of the sea 
and valley; of the altitudes of the 
former; of the character of the latter 
—whether deeply furrowed and run- 
ning far up into the mountains, or com- 
paratively shallow and breaking down 
suddenly into the great chasm in @ se- 
ries of abrupt precipices;—all these 
things would be important accessions 
to geological science, 

But independent of geology this 
tour has many attractions. It affords 
a full view of the most remarkable 
lake in the world, ep of the scene 
of the most si i of divine 
wrath in the sed history. It has 
attractions for the lover of natural 
scenery, who would contemplate na- 


S. PALESTINE. 


Route 13.—Tekoa. 


235 


ture in its wildest and sternest forms ; | other tribes, he must leave the Be- 
it has attractions for the student of | dawin to settle it among themselves, 


Jewish history, for we scale the 
“rocks of the wild goats” among 
which David wandered at Engedi, 
and the still loftier cliff of Masada, 
where was enacted the last fearful 
scene of the great Jewish tragedy ; 
and it has attractions, too, for the ad- 
venturous traveller who would en- 
counter the Bedawin in their wilder- 
ness homes, and who would share 
their toils, their privations, and some- 
thing of their dangers. 

The whole tour if well arranged 
and conducted need only occupy siz 
days. The road however is bad, ac- 
cidents to baggage-animals may occur, 
and some points may require close 
inspection, so that it may be as well 
to allow a margin of two or three days 
more. An escort is indispensable, for 
the Bedawin permit no stranger to 
traverse their territory who has not 
first secured by a, subsidy the protec- 
tion of their chiefs. The escort may 
be obtained at the camp of the Jeha- 
lin, generally stationed 2 or 3h. 8.E. 
of Hebron, in the neighbourhood of 
Kiirmiil or Main. It is better to go 
there directly, and to make the agree- 
ment on the spot with the noted Def’a 
Allah, better known as Abu Dahik, 
—the original source of so many of 
De Saulcy’s discoveries, and chief 
sheikh of the Jehélin. The amount 
to be paid will depend on the number 
of the party, the temper the sheikh 
happens to be in, and the character 
of the dragoman. From 500 to 1000 
piastres ought to be enough, though, 
of course, four or five times that sum 
will be demanded. It should be ex- 
pressly understood that the amount 
agreed upon, whatever it may be, co- 
vers ali expenses for guards and guides 
along the whole coast of the Dead 
Sea, and up to Jerusalem; and to se- 
cure this, let at least one haif of the 
money be retained until the comple- 
tion of the tour. The traveller ought 
first to ascertain through the consul at 
Jerusalem whether the Jehalin have 
power to conduct him along the whole 
proposed route; and if any difficulty 
afterwards arises between them and 


and simply insist on the fulfilment of 
his contract..... This journey ought 
not to be undertaken after the Ist of 
May, or before the middle of Oc- 
tober, except the season be unusually 
cool. 

The first stage is Hebron, and such 
as have not yet visited that place will 
take the direct road described in 
Rte. 7. I may also here observe that 
those who make this long excursion 
may visit at the same time the Jordan 
and Jericho, and thus accomplish all 
aimed at in Rte. 9. For the sake of 
travellers who have already traversed 
the ordinary Hebron road in their 
way from the desert, we shall now go 
by Tekoa. 

We proceed first to Bethlehem (see 
Rtes. 7 and 9), and thence take the 
rough path across Wadys Ta’aémirah 
and Urtas (Rte. 11) to 


Teki’a, the ancient Trexos.—The 
ruins of this old city are situated on 
the broad rounded summit of a ridge, 
and cover a space of 4 or 5 acres, 
They consist chiefly of the founda- 
tions of houses constructed of large 
hewn stones, some of them bevelled 
in the Jewish style. At the N.E. are 
the remains of a square tower, occu- 
pying a very commanding position ; 
and near the middle of the site are 
the ruins of a Greek church, with 
several broken columns and a bap- 
tismal font of rose-coloured limestone. 
There are also many cisterns exca- 
Yated in the rock, and not far off is a 
spring of water—a notable feature in 
this thirsty region. The high situa- 
tion of Tekoa affords a wide view over 
the wilderness of Judea. Close on 
the N. is the ravine of Urt4s, and its 
continuation Khureitéin, cutting deeply 
through the hills down to the Dead 
Sea; on the 8S. is another ravine, 
equally deep and wild, called Wady 
Jehar; and through the openings they 
make in the distant cliffs we obtain 
glimpses of the sea itself. 

Here then we have all that remains 
—shapeless, deserted ruins—of the 


a p,.. 


236 


Tekoa of the Old Testament, from 
whence Joab called the “wise wo- 


Route 18.— Valley of Berachah. 


| 


Sect. IIT. 


of a valley of the same name, which 
falls into Wady Jehfr farther east- 


man” to plead with David on behalf, ward. The ruins cover a small emi- 


of Absalom. (2 Sam. xiv. 1-20.) It 
was subsequently rebuilt or fortified 
by Rehoboam along with Bethlehem 
and Etam. (2 Chron. xi. 6.) But 
Tekoa is chiefly interesting as the 
home of the prophet Amos, Among 
the mountains and glens now round 
us Amos kept his sheep, and gathered 
wild fruit, until the Lord called him 
to a nobler office—to preach to sinful 
Israel] judgment and mercy. Amos 
has written, “ I was no prophet, neither 
was I a prophet's son; but I was an 
herdman (of Tekoa), and a gatherer 
of wild figs: and the Lord took me 
as 1 followed the flock, and the Lord 
said unto me, ‘Go, prophesy unto my 
people Israel.’” (Amos i. 1, vii. 14, 
15.) The identity of the site is suf 
ficiently established by the name, and 
the statement of Jerome that it was 
situated 6 m. from Bethlehem towards 
the 8. In the beginning of the 6th 
centy. the saintly Sabas, the founder 
of the convent that still bears his 
hame, established here a new convent, 
which, soon after his death, became 
the scene of flerce contentions between 
the Monophysites and the Orthodox. 
In the time of the crusades Tekoa 
was inhabited by a large Christian 
population, who afforded considerable 
assistance to the Franks during the 
first siege of Jerusalem; and the place 
was afterwards assigned by king Fuleo 
to the canons of the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre. In the year 1138 
the village was sacked by a party of 
Turks from beyond the Jordan; but 
the inhabitants had mostly taken re- 
fuge in the great cave of Khureitfn. 
(Rte. 11.) Since that time Tekoa has 
been uninhabited. 


The direct road from Tekoa to 
Hebron takes about 3} h. smart rid- 
ing. The scenery of some of the glens 
is exceedingly fine, but there is no- 
thing of any antiquarian or historic 
interest. We may, therefore, turn 
westward across the table-land, and a 
hilly region, for 2 m., to the ruins of 
Beretkut, situated on the western side 


nence and are 3 or 4 acres in extent. 
They are almost all completely pros- 
trate, but they bear the marks of great 
antiquity. n the §. side are the 
remains of a strong building of large 
bevelled stones; and among the ruins 
are some 8 or 10 cisterns hewn in the 
rock. The valley beneath is broad 
and open. 

There can scarcely be a doubt that 
this is the “ Valley of Berachah,” the 
seene of one of the most remarkable 
incidents in Jewish history. In the 
days of king Jehoshaphat the Moab- 
ites, Ammonites, and other tribes 
from beyond the Jordan assembled 
their forces at Engedi to attack Jeru- 
salem. Ali Israel trembled; but Je- 
hoshaphat prayed to that God who 
had Telivered his people in former 
days. His prayer was heard and 
answered. He was ordered to lead 
his forces out against the enemy ; and 
was encouraged by these remarkable 
words, “ Ye shall not need to fight in 
this battle; set yourselves, stand ye 
still and see the salvation of the 
Lord.” The Israelites marched, strong 
in faith, to the “ wilderness of Tekoa.” 
When they reached “ the watch-tower 
in the wilderness,” doubtless situated 
on some of these neighbouring emi- 
nences, “they looked upon the multi- 
tude of their enemies, and behold they 
were dead bodies fallen to the earth.” 
God had stirred up strife among 
them; so that:the Moabites and Am- 
monites first slaughtered the other 
allies, and then in true Arab style 
turned against each other. Not a man 
escaped. Jehoshaphat, according to 
the custom of the times—a custom too 
closely followed by Bedawin now— 
plundered and stripped the slsin. 
Three days were occupied in gather- 
ing the vast spoils ; “ and on the fourth 
day they assembled themselves in the 
valley of Berachah (‘Blessing’); for 
there they blessed the Lord; there- 
fore the name of the same place was 
called, ‘the Valley of Berachah’ unto 
this day.” And the name still clings 
to it in our day—a standing testimony 


S. PAeEstTine. 


to the truth of Scripture, and a living 
memorial of the goodness and power 
of God. (2 Chron. xx. 1-30.) 

About + h. S.W. of Bureikét we 
strike the great road from Jerusalem 
to Hebron. (See Rte. 7. 

HEBRON is described in Rte. 6. 


The next stage is Ktirmtl—about 
2 h. 40 min. on horses—near which is 
the camp of the Jehflin ; the fountain 
of Kurmul being the only living water 
in their territory. After spending the 
first night at Hebron it is well to 
make an early start for the camp, in 
order if possible to conclude a bargain 
with the chief before the following 
morning. These bargain-makings with 
the Bedawin are tedious operations, 
and sadly try the patience of the tra- 
veller. It is in vain to think of con- 
cluding them in } h.: coffee must be 

; pipes smoked; feints of de 
parture made; and 50 ultimatums de-~ 
clared with tremendous energy. By 
tact and firmness a bargain may be 
concluded in an afternoon and night. 

The country round Kirmil, and 
the road thence to Jebel Usdum, are 
described in Rte. 4. 


The next stage isa long one; from 
Kirmiill to Wady Zuweireh being 
nearly 11 h. for horses. There is wa- 
ter near the place where we emerge 
from the ravine of Zuweireh on the 
shore of the lake, and here it may be 
as well to encamp. The spot chosen 
by Dr. Robinson is excellent for this 
purpose—it was a narrow wild side 
glen, called Nejd, about 20 min. from 
the mouth of Wady Zuweireh, where 
no wandering robbers could see the 
camp fires. The range of salt hills, 
called Jebel Usdwm, extends away on 
the rt. from the mouth of the wady, 
leaving between their base and the 
sea a narrow strip of plain, covered 
with shrubs of the acacia and ta- 
marisk. “At the northern base of this 
ridge M. de Saulcy made one of his 
most wonderful discoveries, thanks to 
the antiquarian lore of Abu Dahfk, 
the Jehflin sheikh. Here in fact he 
found the remains of the long-lost 
Sopom, which most people before his 


Route 13,— Coast of Dead Sea, 


237 


time believed to be buried beneath 
the waves of the Dead Sea. The tra- 
veller will doubtless wish to take a 
glance at them, just to satisfy his own 
eyes. He will see the high cliffs of 
the salt hills, and the large boulders 
that have fallen down from them; and 
the rocky beds of the little water- 
courses; but anything like ruins he 
will search for in vain—they only 
exist in the fertile imagination of the 
Frenchman ! 

In Wady Zuweireh M. de Saulcy 
thinks he has identified the Zoar of 
Scripture ; that “little ” city to which 
Lot fled from Sodom ; but the Hebrew 
and Arabic names Zuweireh and Zoar 
have no analogy, however they may 
resemble each other in English. For 
the site of Zoar see Rte. 4. 


Our path now lies along the coast 
northward, between the cliffs and th 
sea. About 1 m. from the mouth o 
Wady Zuweireh we observe a loft 
ragged peak on the left, which both 
De Saulcy and Van de Velde repre- 
sent as an extinct crater. Neither of 
these gentlemen, however, is very 
clear or definite in his description. 
The latter, who approached it along 
the top of the cliffs, says, “ Perpen- 
dicular walls of rock, yellow, y; 
and white, a medley of soft ¢ or 
calcareous earth with all sorts of vol- 
canic substances intermingled (!), are 
heaped up, one above another, all 
round the abyss.” The former, who 
saw it from the coast, observes, ‘“‘ We 
discover, 500 yards off, the vertical 
steep of an immense crater, encum- 
bered with huge heaps of sand.” One 
is inclined to doubt whether there be 
a crater here at all; but, still, it is 
worthy of the attention of the geolo- 


gist. 


4h, farther, near a ravine called 
Nejd, De Saulcy speaks of a “ lava- 
stream ;”’ though none of these phe- 
nomena were noticed by Dr. Ander- 
son. In 40 min. more we reach the 
opening of a deep and wild ravine 
called Wady Mubughghik, the “ Em- 
berrheg” of De Saulcy. The cliffs 
are here more than 1000 ft. high ; and 


238 


the ravines that open into the valley 
are deeply cut into them, their sides 
being ost pe 


yards up the w 
phonous name, on the 8. bank, is a 
fountain of good water. It is a wildly 
romantic spot, verdant with reeds and 
acacias, and shut in by high cliffs. 
Were it not for the myriads of mus- 

uitoes, and other insects and rep 
tiles that swarm about it, it might 
make an agreeable camping-ground ; 


but the hardy traveller who pitches 
here, if he would sleep any, better 
speedily set up his “ Levinge.” The 


ruins of a little square tower on the 
top of a hillock, and of an aqueduct 
near it, may still be traced. De 
Saulcy identifies these as the remains 
of the ancient Thamara; “evident 
signs of which primitive appellation ” 
he discovers in; the present name 
Mubughghik—a veritable philological 
triumph ! 


3 hr. N. of these ruins there is, ac- 
cording to De Saulcy, another “ bed 
of lava, coming from the west, and re- 
sembling a hollow filled with melted 
iron, formed of concentric layers,” I 
may here observe that Dr. Anderson 

es no mention whatever of this 
fact. He describes the cliffs along the 
whole western coast of the sea as of 
limestone, “ changing only in the com- 
paratively unimportant particular of 
colour,” varying from red to bluish 
gray. The débris, too, along the beach, 
he observes, consista of “ lime shale,”’ 
with here and there a few bits of bitu- 
men, sulphur, and porous black pu- 
mice—the latter carried down by the 
water from the igneous district on the 
N.E. coast. (For a connected sum- 
mary of the geological features of 
the Dead Sea, see above, Rte. 9.) I 
refer to these discordant notices in 
this place, to draw the attention of 
scientific travellers to the subject. 
From hence to Sebbeh is 3 hrs. 10 min. 
The road lies near the shore, along the 
strip of comparatively level ground be- 
tween it and the cliffs. It is here and 
there intersected by ravines, but pre- 
sents no serious difficulty to those ac- 
customed to the paths of Palestine, 


Route 1 38.— Masada. 


| 


Sect. TIL 


MASADA, now called Sebbeh, is situ- 
ated on a rock from 1200 to 1500 ft. 


orpendicular. A few/in height, separated from the ad- 
y ing this eu- | joining range of mountains by deep 


ravines on the N. and S8., and only 
atiached to them on the W. by a nar- 
row neck about two-thirds of its height. 
It projects considerably beyond the 
line of cliffs, which it also overtops, 
so that its boldness and grandeur 
are enhanced by its being in a great 
measure insulated. On the sea-side it 
rises in some places perpendicularly 
to the height of 600 or 700 ft.; and in 
others, where the ascent is more gra- 
dual, access to the summit is cut off 
by belts of naked cliff from 20 to 100 


ft. high. The top is slightly pyramid- 
al, and looks as if it had been scarped 
to render it more inaccessible. The 
rock is separated from the sea by a 
delta of sand and detritus upwards of 
2m.wide. The ruins which crown it 
were seen by Dr. Robinson from the 
cliffs of Engedi, and afterwards identi- 
fied by him with the ancient Masada. 
The story of this desert fortress will be 
best told amid the ruins on its summit, 
where the scene of every act in the 
tragedy is before our eyes. 

The ascent of Sebbeh can be made 
in about  h. from the beach. The 
path, narrow and winding, runs up the 
face of the cliff beyond the ravine on 
the N. side. We thus reach the top of 
the ridge to the W. of the rock; and 
then, descending a little, we cross the 
narrow neck. The pyramidal summit 
is still high above us, and both hands 
and feet must be occasionally used ere 
we gain its brow. But once there, we 
feel amply repaid for the toil. The 
chasms on each side; the precipice in 
front; the purple-tinted peaks and 
cliffs around ; the Dead Sea unfolding 
itself before us from the mouth of the 
Jordan to the salt-hills of Usdum ; the 
mountain range of Moab rising in 
broken masses from the very bosom of 
the sea on the E., and running away 
along the horizon rt. and 1. like a gi- 
gantic wall— these make up a picture of 
stern grandeur unequalled perhaps in 
the world. There is no beauty in it; 
but there is a wild magnificence more 
impressive than beauty. It seems to 


S. PAaestIne. 


Route 13.— Masada. 


239 


bear on every feature the impress of|on the N.; though the whole is now 


Heaven's vengeance. 

A portion of the summit of the rock on 
the N.W. is nearly level; and, includ- 
ing the broken ground on the S. side, 
the whole platform available for build- 
ing purposes measures about 1000 yds. 
by 400. The entrance to this platform 
is just below the western edge, through 
a gateway with a pointed arch. The 
remains of the ancient fortress now 
existing are neither extensive nor re- 
markable. They have something of 
a modern look, too, which disappoints 
us. The masonry, except.in one or 
two parts of the exterior defences, is 
rough, and even rude—the stones being 
loosely put together, and the interstices 
filled in with little fragments. This 
fact, combined with the pointed arches, 
almost forces one to the conclusion 
that the present remains are not older 
than the crusades; but history makes 
no mention of any occupation since the 


Roman age. There are 4 buildings |- 


still in part standing—2 just N. of the 
entrance on the W. side of the plat- 
form ; another towards the middle ; and 
a fourth at the northern end. The 
first has some pretensions to architectu- 
ral effect; the entrance gateway form- 
ed part of it; and we observe on the 
stones of the arch rude cuttings—per- 
haps masons’ marks—resembling Greek 
letters, and one not unlike the sign of 
the planet Venus9g. The ruin towards 
the middle of the platform reminds one 
of a ch,, the principal chamber havin 

a semicircular apse at its eastern end. 
The interior walls are covered with a 
very hard plaster, so studded with frag- 
ments of smooth pottery as to resemble 
rude mosaic. It had once a mosaic 
pavement. Atthe northern extremity 
of the area, some 50 ft. below the sum- 
mit, is a curious round tower with 
double walls of great strength, but now 
inaccessible. On a kind of terrace still 
lower down is a large quadrangular 
ruin. The projecting ledge on which 
these outworks stand may probably 
be the “white promontory” to which 
Josephus refers,. The remains of a 
strong wall can still be traced round 
the whole summit. The most ancient 


parts of the fortress seem to be those |; own food. 


in such a state of utter ruin that it is 
impossible to trace fully even the out- 
lines of the various buildings. There 
are 3 large cisterns for rain-water, all 
hewn in the rock; one on the N. is 
about 40 ft. square by 20 deep; 
another at the 8.W. is the largest, be- 
ing 100 ft. long, 40 broad, and 50 deep, 
still covered with white cement; the 
remaining one to the E. of the latter 
is smaller. The only other remains 
worthy of our attention are those of a 
wall encircling the rock. Every part 
of it can be traced by the eye from the 
summit, away on the beach far below, 
and along the cliffs and hill-sides 
around, Connected with this wall are 
the old camps formed long centuries 
ago by the besieging armies, and still 
apparently as complete as if they had 
been abandoned yesterday. The prin- 
cipal ones are on the N.W. and bw, 
sides. 


We are now prepared, for the sto 
of this strange desert fortress. e 
may read it as we sit amid its ruins, 
where not a shrub, nor a blade of grass, 
nor a solitary creeping plant can be 
seen. The Fortress of Masada was 
first built by Jonathan Maccabseus in 
the 2nd centy. B.c. Herod the Great 
afterwards added so much to the ex- 
tent and strength of the ramparts as to 
render the place impregnable—intend- 
ing it as a refuge for himself in case 
of danger. The description given of 
it by Josephus is accurate and full. It 
was situated on a rock overhanging 
the Dead Sea, encompassed by valleys 
of almost unfathomable depth, and 
only accessible by two rock-hewn 
paths—one on the W., which is now 
alone practicable, and the other on 
the E, side carried up from the shore 
by zigzags cut in the precipice. The 
summit was a plain, surrounded by a 
wall 7 stadia in circuit. Besides the 
fortifications and cisterns, Herod built 
on the N. and W. sides a palace and 
baths, adorned with columns and por- 
ticoes. The interior was left free for 
cultivation, so that the garrison might 
be able in some measure to raise their 
The jealous and timid 


240 


monarch laid up in the fortress im- 
menge stores of arms and provisions. 
Not long before the siege of Jerusa- 
lem by Titus the Sicarii got possession 
of Masada and its treasures y strata- 
m. The Sicarii (“ Robbers,” “ Free- 
booters,” something like the Spanish 
Guerrilla bands during the Peninsular 
war) were Jews, who, loving their 
country and their freedom, if not wisely, 
at least too well, devoted their lives to 
the revenging of their wrongs upon 
the Romans, at all times, and by all 
possiblemeans. As evils accumulated 
on their unfortunate country they be- 
came reckless as they were daring, so 
that the separating line between 
friend and foe was not very distinctl 
marked. The whole country was lai 
under contribution and trembled at 
theirname. After the destruction of 
Jerusalem, the fortresses of Masada, 
Herodium, and Macherus, all in the 
hands of the Sicarii, were the only 
places that held out against the Ro- 
mans. The two latter soon surrender- 
ed to the general Lucilius Bassus; 
and his successor Flavius Silva at 
length laid siege to Masada. The for- 
tress was then commanded by Eleazer, 
a skilful and intrepid soldier. The 
Romans first encircled the whole cliff 
by a wall, so as to prevent all possibility 
of escape from within, or succour from 
without. Encampments were fixed at 
the most convenient points, Their 
positions are still distinctly marked on 
the plain at the base of the rock, and 
on the tops of the ridges towards the 
N.W. and 8.W. The siege operations 
were commenced with the charac- 
teristic skill and perseverance of the 
Romans. The attack was directed 
against the western side, where alone 
the fortress was assailable; and Silva 
established his own quarters near the 
point where the isthmus of rock joins 
the ridge. A heavy tower on the 
eastern side of the isthmus, which de- 
fended the pass, was first taken. Be- 
hind it, on the N., may be observed a 
projecting ledge; here the Romans 
raised by immense labour a mound of 
earth and stones, and then constructed 
on the top of it an iron-cased tower, 
which completely commanded the ad- 


Route 13.— Masada, 
joining walls of the fortress. 


Sect. ITT. 


The 
Jews were thus driven off the ramparts 
on the western side; and battering 
rams played upon the walls. But 
before a practicable breach could be 
made, the besieged had formed an 
inner defence of wooden beams and 
earth, upon which engines could make 
no impression. But a more powerful 


ent .was employed. Silva ordered . 


his soldiers to hurl against this new 
wall a number of lighted torches. It 
soon: caught fire. An adverse wind, 
however, blew the flames in the face 
of the besiegers, threatening with in- 
stant destruction all their military en- 
ines, Retreating in confusion, the 
mans began to despair—when, just 
at that moment, “as if by Divine in- 
terposition,”’ says the Jewish historian, 
the wind changed, and blew strong in 
an opposite direction. The new wall 
was soon & mass of ruins, and the fort- 
ress open to a direct assault. Rejoic- 
ing in their success, the Romans retired 
for the night to their camp, resolved 
to storm the place on the following 
day. Every precaution was taken to 
prevent a single soldier of the garrison 
from effecting his escape. But such 
vigilance was unnecessary. 

The little garrison now consisted 
of only 967 persons, including wo- 
men and children. They had ex- 
hausted every resource in the forlorn 
hope of baffling the Romans. Their 
last defence was before their eyes a 
amouldering heap of ruins. A high 
wall and a vigilant army encircled the 
rock on which they stood. From the 
enemy nothing could be expected but 
death for the men, outrage for the 
women, and slavery for the children. 
Driven to despair, Eleazer assembled 
the bravest of his band, and thus in 
substance addressed them : — “ We 
have long since resolved, my com- 
rades, never to serve the Romans, 
never to serve any but God. The 
time has come to act as we have re- 
solved. We were the first to oppose 
the enemies of our country—we are 
the last to resist them. But the time 
for resistance is gone. If to-morrow’s 
sun rise upon us we are all lost. We 
shall then no longer have the power 


S. PALESTINE. 


to die honourably and free. God hin- 
self has declared against us—he has 
abandoned our nation. Had we not 
been accursed of Heaven, would He 
have permitted the destruction of our 
Holy City? We, the last of our race, 
are crushed by His anger. This im- 
pregnable fortress — what protection 
has it afforded us? These warlike 
. stores, these arms— what have we been 
able to achieve by them? The ftame 
that threatened our enemies, God 
turned on ourselves. If we have guilt 
to expiate, let not the Romans have the 
satisfaction of being the instruments of 
Divine wrath—let us be ourselves the 
instruments. Our wives will thus 
escape outrage, our children will thus 
escape slavery ; we shall thus preserve 
our freedom and win a glorious sepul- 
tur e.” 

But nature and affection were more 
powerful than the eloquence of Ele- 
azer. The hearts of the stern soldiers re- 
coiled from the thought of slaying those 
dearer to them than life. Eleazer, how- 
ever, followed up his stirring speech 
with one still more stirring. Inspired 
with the determination to gain his 
object, he adopted a more elevated 
strain, mixing the bitterest invectives 
with the loftiest hopes. ‘‘ Most griev- 


ously was I deceived,” he said, “in. 


thinking I was aiding brave men in 
their struggles for freedom—men de- 
termined to live with honour or to 
die. Ye are, it seems, no better than 
the common herd in courage or forti- 
tude—afraid even of the death which 
would deliver you from the greatest of 
calamities. The precepts given us by 
Heaven, and confirmed by the noble 
sentiments of our forefathers, teach us 
that life, and not death, is a misfor- 
tune. Death gives liberty to the soul. 
Death frees it at once from all the 
ills that afflict it on earth, and intro- 
duces it to its proper sphere of eternal 
communion with God. Contrast this 
bliss of Heaven with the horrors his- 
tory shows us the Romans have in store 
for us, for our wives, for our children, 
if we survive till to-morrow'’s dawn. 
Call to mind the crueltieés perpetrated 
on our brethren in Cesarea, in Scy- 
thopolis, in Damascus, and in Jerusa- 
[Syria and Palestine. ] 


Route 13.—Masada. 


' 241 


lem. Our hands are yet free to grasp 
the sword. To-morrow they will be 
bound, and we shall be compelled to 
listen in helpless misery to the im- 
ploring cry of wives and children. 
Let us die, then, together, as freemen 
ought to die!” 

These thrilling words drove the 
whole garrison to frenzy. They con- 
vulsively embraced their wives and 
children—for a moment lavished on 
them every form, every term of en- 
dearment, and then plunged their 
swords into their hearts. This scene 
of carnage finished, they heaped up 
all the treasures of the fortress in one 
enormous pile and burned them to 
ashes. Ten of their number were next 
chosen by lot to kill the rest. The 
victims calmly laid themselves down, 
each beside his fallen wife and chil- 
dren, and, clasping their corpses in his 
arms, presented his throat to the exe- 
cutioner. The remaining ten now drew 
lots for one who, after killing his com- 
panions, should destroy himself. The 
nine were slain, and he who stood 
singly and last, having inspected the 
prostrate multitude to see that not one- 
breathed, fired the palace, drove his 
sword through his body, and fell dead 
beside his family ! 

Thus perished 960 persons on the 
rock on which we now stand. Even 
after the lapse of 18 centuries we can 
scarcely look on the scene of such a 
fearful tragedy without a thrill of hor- 
ror. The deluded garrison believed 
that all should thus perish together ; 
but they were deceived—there re- 
mained still a few to tell the awful 
tale. An elderly woman, and another 
of superior education (a relative of 
Eleazer), with 5 children, had con- 
cealed themselves in the vaults, and 
thus escaped. The Romans, ignorant 
of what had occurred, were under arms 
by break of day, and immediately ad- 
vanced to the attack. They antici- 
pated a fierce resistance, and prepared 
for a still fiercer onset. But on reach- 
ing the summit no enemy appeared— 
no sound was heard save the crackling 
of the flames amid the palace-walls. 
They raised a shout, and the women 
hearing the noise came out from their 

M 


ST I ra oe ep SX 


242 Route 13.—Enged. Sect. IL. 


retreat and told them the sad tale.| 10). Between this place and ‘Ain Jidy 
They would not believe it; but the} the cliffs along the shore vary from 
women and children pointed wildly to | 1200 to 1500 ft. in height, thus about 
the burning palace. A © was | averaging the level of the Mediterra- 
soon opened to the interior, and there |nean. They are divided at midway by 
all that remained to the conquerors | Wady ‘Areijeh, a wild chasm which 
were the bleeding corpses of the cleaves the mountain range almost to 
rizon. The provisions had been left | its base. Within it is a fountain which 
untouched, to show the Romans that | sends forth a copious stream, but it is 
the garrison had not yielded to famine, | lost in the thirsty soil ere it reaches the 
but that they had preferred death to e. 

submission. (Joseph. Bel. Jud. vii. 
8, 9.) 

After this tragedy the name of 
Masada entirely disappeared from his- 
tory, and the dst to identify its site, 
and revive its story again, was Dr. 
Robinson. 


On leaving the base of the great 
rock of Sebbeh, our northward path 
leads over the undulating plain to- 
wards the shore, In less than 2 bra, 
we reach Wady Seyal, into which we 
descend by a series of terraces formed 
by the action of the winter torrents. 
The. strata of the delta can here be 
studied to advantage, being y 
-cut through by the deep glen. They 
consist chiefly of a chalky detritus, in- 
termixed with beds of sum and 
layers of salt and salt-clay. N. of 
Wady Seyal the plain becomes much 
narrower. In 1} hr. more the road 
crosses Wady uberah; and, with 
the delta formed by this ravine, the 
plain of Masada, as we may call it, 
terminates. The sea now approaches 
close to the mountains, and at the 
angle thus formed is a large natural 
depression, near the shore, called Bir- 
ket el-Khulil, “The Pool of Khulil,” or 
“ Abroham. x is . kind of galt 
marsh, flooded during the time of high 
sea in spring. Soon after the fall of 
the water a crust of impure salt forms 
upon the surface and is collected by 
the Arabs. At all seasons the whole 
region round the pool, and northward 
for 2 m. or more, emits a strong, dis- 
agreeable smell of sulphuretted bydro- 
gen. Pieces of sulphur and bitumen 
are seen along the shore; and, on the 
whole, this “pool of Abraham ” may be 
regarded as a modern representative 
of the slime-pits of Sodom (Gen. xiv, 


ENGEDI, in Arabic "Ain Jidy—both 
names having the same meaning, “ the 
Fountain of the Kid.” On approach- 
ing this ancient site from the S. we 
pass a ravine called Wady el-Ghir, 
and Ep nodiately enter @ rich plain 
about 4 m. square; ing Vv ent] 

from the declivity of ° mountaas ol 
the 1. to the shore on the rt.; and 
shut in on the N. by the cliffs of Wady 
Sudeir, which are among the highest 
along the whole western coast. About 
1m. up the mountain side, and at an 
elevation of some 400 ft. above the 
plain, is the fountain of ’Ain Jidy, 
rom which the place gets its name. 
The water is pure and sweet, though 
the temperature is as high as 81° Fah. 
It bursts from the limestone rock, and 
rushes down the steep descent, fretted 
with many a rock and crag, but gar- 
landed with verdant belts of acacia, 
mimosa, and lotus. On reaching the 
plain the brook runs across it in nearly 
a straight line to the sea, between 
thickets of cane. During the greater 
part of the year, however, it is ab- 
sorbed ere it reaches the shore. The 
banks are now cultivated to some ex- 
tent by the Arabs Rashaideh, who 
generally encamp in the neighbour- 
hood. The soil is exceedingly fertile, 
and in this climate, with culture and 
Irrigation, it might be made to pro- 
duce almost anything—even the rarest _ 
fruits of tropical climes, Traces of 
the ancient city exist here and there 
upon the plain, and lower declivity of 
the mountain, on the 8S. side of the 
brook, They are rude and uninte 
resting, consisting merely of founda- 
tions and shapeless heaps of unhewn - 
stones. The most convenient place 


ees 


S. Patestine. Route 13.—Engedi—Apples of Sodom. 


for encamping is by the stream at the 
foot of the pass, as here we can exa- 
mine at leisure the remains and site 
of Engedi, and the shore of the Dead 


Sea below. Our way in going north- 
ward will lead us the fountain 
itself, as the high hill N. of the little 


plain projects into the sea, cutting off 
all means of progress along the 
shore, 

Such then is the site, and such are 
the ruins, of the city of Engedi. Its 
origi name was n-T amar, 
“Pruning of the Palm,” doubtless be- 
cause it was celebrated from a very 
early period for its palm-trees. It was 
immediately after an assault upon the 
* Amorites that dwelt in Hazazon- 
Tamar” that the five Mesopotamian 
kings were attacked by the rulers of 
Sodom and the other cities of the 
plain. (Gen. xiv. 7. Comp. 2 Chron. 
xx. 2.) Under its adopted name En- 

i it is mentioned as a city of 
udah, and gives a distinctive title to 
that of the desert to which David 
withdrew for fear of Saul. It is more 
than probable that the fountain was 
always called Engedi; and that the 
ancient town built on the little plain 
below it came in time to take its 
name. Saul was told that David was 
in the “wilderness of Engedi;” and 
he took “three thousand men and 
went to seek David and his men upon 
the rocks of the wild goats.” (Josh. 
xv. 62; 1 Sam. xxiv. 1-4.) These 
animals still inhabit the cliffs above 
and around the fountain; the Arabs 
call them Beden. At a later period 
Engedi was the gathering-place of the 
bands of Moabites and Amorites who 
went up against Jerusalem, and after- 
wards fell, as we have seen, in the 
valley of Berachah. (2 Chron. xx. 2.) 
It is remarkable, as tending to show 
the permanence of everything in the 
East, that this is the usual route taken 
at the present day by such predatory 
bands of Arabs from Moab as make 
incursions into Southern Palestine. 
They sweep round the 8, end of the 
Dead Sea, then up the comparatively 
easy road along its western shore to 
"Ain Jidy, and thence toward Hebron, 
Tekoa, Bethlehem, or Jerusalem, as 


243 


the prospects of plunder seem most 
inviting. 

The vineyards of Engedi are cele- 
brated by Solomon : “ My beloved is 
unto me as a cluster of camphor in 
the vineyards of Engedi” (Oant. i. 
14); and the palm-groves and balsam 
by Josephus and Pliny. But the vine- 
yards no longer clothe the mountain 
side, and neither palm-tree nor balsam 
is geen on the plain. In the 4th centy. 
of our era there was still a large vil- 
lage here; not long afterwards, how- 
ever, it appears to have been aban- 
doned, for there is no reference to it 
in history, nor are there any traces of 
recent habitation, 

On the plain of Engedi the tra- 
veller will be able to illustrate for 
himself a remarkable passage of Jo- 
sephus ” Boll to the fruit called 
apples of Sodom. r speaking o 
the conflagration of the plain, and 
the remaining marks of the fire from 
heaven, he adds, “There are still to 
be seen ashes reproduced in fruits; 
which resemble eatable fruits in co- 
lour, but, on being plucked with the 
hands, are dissolved into smoke and 
ashes.” (B. J. iv. 8, 4.) Here be- 
side the rivulet a tree still grows with 
a singular kind of fruit. Its Arab 
name is ‘Osher, and botanists call it 
Aeclepias gigantea. The stem is 6 
or 8 in. in diameter, and the height 
of the tree is from 10 to 15 ft. It has 
@ grayish cork-like bark, and lon 
oval leaves, which when broken off 
discharge a milky fluid. The fruit 
resembles a large smooth apple, hangs 
in clusters of two or three, and has 
a fresh, blooming appearance; when 
ripe it is of a rich yellow colour, suf- 
ficiently tempting to the thirsty tra- 
veller. But on being pressed or struck 
it explodes like a puff-ball, leaving 
nothing in the hand except the shreds 
of the thin rind and a few dry fibres. 
It is chiefly filled with air. In the 
centre a slender pod runs through it 
from the stem, and is connected by 
delicate filaments with the rind. The 
pod contains a small quantity of fine 
silk with seeds. The Arabs collect 
the silk and twist it into matches for 
their guns; preferring it to the com- 

M2 


__ 


244 


mon match, because it burns freely 
without sulphur. 


From Engedi to’Ain Feshkhah is 
the most difficult and laborious stage 
in the whole journey. The road is 
about the worst in Syria, and reminds 
one in places of the pass of Nukb 
Hawy near Mount Sinai. It first 
winds up the mountain-side to the 
fountain of 'Ain Jidy (20 min.), and 
thence to the summit of the ridge 
over it (51 min. more). Here we ob- 
tain one of those commanding views 
of the Dead Sea, and the stern scen- 
ery round it, which give this tour 
one of its greatest charms. The py- 
ramidal rock of Sebbeh stands out 
boldly on the 8. ; and away far beyond 
it, blue-tinted by the distance, is the 
salt range of Usdum. The peninsula 
of Lisén is there, too, on the E. side, 
low and white. Beyond it are the 
ravines that furrow the Moab moun- 
tains, with their purple shadows; and 
high up in one of them the eye 
catches the town of Kerak, perched 
on its rock. The river Moyjib, the 
ancient Amon, fuiing th the sea just 
opposite us, dividi © y cli 
to their bases. The northern. section 
of the sea and the Jordan valley are 
hid behind the high, bold promontory 
of el-Mersed, not far distant from the 
place where we stand. 


From the top of this pass a road 
leads to the ruins of Tekoa, a day’s 
journey distant ; and a branch from it 

on to Bethlehem and Jerusa- 
lem. This road we now follow for 
about 4 m., and then, turning to the 
rt., cross the shallow bed of Wady es- 
- Sudeir, which a little farther down 
becomes a fearful chasm. Qn its 8. 
bank we notice the humble tombs of 
some Dawid'ireh Arabs, who were 
killed here through mistake by sol- 
diers from Hebron. This tribe inha- 
bits the valley of the Jordan; and all 
its members being Derwishes—that is 
“saints” in Arabic, though in Eng- 
lish we would translate it “ va, ts” 
—are greatly respected by the Be- 
dawin and villagers throughout the 
whole region. At the time refer- 


Route 13.— Coast of Dead Sea. 


Sect. ITI. 


red to they were mistaken for an- 
other tribe, and murdered in inno- 
cence, at least so far as that particular 
occasion was concemed. 

Crossing the long naked ridge which 
terminates at the promontory of el- 
Mersed, we traverse a rolling table- 
land called el-Husisah. The whole 
region is bleak and desert—a few half- 
withered shrubs appear here and there, 
but nothing approaching to vegetation 
or verdure can be seen. Rain-water 
is occasionally found in little rock ba- 
sins among the cliffs, and in natural 
pools in the valleys; but fountains 
are unknown. The Rashfideh Arabs 
generally encamp on this plateau. 

About 4 h. from the pass of ’Ain 
Jidy we reach the brink of Wady 
Derejeh, “the Valley of the Stair- 
case,’ whose name gives a hint of its 
character, and would be still more 
expressive if the word kharbéneh, 
“ ruined,” were added as an expletive. 
It is a ravine, 100 ft. or more in depth, 
with rugged banks. The descent is 
difficult and dangerous, and the as- 
cent on the other side is no better. 
Wady Derejeh is a continuation of 
that of Khureitin, in which is the cave 
described Rte. 11. The next wady we 
come to is Ta'fmirah, so called from 
the Arab tribe whose territory extends 
along it; it commences at Bethlehem. 
About 3 Teed a it a road branches 

e rt. I own the stee 
of Nukb Terabeh to a fountain Oe the 
same name on the shore of the sea. 
Those who wish to examine minutely 
the geological features of the cliffs 
and the detritus at their base, may 
descend here and proceed along the 
coast to 'Ain Ghuweir, 1} h. distant: 
where, beside the fountain of warm 
but sweet water, good camping-ground 
will be found, which it will be as well 
to make use of for the night. From 
thence the path still follows the margin 
of the lake (1h. 40 min.) to the mouth 
of Wady en-Na&r, where it again as 
cends to cross the promontory of Ras 
oh Peshihah. Such, however, as have 
no peculiar geological calling, and no 
particular affection for heat and mus- 
quitoes, and no high ambition to ven- 
ture life and limb on difficult passes : 


S. PALeEsTINeE. 


but who would enjoy pure air, com- 
manding views, and ease of body— 
will do better to follow the path along 
the summit of the cliffs. No fountain, 
it is true, here gladdens us with the 
murmur of its waters, or spreads out 
its little grass-plat for our tent, or of- 
fers tempting pasturage for our ani- 
mals; but neither do the roar of frogs, 
and the hum of insects, or the 

sting of musquitoes, banish sleep from 
our eyes. We ought to push forward 
as far, at least, as the cliff above ‘Ain 
Ghuweir, ere we give the word to halt 
for the night—thus making a journey 
of 7 h. from Engedi. By that time 
our lively Arabs will have discovered 
some obscure pool of rain-water, suffi- 
cient to supply all our wants. 

I have already said that this path 
is a favourite of the Bedawy plun- 
derers from Moab and Edom. By it 
they can penetrate far to the N. with- 
out exciting the attention of trouble- 
some villagers and garrisoned towns 
farther W. Some 50 years ago, Dr. 
Robinson tells us, a strong party of 
Hejaya from near Petra swept along 
it, and, suddenly falling upon the 
flocks of Deir Duwan, drove them off 
southward. The Ta’imirah, being in 
league with the villagers, hastily mus- 
tered their forces, and attacked the 
plunderers at Wady Derejeh; but the 
latter proved the strongest, and routed 
the Ta’‘imirah with considerable 


slaughter for an Arab fight. One poor | 


fellow, being beset on all sides, threw 
himself from the top of one of the 
cliffs into the valley below, and, though 
much hurt, effected his escape. Ever 
since there has been a blood feud be- 
tween the T'a’imirah and the Hejaya. 
The traveller and reader will thus see 
that for nearly 4000 years the character 
and habits of the people of this land 
have remained as unchangeable as the 
physical features. 37 centuries ago a 
plundering expedition from Mesopo- 
tamia carried off the goods and herds 
of Lot, and of the cities of the plain; 
and retreated northward along, or 
close to, this path, with their booty. 
Abraham pursued them and recovered 
the spoil. Only 4 centy. ago a similar 
expedition on a smaller scale swept 


Route 18.—Coast of Dead Sea. 


245 


away the flocks of Deir Duwin. The 
Ta’fmirah pursued, but were less for- 
tunate. And this is not a solitary 
instance. Not a year passes without 
its forays and reprisals. The roving 
tribes around Petra and Kerak are 
just as troublesome to the settled in- 
habitants of southern Palestine now, 
as the Moabites, Ammonites, and 
Edomites were to the Jews of old. 


A fatiguing ride of about 2 h. 
25 min. from the cliff over 'Ain Ghu- 
weir brings us to Wady en-Nar, the 
continuation of the Kidron. Its name, 
“Valley of Fire,” is descriptive of its 
aspect, for so bare and scorched is it 
that it looks as if it had participated 
in the doom of Sodom. It is a deep, 
natrow chasm, with perpendicular 
walls of limestone; which would be 
impracticable to human foot if nature 
had not shattered them. Scrambling 
down and up again, dragging after us 
our stumbling, quivering animals, we 
soon strike the path on the N. bank, 
which leads up on the left to the con- 
vent of Mar Sa&ba. The road to it 
traverses a dreary waste, close to Wady 
en-Nar, and the distance is 4h. From 
the convent to Jerusalem is only 24 h. 
more; so that the whole ride from 
"Ain Ghuweir to Jerusalem will oc- 
cupy about 8 h. 40 min. For a de- 
scription of the Convent see Rte. 9. 


I have already stated that we may 
economically include in this excursion 
the points of interest described in 
Rte. 9, namely the northern extremity 
of the Dead Sea, the Jordan, and the 
sites of Gilgal and Jericho. To take 
in these we now climb the promontory 
of Ras el-Feshkhah ; 15 min. brings us 
to the summit, 1000 ft. or more above 
the sea, which washes the cliff at our 
feet. The view is most commanding, 
embracing the whole northern section 
of the lake, and a large portion of the 
Jordan valley. Nearly opposite to us 
is the ravine of Zurka M’ain, cutting 
through the Moab mountains. At its 
mouth are the warm springs of Callirr- 
hoe. The rock of Ras el-Feshkhah is 
dolomite, or magnesian limestone, of a 
close firm texture, and a delicate gray 


246 


colour. The sidesand base are cover- 
ed with a coating of conglomerate of 
large and small ents from the 
uw 
closely joined to the rock as to lead at 
first to the impression that the whole 
interior of the mountain is a solid bed 
of this material. Bituminous lime- 
stone also occurs here and there. 


A difficult, and even dangerous 
descent, of 40 min. brings us to the 
fountain of ‘Ain e]-Fes h. The 
water is clear and kling, but the 
taste abominable, and the temperature 
80° Fahr. Near it on the N. are the 
foundations ofa little square tower and 
a few other buildings. The view of 
these remains wonderfully excited M. 
de Saulcy; and on seeing them he 
concluded in a moment that he had 
discovered the site of the long-lost 
GomograH. The place is now of some 
interest ; but only because of the tem- 
porary halo thrown around it by the 
bold theories of the French expedition, 
and the hosts of needless refutations 
they called forth both in France and 
England. The traveller will, doubt- 
less, wish to see what the learned anti- 
q so positively affirms to be the 
dine. of domorrab; I shall therefore 
quote his own words, so that each visi- 
tor may satisfy himself upon the sub- 

ec 


“We do not set out (from ‘Ain el- 
Feshkhah) before } 8, and then 
proceed N.N.E., leaving the Kharbet 
el-Yahoud (the ruins of the little 
tower) on our rt. 25 yds. off to our 1. 
the steep cliffs of the Jebel Feshkhah 
begin to arise, whilst the sea is 200 
yds. to our rt., bordered by a dense 
thicket of gigantic reeds. By 8 hrs. 
25 min. the fot of the mountains is 
concealed by a hill covered with frag- 
ments of ruins, and our road itself 
passes over similar vestiges, which only 
a practised eye can distinguish. By 
8°30 we notice, about 50 yds. off 
on our 1., a circular cavity resem- 
bling a crater, having in front 2 high 
mounds of sand, which might very 
caaily be taken for vorcanie ashes. 

uins are a ent eve ere, and 
the Arabs cine them the. hame of 


Route 18.— Coast of Dead Sea. 


per cliffs, not very thick, but so {| bo 


Sect. II. 
Kharbat Feshkhah. 8°35 we in- 
tersect a boundary ditch, 5 yds. wide, 


evidently constructed by human la- 

ur... Almost immediately after 
having crossed the ditch ruins appear 
again in much greater quantities, and 
these are unquestionably the skeleton 
of a large city, of which the vestiges we 
described on the opposite side of the 
ditch formed perhaps a suburb. We 
have now in sight, 30 yds. off on our 
rt., a ditch lined with stones, which we 
follow in a parallel direction to a con- 
siderable extent... .. . By 8-40 
we are 500 yds. from the water's 
edge, and between our road and the 
mountain we descry the piled-up re- 
mains of a ruined tower. . . 6 min. 
later we arrive opposite the northern 
extremity of a long wall; in all proba- 
bility merely the continuation of the 
ditch lined with stones, of which we 
have already encountered 2 consider- 
able portions. ... . 

“I have said the ruins through 
which we are proceeding are not easily 
distinguished, and that it is very pro- 
bable a hundred successive travel- 
lers might them by without the 
slightest idea of their existence. This 
remark is so feasible, that, on my first 
warning the Abbé Michon of their pre- 
sence, he laughed in my face, as much 
as to tell me I wasdreaming. Luckily 
the boundary ditch which we had to 
cross, and the walls that appeared next, 
enabled me to make him recognise, 
with his own touch, what I called ruins, 
and which, as he maintained, were 
merely heaps of stones, thrown there 
by chance through a freak of nature,” 

We need not follow the clear-sighted 
antiquary farther. He is unquestion- 
ably the first who has had the good 
fortune, as he says himself, to disoover 
ruins in this spot. Whether those who 
follow him will be able to see all he 
has discovered, or whether they will 
imitate the example of his companion 
and friend the Abbé, will greatly de- 
pend on the liveliness of their imagina- 
tion. I will only add that there is not 
a shadow of evidence tending to fix 
the site of Gomorrah here, even were 
it shown that ruins did exist. The 
whole of the notices in sacred history 


S. Pa.estine. 
prove that the four cities of the plain 


Route 14.—Jerusalem to Gaza. 


247. 
The whole distance from Jersalem 


were near each other, and that they| to Gaza is about 16 hrs. ordinary 


were situated towards the southern ex- 
tremity of the lake. But according to 
M. de Saulcy’s arrangement, om 
and Zoar are quite close to each other 
beside Jebel Usdum; Admah is 7 or 8 
m. above them high up on the moun- 
tains; and Gomorrah is here, nearly 40 
m. northward 

From ’Ain el-Feshkhah the baggage- 
animals may be sent direct to Bibs, 
nearly due N., while we follow a track 
inclini along the shore. 
The road is level and good; only here 
and there a little spongy where a 
brackish spring oozes up through the 
soil. In 2 hrs. we reach the north-west- 
ern angle of the Dead Sea, where some 
little streams fall into it amid thickets 
of cane and tamarisks. 1 h. more 
brings us to the Jordan, from whence 
we reach Jericho in 2 hrs. For a full 
description of this region, and the road 
to Jerusalem, see Rte. 9. 


ROUTE 14. 
JERUSALEM TO ELEUTHEROPOLIS AND 
GAZA. 

H. OM. 
Jerusalem to Beit Nettif .. .. 5 50 
Shuweikeh, Socoh .. .. .. 0 85 
Tell Zakariya, Azekah - « 1 0 
Tell es-Safieh,Gata .. .. .. 1 20 
Beit Jibrin, Hlewtheropolis.. .. 2 0 

Site of Mareshah. 

(Hebron to Beit Jibrin, 6 h.) 
Ajlain, Eglon oe oe ee we 8 BD 
Um Lakis, Lachish .. .. .. 0 45 
Umeir .. .. 22 22 oe oe 0 45 
Ghuzzeh,Gaza .. .. .« .« 3 O 

Total.. ..18 45 


travel, and may thus be easily done in 
2 days, or even less, when the only ob- 
ject in view is to doit. The last half 
especially we may pass at a round 
canter, as it is a plain. The ancient 
road, existing from the time of the 
Hebrew monarchy, when “a chariot 
came up and went out of Egypt for 
600 shekels of silver,”’ passes ugh 
Beit Jibrin (Eleutheropolis), 8 hrs. 
from Jerusalem. To’such as go direct 
this interesting village, with its wonder- 
ful caves and massive ruins, will form 
the first stage. Caravans to Gaza now 
usually follow the Yafa road to the 
borders of the great plain, and then go 
southward by Ekron. I purpose, how- 
ever, to deviate from both this and the 
former, in order to visit some places 
celebrated in Scripture history, and to 
obtain a more extensive view of the 
border land between Philistia and 
Judah—the scene of Samson’s strug- 
gles. The old road to Gaza is now 
called, like all the other leading roads 
through Syria, es-Sultany, or, in free 
English, “the Queen's highway ;” but 
lest any hapless traveller, deceived by 
such a specious designation, should at- 
tempt to make it out for himself, rely- 
ing on finger-posts and other such con- 
veniences at puzzling forks, I hereby 
recommend the employment of a trust- 
worthy guide for every step. In fact, 
the royal highway is so far dege- 
nerated as not to be distinguishable 
from the goat-paths that branch off 
from it every here and there; only 
the latter are generally smoother. 

Another way to Gaza is by Hebron, 
from which Eleutheropolis is only 6 
hrs. distant. The section between 
Jerusalem and Hebron is described in 
Rte. 7; and that between Hebron and 
Eleuth lis I shall farther notice 
in connexion with the latter city. 


Leaving the Holy City, and skirting 
the northern side of the plain of Re- 
phaim, we strike down Wady el-Werd, 
past Philip’s fountain, and soon after- 
wards the site of Bether is high up on 
our l.,as we turn into Wady Bittir. 
(See Rte. 12.) The road now winds 


238 


through deep glens, and skirts the 
sides of rounded hills, as it works its 
way toward the plain. Occasionally we 
get glorious views down long ravines, 
of which the bright sea forms the back- 
fround, melting away into the horizon. 

he heights on every side are crowned 
with gray ruins and half-deserted vil- 
lages, whose venerable names 
back to the days of the old prophets. 
Among the most conspicuous of these 
is Jedfr, situated on the crest ofa high 
ridge to the southward—in which we 
recognise the Gedor of the mountains 
of Judah. (1 Chron. xii.7.) Jeb’ah, 
on its conical hill in Wady Musurr, is 
also visible in the same direction, but 
much nearer. This is the Gibeah of 
Josh. xv. 57. On this route the pecu- 
liar features of the “hill-country of 
Judswa” are seen to the greatest ad- 
vantage. Here are the rounded hills 
encircled by rings of gray limestone— 
natural terraces which once supported 
the little belts of corn, the rows of figs 
and olives, and the ranges of vines, in 
those prosperous ages when Palestine 
was “a land of corn and wine, of oil- 
olive and honey.” (2 Kings xviii. 32.) 
Now industry is unknown, and nature 
has resumed her sway. The corn- 
fields, the vineyards, the fig and olive 
groves—all are gone, except little 
groups round the inhabited villages; 
left as if to prove what the country 
might be. During spring hill and vale 
are covered with thin grass and aroma- 
tic shrubs, mixed with a profusion of 
wild flowers that give a brilliant 
colouring to the landscape; but in 
autumn the rocky hills swell out in 
empty, unattractive barrenness. 


In about 4 hrs. we reach a little vil- 
lage called ’Allar el-Féka, “ the Upper 
’Allar,” situated on the side of a ridge 
looking down upon a glen that runs off 
to the N.W. Belowitis Allar es-Sifla 
(the lower), with a large, old, ruined 

hurch, solidly built. On the top ofa 
high hill about 3 h. N. by W. is the 
large ancient village of Beit ’Atab, the 
capital of the district. Itcommands an 
extensive view towards the 8. and W. 
From it can be seen in a deep valley 
the ruins of “Ain esh-Shems, the an- 


Route 14.—Jerusalem to Gaza. 


Sect. III. 


cient Bethshemesh, 5 m. W.; and also 
Sar'ah, standing conspicuously on the 
crest of a ridge 2 m. N. of the latter; 
in which we recognise the Zorah of 
Scripture, the birthplace of Sam- 
son. 


In 20 min. more we come to a ruined 


us| khan, with the remains of a little 


modern hamlet besideit. From hence 
the Sultfny runs down a glen called 
Wady el-Khian into the great Wady 
Musurr, 2 m. below: and crossing the 
latter, it goes on in a direct line to 
Beit Jibrin, less than 4 hrs. distant. 
Following the Sultény for a few mi- 
nutes, we turn to the rt. along the ridge, 
and in 1$ h. reach Beit Nettif, situ- 
ated on a rocky crest. The view from 
this village is extensive and in the 
highest degree interesting. The moun- 
tains of Judah are seen melting gradu- 
ally down into a belt of dar Frown 
hills, and then into the broad plain of 
Philistia. Away on the N. is Wady 
Surar, a continuation of Beit Hanina, 
opening out from among the hills; and 
here, close on the 8.,is Wady Sumt, 
a continuation of Musurr. Beyond 
the latter, on the W. and §., is the hill 
country, in distinction from the higher 
mountain range behind. “It is the 
middle region between the mountains 
and the plain, stretching far to the N. 


‘and §., except where interrupted by a 


ridge beyond the Surir. This region 
is for the most part a beautiful open 
country, consisting of low hills, usually 
rocky, separated by broad arable val- 
leys, mostly sown with grain, as are 
also many of the swelling hills. The 
whole tract is full of villages and 
deserted sites and ruins, and many 
olive-groves appear around the former.” 
From Beit Nettif a great number of 
villages and ruins are in view; among 
which not less than ten bear ancient 
names. The traveller will do well to 
select an intelligent man from the 
crowd of white-turbaned elders and 

zy-looking youngsters that gather 
round him; and ‘to get him to” point 
out the positions of such Scripture lo- 
calities as are visible. On the N. he 
will thus be shown Zant’a, the Zanoah 
of Josh. xy, 34; Stir’ab and ’Ain esh- 


S. PAbLesTine. 


Shems, already referred to as the an- 
cient Zorah and Bethshemesh; Tibneh, 
behind the hill farther to the 1., in which 
we recognise the Timnath of Dan, the 
city of Samson’s wife, to which he went 
down from Zorah ; Yarmfk, about 1 m. 
W., identical with the Jarmuth of the 
plain of Judah (Josh. xv. 35); the 
green truncated cone away beyond it, 
called Tell Zakariya, is the site of the 
Caphar Zacharia mentioned by Sozo- 
mon in the region of Eleutheropolis, 
and probably also of the still more an- 
cient Azekah (Josh. xv. 35); Shu- 
weikeh in the vale below:us on the 
S.W., is unquestionably the Shochoh 
where the Philistines assembled to 
fight against Judah; and Wady es- 
- Sumt, beside it, is the valley of ' 
where David slew Goliath. (1 Sam. 
xvii. 1, 2.) Among the mountains on 
the E. are still seen Gibeah and Gedor, 
above referred to. 

We may pitch our tents here and 
contemplate at leisure every feature of 
this interesting country—fixing upon 
the mind scenes hallowed by the patri- 
otic devotion of Samson and David. 
A most interesting day's excursion 
may also be made from this village 
through the country of Samson's boy- 
hood and the scene of most of his ex- 
ploits. The following itinerary may 
serve as a guide; while a full descrip- 
tion, with historical notices, will be 
found in Rte. 17. Jarmuth 20 min.; 
Bethshemesh 1h.; Zorah about 1 h.; 
Tibneh, Timnath, about 1} h.; from 
the latter place we may turn up Wady 
es-Sumt, following the footsteps of 
the fugitive Amorites, and passing on 
our way the probable sites of Azekah 
and Makkedah, where Joshua hanged 
their 5 kings. (Josh. x.—see Rte. 10, 
and also below.) From hence we ascend 
the valley of Elah to Beit Nettif 


again. 


From Beit Nettif the baggage can 
be sent direct to Beit Jibrin, 3 hrs. 
distant, while the traveller makes a 
long détour down the valley of Elah to 
Shuweikeh (Shochoh), Tell Zakariya 
(Azekah), and Tell es-Safieh, which I 
consider to be the site of the long-lost 
Gath, the city of Goliath. A smart 


Route 14.— Valley of Elah. 


249 


ride of 54 brs. will take in the whole; 
thus leaving ample time for an exami- 
nation of the various ruins, 


SHoOcHOH and the VaLLEy or ELay.— 
Leaving Beit Nettif, we descend into 
Wady es-Sumt by a path which winds 
among grow of olives; and in 20 min. 
reach the bottom of the valley, here 
about 1 m. wide, filled with fields of 
grain, and shut in on each side by 
moderate ridges, Its direction is here 
about N.W., but a little farther down 
it sweeps round gently more to the 
northward. Through its centre winds 
a broad torrent-bed, dry during sum- 
mer, but thickly covered with round 
pebbles; its banks are fringed with 
shrubbery, among which grow the 
sumt or acacia trees, that give the 
valley its name. 

Turning down the valley, and riding 
for some 20 min. among the corn-fields 
by the side of the torrent-bed, we ob- 
serve upon the left bank, nearly 4 m. 
above us, a kind of natural terrace co- 
vered with green fields (it was in spring 
I saw it), and dotted with gray ruins. 
This is Shuweikeh, the Socoh of the 
plain of Judah, mentioned in connexion 
with Jarmuth, Adullam, and Azekah 
(Josh. xv. 35); and according to 
Jerome situated 9 m. from Eleuthero- 
polis on the way to Jerusalem. 
Another reference to Socoh (or 
Shochoh) enables us to determine the 
ancient name of this fine valley, and 
proves it to be the scene of one of the 
most romantic stories in Scripture—the 
combat between David and Goliath. 
The 17th chap. of 1 Sam. should be 
read carefully on the spot; and we can 
thus see how graphic and how true are 
the descriptions of the sacred histo- 
rian. . « 

“Now the Philistines gathered to- 
gether their armies to battle, and were 
gathered together at Shochob, which 

elongeth to Judah, and pitched be- 
tween Shochoh and A . And 
Saul and the men of Israel were gath- 
ered together and pitched by the val- 
ley of Elah, and set the battle in array 
against the Philistines, And the 
Philistines stood on a mountain on the 

u3 


, 


250 


one side, and Israel stood on a moun- 
tain on the other side: and there was 
a valley between them.” The i- 
tions of the opposing armies can here 
be seen at a glance. The Philistines 
were ra along the side of the 
ridge on which the ruins of Shochoh 
stand, not far from that place, but ex- 
tending from it towards Azekah, which 
I would identify with Tell Zakariya, 
the conspicuous truncated hill 2 m. to 
the N.W. on the same side of the val- 
ley. The Israelites under Saul occu- 
pied a good position on the opposite 
ridge. tween the two armies was 
the valley, then called Elah from its 
“Terebinth” trees, and now Sumt from 
its “Acacias.” Down the 1 bank 
strode the haughty Goliath, one of the 
last of that race of giants that had long 
been the terror of the Iaraclites. His 
polished armour and bragen shield 
and helmet glittered in the sunbeams 
as he advanced across the valley. The 
eyes of all Israel were upon him, 
when day after day for'40 days he 
cried to the trembling troops above, 
“TI defy the armies of Israel; give me 
a man that we may fight together.” 
At last David arrived in the camp with 
a supply of provisions for his three 
brothers, who were soldiers of Saul. 
He heard the defiance of Goliath, and 
resolved to meet him. His brothers 
very naturally sneered at his presump- 
tion ; and even Saul tried to dissuade 
him with kind words—“ Thou art not 
able to go against this Philistine to 
fight with him; for thou art but a 
youth, and he a man of war from his 
youth.” But he was neither daunted 
nor discouraged ; he felt that a greater 
than man was on his side. He even 
refused proffered armour and weapons ; 
and with his sling and his staff and 
his shepherd’s bag he came fearlessly 
down the hill-side. Reaching the dry 
torrent-bed, he carefully selected five 
smooth stones and put them in his 
bag; the traveller will still see that 
he had ample choice. Thus equipped 
he advanced to meet his foe. It was 
an anxious moment for the Israelites, 
The chances of armour, weapons, ex- 
perience, bodily strength, were all 
against their champion. There was 


Route 14.— Valley of Elah. 


Sect. DiI. 


not perhaps a single heart that throb- 
bed calmly, save his who, to all ap- 
pearance, was in greatest danger. 
“Am I a dog?” said the Philistine, 
looking at David's boyish face and 
simple equipments, that thou comest 
to me with staves?” “I come to 
thee,”’ replied the youth, “in the name 
of the Lord of Hosts, the God of the 
armies of Israel, whom thou hast 
defied.” The result is well known. 
Goliath fell, his brain pierced by a 
stone from the shepherd’s sling. i 

own .sword was employed to behead 
him, and was laid up as a trophy in 
Israel for many a year afterward. 
When the Philistines saw that their 
champion was killed, they were seized 
with s sudden panic and fled. The 
Israelites raised a shout of triumph, 
and immediately started in pursuit. 
It was no regular retreat, like that of 
@ modern army which has suffered a 
repulse—such {things were unknown 
then, as they are own how among 
undisciplined troops. It was a rout; 
a complete sauve qui peut—every one 
making for his own city. The Phi- 
listines seem to have been chiefly 
from Gath and Ekron ; or at least these 
were the strong cities to which they 
fled for safety. They were both, as 
we shall see, in the same direction 
(N.W.); and the Israelites followed 


closely, cutting. them down to their 
very gates. (1 Sam. xvii.) 


Our route now leads us nearly along 
the track of the fugitive Philistines. 
A ride of # h. down the green valley 
of Elah brings us to the base of a 
i hill, forming one of the most 
iking features in the whole dis- 
trict. Its sides are very steep, but 
everywhere cultivated in little nar- 
row terraces that encircle them like 
stairs; the top is flat, and seems 
partly artificial. The delicate green 
of the grain and during spring 
contrasts well with the dark brown 
copse of the lower hills and ridges 
around. The hill rises abruptly on 
the left bank of the valley, its base 
even projecting into it, and causing a 
gracefal curve. This is Tell Zakariya, 
and, as I stated above, may probably 


a 


S. Pa.esTIne. 


be the site of the ancient city of 
AZEKAH. The Philistines encamped 
on the ridge between Shochoh and 
Azekah, having the valley of Elah in 
front of them. The site of Shochoh 
is known, the valley of Elah is known 
too; there cannot, therefore, be a 
doubt that it was along the ridge on 
the left bank of Wady es-Samt that 
the Philistines took up their position. 
And here, on that ridge, about 2 m. 
from the ruins of Shochoh, is a hill, 
evidently the site of an ancient city. 
The name, it is true, is not the same; 
but we might easily suppose the He- 
brew ’Azekah changed in time into the 
more familiar Zakariya. Axekah was 
one of the strongest cities in this re- 
gion, being able to withstand for a 
time the power of the Babylonians. 


J er. xxxiy. 7.) Tell Zakartya, if 
ortified, could be defended by a hand- 
ful of men against an army. 


The ascent is somewhat steep and 
difficult; but the glorious view amply 
repays one. The whole valley of 
Elah is before us, emerging from the 
dark mountains of Judea on the 
§.E.; sweeping along in grace 

een curves past the base of the 
Fil at our feet; and then onward to 
the N.W., till it opens out into the 
great plain. Just at the north-west- 
ern base of the tell is the head of 
another valley, separated from Wad: 
es-Sumt by a low narrow woode 
ridge. This valley, green and beauti- 
ful as its sister, winds away w 

at the very conspicuous hill called 
Tell es-Sffich, 3 m. distant, on the 
side of the plain. The summit of 
Tell Zakariya is a flat area about 200 
yards in diameter, now cultivated, but 
encumbered here and there with old 
stones and rubbish. On the northern 
side of the hill a little below the 
summit are some ruins and caves, 
such as are met with at almost all the 
ancient sites in this region. 

The identification of Azekah en- 
ables us to fix the scene of another 
very remarkable event in Jewish his- 
tory. After defeating the Amorites 
at Gibeon, Joshua pursued them down 
the pass of Bethhoron, and along the 
borders of the plain “to Azekah and 


Route 14.—Site of Azekah. 


251 


Makkedah.” (Josh. x. 10.) Hotly 
pressed by the Israelites, the fugitives 
seem to have made for Jarmuth, the 
nearest of the five allied cities. It is 
yonder on the top of the ridge, about 
2m. E. of where we stand. They 
had got up this valley of Elah as far 
as Azekah and Makkedah. Here the 
5 kings, wearied by the lo ursuit, 
and seeing the foe close behind them, 
were unable to ascend the hill to Jar- 
muth, and therefore hid themselves 
ina cave at Makkedah. The site is 
unknown, but it could not have been 
far distant from Azekah. On the rt. 
bank of Wady esSumt, about 1 m. 
above the tell, is a ruin called el- 
Klédiah, answering to the position, and 
bearing some resemblance to the name, 
of Makkedah. Joshua shut up the 
cave, placed a strong guard over it, 
and then followed the Amorites to 
the very gates of their fortified cities, 
Returning to Makkedah, the Israelites 
encamped there, and we may safely 
assume that their camp was pitched 
in this valley of Elah. The 5 kings 
were brought out of the cave, ed 
on 5 trees, and their dead ies 
thrown back into the cave again. 
(Josh, x. 16-27.) Makkedah was af- 
terwards captured and its people ex- 
terminated. From thence the Israel- 
ites marched to Libnah, a site still 
unknown, but apparently on the bor- 
ders of the plain to the S.W. 

About 24 m. §.-by-W. of Tell Za- 
kariya, among the low dark hills, is 
the small village of Deir Dubbén, “the 
Convent. of -the Fly,” beside which 
are some remarkable caverns. 8, of 
the village are several irregular pits 
15 to 20 feet deep, with arched pas- 
sages in their sides leading into large 
circular chambers excavated in the 
chalky rock, varying from 10 to 20 ft, 
in diameter, and having high domed 
roofs, with an aperture at the top to 
admit the light. ‘“ These apartments,” 
says Dr. Robinson, “are mostly in 
clusters, 3 or 4 together, communi- 
cating with each other. Around one 
pit towards the 8.W. we found 16 
such apartments thus connected, form- 
ing a sort of labyrinth. They are all 
hewn very regularly; but many are 


Pa 


252 


y broken down ; and it is not im- 
poset le that the pits themselves may 
ve been ca by the falling in of 
similar domes. Some of the apart- 
ments are ornamented, either near the 
bottom or high up, or both, with rows 
of small holes or niches, like pigeon- 
holes, extending quite around ,the 
wall. In the largest cluster, in the 
innermost dome, a rough block of the 
limestone has been left standing on 
one side, 10 or 12 ft. high, as if a rude 
pulpit or a pedestal for a statue. In 
the same apartment are several crosses 
cut in the wall; and in another of the 
same suite are several very old Cufic 
inscriptions, one of which is quite 
long.” These caves ought to be care- 
fully searched for inscriptions; and all 
found, in whatever character, ought 
to be copied. The probable origin 
and object of such remarkable exca- 
vations I shall refer to below in con- 
nexion with Beit Jibrin, which is 
about 12 h. 8. of Deir Dubban. 


Descending from Tell Zakariya 
westward, we pass through the olive- 
groves which surround the little vil- 
lage of Ajjir; and then turn to the 
rt. into the green valley above re- 
ferred to. Down this we wind through 
verdant corn-fields, having on each 
side low ridges and rounded hills, 
thickly covered with dark brown 
shrubbery. The wady widens as we 
advance; the little hills become still 
less; and the great plain in front, at 
first seen like a vista, gradually opens 
up: In about 1 h. 20 min. we reach 
Tell es-Safieh. 


Tell es-Sdfieh, GATH.—This conspi- 
cuous tell stands on the side of the 
plain of Philistia—the helah of 
the Bible (Deut. i. 7; Josh. x. 40, 
xv. 33, &c.; where it is translated “ the 
Vale,” or “ Valley ”)—which extends 
westward to the sea; while eastward 
are the low dark hills that run along 
the base of the mountains of Judah. 
The tell is irregular in form, its sum- 
mit rising about 100 ft. above the 
ridge that joins it on the E., and per- 
haps 200 over the plain that sweeps 


Route 14.— Gath. 


its western base. On the top are the 
foundations of an old castle, and 
among them a modern wely; and 
members of hewn stones may be seen 
built up in the walls of the little ter- 
races along the sides. On the N.E. 
is @ projecting shoulder, 50 or 60 ft. 
lower the summit; its sides, 
which seem to have been scarped, 
break down in a steep smooth declivity 
to the valley along which we came 
from the E. Here too are traces of 
old buildings; and here is situated 
the modern village, which extends 
along the whole northern face of the 
tell to another rocky projection on 
the W. In the walls of the houses 
are many old stones, and two lime- 
stone columns still stand away at the 
western extremity. Around the sides 
of the hill, especially on the 8., I ob- 
served many e cisterns hewn in 
the rock. The view from the summit 
is most extensive. The whole plain 
1s ore us, running away in gentle 
undulations far to the . ald S., 
patched with large green fields of 
waving corn and red fallow land; 
with here and there a little gray vil- 
lage, and oftener a desolate ruin. On 
the 8.W. the white downs of Gaza 
and Ascalon mingle on the horizon 
with the glittering waves of the Me- 
diterranean. On the W. is the little 
hill of Ashdod, dark with olive-groves ; 
farther to the rt. is Ekron; and farther 
still, far beyond it, the white tower of 
Ramleh. The mountains of Judza 
rise up on the E., in dark, broken 
masses. Almost every peak is crowned 
with village or ruin, whose name 
calries us away thougands of years 


A careful examination of the com- 
manding position of this tell, of the 
ruins still existing upon it in spite of 
the industry of the peasants, and of 
the large subterranean reservoirs, 
shows that it is not only a site of high 
antiquity, but of great strength and 
importance. It is such a ition, 
in fact, as would form, when fortified, 
the key of Philistia. Yet the name 
suggests no place of note; except in- 
deed we adopt the supposition of Dr. 


: Robinson, that it bears some relation 


Sect. ITT. 


S. PALESTINE. 


to the valley of Zephathah, where Asa 
defeated the army of Zerah the Ethio- 
pian. (2 Chron. xiv. 10.) During the 
time of the crusades Tell es-Safieh 
became celebrated. About the year 
1138, shortly after the rebuilding of 
the old castle of Beit Jibrin, king 
Fulco erected on this hill a fort to 
check the forays of the Muslem gar- 
rison of Ascalon. It became known 
among Franks by the name of Blanche- 
garde. It was captured and disman- 
tled by Saladin in 1191; but Richard 
of England rebuilt it the following 
year. The plain around it was the 
scene of many of those “moving in- 
cidents,” and “hairbreadth ‘scapes ”’ 
which invest the life of Richard with 
all the charms of romance. On one 
occasion, on the eve of St. Thomas, 
he started from Ramleh with a feeble 
escort and rode across the plain to- 
wards this castle.. Saladin had, at 
nearly the same moment, despatched 
300 of his choicest troops to the same 
place; and the king by the merest 
accident escaped falling into their 
hands. On a subsequent occasion, as 
he was wandering over the country 
between Blanch e and Gaza, he 
was attacked suddenly by a large 
party of Saracens; after a terrible 
struggle, during which many of his 
assallants were cut down, he succeeded 
in disarming 5 and marching them 
off prisoners. About the same time 
he went to pass the night in a neigh- 
bouring village, with a few faithful 
followers. r they had retired to 
rest the place was surrounded by the 
enemy. Richard was the first to leap 
from his bed, and, only taking time 
to grasp sword and shield, attacked the 
enemy, killed 4 of them, and captured 
7! These little incidents make the 
country round this old fortress classic 
ground to the English traveller. 

But Tell es-Saéfieh has a higher 
claim upon our attention than all 
“that romance of many-coloured life 
which Fortune pours round the Cru- 
saders”’ could give it. A careful exa- 
‘mination of the several passages of 
Scripture in which the royal city of 
GaTH is mentioned forces me to the 
conclusion that its site must be looked 


Route 14,—Gath. 


253 


for near this spot, and it is, therefore, 
highly probable that it stood on this 
very hill. Gath occupied a strong po- 
sition (2 Chron. xi. 8) on the border 
between Judah and Philistia (1 Sam. 
xxi. 10; 1 Chron. xviii. 1); and from 
its strength and resources, forming the 
key of both countries, it was the scene 
of long and bloody struggles, and 
was often captured and recaptured. 
2 Chron. xi. 8, xxvi. 6 ; 2 Kings xii. 17 ; 
os vi. 2.) We learn, too, that it 
was not far from Socoh and Adullam 
(2 Chron. xi. 8), and that it stood on 
the way leading from the former to- 
ward Ekron; for when the Philistines 
fled on the death of Goliath, Saul pur- 
sued them “by the way of Shaaraim, 
even unto Gath and unto Ekron.” The 
Philistines probably fled down the 
very valley through which we have 
come from Tell Zakariya; it was 
their natural route from the ridge on 
which they were encamped to the 
Bhephelak (“valley”) and to Ekron. 
(1 Sam. xvii. 1, 52.) These various 
notices combine in pointing to Tell 
es-Safieh as the site of Gath. And 
there is still another passage of Scrip- 
ture history also tending to the same 
conclusion. When the Ark was cap- 
tured by the Philistines it was taken 
to the Temple of Dagon at Ashdod; 
but the inhabitants, when smitten with 
the plague, sent it to Gath; and the 
Gittites, for a similar reason, forwarded 
it to Ekron. (1 Sam. v.) These facts 
show that Ashdod, Gath, and Ekron 
were not far distant from each other ; 
and probably that Gath was nearer 
Ashdod than any of the other royal 
cities. Now Ashdod is about 10 m. 
W. of Tell es-Safieh, and Ekron the 
same distance N. by W. of the latter. 
The statements of most of the earl 
geographers as to the position of Gat. 
are not only confused. } but contradic- 
tory, probably in some measure owing 
to the fact that there was more than 
one place of the same name. But 
there is one very clear and definitive 
notice given by Eusebius, and trans- 
lated without comment or change— 
an unusual thing—by Jerome. It is 
as follows: “Gath, from which the 
Anakim and Philistians were not ex- 


254 


terminated, is now a village seen by 
such as go from Eleutheropolis to 
Diospolia, at about the fifth mile- 
stone.” (Onom. s. v. Geth.) The road 
from Eleutheropolis, now Beit Jibrtn, 
to Diospolis or Lydda, must have 
passed some distance to the E. of this 
tell, which would be distinctly seen 
on the left at about the 5th m., just 
as Eusebius says. 

The ravages of war to which Gath 
was so often appear to have 

iled it, at a comparatively early pe- 
riod, of its former glory, as it is not 
enumerated by the later prophets 
along with the other royal cities of 
Philistia (Zeph. ii. 4; Zech. ix. 5, 6). 
It is familiar to us, however, from 
childhood, as the home of Goliath 
(1 Sam. xvii. 4), and the scene of one of 
the most romantic incidents in the life 
of David, which will be read here with 
new interest (1 Sam. xxi. 10-15). When 
David fied from Saul at Gibeah, he 
went first to the high-priest Abimelech 
at Nob, and got from him a supply of 
food and the sword of Goliath. Con- 
tinuing his flight, he rashly came to 
Gath, Goliath’s own city, in the hope, 
doubtless, that he would not be re- 
cognised ; and that, as a fugitive from 
Saul's court, he would be welcomed. 
The Philistines knew him at once, 
and his fate appeared to be sealed. 
David, however, among other’ quali- 
ties, was an accomplished actor. 
Perfect coolness and fertility of ,re- 
source, in circumstances of the most 
imminent danger, were prominent cha- 
racteristics of his mind. On hearing 
the accusation of the Philistines, “ he 
feigned himself mad in their hands,”’ 
He “scrabbled on the doors of the 
gate, and let his spittle fall down upon 
his beard,”’ something like a modern 
Derwish. Madmen are privileged in 
the East now, just as they appear to 
have been then. David’s acting saved 
his life; and, embracing a favourable 
opportunity, he fled to the cave of 
Adullam. One sees how easy it was 
to escape when once without the walls 
of this border city. The wooded hills 
‘and secluded valleys adjoining it on 
the E. afford a ready asylum to the 
fagitive. A few years later David 


Route 14.—Dhikrin. 


Sect. IIL 


returned to this city; but he was then 
so formidable, either as friend or foe, 
that the Philistine princes thought it 
most politic to grant him an asylum 
among them ; and accordingly they 
gave him the town of Ziklag, situated 
somewhere southward, on the borders 
of the desert (Josh. xv. 21, 31; Neh. 
xi. 28). His residence in their land 

ined him many friends, even among 

is hereditary foes, who were true to 
him when his own son rebelled ; and 
there are few more striking examples 
of devoted attachment in the page of 
history than that of Ittai the Gittite 
(2 Sam. xv. 19-22). 


From Tell es-S&fieh we turn south- 
ward to Beit Jibrin. The road is 
somewhat rough and rugged — now 
crossing low stony ridges darkened 
with bush and bramble, and now wind- 
ing through little valleys and basins 
green with corn. Here and there, in 
the limestone rocks, are the dark open- 
ings to immense caves, generally re- 
sembling those above described at 
Deir Dubbaén. 50 min. bring us to 
Dhikrin, a poor village, situated on 
the side of a shallow wady, among 
bare, smooth rocks. Security has evi- 
dently been studied more than beauty 
or convenience in the site, for there 
are green vales and smooth slopes not 
far Fetan t. Fig and olive trees are 
here abundant; but the most interest- 
ing objects are the enormous caverns 
—one sees them on every side; and 
in riding along, the ground has that 
dull hollow sound which indicates that 
all below is excavated. Just on 
the N. of the village a number of 
these subterranean chambers have 
been converted into cisterns, which now 
afford an abundant supply of water to 
the inhabitants and their flocks. Ona 
high bank on the S. side of the vil- 
lage is a little round tower, very 
rudely built of large rough stones, 
with loopholes: this is the citadel of 
Dhikrin, and, humble as it seems, it 
has stood more than one hard si 
In the summer of 1856 it was the 
scene of a contest which, for deter- 
mined gallantry, would do honour to 
any land. While almost the whole 


S. PALESTINE, 


male population were employed in ga- 
thering in their harvest on the distant 
plain, a party of some 50 Tif&hah 
Arabs, half on dromedaries and half 
on horses, attacked the village. The 
shepherds had seen them in the dis- 
tance, and had just time to hurry their 
flocks in among the narrow crooked 
lanes and little courts ofthe houses. 
They themselves, 9 in number, rushed 
into their tower, unslung their long 
guns, and prepared for defence, while 
the women and children took refuge 
im a large cavern adjoining. The ap- 
proach to the village is difficult for 

orsemen; but the Arabs advanced, 
sure of an easy prey. <A shot from the 
tower struck their leader, and, though 
the wound was but slight, he was 
obliged to retire. Others advanced to 
the same spot, but one of their horses 
was shot dead. They now went round to 
the E. side, where the ground is com- 
paratively good, and approached ina 

ense body ; but a well-directed volley 
was poured in among them, and several 
horses and men were brought to the 
ground, Again and again they came 
on, but the shepherds received them 
with such a sharp fire that in the end 
they retreated as if determined to 
abandon the enterprise. The few shep- 
herds raised a shout of triumph; and 
the women, rushing out of the cavern, 
joined them with their shrill cries; 
but it was not long till every cry and 
shout was hushed to silence. The 
Arabs were observed deliberately to dis- 
mount from their horses and dromeda- 
ries, and picket them beyond the range 
of musketry. The wounded were 
brought in and left with a few others 
as guards. The old matchlocks—for 
some 12 or 15 of the dromedary men 
carried these weapons — were fresh 
primed. After a brief consultation 
they formed themselves into 2 divi- 
sions—one took the road to the village, 
and the other, and much the larger, 
went round by the E., evidently with 
the intention of attacking the little 
tower. The shepherds saw all this, 
and made ready for a bold defence. 
The women cheered them, and some 8 
or 10 of the strongest filled their 
aprons with stones and threw them 


Route 14.— Eleutheropolis. 


255 


into the rude citadel; then running 
down to a neighbouring house, they 
armed themseves with clubs, shovels, 
and whatever other weapon came 
to hand, and afterwards joined the 
men, There was now a moment of in- 
tense anxiety. The Arabs were seen to 
crawl along under shelter of rocks, and 
banks, and bushes: but at last, on a 
given signal, they rose up and rushed 
towards the tower, firing their match- 
locks as {they advanced. Not a shot 
was heard in return till the whole 
body were within 20 yds. Then 5 of the 
shepherds fired and 5 of the Arabs 
immediately fell; the others stopped, 
and in a moment were saluted by a 
shower of stones from the women: 
they turned to fly, but their leader, 
drawing his sword, urged them for- 
ward, On reaching the side of the 
little fortress 3 more shots were poured 
in among them with deadly effect. 
The leader, however, scaled the rude 
wall, and was in the act of drawing a 
pistol to fire down on those within, 
when a woman felled him to the earth 
with a blow of a club. Another Arab, 
equally courageous, shared the same 
fate, and the rest fied in disorder. The 
other band had in the mean time pe- 
netrated the village, and were driving 
off the flocks; but a few shots dis- 
persed them too, not however until in 
revenge they had fired 2 of the houses, 
The bold-hearted women now ran out 
of the cave and tower, and, heedless of 
random shots poured in upon them 
from a distance, succeeded in extin- 


guishing the flames. 


Beit Jibrin, ELEUTHEROPOLIS, or 
Betnogasaris, is 1 hr. 10 min. from 
Dhikrtn. The village is situated ina 
little nook in the side of a long green 
valley which lis shut in by low hills 
and ridges, partially covered with dark 
copae. The ancient ruins are of con- 
siderable extent: they consist of the 
Temains of a strong fortress, standing 
within an irregular enclosure encom: 
passed by a massive wall of large 
squared stones uncemented. A greater 
part of this outer wall is completely 
ruinous; but the N. side, whic 


256 


Route 14,— Eleutheropolis. 


Sect. ITI. 


skirts the bank of a little ravine, is | down from the 8S. between low ridges 


still several feet high. Along it on 
the inside, toward the W., is a range of 
vaulta, with round arches, of the same 
age as the wall iteelf. They are now 
nearly covered up by accumulations 
of rubbish, though some of them are 
ecoupiod as stores and even dwellings. 
The length of this enclosure is about 
600 ft, and its breadth was perhaps 
the same. Within the area thus formed 
are the ruins of a castle of the same 
date, but subsequently repaired. An 
Arabic inscription over the gateway 
bears the date a.m. 958 (4.D. 1551). 
The castle is near 200 ft. square. The 
whole interior is filled with arches and 
vaults—some of them now inaccessible 
from the vast masses of superincum- 
bent ruins. Along the 8. side are the 
walls and part of the groined roof of a 
fine old chapel. Several marble shafts 
and huge heaps of hewn stones en- 
cumber the interior and the surround- 
ing area. The houses of the village 
lie close to the castle on the W. and 
8., extending 200 or 300 yds. up the 
declivity formed by the junction of 
the ravine from the E. with the main 
valley which runs nearly from 8. to N. 
A few of the houses are large and sub- 
stantial, belonging to a celebrated fa- 
mily of sheikhe called Beit ’Az&zeh. 
This family ruled the district for cen- 
turies, but were greatly humbled by 
Ibrahim Pasha in consequence of their 
connexion with the rebellion of 1834. 
The weakness of the Turkish govern- 
ment is now giving them an opportu- 
nity of regaining their influence, and 
complaints were made to me, 
during the present year (1857), of their 
rapacity. 
Going up the ravine eastward for 
200 yards or so, we find other massive 
foundations along the 8. bank; and 


of soft limestone, which here and 
there rises in white masses over the 
dark shrubs. The bottom is covered 
with green fields, dotted with vener- 
able olives. A guide from the village 
will conduct usa few hundred yards up 
this valley, and then point out on the 
western bank the entrance to some 
most remarkable caves — unique in 
character, and unequalled in extent 
by any in Syria. hey bear some 
resemblance to those at Deir Dubbin, 
described above; but they are much 
larger, and of more careful workman- 
ship. “ Besides domes,’ says Dr, 
Robinson, “there are here also long 
arched rooms, with the walls in gene- 
ral cut quite smooth. One of these 
was nearly 100 ft. in length; having 
along its sides, about 10 ft. from the 
floor, a line of ornamental work like 
a@ cornice. On one side lower down 
were two niches at some distance 
apart, which seemed once to have had 
images standing in them; but the 
stone was too much decayed to de- | 
termine with certainty. These apart- 
ments are all lighted by openings 
from above. The entrance to the 
whole range of caverns is by a broad 
arched passage of some elevation, and 
we were surprised at the taste and 
skill displayed in the workmanship.” 
On the opposite side of the valley, a 
little higher up, we come to others 
still more extensive—occupying, in 
fact, almost the whole interior of the 
ridge. Here are long ranges of vast 
bell-shaped chambers—some of them 
70 ft. in diameter and 60 high—con- 
nected by arched doorways, and wind- 
ing subterranean passages. A few are 
entirely dark; but most of them are 
lighted by a circular aperture at the 
top. Side chambers, like galleries, 


a beautifully built well, apparently of may occasionally be seen, opening 


the Roman age, opposite them on the 
N. bank. It still contains water, 
though at a depth of 60 or 70 ft.— 
whether spring or rain water I did not 
earn. 


Such are the remains of the old city 
itself; but we have other antiquities 
before us far more interesting. 
Inain valley, as has been stat 


The | 
comes | 


high up in the wall, and pierced with 
arched recesses like those of an an- 
cient tomb. In one cave is a small 
fountain, with two short Cufic inscrip- 
tions beside it; and in another I saw 
on the domed roof figures and rude 
characters apparently resembling those 
of the Sinaitic inscriptions; but the 
light was too dim to copy them. At 


S. PALESTINE, 


one place the roofs of a range of them 
have partially fallen in, breaking 
down here and there the thin rocky 
partitions. The appearance of the 
caves here is singularly wild and 
grand—huge fragments of arched rock 
stretching out far overhead from the 
sides, as if upheld by some unseen 
hand — jagged fissures and breaks 
through which the sunlight streams, 
veiled here and there by the branch 
of a tree or long straggling brambles 
—-vistas, long and gloomy, through 
archgd door and broken wall. Virgi 
might have taken them as models for 
his caves of olus. 

Leaving these, and passing the nar- 
row openings of others, we go on to 
a picturesque guin, situated near the 
head of the valley, about 1 m. from 
Beit Jibrin. This is the Church of 
St. Anne. Only the eastern end now 
stands, including the niche of the 
great altar and that of a side chapel; 
but the entire foundations can be 
traced. The style of architecture is 
chaste and massive. In the rocks 
around are immense caverns, similar 
to those already described ; and in the 
bottom of the valley are the prostrate 
ruins of a small village. 

Just opposite the Church of St. 
Anne, on the W. side of the wady, is 
a white tell, in shape a truncated cone, 
regular in outline, as if formed—as is 
probable—by the hand of man. It is 
evidently an ancient site, and we ac- 
cordingly proceed to examine it. The 
easiest way is round the head of the 
valley; and here we find another re- 
markable set of caverns, now con- 
verted into cisterns, and filled with 
good water. Beyond these, at the 
foot of the tell, are rock-tombs, one of 
which is 50 ft. long and 20 wide, with 
ranges of recesses on each side for 
bodies. The tell is composed of soft 
cretaceous limestone; its flat top is 
about 200 yards in diameter. In se- 
veral places round the sides are foun- 
dations of hewn stones, and other 
traces of old buildings, among which 
we observe the entrances to immense 
caverns which occupy the whole interior 
of the hill. The following account of 
those to which we enter on the W. 


Route 14.—Eleutheropohs. 


257 


side is given by Dr. Robinson: 
“ Lighting several candles, we entered 
by a narrow and difficult passage 
from a pit overgrown with briers, and 
found ourselves in a dark labyrinth 
of galleries and apartments, all cut 
from the solid rock, and occupying the 
bowels of the hill. Here were some 
dome-shaped chambers as before; 
others were extensive rooms, with 
roofs supported by columns of the 
same rock left in excavating ; and all 
were connected with each other by 
passages apparently without order or 
plan. Several other apartments were 
still more singular. These were also 
in the form of tall domes, 20 ft. or 
more in diameter, and from 20 to 30 
high; they were entered by a door 
near the top, from which a staircase 
cut in the same rock wound down 
around the wall to the bottom. We 
descended into several of the rooms; 
but found nothing at the bottom and 
no appearance of any other door or 
passage. We could discover no trace 
of inscriptions; nor anything, indeed, 
which might afford the slightest clue 
for unravelling the mystery in which 
the history and object of these re- 
markable excavations are enveloped.” 
There are several other clusters open- 
ing from the 8S. and E. sides, which 
I partially explored; though, not hav- 
ing a thr which is essential to 
one’s safety amid such a labyrinth of 
es and doors, I was afraid to 
penetrate to the end of any of them. 
These are unquestionably the most 
remarkable excavations in Syria; and 
almost rival the Catacombs of Rome. 
They are wholly different in style and 
form from the rock-tombs of Jeru- 
salem and the grottoes of Petra. It is 
to be hoped that some patient anti- 
quary will ere long undertake the 
task of a thorough exploration; and, 
perhaps, bring to light some relic or 
inscription tending to clear up their 
origin and history. After a few words 
on the history of Beit Jibrin, and this 
singular tell, I shall state the most 
probable theory as to the origin of 
these caverns. 
The history of Beit Jibrin, when 
compared with that of other sites of 


258 


far joes note around it, may be re- 
as modern. Betogabra, “the 
ouse of Gabra or Gabrael,” was the 


original name, and is first mentioned 
by lemy in the inning of the 
2nd centy.; and again in the Peutinger 


Tables somewhat later. Its new name, 

is, “Free City,” first oc- 
curs upon coins in the time of Sep- 
timius Severus (4.p. 202-3). That 
emperor, during his visit to Palestine, 
conferred important privileges on se- 
veral cities; and this was one of the 
number. Eusebius is the first writer 
who mentions Eleutheropolis; which 
was in his time the capital of a large 
province, and one of the most flou- 
rishing places in Palestine. It was 
the seat:of a bishop, and was so 
well known as to be taken as a 
central point from which the posi- 
tions of more than 20 other towns 
were determined. Epiphanius, the 
author of the work ‘De Ponderibus 
et Mensuris,’ and one of the most 
energetic opponents of the heresies of 
Origen, was born in a village 3 m. 
from this city, in the beginning of the 
4th centy., and is hence often called 
an Eleutheropolitan. In the year 796, 
little more then 14 centy. after the 
conquest of Syria by the Muslema, 
Eleutheropolis, hitherto so prosperous, 
was razed to the ground and left com- 
pletely desolate. ‘The Greek lan- 
guage now gave place to the Arabic; 
and Eleutheropolis lost its proud 
name and its prouder rank together. 
Like so many other cities, the old 
name, which had probably never been 
lost by the peasantry, was revived 
among writers; and we thus find Bei- 
geberin, or some form like it, con- 
stantly in use after the 8th centy. In 
the 12th centy. the Crusaders found 
the place in ruins, and built a fortress 
on the old foundations to check the 
incursions of the Muslem ison of 
Ascalon; the remains of this fortress, 
and the chapel connected with it, .are 
those above described. Its defence 
was intrusted to the Knights Hos- 
pitallers. “After the fatal battle of 
Hattin, and the capture of Ascalon by 
Saladin in 1187, Beit Jibrin fell into 
the hands of the Saracens. It was 


Route 14.—Mareshah. 


Sect. III. 


retaken by king Richard of England, 
and remained 50 years in the hands 
of the Franks. It was finally subdued 
by Bibars; and has since, like 1000 
other places, crumbled to ruin under 
the blight of Mohammedan rule. 

Two traditions have found a “local 
habitation’ at Beit Jibrin. The first 
is that which places here the miracu- 
lous fountain which sprang from the 


jaw-bone Samson wielded with such 


success against the Philistines. (Jud. 
xv. 14-20.) Antoninus Martyr in the 
7th centy. says the fountain of Samson 
was still pointed out at Eleuthero- 
polis; and the tradition remained in 
the Greek Church, though the site of 
the city was forgotten. The other 
legend appears to beeof an earlier 
date. In a life of Ananias, an al- 
leged saint and martyr of the Ist 
centy., it is affirmed that he was first 
one of the 70 disciples; then bishop 
of Damascus, where he restored Paul's 
sight (Acts ix. 17); then a noted 
worker of countless miracles at this 
city of Eleutheropolis; and finally a 
martyr in Damascus. 


Not far from Eleutheropolis was si- 
tuated the ancient Mareshah, enume- 
rated by Joshua among the cities of 
the plain of Judah (Josh. xv. 44), and 
subsequently fortified, with numerous 
others, by Rehoboam. (2 Chron, xi. 
8.) Eusebius states that in his time 
its ruins were shown in the 2nd m. from 
Eleutheropolis. This fact has led 
Dr. Robinson to identify it with the 
singular tell near the Church of 8t. 
Anne, 14 m. from the city. If this 
yiew be correct, then the valley lead- 
ing up to it from Beit Jibrin must 
have been the scene of the great 
battle between the Israelites and 
Ethiopians, We read in 2 Chron. xiv., 
that Asa had an army of 580,000 men 
out of Judah’ and Benjamin; “and 
there came out against them Zerah 
the Ethiopian, with an host of a thou- 
sand thousand, and three hundred 
chariots; and came unto Mareshah. 
Then Asa went out against him, and 
they set the battle in array in the 
valley of Zephathah, at Mareshah." 
The vast army of Zerah was soon 


S. PALESTINE. 


routed, and the victorious Israelites 
pursued them to Gerar. 


The Caves.—It appears from history 
that during the Babylonish captivity 
the Edomites overran and occupied 
the whole southern region of Pales- 
tine, which is for this reason frequently 
called by Josephus Idumea. Judas 
Maccabseus took from the Idumeans 
Hebron, Marissa (or Mareshah), and 
Ashdod; and John Hyrcanus, after 
again capturing Dora and Marissa, 
compelled the Idumean inhabitants to 
conform to the Jewish laws. Jerome 
calls the Idumeans Horites, and says 
they dwelt within the borders of 
Eleutheropolis. Now it is well known 
that the aborigines of Idumea proper 
were actually Horites, that is Tro- 
glodytes, “dwellers in caves,” who, 
though subdued by the Edomites, 
continued to live among them, and 
apparently united with them, so as to 
form one people. Jerome further in- 
forms us that Idumea, under which 
name he includes the whole country 
from the plain of Philistia to the 
mountains of Edom, was full of ha- 


bitations tn cavea—the people prefer- | lag 


ring them, both because of their secu- 
rity, and coolness during the heat of 
summer. Dr. Robinson suggests that 
the caves round Beit J ibein, Deir 
Dubban, and other villages in this 
district, may have been the work of 
Idumean Troglodytes. This view at- 
taches to these caverns still additional 
interest, connecting them with the ex- 
cavations in the valley of Petra. 


HEBRON TO ELEUTHEROPOLIS, 


Some travellers may wish to make 
their way into Philistia by Hebron, 
and I shall, therefore, in this place 
trace the route from thence to Beit 
Jibrin—the distance being 6h. For 
the road from Jerusalem to Hebron, 
and a description of the latter town, 
see Rtes. 7 and 6. 

There are two roads from Hebron 
to Beit Jibrin—a northern passing 
near TerkQmieh, the ancient Trico- 


Route 14.——Hebron to Eleutheropolis. 


259 


mias; and a southern by Teffah and 
Idhna. We shall take the latter, as the 
former will come in on the way from 
Hebron to Yafa. (Rte. 18.) Leaving 
Hebron, we proceed nearly north 

up the rich valley of Eshcol, still ce- 
lebrated for its vineyards (Num. xiii. 
23, 24); and leaving the venerable 
oak in a field to the rt. Ascending 
gently for 10 or 15 min., we reach the 
summit of a ridge, and one of the 
highest points in Palestine. Descend- 
ing again gradually, the road to Ter- 
kfmieh branches to the rt., and we 
advance due W. to Teffih, 1 h. 45 min. 
from Hebron. It is an old village 
with the shattered ruins of a fortress 
among the houses, It stands on the 
crest of a ridge, encompassed by 
olives and vineyards. On the N. and 
S. are deep, well-cultivated valleys, 
converging toward the W. and meeting 
at the distance of about 2m. The 
name and position show this to be 
the site of Beth-Ta . (Josh. xv. 
53.) About 3 m. 8S. by W. we can 
see from this spot a little wely crown- 
ing a rocky peak; its name is Neby 
Nah, and it stands close to the vil- 
e of Dfra, probably the Adoraim 
of the Bible, one of the towns forti- 
fied by Rehoboam, (2 Chron. xi. 9.) 
Josephus mentions if as one of the 
chief stations of the Idumeans during 
their occupation of southern Pales- 
tine; and as captured by Hyrcanus 
along with Mareshah. It was subse- 
quently rebuilt and fortified by Ga- 
binius, the Roman governor of Syria. 


From Teffih we deseend by a steep 
zigzag path to the point where the 
two valleys meet. (1 h. 15 min.) A 
road comes down that on the left from 
Dara, 1 h. distant, and another passes 
up that on the rt. to Taiyibeh, a vil- 
lage 45 min. off. The glen formed 
by the junction of the two is called 
Wady el-Feranj—a name probably 
borrowed from the Crusaders. It is 
a deep narrow ravine, with bold rocky 
banks. Passing down it for ? b., we 
emerge from the central mountain 
range of Judm#a beside the little vil- 
lage of Idhna, which stands at their 
western base. Before us is the hill 


260 


country already referred to, stretch- 
ing away in dark swelling ridges, and 
pic ue green vales, to the great 

lain of Philistia. Here as elsewhere 
it is studded with many villages and 
more ruins. Wady el-Feran) bends 
northward ; and a smaller wady break- 
ing down from the low ridge on the 
W. divides Idhna into 2 quarters and 
into 2 factions headed by 2 families 
of sheikhs, who often lead on their 
followers to bloody skirmishes. The 
old town of Jedna, mentioned by 
Eusebius, probably stood on the top 
of the hill above the northern quar- 
ter; and here Dr. Robinson picked up 
a handful of marble tessarx, such as 
is found in almost every ancient site 
in Palestine. Jedna was 6 Rom. m. 
from Eleutheropolis on the road to 
Hebron, and thus forms strong cor- 
roborative evidence of the identity of 
Beit Jibrin with the former city. 


The road passes up the glen be- 
tween the 2 rival quarters of Idhna; 
then across a low ridge; and then 
down over rocky ground into a little 
glen, through which it winds west- 
ward. In 45 min. a ruined village 
called Beit "Alam occupies a low 
mound to the rt.; and soon after pass- 
ing it we observe traces of an ancient 
road, and marks of terraces on the 
desolate hill-sides—telling a sad tale 
of former industry and populousness, 
and present desertion and neglect. 
In 45 mih. more we enter the wady 
of Beit Jibrin, pass the old church of 
St. Anne, and soon reach the ruins of 
Eleutheropolis. 


From Beit Jibrin to Gaza is a long 
stage, but, as the road is good and the 
plain level, we may easily ride it in 
8 h. There are 2 routes as far as 
Bureir—the northern leading 
Zeiteh (1 h. 20 min.), a small ancient 
village on the edge of the plain, and 
Falijeh (1 h. 30 min.), a large pros- 
perous village in the centre of a plain 
of great fertility, to Bureir (2 h. 10 
min.); the southern by es- Sukka- 
riyeh. There is little difference in 


Route 14.— Eleutheropolis to Gaza. 


Sect. II. 


the length; but as the latter takes — 
us past the sites of Eglon and Lachizh, 


we shall follow it. 


From the valley of Beit Jibrin the 


road crosses a series of low hills and 
ridges, in a south-western direction, 
and in 1h, 10 min. passes the small 
village of el-Kubeibeh, situated on a 
barren stony tell to the left. For 
another hour the country continues 
rocky and undulating; and then we 
emerge on the great plain; it is not 
so fertile, however, at this place as it 
is farther N. round the singular iso- 
lated hill of ’Arak el-Menshiyeh, which 
we see in the distance. In 4h. more 
we come to the deserted village es- 
Sukkariyeh, “the Sugary,”’—a name 
which seems to imply that the sugar- 
cane was at one time cultivated here; 
it has, doubtless, taken the place of 
some more ancient appellation, for 
there are, in and around the village, 
foundations of large hewn stones, 
fragments of marble columns, and a 
Corinthian capital—all pointing to an 
age of prosperity. It occupies the 
site probably of some of those old 
cities of the plain (Shephelah) men- 
tioned in the book of Joshua (ch. xv.). 
50 min. from es-Sukkariyeh is ’Ajlan, 
a shapeless mass of ruins covering a 
low round hillock. The name and 

sition identify it with EGLon, which 

oshua captured, and afterwards gave 
to the tribe of Judah. (Josh. x. 36, xii. 
12, xv. 39.) 


Riding on over the plain ? h. more, 
we reach Um Lakis. Here is a low 
flat hill covered with heaps of stones, 


with here and there the fragments cf | 


a marble shaft. At its south-eastern 
base is an old well, now nearly filled 
with rubbish—watering - troughs and 
pieces of columns lying in confusion 
round its mouth. The name calls to 


past | mind another ancient city frequently 


mentioned in Scripture history. Afte 
the defeat of the Amorites at Gibeon, 
Joshua, a8 we have seen above, pur- 
sued them to Azekah and Makkedah: 
from the latter place he marched 
upon Libnah and took it; and from 
Libnah he passed to Lachish, “anil 


S. PALEstTINneE. 


encamped against it and fought 
against it; and the Lord delivered 
Lachish into the hand of Israel.... 
And jfrom Lachish Joshua passed on 
to Eglon, and all Israel with him.... 
and they took it the same day,” From 
Eglon he continued his triumphant 
march to Hebron. (Josh. x, 29-36.) 
This passage seems to me sufficient 
to show that the present Um Lakis is, 
ag the name would suggest, identical 
with the ancient Lachish. If we ad- 
mit the identity of "Ajlan with Eglon, 
the other cannot well be denied; and 
in several other passages of Scripture 
Lachish and Eglon are mentioned in 
such a way as shows that they were not 
far apart. (See Josh. x. 33-35, xv. 39, 
xii.11, 12.) Dr. Robinson, indeed, objects 
to this identification, chiefly upon two 
grounds: First, because Lachish must 
have been a place of great strength, 
and there are here no traces of such 
fortifications as might be supposed 
sufficient to resist for a time at least 
the Assyrian army. (2 Kings xviii. 14. 
But it must be Te mbered that for 
twenty centuries or more Lachish has 
been a ruin; and it has long been the 
practice in this land to use ruins as 
quarries. I would refer in reply to 
the case of Ashdod, which stood the 
longest siege on record, and yet now 
it has no more traces of fortifications 
than Um Lakis; and to that of Jota- 
pata (Rte. 23), which was strongly for- 
tified in the Ist cent., and yet does 
not retain a trace of its fortifications 
now. Second, because Eusebius and 
Jerome place Lachish “seven Roman 
miles from Eleutheropolis towards the 
south.” The words of Eusebius, how- 
ever, are not “towards the south,” 
but “southward on the way to Darum”’ 
—rnpos véroy amdvrav es Td Aapwuay ; 
and Jerome’s words are simply, tn 
septimo milliario ab Eleutheropolt eun- 
tibus Daroman. (Onom. s. v, Lachis.) 
The name Darum is applied by both 
these authors to a district in the S.W. 
of Palestine. During the Orusades 
there was a fortress erected on the 
ruins of a very old Greek convent 
called Darum, on the coast, a few miles 
S. of Gaza. It will thus be seen that 
the direction of Um L&kis from Eleu- 


Route 14.—Lachish, 


261 


theropolis corresponds to Eusebius’s 
statement. The distance, it is true, is 
much greater; but the numbers in 
the Onomasticon are often inaccurate, 
Lachish was fortified by Rehoboam 
(2 Chron. xi. 9), and was afterwards 
besieged by the Assyrians under Sen-. 
nacherib. It was while the Assyrian 
army lay before Lachish, and the 
neighbouring city Libnah, that the 
remarkable events recorded in 2 Kings 
Xviii. 13-37, and xix., occurred. Then 
Hezekiah sent to Sennacherib the 
humble message—“I have offended; 
return from me; that which thou 
puttest on me will I bear.” 300 ta- 
lents of silver and 30 talents of gold 
were demanded. The royal treasures 
were emptied ; the doors and pillars of 
the Temple were stripped; all that 
could be gathered was sent to Senna- 
cherib; but he was not satisfied. 
Three of his generals were sent to 
Jerusalem to demand immediate, un- 
conditional surrender; the speech of 


) | Rabshekah, one of the three, is well 


known ; but his blasphemy, joined to 
Hezekiah’s prayers, saved Israel. He- 
zekiah prayed, “Lord, bow down 
thine ear, and hear the words of Sen- 
nacherib, which hath sent him to re- 
proach the living God.” His prayer 
was answered. That very night the 
“ angel of the Lord smote in the camp 
of the Assyrians an hundred four- 
score and five thousand.” The plain 
near Lachish was the scene of that 
fearful act of judgment; and here we 
will read with mingled awe and ad- 
miration Byron’s noble ode :— 


“ The Aseyrian came down like the wolf on the 
0 
And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and 


gold ; 

And the sheen of their spears was like stars 
on the sea, 
When the blue wave rolls nightly on deep 

Galilee. 


“ Like the leaves of the forest when summer 
is green, 
That host with their banners at sunset were 


seen ; 

Like the leaves of the forest when autumn 
hath blown, 

That host on the morrow lay wither’d and 
strown. 


262 
« For nthe Angel of Death spread his wings on 
: t, 
And breathed on the face of the foe as he 
pase'd ; 
And the eyes of the slee wax'd deadly 
and chil, pers 


And their hearts but once heaved, and for 
ever were still! 


“ And there lay the steed with his nostril all 


w » 

But through it there roll’d not the breath of 
his pride : 

And foam of his gasping lay white on 


the turf, 
And gold as the spray of the rock-beating 
surf, 


‘¢ And there lay the rider distorted and pale, 
With the dew on his brow, and the rust on 
his mail ; 
And the tents were all silent, the banners 


alone, 
The lances unlifted, the trumpet unblown. 
* And the widows of Asher are loud in their 
wa 
And the idols are broke in the temple of 


Baal; 

And the might of the Gentile, unsmote by 
the sword, 

Hath at like gnow at the glance of the 


From Um L&kis we continue our 
course nearly due W. across the plain 
to Bureir (45 min.), a large flourish- 
ing village. It has a good well and 
a large open tank; the water is raised 
by a wheel similar to those so com- 
mon in Egypt. ~Several palm-trees 
and a few willows here relieve some- 
what the bleakness of the scenery; 
and these, with the activity that pre- 
vails, and the signs of industry in the 
fields and gardens, give a look of pros- 
perity to the place. Wady Simsim, 
which drains the whole district round 
Eleutheropolis, winds across the plain 
a little to the 8S. of the village; it is 
a broad depression, with a narrow, dry 
torrent-bed, deeply furrowed in the 
soil, runing through its centre. Our 
road now takes a south-westerly di- 
rection along the rt. bank of the wady 
till we get opposite the village of 
Simsim (35 min.), where we cross the 
torrent-bed. This village stands amid 
a little grove of trees, about # m. N. 
of the road. In } h. from Simsim 
Nijid is a few hundred yards on our 1.— 
a small wretched-looking hamlet, built 


\ 


Route 14.—Gaza. 


on the side of a low bleak ridge. In 
another } h. Wady Simsim—here 1 m. 
in breadth—sweeps round to the rt., 
and, ing Dimreh and Deir Ethneid, 
seen away in front, continues its course 
through white sandy downs to the sea 
near Ascalon. Our road, still going 
S.W., crosses the low broad ridge on 
the 8. bank of the wady, and descends 
ually to Beit Hanfin (55 min. 
m Nijid). This little congregation 
of mud hovels is surrounded by a few 
gardens with formidable fences of 
prickly pear, and is garnished with 
@ more than ordi profusion of 
ualid women and naked children, 
who seem to spend most of their time 
dabbling like ducks in a large tank 
of muddy water. The whole scene 
i y reminds one of the valley of 
the Nile. We now cross diagonally 
another wady or depression, which de- 
clines northward and joins the Simsim 
near Deir Ethneid. Luxuriant corn- 
fields line its banks, extending south- 
ward as far as we can see, © soon 
leave it, however, and enter among 
the sand-hills and olive-groves of 
Gaza-—the latter the largest and rich- 
est in Palestine, and only surpassed 
in Syria by those of Beyrout and Da- 
mascus, In 1 h. 10 min. from Beit 
Hanfin we pitch our tents beside the 
ancient city. 


Gaza, now called Ghuzzeh, is a town | 


of some 15,000 Inhab., of whom from 
200 to 300 are Christians and the 
rest Mohammedans. It is situated 
about 8 m. from the sea, with an in- 
terveni 
naked of drifting sand. On the 
§.E. and N. are extensive gardens 
hedged by prickly pear, and abound- 
ing with apricot, mulberry, and palm 
trees, The rich soil, too, gives splen- 


did crops of melons, cucumbers, and | 


other vegetables. On the N. and 
N.E., beyond the gardens, is the olive- 


grove above referred to. On the E, , 


a low line of bare hills—they might 
almost be called mounds—divides this 
fertile tract from the great plain; and 
the highest point is crowned with a 
wely called Mukim el-Muntaér. The 
traveller should not fail to visit this 


Sect. ITT. 


belt, some 2 m. wide, of | 


S. PALESTINE. 


wely, as it is only $ h.’s walk from the 
town, and it commands a noble view 
of the whole surrounding country. 
From the summit the eye takes in at 
a glance the straggling town below, 
stretching outits suburbs among verd- 
ant orchards; the white sandy downs 
beyond, threatening to swallow up in 
their resistless progress all vegetation 
and all life; and the sparkling Medi- 
terranean away on the horizon. On 
the 8. is seen the road to Egypt— 
trodden by the Pharaohs thousands 
of years ago—running on, a white me- 
andering line, till it disappears in the 
scarcely distinguishable Wady She- 
ri’ah. This wady we can trace by the 
occasional mounds on its banks, and 
the dark depressions of ‘its bed, far 
across the Jesert toward Beersheba 
from which it comes; and we remem- 
ber that in the fine pasture-lands 
along its side the patriarchs Abraham 


and Isaac fed their flocks, as the] i 


Bedawin do still, while they pitched 
their tents at Gerar. (Gen. xx. 1-16; 
xxvi. 1, 17.) The adventurous ex- 
plorer, who would undertake a journey 
along it from the sea to Beersheba, 
could scarcely fail to discover the site 
of the old city of Abimelech; for a 
celebrated monastery stood on the 
spot so late as the middle of the 5th 
centy., and its ruins cannot altogether 
have disappeared. On the E. and 
N.E. spreads out the broad undulating 
plain, patched with green and red in 
the foreground, but dissolving into a 
uniform gray in the distance, and 
backed on the horizon by the blue 
mountains of Judwa. There can 
scarcely be a doubt that this is the 
hill to the top of which Samson car- 
det the gates of Gaza, (Jud. xvi. 

The town itself looks like a collec- 
tion of large villages that chance had 
placed near each other. The nucleus 
stands on a broad-topped low hill, 
which constitutes a kind of “ West 
End,” containing the Serai, the Great 
Mosk, the government offices, and the 
houses of the chief citizens—all stone 
buildings, once substantial and in re- 
pair, though no one can tell how long 
ago. On the §8.E, is a large suburb, 


more densel populated than the hill ; 


263 


on the 8.W. is a smaller one; and 
on the N. is another still smaller. 
All these. are of mud architecture, 
differing in nothing from the villages 
of the surrounding plain, except that 
here and there there is a large mosk 
and minaret. The hill seems to be 
composed in a great measure of rub- 
bish, the débris of ancient structures ; 
even now much of it is covered with 
irregular heaps, amid which we meet 
with broken arches, pieces of walls, 
and heavy masses of solid masonry. 
The whole eastern side of the hill, 
in fact, is thus encumbered, with the 
exception of 2 or 3 little patches now 
converted into gardens. The great 
mosk stands nearly in the centre of 
this hill, and is distinguished by its 
tall octagon minaret and peaked roof. 
It is the only building in Gaza either 
historically or architecturally interest- 
ing. It was originally a Christian 
church, founded, says tradition, by 
the empress Helena, and dedicated 
to St. John the Baptist. The interior 
is divided into nave and aisles by 
ranges of Corinthian columns; and 
there is a clerestory also supported 
by columns. The length of the build- 
ing is 110 ft.; and the recess for the 
altar is 20 more. Like some other 
ancient churches in this country it 
faces the N. On the W. side an ad- 
ditional low aisle has been added in 
an inferior style of architecture. 

The present town has no gates, no 
fortifications, no defences of any kind; 
and yet from it position one would 
think it had more need of them than 
any other place in Syria. It is not 
only a frontier town; but being si- 
tuated on the borders of the desert, it 
is open at any moment to a Bedawy 
raid. Yet it never suffers; and the 
secret of its safety is just this—the 
inhabitants are themselves half free- 
booters half receivers, whom the Be- 
dawin deem it more politic to conci- 
liate than to plunder. That the city 
had once gates we know, and tradition 
still points out the position of one of 
them, said to be that whose doors, 

sts, and bars Samson carried off on 

is shoulder; it is on the E. side, 


264 Route 14. 
below an old burying-ground. Not' 
far from it is a Mukam in honour of | 


Samson, which the Muslems say is 
also his tomb. Toward the 8. is an- 
other spot called Bab ed - Da&rén, 
doubtless from the ancient fortress of 
that name on the road to Egypt. 
Some suppose that the ancient city 
of Gaza stood considerably nearer the 
shore than the present site; and 
Strabo says it was only 7 stadia from 
the sea. Jerome, too, tells us that 
scarcely a vestige of old Gaza re- 
mained. in his time, and that the town 
then existing was built in a different 
place. But the historical evidence 
searcely goes the length of proof. 
Cities have changed their places, Tyre 
for instance; and the advance of the 
shifting sands may have driven Gaza 
eastward. The following remarks of 
Dr. Keith upon this subject are worthy 
of special attention. ‘In less than 
a mile from the present town, on a 
direct line towards the sea, the sand 
commences and all vegetation ceases, 
For more than a mile and a half in 
the same direction the whole space 
is covered with sand, and in every 
hollow innumerable diminutive pieces 
of pottery and marble are spread over 
the surface. About twelve years ago 
attempts were made in various places 
to cultivate the sand, and hewn stones 
were everywhere found, where the 
ground was dug for planting trees, 
near to the old port, and between it 
and the modern town. Passing along 
the shore to the south, we came to the 
remains of an old wall, which reached 
to the sea. Ten large frag- 
ments of wall were imbedded in the 
sand, or resting on it. At the farther 
distance of about two miles are frag- 
ments of another wall. Four inter- 
mediate fountains still exist, nearly 
entire, in a line along the coast, which 
doubtless pertained to the ancient 
port of Gaza. For a short distance 
inland the débris is less frequent, as 
if marking the space between it and 
the ancient city; but it again becomes 
plentiful in every hollow. About 
half a mile from the sea we saw three 
pedestals of beautiful marble. And 
many stones had been taken to Gaza 


Sect. ITI. 


from a spot near the sea, where an 
attempt had been made to form a 
garden; but where the trees were 
again partly buried in the sand. Holes 
are still to be seen from which hewn 
stones have been taken; and the 
former secretary of Ibrahim Pasha at 
Gaza stated that all the way between 
the present town and the sea hewn 
stones of various sizes had been taken 
out of the sand, and carried to Gaza 
for building.” 

Gaza is one of the oldest cities in 
the world. It ranks along with Da- 
mascus, Sidon, and Hebron. Even 
before Abraham left his father-land 
Gaza stood on the southern border 
of Canaan. (Gen. x. 19.) The abori- 
ginal inhabitants—Avim or Hivites of 
the family of Canaan (Deut. ii. 23; 
comp. Josh. xiii. 3, and Gen. x. 17) 
—were dispossessed by the Caphtorim, 
an Egyptian tribe allied to the Phi- 
listines. (Gen. x. 13, 14; with Deut. ii. 
23.) It subsequently became one of 
the 5 royal cities of Philistia, and 
the home of a family of giants, de- 


—Gaza. 


scendants of Anak, whose formidable |. 


stature and warlike character alarmed 
the Hebrew spies, and spread dismay 
through the whole host of Israel. 
Joshua extended his conquests to 
Gaza, but did not subdue this re- 
markable people. “There was none 
of the Analcinis left in the land of the 
children of Israel: only in Gaza, in 
Gath, and in Ashdod there remained.” 
(Josh. xi. 21, 22.) The city was af- 


terwards taken by the tribe of Judah | 


(Jud. i, 18); but the warlike Philis- 
tines soon recovered possession, and 


in their turn subdued and enslaved | 


the Israelites. After 40 years of op- 
pression (Jud. xiii. 1) Samson ap- 
peared as the champion and avenger 
of his people and the tragic close of 
his eventful life has given Gaza an 
imperishable fame. e have all read 
it many a time in childhood; and we 
will now read it on the spot with a 
fresh interest, as given in Jud. xvi. 
21-31. 

When poor Samson was betrayed 


by the incomparable duplicity of De. © 


lilah, the Philistines “put out his 


eyes, and brought him down to Gaza.” | 


S. PALESTINE. 


Here the blind captive—crushed in 
spirit by the memory of his wrongs— 
was bound with fetters of brass, and 
set to grind in prison; an office so 
menial in the East that none but wo- 
men will perform it. But the day of 
vengeance came ere long. The whole 
nobility of Philistia assembled in the 
great temple of Dagon to offer sacri- 
fices of thanksgiving for the fall of 
their most powerful foe. When their 
hearts were merry they called for 
Samson to give them sport. He came 
—the poor blind giant—his heavy 
fctiers clanking as he was led in by 
a little boy. The temple was full; 
8000 men and women turned their 
eyes upon him. He could not see 
their exulting looks, but the scornful 
laugh and triumphant shout rent his 
very heart. “QO Lord God, remember 
me, I pray thee, and strengthen me, I 
pray thee, only this once, O God, that 
I may be at once avenged of the Phi- 
listines for my two eyes,” Such was 
his affecting, earnest petition. Then 
seizing the two pillars that supported 
the temple, “he bowed himself with 
all his might,” and in a moment the 
8000 spectators were buried beneath 
its ruins. “So the dead which he 
slew in his death were more than 
they which he slew in his life.” 

The next important event in the 
history of Gaza is its siege and cap- 
ture by Alexander the Great. It was 
then garrisoned by a force of Arab 
mercenaries under the command of 
an eunuch called Batis. The Greek 
engineers confessed themselves un- 
able to invent engines sufficiently 
powerful to batter its massive walls. 
Mounds of earth were raised on the 
S. side of the town, and batterin 
rams placed on these were directed 
against the upper part of the ram- 
parts. But the garrison made a vi- 
zorous sortie, burned the engines, 
-outed the besiegers, and were only 
shecked by Alexander in person at 
the head of his choicest troops, In 
Jnis action the king received a severe 
vound in the shoulder, which well- 
righ terminated his career. During 
is slow recovery the engines that 
sad been used at the siege of Tyre 

[Syria and Palestine. ] . 


Route 14.—Gazua. 


SN Ps gg 


265 


were sent for, A mound of greater 
breadth and height was then heaped 
up; and after nearly 4 months’ toil a 
practicable breach was made. The be- 
siegers rushed in; thrice were they 
driven back with fearful slaughter ; 
but at last numbers prevailed and the 
city was won. The brave defenders, 
however, knew not how to surrender 
—they fought till not a man re- 
mained. 

The position of Gaza on the mili- 
tary road between Syria and Egypt 
often exposed it to the calamities of 
war. To the Egyptians it was the 
key of Palestine—to the Syrians it 
was the key of Egypt. It was twice 
laid in rus during the Ist centy. 
before our era; but it soon rose from 
its ashes. A Christian church was 
early established in it; yet a majority 
of its inhabitants long retained their 


idolatry, for in the 5th centy: there. 


were still 8 temples dedicated to the 
worship of heathen deities. By the 
influence of Eudoxia, wife of the em- 
peror Arcadius, a Christian bishop 
received a commission to destroy 
them all, and was, besides, furnished 
with means to erect a magnificent 
church, which was dedicated in the 
year a.D. 406. This is probably the 
same building now used as the great 


mosk. 

In the year 634 Gaza was captured 
by the Muslems; and it has become 
celebrated in Arab history as the 
birthplace of esh-Sh4fa’y, the founder 
of one of the most distinguished Mo- 
hammedan sects. The crusaders 
found the city entirely ruined and 
deserted ; and in 1152 they erected a 
fortress on the hill, the defence of 
which was intrusted to the Knights 
Templars. Towards the close of the 
12th centy. it again fell into the 
hands of the Arabs, and its history 
since that time presents nothing of 
interest. 

The modern town has a brisk trade, 
being in the caravan route to Egypt, 
and the rendez-vous of the whole 
Arab tribes of the desert of et-Tth. 
The bazaars are well supplied with 
the necessaries and even the luxuries 
of Arab life. 

N 


266 


Ancient Gaza had a port called 
Majuma, some few traces of which 
may still be seen along the shore. Its 


Route 15.—Gaza to Cairo. 


| 
Sect. III. 


This route was formerly much fre- 
quented by travellers as the shortest 
and easiest way from Syria to Cairo, 


inhabitants were in the early ages of | and vice versé. Now, however, it is 


Obristianity bigoted idolaters; but 
they were all converted to the true 
faith in the reign of the first Constan- 
tine, who for this reason bestowed 
upon the place special privileges, 
constituted it a separate independent 
city, and called it after his own name, 
Constantia. His chief object in free- 
ing it from the jurisdiction of Gaza 
was to release it from the control of 
heathen rulers. In the time of Julian 
the Apostate the people of Gaza re- 
asserted their authority, and appealed 
to the Emperor, who, of course, de- 
cided in their favour. The old harbour 
has now completely disappeared, being 
covered up by the drifting sands. The 
coast is open, the water shallow, and 
the anchorage bad; and no small boat 
can approach the shore except in the 
calmest weather. 

A recent attempt was made to 
- establish consular agencies for the 
European powers at Gaza; but the 
fanatical inhabitants tore down the 
flags, and though a British war- 
steamer appea on the coast no 
impression was made, 


ROUTE 15. 


GAZA TO EL-ARISH AND CAIRO, 


. ML 

Gaza to Khan Yanus .. 6 0 
Reifah, Raphia .. .. 1 0 
El-’Arish, Rhinocolura .. 9 0 
Musr, Carro (about) 65 0 
Total 81 0 


almost wholly abandoned. When one 
can go from Yafa to Alexandria by 
steamer in from 30 to 40 hours, and 
from thence to Cairo in 6, it would be 
folly to undertake a fatiguing and 
uninteresting journey of some 250 m. 
across the desert on camel or donkey 
back, Some may still feel inclined to 
follow the Syrian coast as far as the 
river of Egypt ; and even to go on to 
the ancient Pelusium, the proposed 
mouth of the pr canal. For 
such I insert an itinerary as far as 
El-’Arish, referring them to the Hand- 
book for Egypt as their guide thence 
to Cairo, or wherever else they may 
wish to go. 


On leaving Gaza the road runs 
S.W., parallel to the coast, and in about 
1} hr. crosses Wady Sheri’ah. Another 
1$ hr. brings us to Deir el-Belah, “ the 
convent of the dates,” a small village 
situated near the shore, and sur 
rounded by well-watered gardens. 
This is probably the site of the fortress 
Dérén, which was built by the eru- 
saders on the ruins of a Greek con- 
vent of the same name. The name 
probably comes from the Hebrew 
Darém, “the south,” which Eusebius 
and Jerome apply as a proper name 
to the 8.W. section of Palestine. 3 
hrs. farther is Khan Yfnus, beauti- 
fully placed amid groves of trees 
and verdant gardens. It has a large 
khan solidly built, but sadly out of 
repair. is supposed to occu 
the site of the old city of Jenyout 
mentioned by Herodotus as on the 
coast not far from the borders of 
Egypt (iii. 5). An br. beyond Khan 
Yanus are the ruins of Raphia, now 
Reifah, amid sandhills close to the 
sea. Raphia figured in the wars be 
tween the Ptolemies and the Selev- 
cidse, and is referred to by Josephus 
as the first station in Syria at which 
Titus rested when on his way to besiege 
Jerusalem. The Itinerary of Antonine 
places it 22 Rom. m. 8, of . | 


S. PaLEstTriNe, Route 16.—Gaza to Ascalon, &c. 267 


From these ruins the caravan road 
continues along a dreary undulating 
plain, separated from the sea by bare 
sandhills, and extending eastward far 
away into the great desert of et-Tih. 
After 9 brs. weary march we cross 
Wady el-’Arish, the ancient Torrens 
Atgypti, and tread the soil of Egypt. 
Before us is the village and fort of 
el-’Arish, known of old as Rhinocolura. 


ROUTE 16. 


GAZA TO ASCALON, ASHDOD, EKRON, 
LYDDA, AND JERUSALEM, 


H, 
Gaza to ASCALON .. .. . 3 40 
Mejdel, Migdalgad .. 0 45 
Esditd, Ashdod rs rs! 
Yebna, Jabneh.. .. «© « 2 40 
*Akir, Ekron .. «.. « «+ 1 20 
Ramleh .. .e «.- «- 1 25 
Ludd, Lydda .. 0 “0 


Beit 'Ur el-Foka, Upper Bethhoron 
Jerusalem... .. .. +. « 4 


ees ee 


Total .. »- 21 20 


This is a route of great interest. It 
carries us the whole length of Phi- 
listia, and through its three remainin 
royal cities—Ascalon, Ashdod, a 
Eizron—besides a number of its prin- 
cipal villages. The road is good, the 
plain level, and we can thus get over 
tthe ground, now and again, at a round 
canter. There is life and pleasure in 
thus riding, independent of the excite- 
ment of strange scenes and time-worn 
ruins. Lydda can be reached in 2 
Clays; and then a “long pull” on the 
third will bring us to Jerusalem. Mej- 


del forms the best camping-ground the 
first night; the baggage animals can 
be sent direct to it, while we gallop 
round to the ruins of Ascalon. The 
plain of Philistia is infested by Arab 
tribes; but they are not often trouble- 
some to the traveller. The best guide 
is one of the mounted “Irre " 
whom the Governor of Gaza will 
appoint, on application being made by 
the dragoman; he is known to the 
Bedawin and villagers, and, in addi- 
tion to pointing out the road, often 
saves one from annoyance and inso- 
lence. <A bakhshish of a dollar a day 
is usually given.... Be it noted, 
that the above itinerary is for un- 
encumbered cavaliers, and not for 
baggage-mules. 

going from Gaza to Ascalon we 
ride back along the avenue of olive- 
trees to the top of the low sandy ridge 
that separates the gardens of the town 
from the great plain; and then turn 
to the 1. out of the road by which we 
came from Beit Jibrin (Rte. 14). The 
sandy downs are now on our L, still 
scantily covered with olive-trees and 
straggling tufts of long thin grass. 


mw. | On the rt. is a shallow wady, or ra- 


ther depression, filled with corn-fields, 
In an hr. from Gaza, Beit Hanan 
is $ m. on our rt. The path now 
sweeps along the side of a dry torrent- 
bed, deeply furrowed in the sandy 
soil, to where it falls into Wady Sim- 
sim. The wady is here deep and 
narrow, with a dry gravelly bottom ; 
and is spanned by a good modern 
bridge. Soon after crossing it we 
reach Deir Ethneid (40 min. from Beit 
Hanfin), situated in the midst of a low 
rich section of the plain, and em- 
bowered in fig-orchards and huge 
hedges of cactus. From hence we 
ascend, after crossing another torrent- 
bed, to a less fruitful district, with 
low naked ridges to the rt. and 1. 
Leaving the little dreary-looking vil- 
lage of Beit Jerj’a 4 m. to the rt., 
we ride on to Burbérah. This is a 
large prosperous village, with a fine 
mosk, trim gardens, and well-stocked 
orchards. But it is lamentable to, see 
how fast the drifting sand is approach- 


ing it, and how gardens, orchards, 
N 2 


268 ’ Route 16.—Ascalon. Sect. ITI. 


olive-groves—everything, in short— 
are bein, swallowed up by this irre- 
sistible destroyer. Here and there 
are trees in full foliage—some stand- 
ing in holes like huge cups, wrought 
in the sand by the wind that sweeps 
beneath their branches—others with 
the trunk and lower branches com- 
pletely buried, and the whole top 
d with sand, like trees at home 
after a snowstorm—others again with 
little pyramids over them, and nothing 
to show that these are the tombs of 
living trees except one or two delicate 
een twigs that project from the mass. 
t was almost affecting, as I passed 
through this place last year, to see an 
old man shovelling back the fresh- 
blown sand from a cucumber-bed, and 
erecting a temporary barrier of bushes, 
go as to let him get this last crop from 
the doomed soil. On the W. of the 
village nothing is visible but the 
naked, white sand-heaps, reminding 
one of snow-wreaths on an Alpine 
plateau. On the E. all is verdure, green 
cactus - hedges, green fig - orchards, 
green olive-groves, and green fields 
away beyond them. Among the lanes 
of the village, and especially beside 
the mosk, are some little shafts of 
y and white marble, probably rifled 
From the palaces of Ascalon. Indeed 
in every village of the plain one meets 
with these marble columns—now form- 
ing the kerb-stones of wells, now the 
thresholds of diminutive mosks, and 
often lying almost without use or 
object. They are the gravestones of 
Philistia’s grandeur. 


At Burbfrah we leave the main 
road, which runs on along the fertile 
lain in o north-western direction, 
Feoping considerably E. of Mejdel, 
and touching our route again at Esdad. 
Near this road, about 1 m. from Bur- 
barah, is a small village called Jiyeh ; 
and 4 hr. beyond it, more to the 
eastward, is Beitima. Our path turns 
to the N.W. along the border of the 
sandhills, with an olive-grove on the 
rt., which once stretched far to the 1. 
also, as we can see by the half-buried 
trees near us, and the tombs of others 


Nalich, a poor hamlet built on a rising 
ground on the E. side of a low narrow 
plain which appears to be sometimes 
flooded in winter. A ride of 10 min, | 
across the plain, and 20 min. more 
over the broad ridge of sand, brings 
us to the gate of Ascalon. 


ASCALON, in Arabic ‘Askuldén.—The 
ruins of this ancient city occupy a_ 
lendid site in the form of a Roman | 
eatre, facing the Mediterranean. 
Along the shore runs a line of bold 
cliffs nearly 1 m. in length, and vary- 
ing from 50 to 80 ft. in height. The 
ends are connected by a ridge or bank | 
of rock which sweeps round inland in 
the form of a semicircle. Within the 
ace thus enclosed stood Ascalon, and 
along the top of the ridge ran its walls. 
The ground sinks gradually for some 
200 or 300 yds. Ta madcallyy inj and 
then rises in as y into a 
low broad mound, culminating at the 
sea. The walls are strangely ttered, 
and one wonders what mighty agency 
has been employed in their destruction. 
Huge masses of solid masonry, 10, 15, 
20 in diameter, are thrown from 
their places and lie in confused heaps 
on the sides and at the base of the 
rocky bank. The cement that binds 
the stones together seems as firm a: 
the stones themselves; and thus the 
old battlements, instead of having 
crumbled to pieces as most buildings 
do, rest in immense disjointed frag- 
ments, which, had we power enough to 
move them, we might almost arrange 
in their places again. On the east- 
em side 7 the congo ae at its 
apex, was the principal, perhaps the 
only, gate; and here is still the most 
convenient entrance. The path winds 
up through heaps of stones and rub- 
bish, among which are great numbers 
of marble and granite columns; on 
the 1. are the shattered walls of a large 
tower, still of considerable height, and 
affording from the top the best general 
view of the whole ruins. Clamberine 
up the broken battlements, we have 
Ascalon spread out before us—no ! not 
Ascalon, only the place where it once: 


beyond them. In 25 min. we come to | stood. About two-thirds of the site, 


S. PALgEsrine. 


towards the N., is taken up with little 
patches of gardens, divided by rough 
crooked stone fences, and filled with 
Vines, pomegranates, and apricots, 
in addition to Taaartart beds of onions 
and melons. Scarcely a fragment of 
a ruin can be seen from this spot 
except the broken ridge of wall. As 
I sat here one morning last spring I 
counted 5 yokes of oxen ploughing, 
2 drawing water for irrigation, and 
28 men and women engaged in agri- 
cultural work, within the site! Such 
is now one section of Ascalon. The 
remaining portion is even more ter- 
ribly fallen. The white sand has 
drifted over its southern wall, almost 
covering its highest fragments, and 
now lies in deep wreaths upon the 
ground within. The scene here pre- 
sents such an aspect of utter desolation 
that it is painful to look upon it—old 
foundations of houses, palaces perhaps ; 
and the little vines that men, still 
living, had planted over them, being 
alike swallowed up by sand. And the 
sand is fast advancing; so that pro- 
bably ere half a century has passed 
the very site of Ascalon will have dis- 
appeared. How fearfully true are the 
words of Zephaniah, spoken 25 cen- 
turies ago, “ASHKELON SHALL BE A 
DESOLATION” (ii, 4); and the words 
of Zechariah too, “ Ashkelon shall not 
be inhabited !’’ (ix. 5.) 

A walk through the gardens and 
orchards that cover the site still serves 
to show us something of the former 
magnificence of the city. Proceeding 
from the gate towards the top of the 
central mound, now crowned with a 
ruinous wely, we observe traces of a 
street once lined with columns. At 
about 200 yds. we have on the l. a 
low area, partially excavated, around 
which are from 20 to 30 large granite 
shafts, and several smaller ones of 
marble; some of them nearly covered 
by the soil and stones. Not a solitary 
column stands upright, and not a 
building can be traced even in outline, 
though a few stones of a wall are here 
und there seen in their places. Deep 
wells are frequently met with, with 
serb-stones of marble or granite ; 
2olumns, mostly of granite, exist every- 


Route 16.—- Ascalon— History. 


269 


where in vast numbers—scores of 
them may be seen projecting from the 
ruinous wall along the cliff over the 
sea, and some lie half buried in the 
sands below. Hewn stones are not so 
plentiful as one would expect. But 
this is explained by the fact that 
Ascalon formed the chief quarry from 
which the materials were taken to 
build the ramparts and adorn the 
mosks of ’Akka. The houses and 
walls of Yafa have also made large 
draughts on this place. And poor 
Lady Hester Stanhope, strangely 
enough, contributed to the work of 
ruin, Having heard or dreamt of some 
vast treasure buried beneath the old 
city, she gota firman from the Sultan, 
assembled a large band of workmen, 
and made extensive excavations; but 
the only treasure discovered was a 
portion of a theatre. Thus a variety 
of agencies have combined to render 

lon “a desolation.” There is a 
little village beside it; but not a single 
habitation within its walls. 

The history of Asculon is scarcely 
less interesting than that of its sister 
Gaza. It was one of the royal cities 
of the Philistines when the Israelites 
entered Palestine. Being allotted to 
Judah, it was captured by that tribe, 
but only held a few years (Josh. xiii. 
3; Jud. i. 18, iii. $); and it seems to 
have remained during the whole pe- 
riod of the Jewish monarchy in the 
hands of its original possessors. (1 Sam. 
vi. 17; 2 Sam. i. 20.) Many prophe- 
cies were uttered against it, ull pro- 
nouncing the same doom—uwtter de- 
struction, (Jer. xlvii. 5, 7; Amos, i. 8; 
Zeph. ii. 4; Zech. ix. 5.) After the 
conquests of Alexander the Great it 
shared the fate of Phoenicia and Ju- 
da, and being a strong maritime 
city, near the borders of rival king- 
doms, it was the scene of many a 
bloody battle—sometimes falling into 
the hands of the Ptolemies, and some- 
times passing over to the Seleucids. 
From an early period Ascalon was 
the seat of the worship of Derceto or 
Syrian Venus; a goddess supposed 
to personify the passive principle of 
nature. She was represented under 
the form of a fish with a woman's 


270 


head; and was, doubtless, a female 
counterpart of the Scriptural Dagon. 
(Jud. xvi. 23; 1 Sam. v. 2.) Diodorus 
Siculus gives a romantic account of 
the origin and peculiar form of this god- 
dess. A beautiful young lady of Asca- 
lon had been indiscreet in her amours, 
and through shame and vexation threw 
herself into a lake near the city. The 
kind goddess of love, pitying her sor- 
rows, converted her into a fish, leaving 
the head alone in its original form. 
She was then deified, or sainted, and 
made the special protectress of Asca- 
lon, Through respect to their mistress 
the inhabitants ever after abstained 
from the use of fish as an article of 
food, and even rendered them divine 
honours. The temple of this dess 
Was On one occasion plundered by the 
Scythians during an invasion of Pales- 
tine; and in consequence of the sacri- 
lege the whole female portion of their 
posterity were punished, as Herodotus 
tells us, with a loathsome disease. 
Ascalon it seems was famous for its 
onions, of which Pliny and other 
ancient authors speak in high terms; 
and our English word scallion, or shal- 
lot, is only a corruption of the Latin 
Ascalonia. It is singular too that 
onions are still largely grown even on 
the very site of Ascalon, and are 
widely celebrated for their superior 
flavour. 
Herod the Great adorned the city 
with baths, porticoes, and fountains; 
and after his death his sister Salome 
resided there in a palace her brother 
had built. Ascalon suffered greatly 
during the wars between the Jews and 
Romans; for its inhabitants were 
noted for their hatred of the Jewish 
nation—a feeling they probably in- 
herited from their Philistine fore- 
fathers. On one occasion 2500 Jews 
were massacred in the city in ‘cold 
blood. From the 4th to the 7th centy. 
Ascalon was the seat of a bishopric ; 
and during the wars of the Crusades 
it was among the most important cities 
in the country, and was often lost and 
won by Christian and Muslem. When 
Jerusalem was taken by Godfrey in 
1099, the Fatimite Khalif of Egypt 
assembled his forces and marched 


Route 16.-——Ascalon— History. 


Sect. ITI. 


into Syria to annihilate the infidels 
who had dared to pollute the sacred 
soil of the faithful. He encamped in 
the plain before the walls of this city; 
and was soon joined by multitudes 
fom Damase cous and other parts of | 

yria, who forgot petty rivalries in 
their hatred of the common foe. The 
little Christian army heard the news 
in Jerusalem; and on bended knees 
before the Holy Sepulchre they uttered 
the noble prayer—*“ Spare thy people, 
O Lord, and give not thine heritage 
to reproach, that the heathen should 
rule over them: Wherefore should 
they say among the people, Where is 
their God?” Then seizing their 
arms, they marched down the moun- 
tain glens, and defiled into the plain. 
1000 horse and 9000 foot constituted 
the whole force of Godfrey. Chance 
threw in their way the immense flocks 
and herds of their enemies, who, it 
seems, had come up in Bedawy style ; 
capturing these, they continued their 
march. When the Muslem army saw 
them in the distance, followed by 
droves of oxen and camels, they 
thought the whole were soldiers, and 
that Allah had for some reason or 
other brought all the infidels on 
earth against them. Panic-struck by 
such an awful Visitation, they fied 
without striking a blow, leaving camp, 
baggage, and arms as spoils to the 
Ohristians ! 

For 50 years after the rest of Pales 
tine had yielded to the arms of the 
Crusaders the strong walls of Ascalon 
bade defiance to every assault. At 
last, under Baldwin III, in the year 
1152, the Christians encamped before 
it, determined on victory at whatever 
price. William of Tyre gives a graphic 
description of the city, and a minute 
account of the siege. The king, the 
patriarch, the bishops of ‘Tyre, 
Cesarea, and Nazareth, ed. their 
followers along the walls, while a fieet 
attacked it from thesea. 2 months had 
already been spent in hard but fruitless 
labour, when the approach of Easter 
brought numerous pilgrims to Palestine 
from every country of urope. The con- 
quest of this city, however, was deemed 
of still greater importance than the 


S. PAaesTIne. 


Route 16.—Ascalon— History. 


271 


observance of the feast. A royal! places in the land. Even this, how- 


decree prohibited the departure o 


any Christian from the country until 
Ascalon had fallen. All who could 
bear arms were gathered to the spot. 
Every seaworthy: ship was assigned 
its station opposite the port. Towers 

a from which English 


were erecte 


archers galled the garrison; and en- 


gines constructed which threw ponder- 
ous stones into the heart of the city. 
The most heroic efforts were made to 
carry the place by storm. But all in 
vain. For 2 months the besieged 
shouted back defiance from the walls. 
Accident at last opened a way to vic- 
tory. The Muslems, having resolved 
to destroy a tower of the enemy from 
which the deadliest projectiles were 


thrown into the city, filled the whole 
interval between it and the wall with 
wood, mixed with pitch, oil, and other 
combustible matter; and then fired it. 
When the flames were at their height 
the wind rose and drove them during 
the whole night against thewall. Just 
before dawn a section of tHe ramparts 
thus heated fell with a tremendous 
crash. A practicable breach was thus 
made, and the Templars claimed the 
honour of first mounting it. Clad in 
their armour, and covered with their 
shields, they rushed over the smoking 
ruins; but they were met by courage 
no less fierce than their own, and not 
a man of that gallant band escaped. 
The city was still in a condition to 
make its own terms; and its defenders 
left it with all the honours of war. 
The achievements of Richard Coeur 
de Lton form another interesting 
episode in the history of Ascalon. 
Saladin’s accession to the throne of 
Damascus revived the waning glory of 
the Crescent; and Ascalon like other 
cities of Syria soon yielded to his arms. 
In the year 1191 Richard landed in 
Palestine. After the capture of Acre 
he led his followers to the recovery of 
the sea-coast. A march of 100 m. 
from Acre to Ascalon was a great and 
perpetual battle of 11 days. It was 
only by demolishing the fortifications 
of this city that Saladin prevented the 
English monarch from the immediate 
occupation of one of the strongest 


f;ever, did not fully accomplish his 


purpose; for the crusaders at once 
resolved to rebuild the walls; and it 
adds no little interest to the spot that 
some of those crumbling ramparts we 
here see around us were erected by 
the hands of our ancestors and country- 
men. ‘All engaged in the work,” says 
Geoffry de Vinsauf; “princes, nobles, 
knighta, esquires, and retainers, might 
be seen tossing the stones from hand 
to hand. There was no distinction 
made between priests and laymen ; no- 
bles and plebeians, princes and servante, 
all worked alike.’”’ The progress made 
was wonderful. 53 of the highest and 
strongest towers had been levelled 
with the und; 5 of which had 
originally been named, as tradition 
affirms, from their founders. The 
first and greatest was called Ham, 
from the son of Noah, who it seems 
was the builder of Ascalon. The next 
was the Maidens’ Tower, because it 
was the work of certain young ladies 
of the city, who desired thus to gain 
the favour of the 30 sons of their 
prince. The soldiers built the Tower 
of Shields; the criminals the Bloody 
Tower; the sailors the Admiral’s 
Tower ; and the sons of Ishmael the 
Bedawin's Tower. The activity of 
Richard and his followers soon re- 
stored these towers to their original 


strength ; and thus did English work- 


men raise Ascalon again from its 
ruins. But the days of its prosperity 
were drawing to a close. Its fortifi- 
cations were completely destroyed by 
Sultan Bibars in the year 1270. It 
still continued ° harbour, a feeble 
garrison till the beginning of the 17th 
centy., when it was abandoned, and 
has ever since remained without an 
inhabitant, (Zech. ix. 5.) 

For the History of Ascalon consult 
Relandi Palaestina ; Ritter’s rd- 
kinde; Will. Tyr. Hist.; and Geoff. 
deVins. Itin. 


Withont the walls of Ascalon on the 
N.E. are beautiful gardens and or- 
chards, filled with figs, apricota, and 
lemons; with beds of cucumbers, 
melons, and especially onions. The 


272 


thorn fences that enclose them are 
wreathed in spring with the delicate 
flowers of the convolvulus—red, pink, 
and white. Here and there, too, 
granite and marble columns, and frag- 
ments of ornamented friezes, are 
scattered about, giving additional in- 
terest to the beautiful scene. In 
the midst of these gardens, 100 yds. 
or so from the walls, stands the 
little village of el-Jftrah—the modern 
representative of the royal Ascalon. 
Soon after passing it we enter the 
white, bare, sandy downs; and in } 
hr. reach the remains of Ibrahim 
Pasha's barracks, Large vaults, a few 
broken walls and foundations, now 
almost covered by the sand-drifts, are 
here, deserted and neglected, on the 
top of the low ridge. Descending 
from hence into a fertile vale, we enter 
rich park scenery, with clumps of 
olives, and straggling walnut and fig 
trees, tastefully scattered over undu- 
lations of corn. In 25 min. we arrive 
at Mejdel, one of the largest and 
most prosperous villages in the plain 
of Philistia. The scenery around 
it reminds one of the richest parts of 
sae ace ee 

es, right blue ; 
speak of. the East. The houses, 
chiefly of stone, are large and sub- 
stantial; and the streets are wider 
than usual, and not quite so filthy. 
There is a well-stocked bazaar abound - 
ing with fruit and vegetables; and 
there is an air of industry and activity 
about the whole place that affords a 
pleasing contrast to the stagnated 
indolence of most of the villages of 
Palestine. The few columns and large 
hewn stones seen about the mosk 
and some of the houses may have been 
brought from Ascalon, though Mejdel 
is itself an ancient site. Its name and 
position serve to identify it with the 
Migdalgad of Joshua xv. 87, and the 
Magdala mentioned by Herodotus, 
where Pharaoh-Necho conquered the 
Syrians, (ii. 159.) 


From Mejdel to the next village, 
Hamémeh, a distance of 27 min., the 
road runs through olive-groves, the 
sight and shade of which are refresh- 


Route 16.— Mejdel.— Ashdod. 


Sect. II]. 


ing to the weary sun-burnt traveller. 
The fields are here cultivated with 
skill and taste ; and some of the melon 
and cucumber beds would not disgrace 
European gardeners. Looking away a 
few hundred yds. to the 1., we see that 
this whole scene of richness and beauty 
is threatened with speedy destruction. 
The sands are advancing rapidly over 
the country. Large vineyards are 
there, in which nothing is seen but 
a few long straggling branches, still 
green, waving mournfully over a white 
desert—fig-trees deeply imbedded— 
long hedges of cactus almost covered 
up, and little lanes between, no longer 
needed. After passing the groves 
of Ham&meh we enter an open plain, 
neither so fertile nor so weil cultivated 
as that through which we have passed. 
The white downs are still close on our 
L, and here and there the path is 
thickly covered with loose sand. We 
here fall into the direct Gaza road, 
and after ascending a low ridge, from 
which we have an extensive view over 
the plain the rt., Hedud appears 
before us, distant 1 hr. 23 min. from 
Hamameh. 


Ashdod, now called Esdfd, is a 
moderate-sized village of mud houses, 
situated on the eastern declivity of a 
little flattish hill. On approaching it 
from the 8. we have in the foreground 
a miniature lake, 400 or 500 yds. in 
circumference—beyond it @ ruin- 
ous khan and a modern wely—beyond 
these, the hill, its southern face divided 
into a multitude of diminutive gardens 
with stone fences, that look like sheep- 
pens in the distance. Leaving the 
pond and khan on the 1., we advance to 
the village itself over a naked slope jof — 
threshing-floors and brick-fields. Th» 


The plain, too, unfolds itself befo 
us till it meets in the distance 
dark mountains of Judma — he 
and there villages and ruins am 
green corn-fields, or on gray ba 
mounds, — 


S. PA.gsTINE. 


The village itself is entirely modern, 
and does not contain a vestige of an- 
tiquity ; but in the old khan to the 
S.W. there is a granite column; and 
beside the little wely, near the khan, 
is a beautiful sculptured sarcophagus, 
with some fragments of small marble 
shafts. The whole southern side of 
the hill appears also as if it had been 
once covered with buildings, the stones 
of which are now thrown together in 
the rude fences. The khan is com- 
paratively modern—certainly not older 
than that at Ramleh. Irby and Man- 
gles tell a curious story of the villagers 
of Ashdod, which is illustrative alike 
of the feelings and the superstitions 
of the Muslem inhabitants of Syria. 
Some women brought to them a sick 
young man, under the impression, 


which is almost universal, that all 


Franks are either hakims or magi- 
cians. They at first assured the women 
they could do nothing for the youth ; 
but the poor creatures still believed 
that it was the will and not the power 
was wanting to effect a cure. See- 
ing this, they gave them some balsam 
of Mecca, which the friars say is an 
antidote for all distempers. They 
expressed their gratitude and went 
away; but they “soon returned to 
beg some of our hair, saying that the 
smoke of Christian hair burnt while 
the medicine was warming would 
ensure a cure of the disorder.” I have 
myself more than once heard the same 
statement; but accompanied with the 
assurance that hair had no virtue 
except the head was along withit. . 
Ashdod like Gaza and Ascalon was 
a royal city of the Philistines, and fell 
to the lot of the tribe of Judah (Josh. 
xiii. 3; xv. 47); but there is no 
evidence that it ever really came into 
their possession. The city is chiefly 
familiar to us as the place to which 
the Ark of the Lord was brought after 
its capture by the Philistines at the 
fatal battle of Aphek (1 Sam. v. 1). 
The temple of Dagon probably stood 
on the summit of the little bill, “The 
Philistines took the Ark of God, and 
brought it into the house of Dagon, 
and set it by Dagon; and when they 


' of Ashdod arose early on the morrow, 


Route 16.—Ashdod. 


273 


‘behold, Dagon was fallen upon his 


face to the earth before the Ark of 
the Lord. And they took Dagon and 
set him in his place again.” The 
triumphant song of the Philistines.was 
soon turned into mourning. Dagon 
was thrown down and shattered before 
the Ark the second night also; and 
“the hand of the Lord was heavy upon 
them of Ashdod, and he destroyed 
them, and smote them with emerods,” 
The broken idol might be easily 
repaired, but the pestilence none could. 
stay. The Ark was, consequently, 
sent away across the plain to Gath. 
(1 Sam, iv. v.) 3 centuries after- 
wards Ashdod was dismantled by King 
Uzziah, who built some towns in the 
country round it (2 Chron. xxvi. 6); 
and at a, still later period the prophets 
pronounced its sentence. (Amos i. 8; 
Zeph, ii. 4; Zech. ix.6.) It is men- 
tioned to the reproach of the Jews 
after their return from captivity, that 
they married wives of Ashdod; and 
that their children spoke a mongrel 
dialect. (Neh. xiii, 23, 24.) But the 
most remarkable historical fact con- 
nected with the city is the long siege 
it stood against Psammiticus, king of 
Egypt, who during a period of twenty- 
nine years invested it (about B.c. 650). 
This is the longest siege on record, far 
surpassing that of Troy. (Herod. ii. 
157.) Ashdod was destroyed during 
the Jewish wars in the time of the 
Maccabees, but was again built by 
order of Gabinius, the Roman governor 
of Syria. It was included in the 
kingdom of Herod the Great, and was 
bequeathed by him to his sister 
Salome, who, as we have seen, resided 
in a palace at Ascalon. Among the 
Greeks and Romans the city was 
called Azotus ; and it was here Philip 
the Evangelist “was found” after the 
baptism of the Ethiopian eunuch. 
(Acts viii. 40.) In the early centuries 
of our era Azotus became the seat of 
a bishop; and the see, after remaining 
dormant under the rule of the Sara- 
cens, was revived for a time by the 
Latin kings of Jerusalem. 


Immediately on leaving Esdfd to 
proceed northward we enter one of 
N 3 


274 


the richest sections of the whole plain 
—a depreasion, 2 to 3 m. wide, and 
extending far to the eastward, with a 
torrent-bed winding through its centre, 
deeply farrowed in the loamy soil. 
The fields of grain that clothed this 
valley were among the finest I had 
seen in Syria, rivalling even those of 

It is everywhere cultivated ; 
and there are 6 or 7 large villages in 
or beside it. About 2 m. E. of Esdad 
is one called Bataineh, and another 
bearing the same name stands 1} 
m. or so farther E. Our path leads 
E. by N. through fields of corn 
to el-Burka (42 min.), a hamlet of 
mud houses, placed on the northern 
bank of the wady, and encompassed 
by cactus hedges of enormous size. 
Turning more to the N. we now ascend 
along, bare, gentle slope—the white 
downs away on the l., and the green 
plain away on the rt.; but around us 
a barren, stony soil, that seems to have 
felt Philistia’s curse—‘“ O Canaan, the 
land of the Philistines, I will even 
destroy thee!’ (Zeph. ii. 5.) From 
the top of the rising ground, about + 
hr. after leaving el-Burka, we see a 
number of villages dotting the great 
plain eastward. One of these, about 2 
mn. distant, surrounded by olive-groves, 
is called Yazfr, and is doubtless the 
Hazor mentioned by Eusebius as a 
town of Judah, eastward of Ascalon. 
In the open plain, about 1} m. 8.E. of 
it, is Musmiyeh. Passing on for a weary 
hr. over bleak uplands, with a light 
scanty soil, and without a tree or rock 
to break the monotony, we arrive in 
Bushit (or Abu Shit?), a wretched 
collection of mud hovels, such as one 
would think the old prophet must 
have had before his mind's eye when 
he said, “The sea-coast shall be 
dwellings and cottages for shepherds, 
and folds for flocks.” (Zeph. ii. 6. 
And when one sees the half-nake 
half-starved looking men, and squalid 
women and children, that lounge lazily 
in the dirt of these miserable villages, 
he cannot help recalling the words of 
Scripture—‘ A bastard shall dwell in 
Ashdod, and I will cut off the pride 
of the Philistines.” (Zech. ix. 6.) 


hh 


Route 16.—Jabneh. 


Sect. II. 


On the N. of Busghit is Wady Surar ; 
here only a broad depression in the 
undulating plain, but having a rich 
deep soil, The torrent-bed that winds 
through it from the E. turns north- 
ward opposite Bushit and makes a 
long sweep to the sea. From Bushit 
the rie road to Ekron (distant 1 hr. 

0 min.) turns to the rt., crossing the 
wady, and ing through a litile 
Village called Mughar, built on the 
southern declivity of a low ridge, in 
which are some “ caves” that give the 
name to the village. Leaving this 
village about 14 m. to the rt., we pro- 
ceed along the plain (50 min.) north- 
ward to Yebna. 


JABNEH, or Jamnia, now Yebna, is 
situated on a gentle eminence on the 
W. bank of Wady Surir, about 2 m. 
from the sea. Though the houses are 
modem, vei are still ome traces 
of antiquity remaining, the princi 
being the ruins of a ch., used in taker 
times as a mosk. This is the site 
of the ancient city Jabneh, mentioned 
in the book of Chronicles (2 Chron. 
xxvi. 6) as taken by Uzziah along 
with Ashdod, and dismantled. The 
Jabneel of the northern border of 
Judah is also probably the same 
place. (Josh. xv. 11.) The name is 
not again found in Scripture, but it is 
frequently referred to by Josephus 
and other historians in the early cen- 
turies of our era. It became the seat 
of a Christian bishop, and also of a 
famous Jewish synagogue and school. 
The Crusaders believed it to be the 
site of Gath, and built on it a fortress 
called Ibelin. 


From Yebna there is a direct road 
to Yafa about 32 hrs. distant. It 
leads northward diagonally across 
Wady Surfr. This valley is the 
drain of the western section of the 
Judean hills, almost from Hebron to 
Bethel. Wadys Musurr and Beit 
Hanina, with all their tributaries, fall 
into it; and yet it is only a winter 
stream, with no running water later 
than the beginning of May. From 
the place where it enters the plain at 


S. Pa.estine, 


Bethshemesh, till it reaches Yebna, it 
is called Surér, and from Yebna to 
the sea Rfibin. Near where the 
modern road crosses it to Yafa are the 
ruins of a Roman bridge; one great 
arch and the fragment of another still 
stand. This serves to mark the line 
of the old road laid down in the 
Peutinger Tables, from Joppa to 
Jamnia, Azotus, and Ascalon. An- 
other road ran from Diospolis (Lydda) 
to Jamnia, but it must have crossed 
the wady considerably eastward of 
this bridge. Not far from the bridge, 
on an eminence to the rt., isa wely 
‘surrounded by a wall and a few trees; 
it is called Neby Rabin, and gives its 
name to this part of the valley. It 
was formerly almost as great a place 
of pilgrimage for the Mohammedans 
as Neby Misa, near Jericho; but 
latterly it has lost its virtue or its 
fame. The YAfa road runs from hence 
along the shore. 

A low naked ridge filled with caves 
separates the little plain of Yebna 
from that of Akir to the E.; and at 
ita southern extremity, where the 
wady breaks through it, stands the 
poor village of Mughar. May not 
this ridge be the “mount -Baalak” 
referred to on the border of Judah, 
between Ekron and Jabneel? (Josh. 
xv. 11.) Our road to ‘Akir crosses it, 
the whole distance being about 1 hr. 
20 min. 


Ekron, now ’Akir, lies on a gentle 
eminence on the northern side of Wady 
Starar, which is separated from the 
great sandy plain of Ramleh by a broad 
swell like a huge wave. The village 
contains about 50 mud houses, without 
a single remnant of antiquity, except 
2 large finely-built wells. Though 
the plain southward is rich, the whole 
country round it has a dreary forsaken 
appearance, which is heightened by 
some half-dozen stunted, weather- 
beaten trees scattered round the 
houses. There cannot be a doubt, 
however, that this is the site of the 
ancient Ekron. “That city,” says 
Dr. Robinson, “was the northernmost 
of the 5 cities of the lords of the 
Philistines; and was situated on the 


Route 16.—Ekron. 


275 


northern border of Judah; while the 
other 4 cities lay within the territories 
of that tribe. (Josh. xiii. and xv.) 
Eusebius and Jerome describe it as.a 
village of Jews, between Azotus and 
Jamnia, toward the E.; that is to say, 
to the eastward of a right line between 
those places; and such is the actual 
position of ’Akir relative to Esddd 
and Yebna at the present day.” 

The history of Ekron is neither so in- 
teresting nor 80 important as that of the 
other royal cities of Philistia. It was 
first allotted to Judah, and was one of 
the landmarks of its northern border 
(Josh. xv. 11); it was conquered by 
that tribe, though subsequently given 
to Dan. (Id. xix. 43; Jud. i. 18.) 
Almost the only remarkable incident 
in the history of Ekron is that con- 
nected with the Ark, which was sent 
here from Gath. .(1 Sam. v. 10-12; 
vi.) When it came near the city— 
when it was crossing the lowlands of 
Wady Surar, where it came into full 
view—the people feared, and raised 
the cry, as they flocked out of their 
houses, “They have brought about 
the Ark of the God of Israel to us, to 
slay us and our people.” They soon re- 
solved to send it back home, “ for there 
was a deadly destruction throughout 
all the city.”. A new cart was made; 
two milch kine yoked to it, their 
calves being shut up; the Ark was 
placed in the cart, and a coffer con- 
taining the sin-offerings of the Phi- 
listines by its side. The kine were 
permitted to choose their own path— 
a test pro by the superstitious 
people to show whether the plague 
had really come from the Lord’s hand 
—and “they took the straight way to 
the way of Bethshemesh.” We can 
follow their route with our eyes from 
beside the village. They went down 
the gentle slope into the green plain 
or wady; and then wound up it to 
where it enters the dark range of hills 
some 10 m. off. Any villager will 
point out the direction and position 
of ’Ain esh-Shems, the ancient Beth- 
shemesh, to which the ark was carried ; 
the site is hid by intervening high 
ground, but the opening of the valley 
away on the §8.E. is easily distin- 


—_ 


276 


guished. The 5th and 6th cha 
of 1 Samuel will be read with advan- 
tage as well as interest on the site 
of Ekron. 


RaMLEH.—Between 'Akir and Ram- 
leh is a tract of upland—a low 
ridge, or rather swell, crossing the 
great plain from E. to W. The soil is 
sandy; the surface broken and per- 
tially covered with dry weeds and 
scorched gray bushea, with only here 
and there a patch of sickly-looking 
corn, The sighing of the sea-breeze 
as it sweeps over it is singularly 
mournful, reminding one of a Scotch 
moor. On approaching Ramleh we 
enter a tract of heavy reddish sand, 
which thickly covers the narrow lanes, 
even among the fields and gardens. 
This town is embowered in olive- 
groves and orchards of fruit-trees, 
amorg which the pol, kharab (the 
Ceratonia siliqua of botanists, and the 
husks of Luke xv. 16), and sycamore 
abound. Gardens and vegetables, and 
fields of grain, fenced by hedges of 
cactus, give a rich and flourishing 
aspect to Ramleh. The houses, too, 
are well built—not so closely packed 
as in most oriental towns, but running 
out here and there into the orchards; 
and the streets are tolerably clean. The 
population is estimated at 3000, two- 
thirds Muslems, and the rest Obris- 
tians, chiefly of the Greek Church. 
The town is comparatively modern, 
possessing few buildings or ruins 
earlier than the time of the crusades. 
There is one fine old Gothic ch., 
more recently used as a mosk, and 
now fast falling to ruin. The Latin 
convent is one of the largest in Syria, 
though only inhabited by a few churl- 
ish Spanish and Italian friars. It 
was built in the beginning of the 18th 
centy. Before that period there was 
here only a hospitium or khan for 
pilgrims, purchesed by Philip the 
Good, Duke of Burgundy, about 4.p. 
1240. The monks say their new ch. 
occupies the site of the house of 
Nicodemus. On the N. side of the 
town are some extensive vaults, said 

have been built by the Empress | 


Route 16.—Ramleh. 


Sect. III. 


Helena—a legend equally worthy of 
credit with that of Nicodemus’s house. 
The descent to them is by a long 
flight of steps, and the interior is 
spacious, containing 24 arcades—it is 
now, and probably always was, a 
cistern. 

But the chief architectural attrac- 
tion of Ramleh is a beautiful tower 
which stands on high greund } m. 
W. of the town. Around it are the 
remains of a large quadrangular en- 
closure, once a spacious khan like 
those found along all the leading 
roads in the country. Some of the 
arches of the cloisters are still stand- 


ing, and under the centre of the area | 


are extensive subterranean vaults 
solidly built. The tower is now 
isolated ; but there can be little doubt 
that it was at one time attached toa 
mosk, Most of the great khans in 
Syria had originally eir mosks and 
minarets, and a few of them may 
still be seen near Damascus, as at 
Kuteifeh, S’as’a, &. The tower is 
Saracenic, square, and beautifully 
built of hewn stones—in general ap- 
pearance not unlike the Red Tower of 
Halle. The angles are supported by 
tall slender buttresses, and the sides 
taper upwards in several stories. A 
narrow winding staircase, lighted by 
pointed arched windows, leads to the 
top, where it opens on an external 
stone gallery, which is carried round 
the tower. The extreme height is 
about 120 ft. This tower has formed 
a theme for keen controversy among 
recent writers on Palestine. During 
the 16th centy. a tradition sprang up 
in some way or other that the ruins 
round it were those of a Christian ch., 
dedicated to the “Forty Martyrs’ of 
Sebaste, in Armenia. Pious pilgrims 


gladly adopted the new shrine; ima-! 


ginative travellers propagated the 
story; subsequent writers copied it; 


and thus it ran on like an infinite | 
Tradition, like fame, vires’ 


series. 
acquirit eundo; and accordingly in 
the beginning of the 18th centy. the 
whole building was ascribed to the 
piety of Helena; and in the present 


centy. some have added that during 
the crusades there was a convent here 


S. PALESTINE. 


and a ch. of the Knights Templars, 
to which this tower was the belfry! 
Dr. Robinson at length arrived, and 
with his historical wand dissolved the 
whole fairy tale, something like a 
magician at a Christmas pantomime. 
Any architect might have seen that 
the style of the building, and of the 
ruins around it, is purely Saracenic ; 
any one who had used his eyes might 
have discovered that the tower could 
never have been used as a belfry; 
and any scholar who had glanced at 
the Arabic inscription over the door 
might have ascertained that it bears 
the date of a.u. 710, corresponding to 
A.D. 1310. It is, moreover, rela in 
the writings of Mejr-ed-Din, the his- 
torian of Jerusalem, that the Khialif 
Nasr Mohammed ibn Kalaéwin, who 
was restored to the throne of Egypt 
in 1310, built here a minaret famed 
for its height and beauty. The mosk 
which formerly stood beside it was 
erected by Suleiman, son of Abd-el- 
Melek, the founder of Ramleh, and 
the 7th Khalif of the Ommiades. It 
was repaired during the reign of Sala- 
din; and is frequently referred to by 
' Arab authors under the name of the 

White Mosk. 

Every traveller should ascend this 
tower, as from its gallery we obtain a 
most interesting view of the plain. At 
our feet are the orchards and olive- 
groves of Ramleh; on the N.E. they 
are touched by those of Lydda, which 
is seen beautifully seated on a gentle 
eminence. Beyond these, N. and §., 
the eye wanders over a boundless 
rolling plain, tinted, according to the 
season, with the rich verdure of spring, 
or the golden hue of early summer, or 
the unvarying grey of autumn. On 
the W. is the sea, and on the E. the 
‘mountains of Israel.” In the plain 
itself there are but few villages, as it 
affords too fair a field for Bedawy 
cavaliers; but the low hills and the 
mountain sides beyond are thickly 
studded with them. 

Within the last few centuries a 
monkish tradition has identified Ram- 
leh with the Ramathaim-Zophim or 
Ramah of Samuel, and with the Ari- 
mathea of the New Testament. For 


Route 16.—Ramleh. 


277 


this, however, there is not a shadow of 
evidence. The two names have no 
analogy—Ramleh signifying “ sandy,” 
and Ramah a “hill.” But when the 
idea was once started tradition began 
its inventions. The house of Nico- 
demus, the very spot where he made 
the Holy Cross now at Lucca, and 
other shrines no less interesting, were 
soon discovered, and are now exhi- 
bited to the “faithful.” In history 
there is no mention of Ramleh earlier 
than the 9th centy.; and Abulfeda 
states that it was founded in the 
earl of the 8th centy. by the 
Khalif Suleiman, after he had de- 
stroyed Ludd. The same fact is re- 
corded by William of Tyre and others, 
The town soon rose to importance, 
partly, perhaps, from its situation at 
the intersection of the great roads 
from Damascus to Egypt, and from 
Yiafa to Jerusalem. In the 12th 
centy. the geographer Edrisi calls 
Ramleh and Jerusalem the two prin- 
cipal cities of Palestine. Before the 
time of the crusades Ramleh was 
surrounded by a wall with 12 gates; 
4 of these opening towards the car- 
dinal points had markets and mosks 
attached to them. On the approach 
of the crusaders in 1099 the city was 
deserted by its inhabitants, and im- 
mediately occupied by the Christians, 
who recruited their exhausted strength 
on the provisions the fugitives had left 
behind them. Here the crusaders held 
a great feast in honour of St. George, 
and formally installed him as their 
patron, on account of the miracle he 
had wrought in their favour at An- 
tioch. The homage paid to him here 
prepared the way for his advancement 
to higher honours. England soon 
adopted him, and other countries of 
Europe followed the example. 

The position of Ramleh made it a 
post of great importance during the 
crusading wars. In the year 1187, 
after the fatal battle of Hattin, the 
town with the whole plain fell into the 
hands of Saladin, but 4 years later 
the approach of Richard of England 
changed the aspect of affairs. The 
Muslems destroyed the castle lest the 
English should occupy it. But notwit! 


278 


standing this the town became the 
head-quarters of Richard, and the plain 
round it was the scene of many of his 
daring exploits. On one occasion, at 
the Feast of All Saints, when riding 
alone, he came upon a band of Turkis 
scouts, attacked them, killed some, cut 
the head off a noble admiral with one 
blow, and chased the remainder to 
the foot of the mountains! On 
another occasion, however, he is said 
to have found a wild boar a more 
formidable adversary than the tur- 
baned Muslem; for after a hard 
struggle he came off with a broken 
lance and wounded charger. In the 
truce between Richard and Saladin 
made in 1192 it was stipulated that 
the plain and coast from Tyre to Y&fa, 
including the half of Ramleh and 
Lydda, should remain in the hands of 
the Christians. In 1202 Ramleh was 
entirely given up to the crusaders, 
and remained in their possession until 
1266, when it was finally captured by 
Sultan Bibars. 


Lyppa or Diospolis, now called Ludd, 
is only 45 min. from Ramleh to the 
N.E., the road running like an avenue 
from the one to the other, between 
gardens and orchards. In situation 
Ludd resembles its sister, with its 
wide circuit of olive-groves, but its 
houses are poorer, its streets dirtier, 
and its environs less carefully culti- 
vated. Adjoining it are the remains 
of the church of St. George, generally 
supposed to have been rebuilt by 
Richard Coeur de Lion; and indepen- 
dent of romance, one of the most 
picturesque ruins in Syria. The walls 
and part of the vault of the eastern 


niche still remain, with the beautiful | i 


pilasters and rich marble capitals 
and cornice. One lofty pointed arch 
stands on the 8. side of the grand 
aisle, and has a striking appearance ;: 
the columns are massive and clustered, 
with marble capitals something in the 
Corinthian style. On the foundations 
of the western end a mosk has been 
built, but here little seems to be left 
of the ancient structure. 

‘.ydda is the Lod of the Old Testa- 


Route 16.—Lydda. 


Sect. IIL 


ment, a city of Benjamin, occupied 
both before and after the Captivity. 
(1 Chron. viii. 12; Ezra ii. 33 ; Neh. 
xi, 35.) The place retains its ancient 
Hebrew name. We are told by Jose 
phus that Cassius, who was for a time 
governor of Juda under the Romans, 
greatly oppressed the land, and soldas 
slaves the whole inhabitants of Lydda, 
and several other towns in its vicinity. 
But Lydda will be chiefly interesting 
to the Christian traveller as the scene 
of Peter's miracle in curing Eneas, 
who had lain eight years in bed “sick 
of the palsy.” And the Apostle was 
still in this city when Dorcas died 
at Joppa; and here the messengers 
came for him across the sandy plain 
—the distance is only about 10 m. 
(Acts ix. 32-39.) Lydda was sub- 
sequently called Diospolis by the 
Romans, by which name it is fre- 
quently mentioned by Eusebius and 
érome. It early became the seat of 
a bishop, an honour which it still 
retains. All Englishmen will regard 
it with peculiar interest as the reputed 
birthplace of their patron saint, and 
the place where he was first specialls 
honoured. The earliest calendars re- 
late that St. George was born at 
Lydda; suffered martyrdom in Nico 
media, under Diocletian, near the 
close of the 3rd centy.; and that his 
body was conveyed to his native town. 
where a church was erected in his 
honour. William of Tyre ascribes its 
erection to Justinian. 


held by them in the highest estima 
tion; the church was rebuilt; an 
the town made the seat of anothe 
(Latin) bishopric. But in less than 
a century Lydda and its church were 
again destroyed by Saladin, on thd 
approach of Richard of England. The 
church was restored, some sa by 
King Richard himself, though that 


S. PALEsTrNe. 


is doubtful. A portion of the build- 
ing was afterwards converted into a 
mosk, and to that circumstance we 
are indebted for the fragments that 
still remain. 

The caravan-road from Lydda to 
Jerusalem crosses a fertile plain, and 
in 45 min, reaches 


Jimzu, the ancient Gimzo, a town 
taken by the Philistines from the 
Israelites in the reign of King Ahaz 
(2 Chron. xxviii. 18). It is now a 
large village situated on an eminence ; 
but there is nothing in it worthy of 
special notice, except the great num- 
ber of subterranean ines, used 
for storing grain, to preserve it both 
from the weather and the Arabs. 
The road s the northern base 
of the little hill, and a short distance 
beyond it branches—one branch lead- 
ing straight up the mountain to Beit 
"Ur; the other diverging to the right 
and leading through Wady Suleiman. 
The latter is the best road; but the 
former is the most interesting, as it 
passes through both the Bethhorons ; 
the two branches unite again near el- 
Jib, the ancient Gibeon. We take 
that by Beit Ur. 


In about 2h. from Jimzu is a ruin 
called Um Rush, with a wel) beside 
it. From it we see on the8.E., nearly 
a mile off, the small village of el-Bury, 
« The Tower,” on an isolated hill, and 
having the appearance of an old site. 
Dr. Robinson suggests that it may, 
probably, occupy the place of the 
ancient fort of Thamna, mentioned 
by Josephus as on the road from 
Diospolis to Jerusalem. From Um 
Rush the road descends into a wady, 
and then strikes up the side of a stony 
ridge, on whose crest (1 h. from Um 
Rush) stands Beit’ Ur et-Tahta, “ Beit 
"Ur the lower.” Itis a small miserable 
hamlet, but there are some foundations 
and heaps of large stones, now the 
only remains of Bethhoron the Nether. 
This town lay on the north-western 
somer of the territory of Benjamin ; 
znd was separated from the upper 
town of the same name by a pass 


Route 17.—Hebron to Yéfa. 


279 


called the “Descent of Bethhoron,” 
down which Joshua drove the 5 
Amorite kings. (Josh. x. 11. See 
Rte. 10.) Though on the border 
of Benjamin, Bethhoron belonged to 
the tribe of Ephraim, and was allotted 
out of that tribe to the Levites. (Id. 
xxi. 22; ] Chron. vi. 68.) From hence 
we descend into a wady, and then 
commence the long and steep ascent 
of the rugged hill-side. The road 
zigzags up the extremity of a kind of 
promontory which juts out between 
two deep valleys. The rock is in 
many places hewn away, and the path 
cut into steps. On the top of the 
first projection, or offset, are massive 
foundations, apparently of a castle 
intended to defend the pass. $ h. 
higher is Beit ‘Ur el-Fo Upper 
Bethhoron, distant from the lower 1 h. 
_ For an account of this place, and 
the road hence to Jerusalem (44 h.), 
see Rte. 10. 


ROUTE 17. 
HEBRON TO YAFA. 

H. MN. 

Hebron to Terkfimieh, Trico- 
Mids .. .. « oo «« 8 0 
voit Nusib, Nezib .. .. « 085 
y es-Sumt, Valley of Elah 2 10 
Beit Nettif .... ys -- 0 80 
Ain esh-Shems, BETHSHEMESH 1 80 
:) | - 4 90 
Yafa, Joppa a 3 30 
Total .. 15 15 


In this route there are not many 
places of interest, yet, as it leads us 
across the valley of lah, where Dav!” 


280 
killed Goliath, and also through the 
country of Samson's boyh and 


early exploite, it is not altogether 
devoid of attractions. It forms the 
easiest and quickest route, too, from 
Hebron to Vita, which may be an 
object to those pressed for time, or 
anxious to meet a steamer. It can 
be made more interesting by a détour 
to Beit Jibrin, the ancient 

polis ; to Shuweikeh, the ancient 
Socoh; and to’Akir, Ekron; but these 
require an additional day. They are 
embraced in Rtes. 14 and 16. 


On leaving Hebron we follow the 
northern Beit Jibrin road (Rte. 14) 
for 2 h. over the mountains to Tai- 
yibeh, and from thence we proceed 
another hour, gradually descending 
from the mountain ridge of Judah to 
the hilly region at its base. We then 
reach a Point in a valley where the 
village of Terkfimieh is a few minutes 
on our left, perched on the top of a 
rocky ridge. This is the ancient Tri- 
comias, an episcopal city of Palestina 
Prima, enumerated in the earliest and 
latest ecclesiastical Notitivx, There 
are now no ruins; but the stones of 
earlier structures were probably used 
in building the modern houses, From 
hence to Beit Jibrin is 2} h., straight 
down the valley westward. We here 
leave the Beit Jibrin road, and turn 
to the N.W. over a low ridge intoa 
long green wady that winds away 
before us. On the right above it are 
the extensive ruins o 


Beit Nusib, the Nrzis of the plain 
of Judah (Josh. xv. 43), and the 
Nasib of Eusebius and Jerome—the 
latter places it 7 Rom. m. from Eleu- 
theropolis. Here is a ruined tower 
about 60 ft. sq., solidly built; some of 
the larger blocks are bevelled, but the 
crevices are cobbled with smaller 
stones, something like the old fortress 
of Masada. The interior is vaulted; 
but as it is dark, and infested, 
like many another place, dark and 
clear, in Syria, with myriads of fleas, 
few will undertake the task of ex- 
‘Toring it. Not far from it are the 


Route 17.—-Hebron to Yafa. 


Sect. ITi. 


foundations of another and still old 
structure, measuring 120 ft. long ts 
80 wide. On a mound to the §. ar 
more ruins; and the whole surrow: 
ing ground is strewn with squared 
stones and fragments of columns. 


The road now winds down Wa! 
es-Sar, ing in 50 min. Bir ee-sr. 
“The Well of Sar,” which gives i: 
name to the valley. In 50 min. mor 
it intersects the ancient road from 
Jerusalem to Eleutheropolis. (Rt. 
14.) At the point of intersect: 
stands one of the largest and me 
beautiful butm-trees in Syria. “This. 
says Dr. Robinson, “is without dov: 
the terebinth of the Old Testament 
and under the shade of such a tr 
Abraham might well have pitched L: 
tent at Mamre. The betm is not « 
evergreen, as is often represented: 
but its small feathered lancet-shap. 
leaves fall in the autumn and a& 
renewed in the spring. The flower 
are small, and are followed by smi! 
oval berries, hanging in clusters fre: 
2 to 5 in. long, resembling much ti: 
clusters of the vine when the grap 
are just set. From incisions in tl! 

there is said to flow a sort« 
transparent balsam, constituting : 
very pure and fine species of turpet 
tine, with an agreeable odour like citr: 
or jessamine, and a mild taste, at: 
hardening gradually into a transparct: 
gum.” The butm is the Pistacea ter 
binthus of botanists, and the Eilah«: 
Alah of the Bible. It is worthy « 
notice that Wady es-Sar, in which thi: 
tree stands, joins, $ m. farther down 
Wady es-Sumt, not far from the ruin 
of Socoh, where David killed Goliath 
(Rte. 14.) Wady es-Sumt was the: 
called the Valley of Elah, that is th 
“Valley of the Terebinth.” { 


h. below the butm-tree Wad 
es-Sar bends to the left, and our roq 
going straight on crosses tht 4g, 
point of a ridge into Wady Musu: 
which a little farther to the left tuk 
the name of es-Sumt (“Acacia V; 
ley”). The ridge we cross terminat 
between the two valleys in a round 
rocky tell, on which are some ye- 


S. Pavestine, Route 17.—Bethshemesh. 281 
ancient ruins called Jurfah, consisting ' away westward into the plain. A 


_ of the foundations of a square struc- 

_ ture, with heaps of large hewn stones 
all round it, and several subterranean 
magazines or cisterns, hewn in the 

_ rock. The situation is very beautiful 
—commanhding the view of Wady es- 
Sumt to Tell Zakariya, and looki 
up along both Wady es-Sfr and Wady 
Musurr. From the latter valley we 
ascend the steep ridge to Beit Nettif 
(30 min.), for a description of which 
see Rte. 14. 


From Beit Nettif we proceed north- 

. ward across a wild glen and over a 
. rocky ridge. On the crest of the 
~ latter, a little to the left of the path, 
stands Yarmik, s small village con- 
taining: nothing to attract attention. 
It is the site of the ancient JaRMUTH, 
one of the cities that united against 

_ the Gibeonites, and whose kings 
Joshua hanged at Makkedah. (Josh. 
x. 8.) It belonged to “the valley” or 
. “low-lands” of Judah, and was not 
far from Adullam and Socoh (id. xv. 
35). Eusebius places it 10 m, from 

’ Eleutheropolis on the road to Jeru- 
_ Bpalem, These notices establish its 
identity. ; 


. From the ridge of Yarmtk we de- 
scend by a rugged path into a green 
valley, with corn-fields in its bed, and 

_ wild shrubbery along its sides, having 

_ the ridge we crossed running parallel 

- on the left, and the mountains of 

' Judah rising up in dark masses on 
the right. Down this we wind to Ain 
esh-Shems, distant 14 h. from Beit 
Nettif. 


BerusHeMeEsh, “The House of the 
Sun,” is now called Ain esh-Shems, 
“ The Fountain of the Sun,” and yet 
there is neither “house” nor “foun- 
tain” on the site. The ruins of Beth- 
shemesh are beautifully situated on 
the rounded point of a low ridge, 

af having the great Wady Sur&r on the 
;, one side, and a smaller wady which 
yj comes down from Yarmik on _ the 
, Other. The two unite below it, form- 
jy Ing @ broad fertile vale, which runs 
nt 


flat-topped tell on the crest of the 
ridge, covered with confused heaps of 
stones and fragments of old walls, 
appears to be the true site of the 
ancient city. A couple of hundred 
yds. to the E. are the ruins of a 
modern village, and a domed wely in 
tolerable repair. Huge thistles and 
yellow marigolds covered almost every- 
thing except the wely when I was 
there (April 1857). They looked gay 
enough in the distance ; but the 
thistles are formidable antagonists to 
an explorer. In fact, there is nothing 
to explore ; the city has become 
“heaps;” the na ‘features, the 
surrounding scenery, and the historic 
associations are the only objects of 
interest. One can still follow with 
the eye the path along which the 
ark must have come up from Ekron ; 
and down in the valley at our feet the 
men of Bethshemesh were reaping 
when they saw it approaching; and 
the eye doubtless rests unconsciously 
en the very rock on which the ar 
was set, 

The specifications of Eusebius and 
Jerome’s invaluable Onomasticon fix 
the site of Bethshemesh, as of many 
another old city. It lay to the E. of 
the road leading from Eleutheropolis 
to Nicopolis, 10 Rom. m. from the for- 
mer; a position exactly answering to 
"Ain esh-Shems, The topographical 
notices in Scripture are also very 
precise. Bethshemesh was a sacer- 
dotal city of the tribe of Judah, on 
the borders of Dan and Philistia; 
between Chesalon and Timnah. (Josh. 
xxi. 16, xv. 10, xix. 41; 1 Sam. vi. 12.) 
The tribe of Dan received a portion 
of the large lot of Judah, and among 
its towns is Ir-shemesh, which is doubt- 
less the same as Bethshemesh. (Josh. 
xix. 41 : comp. 1 Kings iv. 9.) This 
town is chiefly celebrated as the place 
to which the Philistines brought the 
ark from Ekron. The inhabitants, 
at the time of its arrival, were reap- 
ing their wheat-harvest in the valley 
—the present Wady Surfr—which 
skirts the ridge on which the ruins 
stand, The cart was drawn into the 
fleld of Joshua, a Bethshemite, and 


282 


the ark was there set upon a rock. 
A fatal curiosity prompted some to 
look into it; and for this breach of an 
express command more than 50,000 
people died. In consequence of such 
a fearful judgment the people of 
Bethshemesh sent to those of Kirjath- 
jearim, entreating them to take away 
the ark, which they did. (1 Sam. vi. 
and vii.) In later times Bethshemesh 
was the residence of one of Solo- 
mon’s 12 purveyors. (1 Kings iv. 9.) 
It was also the scene of the battle 
between Judah and Israel in which 
Amaziah was taken prisoner by Jeho- 
ash. (2 Kings xiv. 11-13.) After its 
capture by the Philistines in the reign 
of Ahaz it is not mentioned in sacred 
history. (2 Chron. xxviii. 18.) 

We see around us at Bethshemesh 
the native country of Samson, and 
the scenes of some of the principal 
events of his life. Standing amid the 
stones and thistles on the little hill, 
and turning northward, we have at 
our feet, running from right to left, 
Wady Surf, nearly a mile in width ; 
beyond it rises a steep high ridge—a 
kind of promontory jutting out from 
the hills of Judah—crowned with a 
little white wely; this marks the 

ition of Sar’ah, a small miserable 
let situated on the declivity just 
behind the wely. It contains no 
traces of antiquity except a cistern 
and some scarped rocks; yet it is the 
site of Zoran, the birthplace of Samson. 
(Jud. xiii. 2.) The intervening wady 
is most probably the “ valley of Sorek,” 
the home of the infamous Delilah. 
(Id. xvi. 4.) Jerome places it N. 
of Eleutheropolis and near Zorah. 
About 14 m. W. of Bethshemersh, but 
hidden by an intervening ridge, is 
a village called Tibneh, occupying the 
site of the ancient TiMNATH, where 
Samson got his Philistine wife. (Jud. 
xiv. 1.) It was in “going down” from 
Zorah to Timnath—somewhere per- 
haps in the rugged sides of the wady 
—he killed the young lion that 
“roared against him ;” and it was in 
the latter place he put forth his cele- 
brated riddle to his Philistine com- 
anions -—“‘ Out of the eater came 
orth meat, and out of the strong 


Route 17.—Bethshemesh. 


Sect. III. 


came forth sweetness.” (Jud. xiv. 
14.) It was among these dark hills 
he afterwards caught 300 yo 
foxes, and, tying them tail to tail, an 
putting a torch between each two, let 
them loose over the broad plain to 
the W. among the standing corn of 
the Philistines. What havoc they 
must have made! In revenge for this 
the Philistines came up to Timnath 
and burned Samson's wife and her 
father with fire. (Jud. xv. 1-6.) The 
whole story of Samson’s life will be 
read here with intense interest. It 
was from Zorah, and the neighbouring 
town of Hshtaol—now unknown—that 
the 5 Danite spies, “men of valour,” 
went away to Laish in search of some 
new possessions for the increasing 
tribe. They probably found them- 
selves unable to dispossess the warlike 
¥ hilistinos, and were thus, desirous 
of obtaini ions alike more 
easily ined and. defended. (Jud. 
xviii. 2.) About 3m. N.E. of Beth- 
shemesh, on the northern side of the 
great valley, is another ancient site,— 
anf'a, the Zanoah of Josh. xv. 34, 
and of Neh. xi. 30; and some 2 m. 
farther up among the mountains lies 
Keslu, doubtless the Chesalon of the 
border of Judah, between Kirjath- 
Jearim , and Bethshemesh. (Josh, xv. 


From Bethshemesh the traveller 
who has time should ride down the 
valley of Surfir to Ekron (’Akir), 
about 3 hrs. distant, thus following, 
but in reverse order, the route of the 
ark. Having already visited that 
old city in Rte. 16, we shall now 
proceed straight across the country to 
Ramleh. 


Descending from the ruins of ’Ain 
esh-Shems we cross Wady Surair ob- 
liquely, and then strike up the north- 
ern bank by a rather steep track. 
In 25 min. the wide-spread ruins of 
Rafat, a large village, lie upon the rt. 
From this point there is a noble view 
of the great valley winding across the 
undulating plain to the sea. The path 
now descends into the plain, which is 
rather hilly and broken at this place ; 


S. PAvEstTIne. 


but still fertile, and covered with 
luxuriant crops of grain. In 1h. 15 
min. more are the ruins of a village 
called Beit Far, “The House of th 
Mouse;” and $ h. beyond it Khulda 
is passed on a hill to the rt. Said6n 
is 4m. N. of it, also to the rt. of the 

ath. 2 hrs. more across the i 
“brings us to Ramleh. (Rte. 16.) 

Ramleh to Yffa 34 hrs. See Rte. 
18, 


ROUTE 18. 

- JERUSALEM TO YAPFA, 
H. M. 
Jerusalem to Kolonieh .. .. 1 30 
Kuryet el-’Enab, Kirjathjearim 1 80 
Latr6n ... .. . . «« 8 Q 
Ramleh .. .. «2 oo o« 3 Q 
Beit Dejin .. .. .. . 1 380 
Y&fa, JOPPA... oe of eo 1 380 
Total ee ee oe ee 12 0 


One of the most dreary rides in 
Palestine is that from Jerusalem to 
Yaéfa. As far as Latrén at the base 
of the hills the road is wretched, 
rugged, steep, and slippery; but across 
the great plain from Latrén to Yafa 
it can almost all be got over at a 
gallop. The whole distance, making 
allowance for the zigzags and rather 
steep gradients, cannot be less than 
.36 geographical m. With luggage it 
takes 12 hrs. ; but I have done it in 7} 
on the same horse, and not a very 
good one either. Where time is no 
object the Bethhoron road is much to 
be preferred, as it takes one through 
a number of intgresting sites; it is 
described in Rtes. 16 and 10, Those 


Route 18.—Jerusalem to Yafa. 


283 


who land at Yafa to visit Jerusalem, 
and then go northward, should by all 
means take it. 


On leaving the Holy City the road 
traverses for some h. a barren 
rocky plateau—one of the bleakest 


lain | tracks in a bleak region. It then 


dives suddenly down into a little glen 
which leads it into the great Wady 
Beit Hanina, As we approach the 
bottom we have vineyards and fig- 
orchards on the rt. and 1., varied here 
and there by old olives. After crose- 
ing the dry river-bed the road runs 
up another glen that falls in from the 
W.; and here on the rt., on the point of 
the ridge formed by the junction of the 
two, stands the little village of Kolo- 
nieh. The situation is picturesque ; 
the terraced orchards and vineyards 
encompassing the flat-roofed cottages ; 
the gray hill-tops rising high over 
them; and the dark belts of olives 
almost filling the deep glens below, 
A few fragments of massive walls, 
that may have belonged to a temple 
or a fortress, are seen beside the road, 
but now they have neither name nor 
story. Looking down the valley south- 
ward, we get a blink at ‘Ain Karim 
and its convent, on the hill-side amid 
olive-groves. 


The road now winds up the little 
side-glen, here and there hewn in the 
limestone rock, After 4 an hour's 
hard climbing we gain the crest of a 
ridge; here a few 4gmdred yards to 
the 1., on the top of a tell, is the ruin 
called Kustiil, evidently a modern 
form of the Latin Castellum (castle). 
This was, doubtless, a fortress in- 
tended to guard the Descend- 
ing again through rocky ground for 4 
h. we observe, a short distance to 
the 1. of the path, an old Roman 
arch spanning a little torrent-bed. It 
marks the line of the ancient road, 
which time and cultivation have de- 
atroyed. Séba now comes in sight on 
the very summit of a conical peak to 
the 8. of Kustil. It is the most con- 
spicuous site in the whole region, and 
is doubtless ancient; but it has never 
yet been satisfactorily identified. Two. 


284 


theories exist—one that it is Modin, 
the native place of the Maccabees ; 
this, however, is impossible, for that 
city was situated in or near the plain, 
within sight of the sea: another, that 
it is the long-lost Ramathaim-Zophim, 
or e home of Samuel; but 
to say the least, the position is as un- 
likely as any of the others that have 
been chosen for that city. A man 
hastening home from Sdéba to Tuleil 
el-Fl, the ancient Gibeah, would not, 
if in his senses, go away round by 
Rachel’s sepulchre at Bethlehem ; yet 
Saul must have done so if Séba be 
Ramah. (1 Sam. x.) 


A deep glen is now on our |., coming 
from the W., and running away south- 
ward among dark hills into Wady Is- 
m'ain, a continuation of Beit Hanfna. 
Low down, the sides are terraced for 
the fig and the vine; higher up is 
dark brush and dwarf oak, among the 
gray rocks. The road keeps along 
the bank, turning a little to the rt. 
for some distance, and then, winding 
round to the 1, crosses the glen near 
its head to Kuryet el-’Enab. 


KIRJATH-JEARIM, now Kuryet el- 
"Enab, stands on the rt. bank of a wady, 
the same along which we have come a 
part of the way from Kustil. Ithasa 
picturesque look with its fine old ch., 
and castle-like houses, and large olive- 
groves, and terraced slopes ; but there 
is an air of negkect and decay about 
the whole that tells of recent indo- 
lence or misfortune, The village con- 
sists of a number of substantial stone 
houses, grouped round 2 or 3, which 
from their size and strength might 
almost be called castles. There are 
the hereditary mansions of the family 
of the once celebrated chief Abu 
Ghaush, whose daring robberies and 
cold-blooded murders for a long time 
kept the whole country in terror, 
Turkish pashas included. The wild 
ravine down which the road runs, 
from the mountain ridge W. of the 
village to the great plain, was often 
the scene of his exploits. His safe- 
conduct was necessary to clear the 


Route 18.—Kirjathjearim. 


Sect. III. 


pass; and woe betide the solitary 
traveller, or heavy-laden caravan, that 
attempted it without his permission! 
On one occasion 2 pashas were shot 
dead in the midst of their retinues by 
this daring bandit. At last, however, 
after nearly $4 a centy. of power and 
crime, the tardy vengeance of the 
Turkish government overtook them. 
The chief himself and a number of 
his principal men were seized in 1846 
and sent to Constantinople. The sub- 
sequent fortunes of 3 of them were 
told to Dr. Robinson by a member of 
the family—one had died in banish- 
ment; another was still an exile in 
Bosnia; and a third, after a banishment 
of 5 years spent at Widdin, had re- 
turned home the previous year (1851). 
A number of the family still occupy 
the village, and, though forced by cir- 
cumstances to be a little more circum- 
spect, their character has not much 
improved. 

side the village stands an old 
Gothic ch., deserted and desecrated, 


but not ruined. When I was Iast in | 


it, it was half filled with cows and 
horses. The interior is divided intoa 
nave and aisles by 6 square pillars 
supporting plain pointed arches, and 
a groined roof still nearly. perfect. 
There is a clerestory with small win- 
dows. At the eastern end are 3 semi- 
circular apses. The style is very plaia 
and massive, but chaste. One is chiefly 
struck with the gloominess of the in- 
terior, the immense thickness of the 
walls, the smallness of the lancet win- 
dows, and the position of the door 
stuck in the northern side wall. The 
building might have served at any 
time the double purpose of ch. and 
fortress—a valuable peculiarity in the 
stormy days when it was built. A Fran- 
ciscan convent was originally attached 
to it by its crusading founders, but 
not a trace of it now remains. Some 
late writers have affirmed that both 
ch. and convent were dedicated to St. 
Jeremiah (the Prophet), whose birth- 
place a monkish tradition, false of 
course, makes this to be. ~ 

There cannot be a doubt that Kuryet 
el-’Enab, “the Village of Grapes,”” oc. 
cupies the site of Kirjathjearim, “the 


b 


d 


» 
' 


S. PALESTINE. 


Village of Forests,” which Jerome 
places at the 10th mile from Jerusalem, 
on the road to Diospolis (Lydda). It 
was originally one of the cities of the 
Gibeonites who beguiled the Israelites 
into a league. (Josh, ix. 17.) It was 
also called Kirjath-Baal, and stood on 
the 8.W. angle of the territory of 
Benjamin. This fact makes it of great 
importance to those who study the 
boundaries of the tribes, The north- 
ern border of Judah can now be traced 
with considerable exactness, as we 
have a whole line—a crooked one it 
is true—of known landmarks: the 
mouth of the Jordan, Beth-Hoglah, 
the pass of Adummim, Enrogel, the 
Valley of Hinnom, Rachel’s sepulchre, 
Kirjath-jearim, Chesalon, Bethshe- 
mesh, Timnath, Ekron, Mount Baalah, 
Jabneel to the sea. (Josh. xv. 5-11. 
«Consult the Index.) There is some 
mystery about the bringing of the ark 
to Kirjath-jearim. Why the priests of 
Bethshemesh (Josh. xxi. 13, 16) should 
send to the Gibeonites of Kirjath-jearim 
Cid. ix. 17-27) to take away to their 
city the Ark of the Lord is difficult 
to understand; perhaps they thought 
that, as death seemed to follow it 
everywhere, they would let these poor 
slaves be the sufferers; or perhaps a 
priestly family of note had settled on 
the “hill” above Kirjath-jearim, to 
whose care it was thought best to 
consign the sacred shrine. We are 
told they “brought it into the house 
of Abinadab in the hill, and sanctified 
Eleazer his son to keep. the Ark of 
the Lord.” (1 Sam. vii. 1.) The 
ark remained here until it was taken 
by King David to Jerusalem. 


On leaving Kuryet el-’Enab the 
road crosses a ridge, and immediately 
enters a wild region of glen and moun- 
tain, thickly covered with dark shrub- 
bery of dwarf oak, hawthorn, and rock- 
rose, among which the sharp white 
points of the limestone rock every- 
where shoot up. We descend gra- 
dually for some }# h. to Sédris, a 
small village situated in the midst of 
olive-trees on the 1.; on the rt., crown- 
ing a tell, is a ruin called Beit Fejjél, 
apparently of some antiquity. Here 


Route 18.— Wady ’ Aly. 


285 


a break-neck path leads us down into 
the rugged picturesque glen of Wady 
‘Aly. A more convenient place for 
lurking bandits could not be imagined, 
The road is so bad that it is impossible 
to flee from threatening danger; the 
tangled dwarf forest is so dense that 
it is impossible to see it; and the 
sharp rocks in places so close to the 
natrow path, that the muzzle of the 
rifle may touch the traveller’s breast 
while its owner is hid by the project- 
ing cliff. Yet this wild ravine is not 
without some signs of industry. Here 
and there a few perches of ground are 
cleared and planted with olives; and 
little terraces have been built up along 
the mountain sides to hold a patch of 
corn or clump of vines. An hour’s 
fast ride—and few will wish to loiter 
in such a place—brings us to Bab el- 
Wady, “The Door of the Wady,” 
where the ravine opens into a little 
fertile plain. To the rt. of the road 
20 min. below the “door ” is a square 
tower-like building called Deir EKydb, 
“Job's Convent;” and in $ h. more 
we pass through the half-ruined vil- 
lage of L&trén, the Castellum boni 
Latronis of the monks, which may 
be freely and truly rendered “The 
Thieves’ Den.” Here are the ruins 
of a large strong fortress strewn over 
the summit of a rocky tell command- 
ing a wide view over the plain and 
the sea beyond. The substructions 
are Roman, if not earlier; but the 
pointed arches, and lighter architec- 
ture of the upper walls, are of a much 
more recent period. This is unques- 
tionably the Castellum Emmaus of the 
crusaders, and was erected to com- 
mand the approach through the glen 
to Jerusalem; and as it is near Em- 
maus it may have served as an outpost 
and defence to that city. In the 
latter part of the 14th centy. it, got 
its monkish name from the legend 
which makes it the birthplace of 
the “Penitent Thief’ —Boni Latronis. 
“ But in whatever relation this fortress 
may later have stood to Emmaus, it 
seems not improbable,” says Dr. Robin- 
son, “that this spot was the site of the 
ancient Modin, the residence of the 
Maccabees (1 Mac. ii. 1, 15, 23); at 


286 
position and elevation cor- 
t 


respond than ther place 

ter any other place, 
with the circumstances narrated of 
Modin. In that town the Maccabees 
lived and were buried (id. ii. 70; 
xiii. 25); and there Simon erected a 
lofty monument with 7 pyramids to 
their memory. Modin lay adjacent to 
the great plain; and the monument 
was visible to all who sailed along the 
sea. (Id. xiii. 29; xvi. 4, 5). Euse- 
bius and Jerome likewise testify that 
Modin was not far from Lydda; and 
that the sepulchres remained in their 
day. The writers of the time of the 
crusades speak indefinitely of Modin 
as somewhere in this vicinity. To all 
the circumstances thus enumerated 
the elevated and isolated tell of Latrén 
well corresponds.” 


Emmaus or Nicoro.is.—About 1 m. 
to the N.E. of LAtrén, in full view, is 
the small miserable village of ’Amwais, 
situated on the western declivity of 
a low hill. It contains the ruins of a 
fine old ch., and a fountain famed far 
and wide many centuries ago for its 
wondrous virtue in curing man an 
beast. This is the site of the ancient 
Emmaus or Nicopolis, situated at the 
foot of the mountains, and, according 
to the Jerusalem Itinerary, 22 Rom. m. 
from Jerusalem, and 10 from Lydda. 
The name does not occur in Scripture ; 
but the town rose to importance dur- 
ing the later history of the Jews, and 
was a place of much note during the 
wars of the Asmoneans. It was for- 
tified by Bacchides, the general of 
Antiochus Epiphanes, when he was 
engaged in war with Jonathan Mac- 
cabsus. It was in the plain beside 
Emmaus Judas Maccabsous so signally 
defeated the Syrians with a handful 
of men, as related in 1 Mac.iv. About 
the year A.D. 220 the city was rebuilt 
by the exertions of Julius Africanus, 
the celebrated Christian author to 
whose writings Eusebius owes 80 
much; it was then called Nicopolis, 
and is often referred to by Eusebius 
and Jerome as a known landmark to 
fix the positions of towns and villages 
round it. 


Route 18,— Emmaus.— Ajalon. 


Sect. TT. 


Itis somewhat remarkable that from 
the 3rd to the 13th centy. the opinion 
was universal among Christian writers 
that this city was that Emmaus tu 
which the two disciples were 
from Jerusalem when our Lord ap- 
peared to them on the day of his 
resurrection. But the express state- 
ment of the Evangelist, and the whole 
circumstances of the narrative, appear 
to make this impossible. Luke states 
that Emmaus was distant from Jeru- 
salem “threescore furlongs "—Nico- 
polis is a hundred and siaty. Besides, 
the two disciples, having come from 
Jerusalem to Emmaus in a part ofa 
day, returned there the same evening 
after Christ had revealed Himself to 


them. If this be Emmaus, they must | 


have walked that day a distance of 
forty miles! (Luke xxiv. 13-35.) 


AJALON.—About 2 m. E. of "Amwis 
is the village of Yalo, situated on a 
rojecting ridge of the mountain over- 
ooking 6 plain of Merj Ibn ’Omeir. 
This is the Ajalon of Scripture, a city 
of the tribe of Dan (Josh. xix. 42); 


djand the plain below is: that “ Valley 


of Aj ” over which Joshua com- 
manded the moon to stand still until 
he had smitten the Amorites. (Josh. 
x. 12. See Rte. 10.) 


In the plain N. of Yalo, 4 h. 
distant, is Bett Niubah, a village cele- 
brated in the time of the crusaders— 
first, as Castellum Arnaldi, built by 
the Patriarch of Jerusalem to protect 
the road to that city through Wady 
Suleimfin; and second, as the place 
to which Richard of England, in June 
1192, led his army from Ascalon on 
the way to besiege Jerusalem. On 
arriving there the king ordered his 
tent to be pitched on the higher side 
of the castle. A few days afterwards 
a@ spy informed him that a band of 
Turks were lying in the mountains 
waiting to plunder stragglers. He at 
once set out in search of them, and 
discovered them at the fountain of 
Amwis. Attacking them unawares, 
he killed 20, captured Saladin’s herald, 

! and put the rest to flight. But even 


ing 


| 
i 


8. PALESTINE, 


brilliant skirmishes like this could 
not atone for weeks of inglorious 
repose which he spent here with his 
army. He rode up once within sight 
of the Holy City, gave utterance to 
@ noble sentiment te. 10), and like 
the King of France rode back again. 
He finally marched his troops from 
Beit Ndbah to Y&fa, concluded a peace 
with Saladin, and left Palestine for 
ever, 


. Returning to Latrén, we resume our 

route.- On descending from the rocky 
tell we cross a rich section of the 
plain through which Wady ‘Aly winds 
in a north-western direction to join the 
Aujeh, and in an hour reach Kubab, 
& large poor village, filled with beg- 
gars—the most importunate I have 
ever met in Palestine, thanks to 
the ill-directed charity of Frank tra- 
vellers. It stands like Latrén on a 
rocky tell, and is surrounded by olive- 
groves and gardens fenced in with 
prickly -pears. 2 hrs. more across 
the bleak plain brings us to Ramieh. 
Jimzu, the ancient Gimzo, and a amall 
village called ’Anabeh, are visible to 
the rt.; but only one half-ruined ham- 
let appears on the 1, and it is such a 
nest of thieves that the government 
have twice burned it to ashes within 
the last 4 centy. 


Around Ramleh (Rte. 16), as the 
name implies, the plain is “sandy,” 
and it continues so the whole way to 
Yafa. I¢ is only a vigorous vegetation 
that prevents the sand from being 
bare and destructive as the downs of 
Gaza and Ascalon. Much of it is 
under culture; and as we advance we 
see, away on the rt., a splendid tract 
of meadow-land, alive with flocks and 
herds, and dotted with ominous black 
tents. A short distance 8S. of the 
road, and 4 h. from Ramleh, is the 
- Village of Surafend, which may per- 

haps be the Sariphea spoken of in 
connexion with Ascalon and Gaza 
as having been destroyed during the 
civil wars of the Saracens in A.D. 756. 
In another hour Beit Dejan is on the 
rt., amid pine and olive groves, The 
name (Beth Dagon) is ancient, and it 


Route 18.—Joppa. 


287 


recalls the old deity of the Philis- 
tines. } h. farther is Yashr—some old 
Hazor—soon after passing which we 
enter the orange-groves of Yafa; and 
finally reach its crowded gate after 
an hour's weary ride through deep 
sandy lanes, with an atmosphere like 
an English hothouse. 


JOPPA or JAPHO, now called Ydfa, 
and by Franks Jaffa, is beautifull 
situated on a little rounded hill, 
dipping on the W. into the waves of 
the Mediterranean ; and encompassed 
on the land side by orchards of oranges, 
lemons, citrons, and apricots, scarcely 

ed in the world. Like most 
oriental towns, however, it looks best 
at a distance. The houses are huddled 
together without the least regard to 
appearance or convenience ; the streets 
are only a labyrinth of blind alleys, and 
narrow, crooked, filthy lanes; and the 
whole town is so crowded along the 
steep sides of the hill, that the rickety 
mansions in the upper part seem to 
be toppling over on the fiat roofs of 
those below them. Still Yafa has an 
air of bustle and thrift about it, which 
makes some amends for its architecture 
and its dirt. It has been needlessly 
honoured with an English consul ; 
for except to be out of the way, or to 
make money, it will be difficult to dis- 
cover what a consul has to do here. 
It has no port; and it is only under 
favourable circumstances a vessel can 
lie a mile or two from the shore. 
Many a time the steamers pass without 
being able to land either a mail or a 
passenger. There is indeed a place 
along the shore which has sometimes 
been dignified by the name of “the 
harbour.” It consists of a strip of 
water from 40 to 50 ft. wide, and from 
5 to 10 deep, surrounded on the sea 
side by low and partially sunk rocks. 
It has two entrances—one on the W. 
10 ft. wide, and the other on the N. 
not much larger. Such a spot may 
afford a little shelter to open boats ; 
but it is worse than useless so far 
as commerce is concerned ; for when 
there is the least swell it makes 
landing both difficult and dangerous. 


ad 


288 * Route 18.—Joppa. 


The town is defended by a wall, on 
which a few old guns are mounted 
toward the sea. On the land side 
there is but one gate, and it is always 
so crowded with donkeys, camels, and 
lazy Arabs, that one has difficulty in 
forcing his way through. Just within 
it is a fountain adorned with a pro- 
fusion of carving and Arabic inserip- 
tions. The bazaars are well supplied 
with excellent fruit, especially oranges, 
for which Yafa is the most celebrated 
place in Syria. ere is abundance, 
too, of old arms, old clothes, dogs, and 
Bedawin. 

Yafa contains about 5000 Inhab., of 
whom 1000 are Christians, about 150 
Jews, and the rest Muslems. French 
steamers now (1858) call (weather per- 
mitting of course) on alternate Wednes- 
days, bringing European mails from 
Alexandria, and proceeding north- 
ward to Beyrout and Constantinople. 
Also on the Thursdays following, taking 
mails to Alexandriafor Europe. Aus- 
trian steamers likewise call about 
once a fortnight, but their times 
are frequently changing. Travellers 
arriving at Yafa to travel inland will 
easily find horses and mules to carry 
them and their baggage to Jerusalem, 
where further arrangement can be 
more easily made. Those not as yet 
provided with the luxury of dragoman 
will find polyglott Jew boys about 
the “harbour,” with enough of some 
known tongue to interpret, and show 
the lions. 

With the exception of a few frag- 
ments of granite columns, and some 
old stones built up in the walls, chiefly 
rifled from the palaces of Ascalon, 
there are no remains of antiquity in 
Yafa. ‘There are three m and 
three small convents—Latin, Greek, 
and Armenian. The Armenian con- 
vent was used as an hospital during 
the occupation of the town by the 
French troops. And here Napoleon 
committed an act which is not only an 
everlasting disgrace to the man, but a 
dark stain on the history of a civilized 
nation that had stains enough without 


Sect. ITI. 


invited such of the suffering soldiers 
as had sufficient strength to get into 
the litters prepared for their use. He 
walked through the rooms, affecting a 
careless air, striking his boot with his 
riding whip, in order to remove the 
apprehensions in regard to the con- 
tagious nature of the malady. After 

capable of removal had been placed 
in their litters, there was still a 
number—from four to five hundred— 
left behind. at was to be done 
with them? A humane man would 
have made some provision for their 
safety at all hazards; a reckless man 
would have left them to their fate; 
but Napoleon ordered them to te 
POISONED! It must be recorded to 
the honour of the chief of his medical 
staff, that, when the proposal was 
made to him, he proudly replied, 
““My vocation is to prolong life, not 
to extinguish it.” Others were found, 
however, ready even to murder at 
tyrant’s command, And this, unfor- 
tunately, is not the only act of inhuman 
cruelty Napoleon perpetrated during 
his brief stay at Y&fa; but I reserve 
an account of those horrors for their 
place in the historical sketch. 

Y&fa is traditionally the oldest city 
in the world, for Pliny says it existed 
before the flood, and even historically 
it is a place of high antiquity. Among 
the maritime towns allotted to the 
tribe of Dan we find the name Japho 
—a remarkable instance of the tenacity 
of Shemitic names. (Josh. xix. 46.) It 
next appears as the port at which the 
floats of cedar and pine from Lebanon, 
for the building of the Temple, were 
landed. (2 Chron, ii. 16.) And after 
the return from the captivity, Ezra 
tells us that the Jews gave “meat, and 
drink, and oil, unto them of Zidon, 
and to them of Tyre, to bring cedar- 
trees from Lebanon to the sea of 
Joppa,” for rebuilding the “House of 
the Lord.” (Ezra iii. 7.) And it was 
at Joppa Jonah embarked for Tar- 
shish, in his vain attempt to escape 
an unpleasant mission to Nineveh. 
(Jon. i. 3.) Here, too, Peter the 


it. Just before his retreat across the | Apostle raised Tabitha from the dead, 
desert to Egypt, Napoleon visited the | and resided many days in the house 
plague hospital in this house, and | of “Simon the tanner.” The house is 


S. PALESTINE. 


still shown to the faithful. And it 
was here that, while praying on the 
house-top, he saw that strange vision 
of clean and unclean beasts, and 
creeping things, and heard the voice 
saying, “Rise, Peter; kill and eat.” 
(Acts ix. 36-43; x. 9-18.) It is 
frequently mentioned in the wars of 
the Maccabees; and on one occasion, 
when its inhabitants had thrown 200 
Jews into the sea, Judas in revenge 
surprised and burned the Syrian fleet 
that lay beforeit. During the Roman 
_wars Joppa was burned by Cestius, 
and upwards of 8000 of its inhabitants 
butchered. It was made the seat of 
a bishop in the time of Constantine, 
and retained the honour till its con- 
quest by the Saracens in 636. It was 
an important post during the cru- 
sades; but from that time till the 
close of the past centy. its history is 
obscure and uninteresting ; then, how- 
e* or, its name rung throughout Europe 
and Asia, as the scene of one of the 
bloodiest tragedies on record. 

On the 4th of March 1799 Yafa was 
invested by the French under Napoleon. 
In two days a breach was made by the 
cannon and declared practicable. The 
town was carried by storm, and de- 
livered over to all the horrors of war, 
which never appeared in a form 
more frightful. During this scene of 
slaughter a large part of the garrison, 
consisting chiefly of Albanians, took 
refuge in some old khans, and called 
out from the windows that they would 
lay down their arms provided their 
lives were spared ; but otherwise they 
would fight to the last extremity. 
Two officers, Eugeng Beauharnais 
and Crosier, Napoleon's own aides- 
dic-camp, agreed to the proposal, and 
brought them out disarmed in two 
bodies, one consisting of 2500 men, 
and the other of 1500. On reaching the 
hhead-quarters Napoleon received them 
with a stern demeanour, and expressed 


Route 18.—Joppa. 


" 289 


was already pictured in every face, for 
the relentless frown of the general, 
and the gloomy whispers of the officers, 
could not be mistaken. But no cry was 
uttered, no semblance of cowardice 
exhibited. With the calm resignation 
characteristic of the Muslem spirit and 
faith they yielded to their fate. Bread 
and water were served out to them 
while a council of war was sum- 
moned to deliberate. For two days 
the terrible question of life or death was 
debated. Justice, common humanity, 


were not without their advocates; but . 


savage barbarity, under the name of 
political necessity, prevailed. The 
committee to whom the matter was 
referred «unanimously reported that 
they should be put to death, and 
Napoleon immediately signed the fatal 
order |! 

On the 10th of March the fearful 
tragedy was brought toaclose. The 
whole of the prisoners were marched 
down to the sand-hiJJs on the coast, 
firmly fettered; and there they were 
ranged in small squares for execution. 
The French soldiers were drawn up 
in front with a full supply of ammuni- 
tion. A few minutes were allowed the 
victims to prepare for death. In the 
stagnant pools among which they 
were placed they performed their ab- 
lutions according to the rules of their 
faith, and then uttered a few words 
of prayer. Taking each other’s hands, 
after having placed them on their 
hearts and on their lips, they gave and 
received an eternal adieu. They made 
a last appeal—not to the humanity of 
Frenchmen, for that they saw would 
be useless, but to the capitulation by 
which their lives had been guaranteed. 
The only answer they heard was the 
command for the soldiers to fire. 
Volley after volley was poured in upon 
them. For hours together nothing 
was heard but the rattle of musketry 
and the shrieks of the wounded and 


his highest indignation against his;dying. One young man burst his 
aides-de-camp for attempting to en- | bonds, threw himself among the horses 
cumber him with such a body of | of the French officers, and, embracing 
prisoners in the famishing condition | their knees, passionately implored 
of his army. The prisoners weremade|them to spare his life. No wild 
to sit down in front of the tents, their | Bedawy of the desert could have re- 
hands tied behind their backs. Despair | sisted such an appeal; yet Frenchmen 
0 


[Syria and Palestine. } 


290 Route 18.—Joppa. Sect. IIT. 


sternly refused, and he was bayoneted 
at their feet. An old chief slightly 
wounded had strength enough left to 
hollow out with his own hands a rude 
grave in the soft sand; and there, 
while yet alive, he was interred by his 
followera—themselves sinking into the 
arms of death. After the massacre 
had lasted some time, the horrors that 
surrounded them shook the hearts of 


many, especially the younger part. 
Several broke their bonds, deched int 
the sea, and swam to a ridge of rocks 
beyond the reach of shot. The troops 
made signs to them of e; and 
when they came back, murdered them! 


Four thousand human beings were | 


thus butchered ; but the vengeance of 


Heaven followed their murderer to the | 


rocks of St. Helena. 


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